All this info is dead on. I 100% back this up from experience. I’ve had weak cuttings take 2 growing seasons to even root let alone grow. Strong cuttings can sometimes root within a couple months. Great video. First one I’ve seen that lines up with my experience. I’ve done hundreds of cuttings with no difference between scissors and grafting knife and the same goes for using rooting hormone.
Totally agree. It's been a weird correlation over years of doing it, but basically the healthier the mother plant, the faster and better the cuttings. It actually makes more sense to wait to make cuttings and get the mother healthier rather than doing the cuttings and letting them limp along. Either way, unhealthy trees are costing you years of waiting!
This is awesome info! It's super important to take the advice from Peter Chan, "Don't be greedy' with cutting size (referring to thickness). I have several landscape junipers that I have been propagating. The key is a small matchstick thickness, off new growth for best results. I'm currently looking for a Kishu Juniper for my yard for propagation parent plant. Thanks for showing the results and consequences of each type of cutting.
Hi Eric, any chance you plan to make an update video on how these did? Follow ups on older videos are the best. Also, I’m getting ready to make cuttings off the Kishus and Cotoneasters I bought from you a few months back, I’m very excited to see how it goes!
Glad I had come across this, I'm actually dinking around with different pine trees (Spruce, Firs, Juniper, et al). I hadn't realized Juniper had such a miserable incubation period, iirc it's worse than a Japanese maple or Sequoia and if it weren't for this video I'd of wasted a bit of time. Thank you!
Thanks for the great info. I think you solved the problem with my pathetic strick rate with easy-to-root species nobody else has problems with. I bought the encyclopedia through your link. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for this ... I have a mutant branch upon one of my upright blue junipers, the thing is growing in a much different form. I'm generally pretty good with cuttings, though have never attempted juniper.
Blah, blah, blah…😂🤣😂. You don’t talk to much. You don’t repeat unnecessarily. All your sounds and words are appropriate to convey the info. Very helpful and thorough info. I’ve been propagating other plants and I e learned some and h e had my own observations confirmed. Thank you, sir 🙏😊
Excellent video. Used it to get a flat going myself. I do hydroponic gardening as well and love perlite.. using it for cuttings makes a lot of sense to me. We'll see how things come out next year. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. :)
Junipers are very easy to strike , its almost 100% , but one thing I now do for all cuttings , especially spring /summer/early fall ones is to place the flats or growing pots with cuttings in a flat without holes in the bottom , I put about an inch of small ( pea sized ) gravel in the bottom and put cutting container into the gravel filled tray and add water to the top of the gravel . I also drill a few holes around the sides of the tray at the upper gravel layer so the water cannot fill the tray or overflow with rain. Once they strike they will start to put roots out of the bottom and in numbers as they head down to find the water. They clearly don't like stagnant waterlogged pots but they thrive in a moisture rich soil which also has air spaces ( akadama/perlite type). Like your recent mame video , I also keep my mame bonsai in a tray , but with gravel and water. They grew stronger and healthier with no issues about drying out. None look unhealthy ( and moss grows quickly) . Come winter they have to come off the trays due to freezing but resume in spring. I originally saw the idea of container with water in it for cuttings in a Japanese bonsai growers video for maple cuttings , it entirely eliminates watering issues ( even though the soil is constantly wet ) . Great channel .
But without holes in the flat the cuttings are in they will drown when it rains. Sure over flow will run into tray with gravel and holes but the cuttings still drown .
Excellent video, and thank you for properly showing and explaining to all of us. Now I know why my cutting never took root. The last video I saw I'm not gonna say who made it, but the video just seemed like get a cutting, spit on it, then slam it into the soil, bam 2-5 months you got a tree.
Thanks! I live in the desert Southwest, and I think I'm going to try this technique on some Alligator Junipers this fall; beautiful trees, and I'd love to see what I can make of them. Excellent video, excellent advice!
Do note that there is wide variation in success between different juniper species - while J. scopulorum has been used in the nursery industry for a long time, others have not. That may or may not be due to problems with propagation.
Very informative, thank you. I've never had great luck with shimpaku juniper. I have rooted them, but my success rate is around 50% or less and it seems to take forever. I wish they were as easy as Parsonii juniper, lol. I've managed to root up to 9" cuttings of parsonii juniper faster than "perfect" shimpaku cuttings.
