Hi Katy. I had similar issue years ago and tried many remedies. BMS reset was the first thing. Unplugging and let it be unpowered for over 20 min. - was working for sometime. Bad plug, bad terminal.bad wiring, bad battery, bad oxygen sensor... we have many things to concern. Bad cooling was also the issue. I removed rubber boots on forks and changed coolant to organic type, and added aluminum mesh on radiator. Overally it worked well. Now I don't have no issue of stalling or irregular running. One thing you may wanna try is, checking valve, compression, piston condition. Those are common causes of stalling and power loss, unstableness. Cheers.
Thanks for all the tips. Luckily it hasn’t stalled again yet so still thinking that was a battery related issue. I’ll have a look over the wiring at some point. The air sensor and oxygen sensors were cleaned or replaced recently and those fault codes disappeared. I’ll have a look on the hex gs 911 forum for some ideas. Glad you managed to get the stalling and irregular running sorted on yours :)
@@HaynesGarage Hi,Katy. One general issue is, like other big single eingine, the malfunction of decompression valve system. Even with new battery, if you find the engine starts with over 2 crankings, and if you hear clicking noise everytime your turn off the engine, You may need to think about bad decompression system. It is simply mechanical parts on exhaust valve that makes the valve slightly open at very low rpm to start the engine easily. If that is stuck and malfunctions, the symptom is hard start, noisy stop, and sometimes unstable idle. The way to check is easy. Clicking noise when stops. Check your engine. Happy ride!
Don't think the 650GS has a MAP sensor as such, the error probably relates to the air temperature sensor in the intake snorkel. Since the error is sporadic and you're also getting injector failures, it might be a wiring problem. Have you checked that known weakspot in the wiring loom behind the rear shock preload adjuster? Might be cable damage there?
Didn't you replace the air intake sensor once? (I don't think there's a map sensor) That's the first thing I would check again and make sure the wiring is good/undamaged.
Not sure about the second one but the ifrst one relates to the air pressur sensor in the air intake manifold. Easy to test with a multimeter. Test resistance between the two input wires. It should be around 6.8k ohms then test if the resistance decreases when you warm it up (you can breath on it). It would make sense that this sensor is cousing over or underfuelling. This will be helpful - ruclips.net/video/yblsPpFlLf8/видео.htmlsi=XXy-eidkErUojiFB The second error may be related to your upgraded injector? I got no idea.
Thanks for your help. I did change the air temp sensor recently but perhaps its become unplugged again or is faulty. Main thing is the bike hasn’t stalled again yet, fingers crossed!
Hi, thanks for your help. Yes, I have checked this and it all seems ok. I have continued riding my bike, and it still hasn’t stalled at high speed since changing the battery. The low speed stalling has been an issue ever since I bought it 10 years ago and doing a TPS reset seems to resolve it temporarily. Maybe a bug in the computer system? I’m going to keep riding it for a little while then read the fault codes again.
Hallo Katy - Tolle Videos, sehr informell, super kommentiert, bitte weiter so. Liebe Grüße aus Österreich Walter👌👍👍
Danke Walter. Ich freue mich, dass dir die Videos gefallen. Viel Spaß beim Reiten.
Hi Katy.
I had similar issue years ago and tried many remedies.
BMS reset was the first thing.
Unplugging and let it be unpowered for over 20 min. - was working for sometime.
Bad plug, bad terminal.bad wiring, bad battery, bad oxygen sensor... we have many things to concern.
Bad cooling was also the issue. I removed rubber boots on forks and changed coolant to organic type, and added aluminum mesh on radiator. Overally it worked well. Now I don't have no issue of stalling or irregular running.
One thing you may wanna try is, checking valve, compression, piston condition. Those are common causes of stalling and power loss, unstableness.
Cheers.
Thanks for all the tips. Luckily it hasn’t stalled again yet so still thinking that was a battery related issue. I’ll have a look over the wiring at some point. The air sensor and oxygen sensors were cleaned or replaced recently and those fault codes disappeared. I’ll have a look on the hex gs 911 forum for some ideas. Glad you managed to get the stalling and irregular running sorted on yours :)
@@HaynesGarage
Hi,Katy.
One general issue is, like other big single eingine, the malfunction of decompression valve system.
Even with new battery, if you find the engine starts with over 2 crankings, and if you hear clicking noise everytime your turn off the engine,
You may need to think about bad decompression system. It is simply mechanical parts on exhaust valve that makes the valve slightly open at very low rpm to start the engine easily.
If that is stuck and malfunctions, the symptom is hard start, noisy stop, and sometimes unstable idle.
The way to check is easy.
Clicking noise when stops.
Check your engine.
Happy ride!
Don't think the 650GS has a MAP sensor as such, the error probably relates to the air temperature sensor in the intake snorkel. Since the error is sporadic and you're also getting injector failures, it might be a wiring problem. Have you checked that known weakspot in the wiring loom behind the rear shock preload adjuster? Might be cable damage there?
I haven’t checked the area behind the rear shock preload adjuster so thank you for the advice. I will take a look to see if I notice any damage. :)
Didn't you replace the air intake sensor once? (I don't think there's a map sensor) That's the first thing I would check again and make sure the wiring is good/undamaged.
I did indeed, well remembered. I’ll take another look. No more stalling issues again though which is good. About to go out for another little spin :)
Not sure about the second one but the ifrst one relates to the air pressur sensor in the air intake manifold. Easy to test with a multimeter.
Test resistance between the two input wires. It should be around 6.8k ohms then test if the resistance decreases when you warm it up (you can breath on it). It would make sense that this sensor is cousing over or underfuelling. This will be helpful - ruclips.net/video/yblsPpFlLf8/видео.htmlsi=XXy-eidkErUojiFB
The second error may be related to your upgraded injector? I got no idea.
Thanks for your help. I did change the air temp sensor recently but perhaps its become unplugged again or is faulty. Main thing is the bike hasn’t stalled again yet, fingers crossed!
Did you check the inlet manifold if it's cracked or it has leaks around it?
Hi, thanks for your help. Yes, I have checked this and it all seems ok. I have continued riding my bike, and it still hasn’t stalled at high speed since changing the battery. The low speed stalling has been an issue ever since I bought it 10 years ago and doing a TPS reset seems to resolve it temporarily. Maybe a bug in the computer system? I’m going to keep riding it for a little while then read the fault codes again.
@@HaynesGarage maybe get in touch with another user close to you and swap the ECU? that way you'll know for sure if it's a software issue