I have the same hitch, but you forgot to demonstrate one of its best features. The Stow. Flip it down and around to the front of the bracket to avoid bruising shins. Great hitch indeed. As far as the forklift, adding the ball is very handy but you might fix the brakes before trying to load the log splitter on the tow trailer.
Lol Cody us east coast guys have been using them thar multi-hitches for years now . I just caint figger out this darn tube thang ... 🤠 God Bless You ALL in Jesus Name Amen
I’m 14 years old and only live with my mom. I just got my first vise and building up my tool collection, thank you for your videos and the knowledge that you have passed on.
I’m 16 and I’ve learned- when building your tool supply, don’t only buy quality tools from good brands, but start out with decent tools and work your way up as you go. I started with a tiny little 10 ounce hammer and I’ve worked my way up to a collection of hammers for various uses ranging from a general purpose hammer to a framing hammer, even a 28oz estwing for just abusing. You will occasionally find quality used tools for sale near you and when you do, jump on that deal because nothing is better than a perfectly worn in tool straight from the beginning
Same here already got a decently sized wood shop and my dad already relies on me to fix his chainsaw and do most of the building around my house and I’m only 15
They make a fork ball attachment. We had one at my old work. You slide it over both forks and it has a chain to attach to the mast. With both forks you can hold more weight without bending the forks.
The Proper Way - “So much better, so much safer than what we had before”. Only until you bend that blade tip or rack the carriage.from eccentric loading. Even load distribution is typically “better and safer”, be careful with that rig.
I suppose that he could drill a corresponding hole in the other tine and bolt a heavy duty piece of steel onto the forks that has the hitch attached in the middle.
@@nellayema2455 or just build a stand alone hitch out of 2x4 tubing with a chain that wraps around the back to keep it from slipping off the end of the forks..
Those are best. Especially if you have more than one forklift. Plus you dont have to spend much time putting the ball on or taking it off. It takes 5 seconds to slide on the hitch.
I have used the Milwaukee hole hawgs for years on jobs drilling holes in massive I-beams. Mag drills are God sends for drilling lots of holes in steel.
I got that beat. The other day a guy in a white Ford truck had a boat with no brake lights on the trailer. I passed him. ( 2 lane each way road ) About 2 minutes later the white Ford pulled up beside me at a red light. I thought I'd be nice so I put down my window and told him.. Hey, you don't have any brake lights on your trailer. To that he replied... I don't have a trailer. I looked behind him and about died... Wrong white Ford truck. The other guy must have turned off somewhere 😜🤪🤔
So, when working around the shop in the Army, especially overseas, we used a forklift to move most trailers in and out, rather than trying to use the truck, because it was faster and easier. What they had done was taken two pieces of rectangular tubing and welded them together (close and side by side, so that the forks had to be pushed close together) and mounted a pintle out the front of it. The bracket was then chained to the fork assembly and off they went. A solution for those who can't drill their forks, or for the more industrious. Works great, though I think a ratcheting binder would keep it a little more secure than just two chains.
Worth considering that since the hitch was already out of the vehicle because it had been removed, it doesn’t make much sense to put it back in considering that there is a vise in the shop.
"Pro Tip" is absolutely being thrown around kind of loosely here obviously. Instead of blowing a hole in a fork build a frame you can pull up to and easily run both forks into the pockets you have welded utilizing the same spacing you most use your forks. In the center of this framework mount your hitch receiver. (Pro tip, when welding up your frame work remember to jump up in the seat and check down at visibility, it's possible to make this apparatus in a forks tilted up slightly, ball hitch level configuration that makes coming in low under a trailer tung still highly visible). I have two of these one with a reciever and one with a 5th wheel for 48' box Van's I keep an air bubble with glad hand and ball valve installed on the hose for releasing air brakes. I "park" or leave these hitch units on stands I built outside and out of the way in an area i have access to no matter the weather. When I need them I check the position of my forks before I jump on the tractor.
Be aware always use cutting fluid when drilling metal, to extend the life of your bits! Also to drill into metal the bigger the hole the slower you drill(cut) to keep from burning up your bits! Fabrication work for 43 plus years!
@@t_4178 Been using one for forty years, cut over 800 holes at 25 mm with cutting fluid. Don't get that many without it. That's a physical experiment, not guess work. Do you think they put that bottle on for decoration. No its for cutting fluid. To lubricate and cool the cutting head. They would not put it on if they didnt want you to use it. Read any manual you like...NONE say run it dry.
Hi Cody. I have a Rotobor Mag drill made in England. The trick is to give the cutter a good few drips of oil when drilling. Regarding safety, when drilling make sure u have a wood stick in hand then ad the swarf reaches around inch n 1/2 just use that stick and touch the swarf to break up. I have the Jancey Mag drill which is the pre Fein owned Jancey drill made in Davenport Iowa.
you can also make 2 U shaped sleeves, and on one end weld a bar across the end. you'll have to slide them in a 45 degree angle over the fork, but that little plate on the back prevents the sleeve from sliding off the fork when pulling
Just started watching your video, I live in Idaho and worked for a company that drilled holds in the forks of a grade all OSHA made them put new fork on it said it compromised the forks, so in Idaho it's a no no. We didn't have a ball we used the holes for rigging, but OSHA wouldn't go for it.
Where I work we had the welder make a piece that slides over the fork with pinnal ball hitch on the end. It had a chain and binder that connects it to the forklift. It worked well. Infact the heavy equipment mechanic's started using it for stuff way heavier than then it was intended for.
9:00 Lithium grease works great as a high-torque thread lubricant as well, and it's something you'll generally have a tub of sitting around the shop. We used to double-nut rods of 1" all-thread on either side of a plate of iron to move boulders, and they'd have to be cut off since they'd almost weld together i the process of pulling the rocks. We started putting white lithium bearing grease on the threads before torquing the nuts down, and they'd actually screw right off then
I grew up on a farm. We always weld the ball to the top center of the bucket / forks. Located there you never need to remove it whereas on the fork you need to take it off every time you want to use it. The other option is to make a receiver that slides over the end of the fork and chains around the back and back to the receiver again like I use with a loader at work. Where I live the actual forks need to be certified to be able to use them legally, any holes will prevent a certification but welding to the bracket well above the forks or sliding something over it and securing it with a chain is completely legal and makes it a lot faster.