Very interesting , 1 year for cuttings wow , patients required then lol. Our weather pattern here in Australia is fluctuating all over the place this spring loads of rain a cooler temperatures than normal so cuttings may fail I feel , I will try the perlite and coco coir mix for a change I usually just use propergating sand for my cuttings with mixed results , thanks for putting your video together on this. Cheers.👍
There is abviously some time passed between the sticking of the cuttings and the release of this video. What is the best time of year to take the cuttings?
The cuttings are taken in fall - here in SF that's Oct-Nov. At the beginning we show the taking and sticking of the new cuttings. At the end of the video, what are shown are 1 year old cuttings that were done at this time last year.
So it’s end of January on the us east coast and the snow has lifted and I noticed there’s a giant bush of junipers on the way to a local metro station. Can I just rock up there and chop off a branch and then turn this into cuttings? Or will there be a chance of finding rooted small branches? Or do I have to wait till spring to do that to see new growth on the plant? These look like big older bushes. I really want to create a little mame landscape with these junipers. If I stick the rootless cuttings into a landscape set up will they root and survive? Or will the soil be inappropriate and therefore they’ll die off?
Absolutely what I needed as I have two junipers I want to take cuttings off. My big question is about the heat mat. I dont have one. Will I still get reasonable results if they are left outside (UK)?
I have done it without, yes. Rooting tends to be much slower. Given the minor expense I would suggest you purchase one. There are options as low as $15 on Amazon, and almost all of them even with a thermostat are under $50. amzn.to/3K2s4Qj
@@Bonsaify So do you have power to your greenhouse? I don't, so i would have to use this indoors. Would that be an issue at cuttting stage - Ive never kept them indoors before?
Ah, yeah, what you want is warm and humid. So it you have a greenhouse, I'd say better there without bottom heat than inside with bottom heat. Since making this video, I've also tried a batch in July under mist in a greenhouse, no bottom heat and gotten good results. (I mist using an electronic leaf, but you can use a propagation timer, or just keep the humidity super high)
@@Bonsaify Thanks for that extra information. I am in the process of sorting out powerr to the greenhouse but that may be awhile coming yet. i really appreciate you taking the time to respond again :)
I usually leave them about 1 year. But you can possibly do it a bit sooner. The problem is that sometimes you'll damage the new roots - and they don't yet have any wood in them. It's a slow species!
I'm assuming from the video and some of the comments, that it wouldn't be possible to use a thicker trunk to propagate a new Juniper. I'm asking that because a juniper big tree was cut on a uncle's condo, and I was wondering if some of the thicker trunks could be used to make bonsai
I soak my juniper cuttings in water for a couple of hours before I plant them. I am not sure if it makes any difference, but it would be interesting to know if anyone else does the same.
Really informative, thank you for sharing your video. You mentioned the medium you used for planting the cuttings, could you please let me have it again so I can try and get something similar here in the UK?
I'm using 80% perlite and 20% coco coir by volume (fluffed coir) and keeping the fresh cuttings on bottom heat or in a greenhouse or both. I would imagine you can find either or them there but if not, peat moss will work rather than coco coir, and you can do rooting in many different media - including sand/peat and fine bonsai soil as well. The medium is not the most critical thing - the health of the parent plants seems to make the most difference.
My experience is that Oct-Nov in Northern hemisphere is ideal. But, you can get them to take at other times, just lower percentages. My experience is in a mild winter climate, so not sure how Dec-Jan would be in a colder climate.
I just want to plant mountain juniper for deer cover. I have access to a lot of it. What’s the biggest plant I could pull out of the ground and trans plant?
Ah, well that depends on the health and conditions of the plant. Generally in fall or early spring juniper collection has a 60-90% success rate. Higher if you're experienced, lower if you don't know how to care for them afterward. (And this is for bonsai use...I have no idea about just transplanting.)
I'm not familiar with that variety - but there is a large variation among different species and varieties in terms of cutting success. E.g. I've tried this with one of our native junipers and had no success...
Is the reason that the cuttings from the old bonsai don't have much vigor because you've taught the plant to grow slowly? And that cutting you took from the vigorous plant doesn't know any better, so it takes off?
It seems so. I didn't believe it until I did a few thousand. But yeah, small cuttings and cuttings from weak or controlled material do not grow as quickly.
