Hi Gormo, Having watched this video only this week (Apr 24) I have spotted that in the UK ‘Hooby Craft’ are selling packs of short Mini Lolly Sticks in packs of 50 for £2.00 These are have 180 degree radius at each end. I think you could get two signal heads out of each stick. This note may help your UK subscribers wishing to build these great and cheap signals. By using a DPDT relay you only need two wires up the signal post. The LEDS are wired back to back and then the relay reverses the polarity of the feed wires and hence switches from Red to Green. Love your channel. Tony T🚂
Hi Gormo ,, what an awesome video you put on for us to watch and enjoy. Most of what you have done i have saved soo much of what you have used here. People call me crazy for keeping all this stuff. I have even found that if you pull down and use the contents of an old printer dryers washing machines microwave ovens anything electrical or mechanical that you get lots of fine wires and also heaps of cd drive motors for your loco conversions and even found them in exterior motorised electric mirrors. I will be doing what you have done as I do like to make bits and pieces as it will save soo much money as well. Like i said thanks a heap from a fellow aussie. Cheers from John in Australia
Great video and thanks Gormo. I have already made mine from brass knowing full well at some time they will be knocked. Your idea is actually brilliant to have a " bendy" signal post. The attaching of the leds to the lolipop stick was also very cool. I am off to Spotlight in a mo to get all the bits. Bin the brass ones. I have had a lot of bother with them.
G`day Peter, I have been using the signal produced in the video for 6 years now and it has had a few knocks and yet it still survives and works. The knocks dislodge the ladder from the base in my case, so I have not bothered to re-glue to the base, but rather just leave it connected to the top of the mast. If I knock it, the ladder moves with the mast, so I then just place the ladder back properly to rest on the base and away we go again. I am sure a brass or plastic model would have been killed many times over in the last 6 years, yet my basic craft stick and cotton bud survives...??? All the best Gormo
@@greatchesterfordjunction Yes. I poo poo'd the idea as cheap and nasty at first but I now see the beauty of it. Bloody Aussies done it again!!!...big well done mate!.... Goes to prove Einstein was right. ..." Keep things simple but not too simple!" I am in Narangba, Queensland.
Hi Gormo, Another useful video. I made these in brass previously; Will use your method in future. I have these ideas to throw into your pot of gold. Hope they will help others too. 1. On a two aspect signal I link the LEDs together ‘back to back’ so that the anode of one connects to the cathode of the other, also known as being in ‘reverse parallel’. Then only two wires are needed down the post. When you reverse the polarity the colours changeover. The dropper resistor is wired into either wire. I find a 1k ohm resistor works fine for the LEDs I source in the UK. 2. To cover the wires on the back of the head I use ‘Milliput’, (putty that sets hard) formed into a rectangle with an access door scribed onto the back. 3. I extend the post below the baseplate and long enough to pass through my baseboard, to aid fitting and wiring. Love your clear presentation, I sure it will inspire newbies and oldies alike. Thank you. Happy Modelling T 🚂
You're a superstar, dude! Thank you so much for this. Am going to start to brave what I call the more advanced stuff in my layout, i.e. the signals and found this at just the right time! The only thing I would say is maybe include a sketch of the circuitry, but that's easy enough to work out. Thanks again!
