Thanks for confirming that squaring the fence to the cut works, makes sense. That five cut method is above my pay grade, I understand the concept but the potential movement in the wood could negate any micro adjustment made. I’m sticking to the cut to the fence & if that fails there’s always wood filler.
First time viewer. Appreciate your take on wood and perfection as I’m a beginner who gets nothing perfect lol. I’m going out of my mind trying to square my newly build sled but you said that if the error is negative you pivot the sled towards you and positive away. Other vids I’ve seen says the opposite. Can you please clarify? Thanks
@samh9072 honesty I'm not an expert on that method and was confusing myself trying to do it. There's some much better videos out there on that. And there's holes in the math that I didn't want to go into. The square was the best method for me.
Ok. I asked because when I have a negative error and when I followed other vids the error got larger leading me to believe maybe you are right and they are wrong. Like I said a beginner here just making a mess of things lol
@samh9072 LOL. Well, go with what works. It did work for me that way but I was just out to 4 decimal places so I didn't have any need to actually move it. You'll get to a point eventually where you know what's good and stop sweating it too much. But you're also going to be your own worst critic too. I still pick my work apart 20+ years in.
Tom McLaughlin on Epic Woodworking channel has a three cut method that’s easy snd accurate. I’ve had success with hard maple runners when I’m careful about getting nice straight grain. Good looking sled.
I've seen a 2, 3 and 5 cut methods and they all work for sure. I've just always thought using the square to square things up was about as easy as it gets and wanted to put it up against the most popular, and complicated method I had seen. I've always had issues with the wooden runners in the past but honestly, this is the first year round conditioned shop that I've had so shrinking and swelling may not be as big of a deal as it was. And if you push one tight left and one tight right you should be good even if it's sloppy. The pieces that catches the t slot and hold it down are really my favorite part of the aluminum ones since more than half this sled will be off the saw if I pull it all the way back. Thanks for watching! Hope you found some value in it.
Thanks for confirming that squaring the fence to the cut works, makes sense. That five cut method is above my pay grade, I understand the concept but the potential movement in the wood could negate any micro adjustment made. I’m sticking to the cut to the fence & if that fails there’s always wood filler.
@paulmannix1760 Definitely overcomplicating a simple task in my opinion.
Awesome. Appreciate your take on the 5 cut method and that it's sometimes overkill.
Great tutorial.
I figured most of us spend a lot of money on good squares so why can't we just use them? It's worked for me for 25 years.
Thanks for watching!
New subscriber here!
Nice build. I'm definitely going to build a sled for my saw. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this.
Thanks for the sub! Glad you found the video helpful.
Great Video! Doesn’t get much more accurate than that!!!
Thank you! I thought it was pretty close. LOL.
First time viewer. Appreciate your take on wood and perfection as I’m a beginner who gets nothing perfect lol. I’m going out of my mind trying to square my newly build sled but you said that if the error is negative you pivot the sled towards you and positive away. Other vids I’ve seen says the opposite. Can you please clarify? Thanks
@samh9072 honesty I'm not an expert on that method and was confusing myself trying to do it. There's some much better videos out there on that. And there's holes in the math that I didn't want to go into. The square was the best method for me.
Ok. I asked because when I have a negative error and when I followed other vids the error got larger leading me to believe maybe you are right and they are wrong. Like I said a beginner here just making a mess of things lol
@samh9072 LOL. Well, go with what works. It did work for me that way but I was just out to 4 decimal places so I didn't have any need to actually move it.
You'll get to a point eventually where you know what's good and stop sweating it too much. But you're also going to be your own worst critic too. I still pick my work apart 20+ years in.
Appreciate your input
@@samh9072 Anytime 👍
Tom McLaughlin on Epic Woodworking channel has a three cut method that’s easy snd accurate. I’ve had success with hard maple runners when I’m careful about getting nice straight grain. Good looking sled.
I've seen a 2, 3 and 5 cut methods and they all work for sure. I've just always thought using the square to square things up was about as easy as it gets and wanted to put it up against the most popular, and complicated method I had seen.
I've always had issues with the wooden runners in the past but honestly, this is the first year round conditioned shop that I've had so shrinking and swelling may not be as big of a deal as it was. And if you push one tight left and one tight right you should be good even if it's sloppy. The pieces that catches the t slot and hold it down are really my favorite part of the aluminum ones since more than half this sled will be off the saw if I pull it all the way back.
Thanks for watching! Hope you found some value in it.