I bought a microshift 12 speed bar end shifter about a year ago for this exact reason, at the time I ran it in friction with a 10 speed XT derailleur and cassette, and have just upgraded to SLX 12 speed derailleur and 11-50 cassette, now with the shifter in index mode, works a treat
Love that you're educating people on the pros of old tech on new bikes. Been using friction shifting since the early 70's when there wasn't anything else. I still use 6 speed free wheels too so I'm not exactly a cutting edge cyclist. But I don't spend hours and dollars trying to get my derailleur tuned so I'll stick with friction.
Just gone back to friction shifting on my alt bar, 90s ATB commuter. Rear derailleur was always getting knocked in the work bike park so was always needing tweaking. Now, they just work no matter what. Love them.
I've been using a set of Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters from I think 1999. Reliable parts. They are perfect for the super muddy cross races when everyone elses brifters are clogged with dirt and gunk!
Thanks for this great info!!! This is one of my favorite topics in your videos (the others are: alternative cycling 'kit', the new ATB series, & shoes). You've been a very positive influence on my having a very healthy contrarian's version of a mid-life crisis--having fun riding a bike and doing practical things with it, all while not looking like I'm dressed for Halloween, or like I'm thousands of miles behind the peloton that's somewhere across an ocean, and on another continent.
I use the $10 dollar friction shifter. It's designed for 8 speeds, but you can modify it by breaking some of the plastic parts that stop it from going all the way round so you can basically extend the travel of the cable.
In the mid 1960’s I was riding a London, handbuilt steel frame equipped with Campag Record gear set with Record bar end shifters. Once you had become familiar with the system it never missed a gear. Indexed paddle shifters are fine but it is a similar comparison to analogue and digital cameras.
Friction is soo nice! I got 9 speed microshift bar ends, 10 speed shimano SLX rear mech, 10 speed sram rival Front mech, 11 speed chain, 11-42 11 speed cassette and a 46/30 8-10 speed velo orange crankset. It works amazingly!
I love my Shimano Dura Ace bar-ends in friction mode. I bought them new about 5 years ago for my touring bike to replace cheaper MicroShift levers that had a lot of slop in their index stops. Comparable in price to the Rivendell and come with extra parts and stops for downtube conversions.
Hello! I have 9s Dura Ace bar-end shifters from my Trek 520, and I was wondering if I could pair them with 11s casette (say 11-40) and 9s Deore rear rear derailleur. Do you think it would work? Thanks!
Good Video. Friction mode is a fine shifting mode but there is a learning curve. I have modified older MTB shifters for modern deraillers by bending the travel limit tabs on my Suntour shifters and they shift a 10 speed with no problem. Thanks for covering this subject.
For anyone who hasn’t felt the micro ratcheting in these shifters, you should. It’s clicky but smooth, and very satisfying. Feels like a 108-point freehub driver. There’s a reason the old 70s Suntour Power bar were made for over a decade and still fetch $40-50 a pair easily. When you think about it that way, the expense of the Silver and Ene bar ends is more justifiable. I love mine.
There are the SunRace SLM96 (Thumb) + SLR96 (Bar-End) as well with a ratchet, the ratchet is maybe not as smooth like Silver + Dia-Compe and work only up to 9s but at a fraction of the cost at least here in Germany. The folks at Rivendell do like them too and the shifter are very nicely made. I run those SLM96 friction on a 2x9 drivetrain on my touring bike and plan to convert my '09 Surly Pugsley (2x9) soon as well.
My 1990 Bianchi Volpe originally had some indexed Suntour shifters very similar to those Dia Compe Wing shifters. I hated them and changed them for Suntour Barcons. (I still have them. If you are interested in experimenting with them, I'd be happy to send them to you) The Barcons are starting to get more difficult to find, so good information here. Thanks.
I remember the Suntour wing shifter you mentioned. I bought a right non indexed one to control my tandem rear drum drag brake. Never used as a gear shifter though the video get me curious to try it.
Ah (gestures nostalgically) those Suntour Accu-shift drop bar shifters - they came stock with the weirdest "road" bike I've ever owned, the GT Tachyon. If memory serves, their pull maxxed out for an 8 spd cassette span, but it's nice to see their silver counterparts are available now.
I have a set of the 10 speed Silver bar ends and an 11 speed cassette, 105 derailleur. Works well without any mods. After changing wheels the "new" Ultegra hubs with a 10 speed freehub that the cassette did not fit. Rather than buy a 9 speed chain, I removed the 13 tooth cog and put the spacer behind the cassette. Making a 10 speed cassette (11-32) using 11 speed cogs and chain. The wonders of friction shifting!
LOVE these videos on hacks! It helps me a lot to know which components work together. I too am a friction shifter kinda guy. I am thinking of upgrading my rear wheel to a cassette hub with a drive train to match. Now I know what to buy! Too bad I can't buy through you to support this channel.
I've been all about Gevenalle + friction shifter for the past couple years. Lovin it! Works well with all derailleurs, even the cable-hungry Shimano 11 speed MTB. But I would say it's best when your ride is "predictable." An indexed shifter is still my choice for tricky terrain.
To add to the working possibilites, here is my setup: I use Diacompe downtube shifters with an 9 speed alivio RD and a 10 speed cassette (11-34) and it works flawlessly. The ratcheting is super useful. I have a specialized rockhopper with a 11speed Microshift bar end, a Deore XT RD and a 10 speed cassette (also 11-34) and while it works fine, I do miss the ratcheting mechanism. (also, i occassionally poke my knee on the bar end, even with 24° flare on a 460 cm gravel bar from ritchey). Overall I am super pleased with friction and love the cross compatibility of it.
I have old suntour barcons with a 2 x 10. The original bike that had those shifters was a 2 x 6. Anyway they work great on the 2 x 10 and they ratchet. I use an Altus rear derailleur but I had to get an extender for my 11-42 rear cassette. Anyway it works great together.
Another data point to toss into the mix. I just set up a Rivendell SIlver shifter (supposedly 9 speed max) to shift a 105 R7000 (11 speed) rear derailleur across an 8 speed cassette (with a 9 speed chain). It actually seems to shift better than the Ultegra 6500 that it is replacing because there is a little more throw per shift. I have more room on the shifter to fine tune the gear. Of course, I can't go back to my 8 speed indexed shifter with this setup as the pull ratio is different. Send from my shed of questionable concepts.
If you going friction, it allows you the option to find and go back to sensible cog/sprocket dimensions in order to have cassettes that are properly durable. They've become wayyy too thin to accommodate the # of speeds and the ramps to aid indexing. I've bent teeth a few times now.
