Really really impressed with this Bikone and there product they have been putting out, They are a company out of Spain and seem to be coming on strong with the Backing and support from Pro teams Like TEAM UAE and also Tadej himself riding there products is enough to have a strong advocate, If you are interested in any of there products check them out here www.bikone.com/ and USE CODE: "GCPERFORMANCE15" for 15% off your total order!!! Enjoy the video.... Any questions let me know down in the comments.
Tbh not all cyclists care about riding faster. It’s also just as fun to enjoy riding an expensive bike even if you’re just ambling along slowly and chatting
I'm 5ft7 and have 105 172.5mm cranks. Love the torque power you get when accelerating and climbing. If I want to increase my cadence i simply shift to a lower gear and hit 90-100rpm no problem. Shorter cranks would make me less powerful so no need to change it.
Oh wow this video came out at the perfect time. I literally just ordered 165 cranks for my Shimano 105 and they came today. I want to thank you for the video. Keep the great work up. 🤙🏻
400€ for BB? God damn, bike industry is overpriced as hell. People are the problem here, becasue they´ll buy that expensive products no matter what. That allows BM to go crazy with prices! Just do not buy expensive stuff and than BM would have to lower the prices. (excuse my grammar)
There is a large portion of cyclists that are mechanically stupid..they see videos like this and are led astray by ignorance/greed...just the title alone..Grant needs $..he knows damn well the BB isnt going to do NOTHING but break the bank..he knows better and there are channels that will speak the truth...a simple search on yourube will show 1.5 watts difference betewen the best and the worst BB..FRICTION FACTS DATA..just like oversized pulleys and ti nuts and bolts..its a fools game..pros run what the team gets the best deal on..the pog could win on a stock 105 BB..i can buy 7 new dura ace bb for one stupid looking BLUE BB..some of the blame also goes to the channel spreading ignorance...NO, these "upgrades" will NOT make you any faster..a pro bike fit, best shoes or shorts or a coach might
That is so not true. They make those expensive parts for the top level pros and will continue to do so whether average consumers buy them or not. And if there are people with enough money to spend on those top end parts that pros use, good for them.
As another commenter already mentioned: this is completely incorrect. The pros will always ride the top stuff. For the top premium level stuff, you will pay a premium price. Like any company that produces high end premium stuff, they will come with premium price tags. The problem isn't the company or the buyer- it's not a problem at all. You have a problem with it because you can't afford it. And that's not a company problem or a buyer problem. You aren't the target market.
Find a new shop..get a wheels manufacturing or token if you have a press fit bb to stop creaking,,the cranks im sure are fine..shops take advantage of the uninformed sometimes ...ask questions..WHY do my cranks need replacing?greed ?
Beautiful job and what a fantastic BB. I have ceramic BB, not as good as that Bikone, but nonetheless I wouldn’t have BB now that isn’t ceramic. I also have 165mm pedals fitted and they too make a big difference and I agree provide a bio mechanical benefit. However, I have found sourcing 165mm cranks a total pain. They don’t seem to be readily available. It’s frustrating that bikes only come with standard 172.5mm cranks and in some cases you are hit up with the cost of full set of new cranks if you want 165mm. These days if you buy a bike and you want to swap out the handlebars, the crank lengths, BB, saddle etc they all add ons on top of the full retail price of the bike. It’d be better when ordering a bike you had the choice of swapping stuff out in exchange for “optioning up”. Look forward to hearing the customer’s feed back on the new cranks and especially the BB
yea it seems like a lot of the stock components ar eout dated and I made a video on this that thje handlebars and crank lengths are all old school widthys and lengths
I'm 6'2 riding a large frame canyon endurace. It came with 175mm cranks and when i went to get a bike fit, the fitter recomended me go with 165mm cranks. i was sceptical at first and was hesitant but after switching to shorter cranks my personal bests were sky rocketing on strava. it felt weird at first but i got used to them in a week or two. Plus I was able to get more aero on the bike I wasn't able to get that low without them. HIGHLY RECOMMEND you switch to shorter cranks
I'm 5'5 and been using 160mm crank arms on my SL8 and Crux, for a year now and it has been the best choice for my back problems and hip flexors. I enjoy ridding 100 miles pain free, Bikotone sponsors UAE the number 1 team in the world, no doubt their products are premium and that goes for the price.