Love the video! Im a welder, and about a month ago someone was using a mag drill about that size to drill a hole. A shaving caught his glove, and it ended up taking two of his fingers, all of the skin off of his hand, and a strip of his arm off with it. NEVER EVER wear gloves or long sleves when using one of these, similar to a lathe.
Were those ANSI cut rated gloves? I am going to assume no. Your solutions to someone who wasn't following appropriate safety practices or appropriate PPE is to wear even less PPE??? That makes zero sense. 1) His hands shouldn't have been near the shavings to begin with, jut like you shouldn't put your hands near a circular saw blade. 2) Gloves routinely prevent other injuries when carrying heavy, hard, or sharp objects.
@@maximusmagni1 Any kind of fabric should be kept away from rotating tools. It's a pretty basic concept. I'd rather get get than torn or ripped, cause you can quickly pull away from a cutting edge, but not if it gets hold of you.
The Companies that makes the chemicals in cans with applicators don't intend for you to use the entire jar. The idea is that any contaminants you bring back on the brush sink to the bottom, and you don't pick them up again. Got that one explained to us at a Henkel training.
I work in a heavy equipment yard and so we often have to move large trailer around so instead of having a hole in a fork we made I kind of fork attachment with a 2inch receiver on the end that we just keep a pineal on and there’s a 3/8 chain with a grab hook on each end the you chain around the cage of the fork lift and it works great, just figured I’d throw that out there for ideas for others
I would suggest drilling the hole closer to the end of the fork for a couple of reasons. 1. When you start using shackles for lifting loads 2. Some heavier trailers with 6” or 8” channels will interfere if you have to much stick out on the fork. Speaking from experience.
At work, we use 1 inch for the big bolts up to 80mm socket size. Were handeling class 2 and 3 fuels, so every tool need to be in anti spark alloy (brass, beryllium-copper, aluminium, lead)
That little plastic tank on the top of your mag drill is for lubrication of the cutting drill . Fill it with cutting fluid and it will automatically feed cutting fluid through the center of your cutting drill . The instructions are in the manual that came with the drill . Lubricate those cutting bits , they are not cheap .
A huge testimony to your channel and subs here. Gabe Colon leaves a comment and just look at the folks trying to lift this young man up and help. If that does not show the thumbs down people who daily leaves those , well I guess nothing will ! I hope a gentleman close to Gabe will intervene and show this young man the hands on lessons which will forge him into a good man. This was such a great lift to my spirit to see ! Have a great day everyone and take the time to find a Gabe in your area to help along !
I developed your hitch system when I worked at Wing Enterprises 20+ years ago, no royalties for me but a good system. I originally named it Quick-draw.
My $0.02 worth; in order to stop the build-up of the swarf (the metal shavings, chips et al), simply retract/return the drill back up and down momentarily to allow the metal shaving to 'break' and not be one continuous Scourer of Death. Retract/return as many times as those shavings get to an unsafe length. An added bonus is that you clear the hole and make it easier for the cutter to do its work.
Another pro tip! Mount that ball closer to the tip of the fork, otherwise if your coupler is on 3x3, 4x4 or greater steel, it'll hit the tip of the fork when turning. I need one of those drills!
I use a piece of rectangular tubing, I Mount the ball on the tubing, slip the tub over the lift arm it has hocks any whear alone the length of the tubing that's handy to reach secure it with a ratchet strap or chain binder depending upon how big the load. Now you don't need any tools to remove or install the ball. I built some using a pin to hold the tubing in place but sometimes drilling is not allowed.
I work as a GC and with all our crews have a piece of rectangular tubing large enough for the fork to slide in. Then a ball of choice welded to the top, then lastly, a piece of chain with a hook on it welded to the back of the tubing. Simply slide it on the fork, hook it to the mast of the forklift/skid steer use away.
When drilling apply pressure for a secant hen let it cut the shavings into short pieces for a secant then pressure for a secant some CNC machines are programed to "woodpecker"drill in short bursts.
magic drills are a godsend. I work in a shop building tanks we use a mag drill to drill holes of any size under 2 inch. alot easier to do then blow through 1 1/2 thick shells with a oxymoron touch. we have to do it on bigger nozzle holes but requires alot of grinding to get the hole up to weld quality. now super inportant is when the shell is round you have to make sure it's lever and the shell is lever then shim it in place. get a bottle with small hole in lid to spray cutting oil into the hole. also always turn off drill if you have to get shavings out of the way. I grabbed a handful of the shavings a long one caught the bit and sliced my glove into my finger. 6 stitches. also never force the drill as magnet can let go then it spins around and that is also scary. be safe and that tool is something that can do amazing things.
That's pretty fast for drilling through a forklift fork. I would suggest using flood style coolant for that instead of that gel. It will increase the life of the tool. There is also an adapter for your mag drill to run regular Jacob's style chucks for smaller holes and tapping .
I tow 2 different boats. Years ago one had a 1 7/8" coupler and the other a 2" coupler. When it came time to replace the coupler on the 1 7/8", I switched to a 2" coupler. Greatly simplified things and I always look to do this.
Dad was a diesel mechanic for MANY years and so things like 3/4 inch drives are pretty common for me. I've only once or twice seen him break out one inch drive sockets and tools but I gotta tell you, they're some of the most monstrous ratchets (if you can even call them that) I've ever seen. imagine a hole for a socket bigger than your thumb maybe even both of them depending on the size of your hands. It's one of those cases of "there's no way in hell this WON'T turn. They're honestly some of the weirdest and simultaneously coolest tools I've ever seen
When I was in my early 20's I worked at a foundry here in Sweden and we used these kinds of drills to get rods for testing the strength of the material, I got such a nostalgia rush from watching this.
pro tip from an east coast guy weld up a bracket that'll slip on to your forks and clamp it down with 2 bolts. then put a receiver hitch in the middle and your ball is centered between both forks. I can have mine on and off again by the time you bolt yours into your fork.
I used to buy the really nice adjustable hitches. Both I had were over 200 bucks. But I’ve gone back to the simple 40 dollar hitches. Both adjustable hitches got stolen and both had lockable pins. After the second one I have up on the whole idea of having one hitch for anything.... 400 bucks buys a lifetime of the cheaper hitches 😂
I have a tube with 2 different ball sizes on one end and a hole drilled through the other end. When I need to move a trailer with my tractor I just slide the tube over the hitch and put a pin through the hole to hold it on instead of screwing a ball on all the time. I saw that in a farming magazine when I was a kid and remembered it 40 years later. "Now if a could only remember why I just walked into my office for."
