13:19 When someone says “My raw photos are straight out of camera, no editing!” what they’re really saying is they let the color and tonal qualities of their “art” be decided not by the photographer, but by the corporate technical teams who designed the default looks of the camera hardware and the raw processing software. Those who edit understand that instead of settling for some defaults that faraway engineers decided was right, we will take creative control and responsibility for how our personal work looks.
I fully agree with the comments below. An additional benefit for me was to realize that parts of my images were unnecessary and that I need additional cropping.
An exceptional video covering colour control in a way I've not seen anywhere else. Thank you. (Might be late watching your next video as I revisit past colour decisions in my image library!) A real masterclass.
i always found color management the most difficult part of photo editting, but with these techiques, I’ll probably mess up my colors a lot less. thanks for sharing this gold mine, Blake!
This tutorial is really good stuff to add into my knowledge. I was having problem with Creating focus in my work. Eventhough I matched color perfectly, they always look flat. This trick might me a good guide for me to improve further. I use COLOR and LUMINOSITY BLENDING MODES for color adjustment in my Photomanipulation. If you turn it into COLOR blending mode, it will show the image in a grayscale version. Then mostly using the EXPOSER adjustment layer I can easily adjust the brightness of two images. and the after that I change the 50%Grey Layer into LUMINOSITY Blending mode, by this I can compare their Saturation and Adjust it.
We have been teaching these principles in our NPPE Masterclass program for sometime and it was a joy to have you present and explain this information with this great value-added tutorial. Well done and I also agree that if you want to work with images only from your camera-- then good luck with your post modernist theory of color nihilism!
Thanks for another great video. I just tried it on one of my waterfall images, that was very similar to the one you used. My white water was way to blue and I didn't notice until I tried your method. I was able to make a solid improvement to the image. Thanks again!
Wow! I mean Wow! I just tried this on a photo that I thought was really great and it brought out a whole new fantastic look. What I thought was white fur was part green and cyan. The face was not nearly as punchy as I thought until I brought the colors up. Wow! Thank you for this video.
A great "how to" video. I do way too many photos per shoot to do this, however, I think this would be great my IG posts to push color in a way RAW processing does not. I've noticed that there is a shift from what I see with the exported picture on the computer to the one on IG after I post. Looking forward to giving this a try.
Gracias Blake, conozco muy bien la teoría del color pero con tus tutoriales, tan bien explicados, aprendí a aplicarla en Photoshop. Te sigo en tu canal, atento a todo lo que compartes. Saludos desde el norte de Argentina 👍👍
Reminds me of a technique I've learned long time ago, which I think was dubbed as "Adaptive contrast" and it involved using 50% gray layer and the "Calculations" command in the Image menu (I wonder if this command still exists in newer versions of PS). I wonder though if you have any more ideas to use that command for creative purposes?
Excellent!! This is so helpful for an area I constantly struggle with. I wish you had shown a dark image, like a Milky Way shot. I’m pretty sure almost all the image would be below 128. Perhaps I could use a darker delineating layer (96, 96, 96, for instance).
If you change the picture-mode to Lab an disable the L- channel, you will see the same (almost): BUT you have two channels seperate! May be an extra possibility?
It's very possible. That's the exact same thing as a grey layer set to luminance. I built this because I don't want to go into Lab in the middle of my workflow. I don't like switching modes because you lose adjustment layers. With this method we lose nothing but gain the color information.
Good concept which gave me some other ideas. So I had to look up the grayscale values for the zone system. I'll paste what I found and please correct me if I'm wrong. For example, I know that the video black test pattern is RGB 16-16-16 and that the 100% gray test pattern is RBG 235-235-235. Some variance on monitor verses print. photo black = RGB 0-0-0 video black (0% gray) = RGB 16-16-16 10% gray = RGB 38-38-38 20% gray = RGB 59-59-59 30% gray = RGB 81-81-81 40% gray = RGB 103-103-103 50% gray = RGB 128-128-128 60% gray = RGB 147-147-147 70% gray = RGB 168-168-168 80% gray = RGB 191-191-191 90% gray = RGB 212-212-212 100% gray = RGB 235-235-235 or 256-256-256🕵 I was given those numbers but they were incorrect and I've had to correct 5 which you correctly gave. Bing and Chatgpt don't know.
