One thing to note is that 135 and 142 are actually the same hub, thus the same chain line. The OLD is technically different, but that's just because 142 was made for thru-axles. The 142 dropout has a shoulder/inset for locating the hub to ease thru-axle installation, so the "locknut"/endcap is just a little longer as opposed to actually changing the chain line and/or hub flange width.
Greta video on the subject of chain line. I discovered that best chain line for me, was closet to the frame. I have a sram rear set up with a Garburuk 6mm offset and standard easton crankset. I spend all of my time in the lower gears, it works out great for me.
Well put together video, thanks. I generally like to think I know a thing or two about bikes, but chainline is one of those things I take a guess at and just hope to be right.
Great explanation! Yours is the Best explanation of the boost crank I've found. The illustrations are great. I tried to setup a Shimano Boost crank 2x12 yesterday that came with 2 spacers but the safety plate doesn't click in if I use both. It's strange. This is fc-m8120-b2. If I use one spacer it clicks right in. Not sure how that works as I need to bridge 6mm of Q-factor compared to the non boost version but only use 1x 3mm spacer. Not much info on these 2x12 crank sets either.
This was such an excellent overview! I have been looking at crank options on my flat-bar gravel bike which is a 135 OLD frame, so it looks like SRAM cranks will be my best option since Shimano's non-boost cranks seem to have excessively wide FCL for my application. I'm looking at running something like a 38T Wolftooth ring on a SRAM DUB crank which seems like that will work A-OK with my narrower RCL hub...I think.
ive never believed in it, unless it needs it. but then again ive always entered the world of sram products lmao!!! to replace my shimano stuff if it comes down to me riding a single speed or a normal geared bike ive always ran sram for gears an for ss a xt non boost crank... i understand the chainline stuff but if it works use it i say
Your explanation is well put together and easy to understand. Thanks for decoding the bike industry. I think one of my bikes has that problem- headed to measure my f.c.l. vs r.c.l. (Sweet! Now I have an excuse to upgrade cranks.)
Great info and I just subbed your channel. I do have a question. I am building a new trek fuel ex with 55mm chain line. I ordered a race face era 55mm crank set and xtr cassette. Ive been searching for an oval chain ring to put on this build but just cant seem to find a match for the right offset. For example my research says I need a zero offset for 55 chain line as 3mm offset is for 52mm chain line. I would appreciate your input on this. Thanks
You are correct in your research, for 55mm chainline you need 0mm offset on the chainring (raceface and sram both work this way). 0mm offset = 55mm offset(super boost/new sram transmission boost) 3mm offset = 52mm offset(boost) 6mm offset = 49mm offset(non-boost)
if my chain drops on low gears when i am backpedaling, should I decrease the boost on my crank ? Right now I have a 3mm offset on my chainring with a 12speed cassette. I have very smooth shifting, it even seem better under load, but my chain drops when i backpedal on 1st and 2nd gear. Should I opt for 0mm offset chainring ?
Another great video! Was a little confused on all the different boost terms and this cleared that all up. Question for you for the next video: What's your favorite local trail/ride? And are there any new (to you) trails that you're hoping to check out this year?
Thanks for putting out this video! 🍻Running a similar drivetrain as you are, but I made the mistake of going with the M7120 crankset. 😬 Since you've mentioned, thought I'd ask what your day job is?
The Shimano x100 cranks, are designed for boost. Which is why they are for 135/142/148 O.L.D and designed around chainline of 52mm. 51-53mm was apparently the best chainline for boost. With frame design changing and wider tyre clearance needed then the 55mm chainline has become a thing. x120 cranks. But the 6100/7100/8100 are still “Boost” Unless your frame is designed around a 55mm chainline you’re better off with the 52mm chainline cranks
...just to add that the FSA Modular (e.g., SL-K) crankset allows for nicely adjusting the chainline without changing Q factor by simply moving the spacer or installing a chainring with different offset (e.g., the Cannondale-compatible chainrings from Garbaruk with adjusted chainline dependent on tooth number). I converted my non-Boost MtB tandem from 3x10 to 1x12 and adjusted the chain line for the best shifting performance.
This is one of the better explanations I have seen. I like the fact that you pointed out the chain suck issues when they are not lines up properly. My spectral does that and it's annoying.
Thank you, excellent guidance, all clarity, no ego and no b.s. It’s rare on youtube. I’ve subscribed. I have two questions related to SRAM Gravel cranks and chainlines which might be of interest to others: 1. SRAM mullet on gravel bike - why do bike makers spec ‘road’ cranks / 45mm chainline with a ‘mtb’ cassette? I’ve had to replace my Force 1x DUB ‘road’ cranks with DUB ‘wide’ cranks to acheive a 47.5mm chainline because the ‘road’ cranks chainring was only 1mm from the chain stay! 2. Where on earth is the definitive online up to date guide to ALL Cranks, bb's, chainlines, spacer, combinations? ...It’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. EG: unless you have a SRAM BB, the published SRAM BB spacer guidelines for both road and wide cranks is incorrect, because SRAM BB’s have spacers built in. The bike brands don't have a full guide online, even for the parts they use, and the bb manufacturers don't either.