G`day robotmonkey, Sounds like you`re going to be a busy man. I need to make some more signals myself. The circuitry is ultra simple......sorry no diagram.....but should be easy enough to find online. Stay safe Cheers Gormo
No worries Frank, My signals are not as elegant as a commercial product ,so I don`t think the big boys have to worry, however this method may be helpful for those of us on a limited budget who are willing to give it a go.???? Cheers Gormo
Morning Gormo, hope you are well. Great little project which I will attempt to emulate for my Grandchildrens’ model Railway. The materials used will be absolutely ideal for their ‘rough’ handling! My normal medium is brass, as you mention, which is very expensive to waste! Great project and an ideal Winter (for us) project. Enjoy your Spring & Summer! Bob (ps, I use “Kynar” wrapping wire which is ultra thin - check out RSComponents)
Glad to hear it Western Ranger, You must be contemplating having lots of signals.? The beauty of this simple method is the fact that they will bend. I have knocked my one and only a couple of times now and all that has happened to it is, that the ladder came unstuck at the base, whereas a rigid plastic or brass signal would have been considerably damaged and expensive to replace. Apologies for the late reply and happy signal building. Cheers Gormo
No sorry John, The stand was given to me and I had to adapt it to suit my drill. They must be available somewhere.? You could search for " Mini Drill Press Stand " and something should turn up. Cheers Gormo
G`day Neil, Starting from the LED`s......connect the two negative legs of the LED`s to a resistor capable of dealing with the input voltage you are using. You need to protect the LED`s from too much voltage. The resistor is a limiter in effect. There are online calculators to determine the resistor required based on....... the input voltage (Source voltage) of the power source, the LED voltage ( usually 2 to 3 volts know as diode forward voltage ) and the Milliamps (Diode forward current known as Ma )...link below. led.linear1.org/1led.wiz/ Connect the other end of the resistor via a wire, to the negative input of your power supply. On your SPDT switch, connect a wire to the middle terminal ( Common ) and connect the other end of the wire to the positive input on your power source. Connect a wire from the Positive leg of the Red LED to the RIGHT terminal of the SPDT switch. Connect a wire from the Positive leg of the Green LED to the LEFT terminal of the SPDT switch. Now it will work. Cheers Gormo
¡Hola buenas noches Gormo! Greetings from northern Almería province in Spain. How did I miss this video when I was looking through your site a few months back? I’ve just spent the afternoon and evening struggling with brass rods and card to try and scratch-build a 2 aspect signal. Your design trumps all my attempts and, at such a low cost! I have all but the craft sticks but will definitely making up the marking-out jig and will report back when competed. As an aside: I used to live in Saffron Walden, Essex UK, a stone’s throw from Great Chesterford. I’m not sure if that has any connection to your Channel, other than a Great Chesterford out there in Oz? Just thought I’d share that.
G`day A Train In Spain Good luck with the signal build. I think you`ll find the method in the video very easy and of course, minimal cost to you. Another advantage is that the post being made from plastic allows it to flex and occasional knocks really have no effect and cause no damage as such. Brass would not tolerate too much rough handling. My ancestors came from Great Chesterford in Essex and migrated to Australia in the 1800`s, hence the name of the layout, plus I have been to Great Chesterford and also Saffron Walden a couple of times now. It just goes to show it`s a small world these days......G`day neighbour. I look forward to hearing how you get on with the signal build. Cheers Gormo
Had a really productive day in the garage. I have made my first signal, following your method. I had a few ideas to further assist construction, namely using a single cord cable, insulated wire used in motor windings and, found that some 2mm diameter plastic tubing I had in my box was an ideal replacement for the q-tip cores. I did make the assembly jig and, how useful it was too. Whilst drilling out the wooden sticks, I found I could prevent them splitting buy using the drill in reverse - sounds weird but, it worked every time. Thanks again for the video, sorry I can’t find how to attach pics or a video here, to show you my results. However, I will be sure to check out your other videos as and when I find myself ready to extend the layout here and, need inspiration and use of your vast knowledge within the hobby. Cheers Gary
G`day Paul, The base measures 9mm wide ( same as the craft stick ) by 18mm length. It`s up to you though.....you can make it what you like.?? Cheers Gormo
Thanks Ray, Now I didn`t know that.........research at this end throws up all sorts of images of signals but I must say I had not picked up on the colour of the posts...........noted with thanks. Cheers Gormo
Hi Gormo, Having watched this video only this week (Apr 24) I have spotted that in the UK ‘Hooby Craft’ are selling packs of short Mini Lolly Sticks in packs of 50 for £2.00 These are have 180 degree radius at each end. I think you could get two signal heads out of each stick. This note may help your UK subscribers wishing to build these great and cheap signals. By using a DPDT relay you only need two wires up the signal post. The LEDS are wired back to back and then the relay reverses the polarity of the feed wires and hence switches from Red to Green. Love your channel.
Tony T🚂
G`day Tony and thanks for the information
UK readers please take note.
Cheers
Gormo
Hi Gormo ,, what an awesome video you put on for us to watch and enjoy. Most of what you have done i have saved soo much of what you have used here. People call me crazy for keeping all this stuff. I have even found that if you pull down and use the contents of an old printer dryers washing machines microwave ovens anything electrical or mechanical that you get lots of fine wires and also heaps of cd drive motors for your loco conversions and even found them in exterior motorised electric mirrors.
I will be doing what you have done as I do like to make bits and pieces as it will save soo much money as well.
Like i said thanks a heap from a fellow aussie.
Cheers from John in Australia
No worries John,
I`m glad you have gained some benefit from my videos
Cheers
Gormo
Great video and thanks Gormo.
I have already made mine from brass knowing full well at some time they will be knocked. Your idea is actually brilliant to have a " bendy" signal post.
The attaching of the leds to the lolipop stick was also very cool.