We primarily do it (and have best succes) starting in September through November here in San Francisco. Depending on your local climate, I think early fall, before any real cold weather but after the heat of summer has started to subside. As mentioned in the video, there are many factors. Good luck!
@Bonsaify I have a question. I started a propagation pop doing my best to follow what you've done. My question is do I need to worry about frost and freezing temperatures with the cuttings? I started the pot at the beginning of November.
I think if you can supply bottom heat to keep the roots from freezing that would solve it. However a greenhouse might be better. One of the reasons that cutting propagation varies is that in different locations there are different restrictions. I spoke with another grower who did all his cuttings in June with misting and as hot temperatures as possible. I tested that and found that it didn't work as well...
Thanks for the info, will this work in the spring? I have a local source juniper that's being used for ground cover, neighbor has given me the greenlight for taking a few cuttings.
The success rates vary by time of year and many other factors. Try the same technique and see if the timing makes a difference. There are many successful ways to make juniper cuttings. Do however pay attention to the variety as this more than many other factors will determine success or failure.
@@Bonsaify gotcha. I'll do a spring and a fall trial run. It's more for me procuring some "free" bonsai but in case somebody wants one I'll have some just growing for that purpose.
The key here is that you want to keep the foliage in high humidity / moist, but he roots do not need to be soggy. So I often just sprinkle the tops with water, keeping the cuttings in shade (in fall). The bottom heat is among the more important factors. I would say I did a full watering no more than 2x/week. Overhead light sprinkle 1-2 times per day. Keep in mind perlite retains a lot of water and the cuttings are not absorbing much of it from the soil.
You'll want to use the same gauge - if the soil is wet, don't water. I would expect that you'll do well since hot and humid is what makes rooting cuttings easier.
I use Japanese water stones, widely available from woodworking outlets, or sometimes knife shops. I find a 1000/6000 combination stone to be useful, although a 400/1000 stone is also good, depends on how sharp you want your tools. I mostly just touch up scissors and grafting knives with the 1000 side of the stones, I find it's good enough. amzn.to/3DpD4TH
In many cases, the perlite mixture will hold enough water for 4-5 days without watering. You don't want the tops to stay dry - high humidity is good - but you don't want the bottoms to stay sopping wet. When you water, just lightly wet the top of the cuttings with a quick pass of a hose. Then check the soil moisture and water only if it's starting to dry out. In my back yard in fall, even without rain, and in the shade, this can be a week or more. But you'll have to judge based on your local conditions...
The techniques I use here are in November in my area. But, as I mentioned, you can take cuttings through a large portion of the year. We did some in June this year and they have done well!
How often do you water your cuttings ? I am trying some with 100% perlite for chinese juniper, i put them in a container that is in contact with water all the time at the base ( around 1cm dip ) Is that ok ?
Ah. I would not do that actually. I follow the principle of keeping the tops in a high humidity environment, but not under mist. Using bottom heat is very beneficial (top cold, bottom warm, like 75F) and then the watering is really only about 1-2 times per week because the time of year is cooler and lower light intensity. You don't want them to stay too wet as this will cause the stems to rot, and it can also cause the new roots to rot...eg the cuttings will root and then die due to overwatering.
@@Bonsaify ok thanks, I live in south Portugal in the Algarve, it’s quite hot climate here. I will try to put them in a mix a perlite and soil, I currently put them in a big plastic box acting as a greenhouse, will see how it turns out.
This is fantastic! I don't have access to electricity outdoors at the moment so a heat mat is not available. I could however use one indoors. What would be my best option? Indoor propagation with a heat map or outdoors with no mat? I do have a small plastic greenhouse which they could live in
Extension cord? Hmm. I've done them in a greenhouse without a heat mat and had good success, but the humidity is high. Inside your house would be drier than what is ideal. I would say outside without the mat, but I guess it depends on the outside temperature also. Inside a small greenhouse would be good as long as there isn't too much direct light - e.g. under the bench might work.
Where do you live? You should be able to have unrooted cut materials sent from other countries, this would be better than seed still. The soil is normally the cause of import restrictions.
The new roots have a habit of just breaking off at the stem when you repot too quickly. Waiting a year (or perhaps 9 months at least) allows them to be woody enough to avoid damaging them. But try it sooner and see if you have success!
