No one can fit 35's on a 4runner without getting rub. My experience? 33s, bmc, fender liner removal, pinch weld, - 25 rrw beadlocks, double strut mod, +700lb constant load springs, 3.5" lift, diff drop, and guess what? Still rubs on full compression at speed on the flat pinch weld. Sure you can squeeze those 35s in there. They will rub. 100% chance of rub.
I really like how simple your rig looks, but how much effort you put into actual capabilities. These are my favorite type of builds to see. The "overlanding" scene is getting to be much like the ricer scene that took over underground racing years ago. It's refreshing to see a video like this.
Thank you. Unfortunately I’m going overland. Got the front bumper now and rear should be in any day. I’m more about function that looks though. So we’ll see what happens. Thanks for watching!
@@DBCoffroad I can dig it. Overlanding is awesome. I guess what meant was rolling around in a Toyota with "raptor lights", empty fuel cans mounted on every window, and a rooftop tent that only gets used in your front yard for the gram!!!! Lol. I just like busting chops. Anyway your rig is awesome.
@DBC Offroad if you are more about function than looks, I just got a 4runner and come from the backpacking and canoe tripping world. I would love to trade knowledge. For example, Roof Top tents are just ridiculous IMO. I have a 3 person tent that weighs 22 ounces, I can set it up about as quick as a RTT, it can take 60+ mph winds, I don't need to pack it up to drive off, and the sleep system inside weighs next to nothing - yet is comfortable. Everything fits in a backpack, on carry on, in a canoe, etc. To get good, light, comfortable gear you spend money, but compared to a RTT you save. Unless you are camping where crocodiles can't get up that high, a RTT is not for function. It just looks like a cool tree fort. Of course I also look at overland gear too and take the best from that world - I won't be using a tiny backpack stove for example. But, I've had ice cream 4 days into a 2 week canoe trip with dry ice, and steak at safe temps a week and a half in. So, IMO why get a tiny fridge requiring power, an extra battery, electric run, etc? Get a nice yeti or Rtic cooler. A new company called Canyon supposedly has a better design than yeti, and cheaper. And, you can leave it out of your vehicle if it is locked (I use a bolt/nut - if the lock gets jammed you are screwed, and if bears start using tools, we are all doomed) - less risk of a bear trying to tear open your car.
9:02 Thank you for doing this! So many folks have the misconception that a lift solves IFS clearance issues when all it really does is clear the tires at static ride height. If you're actually going to use your suspension's articulation, then it's very likely your tires are going to tuck back in to where they were pre-lift. If it doesn't clear at full bump, it's not cleared! (Unless you're just mall crawling of course) This was a great step by step in the process of minimizing interference with bigger tires. I appreciate the lessons learned about removing the flares and trimming them separately from the fenders as well. Thanks again!
Wheel offset makes a huge difference. You should check out Tinkerer's Adventure videos. He goes into better engineering. It's possible to not have to trim as much with a positive or zero offset wheel. Good Luck!
I upgraded to 35x10s about 6 weeks ago and I started like you, trying to just trim a little hear and there. I had my BMC recut and also hammered on the tub to make some more room. I got it to where it was not rubbing for street driving, but the moment I went off-road and flexed, it crunched my passenger side fender. I finally gave in and started doing the fender cut from Trail4R. I have both fender flares cut and the fender itself cut, as well as made some new brackets to hold the bottom of the fender. Gotta do a little clean-up and then repair the tabs I broke on the fender flare when I removed it (those things are barely attached) and the it should be good to go! Oh, and I ditched the fender liners entirely. I might spray some underbody coating in there. Haven't decided yet.
Hi Chad, what offset do you have on your wheels? I'm considering going 35x10's as well and am still figuring out what offset is best for maximizing clearance
Thank you for documenting and showing this process to us. I currently have true 33s on a 0 offset wheel. Tried spacers d/t spc arms rubbing and begun to rub on the sway bar and body mounts. I wheel hard as well and my SPCs got shot in 20k miles. Am happy with my accutune UCA and gives me a max caster of 3.9 degrees which I think is a sweet spot for caster. Have been planning to upgrade to 35s on the next tires but I think a 34 would give me wiggle room even after doing all the mods you did to accommodate a 35. I’m planning to use your video as a guide in the future. Thanks again for documenting and sharing your input in a constructive and easy to follow manner.
