Just to counter that, being a DIY plumber I would always recommend doing all plumbing work yourself, except for anything with gas boilers. If you make a mistake you get a leak, you turn off the water and then go fix it. If a plumber makes a mistake you have to beg him to come back to fix it and while you wait you have no heating/hot water and/or half your home ruined in the meantime. This excellent video is proof that anyone can do it.
Have using your videos as a "Jogger" as I intend to renew our bathroom soon, it's been about 15 years as it was a brand new build, the videos have proven to be of great help as Building Regs have moved on, so has the equipment available to the general handyman, it's easy to critic I notice that 44 persons who have watched this video well all I can say to them is "If you can do better, then please post your video for us to critic" trouble is you have made it look all so very simple thats because you have gone to great lengths to prepare which is much appreciated, you are a Man who believes in the 6 P's Thank you for all your time and effort
Sorry something went wrong & didn't get to finish my comment. Anyway what I was going to say was thank you so much for making a very well made and informative video. Also thanks for being so honest and explaining the mistake you made at the end of the video it shows the type of person you are, as you didn't need to show that ( no one would have known ) . Look forward to seeing more of your videos, thanks again
Hi, I am trying to replace my old double-tap with a mixer in the bathroom. I wonder if you can give me the name of the red rounded tool for cutting the copper pie. If I can use other means please advise. Thanks
I did a plumbing course at the local college and they we're anti speed and pushfit and pro solder. I'm happy I learnt to solder but I still can't help thinking it's "the hard way". The only advantage I see is that copper looks better? perhaps there's some legal requirement for it or something. again, good video, i like the way you don't gloss over anthing, seem to have a good eye for what could catch out a novice even though it's a doddle for you.
Thank you. Thumbs down are quite normal, even the very best videos get them. One explanation was that sometimes people using mobile phones hit the wrong button ;-) Thanks again for the comment
I have been a plumber for 39 years and would never use those small ball type isolation valves on a shower especially with a combi boiler. They could restrict the flow to the shower and could actually turn the gas off on the boiler through lack of flow pressure on the hot domestic out.I would always use 15 mm gate valves,fully open. Just a word of warning if you do mix up the pipes to a shower and run hot water through it the wrong way,there is a strong possibility you have already damaged the thermostat and find you would have to replace it.Could be expensive.
so 39 years of experience and you would use gate valves on a pressurised system. you should know gate valve are for gravity fed systems. they are not ment for higher pressure as they are shite.
+Gary Cormack Don't be silly the domestic pipes to a shower are NOT part of the pressurised system .YES.39 years I DO know what I'm talking about,you clearly do not.!
+graham brown so you're saying hot and cold from a combi, which would be mains pressure isn't a a pressurised system? gravity hot water isn't, mains is!
Love your work and watched plenty of your videos. I'm currently doing plumbing level 2, with every compression fitting or anywhere I use an olive I've been taught to add PTFE, also not to over-tighten the fitting as this can cause a leak, tip for your viewers?
You should put the service valve below the double check valve. For maintenance purposes on either the check valve or mixer shower etc... otherwise you cant isolate the check valve without switching off the mains. Being a professional plumber I wouldnt recommend doing any work like this unless qualified. Reason being if anything goes wrong the price of the job would quadrouple when you have to call an emergency plumber!! Good general advice though. Keep it up :0)
Pressure reducing valve, or a mixer that does not mix in the body of the tap but on the exit point. Failing that run an indirect feed from the cwsc. which must be below the hotwater draw off point on the cwsc.
@ultimatehandyman Just thought that in this type you does not use copper solder. Where i can show your job from the initial stage,because am interested in restoring an old bathroom. Thanks nice job!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video,dont mean to criticise but the hot feed shouls be above the cold feed shouldnt it? as heat rises and can cause the temperature in the cold pipes to rise causing bacteria to occur. i know it would be unlikely in this circumstance as its mainly on heating purposes but just thought id point out. Great video though!!
