Watched this video before changing the alt on my brothers. You absolutely shouldn’t remove the motor mount as there is no reason(no offense). The alt fit perfectly underneath the upper rad hose( I personally just opened the rad cap and squeezed the hose, then closed the cap to make it more flexible to move the alt under). But it fits under no problem. As for the tensioner, I personally had to tighten it while it was running to get it perfect, then turn the car off and clamp all 3 bolts. Thanks for the vid
removing the engine mount is optional it's alot easier to remove the coolant res it slipped out for me no prob and i had tons of room to get the bottom bolt out
Samuel lopes so true Mom always taught me work smart not hard and he is working to hard. It's easier to just take the hose off put a little small bucket under it to catch the antifreeze and then take the alternator out and put the new one in put the hose back on and re top with more antifreeze because you won't loose all your antifreeze from that top hose anyways.
Removing hose would of saved you tons of time....and if you are charging by the hour, it's not like the customer is there looking lol....good video tho, tons of help thanks to you
Hey 50s kid big fan of you! Shout out to your good work and teaching! I need your help /advice my 99 Nissan Altima won't turn on or crank no LIGHTS COME OUT ON MY DASH NOR DOES IT MAKE ANY CLICK BY THE FUSE BOXES. WHAT CAN IT BE PLEASE LMK PLEASE 🙏😊@50S KID
my alternator starts at around 13.8 then slowly starts going down 13.7 , 13.6 etc with the radio and everything off . its a new alternator but I don't think its working the way it should never goes up to 14.5 . do you think I need a new one or any other things I could check ?
What does your battery read when the car is off? Usually alternators are voltage regulated to be 2 volts higher than the battery, so 12.5 = 14.5. If your battery is 11.8, it may not be bad. Charge your battery up until it's at 12.6 after taking off the surface charge and then recheck the alternator.
ya i have done that already and get the same thing and if i load it with everything on it drops below 12v and doesn't go back up that's why i think its the alternator but its new so i don't know if maybe i got a bad one from store and with the battery voltage it will start at 12.5 but starts going down the more and longer the battery is used until the car wont even start because the batterys dead
Check the alternator connections for corrosion, also check the battery connections for corrosion. Including where the negative cable connects to the engine and frame. If you find corrosion, sand it off with sandpaper until you have bright shiny copper.
Thanks for the video +50skid! Saved me a bunch of $$ for sure. There was some collateral damage - broke the coolant temperature switch terminal since it is part of the same harness. How tight should the belt be? Is there a torque spec for it or some other method for checking?
I broke the same switch myself at some point. I usually make the belts tight enough that I can twist them 1/4 around in the middle of the longest span, no more, no less.
It's kind of a feel thing--it's hard to explain. The belt should deflect about an inch at it's widest point. Another way to tell is to twist the belt--you should be able to twist it 90 degrees but not more or less.
Yeah I fixed them by the time I did my timing chain video series on this car. Some guy (me) had stripped them out (me) years back before he really knew anything about cars (me).
+50sKid it doesn't take much, I've got one weak thread on mine that I'll have to helicoil if I ever remove it again (and while I've broken or stripped my share of bolts, this one isn't my victim. It was already that way when I pulled the valve cover to replace the leaking gasket). I'll have to look up you're timing video sounds like a good watch. I feel for you on that job, just looking at it looks like a bad day. This is from someone who did a 2.5l ford probe timing belt in an afternoon. ;).
Watched this video before changing the alt on my brothers. You absolutely shouldn’t remove the motor mount as there is no reason(no offense). The alt fit perfectly underneath the upper rad hose( I personally just opened the rad cap and squeezed the hose, then closed the cap to make it more flexible to move the alt under). But it fits under no problem. As for the tensioner, I personally had to tighten it while it was running to get it perfect, then turn the car off and clamp all 3 bolts. Thanks for the vid
removing the engine mount is optional it's alot easier to remove the coolant res it slipped out for me no prob and i had tons of room to get the bottom bolt out
That is the easiest and proper way, unless one fears spilling some coolant liquid.
yours was the most detailed explanation, which gave me the. confidence to handle, but I removed one end of the hose. thanks so much
I just did the same job two days ago without removing any brackets or hoses.
Wow that engine is clean for its age. Nice video.
Slide the resivoir out. Alt will come right out.
Wow ,I wasn't too sure if it would work ,but I did as you said and it worked 👍
Awesome video just did mine only had 3 screws and a radiator hose and battery cable learned alot from your video thanks.....
I think in the end it would have been easier to just remove the radiator hose and reservice it...lol
👍😳
Thanks a lot my friend it helped me alot.