@@f64Academy I don't think these are the same matching values to zone system. Tried to find it on the web and this was the closest I could find. Do you have the others in your notes.
@@friendfortheartists I could use my test swatch to find them, but I don't know what the application is other than seeing what colors are above or below a tonal value and I think that may be looking too far into it, in my opinion.
@@f64Academy The first thing I'm looking for is the exact values at each zone in RBG. It would help me insure my eyes aren't giving me the wrong perception perhaps to push a value in one zone to another. Also low key and high key photos or paintings could be adjusted or evaluated against what I'm seeing. Kind of the idea of finding truest black you can find but applying it to each value in a precise way. Mostly to insure judgements are correct and adjacent values aren't influencing my perceptions.
It's kind of like that. It's the separation of color from luminosity without using lab which will affect your workflow. This keeps that separation in RGB so you don't have to switch modes and lose layers/adjustment layers. But yes, very much the same concept.
I wonder if Adobe is aware of your level of nerdish tweakery. It would be like you buying a pickup truck and then the Ford reps see a YT video where you get the thing to fly by using the e-brake while opening the glove box and putting the wipers on level 2 intermittent. Mind. Blown. As. Usual.
no, I dont buy it. Hey; I do understand it perfectly though (and well explained), but today (if that changes I plan to correct it here) I find it about as helpful as if I was told to improove walk or climbing through proper use of spirit levels... That could be proved.
I think when you need this knowledge you'll know its importance. I hate to say it that way, but people who don't find this fascinating and helpful don't truly understand color and the importance of knowing the colors in their image. It's more of an advanced concept that can lead to profound ah ha moments.
13:19 When someone says “My raw photos are straight out of camera, no editing!” what they’re really saying is they let the color and tonal qualities of their “art” be decided not by the photographer, but by the corporate technical teams who designed the default looks of the camera hardware and the raw processing software.
Those who edit understand that instead of settling for some defaults that faraway engineers decided was right, we will take creative control and responsibility for how our personal work looks.
Translation, they lack proper knowledge and prefer to be lazy with their art 🤣🤣🤣
Excellent tool to evaluate color and perfect timing! THANK YOU!!!!
One of the best I've come up with in my workflow 😁
This method for gaining insight into the color info of a photo is fantastic. Your color-centric videos have their own playlist in my account!
That's so cool! I'm honored 😁
One of the best your tutorials Blake! It is extremely useful and handy for evaluating colors and saturation in images. Great job! 👍
That's awesome! Thank you!
❤❤Yes!
This one is a MUST watch and put into your workflow. Thanks Blake.
Yep 😁 already on it!
This is deep. love it . Good to see colors from different angles
Glad you see value in it 😁
I fully agree with the comments below. An additional benefit for me was to realize that parts of my images were unnecessary and that I need additional cropping.
That's a good way to use it too!
Master is here again🔥
Aw thanks! I just experiment a lot and report what I find :)
Blake you continue to amaze. This one is beyond brilliant.
😁 thanks! I really appreciate it! I just report my findings 😁
@@f64Academy What Phil said!
An exceptional video covering colour control in a way I've not seen anywhere else. Thank you. (Might be late watching your next video as I revisit past colour decisions in my image library!) A real masterclass.
Thank you so much 😁 enjoy going through your photos 😁
I feel exactly the same. I've never been told this stuff before. So valuable. Thank you, Blake!
Oooh, I can see this will also work for helping me in planning better oil paintings. Thank you!
Yes! I use it in my miniature model painting too!
i always found color management the most difficult part of photo editting, but with these techiques, I’ll probably mess up my colors a lot less.
thanks for sharing this gold mine,
Blake!
That's what it's all about 😁
Very helpful, as always, Blake. Thank you!
😁
wow There is always something new to learn ... great love it
Thank you! Cheers!
As a color blind photographer, these are the hidden gems that I'm looking for to make post-processing life easier. Cheers!
That's great to hear this helps!
Great information. I'll watch it several times!
Woohoo!
This is very interesting and could be very helpful. Thank you very much Blake for pointing out.
Absolutely! I'm glad you think so!
Wow! This is absolutely incredible advice. Never seen this before! So well explained! Thank you
Thanks! I've never seen it either, happy experimental accidents 😁
Great information , Practical .Thanks
My pleasure!
This is awesome, Blake! Thank you so much for sharing this.