@@crum167 I agree about a magdrill's usefulness. When you need a magdrill, you NEED a magdrill. But they are expensive and unless you have a recurring need for one you are better off renting one
My father made a little hitch for the edge of a bucket on a skid steer but he also made it for pallet forks/any forks. He had a chain hook on the end so you could chain it to the top of the bucket or the back of the forks.
I once heard about someone working on a state bridge crew. When he was told to pick up the mag drill, which was upside down on a bridge beam, when the shift was over, he unplugged it without securing it first. As far as I know it's still in the river.
Two things, first... I think you should always remind us to hit the thumbs up button. I don't always remember but when you remind me I always do it. Secondly..... I'm not the most religious person but I really like that you ask for prayers and that you say that you pray for us. It really comes off genuine and even a not so religious guy like me takes a minute for you and your family.
I used a tow ball that a bolt threads into. Cut a square hole in the fork and used a carriage bolt . That way, the bottom of the fork is flat , the threads are protected, and it's tightened/removed from the top.
How so? Just curious! The best 'stock' mag drill I've ever used was a BDS maschinen, followed by an 'eibenstock-positron' (which I'd never heard of), and then all the Chinese clones. As with most other power-tools, manufacturers intentionally cripple everything but the highest end model just so they can address different market 'segments'. Single speed, non-reversible, just enough clearance to mount the maximum size drill bit "specified". Like the machines would explode if you used a 52mm bit instead of the maximum 50mm specified. So I got tired and figured out how to mod the cheaper units instead. I own two identical Chinese mag drills, electrically modded to run 330v DC 😱, infinitely variable speed, through-hole coolant, higher leverage (longer) handles, connecting rod for larger drill bits, so on. I'm yet to use a functionally equivalent stock mag-drill at a decent price point.
Whats done is done but at work we made up a box section with a tow bar on the end that slides over the tine and locks in with a pin behind the forks, it means that it can slide on and off when we need it and can be used on other machines also means you don't have to drill into your forks. If you want a sketch of it i can send it in an email :)
that Mag drill is easy to move around. I had to do earthquake retro fit on a large steel structure and had to use a come-a-long to lift the BIG BUX and drill horizontal holes.
i know that this is an old video, but they do make attachments that have a hitch ball on them. you just drive the forks into the pockets and then secure the attachment to the backstop rack then it is on to business. If you are a welder you can make one yourself out of rectangle tube steel or c channel and strap pieces, but you have to do some math to make sure that everything will be solid enough to handle the intended loads.
Seems like the squealing from the bit is being caused by such a large bit turning too fast and is burning up the bit. If that thing has a speed setting I'd try slowing it down.
So on an annual cutter I.E. slugger bit for most, the way they are sharpened each tooth is actual not exactly the same height its minimal talking tenths but when you dont have enough pressure to start the chip load in the cut. It runs on just one tooth causing the chatter. When you give it feed pressure you engage all the teeth in the cut evening out the load on the cutter and taking out the vibration resonance or the ringing and chatter that you hear.
with the left side you are right... most cars have driver on left side.. so you see more things on the left... i ride mainly 16ton forklift and its seat is off centered for some reason to the left... but even smaller ones are off center to the left
Why didnt you fashion a piece to slide the forks into? At an old job they used very thick rectangular pieces and welded the ball onto a piece of metal connecting the 2. So instead of having to attach a ball to the tractor or forklift they simply slid the forks into the metal and basically had a centered ball trailer hitch. Worked amazingly
@wranglerstar - Little tip I've figured out. When removing a hitch ball you can just clamp the nut into the vice, then use the recever like a wrench to losen the nut. Usually it comes right off and you don't need to head to the toolbox.
I have a 1 inch impact and like 3 sockets for it. My uncle bought it form a dude who worked in the shop with him. And He was going to sell it to someone he knew who needed one. We have never used it I just now got it to where it would hook up to the air tank. But that thing is a monster. It’s a wrist breaker
One of the most underrated tools for sure. I've used them on titanium pipe and other non-ferrous material by using steel plate clamped in place with quality chain grips. On large sites make sure you tag the extension cord with "Mag Drill in Use" just incase some skeezbag decides unplugging an unknown cord for a minute is no big deal.
As someone who has driven forklifts and telehandlers for 30 plus years,I would not drill the forks as I have seen too many of them bend without drilling by upto 30 degrees at around the point you are drilling it.I would buy(around £300)or hire a purpose built attachment.Otherwise make one up basically one fork extension cut short and a couple of threaded bolts and attach the towball.
we use a welded sleeve with the ball attached welded to it, that goes over the skid tip, still with a hole in the forks and a hole in the sleeve, right the way through and a locking pin, so theres no bolting involved to fit it and it comes off real quick.
Doesn't work so well on the plastic cans of anti-seize. I just put the old one aside for a couple of months until I've used an inch or so of the new container, then use a tongue depressor and scoop the residue from the old one into the new container.
Bolt locks are amazing! I have a hitch pin lock, a couple pad locks, and my in-bed toolbox has a Bolt lock as well. It's awesome. For non truck related padlocks, I got some Abus locks with Schlage cores. I can key them alike to my house key so I only have to carry that one key to get into sheds/gates/whatever.
Thanks for a great channel. When you use the mag drill upside down on a girder, Always tie it on. All it takes is to blow a breaker or accidentally unplug and the drill will drop like a lead balloon.
Same thing turning a steering wheel to the left, I have heard before that it has something to do with the location of your heart being slightly to the left of your torso!
Those are good hitches for highway use, but for gravel/off road use they get bound up with mud and dirt, had many the pins got stuck in and had to press out , also had the pins bend under a heavy load , but haven't had a problem with the one on my highway rig .
I wonder how much of the "looking to the left" thing is conditioning over instinctual. When you drive a car, you are on the left and need to look out the left side of the car. I wonder if you lived in a country where you drive on the right side if you tend to favor the right over the left.
Not sure about the looking side of things, I'd prefer to look out on the right but that could be just me, not because we drive on the rhs. The turning left on a bike preference is the same though.
