I really love how honest and straight-up you are about everything. I just bought a T300 RS GT with pedals that was mainly influenced by watching your channel so I just wanna say thanks for making great content!
It’s probably awhile ago you made this, but I’ve been searching high and low for something clear & concise to help set up my TM kit in dirt 2.0. This, was perfect. Recommended to me by a chap in the “Barrel Rollers” Club. Oh and you swear like a Chef, which I am, so that gave me quite a chuckle.. Cheers mate, job well done. Will recommend to others for sure.
Thanks for your post brother. I found out what many of those settings in 2.0 are for finally. Now I feel bad that I never made the minimal effort to learn what these settings were actually for. ;-) I replaced my 18yr old Logitech FFB wheel & pedals(way before 3 pedal sets were a thing) with a Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition. Wow,what a difference! Using many of your settings along with a few personal tweaks, Dirt 2 has nefer felt better. Thanks again brotherman. Peace
Hey Karl, I just got my first wheel and its the Thrustmaster t150, watched this vid to set it up and buying this wheel was the best purchase I have made for gaming. Ive watched a ton of your vids and you inspired me to get sim racing. Thanks mate.
Recently come across your channel Karl as I was researching cockpits and wheels as I'm getting into some sim-racing. Just have to say kudos for the content and it's damn informative for someone like me. Subscribed and bought a playseat challenge and the T300 Ferrari Alacantra edition. :)
How’s this wheel compared to the csl DD? I don’t know if I should buy this one while Thrustmaster release their DD (and can get one) or jump straight to Fanatec and their csl DD. Thanks! Great content btw!
Question: I have the T300 RS-GT with the latest update firmware version 34 which has the boost option (constant + spring). Do I still use these same Thrustmaster settings in the control panel with the boost option, or should I just go with the settings that you said in the video with the boost option turned off?
Fun fact; some cars have a clutch that needs to be pushed down all the way to the floor before they do anything. I remember a new Mercedes with such a clutch.
Not to be argumentative but it cannot literally be all the way down... you need some upward travel to find a biting point and be able to pull way :) lol
@@KarlGosling Trust me, you need to push it all the way down untill the end before you are able to shift. Releasing the clutch did have a upward travel. I guess it was a "feature" of Mercedes.
Winding is anyone can help me I have the thrustmaster t248 and I have just downloaded dirt rally 2.0 My problem is the game isn’t registering any steering until my wheel gets to 90 degrees. So if I drive in a straight line and I want to turn left it doesn’t start turning until my wheel is at 90 degrees left and then the same for right All calibrated and latest drivers. Thanks in advance
Hi Karl when DR2 first came out i was put off by the comments about how bad FFB is compared to DR1 - a year on now I cant seem to find any info that they have improved on this and now DR2 is only £12 for GOTY edition on steam - I want to get it but only if I know the FFB is better then when it was released - I am using a T150 Pro wheel
hey karl i followed your guide and all i feel is ffb clipping no feel to the road and when going above 100kph even on a tarmac stage the wheel swings back and forth and plows me into a fence the wheel i am using is a ts-xw also when i lose grip in the fwd cars there is no loss of grip feel in the game i have lost grip in my vxr when i take a corner too fast and i feel a lost of grip so i was wondering if you possibly know what is wrong
It sounds like one of the FFB gain settings is way too high, perhaps in the Thrustmaster control panel? DR2 was designed and tested using your exact wheel and is why no real adjustments are needed (expect the one slider in game as I felt this was a little too high for me personally), everything else should be default.
@@KarlGosling setting the gain to 60 percent fixed it but i realized that dirt rally 2 ffb is utter garbage compared to dirt rally there is no feel of tyre slip in it (from the front tyres anyway) and no real suspension feel tried the settings with dirt rally 1 night and day in my opinion and i still question a year out from launch why tyre slip and engine is grayed out when they weren't in dirt rally 1 from the get go anyway thanks for the help.