@@janeblogs324 Yeah sort of a related issue. Root pb is narrower rollers and sprockets mean the same forces are distributed over smaller contact area. So the greater stresses drive higher wear rates. Even if ppl don't have overload events like bent teeth, their chains and cassettes wear down more rapidly. There's a price to pay for everything. I have a 1X11 MTB and its shifting is super fussy. Not so with older 3X8 MTB I use as a rain bike and never clean nor maintain. The old
Russ, you're really into this topic and I like it.. I find I can like most shifters. I have older Shimano bar ends on an old Trek with a 6 spd freewheel, sti brifters kon an old Specialized Allez and indexed Shimano thumb shifters on an old Gary Fischer mtb bike. All do their Job well. The bar cons in friction mode shift well and shift passably in index mode, surprising for 40 year old parts. I've had a few brifters fail after a bike tipped over and don't really like the extra cable housing for bar cons. But they all work better than down tube shifters, though my Allez came with indixed 8 sp down tube shifters and I thought that was the ultimate years ago. I really like the ability to mix and match drivetrain components to make a bike feel personalized and reuse great old products beside saving money. Keep up the creative reports, it's great for all us old bike folks. By the way I've started riding fat tires more because of your channel. Thanks.
There are aswell the SunRace SLM96 (Thumb) + SLR96 (Bar-End) Friction Shifter with a Ratchet, not as smooth + sweet as the Dia-Compe/Silver but very affordable and nicely well built. I run the SLM96 L+R Friction on a VO Granola Bar mounted Rivendell Esque inside the bar for 6 month now, with a 2x9 drivetrain. I couldn't be happier it looks and works perfectly.
I recently installed Rivendell Silver Shifters and Bar Ends on my Soma Saga with a 10 speed Shimano 11-36 cassette, 105 rear derailleur, and compact double crank. Rivendell suggested I may need to switch to a 9 speed derailleur but several rides later , all ten speeds shift flawlessly.
Well gosh darn! Friction shifters work great on the down tube, too! You don't reach up into the handlebars. You reach behind the front wheel, a very stable point of balance out of the wind, and grip the shifters in line with your fingers, oriented to twist the levers with precision or adjust tension with the wing nuts. The cables make short runs under the BB and don't stretch very much, making micro adjusts crisp and clean. I replaced a frayed front derailleur cable last week and couldn't remember the last time I had to do it. Cables are the only part that wears out, this one in a slightly misaligned cable guide on the BB. Down tube shifters are also out of harm's way in a crash. They could be hit by the front rim brake caliper if the front wheel flips sideways, but they never make contact with the tarmac. They're, like the bike itself, elegant in their simplicity.
Great info! I'm thinking of converting my 1999 Rivendell Custom from 3x9 (24-36-46 w/ 11-23) to 2x11 (26-42 w/ 11-28) and want to keep my Ultegra long cage 9-speed RD, so knowing that it should work with Silver shifters, new cranks, new cassette (just had to replace my rear wheel, and the new wheel can take an 11-speed cassette, where the previous was up to 10 only, which started me down this rabbit hole...) and new chain. I last shifted friction on 8-speed on my 1998 Ibis Mojo when the "click stops" on the bar-end shifters became "click slops" and it just didn't index any more. 8 speed friction isn't that good, so I converted it to 3x9 and got new indexed bar-end shifters and it's been fine, but I wouldn't mind shifting the front a lot less. I may convert the Ibis from 3x9 (24-35-43, 12-36) to 2x10 (26-40, 11-40 if I can find one) and will go with Microshift on that, as I'll have to replace the RD, and may want to keep indexed shifting on the off-road bike. I suppose I could move the LX 9-speed over to the Riv if the Ultegra doesn't work. These are both rainy winter projects.
It definitely should work well. One thing that I didn't hear mentioned was putting an older or shorter ranged derailleur on a Wolf tooth derailleur hanger extension (or the generic equivalents.) These inexpensive ($22 or less!) additions have allowed my older, 9-speed derailleurs to function very well on wide range 10-speed cassettes with no difficulties on my Riv A. Homer Hilsen. I've used them on triple crank and double crank setups with excellent results.
Great Video! Your video inspired me to do a budget Trek1000 roadbike to cyclocross conversion. Raising the stem, adding Bullhorn bars and some cheap ebay used bar end shifters. I was just looking at the gevenalle and micro shift versions last night though actually. One thing to note, is that if your bike has tube shifters theres an option to just re-use those and have them mounted on the Gevenalle drop levers (save a buck) - AUDAX - Shifting Systems with Friction Shifters or available without shift levers.. If that don't work I have a blue schwinn Homegrown I'm converting to drop bars. Plan is to get both setup and then run the course and see which I like better. very informative and inspiring videos.
Sweet Russ! I have waited for someone to do this and you did it perfectly. Where was this 10 years ago when I started figuring out all this same stuff. Great content and I learned a few things that I now have to try. Thanks...Keep the supple side down, Cheers
Awesome thanks Russ I've got a new bike with sora 9speed. I'm probably going alt bars and friction shifting due to neck and shoulder issues. Also ease of maintenance 😌
I've been using a Shimano 3 X 8 speed indexed shifting system for more than 20 years and it works just fine. My experience is that it works with no fuss as long as it's reasonably clean. I'm willing to try a friction shifting system, as I understand the advantages and disadvantages they offer. My concern is my current indexed shifting system still works and I don't want to fix it until it breaks.
I love watching these videos but I often question why do we always have to justify something THATS WORKS?! Friction shifting an 11 speed clearly works if it’s set up properly. Sometimes bike people are so annoying with the “right way” of doing things. Yet when you ask who came up with this so called right way and what committee etched it in stone no one has an answer.
Hype & monetisation steam rolls the old in favour of the new. Gotta be all about spendy-spendy on the latest & 'greatest'. I love Russ's take on the supply chain issues and the Mad Max analogy!
When you are working on your own ride, it’s your own time time you are spending, and your own life you are risking. Doing it for pay and hopefully profit is another matter, where if your client bites it, you can have a chance of passing the responsibility for the failure along to the manufacturer. “Hacking” can be done, and done well, but it needs such detailed knowledge that can only come from decades of study and experience. And then try getting paid what that’s worth!
Thanks, Russ! I just added a Box Prime -9 setup on my Newsboy build, and ran into some issues with their trigger shifter, so I have a Sunrace 9spd thumbie on the way. We'll see how it holds up against the not inconsiderable pull of the Box Two's clutch setup.
Ordered Paul thumbie for my microshift friction shifter (8 speed Shimano internal gear hub). Because it was last one and I need it for surly corner bar. Friction rules!
G'Day. I reverted back to friction shifters after having strife with click shift gear. Sunrace might still make a thumb shifter that works up to 9 sprockets.
Thanks, Russ, suuuuper helpful! I didn't know about needing a larger barrel for modern drivetrains. The SunRace shifter I tried for my conversion didn't work, so I came here for help. I'm gonna try MicroShift and report back afterwards.
I recently restored an old 80's road bike. It was the first bike I ever fixed up. At first I was convinced that it should have modern indexed shifting until I realized that you cant just cobble together an indexed drivetrain. You either have to buy a matching groupset, or research parts. If your a Frankenstein bike kind of guy like me you'll find that to be lame. With friction just have to make sure the lever can pull the cable enough to get the chain across all the gears as he explained well in this video. Friction shifting is easier than I thought. After about 2 hours of practice I had it dialed in.
