Gravel bikes with slicks are road bikes for everyone who doesn’t race. With the option to actually go off road. Having swapped 23mm road 2x for 32mm gravel with a 2x- the comfort for a recreational
I agree. I got a 2nd set of roadwheels for my Cannondale Topstone and have been swapping road & trail wheels depending on the ride. I've been happy with using my gravel bike as an endurance/road bike. I have since sold my aero bike because it hasn't been used much at all.
That's my setup as well. 45c Gravel tyres and Giant Revolt Advanced stock rims (which usually sit in the garage gathering dust) 34c slicks on a carbon wheelset for road use.
Gravel frame with 38mm front and 45mm rear "road" tires, 46t-30t chainrings, 11t-36t cassette Alivio shifter+rd setup, 46t-30t chainring setup with tiagra flatbar shifter+fd setup, MT201 levers with BR-UR300 calipers, 640mm flat bar, spirgrips bike handles. That's my next city/all road bike build. I'm not a pro racer so i don't need very expensive components and even buy chinese branded stuff, but i do love building my own bikes.
I've had them all, more or less -- road race, cyclocross, hybrid (old school gravel), fat tire, etc, and think that non-competitive people would mostly be better served by an "all road" bicycle. They are kind of like old French touring bikes but with modern components and materials. Wide, supple tires, mud guards (full or partial), some braze-ons for light bags, and not too aggressive geometry, and not too stiff. No need for carbon or titanium. Those are fun (I've had Carbon and Ti), but I got more out of custom fitting and tube selection than I ever did from the rest.
What would recommend for someone who lives in a city with really bad roads? I live in New Orleans, USA and our roads are horrible. Potholes, gravel, uneven tarmac, you name it. I want a bike that is comfortable and fast but can also handle an unexpected pothole.
Ive been thinking about an all road bike! I was leaning towards gravel bike, but as im biking more, I want more road performance. I was given a 10 year old Trek remedy full suspension mtb by my stepfather when he was upgrading. I have taken to riding and progressed to daily rides 20-30 miles. But I really only ride on pavement to save my butt. There are places where a gravel bike might feel handy, but the more i ride my enviornment, the more i want something leaning towards the road. Im mostly looking to navigate loose debris on the road, sandy boardwalks, and maybe some hard pack dirt trails. My enviornment is dry (southern california). The more i look into things the more I want a road bike with just a little bit of grip in adverse conditions. Nothing will be perfect, I recently crashed my mtb when its 2.5" 3c compound maxxis tire lost grip in sand on a sharp turn, sending me sliding head 1st into a curb.
@@saintdenis11 Im too new to feel like i can give good advice, but your conditions sound condusive to a gravel bike. The larger tires would provide more grip and compliance on uneven terrain. Its basically a road bike with BMX tires! I have heard gravel bikes can suffer with performance on the road. If this were a concern, then there is all road. All road is made for all road conditions and maybe a little off it 😉. From my understanding gravel was born from all road. I'll list bikes the way I see them in order of terrain capability. 1) race bike. Made for aero, not comfort, best for race day. road only 2) endurance bike. Made for comfort, ready for a full day on the bike. Road only, but you could push things rougher. 3) all road. Similar to endurance, some a little more racey, wider tire clearance for adverse conditions on the road and maybe stretching to a trail. 4) gravel bike. Endurance feel with slacker profiles for stability and control, wider bars and tires. A dirt ready drop bar bike. 5) gravel extreme. I just created this! Its a front suspension gravel bike. Ready for 2" tires. Basically a drop bar mtb with gravel gearing. 6) hard tail mtb. Made for off road, with a classic hard tail pedaling efficiency, connected yet protected! 7) full suspension mtb. This covers a gamut of bikes made to give you the ultimate feel and control in adverse conditions. Mine feels like a motorcycle and I can ride it with no hands on grass with potholes for 50+ yards. I forgot BMX bike, they sit between gravel and mtb. My 1st real bike was a BMX (GT mach one), I dont consider bikes from toys r us "real bikes".
@@saintdenis11 Oh i forgot to mention. Gearing is a thing. All road gearing is still a road drivetrain. Gravel gearing is different than road gearing. If you choose a gravel bike for the road, I suggest a 2x drivetrain, not a 1x.
There are Endurance Road bikes that can fit 650b, the Soma Fog Cutter maxes out at 700x38mm or 650x48mm(about the same diameter as 700x28). So the same trail as a 700x28mm road tire while offering the comfort of a 48mm tire. Great if you want to do an Audax or poorly paved road.
I bought a Canyon Endurace:On 7 and put 40mm Gravel tyres on it, replacing the default race tyres it comes with. I now ride it mainly on rough dirty surfaces in the mountains. Experience has been great so far.
Tire clearance is often understated. Manufacturers like to have clearance to make sure things stay 💯. If OP says they fit 40mm I wouldnt argue, I would try. Talk to the bike shop about the return policy, ask if you can test ride the tire. If theres an issue, swap back to 35mm. If you cant return the tire, buy one. Test it on the rear, if it doesnt work there, odds are you can use it up front still. Then get a 35mm for the rear.
I find CX bikes the sweet spot. Good on and off the road. Run Schwalbe G-One 40mm tubeless tires. In my case a Trek Boone with ICAN G25 carbon 650b gravel wheels.