Some bike manufacturers, like yeti tell you what their ideal chain line measurement for the specific bike model is. So when building a bike from the frame up see if you can find that measurement before buying the wrong crank set. When I was building my sb140 yeti recommended a 55mm chain line with a 148 boost spaced rear hub. So I referenced the crank set I wanted to use which was the race face era crankset and found it is offered in a 136mm spindle with a chain line of 52mm. So for my chainring I bought a 3mm offset wolf tooth chainring which enabled me to have that 55mm chain line. Had to add a couple 1mm spacers for the crank but it really was very straight forward getting the right chain line. Making sure you have the right spacers for your bikes bb spacing and the right spindle width is another thing that is easily messed up when building bikes from the frame up. Since shimano, raceface, and sram all have different width spindles for their cranks you need to take what bb you have into account before deciding what crankset to get. Or choose a crankset and then get a bb to accommodate it.
This is the video that I’ve been needing! Thank you RUclips algorithm for serving it up and thank you for creating a great vid! I’m working on a brand bike build and figuring out the drivetrain has been a nightmare. My build is a 2022 V4 Santa Cruz Tallboy with Boost hub spacing. Santa Cruz doesn’t publish their chain line spec, but their support told me it’s 55mm for Shimano and 52mm for SRAM. Huh? I’m planning to run RaceFace Turbine cranks (1x 30T) with a Garbaruk 10-52 cassette (microspline) and Shimano XT chain & derailleur. I’m going to try a 52mm chain line using RF’s standard Shimano chainring. They also make a “wide” chain ring for Shimano. Hopefully it all works happily together! There’s a great article about the evolution (and controversy) around MTB chainlines on Radavist if you wanna deep dive into the hidden side of chain lines. Excellent read for bike nerds 🤓
Hello i'm planning to upgrade my Deore M6100 cranks to XT's, been wondering if i should get the M8100 or M8120. I have 52mm chainline btw, Thanks so much
How to make bikes fat like cows. Makes me appreciate my 125mm QR rear axle and LOW Q FACTOR 113mm bottom bracket so much! And GREAT cornering clearance. Be jealous! Most will never experience it today.
Thanks for the video. I just recently went from 2x11 to 1X10 so I could have used this video then. What's more in was on a Cannondale Scalpel-Si which happens to be Ai (not artificial intelligence). Luckily I was able to find an Ai offset set of cranks (although) they were expensive. I found out the hard way that Cannondale's proprietary approach makes it difficult (and expensive) to change what comes stock. At any rate, I have really been enjoying the microshift 10 speed while dropping one of the chainrings. I have lost some gears but not many (and not the ones I need for climbing). At any rate, at the outset a lot of this seems somewhat complex, but once you understand the lingo, it's really not so bad. I called numerous vendors trying to get answers (including cannondale). In the end, I just had to try a few different things until I found the solution.
Aloha! I’m thinking of putting a SRAM Eagle GX group set on my Surly Wednesday Fat Bike that I’m building out with 27.5 x 4” Rims/Tires with a 100mm threaded bottom bracket. Should I go with the original group set or boost…?
So with the 7100 crankset your not dropping the chain off when in the largest cog and back-pedaling? Cus thats what ive been dealing with got the 7120 crankset but my frame says max chaineline is 55mm so idk maybe thinkin of getting 7100cranks
@TheBikeSauce , could you maybe direct me to a 3rd party chainring manufacturer that makes an offset chainring that would get me the 55mm chainline on M7100 cranks? I did not realise that the bike I built up needs to run the wider chainline when I bought my crankset, really dont want to have to buy another crankset to overcome this problem
Practically speaking whatever it is FCL you always consider frame BB shell width. You may encounter problems with long crank spindle if your BB FRAME SHELL is around 83mm only.
I'm 6'3" with a relatively wide stance, so i got myself an Shimano superboost crank for my singlespeed because of the higher q-factor. Combined it with the stein 104bcd to Directmount adapter (aliexpress) to move the chainline in again by 3mm, with a my 6hole cog in a cog carrier on the most outer position of the freehub of an 135mm hub i was able to make it work.
I have a Giant XTC1 ('26). I had a tapered BB. 3x9 But now going to a 1x10/11. My BB is 86mm. I believe I'm in a limbo. I don't know if I will need or not need a 3mm boost crank. Maybe you are the expert you can tell me 😁
What size of bottom bracket spacers do I need if I want to replace the GRX crankset on my gravel bike with an XT crankset? (I want to use a chainring even smaller than the Wolftooth 36-tooth chaining for certain bikepacking routes with monstrous elevation gain.) Can I use a the non-drive side GRX crank arm with drive-side XT crank arm and chain ring? (I want to keep using the power meter on the my old non-drive side GRX crank arm.) Hope you can shed light on this. Thanks. Keep up the content.
I made the boost crank mistake while building my Trek Stache. Bought a non boost afterwards and it was ten times better without the boost. Never been able to use on any of my builds.
Very clear and concise, thanks. I am building an "adventure touring" bike from the frame up. I am going to use a 2X (24-34) in this build and I want it to accept 2.6" wide 29" tires. The chain stays are flared for a plus size tire, they are totally tubular, no solid piece on the drive side like the Honzo. I am thinking boost crank and hubs would be wise. Do you agree?
