Thanks for the Video, I made a Computer desk out of butchers block and it didnt come stained and had no idea what I was doing, first video that popped up and glad I watched it. Thanks again!
great video! how do you go about doing the other side ? did you leave one side bare and then do all the steps applied to the first side or do 1 step then flip sides and alternate with every step
Make sure you use food safe stain and oil. Before finishing and a staining spray lightly with water to raise the grain and sand when dry, stain and sand lightly and apply oil or wax and buff.
I am doing the same thing on mine following this video. I did sand between poly coats due to dust particles..I have a lot of big dust in my garage for some reason. Tomorrow I will be doing the 320 sand and final coat with a stain sponge (basically same as a cottom cloth rag) and then the next day the 400 grit. I hope it turns out smooth. So much dust particles but I don't think they'll show once sanded and they just look like wood grain spots anyway.
The process went fairly smooth, the biggest issue I had was that my environment has HUGE dust chunks..so even sanding between poly I have some little spots in there..but it just looks like wood grain so it worked out okay (in theory..I still have to wet sand the last coat tomorrow and then move it into actual room light and see how it looks..hard to tell in my not well lit garage lol.
Michael Garcia No, on the third coat you leave it the way it is otherwise it won’t have a glossy look unless you don’t like the look then you sand it, put the polyurethane down and let it dry. But on the last coat you don’t sand
He didn't! That's why you see the camera so far away... He doesn't want you to see up close all the blotchiness and imperfections not to mention all the tiny bubbles you would see... that just looks horrible. If I did that horrible job, I would have completely sanded it down and re-stained it with *oil based wood conditioner by Minwax* That protects the wood from any blotching and imperfections when staining, then I'd use the *Minwax Classic Oil Based Stain in Walnut Color* that he used. It would have matched the floors much better and looked way way nicer! his technique is also way off! That stain he used is not a rag wipe on stain. That was a very sloppy job if you ask me.
@@JUSTDREAMFREE call me crazy but I actually dig that look lol how can I achieve it? I’m in the process of making a desk top for my computer room. I got the raw butcher board counter top today and some water based dark walnut stain. And some water based poly. This will be my first time trying any wood work. I’m a noob lol I love the dark look he’s got but from what I’ve read water based won’t give you that….is that true?
As long as you use a sealer/topcoat that completely dries (like poly) you will be ok. Poly is even considered food safe by the FDA. However, if this only works if you're not going to be cutting directly on it. (Obviously a knife will cut through the poly, might even cause the poly to "chip" off.)
That is Minwax Classic Oil Based Stain in Walnut Color. You can see a lot of blotching going on over the butcher blocks. He should have used a wood conditioner before applying the stain Now there's lots and lots of imperfections and blotchiness which looks horrible! I bet they had their countertop redone 🤣
@@NewYears1978 I'm not sure seeing others do it is a good enough reason to do it yourself.. But what I can tell you is that directions on any products or from any professional wouldn't advise that. It does stain the wood. If you think the results are amazing that way, try doing it as I recommend, it will be even better. Good luck!
@@frenchy79 I didn't say it was correct or that I wanted to do it that way. I am asking for the actual reason why. Can't learn without asking. You didn't say why you shouldn't do it that way. I just finished my project and I did not pour anything on it..I was just curious what negative affect pouring might have.
@@NewYears1978 it can leave a blotchy spot that resembles the pour pattern as it absorbs quickly before you have a chance to spread it out. As you work the stain in, it will remain as a slight shadow compared to the areas that were brushed or applied properly.
@@annieangel97 As long as you use a sealer that drys hard after staining (and aren't going to be cutting on it) it is completely safe for food prep (this is also on FDA website). Poly would be ok because it completely cures (drys) and actually "seals" out any issues with using stain (or anything else that's under the poly). However, if you're going to be cutting directly on the surface this wouldn't apply because you'll cut through the poly and can even end up with bits of poly in your food if it "chips" off.
Looks great, but polyurethane should not be used to seal Butcher's Block countertops. Polyurethane can be toxic on surfaces for food preparation. You should use mineral oil since it is food safe to properly seal Butcher's Block countertops.
Brandon, Not true (depending on your definition of food preparation). According to the FDA, just about any finish that drys to a hard finish is food safe once it cures, this includes poly. Obviously, if you're cutting directly on it you shouldn't use poly as it'll damage the surface and "chip" . And in all honesty, I have never met someone that chooses to cut directly on their countertops instead of a cutting board (because no matter what kind of countertop you have, a knife will damage it and it'll have to be repaired.)
Are you using regular stain and polyurethane??? Those products are NOT food safe. The owners will need to avoid having their food come into contact with the butcher block.... You should be using a product like Dark Tung Oil or Watco oil and finish, both products are food safe.