I am off to Spotlight in a mo to get all the bits.
Bin the brass ones.
I have had a lot of bother with them.
G`day Peter,
I have been using the signal produced in the video for 6 years now and it has had a few knocks and yet it still survives and works.
The knocks dislodge the ladder from the base in my case, so I have not bothered to re-glue to the base, but rather just leave it connected to the top of the mast.
If I knock it, the ladder moves with the mast, so I then just place the ladder back properly to rest on the base and away we go again.
I am sure a brass or plastic model would have been killed many times over in the last 6 years, yet my basic craft stick and cotton bud survives...???
All the best
Gormo
@@greatchesterfordjunction
Yes.
I poo poo'd the idea as cheap and nasty at first but I now see the beauty of it.
Bloody Aussies done it again!!!...big well done mate!....
Goes to prove Einstein was right. ..." Keep things simple but not too simple!"
I am in Narangba, Queensland.
@@petercane6376
Ah yes.......just West of Deception Bay..👍
Hi Gormo, Another useful video. I made these in brass previously; Will use your method in future.
I have these ideas to throw into your pot of gold. Hope they will help others too.
1. On a two aspect signal I link the LEDs together ‘back to back’ so that the anode of one connects to the cathode of the other, also known as being in ‘reverse parallel’. Then only two wires are needed down the post. When you reverse the polarity the colours changeover. The dropper resistor is wired into either wire. I find a 1k ohm resistor works fine for the LEDs I source in the UK.
2. To cover the wires on the back of the head I use ‘Milliput’, (putty that sets hard) formed into a rectangle with an access door scribed onto the back.
3. I extend the post below the baseplate and long enough to pass through my baseboard, to aid fitting and wiring.
Love your clear presentation, I sure it will inspire newbies and oldies alike. Thank you.
Happy Modelling T 🚂
Beautiful 🙏 buddy
Thanks for share, very good explanation straight forward.👍😊
So simple, so easy, so COOL ! Thanks Gormo love the videos.
Thanks Dean,
I`m glad you like it
Cheers
Gormo
Amazing work 👍👍👍👍👍
You're a superstar, dude! Thank you so much for this. Am going to start to brave what I call the more advanced stuff in my layout, i.e. the signals and found this at just the right time! The only thing I would say is maybe include a sketch of the circuitry, but that's easy enough to work out. Thanks again!
G`day robotmonkey,
Sounds like you`re going to be a busy man.
I need to make some more signals myself.
The circuitry is ultra simple......sorry no diagram.....but should be easy enough to find online.
Stay safe
Cheers Gormo
Absolutely brilliant Gormo, I do love your videos like this...Simon
Thanks Simon,
It`s all part of giving back to the hobby
Cheers
Gormo
Cool. & I love your theme music at the end.
Thank you........bout time to create a bit more I think ??
Cheers
Gormo
Excellent very well done.
I' ll bet the likes of Traintech and DCC concepts are gnashing their teeth, great money saver thanks Gormo.
No worries Frank,
My signals are not as elegant as a commercial product ,so I don`t think the big boys have to worry, however this method may be helpful for those of us on a limited budget who are willing to give it a go.????
Cheers
Gormo
Tweezers Gormo 😉..... great build 👌......Fred
Thanks Fred,
Cheers
Gormo
I've gotta agree save me shed loads thank you so very much for such a great idea
You are welcome Paul
Cheers
Gormo
Morning Gormo, hope you are well. Great little project which I will attempt to emulate for my Grandchildrens’ model Railway. The materials used will be absolutely ideal for their ‘rough’ handling! My normal medium is brass, as you mention, which is very expensive to waste! Great project and an ideal Winter (for us) project. Enjoy your Spring & Summer! Bob (ps, I use “Kynar” wrapping wire which is ultra thin - check out RSComponents)
Thanks Bob,
I hope you and your Grandkids get some fun out of the signals.
Cheers
Gormo
I like it, nothing wrong with a bit of DIY model railway. Cheers Matt
Thanks Matt,
Welcome aboard
Cheers
Gormo
Very nicely done.
Thanks Ralph,
All the best
Cheers
Gormo
what a Awesome Video
Thanks Mack,
Glad you enjoyed it
Cheers Gormo
Brilliant you have just saved me 100's of pounds
Glad to hear it Western Ranger,
You must be contemplating having lots of signals.?
The beauty of this simple method is the fact that they will bend. I have knocked my one and only a couple of times now and all that has happened to it is, that the ladder came unstuck at the base, whereas a rigid plastic or brass signal would have been considerably damaged and expensive to replace.