@@996stoky I hear a lot of people say just that but for me it feels pretty much the same as DR1, maybe our varying hardware setups are effecting the way our wheels are behaving for some reason?! As I mentioned before DR2 was developed and tested on our exact wheels by two real life rally drivers so it should be as good as it can be?! lol
@@KarlGosling hey karl returned to dirt rally 2 and found that the steering center force seems to be the blame for the overly stiff feel once i lowered that it feels much lighter but now i need to play around with the suspension as it snap steers too much plus the soft lock for me does nothing 900 degrees is 900 in the game regardless of which car you pick so i am now trying different degrees (ones recommended by thrust master)
TS-PC and TS-XW are the exact same wheel base inside and the CSL Elite feels very similar, you can't really go wrong with any of them if upgrading from a G29/T150, I can't comment on longevity of the Fanatec buy my TM wheel bases have lasted years of hard Rallying with no problems so far.
I am using the g920 for more than 4 years and I am really happy with it, but I’m thinking about buying the ( tx leather ) , so is there any better option ?? for 600$ and less
SON OF A BITCH!!! It’s not like I don’t watch enough Sim Racers on RUclips already, but I just found your channel and really like the content so I had to subscribe. It would be different if I was in quarantine or self isolation!!! Oh wait, I am in quarantine!!! Damn it!!!
Hmm I did and it's tough to say, there's a little more torque and if you want the best before going direct drive then yes... but the difference isn't massive.
Wait for future direct drive wheels. They will become cheaper and cheaper The difference from ts and t300 is so little, some people doesn't even notice. Go for the latest fanatec wheels or wait
Hey i got a question, sorry i dont know where to ask. I want to start racing with a wheel and I play on ps4, but is have a very thight buget. What wheel shoul i go and buy? (Ill prob get them second hand)
@@KarlGosling I get to the end of a stage after roughly 20 mins of play, the wheel disconnects then repeatedly goes through calibration. Sometimes it's quite violent as well. The wheel hits the side quite hard. Here's a clip I took. Any suggestions? ruclips.net/video/-ZrRbbfwA6s/видео.html
One way trip to a dead wheel this lol thrustmaster sets the software gain at 75 percent by default for a reason, theres headroom there for more power on a game with weaker feedback, thats why its lower gain at stock, pushing it to 100 percent is a 1 way trip to dead t300's especially with a game thats already delivering stronger feedback.
Do you have a source for this information mate? I'd be very interested to read it. But... your fears are not a worry at all, if your have your FFB at 100% in the control panel and then correctly tune it in game (as per this video) there is still plenty of overhead, you never ever want to be at true 100% or you would clip. This way also means you tune each game once... instead of having to adjust the control panel every time you load a different game or just never using your wheel to it's full potential which when you only have 6nm or 3nm of torque you definitely want to do! :)
@@KarlGosling i absolutely agree, its just we see a lot of people complain about dead t300's due to overheating and its because they dont understand just as you have said and push the wheel into a zone of clipping and dont know it. the only reason i made my comment is because you didnt make it very clear that making sensible adjustments in game would be wise after pushing the software to 100 percent(edit: when i say in game i mean all games, 100 percent in dirt 2 might be tame compared to 100 percent in assetto corsa for example and then is when the issues occur). thats not your fault its obviously the fault of users not using common sense or just users that think the wheel is designed and will work fine at 100 percent in software and game. so really my only source is just the age old complaint of overheating t300's, the best advice for most using that particular wheel would be to keep it as stock, adjust the feedback in game to your liking and perhaps even force the fan on through the wheel to ensure longevity and no risk of loss of feedback aswell. i dont think how powerful the motor is on the wheel has much relevance in this situation, if the motor only puts out 6nm i dont think it should be the goal to hit that mark because you will be asking a lot of that particular motor and i know you didnt say they should try to hit that peak as you just explained but that could easily be missed in your video particularly as it is aimed at those without more knowledge on the subject, its not your fault and it doesnt make your video bad, i like the way its structured it just never made it too clear to those less knowledgeable why 100 percent should be used with caution in game. thanks for the response, no malice intended just how i envision a lot of people ending up with a dead t300, woohoo 100 percent baby lets feel the power and... poof lol just for reference i have a t300rs gt and a TGT, i usually leave the t300rs at the 75 percent stock output and push the TGT to 85 percent since its base has been refined better for cooling.