What kind of back problems did you have? I have unilateral discomfort and was wondering how to fix this other than strength and mobility which I have been dedicated to. I only get this pain in races during the high intensity
@ I had the same problem and used to do physical therapy, chiropractor until I switched to 160mm cranks, I barely stretch, strengthening the core and glutes solved my problem.
I just rode my 165mm cranks for the first time. They're mounted on my new bike, but because there was some delay my lbs lent me a 170mm crankset in the meantime. I can't tell the difference right away, even though I hope it will help me in the long run with tight psoas issues. I wouldn't replace the cranks on an existing bike though, unless your cranks are way too big for you.
Lovely bike! If I were to upgrade anything my first thing would be to get some thru-axles that don't have the handles on them, J&L on ebay are cheap and light. Then wheelset, saddle, maybe pulley cage, rotors, bottle cages. After that there's not much left.
Im 6'1" and usually use 172.5 on road. Got a good deal on some 170mm Ultegra cranks. Like them. Not necessarily better than the 172.5s but fine none the less. Wouldn't want to go shorter though.
The physio who made my bike fit recommended 160mm cranks because : - it's the best size for my inseam . - it will increase pedaling cadence which reduces extension in most joints. In my own humble experience, the investment in a bike fit gave me knowledge of how to tweak my settings to be best adjusted for my body, and also where to spend money and where to save. For a fraction of the price of the shown (cool but pricy) bottom bracket.
I need another 4w/kg on my Swift Alpe d'Huez (1,850 m) profile. Will the ceramic smoothness of this BB free up another 300-400 watts for lets say 1 hour?
Benefits of shorter cranks after using the for two years... which does NOT include speed: - Smaller pedal stroke = less wear-n-tear on your joints. - Less shoe / tire overlap. I wear a size 48 shoe, so this matters. - More pedal ground clearance when cornering... if you pedal through a corner. - Less weight... weight weenies rejoice! - Leg doesn't come as close to the chest on up stroke, allowing a lower position.
yea the really only negative I have heard from people who do like the shorter cranks are less top end power numbers for big sprints, like that first initial number from the leverage
I went from 172.5 to 170 and immediately liked the change. So I went to 165 and am not a fan and will be going back to 170. Everyone is different; leg length, power output, saddle height preference and fore and aft, nose down or up, etc. IMO going to 165 is not the golden ticket that everyone seems to be getting from RUclips. Another thing, I got on my indoor training bike with 172.5 cranks after getting used to 165s, and I had to get off and put my outdoor bike on the trainer, it was that bad...
its all preference for sure, alot of people see power drop offs going to smaller cranks or osme just do not like it, for me I really enjoyed it for my cadence and on the flats it works for my pedal motion, but this sport is all subjective
not this one exact but they make a blue version bsa for shimano bsa and it is ceramic this wil work www.bikone.com/producto/dctech-bsa_shimano-road-ceramic-uae/ and you can use the code gcperformance15 for 15 percent off too
Luckily, we are in the cycling technology age face it 30 years ago it was straight block 12-18 7 speeds with 53/42 chain rings, you had to use 175mm cranks just to ride lol
Kind of off point, but as I get older, I've been going to shorter cranks after using 172.5 for over 20 years. I'm now down to 160mm Ultegra cranks. The only 165mm cranks I could find on the at the tail end of the Pandemic was 105s. I use custom gearing with 46/33 chainrings (Spécialités TA). I wanted to see how much lighter 160mm Ultegra crank arms were than 165mm 105s. To my shock the 105 crank arms were 12 grams lighter. Obviously the weight difference Shimano lists between the two are made up in the chainrings. Also, just my theory, is that they beefed up the crankarms after the drama with corrosion, they did put a plug in so water can't go down the spindle. I'm loving the 160mm cranks & I'm 5' 9.5"!
The change from 172.5 to 165 is dramatic. You'll feel it right from the first pedal stroke and it may take a few days of riding to become accustomed to it. It is an advantage on a very steep seated climb where it will feel like you have one larger cog in the back.
Yes, shorter lever arm = less torque. If you ride at same power and cadence, you will need a harder gear. Basically makes all your gears a little easier. Lose the very top gear
not only for steep climbs but rotation riding on the flats I noticed right away as well, not as much range of motion so I felt fresher towards the end of the ride, mimimal movements so the muscles were being used more efficiently
@GCPerformance18,I did have 165mm crank arms by mistake on sram force D2, lucky to have this size without spending more $$$$,and thanks for the discount code that makes me decide to go with bikone because of the price after almost 3 months of thinking of which one I should go with!! Mine is DUB specific, lets hope it’ll be as the same level of shimano BB
Hybrid ceramic bearings: Contain ceramic balls and stainless steel rings or races. Full ceramic bearings: Contain ceramic balls and ceramic rings or races.