"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things over and over and over again for the truth to sink in, to kind of catapult the propaganda." 😂 They misunderestimated me.👀
It's basically a year before it's safe to transplant. They will make roots before that (like 4-6 weeks) but the new roots are very tender, so transplanting it quite bad for them at that stage. By the 1-year mark you should see top growth looking healthy, and there will be plenty of roots to keep it that way.
In an earlier post he replied: "I'm using 80% perlite and 20% coco coir by volume (fluffed coir) and keeping the fresh cuttings on bottom heat or in a greenhouse or both. I would imagine you can find either or them there but if not, peat moss will work rather than coco coir, and you can do rooting in many different media - including sand/peat and fine bonsai soil as well. The medium is not the most critical thing - the health of the parent plants seems to make the most difference."
THIS is what I’ve been wanting a video on (from any channel!) for months. Much thanks
All this info is dead on. I 100% back this up from experience. I’ve had weak cuttings take 2 growing seasons to even root let alone grow. Strong cuttings can sometimes root within a couple months. Great video. First one I’ve seen that lines up with my experience. I’ve done hundreds of cuttings with no difference between scissors and grafting knife and the same goes for using rooting hormone.
That being said I do use rooting powder/paste. I’ve found the difference is minimal but it sure doesn’t hurt to use hormone.
Totally agree. It's been a weird correlation over years of doing it, but basically the healthier the mother plant, the faster and better the cuttings. It actually makes more sense to wait to make cuttings and get the mother healthier rather than doing the cuttings and letting them limp along. Either way, unhealthy trees are costing you years of waiting!
What time of the year do you propagate Junipers?
This is awesome info! It's super important to take the advice from Peter Chan, "Don't be greedy' with cutting size (referring to thickness). I have several landscape junipers that I have been propagating. The key is a small matchstick thickness, off new growth for best results. I'm currently looking for a Kishu Juniper for my yard for propagation parent plant. Thanks for showing the results and consequences of each type of cutting.
I've read " don't be greedy" in Peter Chan's voice. Damn..
Hi Eric, any chance you plan to make an update video on how these did? Follow ups on older videos are the best.
Also, I’m getting ready to make cuttings off the Kishus and Cotoneasters I bought from you a few months back, I’m very excited to see how it goes!
Glad I had come across this, I'm actually dinking around with different pine trees (Spruce, Firs, Juniper, et al). I hadn't realized Juniper had such a miserable incubation period, iirc it's worse than a Japanese maple or Sequoia and if it weren't for this video I'd of wasted a bit of time. Thank you!
Excellent video on propagation of junipers by cuttings.
Great video! As much fun as it is to watch styling videos, I find learning about the horticulture much more helpful as a beginner.
Thanks for the great info. I think you solved the problem with my pathetic strick rate with easy-to-root species nobody else has problems with. I bought the encyclopedia through your link. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for this ... I have a mutant branch upon one of my upright blue junipers, the thing is growing in a much different form. I'm generally pretty good with cuttings, though have never attempted juniper.
Great info on propagation. I love my junipers and now I can try to make many more using this method.
Max
Blah, blah, blah…😂🤣😂. You don’t talk to much. You don’t repeat unnecessarily. All your sounds and words are appropriate to convey the info. Very helpful and thorough info. I’ve been propagating other plants and I e learned some and h e had my own observations confirmed. Thank you, sir 🙏😊
You have done a superb job explaining juniper propagation. I thank you very, very much!
So We’ll done. I’m a beginner to all of this. I found you through Modern Bonsai podcast. This video helped me so much thanks!
Welcome! Propagating and growing junipers is a good way to start!
hay quá cảm ơn Bác đã chia sẻ kinh nghiệm nhân giống ,chúc Bác nhiều sức khỏe có nhiều video hay ạ
Just got my book and you are right best step by step, specie by specie encyclopedia.Get the textbook if you want to grow.
