Great video! It's been so long since my 1st Corvair engine build! I do know I replaced allot of stuff since I was already in there whether it needed it or not; As a precaution . I do know that was 35 years ago, & the engine has held up well, & I wanted all top shelf parts on my build because it was a turbo charged engine. I also based everything on what ware the engine had on it to begin with. I've done a few partial rebuilds, & have never had any complaints from people. The main thing IMHO is what You stated; The intended purpose of the build . There is such a thing as over doing it. The only thing I saw that would concern me is the ware on those rocker arms; That seemed unusual .I'd would replace that blower bearing; As well as all the bearings that the belt ride on it, & of course all main seals, & don't use cork gaskets. This is something I do to all my engines; I replace all the covers on the trans. diff. & engine with finned covers for cooling purposes, I never did do it to the 60 I owned only because I wanted to keep it stock. The kiss method works best IMHO . You have got more than half whipped with your organized approach. Did You ever find those books I told you about? Look forward to more videos, & some on the 67.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the advice and your input. ya, the rocker arms were kinda strange. Just going to replace them along with the lifters, push rods, and tubes. Can't wait to get this awesome car back on the road. I tore it apart before I started doing RUclips videos, so I haven't got any videos of it running, but it is an awesome ride! Haven't had a chance to look into the books yet. Yes, I will be making vids soon on Antonio, my 67, soon. It has been patiently waiting on the side of the house all winter for me to resume its journey. Thanks for watching and commenting on my videos!
@@EndWrenchRookie Sounds great . I haven't done much with my Vairs other than give them a water-less wash; & cleaned & detail the interiors; As well the engine bays; I also bought a new indoor cover for the 67 convertible. I still have a few other priority vehicle projects ahead of the Vairs; Those should be knocked out before early summer I hope; All the parts are here to do it. Take it easy.
If the clutch was working correctly when you tore it apart then leave it alone. The most you should do is have the surface sanded lightly on the flywheel and the clutch. The disc looked good and since you only need it for a Sunday cruiser then it all should work just fine. I would however put in a new throwout bearing. Double the seals on the input shaft on the motor side as Clarks shows to do. That is worth a ton towards longevity and keeping oil and grease out of the clutch assembly. The oil pump gears look good. My '61Corvair had the cable to the carbs that let me set the chokes. Pushrods have to be straight. Use a flat piece of glass to check and if they wobble up and down then replace them. No, that bearing should revolve quite nicely but the sound coming from it means it needs to be greased. Replace all the gaskets, seals, and bearings as needed while you have them apart. Put an upgraded new cam and gear in it. Otherwise, it looks pretty good from what I saw.Where are the rings and why does the piston top look so bad? Should not have pits like that and hopefully no holes but if you happy enough with them then okay :)
Thank you so much for the advice! I am all for reusing the clutch. I have seen guys use an orbital sander on their flywheel and pressure plate with like a 1000 grit paper. maybe I can get away with that? I will definitely get a new throwout bearing. I will look into the double input shaft seals as you suggest. Sounds like a really good idea. I really appreciate the advice. Thank you for watching and for your comments!
Ok great! Do you mean so that it will rotate smoothly in the input shaft bushing that is in the crank? Sounds like a good idea. Thanks so much for the advice!
You do not mention having cleaned the block oil chambers. The silver sludge you found in the oil pump housing would be present in the chambers and need to be flushed out.
Thank you so much for the tip! True, I have not finished preparing the block yet. I have had a couple people mention cleaning out the passages. I will definitely check that out. Thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate the advice. Thanks for watching!
Take a hammer and hit the flywheel with it. If it makes a crisp clear sound keep it, if its dull replace it. These flywheels have a habit to fall apart after a 100k+ miles. It will sound like a catastrophic engine failure. (Ignore this if you have a one-pice/solid flywheel) Everyone advises against the high pressure oil pump. It might shear off you distributor gear or oil pump drive. The fail safe gear for the cam is unnecessary for street use. If you had numbered the lifters to the matching cam lobe you probably could have reused the cam. Now I would advise to replace cam and lifters.