Speed: Hybrid bearings can run at higher speeds than full ceramic bearings because steel rings are more forgiving. Corrosion resistance: Full ceramic bearings are more resistant to corrosion than hybrid bearings. Temperature: Full ceramic bearings can handle extreme temperatures. Shock loads: Hybrid bearings can withstand shock loads better than full ceramic bearings. Lubrication: Full ceramic bearings can run without lubrication, but hybrid bearings need lubrication
i have a question `^ If you put smaller crankarms, (172.5 to 170) do you need to elevate your seat post ? And for this beautiful Madone, put some CRW in and tpu tube ^^ and Elilee crank arms ^^ All that stuff is easyly 1kg less ^^ Great Job CG, all my futur bike is calculated from your review and i'm really excited to have ^^ Thanks from Geneva Switzerland!
Basing your decision on what sponsored pro cyclists use is crazy. I agree with the shorter crank upgrade though. I hope he didn't chose 165mm just because of Pogi. Maybe 160mm is better for him, I don't know.
lmao everyone is entitled to what they believe, this sport has a good amount of strong opinionated folks, I deal with this on the consumer real world side in my store so I am use to it, I just roll with it, believe it if you like
Shorter cranks have pretty much _nothing_ to do with getting "faster." It's all about hip function and smoothness through the top of the pedal stroke + the obv. more aggressive position.
@GCPerformance18 when I switched (170 to 165), I noticed climbing was marginally harder, but it was easier to maintain a higher cadence. Either way, I hope he's enjoying his F-ing awesome bike!
His next add is a pair of ceramic pulley wheels. Also those Prelli tires are out of date.. the new RS is significantly better than the older model in both rolling resistance and tire grip
Most likely he'll have to raise the saddle 7.5mm. I tried 160mm cranks. Way to short. There was a massive dead spot in the revolution. Felt weird. I'm running 170's and those are perfect for me and my foot size.
I guess 165 mm is not for everyone (most people), and it takes forced adaptation by your body, like stretching and mobility exercises with joint exercises. And it took away torque obviously. So climbing may be harder.
Switching to 165mm cranksets probably didn't make me any faster, but they surely made me infinitely more comfortable. I no longer felt like I was kneeing my man-tits with every upward pedal stroke like I did with factory 170mm cranks. As for this whole ceramic bearing business, wake me up when prices come down to a level that's on par with good old steel bearings and they can last as long.
yea I am agreeing with you for sure I went form the 172.5 and I noticed I am fresher towards the end of the ride, my hips and lower back dont feel as worked because the range of motion for the ride is not as big as it use to be
Oh, look, it's buttery smooth, but only when it's free and not preloaded, then it's not buttery smooth anymore after preloading it. Thanks for the deception, mister! :)
@GCPerformance18 Then why does that spin at 23:56 look so bad and draggy after it's preloaded and the crank bolts are tightened? You showed how smooth it spins only when it was free and not relevant.
I seen to many pedals come off from people riding in my business, its always beter to go a little tighter people pedal weird, roads are bumpy, things can rattle loose, heavy riders can cause to loosen up, it is not fun
Is this a joke video? 5 mins in, and every single important shot has been deliberately blocked! The cameraman even comments that nothing can be seen, and yet the blocking and blocking continues…
Grant...i usually like your content but this is a no go! As a mechanical engineer i can say this.....the claims they make on that bb are BS. What are the seals on the OUTSIDE of housing supposed to protect? THERE IS NOTHING...its a solid housing, the bearings are on the inside! Angular bearings on a strait spindel....in a unibody housing, with a flat bearing cup....FFS🤣🤣🤣 Guess as long ppl like you promote overpriced crap like this, they will keep selling it... BTW....do the spin test AFTER you tighten the starnut.