Right on! I'm just about to do a "dremel mod" to my shimano bar end pod to get a SIlver shifter to fit. Hmm. I guess I could also do the mod to the square center washer. Anyway, it's fun to play with this stuff.
Thank you for this excellent reference to make my own cave of bad ideas be less bad. I’m always interested in ideas to make my bike collection cross compatible, upgradable, customizable, all terrain and of course apocalypse proof!
Good timing. I'm just starting a new build-up and the first using 'modern' components. I've been wondering why not go 12 speed but you hint at possible problems. Is this just the worries that come along every time a cog is added but will soon be accepted as the norm or do you think 12 is one too much and will always bring a compromise too many? You've already convinced me to look seriously at 2x (I skipped 1x and have been riding 3x for decades). Sounds like 2x 11 is the way for me but now to see if I can get it to work on a square taper BB ( because everything since sq taper has been a downgrade in longevity IMO). Thanks again!
@@cc-000 I've spent most of my cycling life with 3x. Even my serious lightweight road bike was 3x back when a 700c x 28 was considered ballon tyres. I don't hate on them but can see the appeal of straighter chain lines, better 'q factor' (not a thing that's ever bothered me but hey..) and most importantly simplicity. I like to use 2x where the smaller ring is the emergency quick change when an incline suddenly catches you out. Other than that cruising up and down the cassette for an easy life. The temptation of less severe jumps between gears with a 12 speed does appeal but the subtext of worries over reliability and availability during the zombie apocalypse does make me wonder. After all it wasn't that long ago I decided 8 speed was the limit and all those flimsy narrow chains were guaranteed to be a disaster.... ;)
Regarding the 2x11 - I have a working Grand Cru Drillium 110 Fluted Double Crankset 2x10 setup with a square taper. (Token JIS BB, 117mm) on my old frame. no issues :)
I can't get on with bar end shifters. I'm a dyed in the wool retro-grouch but that position seems to be about the least accessible and useful of all the common possibilities, but the thing that really made them last no more than a week or two for me was the way storing the bike away almost always resulted in a nudge to the shifter and me grinding away the next time out like some noob whilst the derailleur did it's best to find whatever gear the shifter had randomly settled on. Stem shifters are the future...
There are these mounts to have extra space at the cockpit. They come with either one clamp and a short rod or two clamps and a longer rod. With them it is possible to bring the shifters close to the position of the grips on a flatbar, might also work for a dropbar. The rod can be exchanged with a shortened handlebar for people who want the extra space on the cockpit or the rod gets shortened to just fit each shifter for each side. It also depends on the bend of the actual handlebar when using the shortened handlebar together with the mounts or bars with the same bend can be used to let them line up better. It is as always an issue of the look and/or ergonomy in the end.
I currently run the 9 spd ene thumby with a 7 spd deore derailleur circa 1990. Prior to that I used a 9 spd SLX derailleur. No issues or modding. A bit of dialing in though.
I see I'm not alone thinking about biking in the grim future that's coming with climate change and more. I noticed you talked about mad max future more then once, and I hope you will continue doing so. Hopefully bikes will remain important and useful whatever the challenges we will have to face, and we will be able to keep them rolling with the parts available.
My latest analogy is the guitar. You learn how to tune it. It sounds right, so you're in tune. As a cyclist, it doesn't take long to learn how a properly adjusted shift sounds and feels. So, learn that skill, (in 10 minutes) and there you go. Now you don't need indexing. You don't need electronic. You don't need wireless. You don't need to empty your wallet on complicated gadgetry.
Hey Russ. Great vid as always. Just one thing. You said Dia Compe don’t do bar end, but I just ordered some off eBay called dia compe bar end control ‘silver’. They’re 8/9/10 speed - maybe related to the Rivendell ones?
I really want to get into friction shifting having only really been interested in bikes the last couple years. Everything I own and would look to comes brifter though. I was thinking, if I ever sell the bike I don't want anymore and get one to replace it, I can just pull it's parts off, keep as backups, and get a microshift setup to install. Go with friction levers and then I'll have it to play with!
IIRC, Shimano road changed the cable pull when they switched from x800 groupsets to the x000 groupsets. So I expect (?) the silver shifters would be fine with a 105 5800 rear mech, but not a 105 7000 mech
Russ, your last two videos make me feel normal. Still waiting for the old campy ergo triple shift vid. There was a period of time when higher end touring bikes may have been specced with campy ergo's and a jtek bodge. The FD shift action and cable routing was superior to Shimano offerings.
Hi Russ! You once again convinced me to tinker with my perfectly functioning bike 😂 Just a question please- if my limit screws are set with my current trigger shifters, are further adjustments needed when I install friction shifters? Thanks!
I've been watching your other tire videos and just ordered the 700x32 Rene Herse ULs for my classic roadbike that will see occasional gravel. Looking to build some tubulars soonish. I've been running the 700 silca latex tubes and they are super coosh no probs yet even over decent gravel.
Another added benefit of using an older 9 speed rear derailleur - no clutch! I have a weird irrational dislike of clutch derailleurs because I’m convinced they add unnecessary drivetrain resistance for most applications.
I'd be interested to learn what you think about the grip shifters. I am using them on my upgraded 90's cross country/touring bike and love the experience - reliable and clean on the bar. In my opinion they have pretty similar idea behind them compared to friction shifters - intuitive/by-ear shifting.
I have an 8 speed drive train with a triple chain ring setup. I'm using an 11-42 cassette and a box 4 derailleur...I had the box 4 paddle index shifter but switched to a microshift bar end set in friction mode. Right now I can't seem to get the shifter to use the full range of the cassette. I've set the high and low set screws and the B limit screw to make sure the derailleur clears the gears as I shift but just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong....work good before switching to bar end 8 speed shifter.
Love any and all friction shifting videos! I think I know the answer to this question, but would it be possible, in friction mode, to run a 11 speed Shimano SLX RD-M7000 rear derailleur with an 11-46 cassette, shifted by a 10 speed Microshift thumb shifter? I am assuming the cassette stack height will be too much for the shifter, but I wasn’t sure if there is any wiggle room with the 10 speed shifter to allow you to reach the low gear on the 11 speed cassette. I would normally buy the correct shifter, but I have all these parts laying around…might be worth a shot! Thanks Russ! Long time fan (:
Awesome Job! Quick question for you, I have a shimano xt 10 spd mtn bike group that I want to put on a old road bike, what would be the best friction shifter thumbie to use on the top of the drop bar?
Friction shifters will always work with [any] derailleur and cassette... Well there'll be some exceptions. My view on the expectations should be how tough your fingers are to shift harder derailleurs and a good ear to listen for mis-shifts.
I am looking for a deep drop road bicycle handlebar that is 19 to 21 mm ID at the ends of the handlebars so I can install bar end shifters. I keep running into handlebars that are only 17 mm inside diameter and won't take brifters.
