Japanese Maple Hardwood Cuttings: NEW method WITH RESULTS!!! Propagating clones and free trees!
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2025
- Who doesn't love Japanese Maple trees!? I think they make such amazing bonsai trees - definitely my favorites!
Who doesn't love FREE Japanese Maple trees!? I know you do!!
The first video I posted was about propagating Japanese maples from hardwood cuttings. Turns out it was a total disaster and all the cuttings died. So since then I've tried to do better, learn more and approach this project with better materials and methods. And it worked!! Hardwood cuttings were taken in November 2021 after all the leaves had fallen off. I prepared a tote - yes i drilled drainage holes - with an inert, inorganic mix of perlite, vermiculite, and some succulent soil. This time I used a rooting gel which I really liked, and stuck about 100 cuttings. I ignored them all winter for the most part, and left them outside under the deck. In the spring i started to leave the lid off during the day, and once summer came around, they were open all day long with daily watering. Most cuttings died still, but of the ones that rooted, they were very vibrant, healthy, with a secondary flush of leaves, and well rooted. I have some fine-tuning ideas for this coming season, including wax or paste on the top of cuttings to keep them from drying out, and using cuttings slightly larger thickness than that of a pencil, since those were the ones that did the best for me this year.
This set up worked for me, and here's the proof. Im going to keep using this propagation tub for cuttings, and hope to grow many many more FREE Japanese Maples in the coming years, and I hope you do too!
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I always use straight spagnum moss for seeds, cuttings and air layering.
Also, repot in spagnum if the tree is sick to revive.
That's the "Peter Chan" method! Good medicine for bonsai!
Ha! You built your bench using my plans 😁
Yes sir I sure did!! I really appreciate you putting that out there for myself and others to use. I’m not a great builder, and it’s a tad wonky, but the design is superb!!! Thank you!!
@kitakubonsai Glad it worked out for you. Yes, I also ended up adding a couple of diagonal support struts on the center legs (front to back) and on the back legs diagonally from top right to center low. I also replaced the shelf planks with composite planks after the original planks rotted through (after 11 years)...
@@jeremynorbury great ideas! I’m also think composite in the future. These were reclaimed planks but I’m still quite happy with it. I’m so glad you saw your designs being used, that’s gotta feel really good!
I get 1oo% success with lace leaf & shishigashira cuttings by using sphagnum moss & squeezing out the excess water then planting my cuttungs in a tub with the cuttings laying horizontal or vertical then poppn the lid back on.Cuttings usually take 10 - 12 days to form roots!! Cheers!!!
Wow that’s great!!!
🎉😢❤😢😂😢😂😢
Where do you store it and after roots form, what's your aftercare routine?
Congratulations on your success. Its so exciting when the cuttings develop roots and you have created new trees.
Thanks Peter!! Very exciting indeed! What kind of projects are you into lately?
I a trying air layers on a swamp cypress, English elm and a Nothofagus. Time will tell! Also lots of cuttings taken and Japanese Maple seeds sown. So far they haven't grown much but I have hope.
Yay new bonsai channel
Hey we're 4 years old! Where've you been???? lol! glad to have you on board!!
At least for indoor plant cuttings, roots only form at the nodes. So cuts are made just below a node, and the leaves pulled off on the lower nodes and next ones up. I found it interesting that you seemed to make your cuts anywhere on the stems. Are hardwood cuttings different?
you're totally right about nodes. and hardwood cuttings are the same way for the most part. They develop a prominent callus tissue at the cut site and roots can emerge from there too. i try to trim my cuttings so that there's about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the bottom node. Other folks might have a different method, but this seems to work well for me. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing this video! I love how you look so happy with the outcome! I have tried many cuttings from an Acer pamatum dissectum from my previous property. Of hundreds I only had one that strike roots. I know the joy of seeing roots. 😄
Thanks Tim!! Dissectum varieties are notoriously difficult to root, there always grafted for nursery stock. I do have an upcoming project to see if I can increase the success rate though. Stay tuned, I’ll have that video up in a few weeks!
You can try a mix of 10 to 1 Water/Peroxide to avoid algae, fungus or root decay (I never spray or water without it). 😉
Thanks for the tip!!!
