1993-1997 Ford Ranger Front Wheel Bearings & Brakes Pt2
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- 1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 (1993-1997)
(Some parts are the same for pre 93 models)
In this video I release a seized caliper slide pin,
install new wheel bearings and new hub/rotors,
then re-install the spindle lock nuts, caliper brackets,
calipers, and front wheels.
I have divided all of the work into 3 videos:
Front Wheel Bearings & Brakes Pt 1
• 1993-1997 Ford Ranger ...
= Removal of: front wheels, calipers, caliper brackets,
spindle nuts, hub/rotor, and wheel bearings
Front Spindle Bearing Replacement
• 1993-1997 Ford Ranger ...
= Removal and Installation of: front spindles,
axle shafts, spindle bearings, spindle seals, and
spindle slingers
Front Wheel Bearings & Brakes Pt 2
• 1993-1997 Ford Ranger ...
= Releasing a caliper slide pin
Installation of: wheel bearings, hub/rotor,
spindle nuts, caliper brackets, calipers, and front wheels
I'm a back yard mechanic and I've worked in a shop for a good while. And I have to say your really good with your information. I was just strolling through vids because i like to see how other people work so that way it helps me to do my job better. You took your and you put a little love into her. Good job bro. Thanks for the info there's little things in there that I've never noticed before.
Thank you for the compliments!
It's great to know that my videos can help so many people even people who have a lot more experience than me!
When using the adjustable wrenches and tightening the nut to pull the caliper slider pins out sometimes another helpful tip is to tap with a light/small hammer all around the "sleeve" in the caliper bracket that the pin slides into after each turn of the bolt while tightening. An old timer taught me that trick and quite often it will help. Great videos by the way. Very helpful when I did my 93 Ranger
todd munn I'm glad the video was useful! I agree, the old timers know what they're doing. Thanks for the tip.
Take that bearing race that you didn't need and use that, instead of the brass punch, to tap the wheel seal in all the way once you have it started. Make sure the fatter side is face down against the seal. Put a small block of wood on top of the bearing race (block must be larger than the race) and hit it firmly with a hammer. The seal seats in less than 3 hits. Works like a dream, and is much quicker than the brass punch.
Thanks Reeron69. I did that for other seals before but I never trusted myself with driving it in straight with only a couple hits. I'm always scared it'll start to go a little crooked part way through and I won't notice. I guess I need to trust myself a little more!
Thanks for the vid i just did mine on a 91 ranger 4 x 4
You're welcome.
Great job!
hugo Loya did you have automatic locking hubs?
the first tightening of the inner nut to 35# is to seat the bearing. then back off and retighten to thumb tight.
+danny117hd Thanks!
danny117hd will this work on a 92 ranger with automatic hubs.. if so do I only torque the outer nut? back off then thumb tight?
IDK. Probably similar procedure.
Great video, very helpfull!!!
5:18; front ABS was an option, rear ABS (RABS) was standard but 4 wheel abs was an option on XLT and Splash models, standard on STX.
Thanks a lot for the video, really really helpfull
+Matias Fernandes
Thanks for the info Matias! You're welcome for the video, I'm glad you liked it.
Stubborn wheel bearing seal, man oh man that would drive me crazy
Yup, sometimes it's the simple things that turn out to be more time consuming than the main task!
BMPWR
So I did my radius rod bushings and it was interesting to say the least. I should have videod it but no time. I had to cut off the 2 main rivots on both sides and pry the r.r. brackets off that connect in the middle like a crossmember. My drivers side bracket was beaten to shit and I had to replace it. I had to block up under the front diff at the drive shaft universal so the diff didnt twist away and drop the radius rods down too far so I couldnt replace the bracket with the bushings. I punched out the rivots and got me some grade 8 bolts to mount bracket back on. This is the way to go, otherwise there is a massive, time consuming job of basically ripping the entire front suspension with springs and shocks and and and. So there you go. I have to replace my crapped springs now, hahaha.
ChiefJustice Middleton Thanks for the info! It sounds like it was a pain but that's great that you got it done!
just checking will this work for a 92 4x4 with automatic locking hubs?
Hi Mark,
Well I have never worked on auto lock hubs, but I believe they need a different locking hub tool to remove the special nut that they use.
This web page might give you some helpful info: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.shtml
At least they show some of the parts of the auto locking hubs.
Are all four front wheel bearings the same size? I am trying to order all timken instead of the junk national ones that NAPA supplies but i cannot find the outer bearing part number online anywhere, unless they are all SET37 by timken.?
Hi Hollywood307,
Yup, all of the front wheel bearing and race sets are the same - Timken Set37. The inner and outer wheel bearing and race are the exact same. You might also want to replace the hub/wheel seal at the same time as doing the bearings. You only need one Timken 4250 seal for each side of the truck.
Awesome, that is great thank you. Yeah i have the seals ordered thanks to the part number being shown in the video. So the 4250 seal only seals the outer bearing, and the inner bearing is sealed by the thicker rubber boot seal with the spindle kit correct?
Hollywood307
You're welcome.
The 4250 seals the inner wheel bearing to the spindle. The outer wheel bearing has no seal except the locking hub o-ring that goes between the hub and the hub locker.
The thick rubber boot type seal goes behind the spindle (you need to remove the spindle from the truck to do this) and seals between the axle shaft and the spindle.
If you only plan to do the wheel bearings you don't need the spindle bearing seals or spindle bearings.
Doing the spindle bearings will take as much work or more than doing the wheel bearings. The spindles can be a real pain to remove. I replaced everything because I didn't need the truck for a couple days.
Ok great, that makes better sense. I am just going to replace all of the components, i have the time and a back-up vehicle so i am not worried about the time-frame. Just needed to make sure i got ALL of the correct parts ordered and now i do. Hey thank you again, i appreciate it. Was a big help!
Hollywood307
It's great to get it all done at once.
I hope it goes smoothly!
your conversion from 35 ft/lbs to 6 Nm at time 12:30 is incorrect. 35 ft lbs is 47.4536 Nm
Thanks for noticing that!
any clue as to where i can get the axle spacers?
Hi Brett,
It's been awhile since I did this job, could you explain where the axle spacers are located? I don't remember where there were any axle spacers.
Right infront of the lock nuts and behind the c clip one metal one plastic one splined.
Ah yes! Now I remember.
I searched a couple forums and found these pages:
www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276306
www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=236841&page=2
www.amazon.com/dp/B000O0DDNW?tag=viglink20409-20
It sounds like some Ford dealers have them and some don't. But someone on one of the forums did buy a kit from Amazon and he said it had all three washers in it: Ford F57Z-3B458-A
I'm not certain that these are the correct spacers needed, but other people said they were. You might be able to find the kit on ebay also.
thanks found the same part # for them you have been a great help. next week rear axle bearing wish me luck.
No problem! Good luck on the fixes!