Apologies for the late reply and happy signal building.
Cheers
Gormo
Thats a nifty looking drill stand there Gormo for your Dremel , have you got a tutorial on how to make the stand
No sorry John,
The stand was given to me and I had to adapt it to suit my drill.
They must be available somewhere.?
You could search for " Mini Drill Press Stand " and something should turn up.
Cheers Gormo
Brilliant, very well made and explained, however? From a electronics dummy, how do you actually connect these to a SPDT switch?
G`day Neil,
Starting from the LED`s......connect the two negative legs of the LED`s to a resistor capable of dealing with the input voltage you are using. You need to protect the LED`s from too much voltage. The resistor is a limiter in effect.
There are online calculators to determine the resistor required based on....... the input voltage (Source voltage) of the power source, the LED voltage ( usually 2 to 3 volts know as diode forward voltage ) and the Milliamps (Diode forward current known as Ma )...link below.
led.linear1.org/1led.wiz/
Connect the other end of the resistor via a wire, to the negative input of your power supply.
On your SPDT switch, connect a wire to the middle terminal ( Common ) and connect the other end of the wire to the positive input on your power source.
Connect a wire from the Positive leg of the Red LED to the RIGHT terminal of the SPDT switch.
Connect a wire from the Positive leg of the Green LED to the LEFT terminal of the SPDT switch.
Now it will work.
Cheers Gormo
¡Hola buenas noches Gormo! Greetings from northern Almería province in Spain. How did I miss this video when I was looking through your site a few months back? I’ve just spent the afternoon and evening struggling with brass rods and card to try and scratch-build a 2 aspect signal. Your design trumps all my attempts and, at such a low cost! I have all but the craft sticks but will definitely making up the marking-out jig and will report back when competed.
As an aside: I used to live in Saffron Walden, Essex UK, a stone’s throw from Great Chesterford. I’m not sure if that has any connection to your Channel, other than a Great Chesterford out there in Oz? Just thought I’d share that.
G`day A Train In Spain
Good luck with the signal build. I think you`ll find the method in the video very easy and of course, minimal cost to you. Another advantage is that the post being made from plastic allows it to flex and occasional knocks really have no effect and cause no damage as such. Brass would not tolerate too much rough handling.
My ancestors came from Great Chesterford in Essex and migrated to Australia in the 1800`s, hence the name of the layout, plus I have been to Great Chesterford and also Saffron Walden a couple of times now.
It just goes to show it`s a small world these days......G`day neighbour.
I look forward to hearing how you get on with the signal build.
Cheers
Gormo
Had a really productive day in the garage. I have made my first signal, following your method. I had a few ideas to further assist construction, namely using a single cord cable, insulated wire used in motor windings and, found that some 2mm diameter plastic tubing I had in my box was an ideal replacement for the q-tip cores. I did make the assembly jig and, how useful it was too. Whilst drilling out the wooden sticks, I found I could prevent them splitting buy using the drill in reverse - sounds weird but, it worked every time.
Thanks again for the video, sorry I can’t find how to attach pics or a video here, to show you my results. However, I will be sure to check out your other videos as and when I find myself ready to extend the layout here and, need inspiration and use of your vast knowledge within the hobby. Cheers Gary
@@garydoc Good on you Gary,
Your refinements to the process sound excellent......well done.
Glad to be of assistance
Cheers
Gormo
Hi they look fantastic what are the dimensions of the signal base I think i will have a go at making these
G`day Paul,
Give me a couple more days and I`ll give you the measurements.
I am away at a conference at the moment.
Cheers
Gormo
G`day Paul,
The base measures 9mm wide ( same as the craft stick ) by 18mm length.
It`s up to you though.....you can make it what you like.??
Cheers
Gormo
Thanks for that
Does anyone which site can you buy the ladders?
Nicely done, Gormo - and cheap too ! From memory, I think British signal posts are grey.?
Thanks Ray,
Now I didn`t know that.........research at this end throws up all sorts of images of signals but I must say I had not picked up on the colour of the posts...........noted with thanks.
Cheers
Gormo
Just to clarify, I meant colour light posts, not semaphore signal posts which were white (covered in dirt).
How far apart are the two holes (Green & Red) for the 2 aspect signal?
G'day
I,m away from home at the moment so can't measure exactly but I think it was about 10mm
Gormo
that looks awesome! I also did N scale DIY signal on my channel. hope you like
G`day InvertLogic,
Thanks for your comment......I`ll have a look at your channel.
Cheers Gormo