Hi… so just to be clear, and so that I completely understand, if I am watering my plants, and I used 1000ml of water, I then need to add 100ml of either bleach/peroxide…
Seems an awful lot to add to me ..? These types of chemicals are extremely active at a far less lower dosage
That's really cool though. If you just got one for crying out loud. I'd call that a success. It's just a crime to not be able to try everything to make new maple trees. 😁👍
I know right??? And wait till you see this years’ haul! Bigger and better!
hi. nice video. in the winter with tub outside , did you water at all? did u open lid during warm days to allow fresh air in?
Thanks for asking. No, I don’t water them with a hose or anything. I have lots of holes drilled in the top and the bottom for drainage, so that when it rains, that’s the water they get. When it snows or freezes, they will get the water from the snow when it thaws.Thats all. There’s enough holes to circulate fresh air, but I do check if the temperatures are above about 50°F if mold is growing. If so, I’ll spray them with some organic neem oil but that’s all, come spring time. I’ll open the top of the containers to let the cuttings get more Daylight and warmth and cover them up at night time if the temperature drops down below freezing. In my location, they will root very nicely and by August be ready to plant in their own container.
@KitakuBonsai thank u for the info.
You look so happy that it succeeded when you are potting them up :) A couple questions, do you have to deal with a cold winter? If so, how do you plan on wintering them over? And, did you put drainage holes in your container and have a lid on the whole time? As you can probably tell by my questions, I plan to walk around the neighborhood this fall and gather seeds, and would like to try and grow maples next year. I've had super good luck with propagating hydrangeas this summer, I'm just worried on how I am going to overwinter them along with my new maples. Thanks for any input.
Thanks Diane! first - drainage holes- yes lots of them. I kept the lid on from the time i stuck the cuttings, until about April of this year so they could start getting sun. I used a drill to bore about 30 holes in the bottom. In in central PA so we definitely get cold winters. These cuttings will most likely spend the winter in my unheated garage. if you don't have a garage, you could use an inexpensive "indoor greenhouse" and place it outside. They need protection from harsh winds that can dry them out, but they still need that period of winter dormancy. great job with your hydrangeas!!
@@KitakuBonsai Thanks!!! I'm in SE Michigan so we get the same winters. I don't think I can go digging up seedlings in the neighbor's yards, lol, but I can collect seeds and see how that works out next year. Again, thank you!
Diane Pahl... Just thought I'd chime in about your newly rooted Hydrangeas. I live in Buffalo, NY, zone 6b, and I've been propagating several different types of Hydrangea during the last 4 summers. I just wanted to mention that I've always planted my "newly rooted" Hydrangea plants directly into the ground from my propagation tray. As long as I can get them in the ground by 1st week in September, they have quite a few weeks to acclimate before winter arrives, and they "over winter" just fine out in the garden. Snow actually helps to protect them, and as long as they are hardy to your zone, you'll see them again in the spring. Hope that's helpful! Also, very best time to collect Jap Map seeds is on Halloween. (Easy date to remember!) Pop them in a baggie with a few light sprinkles of water in the bag, and place them in the fridge with the seeds spread out (to keep baggie flat). Once a month, open the baggie to allow for some air flow. Check the baggie for moisture and add a couple drops of fresh water if necessary. (yes, just a few droplets!) Put it back in the fridge, flipping the baggie over 'til the next month. All of this just keeps a bit of circulation in the bag, and helps you remember they're in there. By February or March, you'll notice some seeds have germinated on their own. An off-white root will begin to protrude from each seed. When this happens, take them from the fridge to the counter, leaving them there for about a week. More will produce roots. After a week, plant them in your planting tray (even those that haven't germinated) and wait for the sprouts to appear. Have patience. Sprouting can take another 3 weeks. Sorry to "butt in" here. This is just top of mind right now! Good luck!