I am kinda sick of these standards. So many shite floating around. I understand that good engineers are working in automotive industry, but this is insane.
Thank you! I have a nonboost setup . I converted years ago to 1x11. Now I have new rims ( nonboost) , and the shimano hyperglide xtr setup. Didn't realize the hg+ is proprietary. So it doesn't work with my absolute black oval chainring. It is a 6mm offset. There the problem, there aren't any . All hg+ chainrings on the market are 3mm offset!? I have racefsce cinch cranks f.y.i. There is a spacer on the drive side spindle of 5mm. Any thoughts?
Damn. I wanted to try 165mm cranks and got the Slx boost crankset thinking this was correct for my rear boost spacing (148mm). Sure enough this will increase my front chainline from 52 to 55mm. I wonder if this change is enough to mess up shifting
Yes. You want them the chain lines are better for the wider tires and gear ranges. Now if you are old school and run a bike with QR wheels and say SLX 2x10 no, there is no need to complicate your life. I’ll say boost fork spacing is worth it
Bike components companies should sell spindel and BB or just BB and have it as 3 piece like BMX cranks. It would just get rid of all this spacing hassle. You just buy the right length spindle and send it🤘
An average road q factor is like 150. An average mtb q factor is like 170. And you kept suggesting the crank vendors were trying not to increase q factor. But what if you want to increase q factor. Washers can increase q factor maybe 2 mm. Extenders increase q factor by 20 each or 40 and thats huge. Or you can wear speedplay and fall on your ass if you try to walk - not so good for cx. Can you extend q factor like 10 mm some other way like w cranks? 5:29
For xc this boost thingy is just gimmick at this point. 27.5 and 26 doesn't need boost. Only the 29er. You want more durable wheels, use better material.
Why haven't bicycle tires been developed that can at a very minimum resist punctures from goat heads. ¿ I surmise that the Reason could be, that all the sales profits from flat fixing products and troublesome tubeless products would greatly reduced?
Thanks for a great video. Simpler and easier than the one from Park Tool in my opinion. I use 6 mm offset chainring (SRAM GX drivetrain) on my FS bike with boost due to a former wheelset. As I more often use the bigger cogs when I ride, this actually seems like a better chainline ("eye-wise"). I'm building a wheelset for my HT (Shimano drivetrain) with non-boost hubs and have a crankset with 55 mm FCL. Been looking for a Shimano compatible chainring, but the ones I've found are as expensive as a new 52 mm FLC crank...
I got superboost or what ever it's called on my Pivot Switchblade, and to me it's a hunk of junk. Especially given the pressfit BB solution which is an achilles heel in my opinion. I tried mounting an eThirteen bashguard/chainguard on it, and no matter the configuration of spacers I used, I either ended up rubbing chain against chainguard, or even chain against the bashguard itself. I ended up just removing the chainguard and run just the bashguard as a compromize to live without the rubbing. If it was up to me I'd chose threaded BB every single time.
I'm just saying. I never ever broke a cranksystem in my entire life time. And I am 50 years old by now. I tried Shimano and SRAM, and Pro. Those three,...never ever broke. And overall the same happiness using them. It just depends on XT Shimano use and comparing that specific formula, with SRAM, hands out a completely unarranged picture, wince I do not think they can be compared, they each need different riding styles. And in the same styles, they surely perform differently. Depending on how I want a ride to be ridden or need it to be ridden. You adapt the route also to your system...try make it perform, on the areas, it is made for, a sane question to ask yourself. This means that you are actually needing to compare all these systems, per person using it. Or any of these investigative videos render kind of useless. :D
Boost and super boost were brought to the bike industry to make bikes uncompatible between frames, models and brands so you have to spend more money. Prior to the 148mm rear and 110mm front it used to be 142mm rear and 100mm front l, and for over a decade, we were able to swap parts from frame to frame wihout any issues. Now a days, its a different story. Most riders had to migrate to the “boost” trend to be able to follow up. Bike industry is a scam. Motorbikes are cheaper!
Tell us about your day job. How does it help you think about bicycles? I wish the manufacturers would publish these compatibilities or of there were universal geometry numbers on these e.g. effective chain line front and rear.
It make sense with more gears for wider hub and not for hub that don’t need more gears such as down hill bike. Unless they need more gears to climb before going down.
I have a super weird bottom bracket that I can’t find the tool to remove it. It’s coming off a mongoose tomac mtb 1987. I found a tool that could work if I file it but I’m really trying to use the proper tool. Anyone can help?
Great explanation with better drawings to help us understand science behind it. If for MTB is a mess for Gravel is even worse. I think. For example the Lauf Seigla has a BSA 73 bottom bracket where you can installa a wide Sram XPLR but also play with MTB cranckset with the right length if you wanna try any other MTB brand instead, which is my preference to have choices instead being trapped with Sram/Lauf setup
wait what, parts of this video seem wrong... 49mm is non boost chainline, 52mm is boost chainline, 55mm is the new boost chainline(due to sram transmission)(it also happens to be the close to the super boost chainline)
So is the SLX crankset you showed actually non boost spacing? I’m asking because I’ve been looking for a set of standard spaced cranks to go on my girls rockhopper XS. She needs 165mm arms so it’s been a bit of a challenge to find a quality Shimano set to convert to 1x. I know you used deore on your girls rockhopper but that set only goes down to 170mm. Any suggestions?