Best regards from Rio de Janeiro/Brazil.
Absolutely!
Again you amaze! Excellent content and presentation.
Thank you 😁 I really appreciate it!
Blake - thanks for a useful and practical aid in dealing with color 😊😊
My pleasure!
Loved it I like your channel so much I even watched a commercial for you.
Yes!!!!!! Thanks 😉 be sure to subscribe 😁
This tutorial is really good stuff to add into my knowledge. I was having problem with Creating focus in my work. Eventhough I matched color perfectly, they always look flat. This trick might me a good guide for me to improve further.
I use COLOR and LUMINOSITY BLENDING MODES for color adjustment in my Photomanipulation.
If you turn it into COLOR blending mode, it will show the image in a grayscale version. Then mostly using the EXPOSER adjustment layer I can easily adjust the brightness of two images.
and the after that I change the 50%Grey Layer into LUMINOSITY Blending mode, by this I can compare their Saturation and Adjust it.
As per usual another master class very clever and i notice you have a new panel in your tools there looking forward to hearing about that as well
😁 it's a good one! I'm still putting everything together, it'll be a while though
We have been teaching these principles in our NPPE Masterclass program for sometime and it was a joy to have you present and explain this information with this great value-added tutorial. Well done and I also agree that if you want to work with images only from your camera-- then good luck with your post modernist theory of color nihilism!
AWESOME!!! Thank you, Blake
😁 my pleasure!
Very helpful tutorial as always! It will definitely help me with my future editing works! Thank you so much Blake!
My pleasure! Glad you pulled some good stuff from it 😁
@@f64Academy Always! God bless you Blake!
Great and important video, Mr. Master of Psychology.
😁 thanks, glad you like it!
Невероятно! Большое спасибо!!! Такое простое решение такой сложной проблемы!
Great one!
Thank you 😁
Best video on RUclips
Excellent work.
Thank you😁
Thanks for another great video. I just tried it on one of my waterfall images, that was very similar to the one you used. My white water was way to blue and I didn't notice until I tried your method. I was able to make a solid improvement to the image. Thanks again!
Awesome! So glad to hear it. I like that you experimented with it.
Best video ever made
Than you 😁
Wow! I mean Wow! I just tried this on a photo that I thought was really great and it brought out a whole new fantastic look. What I thought was white fur was part green and cyan. The face was not nearly as punchy as I thought until I brought the colors up. Wow!
Thank you for this video.
Awesome to hear! Heck yes! That's incredible 😁
A great "how to" video. I do way too many photos per shoot to do this, however, I think this would be great my IG posts to push color in a way RAW processing does not. I've noticed that there is a shift from what I see with the exported picture on the computer to the one on IG after I post. Looking forward to giving this a try.
Definitely not for batch processing. I mean you could make an action for it, but to do this for 100 event photos isn't the best course of action 🤣
Great video man! Maybe try using this to get my insta grid more coherent
I like that ! Thanks for stopping by!
This is excellent!
Thanks! :)
Thank you 😁
Gracias Blake, conozco muy bien la teoría del color pero con tus tutoriales, tan bien explicados, aprendí a aplicarla en Photoshop. Te sigo en tu canal, atento a todo lo que compartes. Saludos desde el norte de Argentina 👍👍
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you, very helpful. I'd just like to add that darker tones are not necessarily less dominant than lighter tones.
Right, it's completely image specific. But for the most part, lighter tones and colors are more prominent to the eye at first glance.
This is very interesting, I would like to see how you edit the waterfall photo
Thank you
In time 😁 I'm releasing that workflow in a new panel within the next 6 months.
Reminds me of a technique I've learned long time ago, which I think was dubbed as "Adaptive contrast" and it involved using 50% gray layer and the "Calculations" command in the Image menu (I wonder if this command still exists in newer versions of PS). I wonder though if you have any more ideas to use that command for creative purposes?
Interesting. I may have to look into that.
Excellent!! This is so helpful for an area I constantly struggle with. I wish you had shown a dark image, like a Milky Way shot. I’m pretty sure almost all the image would be below 128. Perhaps I could use a darker delineating layer (96, 96, 96, for instance).
Experiment with it, I can't show everything... Yes it will be primarily dark color, but the most dominant light color will pull the viewer in.