Thanks. Sorry wasn't very clear, just done a little digging on google, I think i mean a compression equal tee. Basically I want to run the pipes to the taps and then onto the bar shower, will the equal tee work or do I need something else. Thanks again
What is diameter of the copper tube you use? Who guarantees us that these two valves under the floor when destroyed (mineral salts and water electrolysis) will be able to check them or replace them. Otherwise I like the job you do.
Great video, I'm looking at putting an en-suite in my bedroom and I like your no nonsense approach. Where are you from by the way? Me and the wife were wondering because of your accent.
I notice you bend the pipes to run up the wall, being a novice would elbow values work for me instead. I also want to install a bar shower, can I use a splitter value? Thanks for any advice.
thanks, very helpful and easy watching, can you tell me how tight do you do up the nut over the olive? until its imposable to turn any more? also should plumbers tape be used? i keep seeing different things on diff vids i watch.... thanks
79holdentorana You should not need PTFE tape with compression fittings, it is just not necessary. The nuts need to be tight enough to compress the olive, which can be difficult if brass olives are used, which is why I prefer copper olives. I normally use long spanners when tightening the nuts as a lot of force is required- even more so with brass olives.
Is there any way I can find out why hot water comes out from the shower and spout at the same time? And when I want to use the shower head it still spills from the spout too, then it takes half an hour until the hot water returns.
Is it a shower mixer like the one in this video- ruclips.net/video/XcloESrxbnk/видео.html If it is, I think there is an "O" ring seal at the end. You should be able to unscrews the knob on the end and then remove a nut with a spanner and the valve should pull out.
I'm about to install the same type of shower bath, never been able to get those compression fittings sorted,either tighten too much or not enough and have leaks, what do you think of pushfit connectors?
Pushfit are fine as long as they are used correctly- If using copper pipe ensure it is de-burred correctly, if it's plastic ensure you use a pipe insert.
Thanks for the video. With a mixer tap both the hot and cold supplies have to be of equal pressure but all too often in the UK we have high pressure cold from mains and a low pressure hot water from a hot water cylinder fed from a tank in the roof. How do you get over that problem?
Why is it important to de-bur a pipe when the end isn't going to be touching any washers? Surely the pipe touching the inside of the compression fitting isn't going to bother anything?
Why do you fit the compression valve/non return valve as well as the flow valve? I can understand the reason for the flow valve. I’ve already purchased 1 for every pipe in the bathroom I’m renovating but what’s the purpose of the compression valve?
The non return valve (check valves) have to be installed on showers to prevent backflow and also the possibility of the hot water getting forced into the cold water (drinking water) Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for the response... After doing a spot of googling I bought 7 non return valves... I’m currently using nearly every video in the replace a bathroom playlist 👍🏼
@@jaysysumakaRatMaster3 No problem. You only need the non return valves on the shower (as far as I am aware) Good luck with it ;-) I have two bathrooms to replace here when I get chance- but I keep putting it off ;-)
Great video, very educational. We are re-fitting our shower valve as well, should we use PTFE tapes on brass bush - brass nipple joint? Very confused but couldn't find info anywhere. Cheers.
+taitlawrence I believe you are supposed to deburr all pipes before making any type of joint as the burrs can later work loose from the pipe and enter the drinking water.
It's more for the inside of the pipe. If you are running a shower of a combi boiler you really want as little restriction on the flow of water as possible. Full bore isolators should be used.
You can tee into the existing pipes from the hot and cold supply and then it's pretty much the same as this video. You would probably have to cross the hot and cold pipes over though to get them in the correct place on the shower.
Love your channel and thanks for sharing. A genuine question... I have usually used 22mm pipe to a bath tap because even filling a bath at mains pressure (pressurised system) with 15mm can take ages whilst 22mm give far greater flow and less filling time. Obviously if its gravity then you would definitely need 22mm. Any thoughts?