Thats cool mate I didn't take it the wrong way :) The video is solely for DR2.0 so these settings are IME perfect for that... each game/sim is as you say different in it's output and I'm actually working my way through all the popular ones producing a video for each. The only thing I don't agree on is trying to reach peak torque of these little wheel bases... when you only have around 3nm (T300/TX) or 6nm (TS-PC/TGT) you absolutely want to try and make use of all that as it's not even close to achieving a real life feel, you wouldn't and shouldn't hold that torque for extended periods (or clip of course) but peaking is fine. If you had a DD base with 30nm then you may only want to hit around 25nm as this from what I've read is about the most a real life steering wheel applies to the driver but with weaker bases you do want to use what they have available. I run a TX and TS-PC both at 100% in the control panel and then tuned correctly in game and neither of those have ever overheated or had any issues in the last two years or so.... But as we both know it's the in game tuning that keeps this from happening :)
Hey Karl, I just have a quick question. Do you know if it's possible to use the Logitech shifter, or Thrustmaster th8a as a handbrake? (On ps4 specifically)
I don't know for sure but I'm going to say no, as typically you can't remap controls to standalone USB devices on consoles.... but it would definitely be game dependent and I've never tried it so these are just my thoughts.
Thanks for the advise but if the conclusion to all settings is: leave it all at 100%, I would rather not watch an 18 minute video about it next time. It would be really helpful if you added the settings to your video description and than explained in the video why you chose those settings. Now I have to look for the settings by skipping through the video or listen to it all before finding out it's pretty much all at default.
The point of the video is to show you what everything does to allow you to tune it yourself as well as my preferred settings... you may not like them but now you know how to tune it yourself :)
I really love how honest and straight-up you are about everything. I just bought a T300 RS GT with pedals that was mainly influenced by watching your channel so I just wanna say thanks for making great content!
Thanks mate glad you find it helpful! :)
It’s probably awhile ago you made this, but I’ve been searching high and low for something clear & concise to help set up my TM kit in dirt 2.0. This, was perfect. Recommended to me by a chap in the “Barrel Rollers” Club. Oh and you swear like a Chef, which I am, so that gave me quite a chuckle.. Cheers mate, job well done. Will recommend to others for sure.
lol Excellent!
Thank you very much! Everybody doesn't explain anything and offers just to copy their configuration. I really appreciate your explanation.
Explanations are far more important! Then you can adjust things to your liking :)
Karl Gosling - The Van damme of sim racing.
😆lol cheers!
Thx mate for this video, I have a T150, tried this on Dirt and it worked great, Liked!
No problem 👍
Thanks for your post brother. I found out what many of those settings in 2.0 are for finally. Now I feel bad that I never made the minimal effort to learn what these settings were actually for. ;-) I replaced my 18yr old Logitech FFB wheel & pedals(way before 3 pedal sets were a thing) with a Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition. Wow,what a difference! Using many of your settings along with a few personal tweaks, Dirt 2 has nefer felt better. Thanks again brotherman. Peace
Learning what each setting does is key to making adjustments or we're just playing around blind, glad it helped mate! :)
You re the man Karl, thanks for clarifying all those options i didn t knew about.
No worries mate.
7:18 - 7:40 truth! TM is always recommended in my books.
Hey Karl, I just got my first wheel and its the Thrustmaster t150, watched this vid to set it up and buying this wheel was the best purchase I have made for gaming. Ive watched a ton of your vids and you inspired me to get sim racing. Thanks mate.