Great video is there a way I can remove the alternator without removing the mounting or the hose? please advise thanks
i think taking the hose off would have been way easier lol .....
samuel lopes I totally agree, When he started talking about removing bracket, I said hose it is, as some antifreeze and that's that
Samuel lopes so true Mom always taught me work smart not hard and he is working to hard. It's easier to just take the hose off put a little small bucket under it to catch the antifreeze and then take the alternator out and put the new one in put the hose back on and re top with more antifreeze because you won't loose all your antifreeze from that top hose anyways.
I've done this twice, taking the hose is the best move. 1 hour job tops.
You don’t need to remove the hose.
If the coolant went into the alternator would it ruin it
Removing hose would of saved you tons of time....and if you are charging by the hour, it's not like the customer is there looking lol....good video tho, tons of help thanks to you
I do have one question the one connection that you didn’t take off cause it was all Gooey what is that called cause mine broke
I cant seem to find the right one for my 99 tried 4 different year models all dont fit dont know were to find the right one
Very helpful, thank you!
My biggest question is how to get the belt tensioned putting it back on. I can’t get mine to tighten maybe I need a new belt?
All that cause you don't want to remove 1 hose?
Right lol, but also he probably charges per hour for labor.
not only my alternator went out but the wiring blow with it. I got a new alternator but none of the electrical wiring where do I get those?
I've taken all the bolts out, it's wiggles and moves back and forth but won't come, any idea why?
Hey 50s kid big fan of you!
Shout out to your good work and teaching!
I need your help /advice my 99 Nissan Altima won't turn on or crank no LIGHTS COME OUT ON MY DASH NOR DOES IT MAKE ANY CLICK BY THE FUSE BOXES.
WHAT CAN IT BE PLEASE LMK PLEASE 🙏😊@50S KID
my alternator starts at around 13.8 then slowly starts going down 13.7 , 13.6 etc with the radio and everything off . its a new alternator but I don't think its working the way it should never goes up to 14.5 . do you think I need a new one or any other things I could check ?
What does your battery read when the car is off? Usually alternators are voltage regulated to be 2 volts higher than the battery, so 12.5 = 14.5. If your battery is 11.8, it may not be bad. Charge your battery up until it's at 12.6 after taking off the surface charge and then recheck the alternator.
ya i have done that already and get the same thing and if i load it with everything on it drops below 12v and doesn't go back up that's why i think its the alternator but its new so i don't know if maybe i got a bad one from store and with the battery voltage it will start at 12.5 but starts going down the more and longer the battery is used until the car wont even start because the batterys dead
Check the alternator connections for corrosion, also check the battery connections for corrosion. Including where the negative cable connects to the engine and frame. If you find corrosion, sand it off with sandpaper until you have bright shiny copper.
all the connections are clean and good . also the voltage drops even lower when the cars in drive and iam at a stop until i give gas .
That sounds like it's just based on the throttle. Check what rpm your engine should be at when running and in park/neutral.
Thanks for the video +50skid! Saved me a bunch of $$ for sure. There was some collateral damage - broke the coolant temperature switch terminal since it is part of the same harness. How tight should the belt be? Is there a torque spec for it or some other method for checking?
I broke the same switch myself at some point. I usually make the belts tight enough that I can twist them 1/4 around in the middle of the longest span, no more, no less.
find the longest part of the belt, and you should only be able to twist it exactly 90 degrees. No less no more
I need to know the name of the part that you were going to disconnect but you didn't. because is glue. Need that part
Wat is that part my just broke
Thanks for sharing this with me
I have friend trying to change their alternator but both bolts are stripped and rounded
Any ways you got in mind to remove em
if I take the radiator hose off can I just reservice it?
Sure. Whatever way is easiest for you is the right way to go. ;-)
Sliding the coolant reservoir was wayyyyy easier.
Hey! I really appreciate the video. It just helped me with my first car. I do have a question tho, how tight should I re-tension the belt?
It's kind of a feel thing--it's hard to explain. The belt should deflect about an inch at it's widest point. Another way to tell is to twist the belt--you should be able to twist it 90 degrees but not more or less.
Thank you so much!
I did notice though you're missing a couple valve cover bolts. :)
Yeah I fixed them by the time I did my timing chain video series on this car. Some guy (me) had stripped them out (me) years back before he really knew anything about cars (me).
+50sKid it doesn't take much, I've got one weak thread on mine that I'll have to helicoil if I ever remove it again (and while I've broken or stripped my share of bolts, this one isn't my victim. It was already that way when I pulled the valve cover to replace the leaking gasket). I'll have to look up you're timing video sounds like a good watch. I feel for you on that job, just looking at it looks like a bad day. This is from someone who did a 2.5l ford probe timing belt in an afternoon. ;).
Damn these tiny cars with no room to work!
+50sKid yes sir!
Lol he hates the Nissan cuz they are difficult to work with but all had to do is remove the hose and take it out then top off the fluids again 🤣
Freaking cars.. You have to take shit out you don't want to!!!! It shouldn't have to. But the way they make them... SMH