Excellent video. Used it to get a flat going myself. I do hydroponic gardening as well and love perlite.. using it for cuttings makes a lot of sense to me. We'll see how things come out next year. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. :)
Thanks for producing these videos Eric, Great info
Junipers are very easy to strike , its almost 100% , but one thing I now do for all cuttings , especially spring /summer/early fall ones is to place the flats or growing pots with cuttings in a flat without holes in the bottom , I put about an inch of small ( pea sized ) gravel in the bottom and put cutting container into the gravel filled tray and add water to the top of the gravel . I also drill a few holes around the sides of the tray at the upper gravel layer so the water cannot fill the tray or overflow with rain. Once they strike they will start to put roots out of the bottom and in numbers as they head down to find the water. They clearly don't like stagnant waterlogged pots but they thrive in a moisture rich soil which also has air spaces ( akadama/perlite type). Like your recent mame video , I also keep my mame bonsai in a tray , but with gravel and water. They grew stronger and healthier with no issues about drying out. None look unhealthy ( and moss grows quickly) . Come winter they have to come off the trays due to freezing but resume in spring. I originally saw the idea of container with water in it for cuttings in a Japanese bonsai growers video for maple cuttings , it entirely eliminates watering issues ( even though the soil is constantly wet ) . Great channel .
But without holes in the flat the cuttings are in they will drown when it rains. Sure over flow will run into tray with gravel and holes but the cuttings still drown .
Excellent video, and thank you for properly showing and explaining to all of us. Now I know why my cutting never took root. The last video I saw I'm not gonna say who made it, but the video just seemed like get a cutting, spit on it, then slam it into the soil, bam 2-5 months you got a tree.
I'm glad it was helpful! It's definitely a bit more effort than cut, spit, and slam! ;-)
The bonsai tree is so beautiful!thank you for sharing!
Extremely thorough and informative!! Thank you :)
Thanks! I live in the desert Southwest, and I think I'm going to try this technique on some Alligator Junipers this fall; beautiful trees, and I'd love to see what I can make of them. Excellent video, excellent advice!
Do note that there is wide variation in success between different juniper species - while J. scopulorum has been used in the nursery industry for a long time, others have not. That may or may not be due to problems with propagation.
Nice tips for growing junipers
Great video Eric! Starting a bunch of shimpaku cuttings this year myself, super eager to see how it goes :)
I will try out next year, Thank you for sharing your technique.
Great information, thanks for sharing your insights! Plus, a new book for me to collect. 👍
Thank you - lots of useful and insightful tips.
Very informative, thank you.
I've never had great luck with shimpaku juniper. I have rooted them, but my success rate is around 50% or less and it seems to take forever. I wish they were as easy as Parsonii juniper, lol. I've managed to root up to 9" cuttings of parsonii juniper faster than "perfect" shimpaku cuttings.
They are slow, but if you look at the type of cutting in the video, you'll see you can save years of waiting by using the right type of growth....
Great info and comparisons. Really helpful.
Very interesting , 1 year for cuttings wow , patients required then lol. Our weather pattern here in Australia is fluctuating all over the place this spring loads of rain a cooler temperatures than normal so cuttings may fail I feel , I will try the perlite and coco coir mix for a change I usually just use propergating sand for my cuttings with mixed results , thanks for putting your video together on this. Cheers.👍
Great video thank you for the great info
Great detailed instruction!
Este video es lo que estaba buscando. Gracias.
There is abviously some time passed between the sticking of the cuttings and the release of this video. What is the best time of year to take the cuttings?
The cuttings are taken in fall - here in SF that's Oct-Nov. At the beginning we show the taking and sticking of the new cuttings. At the end of the video, what are shown are 1 year old cuttings that were done at this time last year.
So it’s end of January on the us east coast and the snow has lifted and I noticed there’s a giant bush of junipers on the way to a local metro station. Can I just rock up there and chop off a branch and then turn this into cuttings? Or will there be a chance of finding rooted small branches? Or do I have to wait till spring to do that to see new growth on the plant? These look like big older bushes. I really want to create a little mame landscape with these junipers. If I stick the rootless cuttings into a landscape set up will they root and survive? Or will the soil be inappropriate and therefore they’ll die off?
Absolutely what I needed as I have two junipers I want to take cuttings off. My big question is about the heat mat. I dont have one. Will I still get reasonable results if they are left outside (UK)?
I have done it without, yes. Rooting tends to be much slower. Given the minor expense I would suggest you purchase one. There are options as low as $15 on Amazon, and almost all of them even with a thermostat are under $50. amzn.to/3K2s4Qj
@@Bonsaify cheers for that. I will have a look.