Non of this is food grade, so you can actually use this as this wood is intended. It’s kinda of a waste of money on a beautiful butcher block. It looks great and I love the color. Mineral oil/Tung oil - they also make the food grade sealer with some color to help match other features in the kitchen.
Хобби
Thanks for the Video, I made a Computer desk out of butchers block and it didnt come stained and had no idea what I was doing, first video that popped up and glad I watched it. Thanks again!
Awesome job! Glad I found this because it's exactly what I need to do for our new kitchen remodel. Thank you!
Great l video, thank you for showing the entire process from start to finish!
Alway use pre-stain before your stain. It's in the instructions and there is a huge difference in finish quality...
Nice vids! That cough got me 😆😆
Lmfao
Same
Thank you that was very helpful as I'm getting ready to do the same process this week....the top is sanded...and ready for stain
That is a great video
Thank you
Very helpful..Thanks..👌☺️👏👏
Great video brother !
Thank you! This helped so much!
looks awesome!
great video! how do you go about doing the other side ? did you leave one side bare and then do all the steps applied to the first side or do 1 step then flip sides and alternate with every step
Nice job. If it was me i would have went darker to match your really nice dark floors
Thanks. Doing mine today!
I hope you used a wood conditioner first. It really needs it.
Make sure you use food safe stain and oil. Before finishing and a staining spray lightly with water to raise the grain and sand when dry, stain and sand lightly and apply oil or wax and buff.
Did you sand in between every application including the stain?
What type of screws did you use to attaché the butcher block
Great tutorial
DUH! Is the wood sanded first and if so what grit should one use?
I am doing the same thing on mine following this video. I did sand between poly coats due to dust particles..I have a lot of big dust in my garage for some reason. Tomorrow I will be doing the 320 sand and final coat with a stain sponge (basically same as a cottom cloth rag) and then the next day the 400 grit. I hope it turns out smooth. So much dust particles but I don't think they'll show once sanded and they just look like wood grain spots anyway.
The process went fairly smooth, the biggest issue I had was that my environment has HUGE dust chunks..so even sanding between poly I have some little spots in there..but it just looks like wood grain so it worked out okay (in theory..I still have to wet sand the last coat tomorrow and then move it into actual room light and see how it looks..hard to tell in my not well lit garage lol.
Best part 3:05. Great video!
I'm dying lmao
is 2pack poly the same?
What type of wood is this? It turn out very nicely
What stain product did you use ?
Is that a gel stain? What Brand is it?
what color is stain.
BEAUTIFUL ❤️
How thick is that butcher block?
End of the video I wanted to hear that coughing again 😂😂
Lol, don't apologize for coughing! Hope you are well!
'HELP PLEASE!!! i chose the wrong color stain. Too red. I need 'blonde'. i need to sand? Thanks so much
Semi gloss poly?
Do you know the exact Name of the stain that you used in the exact color
what brand was the stain you used? and what specific color
Is it safe to put food on this counter
nice job. what kind of wood is the top made of?
Birch I believe. I’m about to do the same thing to my kitchen.
Did you sand it again after the third coat?
Michael Garcia No, on the third coat you leave it the way it is otherwise it won’t have a glossy look unless you don’t like the look then you sand it, put the polyurethane down and let it dry. But on the last coat you don’t sand
Can you put the name of the products or pictures
Awesome video. Such a pretty result. Is the poly clear gloss or semi gloss?
At 3:40 I see "Clear Gloss" on the can
Is that Birchwood?
do you need a wood conditioner first?
yes you should
He didn't!
That's why you see the camera so far away... He doesn't want you to see up close all the blotchiness and imperfections not to mention all the tiny bubbles you would see... that just looks horrible.
If I did that horrible job, I would have completely sanded it down and re-stained it with *oil based wood conditioner by Minwax* That protects the wood from any blotching and imperfections when staining, then I'd use the *Minwax Classic Oil Based Stain in Walnut Color* that he used. It would have matched the floors much better and looked way way nicer!
his technique is also way off!
That stain he used is not a rag wipe on stain. That was a very sloppy job if you ask me.
@@JUSTDREAMFREE call me crazy but I actually dig that look lol how can I achieve it? I’m in the process of making a desk top for my computer room. I got the raw butcher board counter top today and some water based dark walnut stain. And some water based poly. This will be my first time trying any wood work. I’m a noob lol I love the dark look he’s got but from what I’ve read water based won’t give you that….is that true?
did you use a special type of stain? non toxic for the surface?
As long as you use a sealer/topcoat that completely dries (like poly) you will be ok. Poly is even considered food safe by the FDA. However, if this only works if you're not going to be cutting directly on it. (Obviously a knife will cut through the poly, might even cause the poly to "chip" off.)
Is this stuff food grade?
Is the countertop food safe with the stain on it?
Yes
Nice job ! .. just wondering , why not use epoxy rather than poliuritine ?.
That is Minwax Classic Oil Based Stain in Walnut Color.