@@jlnriddick Thanks for the info! I'm in 6a, in a suburb outside of Detroit. I have about 10 lace cap hydrangeas (unknown variety) that are about 6-7 inches tall that are in soil in small pots that are doing very well. I really didn't think this through, lol, because I really have no place to plant them, due to the size they may get. I'd like to overwinter them in pots so perhaps I could give them away next spring to folks who would want them. I'm thinking of either getting plastic totes, drill the holes, etc., and see if they make it or build a small cold frame - just so I can keep them in pots, you know? Easier to just hand them off, then, I'm thinking. Of course, I could dig up a couple of those darn fountain grasses I planted years ago, but if you've ever dug those up, you know what a pain that is, argh. This is a pure case of If You Give A Mouse A Cookie, LOL. As for the Japanese Maple seeds, I've scouted out a few trees in the neighborhood that I might be able to scarf some seeds - so thanks for the advice! All the the maples I've seen in the "hood, are of the red variety, which I don't have, but I've heard they can be a tad harder to germinate. Have you found this to be true?
@@DianePahl Re the Hydrangeas... I think the only thing I can offer is that a plant's roots are more likely to freeze in a pot than in the ground. Sounds surprising, but even in our cold and snowy environments, the ground is far more protected (and warmer) than the soil in a pot. I'm thinking a tote with a lid and airholes might be the best idea. Place them (pots and all) in the tote and just make sure they aren't in the sun and always have enough moisture. The "air holes" will provide some moisture, but check on them when you can. That's my two cents! Re Jap Maples... I've only ever germinated seeds from my own Bloodgood trees, so I have no other experience. The steps I mentioned (with the baggies) have worked each year, and I typically have 60-70 viable sprouts once they reach the "tray stage'. You do have to be patient, but the time frames I gave you are realistic in my experience. It feels like it takes forever, but I'm sure you'll be successful!
I wouldn't care about failures with a swimming pool like that! Even better with a tall Gin & Tonic 😁 I keep trying different methods so I'm glad you subscribed to me so i could find you. I'm definitely on the vermiculite road of experimentation. I know that frustration with the false start!! 10% is better than 0%. I have never had a success with red maples in any form of propagation - including air-layers. I am still waiting to see how sphagnum works with the vermiculite on this last set of cuttings. Is that just a standard plastic storage container with a full lid (no ventilation holes). When you took the hardwood cuttings I presume leaves had all dropped and you just selected buds you wanted for the first flush? Sorry for all my questions its just really interesting. What are your winter temp lows like?
Sorry just saw a few answers below. Did the lid have any holes and did you water at all between Nov - Apr?
Yes I put air holes in the lid, enough for circulation and so that rain/snow melt could drip without caving it it.
I didn’t actively water the cuttings until it started getting warm-hot, just let Mother Nature do that. This coming fall, I’m going to use a wound paste on the tops of each coating in hopes of improving the success rate and I’ll do some videos on that
@@KitakuBonsai I used wound paste on the top of mine this time for the same reason. We shall see if that helps? If the lid is on...how does mother nature do anything if Im storing them in the greenhouse over winter?
@@XaviersBonsaiRetreat just make sure they don’t dry out completely if they can’t get rain. They don’t require much water early on since they won’t have roots. I like this “overwinter” approach because it seems to be the most low-maintenance and reliable method I’ve tried so far.
Have you tried using sand (soft/play) as your rooting medium it's normally very successful with cuttings.
I would not use bleach a better option would be to freeze the growing medium as the bleach will get absorbed into the vermiculite and then you on a hiding to nothing.
But keep it up, I have the same failures and successes with various varieties of trees. When you start winning, rince and repeat... good luck with the next batch.
Thank you good sir! I haven’t used sand yet, but I’m sure to in the coming years. Just like you,I’m just trying my best to find a way that works, and to carry on a craft I love. Thanks for the insight!
How long does it take before repotting?
For these type of cuttings, I could probably wait 2 more years before potting into a bigger nursery pot. If I had the land, I’d consider putting them in the ground to thicken up faster and be ready for bonsai development in maybe 5 years. My preference for JM bonsai is 1 inch trunk base or larger so these on have a way to go to that point.
Great that you had success! You did not tell us how you did it, only the mix and hormone.
I took those cuttings in the fall, after the leaves had dropped off. Once they were treated and stuck in the mix, I just left them alone all winter. They started to leaf out in spring, some of them died, but obviously some of them made it through! What else would you like to know?
Have you done any trimming of the roots to get radial root patterns? How early could that be done?