I don't think using 22mm pipe with a combi will make any difference when filling a bath (it might make a difference with an unvented cylinder). It will definitely make a difference on a gravity system though. Thanks for the comment
I bought mine from eBay, but there does not seem to be any for sale at the moment. There is one here, but it is not cheap- www.plumbingforless.co.uk/showers/shower-fixings/grohe-bracket-for-exposed-installation-for-bar-shower-valves-chrome-18153-000 Or you could get something like these- fave.co/3jNEvjH
Hello. Have you done a video on how to plumb in a bath-mounted tap? I'm in dire need of changing a bath and been wondering how to drill holes for my shower mixer so as not to damage by brand new acrylic bathtub. It would be a huge load off if I could follow one of your comprehensive tutorials ... BW
+Gabor Ludányi I'm afraid I have not done this yet. You should be able to do it using a good quality hole saw. Firstly I would use masking tape on the bath to protect the area where you are marking out. Find the exact centre of the bath where you will be drilling and then mark the two holes for drilling. Ensure you get the correct size holesaw and then drill a small pilot hole of approximately 4mm for each hole, then carefully go through with the holesaw- ruclips.net/video/aj12WdVhOCc/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman As always, you hit the nail on the head, as far as lay person's shortcomings are concerned, and right to the point! Thank You! Should I use a wood-bit for the pilot hole? As I take it, the drilling starts on the smooth side of the acrylic, rather than from underneath, right? KR
+Gabor Ludányi No, for the pilot hole I would use a metal drilling bit, such as HSS drill bit. Yes, always do the drilling from the smooth side down as the exit holes might be a bit rough. As long as you take your time with it I am sure it will be easy ;-) Thanks for the comments
how do you access the isolation valves. I am in the same boat with in wall tap for the laundry. Currently has no isolation valves but would like to add them in the wall before it goes to the in wall taps.
You can use treated timber if you like, but untreated timber will be fine. You only normally tank the walls, unless you are making a wet room (which I have never done before). Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks. I've used Yorkies before, they are nice and easy to use. Some plumbers don't trust them over end feed but perhaps that's just what they are used to. Any reason you don't use end feed or is just easier not to?
Yes, it is to stop the hot water from being forced into the cold supply, which could contaminate it. I guess you could just use a check valve on the cold water. Thanks for the comment
I'm not sure of the make of the shower unit, sorry. But the backplate is a Grohe shower backplate, there is a similar one here but I am not sure of the make- fave.co/2N8ZIop
+Gaurav Mishra This is copper pipe. It's widely used in the UK and comes in 15mm and 22mm diameters. Compression fittings are also widely available- ruclips.net/video/KOxZE4zL6rE/видео.html I'm not sure what pipe you use in India? but the chances are it will be a different diameter and not compatible.
+Ultimate Handyman Thanks for your reply! :-) We used to use iron pipes here but now CPVC are in trend. Though they are easy to cut it is certainly not easy to fix the already laid line under bricks, mortar and cement. The reason is quickly setting adhesive. By the time you think of fixing a union or socket between 2 parts of pipes, and you think of sliding the socket deep onto the one side and then sliding it back again to the other side, either it is fixed or even though we slide it to the other side, there is a leakage (adhesive at the other side is already set by then) and you need to take this thing(socket, union) out (if it is still possible) or cut the pipe again and do the same exercise until you succeed. Its a school project we used to play with straws only diff is, this time straws are not flexible. Plastic or CPVC pipes break easily and are difficult to repair under ground. But they are in fashion because its easy for plumbers to lay the new line. We can't afford copper here.. so there is somethind needed here that should be strong (to stay for years under ground like CPVC ) and abit flexible. The fittings you are doing are the best part. If you get a chance, could you try using these fittings with CPVC pipes? This certainly will help us to get rid of messy (it takes out the topmost layer of skin each time you use it and gloves are not in use at all) adhesive. Thanks for the Video.