It shouldn’t take an engineer to understand that a sealed bearing can also benefit from an additional external seal, look at anything Chris king makes.
most of the stuff in this industry you do not need to ride a bike or perform, this is youtube to show off new products and new ocmpanies will always come about with some kind of new tech they have, they seem like a nice company with solid product, but by all means you do not need ot buy anything and i am not telling eveyrone they need to buy it, I am showcasing a friend of mine who bought this stuff and we installed it after hours for fun
your test is absolutely non relevant because you test it without the final preload on the bearings... so obviously it spins freely. Like pretty much every BB. But at the end of the video we clearly see that once you tightened everything, it is not that smooth anymore. Pure logic. And one more thing : the lightest the grease in the bearings when cold, the minimal protection at high rotation on the rides. The grease is generally thicker when cold and gets lighter when pedalling. But a grease which is too light when cold is not ideal.
Really really impressed with this Bikone and there product they have been putting out, They are a company out of Spain and seem to be coming on strong with the Backing and support from Pro teams Like TEAM UAE and also Tadej himself riding there products is enough to have a strong advocate, If you are interested in any of there products check them out here
www.bikone.com/ and USE CODE: "GCPERFORMANCE15" for 15% off your total order!!! Enjoy the video.... Any questions let me know down in the comments.
@@GCPerformance18 Bro- Hambini has to be losing his mind over this!
Only riding can make you faster, any bike , any old stuff , any old parts.
Tbh not all cyclists care about riding faster. It’s also just as fun to enjoy riding an expensive bike even if you’re just ambling along slowly and chatting
I'm 5ft7 and have 105 172.5mm cranks. Love the torque power you get when accelerating and climbing. If I want to increase my cadence i simply shift to a lower gear and hit 90-100rpm no problem. Shorter cranks would make me less powerful so no need to change it.
A track racer will debate the "loss of power" short crank theory you propose
Oh wow this video came out at the perfect time. I literally just ordered 165 cranks for my Shimano 105 and they came today. I want to thank you for the video. Keep the great work up. 🤙🏻
Thanks so much!!! You are going to love it
400€ for BB? God damn, bike industry is overpriced as hell. People are the problem here, becasue they´ll buy that expensive products no matter what. That allows BM to go crazy with prices! Just do not buy expensive stuff and than BM would have to lower the prices. (excuse my grammar)
There is a large portion of cyclists that are mechanically stupid..they see videos like this and are led astray by ignorance/greed...just the title alone..Grant needs $..he knows damn well the BB isnt going to do NOTHING but break the bank..he knows better and there are channels that will speak the truth...a simple search on yourube will show 1.5 watts difference betewen the best and the worst BB..FRICTION FACTS DATA..just like oversized pulleys and ti nuts and bolts..its a fools game..pros run what the team gets the best deal on..the pog could win on a stock 105 BB..i can buy 7 new dura ace bb for one stupid looking BLUE BB..some of the blame also goes to the channel spreading ignorance...NO, these "upgrades" will NOT make you any faster..a pro bike fit, best shoes or shorts or a coach might
That is so not true. They make those expensive parts for the top level pros and will continue to do so whether average consumers buy them or not. And if there are people with enough money to spend on those top end parts that pros use, good for them.
As another commenter already mentioned: this is completely incorrect. The pros will always ride the top stuff. For the top premium level stuff, you will pay a premium price. Like any company that produces high end premium stuff, they will come with premium price tags. The problem isn't the company or the buyer- it's not a problem at all. You have a problem with it because you can't afford it. And that's not a company problem or a buyer problem. You aren't the target market.
GC Performance isnt forcing you to buy pro-level stuff
It’s not overpriced. People buy it. Just because you can’t afford something doesn’t mean it’s overpriced
Interested in this upgrade on my Allez Sprint. I was getting a creaking and my LBS recommended a new BB and crankset. Thanks for the video!
Find a new shop..get a wheels manufacturing or token if you have a press fit bb to stop creaking,,the cranks im sure are fine..shops take advantage of the uninformed sometimes ...ask questions..WHY do my cranks need replacing?greed ?
very nice
Beautiful job and what a fantastic BB. I have ceramic BB, not as good as that Bikone, but nonetheless I wouldn’t have BB now that isn’t ceramic. I also have 165mm pedals fitted and they too make a big difference and I agree provide a bio mechanical benefit. However, I have found sourcing 165mm cranks a total pain. They don’t seem to be readily available. It’s frustrating that bikes only come with standard 172.5mm cranks and in some cases you are hit up with the cost of full set of new cranks if you want 165mm.
These days if you buy a bike and you want to swap out the handlebars, the crank lengths, BB, saddle etc they all add ons on top of the full retail price of the bike. It’d be better when ordering a bike you had the choice of swapping stuff out in exchange for “optioning up”.