Hi Cody, check out Gen-Y hitches, they make an adjustable hitch that has torsion suspension built in. We have a equipment rental business and we are always delivering equipment with different trailers and the Gen-Y Boss has been a game changer, better ride and better fuel mileage. They have an incredible assortment of hitches and other accessories.
You mentioned taking the mag lock drill and hanging it upside down or to the side of a beam; always tie it off to the structure in case power loss/breaker trip. I learn the hard way.
@Wanglerstar when using annular cutters for a mag base drill, get yourself some water soluble oil (the kind used on lathe's and milling machines), I see alot of people using cutting oil for these as lubricant, but really it's not lube the cutters need, it's heat dissipation, heat kills the cutters very quickly, even just plain water will prolong the cutter life more than cutting oil will.
Cutting oil works great, I have a bottle of good quality cutting oil i use with my mag drill and the difference it makes vs if I don't use it is significant. Mag drills 99% of the time are stop go stop go, and get time to cool between hole setups with oil, Ive never over heated my bits when using oil, the oil also reduces heat build up to begin with the lubrication reduce friction and reduce tool pressure needed to cut a chip. The occasional time when I didn't use oil ran out and had 1 or 2 left, the force needed to cut goes up and its harder to get a chip forming, that's when you can really damage your bits, and can get overheating. I keep a rag there when im done to wipe the oil and chips off the steel and cutter works great. That's my experience anyway I also use paste if I'm cutting vertically sometimes, but a good quality cutting oil is what ive found to be the best for my applications, for lathes and mills tool engagement is generally longer and there's an element of flushing required too they also have a pump so they can get greater volume of fluid on target. Water based solution suits that overall system. For mag drilling in my experience and my use cases I find oil to be a better option all round. I'm sure water based suits other people and there work applications better.
I think that driving on the right means I can see farther through left hand turns/curves. I can see the whole line of the curve, the apex, and the exit. With more confidence in the future curve line I am following, I can smoothly apply the brakes and throttle, predicting my trail braking and roll on. That confidence lets me take left curves faster and with therefore more lean.
Fun fact( if you ride bikes you might know this) if you stand on a mountain bike, or what ever pedal power bike, and you are more comfortable riding right foot forward, you are usually more comfortable turning to the left, and if your left foot forward, you are usually more comfortable turning to the right. Regular or goofy footed are the terms.
I'm 15 and live on a farm in Australia and i just love watching all of wranglerstars videos and implementing his ideas and knowledge on my own farm. love what you're doing Cody. if you see this i just want to say you have genuinely made my life better. God bless all.
Hey. I make pac stoves. I have two pro tips to share. Used motor oil goes on most things i put on the drill press or cut off saw. My drill bits last much longer, ect. I also polish my leather danner boots with used motor oil. Those boots are more than 20 years old atm.
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I have commented. :)
You should maybe remove your watch before working with any tool which generates a strong magnetic field.
Please, don't ask me how I know.
$320. Nice but.....
I have the same hitch, but you forgot to demonstrate one of its best features. The Stow. Flip it down and around to the front of the bracket to avoid bruising shins. Great hitch indeed.
As far as the forklift, adding the ball is very handy but you might fix the brakes before trying to load the log splitter on the tow trailer.
Lol Cody us east coast guys have been using them thar multi-hitches for years now . I just caint figger out this darn tube thang ... 🤠
God Bless You ALL in Jesus Name Amen
I’m 14 years old and only live with my mom. I just got my first vise and building up my tool collection, thank you for your videos and the knowledge that you have passed on.
1 minute ago
That is awesome!
I’m 16 and I’ve learned- when building your tool supply, don’t only buy quality tools from good brands, but start out with decent tools and work your way up as you go. I started with a tiny little 10 ounce hammer and I’ve worked my way up to a collection of hammers for various uses ranging from a general purpose hammer to a framing hammer, even a 28oz estwing for just abusing. You will occasionally find quality used tools for sale near you and when you do, jump on that deal because nothing is better than a perfectly worn in tool straight from the beginning
@@kiernanb9445 good advice. I’m 65. That how I’ve done it my whole life. Still accumulating.
Same here already got a decently sized wood shop and my dad already relies on me to fix his chainsaw and do most of the building around my house and I’m only 15
You should use cutting fluid to keep the annular cutters cool and lubricated, they will last alot longer
They make a fork ball attachment. We had one at my old work. You slide it over both forks and it has a chain to attach to the mast. With both forks you can hold more weight without bending the forks.
yep that's the way we east coasters do it
The Proper Way - “So much better, so much safer than what we had before”.
Only until you bend that blade tip or rack the carriage.from eccentric loading.
Even load distribution is typically “better and safer”, be careful with that rig.
I suppose that he could drill a corresponding hole in the other tine and bolt a heavy duty piece of steel onto the forks that has the hitch attached in the middle.
@@nellayema2455 or just build a stand alone hitch out of 2x4 tubing with a chain that wraps around the back to keep it from slipping off the end of the forks..
Those are best. Especially if you have more than one forklift. Plus you dont have to spend much time putting the ball on or taking it off. It takes 5 seconds to slide on the hitch.
I have used the Milwaukee hole hawgs for years on jobs drilling holes in massive I-beams. Mag drills are God sends for drilling lots of holes in steel.
Forgetting what "Forks" are called on a "Forklift" was priceless. Now I don't feel so bad when I forget a word.
I got that beat.
The other day a guy in a white Ford truck had a boat with no brake lights on the trailer.
I passed him. ( 2 lane each way road )
About 2 minutes later the white Ford pulled up beside me at a red light. I thought I'd be nice so I put down my window and told him..
Hey, you don't have any brake lights on your trailer. To that he replied...
I don't have a trailer. I looked behind him and about died...
Wrong white Ford truck. The other guy must have turned off somewhere
😜🤪🤔
I believe he was looking for the word tine.
Definitely might have came down here to say the same thing.. I’m a forklift operator;)
Cody is a genius troll
Truck blades
So, when working around the shop in the Army, especially overseas, we used a forklift to move most trailers in and out, rather than trying to use the truck, because it was faster and easier. What they had done was taken two pieces of rectangular tubing and welded them together (close and side by side, so that the forks had to be pushed close together) and mounted a pintle out the front of it. The bracket was then chained to the fork assembly and off they went. A solution for those who can't drill their forks, or for the more industrious. Works great, though I think a ratcheting binder would keep it a little more secure than just two chains.