+Gaurav Mishra Thanks for the detailed answer ;-) I don't think CPVC is used in the UK. For cold water pipes laid underground we use MDPE ruclips.net/video/JjIp8ImrHpk/видео.html Once the water gets into the property we either use copper or plastic pipe, which can be connected to each other using either push fit fittings or compression fittings. ruclips.net/video/7KlF4ohno0U/видео.html We do have solvent weld pipe in the UK, but it's normally only used for waste water in properties (after it has been used for washing etc.) ruclips.net/video/nffe3dzegcg/видео.html I can imagine it being difficult using solvent weld in some situations!
Hi there - great video - still really useful after nearly 5 years! 1 question - what is the little screw on the double check valve for? Thanks for sharing!
why do you need a double check valve ???? and you should always use solvent weld waste fittings especially under your shower where it is hard to access in the event of leak, definitely NOT push fittings as shown, just saying m8, that's all
The double check valve prevents the hot water from mixing with the cold, which could potentially cause problems. I've seen solvent weld fittings leak ;-)
Im trying to replace my bath/shower mixer but cant get in at the fucking pipe for the tap closest the wall. whoever built the place must have been a fucking contortionist. :(
Just to counter that, being a DIY plumber I would always recommend doing all plumbing work yourself, except for anything with gas boilers. If you make a mistake you get a leak, you turn off the water and then go fix it. If a plumber makes a mistake you have to beg him to come back to fix it and while you wait you have no heating/hot water and/or half your home ruined in the meantime. This excellent video is proof that anyone can do it.
Those joints wont come undone unless you want them to.Really appreciate your honesty at the end.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Very glad you pointed that out, would've made the same mistake myself if it wasn't for that bit at the end. top bloke.
Have using your videos as a "Jogger" as I intend to renew our bathroom soon, it's been about 15 years as it was a brand new build, the videos have proven to be of great help as Building Regs have moved on, so has the equipment available to the general handyman, it's easy to critic I notice that 44 persons who have watched this video well all I can say to them is "If you can do better, then please post your video for us to critic" trouble is you have made it look all so very simple thats because you have gone to great lengths to prepare which is much appreciated, you are a Man who believes in the 6 P's Thank you for all your time and effort
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
57 thumbs down ? Why ? .
Another great video , clear , informative and an enjoyable watch .
frank1847 because of things like not using jointing compound on the compression fittings
That's because the compression fitting manufacturers tell you not to use jointing compound ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Ive never seen a plumber deburr a pipe after using a slice
Great video. I don’t get the people who hate an informative video like this. Ignore them, I know you do anyway and good that you can 👏
Sorry something went wrong & didn't get to finish my comment. Anyway what I was going to say was thank you so much for making a very well made and informative video. Also thanks for being so honest and explaining the mistake you made at the end of the video it shows the type of person you are, as you didn't need to show that ( no one would have known ) . Look forward to seeing more of your videos, thanks again
Great video. Looked all over for this setup. Thanks so much.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Cheers for the video. I've never done any pipe work before and this was very easy to follow and understand. Thanks a bunch!
UkFisherman81lb You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Hi, I am trying to replace my old double-tap with a mixer in the bathroom. I wonder if you can give me the name of the red rounded tool for cutting the copper pie. If I can use other means please advise. Thanks
@@takeoboy They have a few names, such as "automatic copper pipe cutter", but are often just called a "Pipeslice" - fave.co/3mKj6w8
Have to say that was an easy to follow video, by a proffesional
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Very useful video thanks
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, really helpful- thanks!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Exceptional teaching skills and good editing. Thanks so much. More!
We thought you were from Lancashire as my Mam lives in Rawtenstall and we hear a lot of folk talk with that twang. Keep up the good work.
I did a plumbing course at the local college and they we're anti speed and pushfit and pro solder.
I'm happy I learnt to solder but I still can't help thinking it's "the hard way". The only advantage I see is that copper looks better? perhaps there's some legal requirement for it or something.
again, good video, i like the way you don't gloss over anthing, seem to have a good eye for what could catch out a novice even though it's a doddle for you.
I have a Combi and pressure is ok, I will give it a go.