Look forward to hearing the customer’s feed back on the new cranks and especially the BB
yea it seems like a lot of the stock components ar eout dated and I made a video on this that thje handlebars and crank lengths are all old school widthys and lengths
Hey my old cranks! Love to see this!
lmao, one persons trash is another mans treasure lol
GC, you know that the little "fin" on the crank removal tool is to lift up the little safety clip ; )
🧐
nhaaa it's for removing dirt from under the nails!
hahahha of course lol, I am old school though lol
@GCPerformance18 same, i forget about it and use a screwdriver to 😄
I'm 6'2 riding a large frame canyon endurace. It came with 175mm cranks and when i went to get a bike fit, the fitter recomended me go with 165mm cranks. i was sceptical at first and was hesitant but after switching to shorter cranks my personal bests were sky rocketing on strava. it felt weird at first but i got used to them in a week or two. Plus I was able to get more aero on the bike I wasn't able to get that low without them. HIGHLY RECOMMEND you switch to shorter cranks
yea 165 all the way, I am 6 foot and I wont go back at all
I'm 5'5 and been using 160mm crank arms on my SL8 and Crux, for a year now and it has been the best choice for my back problems and hip flexors. I enjoy ridding 100 miles pain free, Bikotone sponsors UAE the number 1 team in the world, no doubt their products are premium and that goes for the price.
What kind of back problems did you have? I have unilateral discomfort and was wondering how to fix this other than strength and mobility which I have been dedicated to. I only get this pain in races during the high intensity
@ I had the same problem and used to do physical therapy, chiropractor until I switched to 160mm cranks, I barely stretch, strengthening the core and glutes solved my problem.
I just rode my 165mm cranks for the first time. They're mounted on my new bike, but because there was some delay my lbs lent me a 170mm crankset in the meantime. I can't tell the difference right away, even though I hope it will help me in the long run with tight psoas issues. I wouldn't replace the cranks on an existing bike though, unless your cranks are way too big for you.
Being 6 ft, been using 175 since the 80's ! I'll stick with my 175 cranks on my bikes, i have multi bikes.
I am 6 foot as well and I run the 165 cranksd
Lovely bike! If I were to upgrade anything my first thing would be to get some thru-axles that don't have the handles on them, J&L on ebay are cheap and light. Then wheelset, saddle, maybe pulley cage, rotors, bottle cages. After that there's not much left.
Im 6'1" and usually use 172.5 on road. Got a good deal on some 170mm Ultegra cranks. Like them. Not necessarily better than the 172.5s but fine none the less. Wouldn't want to go shorter though.
Yea, 170 is a great place to be at
The physio who made my bike fit recommended 160mm cranks because :
- it's the best size for my inseam .
- it will increase pedaling cadence which reduces extension in most joints.
In my own humble experience, the investment in a bike fit gave me knowledge of how to tweak my settings to be best adjusted for my body, and also where to spend money and where to save. For a fraction of the price of the shown (cool but pricy) bottom bracket.
I need another 4w/kg on my Swift Alpe d'Huez (1,850 m) profile. Will the ceramic smoothness of this BB free up another 300-400 watts for lets say 1 hour?
oh fuqing easily!!!
Interesting design. So it relies on highly precise machining at the taper between the drive and non drive side to eliminate any play.
Nice design.
May have forgotten the most important benefit of shorter cranks: they are lighter than their 172.5mm counterpart!
Really?
Going 165mm was a drastic bike fit improvement for me
For reals? Why don't we start riding one size smaller frame too?
@@mmfong297 do I need to write sarcasm or some sarcasm emoji?
no way!!!!!!!!!
I went to 155 cranks and love them. I ordered a set of 135 to see if will be better. Best part is all the cranks are carbon
yea I see some poeple going smaller, I think 165 si the sweet spot for me
I have 172.5 on one bike and 175 on the other bike and i prefer 175 😊
im telling you, give the 165 a shot, you might find yourself loving it
Benefits of shorter cranks after using the for two years... which does NOT include speed:
- Smaller pedal stroke = less wear-n-tear on your joints.
- Less shoe / tire overlap. I wear a size 48 shoe, so this matters.
- More pedal ground clearance when cornering... if you pedal through a corner.
- Less weight... weight weenies rejoice!