@@Bonsaify So do you have power to your greenhouse? I don't, so i would have to use this indoors. Would that be an issue at cuttting stage - Ive never kept them indoors before?
Ah, yeah, what you want is warm and humid. So it you have a greenhouse, I'd say better there without bottom heat than inside with bottom heat. Since making this video, I've also tried a batch in July under mist in a greenhouse, no bottom heat and gotten good results. (I mist using an electronic leaf, but you can use a propagation timer, or just keep the humidity super high)
@@Bonsaify Thanks for that extra information. I am in the process of sorting out powerr to the greenhouse but that may be awhile coming yet. i really appreciate you taking the time to respond again :)
Very informative
Love your videos, thank you.
Thanks David!
I just had to buy the book
Very helpful hopefully you will do more spices in the future.
Very helpful video for beginners! How long do I leave the cuttings together before I separate them into their own individual pots?
I usually leave them about 1 year. But you can possibly do it a bit sooner. The problem is that sometimes you'll damage the new roots - and they don't yet have any wood in them. It's a slow species!
@@Bonsaify thank you for the reply! Just started my bonsai journey here in Hawaii! Junipers will be my first try at propagation
I'm assuming from the video and some of the comments, that it wouldn't be possible to use a thicker trunk to propagate a new Juniper. I'm asking that because a juniper big tree was cut on a uncle's condo, and I was wondering if some of the thicker trunks could be used to make bonsai
Possible as air-layers in some cases, but not normally as cuttings. Doesn't hurt to try, but I wouldn't count on it.
@@Bonsaify I see, I probably won’t do it, cause I don’t even know when the tree was cut
I soak my juniper cuttings in water for a couple of hours before I plant them. I am not sure if it makes any difference, but it would be interesting to know if anyone else does the same.
How long do you keep the heating mat operating - months or years? Do you need it during hotter summer months?
You can do without it actually. But I use if for a couple months.
Really informative, thank you for sharing your video. You mentioned the medium you used for planting the cuttings, could you please let me have it again so I can try and get something similar here in the UK?
I'm using 80% perlite and 20% coco coir by volume (fluffed coir) and keeping the fresh cuttings on bottom heat or in a greenhouse or both. I would imagine you can find either or them there but if not, peat moss will work rather than coco coir, and you can do rooting in many different media - including sand/peat and fine bonsai soil as well. The medium is not the most critical thing - the health of the parent plants seems to make the most difference.
Is using pre peat plugs 72s advisable
I am sorry if I missed it. Time of year on doing juniper cuttings? I have been thinking of trying to do some in the winter months. Using a heated box.
My experience is that Oct-Nov in Northern hemisphere is ideal. But, you can get them to take at other times, just lower percentages. My experience is in a mild winter climate, so not sure how Dec-Jan would be in a colder climate.
Thank you 😊 but one question, I live in Canada when is the best time to do this? In fall or spring?
Give it a try now. See what happens.
@@Bonsaify Thank you so much for replying. I really appreciate it and all your videos.
I just want to plant mountain juniper for deer cover. I have access to a lot of it. What’s the biggest plant I could pull out of the ground and trans plant?
Ah, well that depends on the health and conditions of the plant. Generally in fall or early spring juniper collection has a 60-90% success rate. Higher if you're experienced, lower if you don't know how to care for them afterward. (And this is for bonsai use...I have no idea about just transplanting.)
Beautiful and useful video, Thank you
Hire I used the same technic with Phoenician juniper but didn't work ?🤔 !!?!
I'm not familiar with that variety - but there is a large variation among different species and varieties in terms of cutting success. E.g. I've tried this with one of our native junipers and had no success...
@@Bonsaify thank you so much for help
Hire in Tunisia, north Africa Phoenician juniper is the most expend variety
Great video - thank you so much!
Is the reason that the cuttings from the old bonsai don't have much vigor because you've taught the plant to grow slowly? And that cutting you took from the vigorous plant doesn't know any better, so it takes off?
It seems so. I didn't believe it until I did a few thousand. But yeah, small cuttings and cuttings from weak or controlled material do not grow as quickly.
Hi, very good video. When is the right time to do it?
We primarily do it (and have best succes) starting in September through November here in San Francisco.
Depending on your local climate, I think early fall, before any real cold weather but after the heat of summer has started to subside. As mentioned in the video, there are many factors. Good luck!
