Replacing Shower Valve Through The Hole
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2022
- Sometimes you have to put your skills to the test. Replacing a shower valve through the hole of the tub/shower surround is one of those cases. We didn't want to disturb the wall behind the valve as it was wall papered and would be very tough, if not outright impossible to patch. Thankfully there was room in the wall and flex in the pipes to make this job relatively easy. Enjoy!
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Masterful job !! Not many young plumbers of the propress generation would even attempt it or even old plumbers for that matter. Congratulations. You are very nice young man and excellent plumber.
Thank you, I very much appreciate that!
If i were going to do that job i would charge double, and it would take me about 3hours to get that small hole done, one time i got to a jobsite and it was galvy pipe i was going to cut hole in the back drywall but i was too lazy i just tell him to call someone else, im not doing that today.
I’m a Master Plumber from Louisville & I am totally impressed, total patience,I would have went thru the other side of wall w access panel but that was a professional job
Thank God you cleaned it up and caulked at the very end...I was gettin' worried! The skill is in the installation...the workmanship is in the finish. Great job, young man! A pleasure to watch!
This whole video gave me anxiety 😂. Great work!
From one plumber to another, excellent work sir. Your a great plumber.
This job takes more patience than I’m willing to have
That's exactly how far I got. Bought the springs, rubber seals, and the silicone grease then the metal dome was corroded and seized up on the faucet, wouldn't budge. I would have twisted all of the plumbing pipes into a pretzel before it would have broke loose.
If you’re ever doing another one of these old deltas, and the cap nut is stuck never force it or the tubes will break 10/10 times. Try tapping on the nut with two pairs of chanellocks on each side. Also when trying to take the nut off, always grab it by the very end where there is no knurling. When you grab it by the knurling it crushes it and makes it even tighter. If all else fails cut off the cap with a cheese saw and get a new cap, hope thats helps. Im also a plumber in CT and see these deltas on a regular basis
Using channel lock pliers was his first mistake. They squeeze the ring and lock it tighter to the valve. It's better to use a strap or pipe wrench.
Incredible job sir!! You clearly have a great skill set. I was totally impressed and your skill, attention to detail and patience. I wish your company was nearby. Thanks for sharing this video.
Great workmanship! A tough job made to look simple. Hats off!
Excellent work. I was very nervous at first cause I wasn’t sure how you’d do it. Fabulous
Wow 😮 great job !! Beautifully executed 🎉🎉🎉🎉
I am watching this as my handyman is struggling even with a much bigger oval hole.
Young man that was such an awesome job!!!!
A lot of plumbers should have so much patience as you my friend excellent job, your future is very bright !!!👍
I wish you were in my neighborhood I would hire you in a heartbeat!!!🤙
Great to see how it's done. The old joint likely was due to lead rather than the antimony. Lead/tin is even easier to get a tight joint with less heat. I just cut out a tube into a street elbow in a tight space, it fell apart as I cut it, only 1/16 inch of the tube was in and it held leak tight for 30 years before it started to leak.
I carry a dental mirror to inspect my solder joints where I can't see behind , try it . Very good job .
You continue to amaze me. Most plumbers would not attempt to do that through the valve hole. But you did. Very neat work. Impressed how you put a cloth down before starting. So many other RUclips rough plumbers don’t care about things like that and generally let the homeowner do the cleaning up.
I live in cape May nj. Wish you were closer. Joe.
Gave me the confidence to tackle this myself!
Incredible job. This man is very talented
The valve body inlets were outside threaded, so I would have assumed I needed to screw on a "screw-to-sweat" adaptor. I had no idea you could just sweat a 1/2" pipe right into those inlets. But I'm not a plumber. It that common/normal? Avoiding the screw-on adapter sure saves worry about leaking at the threads!
You could have also used a torch on the bonnet nut and loosened it easier. Done it many times.