I have a 90s 21-speed mountain bike that I've had since I was a teenager. I don't know much about changing out bike components, but my left shifter is broken and I was looking at replacing with friction shifters. Which one would you recommend? Also, the current shifters are "connected" to the brake levers, so would I need to replace those too?
Hi! I’m in the middle of a parts bin project and I have a 8speed cassette and an 11speed derailleur. Is there a shifter that would make this work?? Cheers! AK
So far I thought friction shifters were a great budget option,but it seems they are not cheap at all. A pair of Sensah 11 speed levers cost just about the same.
You can get cheaper options but these are the best. With a pair of Sensah 11 you can only ever use an 11spd derailleur and 11spd cassette and are forever locked into that ecosystem. After the sunk cost of friction shifter you can use any cassette and compatible derailleur.
WAIT!!?? The Rivendell Silver on a thumb mount, used as a thumbshifter, will work for an 11spd !!! (7:45 -8:00).. That seems like the best upright bar Hack! Why was that left out of the final synopsis?
Any tips to getting used to some old stem mounted friction shifters? I've been refurbishing an '80s road bike and its shifters are in a spot that you can't normally reach without moving your hands from their normal position(s)
Does anyone find the cable pull ratio of SRAM or Shimano works better with friction shifting 12 spd. I’ve run a friction SunTour LD-2800 Power Thumb shifter with a 10 spd DureAce derailleur and absolutely loved it. Using the same shifter with a 12 spd XT derailleur it feels as though the spacing of shifts are not equal at the lever. Thanks for your help.
Will an Ultegra 11-Speed Cassette (11-32T) work with a Deore XT RD-M750 - rear derailleur and a Riv Silver 2 shifter? What size chainring should I use on the front?
Hey Russ! I'm trying to set up a friction shifting set up for my 8 X 2 shimano altus set up. I have shimano tourney TZ friction shifter for my front derailleur. Do you have any recommendations for my rear derailleur?
I didn't think this was supposed to be complicated. I've got old Shimano RX1000 shifters with a newer Sora rear derailleur. Does it work? Of course it does.
Thats interesting. I asked Gevenalle if their 11spd shifter would work with Rival 11spd and they said it wouldnt, they said it only works with gx, but I didnt really believe them. Its tough to spend the money without knowing for sure though.
I don't ever plan to go beyond my current 9 speed rear cassette/derailleur setup. And while I appreciate the information on these 3 friction shifter combo options, they are all quite expensive (to me). What I'd really like to know is which "old school" Suntour or Shimano friction shifters will work with my 2x9 speed setup. For example, will a pair of old Shimano EM thumbies work? What about a cheapie set of old Suntour stem mount shifters? How can I determine if these types of "budget" friction shifters are going to work with a 9 speed Deore RR Der? I guess if I buy a pair cheap enough, I could just do trial and error.
As a general rule of thumb find a shifter from the same era as the derailleur. If its cheap it enough to not fret over if it doesn't work get it. Or you could just buy it right the first time and save time and money.
Is your collection of friction shifters available on Patreon only? 😁 I kid I kid. Rivendell Silver = Dia Compe Silver, ENE is the textured version of then same design and cable pull,
I am rebuilding a 1986 Cannondale SM600 for my 4’11” wife. It is an adult size bike (smallest frame size). Designed for use with 24” wheels. It solves toe clearance problems and frame geometry issues. The only problem is the top tube is a little long (maybe a short stem will help). And the paint sucks balls (bad paint adhesion issues to the aluminum). I plan to build it up as randonneur bike. I had originally collected vintage Campagnolo Euclid brakes and Campagnolo Centaur drive train. But now I am open to ANY suggestions anybody may have. Suggestions? (Be nice please).
HELP PLP .. or other bench wizards!! Cable pulley adapters... Could these enable my deer head thumb shifters or old Campagnola bar end shifters to manage an 11spd. ? Please say yes... but which cable pulley adapter plz? Is the "Problem Solvers Travel Agent" the part I am looking for? The Wolf Tooth Tanpan seems to be more specifically for this application, but will both work?
Love the thought of simplification! I was thinking that when I go back to a 2x, I would just manually move the chain, as I shifted the front so rarely. With a narrow wide chainring, I never get drops while mountain biking. Your thoughts?
hi Russ, am currently using GX shifter which Is great on my xt rd 11speed. And im curious to try their Audax shifter paired w/ dia-compe shifter. Just wana ask if Genevalle uses ratchet shifter for their Audax? Can use it also on 11speed & up? Great content. I’m loving friction shifting!
Have you tried the gevenalle audax? If you prefer just friction, why not go for the audax? I'm interested to see how it performs with rd's that have clutches...
@@PathLessPedaledTV Oh! I didn't know that... thanks for the info. It's just a minor bummer that for obvious reasons pull between mtb and rb/gravel/cx is different.
I'm laughing at myself a bit. Watched the whole thing, like the ideas, and could see doing a bike like that. Then I look at my two newest bikes and they're both SRAM AXS 12sp wireless.
I bought a microshift 12 speed bar end shifter about a year ago for this exact reason, at the time I ran it in friction with a 10 speed XT derailleur and cassette, and have just upgraded to SLX 12 speed derailleur and 11-50 cassette, now with the shifter in index mode, works a treat
What crankset did you use on 12 speed? The chainline aren’t the same on my 10 speed crankset
Thank-you for the upload. Friction shifting pros&cons arent covered much on RUclips.
Love that you're educating people on the pros of old tech on new bikes. Been using friction shifting since the early 70's when there wasn't anything else. I still use 6 speed free wheels too so I'm not exactly a cutting edge cyclist. But I don't spend hours and dollars trying to get my derailleur tuned so I'll stick with friction.
Just gone back to friction shifting on my alt bar, 90s ATB commuter. Rear derailleur was always getting knocked in the work bike park so was always needing tweaking. Now, they just work no matter what. Love them.
I've been using a set of Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters from I think 1999. Reliable parts. They are perfect for the super muddy cross races when everyone elses brifters are clogged with dirt and gunk!
Hey, will those old 8 speed friction shifters work with a 10 speed casette?
Thanks for this great info!!! This is one of my favorite topics in your videos (the others are: alternative cycling 'kit', the new ATB series, & shoes). You've been a very positive influence on my having a very healthy contrarian's version of a mid-life crisis--having fun riding a bike and doing practical things with it, all while not looking like I'm dressed for Halloween, or like I'm thousands of miles behind the peloton that's somewhere across an ocean, and on another continent.
I use the $10 dollar friction shifter. It's designed for 8 speeds, but you can modify it by breaking some of the plastic parts that stop it from going all the way round so you can basically extend the travel of the cable.
In the mid 1960’s I was riding a London, handbuilt steel frame equipped with Campag Record gear set with Record bar end shifters. Once you had become familiar with the system it never missed a gear. Indexed paddle shifters are fine but it is a similar comparison to analogue and digital cameras.