You can see a lot of blotching going on over the butcher blocks.
He should have used a wood conditioner before applying the stain
Now there's lots and lots of imperfections and blotchiness which looks horrible!
I bet they had their countertop redone 🤣
@@JUSTDREAMFREEI think it looks great, aesthetics are to each their own.
you were able to edit the sound out while you were applying the stain...do that for when the dude coughs lol
Nice job why no close up at the end I want to see it😔😔
If I may: 1, never pour directly on the wood, but on your rag. 2, try to spread evenly following the grain of the wood.
Why? I've seen a ton of people do it this way with amazing results? Is there a reason not to do it that way?
@@NewYears1978 I'm not sure seeing others do it is a good enough reason to do it yourself..
But what I can tell you is that directions on any products or from any professional wouldn't advise that.
It does stain the wood. If you think the results are amazing that way, try doing it as I recommend, it will be even better. Good luck!
@@frenchy79 I didn't say it was correct or that I wanted to do it that way. I am asking for the actual reason why. Can't learn without asking. You didn't say why you shouldn't do it that way. I just finished my project and I did not pour anything on it..I was just curious what negative affect pouring might have.
@@NewYears1978 it can leave a blotchy spot that resembles the pour pattern as it absorbs quickly before you have a chance to spread it out. As you work the stain in, it will remain as a slight shadow compared to the areas that were brushed or applied properly.
Dont you need a food safe finish??
Thats what I was wondering! I want to stain mine but the point of having my island is for food prep and baking so I'm staying far away from this!
It’s good safe once it’s fully cured.
yes you do
@@annieangel97 As long as you use a sealer that drys hard after staining (and aren't going to be cutting on it) it is completely safe for food prep (this is also on FDA website). Poly would be ok because it completely cures (drys) and actually "seals" out any issues with using stain (or anything else that's under the poly). However, if you're going to be cutting directly on the surface this wouldn't apply because you'll cut through the poly and can even end up with bits of poly in your food if it "chips" off.
Is this food grade? I don't think so!
Awesome video, but good god, it's 2020, no more recording portrait!
What store are the Kitchen cabinets from?
Lowe’s
I'm actually building a real walnut butcher block countertop on our island right now.
Might not be a good idea if you're going for food safe countertops...
WTH with that cough!! LMAO!! Great video though!
You’re supposed to oil Butcher Block. Not polyurethane
Probably a good thing you didn't show any close ups of the finished top. ;-)
Nice job but you forgot to go over the prep and between coats steps.
Hope you used a food safe products. It is important
no mask?
::COUGH! COUGH!:: "I'm sorry."
DUDE...U DIDNT SHOOT A CLOSEUP OF THE FINISH...WHAT A POZER
Looks great, but polyurethane should not be used to seal Butcher's Block countertops. Polyurethane can be toxic on surfaces for food preparation. You should use mineral oil since it is food safe to properly seal Butcher's Block countertops.
That's what I've heard too. EZ DO is apparently a food safe finish
How long after I stain my butcher block can I apply mineral oil?
Not true poly is fine as long as you let it fully cure about 1 month.
Brandon, Not true (depending on your definition of food preparation). According to the FDA, just about any finish that drys to a hard finish is food safe once it cures, this includes poly. Obviously, if you're cutting directly on it you shouldn't use poly as it'll damage the surface and "chip" . And in all honesty, I have never met someone that chooses to cut directly on their countertops instead of a cutting board (because no matter what kind of countertop you have, a knife will damage it and it'll have to be repaired.)
@@michael4196 yes it is good. BTW there are different sheens so if you don’t like it shiny there is satin for more of a matte finish.
Me*heard the cough....rushed to comments
@ 3:02 turn your speakers way down, and you are welcome!
You gotta edit out that cough.
it was hilarious haha
pro tip: If you turn the phone sideways first, you can’t take a landscape video. You can see way more this way.
Why aren't you prestaining it? It would make your countertop stain much more even when you spread it.
He said it in the video, he didn't want to. He wanted it to match the floor better.
Are you using regular stain and polyurethane??? Those products are NOT food safe. The owners will need to avoid having their food come into contact with the butcher block.... You should be using a product like Dark Tung Oil or Watco oil and finish, both products are food safe.
Non of this is food grade, so you can actually use this as this wood is intended. It’s kinda of a waste of money on a beautiful butcher block. It looks great and I love the color. Mineral oil/Tung oil - they also make the food grade sealer with some color to help match other features in the kitchen.
Thousands of lifetime projects with Woodprix plans.
That cough 🤢 lmao
That's how covid started. Lol
That cant be good for food lol no way in hell im eating off that
Thats what plates are food. Duhhhhh
Your video probably has the best instructions out of any on youtube, but I can't watch it due to it being a vertical video. Too bad.
Rotate your monitor. Fixed!
Nice smoker's hack 😂