- Leg doesn't come as close to the chest on up stroke, allowing a lower position.
yea the really only negative I have heard from people who do like the shorter cranks are less top end power numbers for big sprints, like that first initial number from the leverage
I went from 172.5 to 170 and immediately liked the change. So I went to 165 and am not a fan and will be going back to 170. Everyone is different; leg length, power output, saddle height preference and fore and aft, nose down or up, etc. IMO going to 165 is not the golden ticket that everyone seems to be getting from RUclips. Another thing, I got on my indoor training bike with 172.5 cranks after getting used to 165s, and I had to get off and put my outdoor bike on the trainer, it was that bad...
its all preference for sure, alot of people see power drop offs going to smaller cranks or osme just do not like it, for me I really enjoyed it for my cadence and on the flats it works for my pedal motion, but this sport is all subjective
I have a CAAD 10, BB30, if I wanted to spend a little extra when I need a new BB what would be a good choice? Thx
I would recomend it for sure, but at your own choice, this bikone seem nice also nova is a great bb I have on my bike
super smooth ❤
Will this bb suit the s-works sl8 with shimano❓cheers
not this one exact but they make a blue version bsa for shimano bsa and it is ceramic
this wil work www.bikone.com/producto/dctech-bsa_shimano-road-ceramic-uae/
and you can use the code gcperformance15 for 15 percent off too
Luckily, we are in the cycling technology age face it 30 years ago it was straight block 12-18 7 speeds with 53/42 chain rings, you had to use 175mm cranks just to ride lol
Kind of off point, but as I get older, I've been going to shorter cranks after using 172.5 for over 20 years. I'm now down to 160mm Ultegra cranks. The only 165mm cranks I could find on the at the tail end of the Pandemic was 105s. I use custom gearing with 46/33 chainrings (Spécialités TA). I wanted to see how much lighter 160mm Ultegra crank arms were than 165mm 105s. To my shock the 105 crank arms were 12 grams lighter. Obviously the weight difference Shimano lists between the two are made up in the chainrings. Also, just my theory, is that they beefed up the crankarms after the drama with corrosion, they did put a plug in so water can't go down the spindle. I'm loving the 160mm cranks & I'm 5' 9.5"!
Will the be a video on the Dyno (?) BMX bike by the counter at the end of the video? 😉
hahaha a customer brought that in today, to kind of restore it, the tires are literally solid, like concrete
Jonas bucks new thinking and runs 172.5 cranks
very nice, i think hes on 170 for the last tour
The change from 172.5 to 165 is dramatic. You'll feel it right from the first pedal stroke and it may take a few days of riding to become accustomed to it. It is an advantage on a very steep seated climb where it will feel like you have one larger cog in the back.
Yes, shorter lever arm = less torque. If you ride at same power and cadence, you will need a harder gear.
Basically makes all your gears a little easier. Lose the very top gear
not only for steep climbs but rotation riding on the flats I noticed right away as well, not as much range of motion so I felt fresher towards the end of the ride, mimimal movements so the muscles were being used more efficiently
So i thought saddle height was measured from center crank to center saddle , why will his saddle height change ? Just curious
Because at the bottom of the pedal stroke, your foot now is 5mm higher than it was with 170mm cranks.
It is measured that way, but when there is change crank size it is not accurate!
cranks go smaller so you neeed to compensate for the smaller cranks at the top of the pedal stroke
I need ceramic bearings because my cadence is typically around 20,000 RPMs. I know, not typical but I'm extrordinary.
Hahahaha
@@GCPerformance18 sorry man I just had to
Going 165 really helped my hips and it gave me a better body position in the drops. Ceramic bearings would do nothing for me.
Same for me. Helped my lower back
@@GCPerformance18the Specialized Power Expert with Mirror Saddle was my other big fit improvement this year. I can stay on that bike all day now.
What is your opinion on dura ace cranks vs ultegra cranks?
What Yous?
I like the lookk durace but for efficent cost ukltegra works just great
Thanks. That where my heads at as well. Seems the weight savings for Dura ace cranks is not much.
@GCPerformance18,I did have 165mm crank arms by mistake on sram force D2, lucky to have this size without spending more $$$$,and thanks for the discount code that makes me decide to go with bikone because of the price after almost 3 months of thinking of which one I should go with!! Mine is DUB specific, lets hope it’ll be as the same level of shimano BB
very nice!! you are going to be thrilled by it, they offer great high quality
will this fit pinarello - dogma?
i like body upgrade too toxic upgrade lmao lmao
no this one will not that is italian thread bsa and it needs to be shimano
Just like an old square taper BB back in the day :)
Literally exactly the same just installed reverse lol
Are there Balls and cups ceramic or just the Balls?