Friction is soo nice! I got 9 speed microshift bar ends, 10 speed shimano SLX rear mech, 10 speed sram rival Front mech, 11 speed chain, 11-42 11 speed cassette and a 46/30 8-10 speed velo orange crankset. It works amazingly!
Love the 9sp derailleur - 11spd cassette - 9spd shifter hack! Perfect for upgrading older MTBs :)
I love my Shimano Dura Ace bar-ends in friction mode. I bought them new about 5 years ago for my touring bike to replace cheaper MicroShift levers that had a lot of slop in their index stops. Comparable in price to the Rivendell and come with extra parts and stops for downtube conversions.
Hello! I have 9s Dura Ace bar-end shifters from my Trek 520, and I was wondering if I could pair them with 11s casette (say 11-40) and 9s Deore rear rear derailleur. Do you think it would work? Thanks!
Good Video. Friction mode is a fine shifting mode but there is a learning curve. I have modified older MTB shifters for modern deraillers by bending the travel limit tabs on my Suntour shifters and they shift a 10 speed with no problem. Thanks for covering this subject.
For anyone who hasn’t felt the micro ratcheting in these shifters, you should. It’s clicky but smooth, and very satisfying. Feels like a 108-point freehub driver. There’s a reason the old 70s Suntour Power bar were made for over a decade and still fetch $40-50 a pair easily. When you think about it that way, the expense of the Silver and Ene bar ends is more justifiable. I love mine.
There are the SunRace SLM96 (Thumb) + SLR96 (Bar-End) as well with a ratchet, the ratchet is maybe not as smooth like Silver + Dia-Compe and work only up to 9s but at a fraction of the cost at least here in Germany. The folks at Rivendell do like them too and the shifter are very nicely made. I run those SLM96 friction on a 2x9 drivetrain on my touring bike and plan to convert my '09 Surly Pugsley (2x9) soon as well.
My 1990 Bianchi Volpe originally had some indexed Suntour shifters very similar to those Dia Compe Wing shifters. I hated them and changed them for Suntour Barcons. (I still have them. If you are interested in experimenting with them, I'd be happy to send them to you) The Barcons are starting to get more difficult to find, so good information here. Thanks.
I remember the Suntour wing shifter you mentioned. I bought a right non indexed one to control my tandem rear drum drag brake. Never used as a gear shifter though the video get me curious to try it.
Ah (gestures nostalgically) those Suntour Accu-shift drop bar shifters - they came stock with the weirdest "road" bike I've ever owned, the GT Tachyon. If memory serves, their pull maxxed out for an 8 spd cassette span, but it's nice to see their silver counterparts are available now.
The old Shimano bar ends are also great. Nowadays you can still get the 9sp index/friction model for a good price sometimes.
Just did first bar ends on 85 Bianchi resto mod and I love it. So smooth and simple and sharp looking.
I have a set of the 10 speed Silver bar ends and an 11 speed cassette, 105 derailleur. Works well without any mods. After changing wheels the "new" Ultegra hubs with a 10 speed freehub that the cassette did not fit. Rather than buy a 9 speed chain, I removed the 13 tooth cog and put the spacer behind the cassette. Making a 10 speed cassette (11-32) using 11 speed cogs and chain. The wonders of friction shifting!
LOVE these videos on hacks! It helps me a lot to know which components work together. I too am a friction shifter kinda guy. I am thinking of upgrading my rear wheel to a cassette hub with a drive train to match. Now I know what to buy! Too bad I can't buy through you to support this channel.
I've been all about Gevenalle + friction shifter for the past couple years. Lovin it! Works well with all derailleurs, even the cable-hungry Shimano 11 speed MTB. But I would say it's best when your ride is "predictable." An indexed shifter is still my choice for tricky terrain.
This is some of the best drivetrain information I have ever witnessed. Shops have told me for years how none of this will work. Excuses excuses.
To add to the working possibilites, here is my setup: I use Diacompe downtube shifters with an 9 speed alivio RD and a 10 speed cassette (11-34) and it works flawlessly. The ratcheting is super useful. I have a specialized rockhopper with a 11speed Microshift bar end, a Deore XT RD and a 10 speed cassette (also 11-34) and while it works fine, I do miss the ratcheting mechanism. (also, i occassionally poke my knee on the bar end, even with 24° flare on a 460 cm gravel bar from ritchey).
Overall I am super pleased with friction and love the cross compatibility of it.
Not enough love for the 9sp Alivio RD
@@ehounshell yep, also it was dead cheap - and I have racked up 6k km on them this year alone. No issues whatsoever 👍
I have old suntour barcons with a 2 x 10. The original bike that had those shifters was a 2 x 6. Anyway they work great on the 2 x 10 and they ratchet. I use an Altus rear derailleur but I had to get an extender for my 11-42 rear cassette. Anyway it works great together.
Dope setup
I just transitioned from downtube to bar end shifting ~ and if I build myself another bike I’ll definitely do that with a pair of gevenalles 🙏
Love love love this video! Great info Russ! And you invented a new word: “Functionable” 😀
Another data point to toss into the mix. I just set up a Rivendell SIlver shifter (supposedly 9 speed max) to shift a 105 R7000 (11 speed) rear derailleur across an 8 speed cassette (with a 9 speed chain).
It actually seems to shift better than the Ultegra 6500 that it is replacing because there is a little more throw per shift. I have more room on the shifter to fine tune the gear. Of course, I can't go back to my 8 speed indexed shifter with this setup as the pull ratio is different.
Send from my shed of questionable concepts.
If you going friction, it allows you the option to find and go back to sensible cog/sprocket dimensions in order to have cassettes that are properly durable. They've become wayyy too thin to accommodate the # of speeds and the ramps to aid indexing. I've bent teeth a few times now.
@@janeblogs324 Yeah sort of a related issue. Root pb is narrower rollers and sprockets mean the same forces are distributed over smaller contact area. So the greater stresses drive higher wear rates. Even if ppl don't have overload events like bent teeth, their chains and cassettes wear down more rapidly. There's a price to pay for everything. I have a 1X11 MTB and its shifting is super fussy. Not so with older 3X8 MTB I use as a rain bike and never clean nor maintain. The old
Russ, you're really into this topic and I like it.. I find I can like most shifters. I have older Shimano bar ends on an old Trek with a 6 spd freewheel, sti brifters kon an old Specialized Allez and indexed Shimano thumb shifters on an old Gary Fischer mtb bike. All do their Job well. The bar cons in friction mode shift well and shift passably in index mode, surprising for 40 year old parts.
I've had a few brifters fail after a bike tipped over and don't really like the extra cable housing for bar cons. But they all work better than down tube shifters, though my Allez came with indixed 8 sp down tube shifters and I thought that was the ultimate years ago.
I really like the ability to mix and match drivetrain components to make a bike feel personalized and reuse great old products beside saving money.
Keep up the creative reports, it's great for all us old bike folks.
By the way I've started riding fat tires more because of your channel. Thanks.
