How to install a towel radiator
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2012
- installing a towel radiator can be tricky but this guide shows one way of installing a towel radiator. Before fitting the radiator you need to drain down the system which can be seen in this video • Draining down central ...
When joining the chrome pipe it is best to use a compression fitting as these are compatible with chrome pipe. Other fittings can be used but you must remove the chrome plating first, which can be difficult!
For more central heating advice please see here www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/cen... 
Хобби
Thank you so much for your video - with your instruction, I successfully removed 2 radiators before decorating, without a flood in the house!
Great job. Thank you for the time and effort you took to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
nice video. is there a link to how you would fit the elbows? I think I'm going to have to do this in order to connect the existing pipes to the rad
That's really helpful thanks a lot, great videos by the way.
very useful video and good tips to prevent the tiles cracking...thanx for taking the time to do it.
+MrBillytwice
Thanks for the comment ;-)
And finally someone who wraps ptfe tape in the right direction nice video
Thanks for the comment 👍
No messing & always to the point. Thank you as always.....
You are so welcome 👍
A great video, thank you. Your workmanship is absolutely spot-on and impeccible but, just one question; why do you even have a shifting spanner in your tool kit, let alone use one?!!
Hi, could you tell me if a heated towel rail can just be connected to the existing radiator tails. Thanks.
Good video, very clear instructions, I would have preferred to see more on the final fitting to the water pipe (unless there was a separate video)
Thanks, I'm afraid I lost a lot of footage when doing this bathroom but it's just a case of modifying the existing pipes.
Thanks for the comment
Fantastic work very tidy thumb up :))
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Why compression 90's? You get a better joint with solder fitting. Also did you check if there was a 2 port TRV for the flow and return? cheers for the vieo though interesting way of doing it.
I have watched a lot of your videos, and I think that Metabo should send you one of their LTX Impulse drills :)
Great Video really helpful in a language that is understandable, please could you tell me prior to cutting into pipe work, do I need to drain the system on condensing boiler and do the other radiators need to be closed off.
Many Thanks
Sunni
Yes, you would need to drain the system before cutting into any pipes.
After you have done the work I would refill the system and check for leaks, then once you are happy drain out a little more water and add some central heating inhibitor.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I'm having a go at installing a chrome tall towel rack radiator where an old wide rad was installed so I'm replacing and relocating the pipes too, do you have a video that shows how to get the water out of the pipes I'll be chopping or is it just a case of opening them and draining another rad on the system?
Just drain the system first-
Draining down central heating
Probably best to use compression fittings unless you want to wait for the pipes to be dry enough to solder-
compression fittings
You'll also need to add inhibitor afterwards-
How to add inhibitor to a central heating system
then fill the system back up-
How to repressurise or fill a combi boiler or sealed central heating system
Hi mate .... I've installed my towel radiator after watching your video so thanks ... I'm having to change the valves as well and wanted to ask your advice ... I have an unvented central heating system run off a system boiler. I've read that it's not necessary to drain the system down as long as I do 1 valve changeover at a time ie I wont be flooded . Is that correct in your opinion
No, I'm pretty sure that is not correct.
As soon as you remove one of the valves, there is nothing to stop the water in the system from leaking out!
Thanks for the comment
excellent video very helpful as I am installing one next week. just wondering whats your favourite trade
I like all trades, but would not like to choose just one for a career!
Thanks for the comment
What's The Make Of Drill That You Are Using As It Seems To Be Doing An Amazing Job
I used the Milwaukee C12D when fitting this, it really is a cracking little drill ;-)
Milwaukee C12D review
great video, thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Hello im about to replace my heated towel rail and add 3 feet of underfloor heating. Can i somehow use the same existing circuit/hardwiring to run both ? If so how would it be done? Thanks 😁
I'm not sure, sorry as I have never installed UFH before.