We use something like that at my work. It’s better than weakening a fork by drilling a hole 🕳 in it.
There are very few problems that can't be solved by a couple of grunts with a welder, some scrap metal, and minimal supervision.
I was going to suggest this as well. Easier on/ off. Not weakening the fork. Weight on two forks instead of one.
we made the same thing on our base to move boat trailers around when they're out of the water for maintenance
When removing the ball from your hitch, just leave the hitch in the receiver on your vehicle. No vice needed!
Bonus points if you turn it sideways so you can squat the wrench and really get some torque!
Harder to film for RUclips though 😬
Good call, but it makes better TV with the bench as a back drop...lol
Better is turning it 90 degrees to pull for better torque
Worth considering that since the hitch was already out of the vehicle because it had been removed, it doesn’t make much sense to put it back in considering that there is a vise in the shop.
"Pro Tip" is absolutely being thrown around kind of loosely here obviously. Instead of blowing a hole in a fork build a frame you can pull up to and easily run both forks into the pockets you have welded utilizing the same spacing you most use your forks. In the center of this framework mount your hitch receiver. (Pro tip, when welding up your frame work remember to jump up in the seat and check down at visibility, it's possible to make this apparatus in a forks tilted up slightly, ball hitch level configuration that makes coming in low under a trailer tung still highly visible). I have two of these one with a reciever and one with a 5th wheel for 48' box Van's I keep an air bubble with glad hand and ball valve installed on the hose for releasing air brakes. I "park" or leave these hitch units on stands I built outside and out of the way in an area i have access to no matter the weather. When I need them I check the position of my forks before I jump on the tractor.
Be aware always use cutting fluid when drilling metal, to extend the life of your bits! Also to drill into metal the bigger the hole the slower you drill(cut) to keep from burning up your bits! Fabrication work for 43 plus years!
I knew I wasn't the only one cringing !
@@PatriotPaulUSA Same, that small bottle attached to the drill must be there to just look pretty......lmao
@@andrewthomas3930 :D
second this :)
@@t_4178 Been using one for forty years, cut over 800 holes at 25 mm with cutting fluid. Don't get that many without it. That's a physical experiment, not guess work. Do you think they put that bottle on for decoration. No its for cutting fluid. To lubricate and cool the cutting head. They would not put it on if they didnt want you to use it. Read any manual you like...NONE say run it dry.
Hi Cody.
I have a Rotobor Mag drill made in England. The trick is to give the cutter a good few drips of oil when drilling. Regarding safety, when drilling make sure u have a wood stick in hand then ad the swarf reaches around inch n 1/2 just use that stick and touch the swarf to break up. I have the Jancey Mag drill which is the pre Fein owned Jancey drill made in Davenport Iowa.
On the forklift in our shop we put a hole in each fork and put a "hitch" across. This evenly distributes the load on both forks. No bent forks!
Absolutely. Never load tractor forks off balance. There are many tractors with bent loader arms because of this practice.
you can also make 2 U shaped sleeves, and on one end weld a bar across the end.
you'll have to slide them in a 45 degree angle over the fork, but that little plate on the back prevents the sleeve from sliding off the fork when pulling
Nothing worse than bent forks
@@terrykelly7042 Bent spoons are pretty rough, when eating soup.
one fork is usually always a little bent atleast on our equipment, i just put the hole in the one thats not bent maybe theyll even out someday :D
The idea of your grandad even knowing to write down the pad lock number to keep all the locks with one key was BRILLIANT and worth the video alone.
Just started watching your video, I live in Idaho and worked for a company that drilled holds in the forks of a grade all OSHA made them put new fork on it said it compromised the forks, so in Idaho it's a no no. We didn't have a ball we used the holes for rigging, but OSHA wouldn't go for it.
My first thoughts when hearing this as well. Can almost guarantee same thing with MSHA for mining operations too.
They key ring was invented so as to provide a way to loose all your keys at once.
Haha good joke
@@Ohio_cowboy what makes you think it was a joke? 😜
@@evetsegap Truth!
Where I work we had the welder make a piece that slides over the fork with pinnal ball hitch on the end. It had a chain and binder that connects it to the forklift. It worked well. Infact the heavy equipment mechanic's started using it for stuff way heavier than then it was intended for.
Got one at my work too. Looks manufactured though. Got a little sad for the forklift when I saw the mag drill get pulled out.
yes very very wise , im not a big fan of drill or cutting holes in the end of my forks , i use my forklift for way mote then pallets
9:00 Lithium grease works great as a high-torque thread lubricant as well, and it's something you'll generally have a tub of sitting around the shop. We used to double-nut rods of 1" all-thread on either side of a plate of iron to move boulders, and they'd have to be cut off since they'd almost weld together i the process of pulling the rocks. We started putting white lithium bearing grease on the threads before torquing the nuts down, and they'd actually screw right off then
It looks like that has an automatic oiler. Should help to keep your bits from dulling or burning up too quickly.
I grew up on a farm. We always weld the ball to the top center of the bucket / forks. Located there you never need to remove it whereas on the fork you need to take it off every time you want to use it. The other option is to make a receiver that slides over the end of the fork and chains around the back and back to the receiver again like I use with a loader at work. Where I live the actual forks need to be certified to be able to use them legally, any holes will prevent a certification but welding to the bracket well above the forks or sliding something over it and securing it with a chain is completely legal and makes it a lot faster.
As an amateur homeowner I did as was told and paused at that point liked and commented
Yeah he was really convincing on that one I did the same
What is the procedure for one to be promoted to a professional homeowner?
@@tubefluid don't know I'm a amateur 🤣🤣
@@marcross3197 /Facepalm!!
@@tubefluid You pay someone to mow your lawn.
Love the video! Im a welder, and about a month ago someone was using a mag drill about that size to drill a hole. A shaving caught his glove, and it ended up taking two of his fingers, all of the skin off of his hand, and a strip of his arm off with it. NEVER EVER wear gloves or long sleves when using one of these, similar to a lathe.
Gloves... recipe for disaster when around a Mag drill. Agree, thanks for posting this warning, its going to save people a lot of pain and grief.