There are aswell the SunRace SLM96 (Thumb) + SLR96 (Bar-End) Friction Shifter with a Ratchet, not as smooth + sweet as the Dia-Compe/Silver but very affordable and nicely well built. I run the SLM96 L+R Friction on a VO Granola Bar mounted Rivendell Esque inside the bar for 6 month now, with a 2x9 drivetrain. I couldn't be happier it looks and works perfectly.
I recently installed Rivendell Silver Shifters and Bar Ends on my Soma Saga with a 10 speed Shimano 11-36 cassette, 105 rear derailleur, and compact double crank. Rivendell suggested I may need to switch to a 9 speed derailleur but several rides later , all ten speeds shift flawlessly.
Well gosh darn! Friction shifters work great on the down tube, too! You don't reach up into the handlebars. You reach behind the front wheel, a very stable point of balance out of the wind, and grip the shifters in line with your fingers, oriented to twist the levers with precision or adjust tension with the wing nuts. The cables make short runs under the BB and don't stretch very much, making micro adjusts crisp and clean.
I replaced a frayed front derailleur cable last week and couldn't remember the last time I had to do it. Cables are the only part that wears out, this one in a slightly misaligned cable guide on the BB. Down tube shifters are also out of harm's way in a crash. They could be hit by the front rim brake caliper if the front wheel flips sideways, but they never make contact with the tarmac. They're, like the bike itself, elegant in their simplicity.
dt shifters are also super lightweight
Great info! I'm thinking of converting my 1999 Rivendell Custom from 3x9 (24-36-46 w/ 11-23) to 2x11 (26-42 w/ 11-28) and want to keep my Ultegra long cage 9-speed RD, so knowing that it should work with Silver shifters, new cranks, new cassette (just had to replace my rear wheel, and the new wheel can take an 11-speed cassette, where the previous was up to 10 only, which started me down this rabbit hole...) and new chain. I last shifted friction on 8-speed on my 1998 Ibis Mojo when the "click stops" on the bar-end shifters became "click slops" and it just didn't index any more. 8 speed friction isn't that good, so I converted it to 3x9 and got new indexed bar-end shifters and it's been fine, but I wouldn't mind shifting the front a lot less. I may convert the Ibis from 3x9 (24-35-43, 12-36) to 2x10 (26-40, 11-40 if I can find one) and will go with Microshift on that, as I'll have to replace the RD, and may want to keep indexed shifting on the off-road bike. I suppose I could move the LX 9-speed over to the Riv if the Ultegra doesn't work. These are both rainy winter projects.
It definitely should work well. One thing that I didn't hear mentioned was putting an older or shorter ranged derailleur on a Wolf tooth derailleur hanger extension (or the generic equivalents.) These inexpensive ($22 or less!) additions have allowed my older, 9-speed derailleurs to function very well on wide range 10-speed cassettes with no difficulties on my Riv A. Homer Hilsen. I've used them on triple crank and double crank setups with excellent results.
Great Video! Your video inspired me to do a budget Trek1000 roadbike to cyclocross conversion. Raising the stem, adding Bullhorn bars and some cheap ebay used bar end shifters.
I was just looking at the gevenalle and micro shift versions last night though actually. One thing to note, is that if your bike has tube shifters theres an option to just re-use those and have them mounted on the Gevenalle drop levers (save a buck) - AUDAX - Shifting Systems with Friction Shifters or available without shift levers..
If that don't work I have a blue schwinn Homegrown I'm converting to drop bars. Plan is to get both setup and then run the course and see which I like better.
very informative and inspiring videos.
Sweet Russ! I have waited for someone to do this and you did it perfectly. Where was this 10 years ago when I started figuring out all this same stuff. Great content and I learned a few things that I now have to try. Thanks...Keep the supple side down, Cheers
i love this channel, you do the exact kind of jank setups i love doing
Awesome thanks Russ I've got a new bike with sora 9speed. I'm probably going alt bars and friction shifting due to neck and shoulder issues. Also ease of maintenance 😌
I've been using a Shimano 3 X 8 speed indexed shifting system for more than 20 years and it works just fine. My experience is that it works with no fuss as long as it's reasonably clean. I'm willing to try a friction shifting system, as I understand the advantages and disadvantages they offer. My concern is my current indexed shifting system still works and I don't want to fix it until it breaks.
I love watching these videos but I often question why do we always have to justify something THATS WORKS?! Friction shifting an 11 speed clearly works if it’s set up properly. Sometimes bike people are so annoying with the “right way” of doing things. Yet when you ask who came up with this so called right way and what committee etched it in stone no one has an answer.
Hype & monetisation steam rolls the old in favour of the new. Gotta be all about spendy-spendy on the latest & 'greatest'.
I love Russ's take on the supply chain issues and the Mad Max analogy!
When you are working on your own ride, it’s your own time time you are spending, and your own life you are risking. Doing it for pay and hopefully profit is another matter, where if your client bites it, you can have a chance of passing the responsibility for the failure along to the manufacturer. “Hacking” can be done, and done well, but it needs such detailed knowledge that can only come from decades of study and experience. And then try getting paid what that’s worth!
My head is spinning. Next up pairing a Campagnolo rod shifter with 1x13. But seriously great work Russ.
Can't wait for my Microshift 9speed in the mail!
Thanks, Russ! I just added a Box Prime -9 setup on my Newsboy build, and ran into some issues with their trigger shifter, so I have a Sunrace 9spd thumbie on the way. We'll see how it holds up against the not inconsiderable pull of the Box Two's clutch setup.
The Box clutch is a beast! I had the Box2 with non adjustable clutch and it was a lot of spring to overcome.
Ordered Paul thumbie for my microshift friction shifter (8 speed Shimano internal gear hub). Because it was last one and I need it for surly corner bar. Friction rules!
G'Day. I reverted back to friction shifters after having strife with click shift gear. Sunrace might still make a thumb shifter that works up to 9 sprockets.
Thanks, Russ, suuuuper helpful! I didn't know about needing a larger barrel for modern drivetrains. The SunRace shifter I tried for my conversion didn't work, so I came here for help. I'm gonna try MicroShift and report back afterwards.
Any update on those Microshift friction shifters?
@@Frostbiker No, sorry to leave you hanging! I abandoned that build and moved on to something else. My wife just said, "It's called ADHD." 😅
Thanks for all the info Russ this really makes cycling more affordable and more accessible 👍
Going to try this on my winter bike set up
I just received my microSHIFT bar end shifter last night!
I recently restored an old 80's road bike. It was the first bike I ever fixed up. At first I was convinced that it should have modern indexed shifting until I realized that you cant just cobble together an indexed drivetrain. You either have to buy a matching groupset, or research parts. If your a Frankenstein bike kind of guy like me you'll find that to be lame. With friction just have to make sure the lever can pull the cable enough to get the chain across all the gears as he explained well in this video. Friction shifting is easier than I thought. After about 2 hours of practice I had it dialed in.