Another great tutorial Blake! How would you like this moniker: The Color King
I mean I wouldn't turn it down, but I feel like I'm still a color peasant most of the time 🤣
@@f64Academy Hahahaha!! That's hilarious Blake. I'm by far more of a color peasant than you! But I'm making progress thanks to you. 😎
@@TC_Conner we all learn together 😁
If you change the picture-mode to Lab an disable the L- channel, you will see the same (almost): BUT you have two channels seperate! May be an extra possibility?
It's very possible. That's the exact same thing as a grey layer set to luminance. I built this because I don't want to go into Lab in the middle of my workflow. I don't like switching modes because you lose adjustment layers. With this method we lose nothing but gain the color information.
Is that 10 point tonal bar you use something we can access or is that a teaching tool of yours? I'd like to see it on my photos.
Just a teaching tool
Fantastic
Good concept which gave me some other ideas. So I had to look up the grayscale values for the zone system. I'll paste what I found and please correct me if I'm wrong.
For example, I know that the video black test pattern is RGB 16-16-16 and that the 100% gray test pattern is RBG 235-235-235. Some variance on monitor verses print.
photo black = RGB 0-0-0
video black (0% gray) = RGB 16-16-16
10% gray = RGB 38-38-38
20% gray = RGB 59-59-59
30% gray = RGB 81-81-81
40% gray = RGB 103-103-103
50% gray = RGB 128-128-128
60% gray = RGB 147-147-147
70% gray = RGB 168-168-168
80% gray = RGB 191-191-191
90% gray = RGB 212-212-212
100% gray = RGB 235-235-235 or 256-256-256🕵
I was given those numbers but they were incorrect and I've had to correct 5 which you correctly gave. Bing and Chatgpt don't know.
Good thinking. I'd have to experiment to really see it's application.
@@f64Academy I don't think these are the same matching values to zone system. Tried to find it on the web and this was the closest I could find. Do you have the others in your notes.
@@friendfortheartists I could use my test swatch to find them, but I don't know what the application is other than seeing what colors are above or below a tonal value and I think that may be looking too far into it, in my opinion.
@@f64Academy The first thing I'm looking for is the exact values at each zone in RBG. It would help me insure my eyes aren't giving me the wrong perception perhaps to push a value in one zone to another. Also low key and high key photos or paintings could be adjusted or evaluated against what I'm seeing. Kind of the idea of finding truest black you can find but applying it to each value in a precise way. Mostly to insure judgements are correct and adjacent values aren't influencing my perceptions.
Each zone is approximately 23 pixels, 255/11 gives you about 23 so zone 0 into zone 1 would be 23R 23G 23B. Then every zone after that just add 23 to.
Great job Blake! Could this technique become some additional buttons in the Zone System palatte map tab? :)
Maybe, I might have a new place for it though.
Where can i find this adjustment for adobe Lightroom?
It's not in Lightroom
Cảm ơn Anh rất nhiều
HaaaHa! still hilarious, fam. "Here's your prize"....classic.
😎
If you press 50 on the brightness it will 128 on all others
Blake...I like it! 🏳🌈
😁 thank you!
Looks like Lab mode to me.
It's kind of like that. It's the separation of color from luminosity without using lab which will affect your workflow. This keeps that separation in RGB so you don't have to switch modes and lose layers/adjustment layers. But yes, very much the same concept.
I wonder if Adobe is aware of your level of nerdish tweakery. It would be like you buying a pickup truck and then the Ford reps see a YT video where you get the thing to fly by using the e-brake while opening the glove box and putting the wipers on level 2 intermittent. Mind. Blown. As. Usual.
Hahaha! I love that! Adobe doesn't even know my name 🤣
Good for you😂…Here’s your price 👍🏽
My price?
Hummmm
no, I dont buy it. Hey; I do understand it perfectly though (and well explained), but today (if that changes I plan to correct it here) I find it about as helpful as if I was told to improove walk or climbing through proper use of spirit levels... That could be proved.
I think when you need this knowledge you'll know its importance. I hate to say it that way, but people who don't find this fascinating and helpful don't truly understand color and the importance of knowing the colors in their image. It's more of an advanced concept that can lead to profound ah ha moments.
@@f64Academy I saw this coming.
@@AR-vf7vg there may come a time when you remember this and say, I know why he said that now!
@@f64Academy Even that I mentioned also.