@@Popomomox No protective glasses when the cuttings are as sharp as razor blades. What a jerk he is.
Were those ANSI cut rated gloves? I am going to assume no. Your solutions to someone who wasn't following appropriate safety practices or appropriate PPE is to wear even less PPE??? That makes zero sense.
1) His hands shouldn't have been near the shavings to begin with, jut like you shouldn't put your hands near a circular saw blade.
2) Gloves routinely prevent other injuries when carrying heavy, hard, or sharp objects.
@@maximusmagni1 Any kind of fabric should be kept away from rotating tools. It's a pretty basic concept. I'd rather get get than torn or ripped, cause you can quickly pull away from a cutting edge, but not if it gets hold of you.
The Companies that makes the chemicals in cans with applicators don't intend for you to use the entire jar. The idea is that any contaminants you bring back on the brush sink to the bottom, and you don't pick them up again.
Got that one explained to us at a Henkel training.
I work in a heavy equipment yard and so we often have to move large trailer around so instead of having a hole in a fork we made I kind of fork attachment with a 2inch receiver on the end that we just keep a pineal on and there’s a 3/8 chain with a grab hook on each end the you chain around the cage of the fork lift and it works great, just figured I’d throw that out there for ideas for others
I would suggest drilling the hole closer to the end of the fork for a couple of reasons. 1. When you start using shackles for lifting loads 2. Some heavier trailers with 6” or 8” channels will interfere if you have to much stick out on the fork. Speaking from experience.
my thoughts exactly.
At work, we use 1 inch for the big bolts up to 80mm socket size. Were handeling class 2 and 3 fuels, so every tool need to be in anti spark alloy (brass, beryllium-copper, aluminium, lead)
That little plastic tank on the top of your mag drill is for lubrication of the cutting drill . Fill it with cutting fluid and it will automatically feed cutting fluid through the center of your cutting drill . The instructions are in the manual that came with the drill . Lubricate those cutting bits , they are not cheap .
This guy magdrills.
Word
That tube he had is lube,
@@4468861989 True. But annular cutters are designed to work with a coolant flood.
@@jarphabib exactly!!!
A huge testimony to your channel and subs here. Gabe Colon leaves a comment and just look at the folks trying to lift this young man up and help. If that does not show the thumbs down people who daily leaves those , well I guess nothing will ! I hope a gentleman close to Gabe will intervene and show this young man the hands on lessons which will forge him into a good man. This was such a great lift to my spirit to see ! Have a great day everyone and take the time to find a Gabe in your area to help along !
I developed your hitch system when I worked at Wing Enterprises 20+ years ago, no royalties for me but a good system. I originally named it Quick-draw.
My $0.02 worth; in order to stop the build-up of the swarf (the metal shavings, chips et al), simply retract/return the drill back up and down momentarily to allow the metal shaving to 'break' and not be one continuous Scourer of Death. Retract/return as many times as those shavings get to an unsafe length. An added bonus is that you clear the hole and make it easier for the cutter to do its work.
The best thing about Annular Cutters (bits for the Magdrill) is that resharpening really extends the life of them.
Another pro tip! Mount that ball closer to the tip of the fork, otherwise if your coupler is on 3x3, 4x4 or greater steel, it'll hit the tip of the fork when turning. I need one of those drills!
Yes thought the same when he drilled without measuring from the tip of the fork.
I need to find some projects so I have a need for one of those drills 😂 That fuzzy plate cover must be a west coast thing
I use a piece of rectangular tubing, I Mount the ball on the tubing, slip the tub over the lift arm it has hocks any whear alone the length of the tubing that's handy to reach secure it with a ratchet strap or chain binder depending upon how big the load. Now you don't need any tools to remove or install the ball. I built some using a pin to hold the tubing in place but sometimes drilling is not allowed.
I'd love to see LockPickingLawyer take a look at that lock. He makes every lock look useless, but I'm sure it's still pretty good regardless.
another LPL fan thinking the same thing i was when I heard "theft proof" lmao
I work as a GC and with all our crews have a piece of rectangular tubing large enough for the fork to slide in. Then a ball of choice welded to the top, then lastly, a piece of chain with a hook on it welded to the back of the tubing.
Simply slide it on the fork, hook it to the mast of the forklift/skid steer use away.
Welcome back friends of the fizz: today we discuss the electromagnetic drill press
When drilling apply pressure for a secant hen let it cut the shavings into short pieces for a secant then pressure for a secant some CNC machines are programed to "woodpecker"drill in short bursts.
magic drills are a godsend. I work in a shop building tanks we use a mag drill to drill holes of any size under 2 inch. alot easier to do then blow through 1 1/2 thick shells with a oxymoron touch. we have to do it on bigger nozzle holes but requires alot of grinding to get the hole up to weld quality. now super inportant is when the shell is round you have to make sure it's lever and the shell is lever then shim it in place. get a bottle with small hole in lid to spray cutting oil into the hole. also always turn off drill if you have to get shavings out of the way. I grabbed a handful of the shavings a long one caught the bit and sliced my glove into my finger. 6 stitches. also never force the drill as magnet can let go then it spins around and that is also scary. be safe and that tool is something that can do amazing things.
That's pretty fast for drilling through a forklift fork. I would suggest using flood style coolant for that instead of that gel. It will increase the life of the tool.
There is also an adapter for your mag drill to run regular Jacob's style chucks for smaller holes and tapping .
I tow 2 different boats. Years ago one had a 1 7/8" coupler and the other a 2" coupler. When it came time to replace the coupler on the 1 7/8", I switched to a 2" coupler. Greatly simplified things and I always look to do this.
I could have used a toupee like yours yesterday. I got sunburn on my head while doing some outdoor chores.
Dad was a diesel mechanic for MANY years and so things like 3/4 inch drives are pretty common for me. I've only once or twice seen him break out one inch drive sockets and tools but I gotta tell you, they're some of the most monstrous ratchets (if you can even call them that) I've ever seen. imagine a hole for a socket bigger than your thumb maybe even both of them depending on the size of your hands. It's one of those cases of "there's no way in hell this WON'T turn. They're honestly some of the weirdest and simultaneously coolest tools I've ever seen
When I was in my early 20's I worked at a foundry here in Sweden and we used these kinds of drills to get rods for testing the strength of the material, I got such a nostalgia rush from watching this.
pro tip from an east coast guy
weld up a bracket that'll slip on to your forks and clamp it down with 2 bolts. then put a receiver hitch in the middle and your ball is centered between both forks.