The one I’m running is non boost, yes. As for shorter cranks, you might have to go 3rd party. Dixna La cranks are hollow tech compatible and come in a bunch of sizes
Ofc you do! You need everything you are told, so buy this and when you are on your way, get your smart watch finally and replace your one year old iPhone!
Too many 148mm boost bikes leave the shop floor spec'd with incorrect 1x12 chain line, which in my case caused the frustrating chain drop from the 51T sprocket on techie climbs when back pedalling. Just changed the M7120 to M7100 to correct this problem CL 55mm to 52mm. It's easy to test if this works by removing the drive side 3mm spacer and adding it to the spindle on the LH side. Sure the cranks are now offset, but it's a cheap way to test chain line before buying a new crankset.
Damn i bought a groupset slx/xt take off and its 7120 cranks and literally dropping chaine when back pedaling in gear 9,10,11,12 smh i was reading online and alot of people saying its normal on 1x12 drivetrains... but some saying its a chainline issuse. So what your saying is now that u have the 7100cranks you can back pedal on the biggest coggs??
Yes... well almost. Gears 10, 11 & 12 always dropped on the 7120's. Now it's good on 10 & 11, but will drop from 12 after a 180 degree back pedal. Heaps better, but not perfect. Its worth doing the math. Boost 148mm axle = 74mm from centre line out to the end of the axle. Chainring on 52mm chainline is then straight on the cog 22 mm inboard from the end of axle. For most bikes with 52mm CL that's about between cog #5 and 6. Still biased to the small cogs, hence the issue I still have with cog #12. Some bikes have conflicts with CL and chainring size, rings hitting the rear stays. With a 30t chainring I could squeeze out a 50.5mm chainline, but Shimano cranks are centre fixed and the standard offset increments from a third party chainring supplier is 3mm.@@soilBGuRu420
Aahh Why should I worry about all of that???? 😅 I just want to enjoy the riding and outdoor scenery. Get away from it all sort of speak. Spare me all this gebarich😂
When you do your Ritchey Outback build could you talk about your assessment of its frame geometry, what sort of riding you intend to do on it and how that effects the choice of components, wheels, tyres etc. With my RO build I want to select what suits the bike rather then throwing my favourite components on it.
I'm new to mtb and currently building my own dream bike. With this video, it's clear that I have to settle for a non-boost crankset for my boost frame with a shimano slx boost hub rear. Thank you so much for this great explanation!
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THANK YOU! it's so frustrating that more people haven't spread the word about how limited boost crank applications actually are in reality
Your illustrations are always so amazing and really help to make your points even more clear. Keep up the great work!
Thx!
@@TheBikeSauce you must be an engineer
🤘
Good 👍 👍 👍
Good video. Cleared up a couple of things I had questions about. Thanks.
One thing to note is that 135 and 142 are actually the same hub, thus the same chain line. The OLD is technically different, but that's just because 142 was made for thru-axles. The 142 dropout has a shoulder/inset for locating the hub to ease thru-axle installation, so the "locknut"/endcap is just a little longer as opposed to actually changing the chain line and/or hub flange width.
Right on! Thx for the contribution
Greta video on the subject of chain line.
I discovered that best chain line for me, was closet to the frame. I have a sram rear set up with a Garburuk 6mm offset and standard easton crankset. I spend all of my time in the lower gears, it works out great for me.
Harbor Freight sells a lazer skil saw guide . Magnetic base very adjustable , and cheap
This video is excellent 👌 Building a custom bike at the moment and been scratching my head over cranks😂
Well put together video, thanks. I generally like to think I know a thing or two about bikes, but chainline is one of those things I take a guess at and just hope to be right.
Great explanation! Yours is the Best explanation of the boost crank I've found. The illustrations are great.
I tried to setup a Shimano Boost crank 2x12 yesterday that came with 2 spacers but the safety plate doesn't click in if I use both. It's strange. This is fc-m8120-b2. If I use one spacer it clicks right in. Not sure how that works as I need to bridge 6mm of Q-factor compared to the non boost version but only use 1x 3mm spacer. Not much info on these 2x12 crank sets either.
This was such an excellent overview! I have been looking at crank options on my flat-bar gravel bike which is a 135 OLD frame, so it looks like SRAM cranks will be my best option since Shimano's non-boost cranks seem to have excessively wide FCL for my application. I'm looking at running something like a 38T Wolftooth ring on a SRAM DUB crank which seems like that will work A-OK with my narrower RCL hub...I think.
I've been watching a couple of your videos. Very good stuff
I put a boost road crank (151 q-factor) on my boost (148) hardtail, pedals much better, less ducky, and creates a perfectly centered chainline.
Most boost hardtails only need a non-boost crank chainline. The complication comes with full suspension bikes.