Thanks for the comment
Hi, I have an old bathroom radiator that has pipes coming through the floor. They are centred at 635mm. I can't seem to get a radiator to fit and I just wondered if you can advise me of what I should do please? I am trying to teach myself to become more handy haha. Thanks you! 😀
You will probably have to alter the pipe work, as it's unlikely that you will get a direct replacement.
You would have to drain down the system and re-pipe at least one side of the radiator, normally I cut the pipes under the floor and then join the new pipework to them.
Ultimate Handyman Hi, OK thank you I really appreciate your help! 😀 Hopefully it will all go to plan! Take care!
Hi ultimate handy
I have to questions
1. How do you go about hanging the heated rail on a partition wall as are bathroom and toilet are seperate divided by a partition I think those long plug may come through the other side.
2. The radiator that is in the bathroom has the two pipes going into the right side with a control valve and a another so it look like the hot water is going in and out the same side will I have to move the out pipe to the other side.
1. Ideally you need to fix a radiator to the studs, but it is not always possible- ruclips.net/video/glzwY76O0d8/видео.html
There are lots of good plasterboard fixings available now, this video shows how much weight some of them can take- ruclips.net/video/ECDysfNhx_E/видео.html
2. Yes, they used to pipe up some radiators up like that. It should be relatively easy to re-pipe it.
Thanks for the comment
Don't know anything about these as never had one. We have a radiator in bathroom at the moment, but only on if heating on. So can you attach a towel radiator to hot water system that tapes use or does it connect to central heating? Don't understand how they work in summer when heating isn't on? Cheers
You can pipe one up to the central heating system, but then the radiator will only come on when the central heating is switched on.
You can get a towel rail and fill it with water and insert an electric heating element, this will work of a built-in thermostat. If in the UK you might need an electrician to wire it up if it is in a bathroom.
Thanks for the comment
can some tell me were can I get the bracket clips from , my one broken due to heat ,you be very help full .
They have some on ebay- fave.co/2DAalym
Hi, what is the stuff rattling inside the radiator? Dos this need to be emptied?
Nicely explained video
Is it possible to connect bent tap connectors to radiator valves if (as in my case) it results in less exposed pipe work ? Even if it were possible would it be ill advisablle e.g., flow rate issues ?
Don't know sorry, it's not something I have ever considered doing. I don't think there will be flow issues but you will of course have no way of controlling the heat output of the radiator
Hi, we have just had a heated towel rail put in our bathroom. We think the fitter put it on upside down. As its opposite on the box. There are more pipes at the top and the 3 pipes at the bottom. On asking him he said there isn't a right or wrong way up. Is this true please.
As far as I am aware, there is no right or wrong way to hang a towel radiator.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I like those brackets. Where can I get some like that? Or which radiator do they come with?
They came with the radiator, I'm afraid.
Thanks for the comment
Great vid as usual. Question though - why not get a wider towel rail so you dont have to cut the water pipes?
They don't come in a massive amount of sizes!
Ultimate Handyman true dat. Screw fix do a 1100 x 600 mm and the pipes on the old radiator are exzctly 600 which is nice i guess.
Great video as always 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for sharing its be very useful thanks 😎
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Another great video.
I like to do the odd job around the house but wouldn't take the chance with electrics or plumbing.
I've called a plumber to install a radiator very similar to the one you've used and he's quoted £60 as it involves draining the system and possibly moving the pipework. Is this a good price for the work required?
Keep the videos coming please.
Darren Muir
Yes, that's a bargain ;-)
When you consider the overheads of tradesmen such as insurance, van, tools etc.
I'd be happy to pay £60 for that job ;-)
Fantastic thanks,I do love a bargain.
As said that's decent. Many times though draining the system isn't necessary. I managed to release the pressure recently on a downstairs rad . And install new trv's I'm not a plumber
when I screw the output valve in there is no stopping it, I could go all the way through so the valve would end up in the radiator, is it supposed to come to a stop and get tight or is it just the ptfe tape that is supposed to make it fit tight?
I have never tried screwing one in so far, I'd apply plenty of PTFE and then try it again. It should go pretty tight with enough PTFE.