I can have mine on and off again by the time you bolt yours into your fork.
We in Canadian Oil patch calls that anti-seize “dope”.
Pipe dope on my FRs would get everywhere if I didn't notice it.
you want to see 1 inch drive, pretty common at places that service big trucks and tractors. Got a nice 3/4 impact from there also.
I used to buy the really nice adjustable hitches. Both I had were over 200 bucks. But I’ve gone back to the simple 40 dollar hitches. Both adjustable hitches got stolen and both had lockable pins. After the second one I have up on the whole idea of having one hitch for anything.... 400 bucks buys a lifetime of the cheaper hitches 😂
I have a tube with 2 different ball sizes on one end and a hole drilled through the other end. When I need to move a trailer with my tractor I just slide the tube over the hitch and put a pin through the hole to hold it on instead of screwing a ball on all the time. I saw that in a farming magazine when I was a kid and remembered it 40 years later. "Now if a could only remember why I just walked into my office for."
I guess I missed where he actually mentioned what tool he regretted buying the most?
The mag drill. But he later stated that after using it he realised how useful it was.
Really useful tool btw
@@crum167 I agree about a magdrill's usefulness. When you need a magdrill, you NEED a magdrill. But they are expensive and unless you have a recurring need for one you are better off renting one
@@davidfrost7226 agreed.
Unless you're rich
My father made a little hitch for the edge of a bucket on a skid steer but he also made it for pallet forks/any forks. He had a chain hook on the end so you could chain it to the top of the bucket or the back of the forks.
Grandad's wisdom never ceases to amaze me. I'd love to see a photo of him some time! God bless
One of the first videos I watched was his granddad and jack on a four wheeler
Wow, okay guys, I'll look for those thanks!
I once heard about someone working on a state bridge crew. When he was told to pick up the mag drill, which was upside down on a bridge beam, when the shift was over, he unplugged it without securing it first. As far as I know it's still in the river.
Two things, first... I think you should always remind us to hit the thumbs up button. I don't always remember but when you remind me I always do it. Secondly..... I'm not the most religious person but I really like that you ask for prayers and that you say that you pray for us. It really comes off genuine and even a not so religious guy like me takes a minute for you and your family.
I used a tow ball that a bolt threads into. Cut a square hole in the fork and used a carriage bolt . That way, the bottom of the fork is flat , the threads are protected, and it's tightened/removed from the top.
That’s such a better mag drill than what we use at work I’m seriously impressed that’s awesome
How so? Just curious!
The best 'stock' mag drill I've ever used was a BDS maschinen, followed by an 'eibenstock-positron' (which I'd never heard of), and then all the Chinese clones. As with most other power-tools, manufacturers intentionally cripple everything but the highest end model just so they can address different market 'segments'. Single speed, non-reversible, just enough clearance to mount the maximum size drill bit "specified". Like the machines would explode if you used a 52mm bit instead of the maximum 50mm specified.
So I got tired and figured out how to mod the cheaper units instead.
I own two identical Chinese mag drills, electrically modded to run 330v DC 😱, infinitely variable speed, through-hole coolant, higher leverage (longer) handles, connecting rod for larger drill bits, so on. I'm yet to use a functionally equivalent stock mag-drill at a decent price point.
Whats done is done but at work we made up a box section with a tow bar on the end that slides over the tine and locks in with a pin behind the forks, it means that it can slide on and off when we need it and can be used on other machines also means you don't have to drill into your forks. If you want a sketch of it i can send it in an email :)
Did I just hear Cody Wranglerstar say he leans left?
that Mag drill is easy to move around. I had to do earthquake retro fit on a large steel structure and had to use a come-a-long to lift the BIG BUX and drill horizontal holes.
Walk in a forest and you will go left in a circle, especially for those right dominant, same happens in snow and sand apparently
Did you forget about the oil reservoir for lubricating the cutter.
Cannot believe how fast that was. It gave me anxiety watching it plung through. I just knew your bit was about to melt into a puddle. LOL!
i know that this is an old video, but they do make attachments that have a hitch ball on them. you just drive the forks into the pockets and then secure the attachment to the backstop rack then it is on to business. If you are a welder you can make one yourself out of rectangle tube steel or c channel and strap pieces, but you have to do some math to make sure that everything will be solid enough to handle the intended loads.
Seems like the squealing from the bit is being caused by such a large bit turning too fast and is burning up the bit. If that thing has a speed setting I'd try slowing it down.
Forks are hard so they don't bend easily.
So on an annual cutter I.E. slugger bit for most, the way they are sharpened each tooth is actual not exactly the same height its minimal talking tenths but when you dont have enough pressure to start the chip load in the cut. It runs on just one tooth causing the chatter. When you give it feed pressure you engage all the teeth in the cut evening out the load on the cutter and taking out the vibration resonance or the ringing and chatter that you hear.
Made my skin crawl when he drilled with no fluid
Same....even water in a spray bottle with some dish soap or wd 40 both can be used in a pinch if it's only a hole or two.
He used the "cutting-gel" for lubrication.
with the left side you are right... most cars have driver on left side.. so you see more things on the left... i ride mainly 16ton forklift and its seat is off centered for some reason to the left... but even smaller ones are off center to the left
That rotabroach went through that fork like it was butter!👍
Why didnt you fashion a piece to slide the forks into? At an old job they used very thick rectangular pieces and welded the ball onto a piece of metal connecting the 2. So instead of having to attach a ball to the tractor or forklift they simply slid the forks into the metal and basically had a centered ball trailer hitch. Worked amazingly
I can’t help but notice all the mtb gear 😀
@wranglerstar - Little tip I've figured out. When removing a hitch ball you can just clamp the nut into the vice, then use the recever like a wrench to losen the nut. Usually it comes right off and you don't need to head to the toolbox.
I don’t think you realize that you are living so many peoples dreams
I have a 1 inch impact and like 3 sockets for it. My uncle bought it form a dude who worked in the shop with him. And He was going to sell it to someone he knew who needed one. We have never used it I just now got it to where it would hook up to the air tank. But that thing is a monster. It’s a wrist breaker
One of the most underrated tools for sure. I've used them on titanium pipe and other non-ferrous material by using steel plate clamped in place with quality chain grips.