I'm not an expert, but I have researched this topic and I found a few things to consider: 1. What is a 35in tire? This may sound like a dumb question, but the specs I saw for the Klever indicated 34.8 diameter. While that is under 35, its a lot closer than some other manufacturers whose specs say their 35x12.5s are really 34.5 actual diameter or smaller. Generally, I hear people call 315/70-17 tires 35s when they are mostly around 34.4inch. 2. The wheel offset has a significant impact on the scrub radius. A lot of negative offset pushes the tire out increasing the space the outer shoulders of the tire take when the steering wheel is turned. 3. Adjustable upper control arms (ie the SPCs) have a slight ability to move the tire within the wheel well.
I totally agree. Most tires are slightly smaller than their claimed diameter. Like you said the 35” is really 34.8. Most people that put 34s on their Toyotas are really a 33.8 or something similar. I also agree with the offset. I have Relations Race Wheels RR6-H. They have a -25 offset (3.77” backspace) I like the slightly wider stance of the wheel/tire with -25. The Icon Rebounds I had previously were 0 offset (4.75” backspace). Even with these, trimming at full bump and lock would still be needed. Even after everything I’ve trimmed it’s still rubbing on the rear of the fender. 🤷🏻♂️ always a work in progress. The SPC upper arms help. From my research they help stuff a larger tire in the wheel well, at the sacrifice of altered Caster and slightly less front end handling. But I don’t have first hand experience with those. Again. It’s all an experiment. Shove some big tires under there and let me know how the experiment works out. I always want to learn more. Thanks for watching!
Great video, in depth look at how much work is needed to fit 35’s 👌🏻 Would love a walk around of your awesome rig and all the mods currently on your 4Runner 😀 Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I’ll have a walk around coming up after I get the rear bumper installed. I’ve been waiting about 10 weeks to get it so far. Should be here soon.
A critical part of modifying things is knowing when you get past the sweet spots. Diminishing returns is a thing. The first additional inch of ground clearance going from stock to 32-33s is basically free if you are careful with choices of wheels and such. I have 32.6” tires on my GX with absolutely zero modifications of any kind to suspension or plastic and NO RUBBING. The next inch of ground clearance (2” larger tire) produces essentially the butchery you saw here. I’m all about freedom and doing your own thing. But I’d strongly recommend against trying to duplicate the path demonstrated in this video because it’s extremely expensive, compromises the vehicle greatly, and produces very small performance improvements (if any) off road relative to a well set up 33” configuration (longer bump stops are evidence of worse performance through reduced flex and travel). Those last two inches of tire (for a measly inch of ground clearance) mean fragile axles, faster steering wear, heavily accelerated rust and corrosion from the chopping, considerable MPG loss, and many other problems that will pop up over time.
Upgrading the suspension and then limiting the up-travel? No the best idea IMHO. In my case, I installed a 1" body lift and I did not have any rubbing issues upper the tire. The only thing I had to deal with was pinch weld.
I did 3" lift and body chop. And 1"body lift . And extended bumpstops. To fit 35" 12.50 tires. Now i need gears. 5.29. After flexin in extremly build jeeps. And using my old sas 92 runner to get around tought me a few things... my stroker in my xj ran very warm.. when i pushed it .. hard to beat a Toyota thease days
@@DBCoffroad it works well. i had 5.29 and inchworm gears setup and cases and i had 5.29 with 35'' 12.50 i might use the wizard to find out if 4.88 or 5.29, now i got about as much power as a fart. . believe me when i say i have had a few rock crawlers with arb front back. dual cases.. sometimes i just smoged a rig then sold it . to restart a build. now i got a nice silver 2000 3rd gen , with trailgear.marlincrawler,all pro parts and e locker. and my 5th gen just needs sliders, messed my 5th up bad on cadillac hill last year. that bolder i got hung up on
Great video. I know it took a lot of time and effort to make it and share. Much appreciated. Right now I am watching 35s get installed on my 4Runner. Where did you get your spindles gussetted?
Hey thanks. Total Chaos Fabrication makes spindle gussets. A couple other companies do as well. I had Silver State Offroad weld them on when they did the gears.
I have 315/70/17, I have the exact same problems. I'm lower on my left side. I'm lifting on the left and trimming. 35s are way better imo. Even with the work
A big factor that I didn't really go over was the Offset on the wheels. I have a -25 Offset which makes them stick out more. I'm not sure how much you would have to trim with a 0 Offset wheel. Other people have done 1" body lifts or similar and used SPC Adjustable upper control arms. Regardless, I think you would still have to trim a little. 34s are honestly the sweet spot for 4Runners.
@@DBCoffroad I just don't see the need for 35 on a 4Runner and who wants to do a body chop and increase the roll over risk ? and who wants to re gear and get lousy MPG No question just my feelings
Would be interesting to see how 34s would fit. Like 34x 10.5x17 KO2s,and I think Kenda (edit: Toyo, not Kenda) may have thst size as well. Skinny so that'll help, and range D so abit lighter. Fits fine on my stock jk, just rubs slightly on the sway bars at full lock.