Do you need to earth these towel rails see so many of these videos but never see them earthed thanks
Not a simple question, I’m afraid. It depends on the type of protection offered by the consumer unit. If in doubt, earthing it is the safest option 👍
Good job.
What drill model is that? It's nice.
It's the Milwaukee C12 D (cracking little drill)
ruclips.net/video/xEcnCSqLv9M/видео.html
Brilliant work. cheers
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
as a plumber, you need at least two shifting spanners and adjustable grips. It's part of the qualifying mark of a plumber (lol). Ring spanners are useful but make the tool kit heavier than necessary. I wouldn't feel happy going out without a couple of shifters.
Ring spanners definitely useful when you're tightening ptfe x 12 turns!
This was a huge help - thanks lad.
+EthicalStores Thanks for the comment ;-)
is it wise to use compression fitting under floor surface??
Yes, they are fine under wooden floors but I would never bury any fitting in a concrete floor.
Thanks for the comment
What fittings would you use for plasterboard?
Spring toggles work well- ruclips.net/video/WO55oYozlxA/видео.html
What did you prop the rad up into position with 🤔
This was a few years back, but I think I used blocks of wood 👍
what type of plug would you use on a plasterboard wall?
I'd use spring toggles if it's a stud partition wall, or rigifix fixings if it's a solid wall behind-
Weight test of plasterboard fixings- ruclips.net/video/ECDysfNhx_E/видео.html
Spring toggles- ruclips.net/video/WO55oYozlxA/видео.html
Rigifix- ruclips.net/video/xaYfs3lr1jI/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman thanks for the advice great help
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Are Bahco adjustables still the best?
Yes, in my opinion Bahco make the best adjustable spanners.
Thanks for the comment
if you have to put the fitting behind the tile. how do you get on with plasterboard fittings. the ones i use uses the tool to open it from behind but guesing these are a problem due to tiles
I'm not sure what you mean, sorry.
Do you have a picture of the fixings?
+Ultimate Handyman i was refering to the wall anchors . you have then on your other video testing the weght. i use the special tool but im guesing if going behind the tile i wont get that tool in there?
+James Baillie i use them flr my other rads in the house
You could use spring toggles- these can support a lot of weight- ruclips.net/video/WO55oYozlxA/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman will i not be making a huge whole on the tile or you think the bracket will hide it
Do you have to ground it. My old one has a wire attached?
If your old radiator is earthed it is a good idea to earth the new one as well ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman ive not seen many videos that uses the wire
I think they have removed the need for supplementary bonding of radiator pipes in houses that are wired with RCD protection but if your old radiator has it you are better off transferring it to the new radiator as well ;-)
Chez, if I wanted to change my one for a new one, do I have to drain the system down? Or do I just have to turn the valves on the radiator off? thanks in advance!
If it's a like for like swap and no alteration to the pipework is needed you can just close both valves without draining down. Open the bleed valve to relieve the pressure in the radiator, then crack one of the unions and drain off the water from the radiator. Once drained remove and fit new one.
You will of course have to top the system back up again afterwards, if it is a sealed system ;-)
Thanks for that! What's a sealed system?
And would I have to put inhibitor in it as well?
Thanks for the help.
*****
You are welcome. A sealed system is when you have to manually add water to it, such as with a combi boiler. When the pressure drops you have to manually top it up yourself, whereas on a traditional system it will refill itself from the header tank. I would not worry about inhibitor unless you do a full drain down as I have heard that too much inhibitor is just as harmful as no inhibitor at all.
Ok, thanks very much.
that was very happyfull. thanks
Thank you very much.
I am going to have a go at this tomorrow ! if i don't get back to you i will be in the dog house due to failure !!! Top video .
Good luck with it Keith ;-)
Just a quick question , if i am changing an old bathroom radiator for a new chrome towel rad . How much water do i need to drain from the system ? The bathroom is on the first floor and the downstairs Radiator has the drain valve . Cheers
Job done , had to ditch the bracket extenders due to pipes being too close to the skirting . No leaks . followed the video job sorted .