Right on! I'm just about to do a "dremel mod" to my shimano bar end pod to get a SIlver shifter to fit. Hmm. I guess I could also do the mod to the square center washer. Anyway, it's fun to play with this stuff.
Thank you for this excellent reference to make my own cave of bad ideas be less bad. I’m always interested in ideas to make my bike collection cross compatible, upgradable, customizable, all terrain and of course apocalypse proof!
Good timing. I'm just starting a new build-up and the first using 'modern' components. I've been wondering why not go 12 speed but you hint at possible problems. Is this just the worries that come along every time a cog is added but will soon be accepted as the norm or do you think 12 is one too much and will always bring a compromise too many? You've already convinced me to look seriously at 2x (I skipped 1x and have been riding 3x for decades). Sounds like 2x 11 is the way for me but now to see if I can get it to work on a square taper BB ( because everything since sq taper has been a downgrade in longevity IMO). Thanks again!
@@cc-000 I've spent most of my cycling life with 3x. Even my serious lightweight road bike was 3x back when a 700c x 28 was considered ballon tyres. I don't hate on them but can see the appeal of straighter chain lines, better 'q factor' (not a thing that's ever bothered me but hey..) and most importantly simplicity. I like to use 2x where the smaller ring is the emergency quick change when an incline suddenly catches you out. Other than that cruising up and down the cassette for an easy life. The temptation of less severe jumps between gears with a 12 speed does appeal but the subtext of worries over reliability and availability during the zombie apocalypse does make me wonder. After all it wasn't that long ago I decided 8 speed was the limit and all those flimsy narrow chains were guaranteed to be a disaster.... ;)
Regarding the 2x11 - I have a working Grand Cru Drillium 110 Fluted Double Crankset 2x10 setup with a square taper. (Token JIS BB, 117mm) on my old frame. no issues :)
I can't get on with bar end shifters. I'm a dyed in the wool retro-grouch but that position seems to be about the least accessible and useful of all the common possibilities, but the thing that really made them last no more than a week or two for me was the way storing the bike away almost always resulted in a nudge to the shifter and me grinding away the next time out like some noob whilst the derailleur did it's best to find whatever gear the shifter had randomly settled on. Stem shifters are the future...
There are these mounts to have extra space at the cockpit.
They come with either one clamp and a short rod or two clamps and a longer rod.
With them it is possible to bring the shifters close to the position of the grips on a flatbar, might also work for a dropbar.
The rod can be exchanged with a shortened handlebar for people who want the extra space on the cockpit or the rod gets shortened to just fit each shifter for each side.
It also depends on the bend of the actual handlebar when using the shortened handlebar together with the mounts or bars with the same bend can be used to let them line up better.
It is as always an issue of the look and/or ergonomy in the end.
I currently run the 9 spd ene thumby with a 7 spd deore derailleur circa 1990. Prior to that I used a 9 spd SLX derailleur. No issues or modding. A bit of dialing in though.
I see I'm not alone thinking about biking in the grim future that's coming with climate change and more. I noticed you talked about mad max future more then once, and I hope you will continue doing so. Hopefully bikes will remain important and useful whatever the challenges we will have to face, and we will be able to keep them rolling with the parts available.
My latest analogy is the guitar. You learn how to tune it. It sounds right, so you're in tune. As a cyclist, it doesn't take long to learn how a properly adjusted shift sounds and feels.
So, learn that skill, (in 10 minutes) and there you go. Now you don't need indexing. You don't need electronic. You don't need wireless. You don't need to empty your wallet on complicated gadgetry.
Hey Russ.
Great vid as always. Just one thing. You said Dia Compe don’t do bar end, but I just ordered some off eBay called dia compe bar end control ‘silver’. They’re 8/9/10 speed - maybe related to the Rivendell ones?
I really want to get into friction shifting having only really been interested in bikes the last couple years. Everything I own and would look to comes brifter though. I was thinking, if I ever sell the bike I don't want anymore and get one to replace it, I can just pull it's parts off, keep as backups, and get a microshift setup to install. Go with friction levers and then I'll have it to play with!
IIRC, Shimano road changed the cable pull when they switched from x800 groupsets to the x000 groupsets. So I expect (?) the silver shifters would be fine with a 105 5800 rear mech, but not a 105 7000 mech
Russ, your last two videos make me feel normal.
Still waiting for the old campy ergo triple shift vid. There was a period of time when higher end touring bikes may have been specced with campy ergo's and a jtek bodge. The FD shift action and cable routing was superior to Shimano offerings.
@rollinrat4850 I always keep a spare old 11 click FD in my parts bin.
Hi Russ! You once again convinced me to tinker with my perfectly functioning bike 😂
Just a question please- if my limit screws are set with my current trigger shifters, are further adjustments needed when I install friction shifters? Thanks!
I've been watching your other tire videos and just ordered the 700x32 Rene Herse ULs for my classic roadbike that will see occasional gravel. Looking to build some tubulars soonish. I've been running the 700 silca latex tubes and they are super coosh no probs yet even over decent gravel.
Another added benefit of using an older 9 speed rear derailleur - no clutch!
I have a weird irrational dislike of clutch derailleurs because I’m convinced they add unnecessary drivetrain resistance for most applications.
SunRace 10spd thumbies have ratchet and work with my wide range 10spd micro shift derailer and 11-48 cassette and are ratcheting.
I'd be interested to learn what you think about the grip shifters. I am using them on my upgraded 90's cross country/touring bike and love the experience - reliable and clean on the bar. In my opinion they have pretty similar idea behind them compared to friction shifters - intuitive/by-ear shifting.
Very helpful, I was looking for 11sp bar end to replace my old dura ace which only has about 8 1/2 cogs travel on an 11 cassette. Thanks
I have an 8 speed drive train with a triple chain ring setup. I'm using an 11-42 cassette and a box 4 derailleur...I had the box 4 paddle index shifter but switched to a microshift bar end set in friction mode. Right now I can't seem to get the shifter to use the full range of the cassette. I've set the high and low set screws and the B limit screw to make sure the derailleur clears the gears as I shift but just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong....work good before switching to bar end 8 speed shifter.
Love any and all friction shifting videos! I think I know the answer to this question, but would it be possible, in friction mode, to run a 11 speed Shimano SLX RD-M7000 rear derailleur with an 11-46 cassette, shifted by a 10 speed Microshift thumb shifter? I am assuming the cassette stack height will be too much for the shifter, but I wasn’t sure if there is any wiggle room with the 10 speed shifter to allow you to reach the low gear on the 11 speed cassette. I would normally buy the correct shifter, but I have all these parts laying around…might be worth a shot!
Thanks Russ! Long time fan (:
Awesome Job! Quick question for you, I have a shimano xt 10 spd mtn bike group that I want to put on a old road bike, what would be the best friction shifter thumbie to use on the top of the drop bar?
Russ, thanks for video. What is ratcheting? Not clear what this feature is for.
Friction shifters will always work with [any] derailleur and cassette... Well there'll be some exceptions.
