durianrider Blimey Durianrider comment on my video, ha a little RUclips star struck 🤩 Yeah fair point, makes sense to minimise the risk of damage, good tip that deserves pinning.
Quick note for people who might be looking to make that update on a 2015 and up Cannondale. The Wheels MFG adapters won't work because of the 73mm wide BB shell. FSA BB30A Mega Exo Reducer Kit Pf30 BB Adapter - Green are the ones you need. Other than that, brilliant brilliant video, super helpful!
I know it's a while now but I really love that fsa cranksets. Bearings 5min and you have installed new ones. Now I have to change the crank because I bought power meter and at first I did want to change the bottom bracket. I already bought them to. But more I learned the solution was only to use spacer and I will keep the installed bb30. Like I said 5min and I'm good to go...
Just did this to my 2014 Roubaix and it fits perfectly without re-using the FSA seals as i found it forced the crank out to far, besides the delrin adapters are machined with the same profile as the fsa seals so i think they are design to fit directly into the bearings and hence they aren't provided with any further seals. great video btw
I understand how the adapter is snug and spins as the crank spins as well as with the bearings it was one of my questions in the beginning ....but what I csnt wrap my mind around is how does the crankset spindle fit now that you essentially added like .5 inches to the bb length know??? How can u push it thru and still come out on other side still having room to put crank arm on? Is the 24mm spindle smaller and LONGER than the 30mm sizes? Thx Just got a caad 10 with bb30 ...will b swapping my components all 5800 series shimano 105 so it's a 24mm crankset I'll b doing this next chance I'm off... thx of y can help me out!!
I guess its all to do with the stack length of the standard threaded bottom bracket with the external cups Vs. a BB30 with the bearing internal. That gives you the 10mm each side you need for the adaptor to make up the difference.
Curious, did you have to use any other spacers to get a good proper fit? Or was the shim kit good enough? I can't really find a lot of info online that clears it up. I'm looking at replacing the FSA Gossamer Pro crank on my Tarmac with an Ultegra 6800 crank, and hoping this should do the job.
Great video!!! Advise Question: I currently have a OSBB presfit installed on my allez. Im swapping the crankset to shimano ultegra. Can install Wheel Man bb30 outboard bottom bracket shimano 24mm compatible??
Hi, thanks for the great video! I also bought these shims but when i install them without the dust seals, they make a rubbing noise as i turn the shims - potentially coming from contacting the outside of the PF30 BB cup. Did you end up using the outer (dust) seals?
I have a Roubaix with a FSA Gossamer. It now has the dreaded bb30 cracking noise and is driving me mad! If I were to install a 105 chainset using these shims would that get rid of the noise? I have been looking at the Praxis Works converter but these look a good alternative.
Hi Andy7846, I don't think that the shims would necessarily solve your problem as its the interface between the outer bearing shell and the machined surface within the BB causing the problem, and this wont change with these shims. I think your first step would be to buy a new set of BB30 bearing and see if the problem repeats itself, remove everything inc circlips from the bottom bracket shell and clean and degrease everything spotless. Check to see if there are any witness marks within the contact surfaces within the BB shell of you bike as this might point to the fact that the 1 or both bearing are moving extremely small amount within the BB. This might give you an indication of which side is causing the creak and you can focus your attention there. Once clean re-install the bearings using a press tool to ensure alignment with loads of quality grease. If the problem then rears its noisy head again, and you know that its one side causing the problem I would remove the bearings again, clean and degrease everything replace with new ones but this time use 1 or 2 drops of a low strength bearing retaining compound. This should hold the bearings outer race in place within the BB and stop the creaking, but it will make removing the bearings a pain in the arse and they most likely will need to be hydraulically pressed out of the frame. If all that fail, then I would start looking at the Praxis Works Converter as its quite expensive. I had the same problem on my 2011 CAAD 10, lucky new bearings and plenty of grease solved it for me. Hope that of some help
Hey Andy. Have you tried a touch of loctite between the bb shell and outer bearing surface? If you smear a small amount of the medium strength (blue) on the surfaces, let it dry, then reinstall, it may help solve the creaking/cracking noise. I've seen it work many times with success, and haven't had any issues removing afterwards etc, though it may take some more force when removing/installing bearing.
do you have the wavy washer installed ? I removed mine and found it kills the noise- the crank will slide a bit without it- that is where you decide if you want to get a better replacement (spacer/washer)
Any luck dude? I just had spesh replace the bearings and they said it would creak anymore. It is using a praxis converter BB. First ride in the hills today putting some watts through and its creaking here and there. I've had another LBS say i need to get a metal shell seated inside the BB as it is the contact between the bearing and the carbon shell thats causing the issue. What did u do to get rid of the creak?
The most helpful video I've found! Curious how many spacers did you have to use on the spindle and did you use spacers on both sides evenly or more on one side?
Hi Kevin. No spacers as such are required if you are using a Shimano chainset as any side to side slop is taken up by the threaded end cap that gets installed around the 4:30 mark. Chainsets made by other manufactures may require some spacers though.
Hi I also have a tarmac with the fsa gossamer. With the change you made did it change the width or spread from the crank to the frame. Cause it looks like it would stick out from the bearing further than the stock setup? Thanks
This crankset conversion and upgrade looks deceptively easy, but is it? I have a 2014 Specialized Ruby that I’ve been thinking of swapping the FSA Gossamer compact crankset to something nicer. What was the benefits to going to this Shimano crankset? Did the cranks go wider?
It’s as easy as it was in the video, you can definitely do better, more durable conversions using Hambini or C-Bear or even wheels manufacturing other options. But it’s also buy a significant margins the cheapest way to do this and my be perfectly adequate for the casual cyclist. The Gossamer are total garbage, recycle them. Shimano are stiffer and lighter and shift better as will many other brands like praxis and srams BB30 stuff.