On to the next job on the list .
Sorry Keith, only just seen your other comment from the other day (RUclips does not always send me notifications).
Glad you sorted it ;-)
great video helped loads. btw are you from rossendale? your accent sounds like a rossendale one
+Mark Weston
Thanks, I'm from Darwen which is in between Blackburn and Bolton.
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman ah right only 15 mins away
Got any videos on how to get ye radiator working ie to 100% at the moment a have a downstairs rad that is luke warm a cant get it to heat up properly lots of vids of upstairs rads but none for downstairs get lots of ring a plumber are heating engineer due to me boiler being upstairs ????
No, sorry.
Does the radiator have a TRV on it?
If so check that's working correctly. If the radiator does not need bleeding it looks like there could be some sludge in the radiator!
Ultimate Handyman cheers for the quick response yeah it has ive even swapped them from a upstairs rad No luck was going to try one of the cal shot total system protection inhibitor but was unsure. You add directly thro rad or filling loop ....
It's too late for inhibitor if the radiator is sludged up. If you remove it though you can give it a really good flush out using a hose pipe, then refit it.
It's best to drain down the system before adding inhibitor, so that it is mixed to the correct ratio as I have heard that too strong a concentrate can harm the system. I normally add it through a radiator, it's much easier if the system is drained down. Sometimes it is easier to add it through the filling loop, it depends what equipment you have.
You are welcome BTW ;-)
How do you top up a closed system heated by a combi boiler?
How to repressurise or fill a combi boiler or sealed central heating system
What if you have concrete floors attaching to old pipe
You will probably have to adjust the pipework, which can be difficult!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good movie, good describtion!
Thanks for the comment
Great video.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Did he repeat that on all four holes by any chance?
The 4 holes for the pipe fittings, or the 4 holes for the radiator fixings?
Are you using PTFE for Gas
Yes, it is the same stuff as normal PTFE- just thicker, so you do not need as many turns.
Thanks for the comment
Great video but I do things slightly different. Ideally the tiles need to be dried solidly; plan your job accordingly; otherwise when tightening up the fittings the tiles can move and crack. Also best to grout and finish the tiles before fitting the rail. To drill tiles best use a Tile Drill bit; can be purchased in packs from hardware stores; Screwfix; usually cheaper to buy a pack of 3 or four, than individually; these drills have a spear shaped head. I step drill; take it easy drilling and don't force your bit in use a slow speed and not hammer. I use the smallest drill to centre the hole first then the others up to the plug size ; remove when finished. The fixing plug must go behind the tile into a solid wall surface (do not rely on fixing into plaster) and the masonery drill finally used should fit the hole drilled; otherwise the tile can break. I use an old vaccum cleaner to catch all of the waste and also a dust sheet on the floor surface; if required. Brick dust will scratch anything and makes a mess.
Plaster plugs are tidy but I agree to all u said
does it matter which side the bleeding valves on, and does it matter which side the valves are at the botom.
No, it does not matter.
Thanks for the comment
does it matter which side the trv goes on and the lock shield valve , can you put them on any side you want, thanks, mark.
The TRV normally goes on the flow side, not the return side- but most people don't normally fit TVR valves on towel radiators.
forgive me for being ignorant, how do you tell which is the flow side and which is the return side.
No problem Mark.
With TVR's it is normal to leave one radiator in the property without a TVR, so if all other radiators in the property have TVR's the towel rail is normally just fitted with standard valves, so that water can still flow if all the TVR's close- unless the boiler has a flow meter (I do not know which boilers do and do not have a flow meter).
The original installer will normally fit the TVR to the flow side, so before removing the old plumbing it's best to take note of which side the valves are on, but most TVR's now are bi-directional and so it does not really matter which side the TVR is installed on. I'm no expert on these but I believe that if you get the valves on the wrong side it can increase the chance of noise in the system.