I have a -25 offset. So the tires stick out more. Which is the main cause of needing to cut. I like the stance better than 0 offset wheels. If you want to know the technical details if they will fit, what Tinker's Adventure video: ruclips.net/video/LAYGdcKSA3o/видео.html He breaks it down really well. Thanks for watching!
Looks like whole lot of work. Inexpensive solution is set caster as close to +3 as possible and get 1” wheel spacers and trim the front bumper. Expensive fix is TC UCA with heim joints and a wheel that has an aggressive offset (-38 will be your best bet).
Thanks for watching. It is a lot of work for sure. I didn’t mention in the video but the lower control arm is pushed as far forward as possible to make room for the larger tires. I also think wheel spacers or -35 would make the rubbing worse. Because then the tire would stick out more and contact the fender more. 0 offset/4.75”backspace wheels would rub the least. Except I just liked the additional stance of my -25 wheels. 34” would really be optimal. The upper control arms don’t matter so much unless you get the adjustable SPC arms.
Thanks for the video brother. I have a 21 venture with kdss. I have the same lift as you and was debating 35's. Looking back was it all worth it or should I just do the 34? How much was the re gearing? Ride is looking nice bro! Thanks!!
Thanks for comment! I like the excessiveness of having to do 35s. I don’t mind cutting and making it work. So I think it is worth it. If you don’t want to cut the fenders then go 33s/34s. ReGear is 100% worth it. Even if you just do 33s or 34s. I have 4.88 gears for the 35s but there are also 4.56 kits if you don’t want to go bigger. Gear install was about $1500. I also had them do the ARB Front locker. The ARB locker was $1049 + you have to get the compressor and compressor mount. Hope this helps. Thanks again for watching.
have you thought about a 1/2” body lift? i know on my 4th gen they have that option and you don’t have to modify anything. that would help with rubbing
I haven’t ever really been a fan of a body lift. The rubbing isn’t bad enough on the firewall for me to be really concerned. And so far the extended bump stops are working well.
I really like them. Donut Media's video is what got me interested: ruclips.net/video/Cdsf75RB3LM/видео.htmlsi=I-MRvzRuGFWOhRAm After watching it, I figured I'd give them a try. I'm a big fan of the Nitto Ridge grapplers but the Kenda RTs were so much less. I'm on my second set now. There's really only a few things I don't like: They are decent in snow, but they are not 3 Peak Snowflake rated so they are a little slippery on hard pack ice on pavement. The sidewall design is not my favorite. However, its super aggressive and protects really well against rocks when you air down. More than other offroad tires of similar Hybrid design. So it's really not a big deal. Honestly the only reason why I'd go with a different tire at this point is just the curiosity of trying something new/different. If I buy something else, I'd try the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs. Thanks!
@@DBCoffroadgotcha. Yeah the r/t is what I’ve been looking at. My ram Cummins has the 35” ridge grapplers and they’ve been great for towing my 40 foot fifth wheel across the country. I’ve considered the Baja boss, for the 4Runner but they are probably the heaviest tire out there. The Baja boss is also more expensive than my ridge grapplers. I’ve considered the max is razr at, but like the look of the r/t a little more. Thank you for the response.
Thanks for watching! 34s 1. I’d still space the bump stops. My 33s would rub on the inner metal fender at full compression. 2. You could get away with less fender metal trimming. I have a -25 offset on my new wheels. The old Icon wheels had a 0 offset, which I think would be perfect for reducing the trimming for 34s. 3. You’ll still have to do the body mount chop. I think that’s just inevitable with anything larger than 33” tires. I think 34s are the Perfect size for the 4Runners. 33s are a smidge small. And 35s take a lot of work and are still a smidge big. Hope this helps!
Good work man. I have RRW wheels and am getting 35" KM3's installed this morning. Do you have 0 offset, -12 or -25 wheels? Did you consider just lifting your front up another 1/2"-3/4" or so? I still have pretty good CV angles so wouldn't mind going up just a bit more, curious to how much I will have to trim. I have an SSO front bumper and installed the high clearance wings yesterday so no rubbing up front, also have a body mount chop and already trimmed the little bottom cap of the fender flares. But I only have -12 offset wheels so they don't stick out too far
Thanks for watching! I have -25 offset wheels. So they stick out a bit more. I have the ride height set where I like it. Driving on the pavement nothing really rubbed. It’s when the suspension articulated Offroad it caused problems. And I drive fast and want to crawl so I was going to have to clearance the fenders no matter what. This is just what worked for me. Thanks again!