Glad I could help mate enjoy yourself! :)
Great explanation and this was all spot on for my T300, cheers Karl!
Glad it helped
very helpful and funny at the same time 🙂
nice bit of info man great vid mate
Thanks 👍
Recently come across your channel Karl as I was researching cockpits and wheels as I'm getting into some sim-racing. Just have to say kudos for the content and it's damn informative for someone like me. Subscribed and bought a playseat challenge and the T300 Ferrari Alacantra edition. :)
Cheers mate!
Great way to get started, enjoy! :)
Thanks Karl, very informative
Very welcome
Excellent , Thank You!!!, Informative !!!!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Farking gold bro
Is that a Winamp tab? Wow, respect for still rocking it (at least in 2019).
It is!! :) lol
Thank you for your video, solved all my problems and questions
Glad it helped
Helpful video, thank you
Ha ha finally got around to buying dirt2! thanks for this
No problem!
@7:00 story of my life
hey...nice video and helpfuly aa lot...will be posiple to make a video for asseto corsa...for the ts_pc?
I no longer have a TS-PC Racer mate sorry.
Great video
Thanks!
The wheel friction setting has no effect on my t500rs. It always feels a little heavy but in other games I can disable it entirely with no problems.
Thanks
No worries!
thank you. good instructions! :)
Glad it was helpful!
How’s this wheel compared to the csl DD? I don’t know if I should buy this one while Thrustmaster release their DD (and can get one) or jump straight to Fanatec and their csl DD. Thanks! Great content btw!
CSL DD is much nicer IMO.
@@KarlGosling thanks man!
Question: I have the T300 RS-GT with the latest update firmware version 34 which has the boost option (constant + spring). Do I still use these same Thrustmaster settings in the control panel with the boost option, or should I just go with the settings that you said in the video with the boost option turned off?
Try both mate, see what you prefer.
Fun fact; some cars have a clutch that needs to be pushed down all the way to the floor before they do anything.
I remember a new Mercedes with such a clutch.
Not to be argumentative but it cannot literally be all the way down... you need some upward travel to find a biting point and be able to pull way :) lol
@@KarlGosling Trust me, you need to push it all the way down untill the end before you are able to shift.
Releasing the clutch did have a upward travel.
I guess it was a "feature" of Mercedes.
Winding is anyone can help me I have the thrustmaster t248 and I have just downloaded dirt rally 2.0
My problem is the game isn’t registering any steering until my wheel gets to 90 degrees. So if I drive in a straight line and I want to turn left it doesn’t start turning until my wheel is at 90 degrees left and then the same for right
All calibrated and latest drivers.
Thanks in advance
Hi Karl when DR2 first came out i was put off by the comments about how bad FFB is compared to DR1 - a year on now I cant seem to find any info that they have improved on this and now DR2 is only £12 for GOTY edition on steam - I want to get it but only if I know the FFB is better then when it was released - I am using a T150 Pro wheel
In my opinion the FFB is fine and has always been, it feels very much like the first Dirt Rally.
hey karl i followed your guide and all i feel is ffb clipping no feel to the road and when going above 100kph even on a tarmac stage the wheel swings back and forth and plows me into a fence the wheel i am using is a ts-xw also when i lose grip in the fwd cars there is no loss of grip feel in the game i have lost grip in my vxr when i take a corner too fast and i feel a lost of grip so i was wondering if you possibly know what is wrong
It sounds like one of the FFB gain settings is way too high, perhaps in the Thrustmaster control panel? DR2 was designed and tested using your exact wheel and is why no real adjustments are needed (expect the one slider in game as I felt this was a little too high for me personally), everything else should be default.
@@KarlGosling setting the gain to 60 percent fixed it but i realized that dirt rally 2 ffb is utter garbage compared to dirt rally there is no feel of tyre slip in it (from the front tyres anyway) and no real suspension feel tried the settings with dirt rally 1 night and day in my opinion and i still question a year out from launch why tyre slip and engine is grayed out when they weren't in dirt rally 1 from the get go anyway thanks for the help.