+Aleš Papler Nope no seals came with the shims, I reused the FSA ones which came with the bike. The fit was very good so they might be excess to requirement to be honest.
+JDM4K So i got all installed. Did 150km till now and all is fine. I didnt use any spacers, seals... as it put the drive side outwards too much. I did however have some difficulties fitting one of the adapters on the crank shaft. I thought i wouldnt get it on it, but then after it was 2cm on the shaft its just slipped to the end. The other one fit nicely, but i am a bit worried i wont be able to remove the other one if i decided to use KCNC/ROTOR/PRAXIS adapter. Might need to cut it with a grinder... lets hope not. All in all, it works.
Oh interesting, I would say mine felt like they were tight initially on the crank spindle, then looser in the middle and tight again but nothing too extreme. I guess they machine tighter tolerances on the spindle where the bearing sit. If you need to take the shim off the crank, instead of cutting or grinding the crank, stick it in the freezer for an hour or so as it will cause the metal to shrink and you should be able it slide it off :)
Great video and great information! Did you get any creaks with the shim set after install? Will this shim set work for Dura Ace as well. Want to do the same thing on my 2018 S Works Roubaix. Want to go with Shimano Dura Ace 9100 crankset and chainset. Any additional suggestions or advice will be a great help. Maybe post a link for where to get the shim set. Thanks again!
Jeffrey Victor hi Jeffery, no no creeks for me but these shins won’t fix and already creaking BB. It should work for all hollow tech 2 Shimano chain sets buts it’s worth double checking Wheels Manufacturing’s website as I made this video quite some time ago and BB standards are constantly evolving. Whilst I like the idea of posting a link where to get the shims from, it wouldn’t work great on an international perspective as it would be wrong link for 92% of my audience.
perfect video.. so bb30/pf30/osbb all pretty much work with the exact same wheels manufacturing adapter? does the helium x frameset come with the pf30 pre-installed?
Yup, if your looking to convert from a 30mm spindle chain set to a Shimano these adapters are sure the simplest and cheapest way of doing it, bear in mind that if your looking as a GXP style the adaptors will be different. I can’t say I’ve ever heard of a helium x before so I would have no idea if it does or doesn’t.
@@MozOnBikes i received the adaptors, yours seem a bit more snug than mine 🤔 ive changed the bottom bracket bearings and put adaptors in but they do spin around (obviously they will as they are in the bb bearing) once I have the cranks in though it'll all be tightened up no? Also how come you don't use the spacers and bearings seals? TIA
Appreciate the video! Looking to change from 52/36 to 50/34 on my Tarmac too. Swapping the rings costs as much as a full 105 chainset... I'll think I will give this ago unless you've experienced any problems... Do you have a tools list to complete this task?
+MrElTel Glad you appreciated the video! There certainly are lots of confusing ways to solve this problem but this is the most cost effective and simple way I found whilst figuring out how to do it. I've only done about 50-60 with them fitted so far as the weathers been quite poor so I've been using my cross bike more. But so far they have been totally perfect with no problems. I didn't add a tool list as I thought would vary from chainset to chainset, but assuming you have an FSA on your Tarmac they only unusual tools is a big Allen/hex key (12mm I think) to remove the FSA chainset which should self extract against the threaded cover like I'm my video. Also if your installing a shimano chainset you'll need a shimano crank install tool for hollow tech 2 which is that funny round black key, they are very very cheap to buy. Hope that's of some help.
After you removed the old crank it seemed like you cleaned the bearings as they looked clean on the outside of them?...but I didn't see any grease on the new crank spindle when you installed it? Do you not have to grease the ultegra spindle at all?
Hi Pete The bearing were under the black seals with the FSA cranks, but when I looked at installing the adaptors I figured that the actual shape of the adaptor will perform the same job and this is my fair weather bike so it rarely see rain. I might have wiped off any excess grease that was from the factory, I cant remember to be honest, was a year ago I made this! I don't believe that adding greasing the crank spindle in this installation is necessary, the adaptors are made from Delrin which is an widely used quality engineering plastic. 2 of its key material features are that it stable, machines very accurately and that its also has is very low in friction, so much so you can make bushes for moving parts out of it. Now normally I would suggest that apply a bit of grease to a spindle, especially when the spindle is aluminium mating directly onto steel bearings is very sensible as it could prevent galvanic corrosion. But in this case with the adaptors between the steel shimano spindle and the steel bearing races I don't think it brings anything to the party.
Mozz Ok. Fair enough. Thanks for the video. I just bought a Specialized Allez Comp w/FSA crank and will be swapping it out for a Shimano crank.... Thanks to you I now know how.
Hi, very useful video as I'm looking to do the exact same (switch from fsa to ultegra ). just wondered if you had to reuse the washer and seal from the non - drive side when installing the ultegra crankset on? Also is any kind of grease recommended on any parts whilst fitting them? cheers.
Hi, Thanks! It does seem the simplest solution to fit Shimano cranks in a BB30. As you can see from the video, I didn't bother refitting the dust seal from from the original FSA BB initially, but I went back to the bike the next day to fit them as it was bugging me (It does state in the instructions they are optional). To be honest though I don't think it will make much difference as the shape of shim will stop the dust getting near the bearing. The only grease I used was the Shimano goo that was all over the cranks when I removed them from their packaging. The Shims are made from a material called Delrin which is a engineering plastic than can be used for bushings and bearings so in my mind I don't think loads of grease is necessary for this assembly. Grease wise if you cranks are not box fresh and covered in the stuff like mine were I would say play it safe and go for the fluro yellow Shimano stuff thats available from most bike shops.
The chainline should be the same or very close to the original FSA chainset. Shimano Chainset have a recess to account for external style BB and the Wheels Manufacturing shims fill this void.
Everything being equal, you will not gain any clearance to the stays. But saying that different crank arm have more or less clearance. Im guessing you're look for a way to space a chainset out for a crank arm based power meter or something along those lines?