I'm building a 157 SB+ bikepacking and trail bike, hoping for better plus tire clearance and chainline
Well said young man,👍
‘Young man’ I’ll take it!
ive never believed in it, unless it needs it. but then again ive always entered the world of sram products lmao!!! to replace my shimano stuff if it comes down to me riding a single speed or a normal geared bike ive always ran sram for gears an for ss a xt non boost crank... i understand the chainline stuff but if it works use it i say
Your explanation is well put together and easy to understand. Thanks for decoding the bike industry.
I think one of my bikes has that problem- headed to measure my f.c.l. vs r.c.l.
(Sweet! Now I have an excuse to upgrade cranks.)
I've a question! What gearing would you consider too low that it's unusable?
Mtb looks fun
In reality, it’s both fun AND expensive 😂
Great info and I just subbed your channel. I do have a question. I am building a new trek fuel ex with 55mm chain line. I ordered a race face era 55mm crank set and xtr cassette. Ive been searching for an oval chain ring to put on this build but just cant seem to find a match for the right offset. For example my research says I need a zero offset for 55 chain line as 3mm offset is for 52mm chain line. I would appreciate your input on this. Thanks
You are correct in your research, for 55mm chainline you need 0mm offset on the chainring (raceface and sram both work this way).
0mm offset = 55mm offset(super boost/new sram transmission boost)
3mm offset = 52mm offset(boost)
6mm offset = 49mm offset(non-boost)
if my chain drops on low gears when i am backpedaling, should I decrease the boost on my crank ? Right now I have a 3mm offset on my chainring with a 12speed cassette. I have very smooth shifting, it even seem better under load, but my chain drops when i backpedal on 1st and 2nd gear. Should I opt for 0mm offset chainring ?
Another great video! Was a little confused on all the different boost terms and this cleared that all up. Question for you for the next video: What's your favorite local trail/ride? And are there any new (to you) trails that you're hoping to check out this year?
I have an old slx cranset fc-m670 and I would like to use it on my stumpy evo (I'm downgrading back to 10 speed), will it work?
respect
Talking about boost you've explained chainline in an easier way than videos only talking about it 😅
Good 👍 👍
Thanks for putting out this video! 🍻Running a similar drivetrain as you are, but I made the mistake of going with the M7120 crankset. 😬
Since you've mentioned, thought I'd ask what your day job is?
Bike standards just get more and more insane.
Good 👍 👍
"standards" seems like too strong of a word.
More and more profitable
Insanely confusing
No standars😂
The Shimano x100 cranks, are designed for boost. Which is why they are for 135/142/148 O.L.D and designed around chainline of 52mm. 51-53mm was apparently the best chainline for boost.
With frame design changing and wider tyre clearance needed then the 55mm chainline has become a thing. x120 cranks.
But the 6100/7100/8100 are still “Boost”
Unless your frame is designed around a 55mm chainline you’re better off with the 52mm chainline cranks
Good 👍 👍 👍
Was about to get a boost crankset because my hardtail has a boost rear hub. Turns out non boost is the way to go. Thank you for the explanation man!
Great explanation, I’m 15years out of riding and just starting to wrap my head around all this….
Clear concise info, great work.
...just to add that the FSA Modular (e.g., SL-K) crankset allows for nicely adjusting the chainline without changing Q factor by simply moving the spacer or installing a chainring with different offset (e.g., the Cannondale-compatible chainrings from Garbaruk with adjusted chainline dependent on tooth number). I converted my non-Boost MtB tandem from 3x10 to 1x12 and adjusted the chain line for the best shifting performance.
Are you still digging the upgraded Rockhopper? Any thoughts on a good wheel set upgrade for that bike?
Still going strong. Can't go wrong with Hunt alloy wheels. The XC wides would be a super upgrade
This is one of the better explanations I have seen. I like the fact that you pointed out the chain suck issues when they are not lines up properly. My spectral does that and it's annoying.
Curious Minds want to know...
Thanks
Thank you, excellent guidance, all clarity, no ego and no b.s. It’s rare on youtube. I’ve subscribed.
I have two questions related to SRAM Gravel cranks and chainlines which might be of interest to others:
1. SRAM mullet on gravel bike - why do bike makers spec ‘road’ cranks / 45mm chainline with a ‘mtb’ cassette? I’ve had to replace my Force 1x DUB ‘road’ cranks with DUB ‘wide’ cranks to acheive a 47.5mm chainline because the ‘road’ cranks chainring was only 1mm from the chain stay!
2. Where on earth is the definitive online up to date guide to ALL Cranks, bb's, chainlines, spacer, combinations? ...It’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. EG: unless you have a SRAM BB, the published SRAM BB spacer guidelines for both road and wide cranks is incorrect, because SRAM BB’s have spacers built in. The bike brands don't have a full guide online, even for the parts they use, and the bb manufacturers don't either.
What is your day job? Speaking of which….. @Three Weavers try the Day Job - Strong Pale Ale.