Cheers for advice! Much appreciated.
bloody great vid mate gj, doin my shed up with shower much easyer now:)
Nice video, good help with my training
mr michael You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Very nice work.
Thanks for video teaching.
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION. MANY THANKS
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
very excellent explanation thank you very much for posting
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Excellent video.
Very clear and easy to follow, doesn't skip over anything.
I'm baffled by the 83 Thumbs down.
Thank you.
Thumbs down are quite normal, even the very best videos get them. One explanation was that sometimes people using mobile phones hit the wrong button ;-)
Thanks again for the comment
I have been a plumber for 39 years and would never use those small ball type isolation valves on a shower especially with a combi boiler. They could restrict the flow to the shower and could actually turn the gas off on the boiler through lack of flow pressure on the hot domestic out.I would always use 15 mm gate valves,fully open.
Just a word of warning if you do mix up the pipes to a shower and run hot water through it the wrong way,there is a strong possibility you have already damaged the thermostat and find you would have to replace it.Could be expensive.
so 39 years of experience and you would use gate valves on a pressurised system. you should know gate valve are for gravity fed systems. they are not ment for higher pressure as they are shite.
+Gary Cormack Don't be silly the domestic pipes to a shower are NOT part of the pressurised system .YES.39 years I DO know what I'm talking about,you clearly do not.!
+graham brown so you're saying hot and cold from a combi, which would be mains pressure isn't a a pressurised system? gravity hot water isn't, mains is!
Just a tip, when you cut a pipe with a pipe slice, there is no burr on the outside. You just need to deburr the inside of the pipe. ;o)
Good for you keeping your "big mistake" in the video ;)
After seeing this i really think Carpenters & joiners are so much more talented.
Thanks for your valuable time
thiru h
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Did you fit the non return valve to the hot feed before the mixer? Or to both hot and cold feeds?
Love your work and watched plenty of your videos. I'm currently doing plumbing level 2, with every compression fitting or anywhere I use an olive I've been taught to add PTFE, also not to over-tighten the fitting as this can cause a leak, tip for your viewers?
Great video. Might have a crack when I do my bathroom video. cheers
+Andy Robson You are welcomeThanks for the comment
You might have made an excellent heart surgeon in a different life
Not sure about that LOL
Great Video - Very clear and really helpful - Cheers!!
great video, cheers.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
You should put the service valve below the double check valve. For maintenance purposes on either the check valve or mixer shower etc... otherwise you cant isolate the check valve without switching off the mains.
Being a professional plumber I wouldnt recommend doing any work like this unless qualified. Reason being if anything goes wrong the price of the job would quadrouple when you have to call an emergency plumber!!
Good general advice though. Keep it up :0)
Have just watched this video, and have never posted any comments on anything ever before, but just have to with this video.
Pressure reducing valve, or a mixer that does not mix in the body of the tap but on the exit point. Failing that run an indirect feed from the cwsc. which must be below the hotwater draw off point on the cwsc.
nice thank you so much very very helpfull vid thanks again...
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
@ultimatehandyman Just thought that in this type you does not use copper solder. Where i can show your job from the initial stage,because am interested in restoring an old bathroom. Thanks nice job!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video,dont mean to criticise but the hot feed shouls be above the cold feed shouldnt it? as heat rises and can cause the temperature in the cold pipes to rise causing bacteria to occur. i know it would be unlikely in this circumstance as its mainly on heating purposes but just thought id point out. Great video though!!
Thanks.
Sorry wasn't very clear, just done a little digging on google, I think i mean a compression equal tee. Basically I want to run the pipes to the taps and then onto the bar shower, will the equal tee work or do I need something else. Thanks again
What is diameter of the copper tube you use? Who guarantees us that these two valves under the floor when destroyed (mineral salts and water electrolysis) will be able to check them or replace them. Otherwise I like the job you do.
Good video!!
Thanks for the comment
Great video, I'm looking at putting an en-suite in my bedroom and I like your no nonsense approach. Where are you from by the way? Me and the wife were wondering because of your accent.