Very helpful video. I am looking to replace my Rotor 3DS cranks with Ultegra 6800 and this is very helpful. can you post the link to the site where you bought the shims from. Thanks
Thank's, glad it was helpful. I spent some considerable time trying to figure out the best ways to swap from a BB30 style to a Shimano style. I bought the shims from the UK retailer Wiggle (www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/) but they are fairly common and widely available.
how are the shims after a few months of use? I'm looking for a solution to fit a GXP crank on a bb30a ,hope they don't wear fast...what is your experience?
RICHIE DE VERA if I read that correct your trying to mix an shimano chainset with a gxp bottom bracket? In that case it’s impossible as the diameter of the shimano axle is larger than the bearing size of the gxp bearings.
@@MozOnBikes thanks for repply.. sorry but what i mean im going to change the crankset to sram gxp maybe i change also the bb? what bb type? thanks again bro..
Hmm really not sure without more specifics, there are far too many BB standards out there to take a guess. Check out the Wheels Manufacturing website, it’s pretty handy and they’ll probably have the answer your looking for.
I did not see him use any grease on the spindle, but as the spindle will not be in contact with any metal and only the high quality (hopefully) plastic of the adapters, this is not an issue. I would have greased the pedal threads with some lithium grease though, and also use a torque wrench for the non drive side crank arm bolts. Oh, and I would totally not use these adapters, and instead swap the bottom bracket bearings for a wider stance option, like Rotor, Wheels Manufactured, White industries, Token, Praxis Works, BBinfinite or Hambini (there are probably even more options out there).
My guess is that it would, but at best that would be a guess. Depends on your frames BB and the width of cranks you were intending to install (boost or non boost etc).
+dan le poidevin Hi, thanks for watching. Its early days yet I would say I've only done 50-60 miles on the new chainset, but so far they have been totally faultless and the Ultegra chainset feels significantly stiffer when you're mashing on the pedals. As the shims are quite cheap compared to the other solutions, I would defo recommend trying them first if you were considering a similar set up.
Adrian T. Hi Adrian, well the adaptors won’t solve any cracking or squeaking if it already exists, but yes I would recommend. I’ve just bought a Specialized Diverge that has a BB30 style bottom bracket. I plan on upgrading that bike to a Shimano GRX and I will need to adapt it to a Shimano 24mm spindle. I will buy another set of these Wheels Manufacturing adaptors to do this, and probably re-make this video as it’s getting old now.
Ahh sounds like the product for you then, I just worry people look to doing this to solve creaking. Plus it’s the cheapest way to do the conversion. They are made from a engineering plastic called Delrin which I’ve design bushes and low angle bearing from myself so it’s really shouldn’t creak or squeak .
I noticed that you did not replace the bearing shield (the ring immediately against the bearing when you removed the old crank) when you installed the adapter. Can you explain why you no longer needed it? I was on the phone with wheels today and they said I should re-install the bearing shield.
I believe you are referring to the dust covers? They are optional in the system if you read the instructions. There’s a pdf of the instructions available on the wheels manufacturing website. The way the shims sit against the bearings they pretty much make the dust covers redundant. Also I’ve recently fitted a set to a Cannondale CAADX but with the dust covers in place the they spaced out the crank a little too much to the point where I couldn’t engage the plastic locking pin on shimano cranks into the spindle.
Thanks for your reply. Actually they are technically called bearing shields but in any case I didn't receive any installation instructions and so I followed your video but when I initially installed my 105 crank, they would not spin freely when I tightened the non-drive side crank arm. So in speaking to Wheels today they said I should re-install the shields because they are grooved to rest against the rim of the bearing and don't press against the seal/bearings like the adapters might creating friction. . There was resistance so something is not right. I guess I need to either get the shields back in or add shims.
I’m not sure on the bottom bracket standard with that year Venge, I think that could be the first year of the Vias version and Specialized do like to change the standards they use. It’s best to do some research to figure out what standard you have then find the appropriate parts to adapt.
I have just got a cube agree sl 2012, says bb34 which not seen before and has a 19mm hole. And the shell is 85 mm, reckon they could be a solution? Am at a lost with it been looking into all day. Any suggestions would be great
Ive not heard of BB34 before and I cant seem to find much about it. I had a bit of a think about this over the weekend and talked to a few bike industry friends. Hazarding a guess that you have SRAM chainset with a GPX axel or the FSA equivalent? I think you might be able to use these to fit a Shimano chainset, but you'd also need a new set of BB30 compatible bearings with fit within your Cubes BB shell and I cant seem to find much about what diameter the outer bearing shell would be. It might be a good but to find a local bike shop thats a Cube dealer and quiz them a little before ordering any thing, or even ask Cube directly.
Mozz thanks for the response, I ended up getting a praxis and took it to one of my lbs to fit, turns put need a bb86, and hopefully has been fixed as they ordered one for me today and hopefully get it picked up on Wednesday. thanks for the response I appreciate the thought and time.
how to remove the adapter? my adapter is come from s-works tarmac sl5 for bb30. I have tried twice, it pop out with the bearing but not only adapter itself.
Hmm seems like the bearing is tighter fit to the adapter than it is in the frame. Sounds like a job for a bearing pulling tool or a press tool to remove the bearing from the adapter. Probs best take it to a bike shop.
My guess is that it would, but at best that would be a guess. Depends on your frames BB and the width of the xt8000 cranks you were installing (boost or non boost etc).
Just bought a R8000 crank and thinking of calling Wheels Manufacturing. My bike is PF30 w/ a Praxis Works conversion BB to GXP. Spindle are both 24mm so don't know why they're not listed as being compatible with Shimano's 24 mm
@@MozOnBikes yes, I figured it had something to do with that. I went with the Praxis Works shimano BB30 conversion. All these BB standards are so annoying. Great video BTW. And thanks for taking the time to reply
Preload screw needs a bit more pressure than normal to push against the inner race as the Wheelsmfg is quite a snug fit inside the bearing. Just a tip.