@@Bonsaify thanks for the info
@Bonsaify I have a question. I started a propagation pop doing my best to follow what you've done. My question is do I need to worry about frost and freezing temperatures with the cuttings? I started the pot at the beginning of November.
I think if you can supply bottom heat to keep the roots from freezing that would solve it. However a greenhouse might be better. One of the reasons that cutting propagation varies is that in different locations there are different restrictions. I spoke with another grower who did all his cuttings in June with misting and as hot temperatures as possible. I tested that and found that it didn't work as well...
@@Bonsaify thank you that helps
Thanks for the info, will this work in the spring? I have a local source juniper that's being used for ground cover, neighbor has given me the greenlight for taking a few cuttings.
The success rates vary by time of year and many other factors. Try the same technique and see if the timing makes a difference. There are many successful ways to make juniper cuttings. Do however pay attention to the variety as this more than many other factors will determine success or failure.
@@Bonsaify gotcha. I'll do a spring and a fall trial run. It's more for me procuring some "free" bonsai but in case somebody wants one I'll have some just growing for that purpose.
Super useful, cheers!
Nice one, thanks
Sorry if I missed this but how often do you water the cuttings in the 80/20 mix?
The key here is that you want to keep the foliage in high humidity / moist, but he roots do not need to be soggy. So I often just sprinkle the tops with water, keeping the cuttings in shade (in fall). The bottom heat is among the more important factors. I would say I did a full watering no more than 2x/week. Overhead light sprinkle 1-2 times per day. Keep in mind perlite retains a lot of water and the cuttings are not absorbing much of it from the soil.
Thank you!@@Bonsaify
Absolutely loved it, 🍃🌿🌴☘🌱👏👏👏
Really useful, thanks
Great video. Do you ever air layer junipers?
I try: ruclips.net/video/8CcPvzrPcoI/видео.html
I have succeeded also, but that video is an older tree.
what time of year should this be done?
I've had the most success in October and November, but many people do it in spring or summer also.
Great video👍👍👍
Hi, thanks for the video, I have a question regarding to how much watering should be done when I live on a hot tropical island in the Cayman Islands?
You'll want to use the same gauge - if the soil is wet, don't water. I would expect that you'll do well since hot and humid is what makes rooting cuttings easier.
@@Bonsaify Thanks! I will certainly give this a try if I can find a suitable source.
Wow hadir nyimak👍👍👍
80% Perlite/20% coco coir by weight or volume? With the Coco Coir compressed or expanded and wet?
By volume. And fluff the coir first. Cheers. E.g. 4 scoops perlite to 1 scoop coir.
Do you resharpen your tools? If so what method do you recommend?
I use Japanese water stones, widely available from woodworking outlets, or sometimes knife shops. I find a 1000/6000 combination stone to be useful, although a 400/1000 stone is also good, depends on how sharp you want your tools. I mostly just touch up scissors and grafting knives with the 1000 side of the stones, I find it's good enough. amzn.to/3DpD4TH
How often and when do you water? Useful info thank you for sharing all your hard work!
In many cases, the perlite mixture will hold enough water for 4-5 days without watering. You don't want the tops to stay dry - high humidity is good - but you don't want the bottoms to stay sopping wet. When you water, just lightly wet the top of the cuttings with a quick pass of a hose. Then check the soil moisture and water only if it's starting to dry out. In my back yard in fall, even without rain, and in the shade, this can be a week or more. But you'll have to judge based on your local conditions...
thank you for the information :D , how about propogation pine? is it same like a juniper
Hi - no, pines do not take from cutting. Some people air-layer which I've never tried. Seed for pines is very reliable and fast.
Nice bro
What is the perfect time for plant
The techniques I use here are in November in my area. But, as I mentioned, you can take cuttings through a large portion of the year. We did some in June this year and they have done well!
How often do you water your cuttings ?
I am trying some with 100% perlite for chinese juniper, i put them in a container that is in contact with water all the time at the base ( around 1cm dip )
Is that ok ?
Ah. I would not do that actually. I follow the principle of keeping the tops in a high humidity environment, but not under mist. Using bottom heat is very beneficial (top cold, bottom warm, like 75F) and then the watering is really only about 1-2 times per week because the time of year is cooler and lower light intensity. You don't want them to stay too wet as this will cause the stems to rot, and it can also cause the new roots to rot...eg the cuttings will root and then die due to overwatering.