Answers at the end of next weeks video! (Thx for participating )
Some bike manufacturers, like yeti tell you what their ideal chain line measurement for the specific bike model is. So when building a bike from the frame up see if you can find that measurement before buying the wrong crank set. When I was building my sb140 yeti recommended a 55mm chain line with a 148 boost spaced rear hub. So I referenced the crank set I wanted to use which was the race face era crankset and found it is offered in a 136mm spindle with a chain line of 52mm. So for my chainring I bought a 3mm offset wolf tooth chainring which enabled me to have that 55mm chain line. Had to add a couple 1mm spacers for the crank but it really was very straight forward getting the right chain line. Making sure you have the right spacers for your bikes bb spacing and the right spindle width is another thing that is easily messed up when building bikes from the frame up. Since shimano, raceface, and sram all have different width spindles for their cranks you need to take what bb you have into account before deciding what crankset to get. Or choose a crankset and then get a bb to accommodate it.
This is the video that I’ve been needing! Thank you RUclips algorithm for serving it up and thank you for creating a great vid! I’m working on a brand bike build and figuring out the drivetrain has been a nightmare. My build is a 2022 V4 Santa Cruz Tallboy with Boost hub spacing. Santa Cruz doesn’t publish their chain line spec, but their support told me it’s 55mm for Shimano and 52mm for SRAM. Huh? I’m planning to run RaceFace Turbine cranks (1x 30T) with a Garbaruk 10-52 cassette (microspline) and Shimano XT chain & derailleur. I’m going to try a 52mm chain line using RF’s standard Shimano chainring. They also make a “wide” chain ring for Shimano. Hopefully it all works happily together! There’s a great article about the evolution (and controversy) around MTB chainlines on Radavist if you wanna deep dive into the hidden side of chain lines. Excellent read for bike nerds 🤓
Hello i'm planning to upgrade my Deore M6100 cranks to XT's, been wondering if i should get the M8100 or M8120. I have 52mm chainline btw, Thanks so much
Pedals- what kind of pedals is that? Looks like oneup but without the berrings.
Thanks for the video by the way, great knowledge, great explnations👌🙌
And as longer ur chain stays,less effect from a "bad" chain line;) and : yes i like stable bikes😂
Good Video
Make another on BB30a - 73mm shell
I have Cannondale slate
Going to put Shimano 24mm XT Crankset
How to make bikes fat like cows. Makes me appreciate my 125mm QR rear axle and LOW Q FACTOR 113mm bottom bracket so much! And GREAT cornering clearance. Be jealous! Most will never experience it today.
Thanks for the video. I just recently went from 2x11 to 1X10 so I could have used this video then. What's more in was on a Cannondale Scalpel-Si which happens to be Ai (not artificial intelligence). Luckily I was able to find an Ai offset set of cranks (although) they were expensive. I found out the hard way that Cannondale's proprietary approach makes it difficult (and expensive) to change what comes stock. At any rate, I have really been enjoying the microshift 10 speed while dropping one of the chainrings. I have lost some gears but not many (and not the ones I need for climbing). At any rate, at the outset a lot of this seems somewhat complex, but once you understand the lingo, it's really not so bad. I called numerous vendors trying to get answers (including cannondale). In the end, I just had to try a few different things until I found the solution.
Aloha! I’m thinking of putting a SRAM Eagle GX group set on my Surly Wednesday Fat Bike that I’m building out with 27.5 x 4” Rims/Tires with a 100mm threaded bottom bracket. Should I go with the original group set or boost…?
So with the 7100 crankset your not dropping the chain off when in the largest cog and back-pedaling? Cus thats what ive been dealing with got the 7120 crankset but my frame says max chaineline is 55mm so idk maybe thinkin of getting 7100cranks
@TheBikeSauce , could you maybe direct me to a 3rd party chainring manufacturer that makes an offset chainring that would get me the 55mm chainline on M7100 cranks? I did not realise that the bike I built up needs to run the wider chainline when I bought my crankset, really dont want to have to buy another crankset to overcome this problem
Practically speaking whatever it is FCL you always consider frame BB shell width. You may encounter problems with long crank spindle if your BB FRAME SHELL is around 83mm only.
I'm 6'3" with a relatively wide stance, so i got myself an Shimano superboost crank for my singlespeed because of the higher q-factor.
Combined it with the stein 104bcd to Directmount adapter (aliexpress) to move the chainline in again by 3mm, with a my 6hole cog in a cog carrier on the most outer position of the freehub of an 135mm hub i was able to make it work.
I have a Giant XTC1 ('26). I had a tapered BB. 3x9 But now going to a 1x10/11.
My BB is 86mm. I believe I'm in a limbo. I don't know if I will need or not need a 3mm boost crank.
Maybe you are the expert you can tell me
😁
Nice job as usual! Your breakdowns are great...how about a rim/spoke length/hub flange measurement video?
I like it. That’s a bigger project. I may do an asymmetric rim explainer first
Does SRAM’s 3mm offset with chainrings mean it’s offset 3mm away from the bike, or toward the bike?
What size of bottom bracket spacers do I need if I want to replace the GRX crankset on my gravel bike with an XT crankset? (I want to use a chainring even smaller than the Wolftooth 36-tooth chaining for certain bikepacking routes with monstrous elevation gain.)
Can I use a the non-drive side GRX crank arm with drive-side XT crank arm and chain ring? (I want to keep using the power meter on the my old non-drive side GRX crank arm.)
Hope you can shed light on this. Thanks. Keep up the content.