Honestly not really. 32s are the biggest you can go without rubbing. When I put my 33s on the stock wheels, I had to trim about 1/4-1/2 inch off the front of the wheel well and take the mud flaps off. Its minimal trimming that no one would notice. If you are set on NOT trimming, just get a better 32" offroad tire and you will be good.
Dumb question: I used an old dremel to cut the front plastic fenders just fine but now I have to cut back metal part. What I used doesn’t seem like it’s made for metal, so what did you use to cut it? Any specific link?
I just used a corded Ryobi angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. Seemed to work ok. www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-5-5-Amp-Corded-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-AG4031G/205558109
Regrets going 35s or worth it? I'm planning to go 35s soon on my 5g. Also did you do body lift at all? I heard that helps a lot with rubbing prevention if you go 1" body lift
Umm. I don’t regret the regear. 100% worth it. A 34” tire would fit perfect as well. So 34s are the best option with no rubbing. My 35s still rub a little on the firewall, body mount and washer tank skid. But having done it I wouldn’t go smaller. There’s just a little more trimming and I think I’ll be ok with it. The 35s climb rocks better than the 33s for sure. Just depends on what you want to do and how wild you want to get.
Cutting? I like the 35s. I’d maybe try a different offset wheel and upper control arm for different caster so I could cut less. But I’d still want to shove too much tire in a small wheel well.
Not a fan of body lifts but you'll hack your fenders to hell?! I've got a 4" suspension lift and 1" body lift on my 5th Gen 4runner and all I had to do was BMC and viper cut, no rubbing. Do you dislike body lifts because of some BS you heard and now believe or something factual?
I see you’re not a fan of cutting. To each their own right? Everyone mods their rigs to their own taste. What kind of lift is the 4” lift? I don’t like body lifts from seeing others have issues with them. Gaps. Bent bolts. Body shifting forward on the frame. But that doesn’t happen to everyone. So it just comes down to personal preference. 🤷🏻♂️ Thanks for watching!
@@DBCoffroad It's an Icon suspension with toytec body lift...haven't had any problems but I'm running BFG K02 AT 35x12.5 which aren't really 35"...they measure out right at 34" running 35psi. To me, it just seems wiser to implement a small body lift, in conjunction with some adjustable control arms or something along those lines as opposed to hacking away at your vehicle...as you said, to each their own.
No one can fit 35's on a 4runner without getting rub. My experience? 33s, bmc, fender liner removal, pinch weld, - 25 rrw beadlocks, double strut mod, +700lb constant load springs, 3.5" lift, diff drop, and guess what? Still rubs on full compression at speed on the flat pinch weld. Sure you can squeeze those 35s in there. They will rub. 100% chance of rub.
If you’re not rubbing, are you even doing it right? 😂
I think if you run a 0 offset wheel you don't even need to BMC or correct of im wrong?
I really like how simple your rig looks, but how much effort you put into actual capabilities.
These are my favorite type of builds to see.
The "overlanding" scene is getting to be much like the ricer scene that took over underground racing years ago.
It's refreshing to see a video like this.
Thank you.
Unfortunately I’m going overland. Got the front bumper now and rear should be in any day. I’m more about function that looks though. So we’ll see what happens.
Thanks for watching!
@@DBCoffroad I can dig it.
Overlanding is awesome.
I guess what meant was rolling around in a Toyota with "raptor lights", empty fuel cans mounted on every window, and a rooftop tent that only gets used in your front yard for the gram!!!!
Lol. I just like busting chops. Anyway your rig is awesome.
@@txrunroutdoors Haha. There are a lot of Mall Crawler Overlanders for sure.
Yes
@DBC Offroad if you are more about function than looks, I just got a 4runner and come from the backpacking and canoe tripping world. I would love to trade knowledge.
For example, Roof Top tents are just ridiculous IMO. I have a 3 person tent that weighs 22 ounces, I can set it up about as quick as a RTT, it can take 60+ mph winds, I don't need to pack it up to drive off, and the sleep system inside weighs next to nothing - yet is comfortable. Everything fits in a backpack, on carry on, in a canoe, etc. To get good, light, comfortable gear you spend money, but compared to a RTT you save.
Unless you are camping where crocodiles can't get up that high, a RTT is not for function. It just looks like a cool tree fort.