The service valve is below the check valve.
really helpfull thanks
how much thread sticks out from the finished tile?
I notice you bend the pipes to run up the wall, being a novice would elbow values work for me instead.
I also want to install a bar shower, can I use a splitter value?
Thanks for any advice.
thanks, very helpful and easy watching, can you tell me how tight do you do up the nut over the olive? until its imposable to turn any more? also should plumbers tape be used? i keep seeing different things on diff vids i watch.... thanks
79holdentorana
You should not need PTFE tape with compression fittings, it is just not necessary.
The nuts need to be tight enough to compress the olive, which can be difficult if brass olives are used, which is why I prefer copper olives. I normally use long spanners when tightening the nuts as a lot of force is required- even more so with brass olives.
Is there any way I can find out why hot water comes out from the shower and spout at the same time? And when I want to use the shower head it still spills from the spout too, then it takes half an hour until the hot water returns.
Is it a shower mixer like the one in this video- ruclips.net/video/XcloESrxbnk/видео.html
If it is, I think there is an "O" ring seal at the end. You should be able to unscrews the knob on the end and then remove a nut with a spanner and the valve should pull out.
I'm about to install the same type of shower bath, never been able to get those compression fittings sorted,either tighten too much or not enough and have leaks, what do you think of pushfit connectors?
Pushfit are fine as long as they are used correctly- If using copper pipe ensure it is de-burred correctly, if it's plastic ensure you use a pipe insert.
Thanks for the video.
With a mixer tap both the hot and cold supplies have to be of equal pressure but all too often in the UK we have high pressure cold from mains and a low pressure hot water from a hot water cylinder fed from a tank in the roof. How do you get over that problem?
Open the tap less ....
Ideally, shouldn't the cold pipework be under the hot, or does it not matter? Thanks for the video!
+Tom Harris
Ideally it should, but in our old house the hot was under the cold and the heat transfer between them was negligible.
Why is it important to de-bur a pipe when the end isn't going to be touching any washers? Surely the pipe touching the inside of the compression fitting isn't going to bother anything?
It can cause problems with turbulence/noise/reduction in flow etc.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Why do you fit the compression valve/non return valve as well as the flow valve? I can understand the reason for the flow valve. I’ve already purchased 1 for every pipe in the bathroom I’m renovating but what’s the purpose of the compression valve?
The non return valve (check valves) have to be installed on showers to prevent backflow and also the possibility of the hot water getting forced into the cold water (drinking water)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for the response... After doing a spot of googling I bought 7 non return valves... I’m currently using nearly every video in the replace a bathroom playlist 👍🏼
@@jaysysumakaRatMaster3 No problem. You only need the non return valves on the shower (as far as I am aware)
Good luck with it ;-)
I have two bathrooms to replace here when I get chance- but I keep putting it off ;-)
Great video, very educational. We are re-fitting our shower valve as well, should we use PTFE tapes on brass bush - brass nipple joint? Very confused but couldn't find info anywhere. Cheers.
If you mean on a compression fitting where the olive grips the pipe there is no need to use PTFE tape, but it won't do any harm if you have used it.
Why you deburring a pipe cut with slices going into a compression fitting?
+taitlawrence
I believe you are supposed to deburr all pipes before making any type of joint as the burrs can later work loose from the pipe and enter the drinking water.
It's more for the inside of the pipe. If you are running a shower of a combi boiler you really want as little restriction on the flow of water as possible. Full bore isolators should be used.
Can i ask how we would go about fitting a shower at the opposite end from the taps where there is more space to fix it to the wall?
You can tee into the existing pipes from the hot and cold supply and then it's pretty much the same as this video. You would probably have to cross the hot and cold pipes over though to get them in the correct place on the shower.
Love your channel and thanks for sharing. A genuine question... I have usually used 22mm pipe to a bath tap because even filling a bath at mains pressure (pressurised system) with 15mm can take ages whilst 22mm give far greater flow and less filling time. Obviously if its gravity then you would definitely need 22mm. Any thoughts?