Why some people put ptfe tape on anticlockwise??
Probably because they don't know the correct way to apply it.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman thanks for reply once I've had problem when installing radiator I have applied ptfe on both tails clockwise and on one side was leaking until I did the leaking side anticlockwise and leak stopped 🤔 I'm a bit confused
12 wraps a bit excessive?
Better too much than not enough ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I will be doing this from now on!
12 times LOL
Hi good video but you would be better using tile drill!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Need tile drill bits theure pretty cheap dude . Much quicker and safer than a drill bit ..can change to masonary once through the tile
Masonry drill bits are fine of ceramic, although I would use a different type of bit for porcelain 👍
@@ultimatehandyman fair comment mate . The tile bits are pretty cheap I just keep a set hand goes through like knife through butter lol
You have some interesting vids so not out to criticise but just wondered why you didn't use a tile bit ? as they are easier to get started and basically cut holes in tiles.
I know there are a lot of " one cut" type drill bits but for a learner with less control it could result in a grab and crack scenario :(
GOOD MEN
nice radiator where did you get it? nice job yhanx bob
+Bob Brua
I think I bought it from a seller on ebay Bob.
Thanks for the comment
Use a proper tile bit, much easier
Masonry bits work fine on ceramic tile ;-)
Thanks for the comment
sow eye cant spel aw punctuate corekt ? but at leest eye kan tayk a joak ,
antony travers
It took a long time to think of that excuse!
Normally when leaving a joke online it is customary to leave a smiley or a "LOL" at the end.
fairly obv it was a joke dude if i offended u sorry.spend an hour reading through comments where somebody dies or something then youll c trolling
Hello good people
you should always fill the hole with silicone when you put plugs into bathroom walls. you can get a water damage if you dont use it
12 times ptfe tape is way too much.
I often work on compressed air. It's always better to use too much rather than not enough ;-)
Ultimate Handyman OK i see, but I could be that you push the tape out of your treath by using to much. But you are a pro just like me so it will be OK 😊.
Here in The Netherlands we use loctite 55 teflon cord for the last couple of years, are you familiar with that? it works great and it looks very nice.
Thanks, no I have never used the cord.
On site we normally use PTFE tape up to pipes of about two inch diameter. Sometimes we use PTFE paste as well.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Thanks (again) for your videos: they are really useful.
I have a couple of questions about the fixings and the valves for these types of towel rail / radiators (sorry that it's a bit of a novel).
1) I just bought a chrome 1150 x 450 version from Victoria Plumb and the fixings look rubbish to me. In fact, they are plastic! I'm scared about their ability to withstand any type of rough treatment (like the kids absent-mindedly leaning on the top of them or something). Here they are: bit.ly/1L7gtIx . Have you seen such flimsy fittings before? Any advice?
2) The above rad did not come with tails. Instead, during the checkout process, I was offered valves with tails built in I guess. I opted for straight ones as I have put in new chrome pipes coming from the floor. You can see them here: bit.ly/1FTiLYf . I'm not too clear how to use these as the bottom fitting is obviously a compression fitting but the top one has a rubber ring built into it at the bottom with a nut that tightens onto the valve body, leaving just a thread exposed that presumably goes into the radiator. However, how would you tighten that into the rad? Confused :-(
3) My house (built around '93) has what I believe are referred to as 'eggbox' walls. basically 2 pieces of plasterboard sandwiching a cardboard former. Crap basically. In the past, I have had no end of trouble using normal cavity fixings because of the cardboard on the other side of the hole. Anyway, I know you are not supposed to hang these towel rails just onto plasterboard (you're supposed to either go into the timber frame, add batons or screw into the block behind) however I do not have this luxury: there is no frame nearby, batons would require almost replacing the wall and there's no brick/block behind it. I've opted for the larger size snap toggle fittings and bolts (which you review in another video), purchased from eBay with correct bolts included. Do you think these will do the job OK and the wall will support the rad?