Probably just the balls
Hybrid ceramic bearings: Contain ceramic balls and stainless steel rings or races.
Full ceramic bearings: Contain ceramic balls and ceramic rings or races.
Speed: Hybrid bearings can run at higher speeds than full ceramic bearings because steel rings are more forgiving.
Corrosion resistance: Full ceramic bearings are more resistant to corrosion than hybrid bearings.
Temperature: Full ceramic bearings can handle extreme temperatures.
Shock loads: Hybrid bearings can withstand shock loads better than full ceramic bearings.
Lubrication: Full ceramic bearings can run without lubrication, but hybrid bearings need lubrication
You could also use the same tool to remove the clip 😝
I'm playing the expert here 😂✌🏽
hahahhaha truth you are right
No , Jonas runs 172.5 cranks
I think he is 170
i have a question `^ If you put smaller crankarms, (172.5 to 170) do you need to elevate your seat post ?
And for this beautiful Madone, put some CRW in and tpu tube ^^ and Elilee crank arms ^^ All that stuff is easyly 1kg less ^^
Great Job CG, all my futur bike is calculated from your review and i'm really excited to have ^^
Thanks from Geneva Switzerland!
yes you do
Yep, you need to raise the seat to compensate
Can verify - yes, you need your raise your seat
yes you do
What is the weight of this bike?
I do not know now i think when we weighed it it was 17 close to 18 the wheels and tires are hevay
Basing your decision on what sponsored pro cyclists use is crazy.
I agree with the shorter crank upgrade though. I hope he didn't chose 165mm just because of Pogi. Maybe 160mm is better for him, I don't know.
lmao everyone is entitled to what they believe, this sport has a good amount of strong opinionated folks, I deal with this on the consumer real world side in my store so I am use to it, I just roll with it, believe it if you like
😂 I guess you're right. You don't want to anger your consumers and waste some good opportunities.
What size crank was he coming from?
172.5
what he said
@GCPerformance18 I recently went only to 170mm & I didn't feel much (after the first 1/2 hour) but my cadence went up about 10rpm
Do u do bike fits?
I am trained in it, but i stopped doing it and just recommended to fitter business
Shorter cranks have pretty much _nothing_ to do with getting "faster." It's all about hip function and smoothness through the top of the pedal stroke + the obv. more aggressive position.
yes in which should make the rider more efficent and fresher for longer rides and maybe faster as well
@GCPerformance18 when I switched (170 to 165), I noticed climbing was marginally harder, but it was easier to maintain a higher cadence. Either way, I hope he's enjoying his F-ing awesome bike!
It’s good to have options!!!! 😂
always good to have options lol
His next add is a pair of ceramic pulley wheels. Also those Prelli tires are out of date.. the new RS is significantly better than the older model in both rolling resistance and tire grip
Customer likes them
Take a drink any time he says “load”, “ball”, or “bottom”
lmao can I play too
Also want to try 165. Anyone know where you can buy the cranks on their own without the chain rings?
check ebay, this customer found them from ebay
@@GCPerformance18 Don't trust some random chinese sellers. too many fakes
Dude watched another of video. Why would someone living in Florida want the lightest bike around. In Colorado I get it
Who knows. It’s because it’s fun
...in order to _stimulate the economy_
🧐🙃
Most likely he'll have to raise the saddle 7.5mm. I tried 160mm cranks. Way to short. There was a massive dead spot in the revolution. Felt weird. I'm running 170's and those are perfect for me and my foot size.
thats about what he raised it too
Will These BIKE UPGRADES make you FASTER? No, YOU need EPO.!/?!
Until we can push 8.2 w/kg through our BB like Pogacar will we see any benefits.
Mind blowing. Dude averaged 530watt over La Redoute. Insane
where can I get epo, I am asking for a friend lol
Best upgrade I got was trading in the old hairdresser for the new one. I ended up shredded.
lmao I see that, I need to hop on some trt and stop being pegged by the mrs if you know what I mean
If his BB is that free I would’ve left it alone and spent the money on new kit or something
It’s always fun for upgrades. He kept the old bb for a spare
Short cranks…..the flavor of the month.
its been a flavor now for a year
I guess 165 mm is not for everyone (most people), and it takes forced adaptation by your body, like stretching and mobility exercises with joint exercises. And it took away torque obviously. So climbing may be harder.
its all preference this is the thing about the sport it is so subjective to what your body likes that there really is no right and wrong answer
Switching to 165mm cranksets probably didn't make me any faster, but they surely made me infinitely more comfortable. I no longer felt like I was kneeing my man-tits with every upward pedal stroke like I did with factory 170mm cranks.