Of course I also look at overland gear too and take the best from that world - I won't be using a tiny backpack stove for example. But, I've had ice cream 4 days into a 2 week canoe trip with dry ice, and steak at safe temps a week and a half in. So, IMO why get a tiny fridge requiring power, an extra battery, electric run, etc? Get a nice yeti or Rtic cooler. A new company called Canyon supposedly has a better design than yeti, and cheaper. And, you can leave it out of your vehicle if it is locked (I use a bolt/nut - if the lock gets jammed you are screwed, and if bears start using tools, we are all doomed) - less risk of a bear trying to tear open your car.
9:02 Thank you for doing this! So many folks have the misconception that a lift solves IFS clearance issues when all it really does is clear the tires at static ride height. If you're actually going to use your suspension's articulation, then it's very likely your tires are going to tuck back in to where they were pre-lift. If it doesn't clear at full bump, it's not cleared! (Unless you're just mall crawling of course)
This was a great step by step in the process of minimizing interference with bigger tires. I appreciate the lessons learned about removing the flares and trimming them separately from the fenders as well. Thanks again!
You’re welcome!
Yea there’s so much more work involved than most realize.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Im on 34s right now. About to start my trek to 35s.
Wheel offset makes a huge difference. You should check out Tinkerer's Adventure videos. He goes into better engineering. It's possible to not have to trim as much with a positive or zero offset wheel. Good Luck!
Hopefully the 6th gen can get a re-work done on the wheel wells for us to be able to fit 35’s without any trimming.
I hope so too!
What about gears?
I upgraded to 35x10s about 6 weeks ago and I started like you, trying to just trim a little hear and there. I had my BMC recut and also hammered on the tub to make some more room. I got it to where it was not rubbing for street driving, but the moment I went off-road and flexed, it crunched my passenger side fender. I finally gave in and started doing the fender cut from Trail4R. I have both fender flares cut and the fender itself cut, as well as made some new brackets to hold the bottom of the fender. Gotta do a little clean-up and then repair the tabs I broke on the fender flare when I removed it (those things are barely attached) and the it should be good to go!
Oh, and I ditched the fender liners entirely. I might spray some underbody coating in there. Haven't decided yet.
Yea I was thinking about pounding the tub. Does that work enough to matter?
Hi Chad, what offset do you have on your wheels? I'm considering going 35x10's as well and am still figuring out what offset is best for maximizing clearance
Thank you for documenting and showing this process to us. I currently have true 33s on a 0 offset wheel. Tried spacers d/t spc arms rubbing and begun to rub on the sway bar and body mounts. I wheel hard as well and my SPCs got shot in 20k miles. Am happy with my accutune UCA and gives me a max caster of 3.9 degrees which I think is a sweet spot for caster. Have been planning to upgrade to 35s on the next tires but I think a 34 would give me wiggle room even after doing all the mods you did to accommodate a 35. I’m planning to use your video as a guide in the future. Thanks again for documenting and sharing your input in a constructive and easy to follow manner.
What wore out on the SPC arms?
If I did it again I’d max out at 34” tires.
I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.
@@DBCoffroad their x-axis bushings
I'm not an expert, but I have researched this topic and I found a few things to consider: 1. What is a 35in tire? This may sound like a dumb question, but the specs I saw for the Klever indicated 34.8 diameter. While that is under 35, its a lot closer than some other manufacturers whose specs say their 35x12.5s are really 34.5 actual diameter or smaller. Generally, I hear people call 315/70-17 tires 35s when they are mostly around 34.4inch. 2. The wheel offset has a significant impact on the scrub radius. A lot of negative offset pushes the tire out increasing the space the outer shoulders of the tire take when the steering wheel is turned. 3. Adjustable upper control arms (ie the SPCs) have a slight ability to move the tire within the wheel well.
I totally agree.
Most tires are slightly smaller than their claimed diameter. Like you said the 35” is really 34.8.
Most people that put 34s on their Toyotas are really a 33.8 or something similar.
I also agree with the offset. I have Relations Race Wheels RR6-H. They have a -25 offset (3.77” backspace) I like the slightly wider stance of the wheel/tire with -25.
The Icon Rebounds I had previously were 0 offset (4.75” backspace). Even with these, trimming at full bump and lock would still be needed.
Even after everything I’ve trimmed it’s still rubbing on the rear of the fender. 🤷🏻♂️ always a work in progress.
The SPC upper arms help. From my research they help stuff a larger tire in the wheel well, at the sacrifice of altered Caster and slightly less front end handling. But I don’t have first hand experience with those.
Again. It’s all an experiment. Shove some big tires under there and let me know how the experiment works out. I always want to learn more.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, in depth look at how much work is needed to fit 35’s 👌🏻 Would love a walk around of your awesome rig and all the mods currently on your 4Runner 😀 Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I’ll have a walk around coming up after I get the rear bumper installed. I’ve been waiting about 10 weeks to get it so far. Should be here soon.