@@996stoky I hear a lot of people say just that but for me it feels pretty much the same as DR1, maybe our varying hardware setups are effecting the way our wheels are behaving for some reason?!
As I mentioned before DR2 was developed and tested on our exact wheels by two real life rally drivers so it should be as good as it can be?! lol
@@KarlGosling yeah well who knows see what dirt rally 3 brings if it does come out
@@KarlGosling hey karl returned to dirt rally 2 and found that the steering center force seems to be the blame for the overly stiff feel once i lowered that it feels much lighter but now i need to play around with the suspension as it snap steers too much plus the soft lock for me does nothing 900 degrees is 900 in the game regardless of which car you pick so i am now trying different degrees (ones recommended by thrust master)
TS-PC Ferrari 488 challenge edition,TS-XW,CSL Elite, which one is smoother,better quality and longevity?Im going from G29 and T150 PRO atm. Thanks :)
TS-PC and TS-XW are the exact same wheel base inside and the CSL Elite feels very similar, you can't really go wrong with any of them if upgrading from a G29/T150, I can't comment on longevity of the Fanatec buy my TM wheel bases have lasted years of hard Rallying with no problems so far.
Hi dude! What are the best degrees in "calibrate" for T150 thrustmaster. I am on Ps4.
I am using the g920 for more than 4 years and I am really happy with it, but I’m thinking about buying the ( tx leather ) , so is there any better option ?? for 600$ and less
TX is a great option for the price mate.
SON OF A BITCH!!! It’s not like I don’t watch enough Sim Racers on RUclips already, but I just found your channel and really like the content so I had to subscribe. It would be different if I was in quarantine or self isolation!!! Oh wait, I am in quarantine!!! Damn it!!!
hahaha thanks mate!! XD
Still no ffb on tarmac surface. As a codemaster fan, im very frustrated. Using ts-pc myself
Yeah that's just something we have to live with mate, it won't change this far into DR2.0's life.
Hi, just bought a Thrustmaster TMX PRO Force Feedback. Do u have any specific settings or advise ? i play Dirt 2.0 on PC. Thanks
I'm sorry I do not have one.
How do you change the buttons from numbers to the same as the wheel buttons?
You can't change them, they are what they are mate.
Is it worth upgrading to ts-xw from T300??
Hmm I did and it's tough to say, there's a little more torque and if you want the best before going direct drive then yes... but the difference isn't massive.
Wait for future direct drive wheels. They will become cheaper and cheaper
The difference from ts and t300 is so little, some people doesn't even notice. Go for the latest fanatec wheels or wait
I play on console...do I have to go into the wheels control panel if I don't want to? Im playing dirt rally 2.0 exclusively
Sorry mate I don't have a console so have no idea.
Hey i got a question, sorry i dont know where to ask.
I want to start racing with a wheel and I play on ps4, but is have a very thight buget. What wheel shoul i go and buy?
(Ill prob get them second hand)
Logitech G920 is probably a good starting point.
For some reason my tx is freaking out after 20 mins of use and that's with the ffb turned down?
Freaking out?
@@KarlGosling I get to the end of a stage after roughly 20 mins of play, the wheel disconnects then repeatedly goes through calibration. Sometimes it's quite violent as well. The wheel hits the side quite hard. Here's a clip I took. Any suggestions?
ruclips.net/video/-ZrRbbfwA6s/видео.html
Mate how do you get the driver? I don't think mine is working ts300 windows 10
Thrustmaster.com
@@KarlGosling oh, just had trouble getting it took install and saw on yt I wasn't the only one. Hmm are you also using windows 10?
Yeah W10 mate, no problems.
@@KarlGosling dude thanks it last comment made me try another way and it fking worked, didn't know I had to go into control panel
One way trip to a dead wheel this lol thrustmaster sets the software gain at 75 percent by default for a reason, theres headroom there for more power on a game with weaker feedback, thats why its lower gain at stock, pushing it to 100 percent is a 1 way trip to dead t300's especially with a game thats already delivering stronger feedback.