According to Park Tool its 4-6 In-lb. As you can see my tool for this has no fixings to attach a torque wrench, just like thumb grips. I've just been snugging them up finger tight with it for years with no problem.
+David Morgan I will do, I've not really used my Venge much since installation as its my best dry weather bike so I've still only done 50-60 miles on them. You totally right, I think its totally worth giving these a go before trying some of the screw in style adaptors to use the Shimano cups.
+Robert Mikkelsen if I remember correctly they are made from a plastic called Delrin. This is often used to make bushes and static bearings. I don't think grease is needed.
Protein The adaptors have a light press fit in the bearings. You should be able to pull them out with just your fingers. If not it they might require gently tapping out from the opposite side of the bottom bracket using something like a blunt drift pin or similar. Should be an easy job and noting to worry about.
Easy to stop the creaking, just put about two tablespoons of penetrating oil in the crankcase/BB shell. This will keep everything in the BB happy, just like a motorbike. You gotta have oil in the crankcase. It doesnt leak out of the BB case cause there is no oil pressure to push it out. Cheers.
There are too many universal standards is the issue. Saying that BB386evo is probably the best, most universal standard that should be settled on I believe. Seems like the industry is heading in that direction.
@@MozOnBikes In my opinion, bike manufacturers create their own proprietary standards for maximum revenue gain. So that consumers could only acquire certain features exclusive to their company. Kinda like Apple's strategy in consumer electronics. Therefore a universal standard across the bike industry is next to impossible.
Maybe, but someone need to invent new stuff and design better products. At the end of the day it’s bearings in a hole with a shaft that spins. Most of the innovation in road cycling are coming from the mountain bike side for decades not. Road based stuff applied from when there was universal standards was utter crap and actually quite heavy. The amount of square tape cranks and bottom brackets I snapped or bent was outrageous. Ended up moving to heavy bmx cranks for a while until hollowtech came along. But all this time Cannondales magic motorcycle chainset had it right from the early 90s.
Did you really not have to adjust cable tension on the front derailleur? I've just changed my compact to a standard and am struggling to get the tension right after raising the front mech, any tips?
Philip Ross Yes I had to redo the whole set up of the front mech as I was changing from a mid compact to a compact. I decided not to include an in depth mech adjustment as I felt it distracted from the focus of the video for the majority of people who I would think would be maintaining their chainring sizes. There's a good video on front mech set up on the Global Cycling Network (GCN) that should help you.
great vid but please take your pedals off whilst bike is on the ground to avoid damage to carbon tubes that are in the work stand xD
durianrider Blimey Durianrider comment on my video, ha a little RUclips star struck 🤩
Yeah fair point, makes sense to minimise the risk of damage, good tip that deserves pinning.
Quick note for people who might be looking to make that update on a 2015 and up Cannondale. The Wheels MFG adapters won't work because of the 73mm wide BB shell. FSA BB30A Mega Exo Reducer Kit Pf30 BB Adapter - Green are the ones you need. Other than that, brilliant brilliant video, super helpful!
That is the most peaceful bicycle maintenance video I have ever seen, thank you. :)
Well done! I loved the FSA toss
I know it's a while now but I really love that fsa cranksets. Bearings 5min and you have installed new ones. Now I have to change the crank because I bought power meter and at first I did want to change the bottom bracket. I already bought them to. But more I learned the solution was only to use spacer and I will keep the installed bb30. Like I said 5min and I'm good to go...
100% THANKS!
A picture is worth a 1000 words, now I understand!!!!
THANKS AGAIN!!!😃
Just did this to my 2014 Roubaix and it fits perfectly without re-using the FSA seals as i found it forced the crank out to far, besides the delrin adapters are machined with the same profile as the fsa seals so i think they are design to fit directly into the bearings and hence they aren't provided with any further seals. great video btw
2:58 haha. This is very fitting for all BB30 cranksets!
Perfect! Great image quality
Haha, I'm at 6:23 and still laughing about 3:01. Great video.
I understand how the adapter is snug and spins as the crank spins as well as with the bearings it was one of my questions in the beginning ....but what I csnt wrap my mind around is how does the crankset spindle fit now that you essentially added like .5 inches to the bb length know??? How can u push it thru and still come out on other side still having room to put crank arm on? Is the 24mm spindle smaller and LONGER than the 30mm sizes? Thx
Just got a caad 10 with bb30 ...will b swapping my components all 5800 series shimano 105 so it's a 24mm crankset I'll b doing this next chance I'm off... thx of y can help me out!!
I guess its all to do with the stack length of the standard threaded bottom bracket with the external cups Vs. a BB30 with the bearing internal. That gives you the 10mm each side you need for the adaptor to make up the difference.
Nice quolity video. Fun to watch!
I realize this is an old vid but wanted to see how these adapters have held up and if any issues popped up. Thanks
I don’t use them any more, but they held up fine for 2-3 year with no issues
Nice video for a DIY solution. I personally would rather go with one of WheelsMFG full bottom bracket solutions though.
Curious, did you have to use any other spacers to get a good proper fit? Or was the shim kit good enough? I can't really find a lot of info online that clears it up. I'm looking at replacing the FSA Gossamer Pro crank on my Tarmac with an Ultegra 6800 crank, and hoping this should do the job.
Good sharing bro.
Thank you. Very helpful!
Well done. Thanks! I have the same problem in my Cannondale Synapse.
Great video - thank you!
Great video!!! Advise Question: I currently have a OSBB presfit installed on my allez. Im swapping the crankset to shimano ultegra. Can install Wheel Man bb30 outboard bottom bracket shimano 24mm compatible??
Brilliant vid. Thanks!
Very good
Hi, thanks for the great video!