@@Bonsaify ok thanks, I live in south Portugal in the Algarve, it’s quite hot climate here.
I will try to put them in a mix a perlite and soil, I currently put them in a big plastic box acting as a greenhouse, will see how it turns out.
What's the likely success rate of doing this in early spring?
Early spring as long as the humidity is on the high side is probably a good time. Give it a try.
can i do this end of march begining of april?
Try it. I recently did a batch in June with good success.
Very informative thank you
This is fantastic! I don't have access to electricity outdoors at the moment so a heat mat is not available. I could however use one indoors. What would be my best option? Indoor propagation with a heat map or outdoors with no mat? I do have a small plastic greenhouse which they could live in
Extension cord? Hmm. I've done them in a greenhouse without a heat mat and had good success, but the humidity is high. Inside your house would be drier than what is ideal. I would say outside without the mat, but I guess it depends on the outside temperature also. Inside a small greenhouse would be good as long as there isn't too much direct light - e.g. under the bench might work.
Wonderful video, Eric. Is there a benefit to taking the cuttings in fall as opposed to spring?
Depends on the rest of the variables. You can have good luck in a number of seasons - many ways to succeed.
Hi..!! What is the % of shade to propagation?
50-70% initially would probably be good. But high humidity is critical also.
How many days you water the juniper sir?
not sure I understand your question. I keep them moist and wet for a while, probably 6-8 weeks, and then check for roots.
Nice 🙂🙂🙂
Great teknik .Good job ser
I know its not the best method to propagate them but where I live I cant get live plants shipped, I could buy you kishu or itoigawa seeds?
Where do you live? You should be able to have unrooted cut materials sent from other countries, this would be better than seed still. The soil is normally the cause of import restrictions.
Here its impossible even uprooted material without soil, so the only option its seeds
Actually I tried some cuttings but didn't do well,I felt it was from the soil,so kindly let me know the ph level of the soil
Perlite is chemically inert I believe, coco coir is slightly acidic at about pH6.5.
Why wait a year? Thanks 🙏
The new roots have a habit of just breaking off at the stem when you repot too quickly. Waiting a year (or perhaps 9 months at least) allows them to be woody enough to avoid damaging them. But try it sooner and see if you have success!
This time of year is the best time for these cuttings?
In our climate yes. The best time does differ by climate due to the overwintering issue.
@@Bonsaify I'm over in Israel, its around 11a according to what I can see. So we get winter rain being a Mediterranean climate. Doesn't go below 5°c
Good
So I take it they don’t love a lot of sun?
The plants do...full sun. But the cuttings need lower light until they root, then brighter again.
Thank YOU! I M in
What is the soil name? Brother Eric
80% Perlite (use coarse grade) and 20% Coco Coir.
💗💗💗💗💗
Where are you?
Hi, We are located in the San Francisco bay area, CA.
you look like George W. Bush! thanks for the video very helpful.
"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things over and over and over again for the truth to sink in, to kind of catapult the propaganda." 😂 They misunderestimated me.👀
Oh wow, it takes a year. I think I've been prematurely giving up on my cuttings and throwing them away😅
It's basically a year before it's safe to transplant. They will make roots before that (like 4-6 weeks) but the new roots are very tender, so transplanting it quite bad for them at that stage. By the 1-year mark you should see top growth looking healthy, and there will be plenty of roots to keep it that way.
Everyone in the Dallas bonsai society believes that cuttings from juniper never root. I can't wait to tell them about this
That's funny.
Perlite and what?
In an earlier post he replied: "I'm using 80% perlite and 20% coco coir by volume (fluffed coir) and keeping the fresh cuttings on bottom heat or in a greenhouse or both. I would imagine you can find either or them there but if not, peat moss will work rather than coco coir, and you can do rooting in many different media - including sand/peat and fine bonsai soil as well. The medium is not the most critical thing - the health of the parent plants seems to make the most difference."
@@richardmang2558 thanks!
Quick question .
Should we pull them apart so the fibers split naturally or cut them ? Better chance with either or ?
I haven't found that splitting them is superior to cutting.
Awesome video and super informative. Thank you!