Thank you for this video. This is exactly what I’m going through with one of my bathroom but I’m not a plumber like this guy here so I’m going to get the Moen retrofit trim so I can cut the hole bigger in the front so I have more space so solder.
Smart! Using that faceplate will make your life much easier!
Nice job.
Got to use a strap wrench on delta retainer nuts. Pliers pinch. You need even pressure all the way around to remove.
Excellent job in such a small tight space !!
Excellent job 👏
I have an old American standard valve that no new trim kits will fit, so need to replace the flash rough in valve. Wondering if the majority of plumbers I would call would even attempt this since I do have a closet wall behind it that could be cut into for easier access. I guess I should be looking for a trim kit that will allow them to cut a fairly large opening to increase the chances. Great work.
That was crazy insane good job
Awesome
Excellent!
great job...must have got burn some,tanks for sharing
Thanks! Some how I managed to get away burn free this time, although I did brush against a hot pipe once or twice!
Bruh, I’m not a plumber but I’m learning a few things about it. But, this job… I would have paid the customer to find another plumber to finish it. 😢😊
However, you did a remarkable job!
I didn't see, but did you need to clean up the new valve before soldering also. Just bought a new Moen from plumbing supplier and looks a bit nasty!?
Some heat and some patience might have saved twisting the feed pipes and been a faster and less expensive job
You are a master
Outstanding 48:37
the valve looked unsupported (not screwed down to a cross-member stud, which SHOULD be there) which means the valve will always feel loose when activated, and is also prone to failing over time. The right way to do this is to open up the other side of the wall, install the cross-member, then patch the drywall. Really, the cross-member should have already been there, but when in isn't one MUST be installed.
That's what I was thinking 🤔....he was probably trying to save the homeowners money.
AGREED!
are you serious? The escutcheon plate will hold it in place mr plumber
Just superglue
Haa haa
what was the valve you installed ... Delta? If so what model. Thanks
I have the same one but can't find that same cartridge. Any idea where I can get it?
Haha your gonna have a bunch of plumbers swearing at you because their customers saw this and think swapping a valve from the front like that is easy 🤣 and you didn't even use a Reno plate! great job man !!! 👏👏
Bad installation. Theres no backing and no backing plate. That valve is NOT secure. Its loose. You could pull it out. Garbage plumber. I could’ve repaired the original without issue. This guy is a scammer
And he broke the old valve like a newbie homeowner
Bro, you are a freaking pro, nice clean work! I hope the owners apricate your work. What vale brand do you prefer for quality and reliability?
The owner happened to have this one on hand so I installed it for them. Typically I recommend Moen, especially on well water.
My experience Moen tends to fail more in certain areas even with well water. In Midwest especially Wisconsin they corrode to crap.....making simple repairs hours long. The cartridge in delta is much easier to replace.
What torch tip do you use?
Not an easy job your a pro! Curious what is the going price for something like that?
The owner supplied the valve. Labor plus the few parts I used ended up being just over $300
Thanks for posting this video! You are the only one that I could find that even attempted to do this! Everyone else cuts a giant hole and puts a big, ugly chrome trim piece!
I had 2 of these to do. One I could have opened the wall up behind it and one that butted up against the other fiberglass tub / shower so not an option. I didn't really want to use that big, ugly chrome piece to cover a big hole that would have needed to be cut. My valve was very similar to this one except no integrated shut off stops. I used a thin wall mount to make sure the valve was tight to the fiberglass. I spent close to 4 hours on each one.
I don't see in the video what keeps the valve from pulling forward. Is it just the pipes holding it in place?
I have the same issue as one of your fixes, no access behind the wall because another tub shower insert. You said you used a thin wall mount to secure the valve to the fiberglass? What did you use as the mount? And how did you secure it to the fiberglass? There's no strapping on the valve, the shower or tub spout either. And there's a stud that was hacked up right behind the valve (likely done to set the valve back in the wall slightly). I want to add better bracing but it's such a small hole, with little ability to push the valve in/back because the stud.