A critical part of modifying things is knowing when you get past the sweet spots. Diminishing returns is a thing. The first additional inch of ground clearance going from stock to 32-33s is basically free if you are careful with choices of wheels and such. I have 32.6” tires on my GX with absolutely zero modifications of any kind to suspension or plastic and NO RUBBING. The next inch of ground clearance (2” larger tire) produces essentially the butchery you saw here.
I’m all about freedom and doing your own thing. But I’d strongly recommend against trying to duplicate the path demonstrated in this video because it’s extremely expensive, compromises the vehicle greatly, and produces very small performance improvements (if any) off road relative to a well set up 33” configuration (longer bump stops are evidence of worse performance through reduced flex and travel). Those last two inches of tire (for a measly inch of ground clearance) mean fragile axles, faster steering wear, heavily accelerated rust and corrosion from the chopping, considerable MPG loss, and many other problems that will pop up over time.
To each their own right? Don’t do 35s then. 🤷🏻♂️
Upgrading the suspension and then limiting the up-travel? No the best idea IMHO. In my case, I installed a 1" body lift and I did not have any rubbing issues upper the tire. The only thing I had to deal with was pinch weld.
The suspension upgrade is still worth it. 😉
I did 3" lift and body chop. And 1"body lift . And extended bumpstops. To fit 35" 12.50 tires. Now i need gears. 5.29. After flexin in extremly build jeeps. And using my old sas 92 runner to get around tought me a few things... my stroker in my xj ran very warm.. when i pushed it .. hard to beat a Toyota thease days
Yota for the win. Why 5.29s?
@@DBCoffroad it works well. i had 5.29 and inchworm gears setup and cases and i had 5.29 with 35'' 12.50 i might use the wizard to find out if 4.88 or 5.29, now i got about as much power as a fart. . believe me when i say i have had a few rock crawlers with arb front back. dual cases.. sometimes i just smoged a rig then sold it . to restart a build. now i got a nice silver 2000 3rd gen , with trailgear.marlincrawler,all pro parts and e locker. and my 5th gen just needs sliders, messed my 5th up bad on cadillac hill last year. that bolder i got hung up on
I fit 35's with a 3" suspension 1 1/2" body lift, very minimal fender trimming and body mount chop.
How do you like it?
I might have to do a 1” body lift just to allow the full up travel of the suspension. Right now the bump stops are still spaced.
Great video. I know it took a lot of time and effort to make it and share. Much appreciated. Right now I am watching 35s get installed on my 4Runner. Where did you get your spindles gussetted?
Hey thanks.
Total Chaos Fabrication makes spindle gussets. A couple other companies do as well. I had Silver State Offroad weld them on when they did the gears.
1" body lift would make a lot more sense.
Perhaps. Depends what mods you like.
I have 315/70/17, I have the exact same problems. I'm lower on my left side.
I'm lifting on the left and trimming. 35s are way better imo. Even with the work
Yea I agree. After having them for some time, I like them. I kind of want to frankenstein 37s in there somehow. haha
I want the look of 35s from my 34s but damn this is a lot of work just to run them smoothly lol
A big factor that I didn't really go over was the Offset on the wheels. I have a -25 Offset which makes them stick out more. I'm not sure how much you would have to trim with a 0 Offset wheel. Other people have done 1" body lifts or similar and used SPC Adjustable upper control arms. Regardless, I think you would still have to trim a little.
34s are honestly the sweet spot for 4Runners.
The better ? Is why as a 4Runner is a Overlander what will do 97% what needs done off road and a Jeep is a Rock Crawler for the last 3%.
Wait…. What’s the question?
@@DBCoffroad
I just don't see the need for 35 on a 4Runner and who wants to do a body chop and increase the roll over risk ? and who wants to re gear and get lousy MPG
No question just my feelings
You can run SPC upper control arms and max
out your caster forward
Very true. Wheel offset matters as well. I have -25 offset. So they stick out quite a bit more.
@@DBCoffroad same here. I’m running the SCS F5’s -38
Dude great video! I love the rig and can’t wait to see more. I’ll be sharing your channel for sure!
Haha. Thanks!
Thanks for the content - that's a lot of work 🙂
Thanks for watching! It was more work than I was expecting.
Super well done video, loved seeing the whole process!
Thanks for watching!
@@DBCoffroad I'm glad you posted that supercharger video too. Wish it were bigger...
@@OverlandEngineer that’s… what… she…
Yea I wish the numbers were better too. Especially for the cost.