I also bought these shims but when i install them without the dust seals, they make a rubbing noise as i turn the shims - potentially coming from contacting the outside of the PF30 BB cup.
Did you end up using the outer (dust) seals?
Hi, I'm planning on adding these to my Venge Vias disc. Have you got any creaking so far with these adaptors?
I’ve not experienced any creaking using them.
Great video and have mine arriving tomorrow. Do you not need to replace the washes from the old set up?
Scrap that. Replaced mine last night. Really simple process thanks to your video. 👍
I have a Roubaix with a FSA Gossamer. It now has the dreaded bb30 cracking noise and is driving me mad! If I were to install a 105 chainset using these shims would that get rid of the noise? I have been looking at the Praxis Works converter but these look a good alternative.
Hi Andy7846, I don't think that the shims would necessarily solve your problem as its the interface between the outer bearing shell and the machined surface within the BB causing the problem, and this wont change with these shims.
I think your first step would be to buy a new set of BB30 bearing and see if the problem repeats itself, remove everything inc circlips from the bottom bracket shell and clean and degrease everything spotless. Check to see if there are any witness marks within the contact surfaces within the BB shell of you bike as this might point to the fact that the 1 or both bearing are moving extremely small amount within the BB. This might give you an indication of which side is causing the creak and you can focus your attention there.
Once clean re-install the bearings using a press tool to ensure alignment with loads of quality grease.
If the problem then rears its noisy head again, and you know that its one side causing the problem I would remove the bearings again, clean and degrease everything replace with new ones but this time use 1 or 2 drops of a low strength bearing retaining compound. This should hold the bearings outer race in place within the BB and stop the creaking, but it will make removing the bearings a pain in the arse and they most likely will need to be hydraulically pressed out of the frame.
If all that fail, then I would start looking at the Praxis Works Converter as its quite expensive.
I had the same problem on my 2011 CAAD 10, lucky new bearings and plenty of grease solved it for me.
Hope that of some help
+JDM4K Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I'll post an update when/if I get it sorted.
Hey Andy.
Have you tried a touch of loctite between the bb shell and outer bearing surface? If you smear a small amount of the medium strength (blue) on the surfaces, let it dry, then reinstall, it may help solve the creaking/cracking noise. I've seen it work many times with success, and haven't had any issues removing afterwards etc, though it may take some more force when removing/installing bearing.
do you have the wavy washer installed ? I removed mine and found it kills the noise- the crank will slide a bit without it- that is where you decide if you want to get a better replacement (spacer/washer)
Any luck dude? I just had spesh replace the bearings and they said it would creak anymore. It is using a praxis converter BB. First ride in the hills today putting some watts through and its creaking here and there. I've had another LBS say i need to get a metal shell seated inside the BB as it is the contact between the bearing and the carbon shell thats causing the issue. What did u do to get rid of the creak?
The most helpful video I've found! Curious how many spacers did you have to use on the spindle and did you use spacers on both sides evenly or more on one side?
Hi Kevin. No spacers as such are required if you are using a Shimano chainset as any side to side slop is taken up by the threaded end cap that gets installed around the 4:30 mark. Chainsets made by other manufactures may require some spacers though.
Hi I also have a tarmac with the fsa gossamer. With the change you made did it change the width or spread from the crank to the frame. Cause it looks like it would stick out from the bearing further than the stock setup? Thanks
This crankset conversion and upgrade looks deceptively easy, but is it? I have a 2014 Specialized Ruby that I’ve been thinking of swapping the FSA Gossamer compact crankset to something nicer. What was the benefits to going to this Shimano crankset? Did the cranks go wider?
It’s as easy as it was in the video, you can definitely do better, more durable conversions using Hambini or C-Bear or even wheels manufacturing other options. But it’s also buy a significant margins the cheapest way to do this and my be perfectly adequate for the casual cyclist. The Gossamer are total garbage, recycle them. Shimano are stiffer and lighter and shift better as will many other brands like praxis and srams BB30 stuff.
Just ordered this and 105 5800 crank for my Roubaix. Hope its good. You got any seals with it?
+Aleš Papler
Nope no seals came with the shims, I reused the FSA ones which came with the bike. The fit was very good so they might be excess to requirement to be honest.
JDM4K Thank you for your answer! I should be getting the parts early next week. Cant wait to be honest :)
+JDM4K So i got all installed. Did 150km till now and all is fine. I didnt use any spacers, seals... as it put the drive side outwards too much. I did however have some difficulties fitting one of the adapters on the crank shaft. I thought i wouldnt get it on it, but then after it was 2cm on the shaft its just slipped to the end. The other one fit nicely, but i am a bit worried i wont be able to remove the other one if i decided to use KCNC/ROTOR/PRAXIS adapter. Might need to cut it with a grinder... lets hope not.
All in all, it works.
Oh interesting, I would say mine felt like they were tight initially on the crank spindle, then looser in the middle and tight again but nothing too extreme. I guess they machine tighter tolerances on the spindle where the bearing sit. If you need to take the shim off the crank, instead of cutting or grinding the crank, stick it in the freezer for an hour or so as it will cause the metal to shrink and you should be able it slide it off :)
+JDM4K never thought of that! what a great idea! thx 😀
HOw is it holding up today? Any creaks?
Pretty good. Nothing to complain about so far. I’ve not experienced any creeks.
Great video. I guess these shims are comparable to the BBB BBO-16 shims? Just wondering: why do you take the pedals off?
Urm...because I changed the chainset.
Great video and great information! Did you get any creaks with the shim set after install? Will this shim set work for Dura Ace as well. Want to do the same thing on my 2018 S Works Roubaix. Want to go with Shimano Dura Ace 9100 crankset and chainset. Any additional suggestions or advice will be a great help. Maybe post a link for where to get the shim set. Thanks again!