I made the boost crank mistake while building my Trek Stache. Bought a non boost afterwards and it was ten times better without the boost. Never been able to use on any of my builds.
Very clear and concise, thanks. I am building an "adventure touring" bike from the frame up. I am going to use a 2X (24-34) in this build and I want it to accept 2.6" wide 29" tires. The chain stays are flared for a plus size tire, they are totally tubular, no solid piece on the drive side like the Honzo. I am thinking boost crank and hubs would be wise. Do you agree?
I am kinda sick of these standards. So many shite floating around. I understand that good engineers are working in automotive industry, but this is insane.
Thank you! I have a nonboost setup . I converted years ago to 1x11. Now I have new rims ( nonboost) , and the shimano hyperglide xtr setup. Didn't realize the hg+ is proprietary. So it doesn't work with my absolute black oval chainring. It is a 6mm offset. There the problem, there aren't any . All hg+ chainrings on the market are 3mm offset!? I have racefsce cinch cranks f.y.i. There is a spacer on the drive side spindle of 5mm. Any thoughts?
Damn. I wanted to try 165mm cranks and got the Slx boost crankset thinking this was correct for my rear boost spacing (148mm). Sure enough this will increase my front chainline from 52 to 55mm. I wonder if this change is enough to mess up shifting
What happens if you have a superboost crankset but boost hub? Or mtb bb but 142 spacing & everything else for a gravel bike.
Yes. You want them the chain lines are better for the wider tires and gear ranges.
Now if you are old school and run a bike with QR wheels and say SLX 2x10 no, there is no need to complicate your life. I’ll say boost fork spacing is worth it
Bike components companies should sell spindel and BB or just BB and have it as 3 piece like BMX cranks.
It would just get rid of all this spacing hassle. You just buy the right length spindle and send it🤘
An average road q factor is like 150. An average mtb q factor is like 170. And you kept suggesting the crank vendors were trying not to increase q factor. But what if you want to increase q factor. Washers can increase q factor maybe 2 mm. Extenders increase q factor by 20 each or 40 and thats huge. Or you can wear speedplay and fall on your ass if you try to walk - not so good for cx. Can you extend q factor like 10 mm some other way like w cranks? 5:29
For xc this boost thingy is just gimmick at this point.
27.5 and 26 doesn't need boost. Only the 29er.
You want more durable wheels, use better material.
Why haven't bicycle tires been developed that can at a very minimum resist punctures from goat heads.
¿ I surmise that the Reason could be, that all the sales profits from flat fixing products and troublesome tubeless products would greatly reduced?
Thanks for a great video. Simpler and easier than the one from Park Tool in my opinion. I use 6 mm offset chainring (SRAM GX drivetrain) on my FS bike with boost due to a former wheelset. As I more often use the bigger cogs when I ride, this actually seems like a better chainline ("eye-wise"). I'm building a wheelset for my HT (Shimano drivetrain) with non-boost hubs and have a crankset with 55 mm FCL. Been looking for a Shimano compatible chainring, but the ones I've found are as expensive as a new 52 mm FLC crank...
For my downhill bike GT FURY PRO 2018 with 12x150 hub with 7 speed cassette, do i need a boost crank or not?
SRAM offers a wide dub crankset for 55mm chainline
I got superboost or what ever it's called on my Pivot Switchblade, and to me it's a hunk of junk. Especially given the pressfit BB solution which is an achilles heel in my opinion. I tried mounting an eThirteen bashguard/chainguard on it, and no matter the configuration of spacers I used, I either ended up rubbing chain against chainguard, or even chain against the bashguard itself. I ended up just removing the chainguard and run just the bashguard as a compromize to live without the rubbing.
If it was up to me I'd chose threaded BB every single time.
I'm just saying. I never ever broke a cranksystem in my entire life time. And I am 50 years old by now. I tried Shimano and SRAM, and Pro. Those three,...never ever broke. And overall the same happiness using them. It just depends on XT Shimano use and comparing that specific formula, with SRAM, hands out a completely unarranged picture, wince I do not think they can be compared, they each need different riding styles. And in the same styles, they surely perform differently. Depending on how I want a ride to be ridden or need it to be ridden. You adapt the route also to your system...try make it perform, on the areas, it is made for, a sane question to ask yourself. This means that you are actually needing to compare all these systems, per person using it. Or any of these investigative videos render kind of useless. :D
Boost and super boost were brought to the bike industry to make bikes uncompatible between frames, models and brands so you have to spend more money. Prior to the 148mm rear and 110mm front it used to be 142mm rear and 100mm front l, and for over a decade, we were able to swap parts from frame to frame wihout any issues. Now a days, its a different story. Most riders had to migrate to the “boost” trend to be able to follow up. Bike industry is a scam. Motorbikes are cheaper!
You're darn close... I prefer money scheme, but yes, marketing depts are doing their jobs making us have to shell out more $$$.
Ummm I know it sounds weird but from a design perspective 142 was not actually any wider than 135
Tell us about your day job. How does it help you think about bicycles? I wish the manufacturers would publish these compatibilities or of there were universal geometry numbers on these e.g. effective chain line front and rear.
It make sense with more gears for wider hub and not for hub that don’t need more gears such as down hill bike. Unless they need more gears to climb before going down.