@@Greg-cs9uj
@Greg-cs9uj
Yes, I used a Delta Thin Wall mount kit. It's 2 pieces of thin plastic that sandwich the fiberglass. They screw to the plaster guard (plastic box ) provided with the Delta valve. I sweated all of the copper tubing and pressure tested for leaks. I then snapped the plaster guard on followed by one of the 2 plastic pieces behind the fiberglass and one in front. They secure with 4 screws total. The trim then goes on top of that.
The Delta spout came with a brass part that sweats to the copper. You then screw the spout onto that. It wouldn't seem like that is sturdy but it is. I wouldn't try to stand on the spout though! 😂
Good luck with your project!
What is a fair price to pay for something like this
Why and what do you use to clean the joint just after sweating the joints
I wipe the joint down with flux. It serves three purposes, firstly to provide a little extra flux in the event some burned away and it pushes the solder around to help seal up any imperfections. Secondly it is a means to strike off any excess solder so that you don't end up with a "grape" or lump of solder. Thirdly it cleans off oxides and decolorization of the copper from the heating process. Then once the solder has solidified, but while its still hot, I wipe the joint with a rag to clean the flux off and prevent rapid oxidation of the copper.
@@GodwinAndSons Thanks for your reply. You are a craftsman indeed. I am a jack of all trades. My profession is bridge building. It is nice to see other craftsmen who take their profession to heart.
Hello sir
Is there any chance to leak in future if I do this procedure trough the hole?
if it doesn't leak within the first little while of pressurization then its no more likely to leak than any other sweat fitting.
is this how all valves would look like? Ive never replaced one before and im scared to order these parts from amazon that cost like 150$ just for it not to work in my shower
👍
Impressive... What's the price on a job like this?
The new valve was supplied by the owner, so for the few parts and labor it was just over $300. Prices have gone up so as of now it would be just over $350.
@@GodwinAndSons I see. I spoke to a plumber and he told me it would run me about $550 to do that same job...
I thought once the shower valve is installed, its installed for life and you need only to replace the cartridge when it doesn't work properly. So, why is this plumber replacing the shower valve?
I tried replacing the cartridge at the beginning, but the bonnet nut was seized and twisted the valve body, so at the point replacement was the only option.
I need to replace mine because it's not pressure balanced. My wife doesn't like when she's in the shower and someone uses the sink in the kitchen and she gets scalded.
Same thing happened to mine. Planned on replacing the cartridge but the threads on the collar holding the cartridge were seized. The 3 copper tubes on the back are pretty flimsy, and twisted when I tried to break it loose. Even with a second pair of pliers holding the valve body. This was some fine work, and a great value at $300.
@@sni1144 next time take a hacksaw blade to the bonnet nut. Just take your time with it. Ive seen a few people twist the tubes on those older deltas
😀
Super Job
Use WD40 first
How much would you charge for doing two of these, in my case one is a shower and the other is a tub. Both would be done through the hole? I’m a handyman just trying to get a rough estimate on what to charge. Just for labor?
You destroyed that fixture by applying too much torque. If it was that stuck, you should have used a hack saw to cut the ring off, thereby saving the fixture. Several other people have demonstrated that procedure in other videos here.
It was being replaced - he cut it to pieces. There was no "saving the fixture".
Wrong. He stated right at the beginning that there was a leak and he was hoping to just replace "internals" He did not want to replace the whole valve assembly initially, but then had to because he destroyed it. @@jackpine4347
Wrong. He stated right at the beginning that there was a leak and he was hoping to just replace "internals" He did not want to replace the whole valve initially.@@jackpine4347
ten system jest tak debilny że az głowa boli W europie myśla i mają to rozwiązanie logiczne i praktyczne
You mumbled through the entire video. I think you will get more views if you do better on your audio.
True 19:46