My view on the expectations should be how tough your fingers are to shift harder derailleurs and a good ear to listen for mis-shifts.
Brilliant-thank you!
How about for a Brompton 6 to 9 speed conversion?
Hi Russ! Are you still using the wing shifters? What's the configuration you used with it and with what bike.
what bars are you running? I like the look of that shallow drop.
I am looking for a deep drop road bicycle handlebar that is 19 to 21 mm ID at the ends of the handlebars so I can install bar end shifters. I keep running into handlebars that are only 17 mm inside diameter and won't take brifters.
The grx on friction shifter drives me nuts
I have a 90s 21-speed mountain bike that I've had since I was a teenager. I don't know much about changing out bike components, but my left shifter is broken and I was looking at replacing with friction shifters. Which one would you recommend? Also, the current shifters are "connected" to the brake levers, so would I need to replace those too?
Radavist.
Hi! I’m in the middle of a parts bin project and I have a 8speed cassette and an 11speed derailleur. Is there a shifter that would make this work?? Cheers! AK
SO APPRECIATE your super powers!
So far I thought friction shifters were a great budget option,but it seems they are not cheap at all. A pair of Sensah 11 speed levers cost just about the same.
You can get cheaper options but these are the best. With a pair of Sensah 11 you can only ever use an 11spd derailleur and 11spd cassette and are forever locked into that ecosystem. After the sunk cost of friction shifter you can use any cassette and compatible derailleur.
I'm curious how well these would work with an internal gear hub and/or a belt drive.
WAIT!!?? The Rivendell Silver on a thumb mount, used as a thumbshifter, will work for an 11spd !!! (7:45 -8:00).. That seems like the best upright bar Hack! Why was that left out of the final synopsis?
Because the focus was on getting it to work with curly bars.
Any tips to getting used to some old stem mounted friction shifters? I've been refurbishing an '80s road bike and its shifters are in a spot that you can't normally reach without moving your hands from their normal position(s)
Does anyone find the cable pull ratio of SRAM or Shimano works better with friction shifting 12 spd. I’ve run a friction SunTour LD-2800 Power Thumb shifter with a 10 spd DureAce derailleur and absolutely loved it. Using the same shifter with a 12 spd XT derailleur it feels as though the spacing of shifts are not equal at the lever. Thanks for your help.
Will an Ultegra 11-Speed Cassette (11-32T) work with a Deore XT RD-M750 - rear derailleur and a Riv Silver 2 shifter? What size chainring should I use on the front?
Sir just want to ask about this..
Can i use different 2x left shifter(example m5100) to a new FD cues 6010 thx alot
Hey Russ! I'm trying to set up a friction shifting set up for my 8 X 2 shimano altus set up. I have shimano tourney TZ friction shifter for my front derailleur. Do you have any recommendations for my rear derailleur?
hey russ, what shifter clamp are you using at 3:45?
I didn't think this was supposed to be complicated. I've got old Shimano RX1000 shifters with a newer Sora rear derailleur. Does it work? Of course it does.
great video, very informative as usual, kudos to you Russ! question, will a Microshift work with SRAM Rival RD?
Yes
@@PathLessPedaledTV Thanks Russ!
Thats interesting. I asked Gevenalle if their 11spd shifter would work with Rival 11spd and they said it wouldnt, they said it only works with gx, but I didnt really believe them. Its tough to spend the money without knowing for sure though.
@@andygiametta517 it will work in friction. Not guaranteeing index.
@@PathLessPedaledTV friction : "This is the way". 😁
For a one by, what do you use to keep the chain from coming off the front chain ring?
A narrow-wide chainring.
When I had a 1x with a non clutch rear derailleur I used an inexpensive chainguide from Amazon. Worked well on my mountain bike.
Hi,
Does anybody know if Microshift BS-A11 right lever can can go on friction mode ? It is not that clear on Microshift web site
I don't ever plan to go beyond my current 9 speed rear cassette/derailleur setup. And while I appreciate the information on these 3 friction shifter combo options, they are all quite expensive (to me). What I'd really like to know is which "old school" Suntour or Shimano friction shifters will work with my 2x9 speed setup. For example, will a pair of old Shimano EM thumbies work? What about a cheapie set of old Suntour stem mount shifters? How can I determine if these types of "budget" friction shifters are going to work with a 9 speed Deore RR Der? I guess if I buy a pair cheap enough, I could just do trial and error.
As a general rule of thumb find a shifter from the same era as the derailleur. If its cheap it enough to not fret over if it doesn't work get it. Or you could just buy it right the first time and save time and money.
Suntour Power Thumbies!
Good video; thank you. Could you please correct the link for the Rivendell shifter?
fixed
Is your collection of friction shifters available on Patreon only? 😁 I kid I kid.
Rivendell Silver = Dia Compe Silver, ENE is the textured version of then same design and cable pull,
Thanks!
I am rebuilding a 1986 Cannondale SM600 for my 4’11” wife. It is an adult size bike (smallest frame size). Designed for use with 24” wheels. It solves toe clearance problems and frame geometry issues. The only problem is the top tube is a little long (maybe a short stem will help). And the paint sucks balls (bad paint adhesion issues to the aluminum). I plan to build it up as randonneur bike. I had originally collected vintage Campagnolo Euclid brakes and Campagnolo Centaur drive train. But now I am open to ANY suggestions anybody may have. Suggestions? (Be nice please).
Im not sure about that older Shimano derailleur working with a 40 tooth cassette....
HELP PLP .. or other bench wizards!! Cable pulley adapters... Could these enable my deer head thumb shifters or old Campagnola bar end shifters to manage an 11spd. ? Please say yes... but which cable pulley adapter plz? Is the "Problem Solvers Travel Agent" the part I am looking for? The Wolf Tooth Tanpan seems to be more specifically for this application, but will both work?
Both will likely work.
Love the thought of simplification! I was thinking that when I go back to a 2x, I would just manually move the chain, as I shifted the front so rarely. With a narrow wide chainring, I never get drops while mountain biking. Your thoughts?
I’ve tried that. And while charming it gets old rather quickly.
hi Russ, am currently using GX shifter which Is great on my xt rd 11speed. And im curious to try their Audax shifter paired w/ dia-compe shifter. Just wana ask if Genevalle uses ratchet shifter for their Audax?
Can use it also on 11speed & up? Great content. I’m loving friction shifting!
I have the Audaux and it ratchets, but won't pull enough for 11spd mountain.
Have you tried the gevenalle audax? If you prefer just friction, why not go for the audax? I'm interested to see how it performs with rd's that have clutches...
I do and have. It’s great. Only limited to 9spd pull derailleurs tho.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Oh! I didn't know that... thanks for the info. It's just a minor bummer that for obvious reasons pull between mtb and rb/gravel/cx is different.
I'm laughing at myself a bit. Watched the whole thing, like the ideas, and could see doing a bike like that. Then I look at my two newest bikes and they're both SRAM AXS 12sp wireless.
By this metric that makes you early zombie food.