Thank you so much for the advice! I have heard of the flywheel problem but wasn't sure how much I should worry about it. I have seen where guys have drilled out the rivets and used bolts instead. I guess that would be cheaper than buying a new flywheel but not sure about the longevity of the repair. I will try your hammer trick :) Good to know about the oil pump issue...thank you! Thanks again for the comment. I really appreciate your time and thanks for watching!
@@EndWrenchRookie I actually have the list of all the parts I ordered for my Greenbrier from Clarks for my rebuild. I spent round a month collecting the things I need. If you are interested I can send you the list.
Ok great. You must be talking about the tension pulley bearing? I will try some grease or replace with new. Thanks for the advice! Thanks for watching!
STOP! I'm an Old corvair guy. You have problems with some of the parts .I would suggest getting help from someone that has put them together for your first time. Do the drop test on flywheel( it should ring). Starter ring gear looks worn, and so on. I wish I could be with you.
Thank you so much for the advice! I wish you were here as well. That would be fun. I will test the flywheel. I am toying with the idea of doing the rivet to bolt upgrade or just buying a new flywheel. Not sure yet. I will take a closer look at the starter ring gear as well. Thanks again. Thanks for watching too!
Great video! It's been so long since my 1st Corvair engine build! I do know I replaced allot of stuff since I was already in there whether it needed it or not; As a precaution . I do know that was 35 years ago, & the engine has held up well, & I wanted all top shelf parts on my build because it was a turbo charged engine. I also based everything on what ware the engine had on it to begin with. I've done a few partial rebuilds, & have never had any complaints from people. The main thing IMHO is what You stated; The intended purpose of the build . There is such a thing as over doing it. The only thing I saw that would concern me is the ware on those rocker arms; That seemed unusual .I'd would replace that blower bearing; As well as all the bearings that the belt ride on it, & of course all main seals, & don't use cork gaskets. This is something I do to all my engines; I replace all the covers on the trans. diff. & engine with finned covers for cooling purposes, I never did do it to the 60 I owned only because I wanted to keep it stock. The kiss method works best IMHO . You have got more than half whipped with your organized approach. Did You ever find those books I told you about? Look forward to more videos, & some on the 67.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the advice and your input. ya, the rocker arms were kinda strange. Just going to replace them along with the lifters, push rods, and tubes. Can't wait to get this awesome car back on the road. I tore it apart before I started doing RUclips videos, so I haven't got any videos of it running, but it is an awesome ride! Haven't had a chance to look into the books yet. Yes, I will be making vids soon on Antonio, my 67, soon. It has been patiently waiting on the side of the house all winter for me to resume its journey. Thanks for watching and commenting on my videos!
@@EndWrenchRookie Sounds great . I haven't done much with my Vairs other than give them a water-less wash; & cleaned & detail the interiors; As well the engine bays; I also bought a new indoor cover for the 67 convertible. I still have a few other priority vehicle projects ahead of the Vairs; Those should be knocked out before early summer I hope; All the parts are here to do it. Take it easy.
The grey on the pistons is from sandblasting them, to get the carbon off.
Ok, that makes sense. Thanks!
Inspect your magnesium fan for cracks as well
Will do. Thanks!
A tip! I use thicker jug shims( ac equip cars) to lower the compression on your 110 engine. 110 engines don't like today's gas.
Interesting. Thanks for the heads-up. I will look into that. Any other words of wisdom for me? Thanks again!