Hey Lou! Short answer is no, I haven’t done anything to encourage radial roots. But I really think that very early on, the cuttings could be attached to a plate or other flat surface under the substrate in order to accomplish that. I’m glad you asked, that’s my next big project to figure out.
Thank you! Very informative! A couple of questions if I may. What zone do you live in? If zone 5 or colder, won't they freeze leaving them outside vs. the garage. Also, is August a good time to transfer them to individual pots? Regards!
Thanks! We’re a zone 6b so it’s not too terribly cold for an extended period of time. They certainly would freeze outside, and the ingrates garage will stay at about 35F all winter. As for repotting in August - I’ve read that’s it should be ok, especially since they’ve been growing roots all spring and summer, plus I wanted to make another video to share!!😎
Kitaku Bonsai... Great job with your hardwood cuttings! Those roots were amazing! Do you have another video that describes where on the branch you took your cuttings from? I'm familiar with rooting cuttings from perennials (typically using new growth with several nodes), but I'm not familiar with how/where to cut hardwood cuttings at all. Also, I think you said you originally stuck your hardwood cuttings in Nov./Dec. of 2021. Where did you put your tote at that point (inside, outside, under a tree?), and how often did you need to check it for moisture. Drain holes in the bottom, and several air holes in the lid, right? Thanks for the video, and Congrats for all those beautiful roots!
Thanks so much!! Unfortunately I don’t have any video from the start of the project but I will this time around. I took cuttings from various parts of the mother trees, ranging from .5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 “pencil thickness”. The thicker ones worked better for me 🤷♀️.
After everything was prepped, I left the tote outside under our deck. Lid on, many drainage holes. We didn’t get much snow last year but a fair amount of rain. I would have watered them a little bit if it went too long between showers. Glad you liked it! Thanks!
@@KitakuBonsai Gotcha! Great job!
How often did u water & did u put drainage holes in the bottom of the tote?
I drilled a bunch of drain holes in the bottom and watered only every few days in the spring and every day once it started getting hot.
I planted some and they grew some shoots about 2-4 inch. So I should not get excited I guess.
yes you should be excited! but its going to be a few more months before you can tell if they've been truly successful. patience my friend!
Dear Kitaku Bonsai, I apologize for hijacking some of these threads. I started out just wanting to add a few thoughts/ideas, but it looks like I got carried away. It must appear rude, but that wasn't my intention. Again, I apologize.
No problem at all. Texting and commenting don’t always convey the feeling behind the words. I’m just glad you’ve found something of value in our videos!!
Did you cover with plastic, grey top or what?
Thanks for asking. I used the grey lid top that came with the bin. I drilled about 20 holes in the top for circulation of rain/snow and air.
Damn, I was looking for the actual first stage of propagation, cutting the cuttings
I'll have another vid coming in about 2 months that will go in much more depth about the process, and I suppose i could do one in the fall to show to beginning/cutting them if you'd be interested.
What time of year did you remove the lid? Was it a clear lid?
It was not a clear lid, just the same grey color as the base, with holes drilled in it. I removed it about this time of the year, after we were past sub-freezing temps overnight. I have about 150 more JM cuttings for this year. Some have obviously died or won’t make it, but many look good!
👋👍
why thank you!
I get NO root every time 😂😂
Oh no! There’s got to be a way to improve that for you. What set up are you using?
Meh, you dont need all that i have 100% success on Hardwood cuttings. Stick, dirt, spagnum, water. But.... ill let you in on a secret... itll change the way you propagate once you try it... springtails. Start a bin of soil, add water and let it get humid and get fungus. Add springtails. Let them do their thing, its your new pet, outdoor, indoor, micro composting little critters are best at what they do. So, you go to plant cuttings. Take some of your springtail dirt and mix with your cutting dirt. Thats all. Why it makes a difference? Because fungus and mold are the number 1 killer's of cuttings. Springtails eat fungus and molds meaning they are hard at work cleaning your cuttings and the dirt they are planted in which ideally is...perfect for fungus and mold. Because they eat the fungus and mold the cutting stays healthy longer giving it time to develop the callus and roots. So they increase your chances of success
Well that’s certainly one way to do it! Thanks for checking in!