@@DBCoffroad 😂😂😂
Would be interesting to see how 34s would fit. Like 34x 10.5x17 KO2s,and I think Kenda (edit: Toyo, not Kenda) may have thst size as well. Skinny so that'll help, and range D so abit lighter. Fits fine on my stock jk, just rubs slightly on the sway bars at full lock.
I have a -25 offset. So the tires stick out more. Which is the main cause of needing to cut. I like the stance better than 0 offset wheels.
If you want to know the technical details if they will fit, what Tinker's Adventure video: ruclips.net/video/LAYGdcKSA3o/видео.html
He breaks it down really well.
Thanks for watching!
You should have gone with the kendas 35x10.5
Just to avoid trimming?
Looks like whole lot of work. Inexpensive solution is set caster as close to +3 as possible and get 1” wheel spacers and trim the front bumper. Expensive fix is TC UCA with heim joints and a wheel that has an aggressive offset (-38 will be your best bet).
Thanks for watching. It is a lot of work for sure.
I didn’t mention in the video but the lower control arm is pushed as far forward as possible to make room for the larger tires.
I also think wheel spacers or -35 would make the rubbing worse. Because then the tire would stick out more and contact the fender more. 0 offset/4.75”backspace wheels would rub the least. Except I just liked the additional stance of my -25 wheels. 34” would really be optimal. The upper control arms don’t matter so much unless you get the adjustable SPC arms.
Like OP said, definitely worse. I have -38 offset on uniball TC UCAs and I still rub on the back side and I’m only on 285/70/17.
Excellent vid! Wait till u realizing you gotta relocate the windshield washer res after some whoops 😂😂
Thanks!
Yea I just realized the washer skid is rubbing at full lock to the left. 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for the video brother. I have a 21 venture with kdss. I have the same lift as you and was debating 35's. Looking back was it all worth it or should I just do the 34? How much was the re gearing? Ride is looking nice bro! Thanks!!
Thanks for comment!
I like the excessiveness of having to do 35s. I don’t mind cutting and making it work. So I think it is worth it. If you don’t want to cut the fenders then go 33s/34s.
ReGear is 100% worth it. Even if you just do 33s or 34s. I have 4.88 gears for the 35s but there are also 4.56 kits if you don’t want to go bigger.
Gear install was about $1500.
I also had them do the ARB Front locker.
The ARB locker was $1049 + you have to get the compressor and compressor mount.
Hope this helps. Thanks again for watching.
You would have been better off just doing a 1 inch body lift to help out with flex and rubbing on the body.
Still can. #37s 😉
have you thought about a 1/2” body lift? i know on my 4th gen they have that option and you don’t have to modify anything. that would help with rubbing
I haven’t ever really been a fan of a body lift. The rubbing isn’t bad enough on the firewall for me to be really concerned. And so far the extended bump stops are working well.
So how do you like your kenda tires? I’ve been riding dirt bikes for years and the go to desert tire are Kenda’s. Really considering them.
I really like them.
Donut Media's video is what got me interested: ruclips.net/video/Cdsf75RB3LM/видео.htmlsi=I-MRvzRuGFWOhRAm
After watching it, I figured I'd give them a try. I'm a big fan of the Nitto Ridge grapplers but the Kenda RTs were so much less. I'm on my second set now.
There's really only a few things I don't like:
They are decent in snow, but they are not 3 Peak Snowflake rated so they are a little slippery on hard pack ice on pavement.
The sidewall design is not my favorite. However, its super aggressive and protects really well against rocks when you air down. More than other offroad tires of similar Hybrid design. So it's really not a big deal.
Honestly the only reason why I'd go with a different tire at this point is just the curiosity of trying something new/different. If I buy something else, I'd try the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs.
Thanks!
@@DBCoffroadgotcha. Yeah the r/t is what I’ve been looking at. My ram Cummins has the 35” ridge grapplers and they’ve been great for towing my 40 foot fifth wheel across the country. I’ve considered the Baja boss, for the 4Runner but they are probably the heaviest tire out there. The Baja boss is also more expensive than my ridge grapplers. I’ve considered the max is razr at, but like the look of the r/t a little more. Thank you for the response.
Nice Video. I have a question. I bought lifter 4Runner and I want to put good tires. How do I know how much lift is my 4Runner?
What kind of shocks or lift is on it?
I fit 305s but don’t think I’m up for 35’s 😅
That’s probably a better stopping point. 35s are a lot for the 4runner
Thanks for the video - in your opinion, how much less work do you think it would take to fit 34s?
Thanks for watching!