@@EndWrenchRookie I would absolutely disagree with that statement. If you use higher octane there shouldn't be any problems
If the clutch was working correctly when you tore it apart then leave it alone. The most you should do is have the surface sanded lightly on the flywheel and the clutch. The disc looked good and since you only need it for a Sunday cruiser then it all should work just fine. I would however put in a new throwout bearing. Double the seals on the input shaft on the motor side as Clarks shows to do. That is worth a ton towards longevity and keeping oil and grease out of the clutch assembly. The oil pump gears look good. My '61Corvair had the cable to the carbs that let me set the chokes. Pushrods have to be straight. Use a flat piece of glass to check and if they wobble up and down then replace them. No, that bearing should revolve quite nicely but the sound coming from it means it needs to be greased. Replace all the gaskets, seals, and bearings as needed while you have them apart. Put an upgraded new cam and gear in it. Otherwise, it looks pretty good from what I saw.Where are the rings and why does the piston top look so bad? Should not have pits like that and hopefully no holes but if you happy enough with them then okay :)
Thank you so much for the advice! I am all for reusing the clutch. I have seen guys use an orbital sander on their flywheel and pressure plate with like a 1000 grit paper. maybe I can get away with that? I will definitely get a new throwout bearing. I will look into the double input shaft seals as you suggest. Sounds like a really good idea. I really appreciate the advice. Thank you for watching and for your comments!
Replace TO bearings, rocker arms and push rods, tubes with the Viton seals.
Ok great. Thank you so much for all the advice!
Crocus cloth or emery paper the input shaft
Ok great! Do you mean so that it will rotate smoothly in the input shaft bushing that is in the crank? Sounds like a good idea. Thanks so much for the advice!
@@EndWrenchRookie it looks like there is a Ridge on the input shaft. He must be smooth this light on to the input shaft.
Ok Thanks for the clarification :)
You may want to change the yolk seals. Very easy to do usually problematic.
Ok great! I will add that to my list. Thanks a lot!
Always replace the harmonic balancer the rubber separates from the outer ring. Idler pulley should be replaced as well.
Sounds good. Thank you so much!
You do not mention having cleaned the block oil chambers. The silver sludge you found in the oil pump housing would be present in the chambers and need to be flushed out.
Thank you so much for the tip! True, I have not finished preparing the block yet. I have had a couple people mention cleaning out the passages. I will definitely check that out. Thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate the advice. Thanks for watching!
Take a hammer and hit the flywheel with it. If it makes a crisp clear sound keep it, if its dull replace it. These flywheels have a habit to fall apart after a 100k+ miles. It will sound like a catastrophic engine failure. (Ignore this if you have a one-pice/solid flywheel)
Everyone advises against the high pressure oil pump. It might shear off you distributor gear or oil pump drive.
The fail safe gear for the cam is unnecessary for street use.
If you had numbered the lifters to the matching cam lobe you probably could have reused the cam. Now I would advise to replace cam and lifters.
Thank you so much for the advice! I have heard of the flywheel problem but wasn't sure how much I should worry about it. I have seen where guys have drilled out the rivets and used bolts instead. I guess that would be cheaper than buying a new flywheel but not sure about the longevity of the repair. I will try your hammer trick :) Good to know about the oil pump issue...thank you! Thanks again for the comment. I really appreciate your time and thanks for watching!
@@EndWrenchRookie I actually have the list of all the parts I ordered for my Greenbrier from Clarks for my rebuild. I spent round a month collecting the things I need. If you are interested I can send you the list.
Wow, that would be great! I really appreciate your help! You can email me at: endwrenchrookie@gmail.com
@@EndWrenchRookie Email has been sent :)
thank you so much! I will check it out
Bearing is bad… it shouldnt spin by hand so easy. Maybe it needs a little grease.
Ok great. You must be talking about the tension pulley bearing? I will try some grease or replace with new. Thanks for the advice! Thanks for watching!
STOP!
I'm an Old corvair guy. You have problems with some of the parts .I would suggest getting help from someone that has put them together for your first time.
Do the drop test on flywheel( it should ring).
Starter ring gear looks worn, and so on.
I wish I could be with you.
Thank you so much for the advice! I wish you were here as well. That would be fun. I will test the flywheel. I am toying with the idea of doing the rivet to bolt upgrade or just buying a new flywheel. Not sure yet. I will take a closer look at the starter ring gear as well. Thanks again. Thanks for watching too!
Pay the extra money for the camshaft gear pinning
Ok. Thanks!