Do you have a source for this information mate? I'd be very interested to read it.
But... your fears are not a worry at all, if your have your FFB at 100% in the control panel and then correctly tune it in game (as per this video) there is still plenty of overhead, you never ever want to be at true 100% or you would clip.
This way also means you tune each game once... instead of having to adjust the control panel every time you load a different game or just never using your wheel to it's full potential which when you only have 6nm or 3nm of torque you definitely want to do! :)
@@KarlGosling i absolutely agree, its just we see a lot of people complain about dead t300's due to overheating and its because they dont understand just as you have said and push the wheel into a zone of clipping and dont know it. the only reason i made my comment is because you didnt make it very clear that making sensible adjustments in game would be wise after pushing the software to 100 percent(edit: when i say in game i mean all games, 100 percent in dirt 2 might be tame compared to 100 percent in assetto corsa for example and then is when the issues occur). thats not your fault its obviously the fault of users not using common sense or just users that think the wheel is designed and will work fine at 100 percent in software and game.
so really my only source is just the age old complaint of overheating t300's, the best advice for most using that particular wheel would be to keep it as stock, adjust the feedback in game to your liking and perhaps even force the fan on through the wheel to ensure longevity and no risk of loss of feedback aswell.
i dont think how powerful the motor is on the wheel has much relevance in this situation, if the motor only puts out 6nm i dont think it should be the goal to hit that mark because you will be asking a lot of that particular motor and i know you didnt say they should try to hit that peak as you just explained but that could easily be missed in your video particularly as it is aimed at those without more knowledge on the subject, its not your fault and it doesnt make your video bad, i like the way its structured it just never made it too clear to those less knowledgeable why 100 percent should be used with caution in game.
thanks for the response, no malice intended just how i envision a lot of people ending up with a dead t300, woohoo 100 percent baby lets feel the power and... poof lol
just for reference i have a t300rs gt and a TGT, i usually leave the t300rs at the 75 percent stock output and push the TGT to 85 percent since its base has been refined better for cooling.
Thats cool mate I didn't take it the wrong way :)
The video is solely for DR2.0 so these settings are IME perfect for that... each game/sim is as you say different in it's output and I'm actually working my way through all the popular ones producing a video for each.
The only thing I don't agree on is trying to reach peak torque of these little wheel bases... when you only have around 3nm (T300/TX) or 6nm (TS-PC/TGT) you absolutely want to try and make use of all that as it's not even close to achieving a real life feel, you wouldn't and shouldn't hold that torque for extended periods (or clip of course) but peaking is fine.
If you had a DD base with 30nm then you may only want to hit around 25nm as this from what I've read is about the most a real life steering wheel applies to the driver but with weaker bases you do want to use what they have available.
I run a TX and TS-PC both at 100% in the control panel and then tuned correctly in game and neither of those have ever overheated or had any issues in the last two years or so.... But as we both know it's the in game tuning that keeps this from happening :)
Hey Karl, I just have a quick question. Do you know if it's possible to use the Logitech shifter, or Thrustmaster th8a as a handbrake? (On ps4 specifically)
I don't know for sure but I'm going to say no, as typically you can't remap controls to standalone USB devices on consoles.... but it would definitely be game dependent and I've never tried it so these are just my thoughts.
Yo
Thanks for the advise but if the conclusion to all settings is: leave it all at 100%, I would rather not watch an 18 minute video about it next time.
It would be really helpful if you added the settings to your video description and than explained in the video why you chose those settings. Now I have to look for the settings by skipping through the video or listen to it all before finding out it's pretty much all at default.
The point of the video is to show you what everything does to allow you to tune it yourself as well as my preferred settings... you may not like them but now you know how to tune it yourself :)
@@KarlGosling touche
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