Really good video - I learnt a lot. Will try your methods as your detailed tips like scratching the bark at the base etc is very helpful. It's Autumn in the UK so will give it a go now. thanks again - Peter
Happy to hear it was helpful - the superficial damage hopefully will create a small callus area and roots will pop from this tissue. Internodes can also provide a chance for roots to develop, so I try to do a combo of both methods when I take cuttings. Timing & aftercare is super important for high strike chances I'm learning; best of luck!
These didn't have a great strike rate because the medium was too wet - if you check out this video (ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.html), you'll see we now go with a much lighter medium (~90% perlite, 10% compost), where we have much more success. Thanks for the kind words!
@robogoofers9131 It's best to save root work for when the trees are dormant. Spring just before the buds break is best in my experience if you protect them well over the winter. Second best is late fall when the leaves drop, but I like to only do this if I know they have lots of roots to carry them through the winter.
@@happymaplenursery So these spring cuttings will be ready the following spring? What signs do you look for to see whether they took or not? if some seem dead, do you remove them or leave them?
@robogoofers9131 root work in spring is probably the safest time, you'll see the buds starting to swell, and this is a good time to do root work If you're unsure if a cutting has made it, you can make a small scratch on the bark, if the cambium is green and "wet" looking, it's still alive Anything obviously dead is sent to the compost pile at this time!
@jameswalker3416 ya, they can tricky with lots of variables impacting success We have a pretty low-tech method using a propagation box that is working very well in our hands that you might be interested in: ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.htmlsi=yloHGif4e2mCHc0K
Hey, it'll depend on your zone ultimately, but we're finding late winter or early spring is best (~April to May for us in Canadian zone 5b or about ~US zone 5a/4b).
Hi, Yes, I know it can be frustrating to see the beginning of a process, but never see the end result! As I mentioned in the beginning, this is how we prepare all our cuttings - you can see the results (with a slightly updated approach using a simple container) of our prep here: ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.html
Hey, Thanks for the feedback - we're always trying to invest and improve our recording quality in these early days. Viewing on a PC may help you more easily see what we're doing. Also, I can maybe help you if you have a questions about the techniques we're using here.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Really good video - I learnt a lot. Will try your methods as your detailed tips like scratching the bark at the base etc is very helpful. It's Autumn in the UK so will give it a go now. thanks again - Peter
Happy to hear it was helpful - the superficial damage hopefully will create a small callus area and roots will pop from this tissue. Internodes can also provide a chance for roots to develop, so I try to do a combo of both methods when I take cuttings.
Timing & aftercare is super important for high strike chances I'm learning; best of luck!
Great tutorial!
Thank you! We appreciate the kind words
Really well done video, thanks! Curious as to how many of those that you have there do you think will root.
These didn't have a great strike rate because the medium was too wet - if you check out this video (ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.html), you'll see we now go with a much lighter medium (~90% perlite, 10% compost), where we have much more success.
Thanks for the kind words!
How long does it take for the spring cuttings you show to root? and how long before you can move them into larger individual pots?
@robogoofers9131 It's best to save root work for when the trees are dormant. Spring just before the buds break is best in my experience if you protect them well over the winter.
Second best is late fall when the leaves drop, but I like to only do this if I know they have lots of roots to carry them through the winter.
@@happymaplenursery So these spring cuttings will be ready the following spring? What signs do you look for to see whether they took or not? if some seem dead, do you remove them or leave them?
@robogoofers9131 root work in spring is probably the safest time, you'll see the buds starting to swell, and this is a good time to do root work
If you're unsure if a cutting has made it, you can make a small scratch on the bark, if the cambium is green and "wet" looking, it's still alive
Anything obviously dead is sent to the compost pile at this time!
I've struggled with japanese maple cuttings.
@jameswalker3416 ya, they can tricky with lots of variables impacting success
We have a pretty low-tech method using a propagation box that is working very well in our hands that you might be interested in:
ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.htmlsi=yloHGif4e2mCHc0K
What time of year was this done? I would assume spring, but I've also heard about hardwood cuttings in the winter season
Hey, it'll depend on your zone ultimately, but we're finding late winter or early spring is best (~April to May for us in Canadian zone 5b or about ~US zone 5a/4b).
And the results? We never seen the results…
Hi,
Yes, I know it can be frustrating to see the beginning of a process, but never see the end result!
As I mentioned in the beginning, this is how we prepare all our cuttings - you can see the results (with a slightly updated approach using a simple container) of our prep here: ruclips.net/video/9SnksPQ1YgY/видео.html
Camara to far away
Hey,
Thanks for the feedback - we're always trying to invest and improve our recording quality in these early days.
Viewing on a PC may help you more easily see what we're doing. Also, I can maybe help you if you have a questions about the techniques we're using here.