I have a super weird bottom bracket that I can’t find the tool to remove it. It’s coming off a mongoose tomac mtb 1987. I found a tool that could work if I file it but I’m really trying to use the proper tool. Anyone can help?
Hello Please make video sram TType PF Bb and Crank installation. Thanks
Great explanation with better drawings to help us understand science behind it. If for MTB is a mess for Gravel is even worse. I think.
For example the Lauf Seigla has a BSA 73 bottom bracket where you can installa a wide Sram XPLR but also play with MTB cranckset with the right length if you wanna try any other MTB brand instead, which is my preference to have choices instead being trapped with Sram/Lauf setup
How about we just go back to cartridge bottom brackets? They always had different size spindles to accommodate this issue.
wait what, parts of this video seem wrong... 49mm is non boost chainline, 52mm is boost chainline, 55mm is the new boost chainline(due to sram transmission)(it also happens to be the close to the super boost chainline)
Who's your barber? You always have a fresh fade
😄🙏 local barber’s home studio in Anaheim
I have boost cranks on my 135mm hub single speed dirt jumer its that bad?
Yep definitely the best explanation out there. Thankyou!!
Great video, you always have so much helpful information. What is your day job?
So is the SLX crankset you showed actually non boost spacing? I’m asking because I’ve been looking for a set of standard spaced cranks to go on my girls rockhopper XS. She needs 165mm arms so it’s been a bit of a challenge to find a quality Shimano set to convert to 1x. I know you used deore on your girls rockhopper but that set only goes down to 170mm. Any suggestions?
The one I’m running is non boost, yes. As for shorter cranks, you might have to go 3rd party. Dixna La cranks are hollow tech compatible and come in a bunch of sizes
whose idea it was to call this "boost"? what exactly is boosted? "wide" is not edgy enough?
I want to upgrade from slx crank to xo1 3mm chain boost
Should I look for a boost crank?
Any Question: How much do you earn/get from your YT channel? 😎
Ofc you do! You need everything you are told, so buy this and when you are on your way, get your smart watch finally and replace your one year old iPhone!
MTB - how to make a bike more complicated than is needed.
More bike hype to sucker gullible riders into parting with thier $$$
Too many 148mm boost bikes leave the shop floor spec'd with incorrect 1x12 chain line, which in my case caused the frustrating chain drop from the 51T sprocket on techie climbs when back pedalling. Just changed the M7120 to M7100 to correct this problem CL 55mm to 52mm. It's easy to test if this works by removing the drive side 3mm spacer and adding it to the spindle on the LH side. Sure the cranks are now offset, but it's a cheap way to test chain line before buying a new crankset.
Damn i bought a groupset slx/xt take off and its 7120 cranks and literally dropping chaine when back pedaling in gear 9,10,11,12 smh i was reading online and alot of people saying its normal on 1x12 drivetrains... but some saying its a chainline issuse. So what your saying is now that u have the 7100cranks you can back pedal on the biggest coggs??
Yes... well almost. Gears 10, 11 & 12 always dropped on the 7120's. Now it's good on 10 & 11, but will drop from 12 after a 180 degree back pedal. Heaps better, but not perfect. Its worth doing the math. Boost 148mm axle = 74mm from centre line out to the end of the axle. Chainring on 52mm chainline is then straight on the cog 22 mm inboard from the end of axle. For most bikes with 52mm CL that's about between cog #5 and 6. Still biased to the small cogs, hence the issue I still have with cog #12. Some bikes have conflicts with CL and chainring size, rings hitting the rear stays. With a 30t chainring I could squeeze out a 50.5mm chainline, but Shimano cranks are centre fixed and the standard offset increments from a third party chainring supplier is 3mm.@@soilBGuRu420
@@antc5010 Do you have Shimano chain and Shimano cassette ?
Yes. All drivetrain components are Shimano and sold as compatible.@@stefanocspt6732
All Shimano drive train. @@stefanocspt6732
Man, I never built a bike but sure don't plan to anytime soon.
Learned a ton in this video. Thank you for making this video very informative and easy to understand.
Aahh Why should I worry about all of that???? 😅 I just want to enjoy the riding and outdoor scenery. Get away from it all sort of speak. Spare me all this gebarich😂
Haha we ask ourselves the same everyday. Just get a complete bike from a big brand and don’t ask any questions if you just want to ride.
What does superboost actually a benefit?
Giving SRAM to much credit, they also have different sized cranks. DUB Superboost 157, DUB boost WIDE 55mm chain line And just regular DUB boost.
Haha, touché
When you do your Ritchey Outback build could you talk about your assessment of its frame geometry, what sort of riding you intend to do on it and how that effects the choice of components, wheels, tyres etc. With my RO build I want to select what suits the bike rather then throwing my favourite components on it.
100%!
So, my ibis Mojo 3 has boost spacing for the rear hub with sram gx drive train. Would I benefit from going with Boost cranks? This stuff is confusing
Probably don’t need em
I'm new to mtb and currently building my own dream bike. With this video, it's clear that I have to settle for a non-boost crankset for my boost frame with a shimano slx boost hub rear. Thank you so much for this great explanation!
what's up with Shimano boost being 55mm?