I don't think using 22mm pipe with a combi will make any difference when filling a bath (it might make a difference with an unvented cylinder). It will definitely make a difference on a gravity system though.
Thanks for the comment
Nice video with a lot of good explanation but I have one question can you surface mount the bar valve.Thanks
Not this particular one, although you can buy them for surface fixing (which are often used with chrome pipe)
great contents , but where can i get this wall mounted things
I bought mine from eBay, but there does not seem to be any for sale at the moment. There is one here, but it is not cheap- www.plumbingforless.co.uk/showers/shower-fixings/grohe-bracket-for-exposed-installation-for-bar-shower-valves-chrome-18153-000
Or you could get something like these- fave.co/3jNEvjH
Hello. Have you done a video on how to plumb in a bath-mounted tap? I'm in dire need of changing a bath and been wondering how to drill holes for my shower mixer so as not to damage by brand new acrylic bathtub. It would be a huge load off if I could follow one of your comprehensive tutorials ... BW
+Gabor Ludányi
I'm afraid I have not done this yet. You should be able to do it using a good quality hole saw.
Firstly I would use masking tape on the bath to protect the area where you are marking out. Find the exact centre of the bath where you will be drilling and then mark the two holes for drilling. Ensure you get the correct size holesaw and then drill a small pilot hole of approximately 4mm for each hole, then carefully go through with the holesaw- ruclips.net/video/aj12WdVhOCc/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman As always, you hit the nail on the head, as far as lay person's shortcomings are concerned, and right to the point! Thank You! Should I use a wood-bit for the pilot hole? As I take it, the drilling starts on the smooth side of the acrylic, rather than from underneath, right? KR
+Gabor Ludányi
No, for the pilot hole I would use a metal drilling bit, such as HSS drill bit.
Yes, always do the drilling from the smooth side down as the exit holes might be a bit rough.
As long as you take your time with it I am sure it will be easy ;-)
Thanks for the comments
+Ultimate Handyman Much appreciated. Thanks! BW
+Gabor Ludányi
You are welcome ;-)
Just out of curiosity, is PEX pipe common in the UK?
how do you access the isolation valves. I am in the same boat with in wall tap for the laundry. Currently has no isolation valves but would like to add them in the wall before it goes to the in wall taps.
If I remember rightly I placed them under the bath, so I can simply remove the bath panel.
Thanks for the comment
Do you use treated timber stud for the walls and do you tank just the walls or do you usually tank the floors and ceiling?
You can use treated timber if you like, but untreated timber will be fine.
You only normally tank the walls, unless you are making a wet room (which I have never done before).
Thanks for the comment
how come u didnt use any jointing compound on those compression joints......is it not necessary???
I never use it- ruclips.net/video/KOxZE4zL6rE/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
No copper soldering?????????
Do you ever use soldered connections, do you trust compression fittings?
Yes, but I always use solder ring fittings- ruclips.net/video/7zlDHA3KhLA/видео.html&t
Compression fittings are absolutely fine 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks. I've used Yorkies before, they are nice and easy to use. Some plumbers don't trust them over end feed but perhaps that's just what they are used to. Any reason you don't use end feed or is just easier not to?
@@plummetplum I just find solder ring fittings easier.
My mate prefers end feed, and even runs a bead of solder over solder ring fittings!
Why u need a check valve is it regs?
Yes, it is to stop the hot water from being forced into the cold supply, which could contaminate it.
I guess you could just use a check valve on the cold water.
Thanks for the comment
Looks like odd screws fixing the back plate - did you lose one?
It didn't come with screws. I will have just used what I had out of the several cases of screws that I own ;-)
I think he is talking about the 50 to 40mm reducer you have on the waste. Other than that I aint got a clue what he's talking about.
what is the make model of this shower unit please? I am looking for that back plate where you fitted the cooper pipes.
I'm not sure of the make of the shower unit, sorry.