On large sites make sure you tag the extension cord with "Mag Drill in Use" just incase some skeezbag decides unplugging an unknown cord for a minute is no big deal.
As someone who has driven forklifts and telehandlers for 30 plus years,I would not drill the forks as I have seen too many of them bend without drilling by upto 30 degrees at around the point you are drilling it.I would buy(around £300)or hire a purpose built attachment.Otherwise make one up basically one fork extension cut short and a couple of threaded bolts and attach the towball.
i just love it how you say professional homeowner
we use a welded sleeve with the ball attached welded to it, that goes over the skid tip,
still with a hole in the forks and a hole in the sleeve, right the way through and a locking pin,
so theres no bolting involved to fit it and it comes off real quick.
Love the can smash trick! I'll definitely use that one!
Doesn't work so well on the plastic cans of anti-seize. I just put the old one aside for a couple of months until I've used an inch or so of the new container, then use a tongue depressor and scoop the residue from the old one into the new container.
Bolt locks are amazing! I have a hitch pin lock, a couple pad locks, and my in-bed toolbox has a Bolt lock as well. It's awesome. For non truck related padlocks, I got some Abus locks with Schlage cores. I can key them alike to my house key so I only have to carry that one key to get into sheds/gates/whatever.
Thanks for a great channel. When you use the mag drill upside down on a girder, Always tie it on. All it takes is to blow a breaker or accidentally unplug and the drill will drop like a lead balloon.
Same thing turning a steering wheel to the left, I have heard before that it has something to do with the location of your heart being slightly to the left of your torso!
On the east coast it's called a fork lol. That's a handy drill press.
Thanks for the reminder to comment! It’s free and fun! 😅
Those are good hitches for highway use, but for gravel/off road use they get bound up with mud and dirt, had many the pins got stuck in and had to press out , also had the pins bend under a heavy load , but haven't had a problem with the one on my highway rig .
I wonder how much of the "looking to the left" thing is conditioning over instinctual. When you drive a car, you are on the left and need to look out the left side of the car. I wonder if you lived in a country where you drive on the right side if you tend to favor the right over the left.
Not sure about the looking side of things, I'd prefer to look out on the right but that could be just me, not because we drive on the rhs.
The turning left on a bike preference is the same though.
turning left is definitely easier here in a RHD car. mainly due to visibility.
Hi Cody, check out Gen-Y hitches, they make an adjustable hitch that has torsion suspension built in. We have a equipment rental business and we are always delivering equipment with different trailers and the Gen-Y Boss has been a game changer, better ride and better fuel mileage. They have an incredible assortment of hitches and other accessories.
so what was the regrettable tool? everyone seems to love the magnetic drill
He regretted the mag drill but after a few uses he came around to loving it
You mentioned taking the mag lock drill and hanging it upside down or to the side of a beam; always tie it off to the structure in case power loss/breaker trip.
I learn the hard way.
i literally whistled at how quick it drilled through that steel. holy cow
Yeah, they are pricey though.
I whipped up a hitch receiver that slides over both forks. Then you can swap hitches quickly and efficiently, or have plain forks when you need them
Annular Cutter -- Adam Savage did a whole episode about these.
Great tool!
@Wanglerstar when using annular cutters for a mag base drill, get yourself some water soluble oil (the kind used on lathe's and milling machines), I see alot of people using cutting oil for these as lubricant, but really it's not lube the cutters need, it's heat dissipation, heat kills the cutters very quickly, even just plain water will prolong the cutter life more than cutting oil will.
Cutting oil works great, I have a bottle of good quality cutting oil i use with my mag drill and the difference it makes vs if I don't use it is significant. Mag drills 99% of the time are stop go stop go, and get time to cool between hole setups with oil, Ive never over heated my bits when using oil, the oil also reduces heat build up to begin with the lubrication reduce friction and reduce tool pressure needed to cut a chip.
The occasional time when I didn't use oil ran out and had 1 or 2 left, the force needed to cut goes up and its harder to get a chip forming, that's when you can really damage your bits, and can get overheating.
I keep a rag there when im done to wipe the oil and chips off the steel and cutter works great.
That's my experience anyway I also use paste if I'm cutting vertically sometimes, but a good quality cutting oil is what ive found to be the best for my applications, for lathes and mills tool engagement is generally longer and there's an element of flushing required too they also have a pump so they can get greater volume of fluid on target. Water based solution suits that overall system.
For mag drilling in my experience and my use cases I find oil to be a better option all round.
I'm sure water based suits other people and there work applications better.
“East Coast guy” comments always makes me laugh. Thanks for the humor
mag drills are used used pretty often on structural steel. especially in smaller shops and on job sites
That drilling with no cutting oil is painful to watch...
I guess he forgot to read in the manual about the oil reservoir
I think that driving on the right means I can see farther through left hand turns/curves. I can see the whole line of the curve, the apex, and the exit. With more confidence in the future curve line I am following, I can smoothly apply the brakes and throttle, predicting my trail braking and roll on. That confidence lets me take left curves faster and with therefore more lean.
This East Coast guy thumbs up this West Coast guy's videos before even watching just to make sure I don't forget.
Fun fact( if you ride bikes you might know this) if you stand on a mountain bike, or what ever pedal power bike, and you are more comfortable riding right foot forward, you are usually more comfortable turning to the left, and if your left foot forward, you are usually more comfortable turning to the right. Regular or goofy footed are the terms.
I make little jewelry out of wire, my workspace is such a mess aaa
The drill press is called a magnetic rotobroach when i was working in construction.the forks are tines.
I'm 15 and live on a farm in Australia and i just love watching all of wranglerstars videos and implementing his ideas and knowledge on my own farm. love what you're doing Cody. if you see this i just want to say you have genuinely made my life better. God bless all.
We have bw hitches on our work trucks. Last time we adjusted the height one of the pins was bent.
The only reason he would need that drill is if he's planning on breaking into a bank vault, watch the news lol
Hey. I make pac stoves. I have two pro tips to share. Used motor oil goes on most things i put on the drill press or cut off saw. My drill bits last much longer, ect. I also polish my leather danner boots with used motor oil. Those boots are more than 20 years old atm.