As for this whole ceramic bearing business, wake me up when prices come down to a level that's on par with good old steel bearings and they can last as long.
yea I am agreeing with you for sure I went form the 172.5 and I noticed I am fresher towards the end of the ride, my hips and lower back dont feel as worked because the range of motion for the ride is not as big as it use to be
No!
yes
Dude close the bike shop and become a movie star.
Hahahaha
Well said bro.🤔
Buy shorter cranks because screw stretching 😂
Oh, look, it's buttery smooth, but only when it's free and not preloaded, then it's not buttery smooth anymore after preloading it. Thanks for the deception, mister! :)
not true, I can show you any bikes preloaded properly and have no drag
@GCPerformance18 Then why does that spin at 23:56 look so bad and draggy after it's preloaded and the crank bolts are tightened? You showed how smooth it spins only when it was free and not relevant.
Pogi FanBoy
Pro tip: pedals only need to be tightened just past hand tight. There's no reason to crank them down! It just makes taking them off so much harder.
I had a pedal fall off at 40kmh, slid down the road on my ass.
@goldenretriever6261 I didn't say don't tighten them, I just said they don't have to be cranked down hard.
I seen to many pedals come off from people riding in my business, its always beter to go a little tighter people pedal weird, roads are bumpy, things can rattle loose, heavy riders can cause to loosen up, it is not fun
@@rg807 that was my second crash. I think the first crash loosened the pedal somehow.
That is a non-Pro tip. 😂
Epo is cheaper and makes you realy faster🎉
I also think that.
hahahaha
Latest cycing fashion item
bahaha! I just placed an order for a 165mm crankset and BB w/ceramic bearings yesterday
thats awesome!!!
Is this a joke video? 5 mins in, and every single important shot has been deliberately blocked!
The cameraman even comments that nothing can be seen, and yet the blocking and blocking continues…
lmfao
Grant...i usually like your content but this is a no go!
As a mechanical engineer i can say this.....the claims they make on that bb are BS.
What are the seals on the OUTSIDE of housing supposed to protect? THERE IS NOTHING...its a solid housing, the bearings are on the inside!
Angular bearings on a strait spindel....in a unibody housing, with a flat bearing cup....FFS🤣🤣🤣
Guess as long ppl like you promote overpriced crap like this, they will keep selling it...
BTW....do the spin test AFTER you tighten the starnut.
It shouldn’t take an engineer to understand that a sealed bearing can also benefit from an additional external seal, look at anything Chris king makes.
@Michael-fi6ve that's my point..there is no additional seal for the bearings......but nice to see that you've tried to not understand 😉
most of the stuff in this industry you do not need to ride a bike or perform, this is youtube to show off new products and new ocmpanies will always come about with some kind of new tech they have, they seem like a nice company with solid product, but by all means you do not need ot buy anything and i am not telling eveyrone they need to buy it, I am showcasing a friend of mine who bought this stuff and we installed it after hours for fun
:)
your test is absolutely non relevant because you test it without the final preload on the bearings... so obviously it spins freely. Like pretty much every BB. But at the end of the video we clearly see that once you tightened everything, it is not that smooth anymore. Pure logic. And one more thing : the lightest the grease in the bearings when cold, the minimal protection at high rotation on the rides. The grease is generally thicker when cold and gets lighter when pedalling. But a grease which is too light when cold is not ideal.
Ceramic anything on a bike is a useless "upgrade" and stupid expensive
Pls get Ur videographer to disable recording in HDR pls. Lol. It hurts the eyes
Cyclists love to throw money away. 😂😂😂🤡
lol true
He went to 165's because it is trendy and cyclist are like sheep.
Nothing more.
Got em
How can anyone chose those Ugly ass matte gray Ultegra crank for replacement? Those are the worst looking cranks I've ever seen
Your opinions must be facts.
Ugly?
its all up to peoples choices here so its osmehting he likes
Nice bike 🏍 👍 👌 165 crank feedback from Doug would be appreciated. Thanks 😊 🫂
hell yea I will do a community post after a couple rides