Julian Smith
1) All the towel radiators I have installed have
used these kinds of plastic fixings. I’m sure one radiator only had 3 of them
instead of the expected 4. They are quite strong once installed though,
although I’d try and stop the kids from climbing on it. (I have young kids
myself, so I know how difficult that can be)
2) The tails normally screws into the radiator using
a large hex key, if you look inside it should be hexagonal.
3) Yes, snap toggles will be fine for holding the
radiator for the wall- as long as the kids don’t climb on it, as they are not
designed to take such weight (although they probably will)
I wrote this article a few years back showing how to install
a towel radiator, it has pictures of installing the tails using the hex key
etc. - www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/central-heating/install-a-towel-radiator
***** Thanks for the detailed response!
In the article you referred to, the photo of the radiator tail and valve look identical to the picture that I had linked in my question text above (did you see that photo?). This would lead me to believe that I do in fact have the tails but that they are simply supplied screwed into the valves (instead of being screwed into the rad itself).
What I had not noticed was the hex shape inside of the tail which would need to be tightened with a radiator spanner (large allen key).
Incidentally, As I am refitting the whole bathroom (including replacement of wonky floorboards so I can tile the floor), I have already provided the chrome up pipes from under the floor. Can I fix the radiator valves (using their compression fitting) onto these pipes and turn the valves off, so that I can refill the central heating system? That way, I can fit the new floor boards, then plaster and tile the walls and only later fit the towel rail onto the valves and drill the holes for the fitting brackets accordingly (without re-draining the system). Does that sound feasible/sensible?
***** Thanks again. as regards the snap toggle fittings, I noted that in your video you said that when using normal plugs and screws, you should drill the holes in the tiles bigger than the holes in the wall so as to ensure that the plugs were only fitted into and expanding into the wall, not the tiles. Is this also what I should do with the snap toggles? The ones I have (www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291016591777?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) already require a 13mm drill bit! Should I go bigger still through the tiles so that the snap toggle is only in contact with the plasterboard?
Cheers!
Julian Smith
Yes, I saw your photo.
The tails are normally supplied with the valves as they are normally made by the same company, just remove them from the valves, wrap the threads with PTFE tape and then tighten the tails into the radiator.
Yes, you can fit the valves, then re-fill the system and then fit the towel radiator after doing the other work ;-)
Julian Smith
No, just drill an half inch hole for the snap toggles.
They do not expand i the hole like wall plugs and screws do, so there is no chance of the expansion breaking the tiles.
its holes not ooles
It's not its
I may have a regional accent but at least I can spell and punctuate correctly.
Have enjoyed your vids but now unsubscribing due to intrusive advertising. Nice while it lasted. :(
There should be no more adverts in this video than any other of my videos. In 2004 I started a website and made enough money from the advertising to pay for the server (£500+per month), I also used to run a free monthly competition where you could win prizes but year on year the advertising revenue declined and so the competitions had to stop, in a few years I might have to move back onto shared hosting and the site will probably crash a lot (like it used to). Unfortunately advertising makes it possible for the small guy like me to run a website and make videos to help people, I never beg for money and don't use Paypal donate or Patreon. In a few years time the only websites that you might be able to view online are those that don't need any advertising revenue, such as B&Q, Wickes and other blue chip companies as they are the only ones that don't need any advertising revenue.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What drill bit would you use for porcelain tiles?
I'd use a diamond coated hole saw- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/tiling/diamond-coated-hole-saws
You can get them on ebay- fave.co/2D3fEmN
Ultimate Handyman Thank you so much for your answer! I see you recommend using water. I intend to hang a cabinet on a bathroom wall so my tiles are vertical and already on the wall. Any advice would be appreciated.
You can spray a little water on the drill bit to keep it cool during use. I use an empty spray bottle and just fill it with water.
Or you can buy a special kit for the job, similar to this- fave.co/2D21QJ8
Thanks again. I'll let you know how we get on. Removed a radiator today with the help of your video! Only got a wee bit wet!