But the backplate is a Grohe shower backplate, there is a similar one here but I am not sure of the make- fave.co/2N8ZIop
Do you not need PTF tape round the olive
No, the olive is designed to make the seal, once it is compressed using the nuts
ruclips.net/video/6PR0zTU_v30/видео.html
Thanks for the comment
No soldering, correct?
That is correct, this uses compression fittings.
ruclips.net/video/KOxZE4zL6rE/видео.html
Are all the shower mixers the same size?
+Alan Jones
No, but many are a similar size.
Many of them are interchangeable as long as you get one with the same hole centres.
which pipe is this? is it a copper pipe? or CPVC? and these connecters are better.. Why don't we have them here in India? how can we get them?
+Gaurav Mishra
This is copper pipe. It's widely used in the UK and comes in 15mm and 22mm diameters. Compression fittings are also widely available- ruclips.net/video/KOxZE4zL6rE/видео.html
I'm not sure what pipe you use in India? but the chances are it will be a different diameter and not compatible.
+Ultimate Handyman Thanks for your reply! :-) We used to use iron pipes here but now CPVC are in trend. Though they are easy to cut it is certainly not easy to fix the already laid line under bricks, mortar and cement. The reason is quickly setting adhesive. By the time you think of fixing a union or socket between 2 parts of pipes, and you think of sliding the socket deep onto the one side and then sliding it back again to the other side, either it is fixed or even though we slide it to the other side, there is a leakage (adhesive at the other side is already set by then) and you need to take this thing(socket, union) out (if it is still possible) or cut the pipe again and do the same exercise until you succeed. Its a school project we used to play with straws only diff is, this time straws are not flexible. Plastic or CPVC pipes break easily and are difficult to repair under ground. But they are in fashion because its easy for plumbers to lay the new line. We can't afford copper here.. so there is somethind needed here that should be strong (to stay for years under ground like CPVC ) and abit flexible. The fittings you are doing are the best part. If you get a chance, could you try using these fittings with CPVC pipes? This certainly will help us to get rid of messy (it takes out the topmost layer of skin each time you use it and gloves are not in use at all) adhesive. Thanks for the Video.
+Gaurav Mishra
Thanks for the detailed answer ;-)
I don't think CPVC is used in the UK.
For cold water pipes laid underground we use MDPE ruclips.net/video/JjIp8ImrHpk/видео.html
Once the water gets into the property we either use copper or plastic pipe, which can be connected to each other using either push fit fittings or compression fittings.
ruclips.net/video/7KlF4ohno0U/видео.html
We do have solvent weld pipe in the UK, but it's normally only used for waste water in properties (after it has been used for washing etc.)
ruclips.net/video/nffe3dzegcg/видео.html
I can imagine it being difficult using solvent weld in some situations!
Need a new pipe cutter and deburrer. Also it's not a copper olive its brass
The olives in this video were copper ;-)
Hi there - great video - still really useful after nearly 5 years! 1 question - what is the little screw on the double check valve for? Thanks for sharing!
I think it is there so that you can remove the screw for cleaning the valve out if it becomes blocked, but I'm not 100 % sure.
OK - thanks for answer!
Solder all the way for me can't fully trust compression fittings on water or gas.
Compression are fine if they are used correctly on water or gas.
Thanks for the comment
Where do you buy that cutter
They are widely available in plumbers merchants and online, places such as Screwfix sell them etc.
Where do you buy the back plate?
I got mine from eBay fave.co/2j1zrLl
why do you need a double check valve ???? and you should always use solvent weld waste fittings especially under your shower where it is hard to access in the event of leak, definitely NOT push fittings as shown, just saying m8, that's all
The double check valve prevents the hot water from mixing with the cold, which could potentially cause problems.
I've seen solvent weld fittings leak ;-)
How much does a job like this cost?
I have no idea, sorry.
I did this in my own home.
Im trying to replace my bath/shower mixer but cant get in at the fucking pipe for the tap closest the wall. whoever built the place must have been a fucking contortionist. :(
I see ,,,