Jeffrey Victor hi Jeffery, no no creeks for me but these shins won’t fix and already creaking BB. It should work for all hollow tech 2 Shimano chain sets buts it’s worth double checking Wheels Manufacturing’s website as I made this video quite some time ago and BB standards are constantly evolving.
Whilst I like the idea of posting a link where to get the shims from, it wouldn’t work great on an international perspective as it would be wrong link for 92% of my audience.
Wait, are you the ninja dude who I bought that old FSA crankset from?
perfect video.. so bb30/pf30/osbb all pretty much work with the exact same wheels manufacturing adapter? does the helium x frameset come with the pf30 pre-installed?
Yup, if your looking to convert from a 30mm spindle chain set to a Shimano these adapters are sure the simplest and cheapest way of doing it, bear in mind that if your looking as a GXP style the adaptors will be different.
I can’t say I’ve ever heard of a helium x before so I would have no idea if it does or doesn’t.
Brilliant video! Exactly what I eamt to do on exactly the same bike! Honestly,helped me out so much 👍 where can I get the adaptors please?
Ohh I have no idea this video is quite a few years old now. If I were to guess it might had been Merlin Cycles possibly.
@@MozOnBikes i received the adaptors, yours seem a bit more snug than mine 🤔 ive changed the bottom bracket bearings and put adaptors in but they do spin around (obviously they will as they are in the bb bearing) once I have the cranks in though it'll all be tightened up no? Also how come you don't use the spacers and bearings seals?
TIA
Appreciate the video! Looking to change from 52/36 to 50/34 on my Tarmac too. Swapping the rings costs as much as a full 105 chainset... I'll think I will give this ago unless you've experienced any problems...
Do you have a tools list to complete this task?
+MrElTel
Glad you appreciated the video! There certainly are lots of confusing ways to solve this problem but this is the most cost effective and simple way I found whilst figuring out how to do it.
I've only done about 50-60 with them fitted so far as the weathers been quite poor so I've been using my cross bike more. But so far they have been totally perfect with no problems.
I didn't add a tool list as I thought would vary from chainset to chainset, but assuming you have an FSA on your Tarmac they only unusual tools is a big Allen/hex key (12mm I think) to remove the FSA chainset which should self extract against the threaded cover like I'm my video.
Also if your installing a shimano chainset you'll need a shimano crank install tool for hollow tech 2 which is that funny round black key, they are very very cheap to buy.
Hope that's of some help.
After you removed the old crank it seemed like you cleaned the bearings as they looked clean on the outside of them?...but I didn't see any grease on the new crank spindle when you installed it? Do you not have to grease the ultegra spindle at all?
Hi Pete
The bearing were under the black seals with the FSA cranks, but when I looked at installing the adaptors I figured that the actual shape of the adaptor will perform the same job and this is my fair weather bike so it rarely see rain. I might have wiped off any excess grease that was from the factory, I cant remember to be honest, was a year ago I made this!
I don't believe that adding greasing the crank spindle in this installation is necessary, the adaptors are made from Delrin which is an widely used quality engineering plastic. 2 of its key material features are that it stable, machines very accurately and that its also has is very low in friction, so much so you can make bushes for moving parts out of it.
Now normally I would suggest that apply a bit of grease to a spindle, especially when the spindle is aluminium mating directly onto steel bearings is very sensible as it could prevent galvanic corrosion. But in this case with the adaptors between the steel shimano spindle and the steel bearing races I don't think it brings anything to the party.
Mozz Ok. Fair enough. Thanks for the video. I just bought a Specialized Allez Comp w/FSA crank and will be swapping it out for a Shimano crank.... Thanks to you I now know how.
Pete McD67 let us know how that turns out. I've been thinking punching the Allez and installing a quarq power meter... Just a bit unsure.
Hi, very useful video as I'm looking to do the exact same (switch from fsa to ultegra ). just wondered if you had to reuse the washer and seal from the non - drive side when installing the ultegra crankset on? Also is any kind of grease recommended on any parts whilst fitting them? cheers.
Hi, Thanks! It does seem the simplest solution to fit Shimano cranks in a BB30.
As you can see from the video, I didn't bother refitting the dust seal from from the original FSA BB initially, but I went back to the bike the next day to fit them as it was bugging me (It does state in the instructions they are optional). To be honest though I don't think it will make much difference as the shape of shim will stop the dust getting near the bearing. The only grease I used was the Shimano goo that was all over the cranks when I removed them from their packaging. The Shims are made from a material called Delrin which is a engineering plastic than can be used for bushings and bearings so in my mind I don't think loads of grease is necessary for this assembly.
Grease wise if you cranks are not box fresh and covered in the stuff like mine were I would say play it safe and go for the fluro yellow Shimano stuff thats available from most bike shops.
+JDM4K that's great, thanks for your advice !
Great informative video.
Have you altered the chainline?
The chainline should be the same or very close to the original FSA chainset. Shimano Chainset have a recess to account for external style BB and the Wheels Manufacturing shims fill this void.
Did you gain any clearance at the rear stays?
Everything being equal, you will not gain any clearance to the stays. But saying that different crank arm have more or less clearance. Im guessing you're look for a way to space a chainset out for a crank arm based power meter or something along those lines?
Very helpful video. I am looking to replace my Rotor 3DS cranks with Ultegra 6800 and this is very helpful. can you post the link to the site where you bought the shims from. Thanks
Thank's, glad it was helpful. I spent some considerable time trying to figure out the best ways to swap from a BB30 style to a Shimano style.
I bought the shims from the UK retailer Wiggle (www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/) but they are fairly common and widely available.
how are the shims after a few months of use? I'm looking for a solution to fit a GXP crank on a bb30a ,hope they don't wear fast...what is your experience?
John Hofman so far they have been perfect. Totally fit and forget. They shouldn't wear as they rotate with the cranks in the bearings.
thx JDM4K
Great video! I have same FSA and want to change to Ultegra. Did you notice a considerable difference with the 2? Thanks.