34s
1. I’d still space the bump stops. My 33s would rub on the inner metal fender at full compression.
2. You could get away with less fender metal trimming. I have a -25 offset on my new wheels. The old Icon wheels had a 0 offset, which I think would be perfect for reducing the trimming for 34s.
3. You’ll still have to do the body mount chop. I think that’s just inevitable with anything larger than 33” tires.
I think 34s are the Perfect size for the 4Runners. 33s are a smidge small. And 35s take a lot of work and are still a smidge big.
Hope this helps!
@@DBCoffroad - that’s what I needed to know, thanks!
Why didnt you just use portals and no lift.
Do you know how much Portals cost?
Good work man. I have RRW wheels and am getting 35" KM3's installed this morning. Do you have 0 offset, -12 or -25 wheels? Did you consider just lifting your front up another 1/2"-3/4" or so? I still have pretty good CV angles so wouldn't mind going up just a bit more, curious to how much I will have to trim. I have an SSO front bumper and installed the high clearance wings yesterday so no rubbing up front, also have a body mount chop and already trimmed the little bottom cap of the fender flares. But I only have -12 offset wheels so they don't stick out too far
Thanks for watching!
I have -25 offset wheels. So they stick out a bit more.
I have the ride height set where I like it. Driving on the pavement nothing really rubbed. It’s when the suspension articulated Offroad it caused problems. And I drive fast and want to crawl so I was going to have to clearance the fenders no matter what. This is just what worked for me. Thanks again!
New 4Runner owner. I just purchased the TRD off rd premium… what is the largest tires I can get without needing a lift or any trimming? Would 33s fit?
Honestly not really. 32s are the biggest you can go without rubbing. When I put my 33s on the stock wheels, I had to trim about 1/4-1/2 inch off the front of the wheel well and take the mud flaps off. Its minimal trimming that no one would notice.
If you are set on NOT trimming, just get a better 32" offroad tire and you will be good.
@@DBCoffroad appreciate the response. Thanks!
Dumb question: I used an old dremel to cut the front plastic fenders just fine but now I have to cut back metal part. What I used doesn’t seem like it’s made for metal, so what did you use to cut it? Any specific link?
I just used a corded Ryobi angle grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. Seemed to work ok.
www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-5-5-Amp-Corded-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-AG4031G/205558109
why didn't you just do a 1/2 inch body lift?
Because I’m crazy and decided to cut. 🤷🏻♂️
Regrets going 35s or worth it? I'm planning to go 35s soon on my 5g. Also did you do body lift at all? I heard that helps a lot with rubbing prevention if you go 1" body lift
Umm.
I don’t regret the regear. 100% worth it.
A 34” tire would fit perfect as well. So 34s are the best option with no rubbing.
My 35s still rub a little on the firewall, body mount and washer tank skid. But having done it I wouldn’t go smaller. There’s just a little more trimming and I think I’ll be ok with it. The 35s climb rocks better than the 33s for sure. Just depends on what you want to do and how wild you want to get.
Oh and no body lift. I’m not a fan.
what lift are you running?
Fox 2.5 DCS Suspension. It’s about 2.5”-3” up front.
Was it worth it?
Cutting?
I like the 35s. I’d maybe try a different offset wheel and upper control arm for different caster so I could cut less. But I’d still want to shove too much tire in a small wheel well.
Not a fan of body lifts but you'll hack your fenders to hell?! I've got a 4" suspension lift and 1" body lift on my 5th Gen 4runner and all I had to do was BMC and viper cut, no rubbing. Do you dislike body lifts because of some BS you heard and now believe or something factual?
I see you’re not a fan of cutting. To each their own right? Everyone mods their rigs to their own taste.
What kind of lift is the 4” lift?
I don’t like body lifts from seeing others have issues with them. Gaps. Bent bolts. Body shifting forward on the frame. But that doesn’t happen to everyone. So it just comes down to personal preference. 🤷🏻♂️ Thanks for watching!
@@DBCoffroad It's an Icon suspension with toytec body lift...haven't had any problems but I'm running BFG K02 AT 35x12.5 which aren't really 35"...they measure out right at 34" running 35psi. To me, it just seems wiser to implement a small body lift, in conjunction with some adjustable control arms or something along those lines as opposed to hacking away at your vehicle...as you said, to each their own.
@@brandonboseman4184 How do you like the Icon setup? Got any pics you could send to my IG?
Ok got it, stick with 33s😂
Yea 35s was a lot of work. 🤷🏻♂️
Or put them on a wrangler….
@@RandomUser1668 Jeep fans unite!
Very clean, simple, and functional build. Love it,
Hey thanks 🤘🏻