Hi. What about praxis works osbb converter for specialized? Do they work the same?
I don't know any details of this product, so cant make an informed comment.
nice video..i used r8000 crank and i planning to go sram gxp what adaptor do i need? thanks
RICHIE DE VERA if I read that correct your trying to mix an shimano chainset with a gxp bottom bracket? In that case it’s impossible as the diameter of the shimano axle is larger than the bearing size of the gxp bearings.
@@MozOnBikes thanks for repply.. sorry but what i mean im going to change the crankset to sram gxp maybe i change also the bb? what bb type? thanks again bro..
And you have a BB30?
@@MozOnBikes i don't think so.. but it's a pressfit ultegra r8000 crankset.. Thank's bro.
Hmm really not sure without more specifics, there are far too many BB standards out there to take a guess. Check out the Wheels Manufacturing website, it’s pretty handy and they’ll probably have the answer your looking for.
Well that is way easier then I was imagining. Looks like I can do it myself.
Did you grease the spindle before putting it into the bottom bracket?
I did not see him use any grease on the spindle, but as the spindle will not be in contact with any metal and only the high quality (hopefully) plastic of the adapters, this is not an issue.
I would have greased the pedal threads with some lithium grease though, and also use a torque wrench for the non drive side crank arm bolts.
Oh, and I would totally not use these adapters, and instead swap the bottom bracket bearings for a wider stance option, like Rotor, Wheels Manufactured, White industries, Token, Praxis Works, BBinfinite or Hambini (there are probably even more options out there).
This must have been the easiest to remove set of the pedals in the history of time.
Pretty helpful! Thank you
Does this solution fit for shimano mountain bike cranksets series?
My guess is that it would, but at best that would be a guess. Depends on your frames BB and the width of cranks you were intending to install (boost or non boost etc).
Mozz I have xt770 crankset, and bb30 bearing with adapter. Hope that works
nice video, how have the shims been running since you fitted them?
+dan le poidevin
Hi, thanks for watching.
Its early days yet I would say I've only done 50-60 miles on the new chainset, but so far they have been totally faultless and the Ultegra chainset feels significantly stiffer when you're mashing on the pedals.
As the shims are quite cheap compared to the other solutions, I would defo recommend trying them first if you were considering a similar set up.
Hello!
Some time has passed. Do you still recommend the adapters?
No cracking squeaking? :D
Adrian T.
Hi Adrian, well the adaptors won’t solve any cracking or squeaking if it already exists, but yes I would recommend.
I’ve just bought a Specialized Diverge that has a BB30 style bottom bracket. I plan on upgrading that bike to a Shimano GRX and I will need to adapt it to a Shimano 24mm spindle. I will buy another set of these Wheels Manufacturing adaptors to do this, and probably re-make this video as it’s getting old now.
@@MozOnBikes Sounds great!
No, not any already existing squeaking, just curious if the system created any after the installation. :D
Ahh sounds like the product for you then, I just worry people look to doing this to solve creaking. Plus it’s the cheapest way to do the conversion. They are made from a engineering plastic called Delrin which I’ve design bushes and low angle bearing from myself so it’s really shouldn’t creak or squeak .
I noticed that you did not replace the bearing shield (the ring immediately against the bearing when you removed the old crank) when you installed the adapter. Can you explain why you no longer needed it? I was on the phone with wheels today and they said I should re-install the bearing shield.
I believe you are referring to the dust covers?
They are optional in the system if you read the instructions. There’s a pdf of the instructions available on the wheels manufacturing website.
The way the shims sit against the bearings they pretty much make the dust covers redundant.
Also I’ve recently fitted a set to a Cannondale CAADX but with the dust covers in place the they spaced out the crank a little too much to the point where I couldn’t engage the plastic locking pin on shimano cranks into the spindle.
Thanks for your reply. Actually they are technically called bearing shields but in any case I didn't receive any installation instructions and so I followed your video but when I initially installed my 105 crank, they would not spin freely when I tightened the non-drive side crank arm.
So in speaking to Wheels today they said I should re-install the shields because they are grooved to rest against the rim of the bearing and don't press against the seal/bearings like the adapters might creating friction. . There was resistance so something is not right. I guess I need to either get the shields back in or add shims.
Does this add any friction to the system? Will it decrease power at all? I'd love to run my Shimano crank on my Cannondale.
No additional friction
Moz On Bikes Thanks for the reply!
thank you
Was this the BB30 shim kit, or the universal?
Does that Change the qfactor? Or is the shimano spindle narrower?
Will this one work on dura ace r9100 on my 2017 venge?thanks in advance
I’m not sure on the bottom bracket standard with that year Venge, I think that could be the first year of the Vias version and Specialized do like to change the standards they use. It’s best to do some research to figure out what standard you have then find the appropriate parts to adapt.
@@MozOnBikes thanks alot..more power..
I have just got a cube agree sl 2012, says bb34 which not seen before and has a 19mm hole. And the shell is 85 mm, reckon they could be a solution? Am at a lost with it been looking into all day. Any suggestions would be great
Ive not heard of BB34 before and I cant seem to find much about it. I had a bit of a think about this over the weekend and talked to a few bike industry friends. Hazarding a guess that you have SRAM chainset with a GPX axel or the FSA equivalent? I think you might be able to use these to fit a Shimano chainset, but you'd also need a new set of BB30 compatible bearings with fit within your Cubes BB shell and I cant seem to find much about what diameter the outer bearing shell would be. It might be a good but to find a local bike shop thats a Cube dealer and quiz them a little before ordering any thing, or even ask Cube directly.
Mozz thanks for the response, I ended up getting a praxis and took it to one of my lbs to fit, turns put need a bb86, and hopefully has been fixed as they ordered one for me today and hopefully get it picked up on Wednesday.
thanks for the response I appreciate the thought and time.
No worries! The whole BB "standards" is an absolute mine field and totally confusing.
Is the adapter suppose to rotate with the crank?
Yes!
how to remove the adapter? my adapter is come from s-works tarmac sl5 for bb30. I have tried twice, it pop out with the bearing but not only adapter itself.
Hmm seems like the bearing is tighter fit to the adapter than it is in the frame. Sounds like a job for a bearing pulling tool or a press tool to remove the bearing from the adapter. Probs best take it to a bike shop.
Do you know if adapters "BB30 - 24mm Wheels Manufacturing"can be used in mtb to install shimano xt8000? Can they produce crunches when pedaling?
My guess is that it would, but at best that would be a guess. Depends on your frames BB and the width of the xt8000 cranks you were installing (boost or non boost etc).
Bom vídeo, mas esqueceu de passar graxa no eixo do pedivela, nos adaptadores e na rosca do pedal.
Wait.. so you can fit an Ultegra 6800 crank with bb30? Without any adapters?
Well they are still adaptors, but yes using the standard bearings and these adaptor shims it simple and it works.
alright thank you for the advice :)
please, these two screws are screwed with a torque wrench, 14 Nm
Just bought a R8000 crank and thinking of calling Wheels Manufacturing. My bike is PF30 w/ a Praxis Works conversion BB to GXP. Spindle are both 24mm so don't know why they're not listed as being compatible with Shimano's 24 mm
I don’t entirely follow what you’re saying, but a GXP is 24 one end and 22 at the other so that might be the reason?!? 🤷♂️
@@MozOnBikes yes, I figured it had something to do with that. I went with the Praxis Works shimano BB30 conversion. All these BB standards are so annoying. Great video BTW. And thanks for taking the time to reply
use what brand the adapter??
+Tony Wong
The Adapters/Shims I used were made by Wheels Manufacturing.
Preload screw needs a bit more pressure than normal to push against the inner race as the Wheelsmfg is quite a snug fit inside the bearing. Just a tip.
No torque required or specified for the crank cap`?
According to Park Tool its 4-6 In-lb. As you can see my tool for this has no fixings to attach a torque wrench, just like thumb grips. I've just been snugging them up finger tight with it for years with no problem.
Moz On Bikes Thanks :)
I want to install 105 5800/tiagra 4700 on my cannondale caad 8, will it work fine?
I’m not sure what bottom bracket a caad8 has but I’m sure wheels manufacturing make a suitable spacer shim like this that’ll work perfectly.
Moz On Bikes it's written bb30 on the frame
BB30のベアリングに直接
24のアダプターベアリングを圧入してる？ですか？
so does this get rid of teh bb30 creak?
TheRoshan I’ve got 3 BB30/OSBB bikes, never had any of them creak. But saying that I don’t think these shins will solve a creaky BB problem.
Please give us an update after a few months. This is a really simple solution compared to the adapters which requires removal of the inner bearings.
+David Morgan
I will do, I've not really used my Venge much since installation as its my best dry weather bike so I've still only done 50-60 miles on them. You totally right, I think its totally worth giving these a go before trying some of the screw in style adaptors to use the Shimano cups.
Grease is not needed for the shims?
+Robert Mikkelsen if I remember correctly they are made from a plastic called Delrin. This is often used to make bushes and static bearings. I don't think grease is needed.
Is it possible to remove the adapters?
Protein The adaptors have a light press fit in the bearings. You should be able to pull them out with just your fingers. If not it they might require gently tapping out from the opposite side of the bottom bracket using something like a blunt drift pin or similar. Should be an easy job and noting to worry about.
Nice, thank you very much. I was thinking of buying special tools or a trip to the bike shop...
Can the adapter creaking ???
Not in my experience. But if your bike is already creaking these adapters will not fix the problem.
Easy to stop the creaking, just put about two tablespoons of penetrating oil in the crankcase/BB shell. This will keep everything in the BB happy, just like a motorbike. You gotta have oil in the crankcase. It doesnt leak out of the BB case cause there is no oil pressure to push it out. Cheers.
Yes! Get rid of those gossamers! Worst cranks ever
why? :)
1:17/18 is there a repeat?
matthew Xiang yes, same operation from different angles.
Thanks.
Tesla freehub body?
Afraid not, its a Zipp wheelset, so a Zipp freehub body.
RIP BB30
What are we stuck with this crap... Bsa all the way!
Honestly, bike manufacturers are huge dingdongs. Why don't they stick to a universal standard?
There are too many universal standards is the issue. Saying that BB386evo is probably the best, most universal standard that should be settled on I believe. Seems like the industry is heading in that direction.
@@MozOnBikes In my opinion, bike manufacturers create their own proprietary standards for maximum revenue gain. So that consumers could only acquire certain features exclusive to their company. Kinda like Apple's strategy in consumer electronics.
Therefore a universal standard across the bike industry is next to impossible.
Maybe, but someone need to invent new stuff and design better products. At the end of the day it’s bearings in a hole with a shaft that spins. Most of the innovation in road cycling are coming from the mountain bike side for decades not. Road based stuff applied from when there was universal standards was utter crap and actually quite heavy. The amount of square tape cranks and bottom brackets I snapped or bent was outrageous. Ended up moving to heavy bmx cranks for a while until hollowtech came along. But all this time Cannondales magic motorcycle chainset had it right from the early 90s.
Did you really not have to adjust cable tension on the front derailleur? I've just changed my compact to a standard and am struggling to get the tension right after raising the front mech, any tips?
Philip Ross
Yes I had to redo the whole set up of the front mech as I was changing from a mid compact to a compact.
I decided not to include an in depth mech adjustment as I felt it distracted from the focus of the video for the majority of people who I would think would be maintaining their chainring sizes.
There's a good video on front mech set up on the Global Cycling Network (GCN) that should help you.