And now i know of yet another bike category. Can you explain the difference between an all road race bike, gravel race bike, and cx bike? The lines seem to be blurring... to keep uniformity lets keep them all 2x drivetrains for comparison.
I have both an endurance bike for the roads and a mountain bike for the gravel/dirt/single tracks. In my area there are not that many gravel roads. Bascially they are in-between the roads and the trails and that's it. Not much use for them around here.
I tend to follow cycle routes like the sustrans network for example, too many lunatics in cars on the roads these days, looking at getting a new carbon endurance bike with wide-ish tyres, but with many you can’t fit a pannier rack. Don’t know if I’m missing something, I need somewhere to put a bike lock, dry warm cloths/waterproofs and munchies if I’m out for a long day or two, my current Giant Roam is versatile and good for that sort of thing.
Nice video. I love gravel bikes. Roads here are so crap and full of garbage. I don't wanna bother with a 28mm tyre at all. 32mm at least for me and a strong comfortable frame.
I really like these comparisons between categories. If only to see how builders are tweaking geometries/features outside the norm. The Checkpoint Gravel bike has a steeper head angle, and a lower stack, than the Domane endurance bike. I would say that’s fairly untypical. What do you think? The Canyon Inflite you show is actually a cyclocross bike. I guess you will not be doing a video about the differences between Cyclocross and Gravel bikes? :)
Yep, having just used the example of the slacker head angle of the gravel bike as one of the typical differences between that and an endurance bike, the figures in Trek comparison chart went on to contradict that very point made by the presenter, in respect of these two bike.
7:02 Theres nothing like seeing a $500 pulley on a $170 derailleur... Its like buying a cold air intake for your car for $10,000 (3x more than the transmission) I chose cold air intake because it should be similar performance gains.
For me, I like a bike that is efficient and I'm not interested in old skool mountain bike with wide drop bars. If you're riding is over ruff trails and roads, you don't need drops. If you're looking for some efficiency to ride the long rides. I can't recommend the gravel bike with a one by, and the wide bars that puts your hands and arms out in the wind. On normal gravel roads, 25c and 28c will work fine.
If i have a gravel bike with a slack geo the same 2x setup i would use on road bike and already have 2 sets of wheels (44mm knob for gravel and 32-35mm for road), is there any reason for me to get another *Endurance road bike (with slack geo) that i would use 32-35mm tires? I can see a case for another road bike if i wt anted a more aggressive aero bike with 28mm tires, but my road rides are catered for long distance/ audax type rides. Would i benefit from an endurance road frame? or should i just stick with my gravel bike?
GRAVEL GRAVEL GRAVEL. Rethink gravel to mean multisurface. Do not limit horizons of exploring with a Domane or Checkpoint setup with a fast rolling 700x40mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H tires or wider for some bikes. And a 2x drivetrain if live and ride hills and mountains. 1x for strong legs then zigzag uphills, and ultra fast cadence downhill then coast.
Frankly if you need more than 50 mm. of tire to ride in that road i would rather go for hardtail MTB instead non suspension bike so gravel bike is not in my scope at all its just endurance bike with big tire however its has limit over the tire size more than that >>MTB bro its suit your need its better choice
GRAVEL. A more descriptive term may be multisurface and more related to fast rolling tires. 700x45mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H on a Checkpoint SL7 with SRAM Force 2x or 700x40mm on a Domane 2x if live and ride hills and mtns of California. The Domane with 700x40mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H may be the Cadillac of San Francisco streets, packed grit paths, broken old overgrown roadways on islands, shipyards, bases, fireroads in California hills, gravel roads Mt Tamalpais and Marin Headlands. 46T or so for downhill or ultra fast cadence then coast with the 43T/30T Checkpoint SL7. My Domane has Dura Ace Di2. The new Domane has SRAM Force and red much simpler setup and simpler flawless shifting compared to my Dura Ace Di2 system.
If I want to ride very rocky or muddy trails I will get a trail or a XC mountain bike. I have no interest in riding those trails with a drop bar. In Canada, gravel roads are built using gravel. Crushed stone and sand. I do have an older aluminum cyclocross bike for doing everything from carrying bigger loads and running around. My do it everything else bike. As for my play bike, I ride my road bike. My road bike can almost do, everything the cyclocross bike can do. But I would like to keep it in top condition. I do ride it on gravel roads also, as in no pavement.
I heard the classified hub has built in efficiency loss. I suspect we wont find it making its way into racing, nor it making the revolution in the industry i thought it would.
Gravel bikes are the SUV’s of the bike world. Sold on marketing and aspiration rather than application. More expensive to buy, more expensive to run, and less efficient than regular road bikes. Also, I get frustrated by journalists always painting a picture of “endurance” bikes designed for the slow and feeble out of shape office workers. The fact is that over long distances Endurance bikes are often faster than “aero” race bikes. They are race bikes! Aero… don’t get me started!
I somewhat agree with some of your statements and disagree with others. Agree: " I get frustrated by journalists always painting a picture of “endurance” bikes designed for the slow and feeble out of shape office workers. The fact is that over long distances Endurance bikes are often faster than “aero” race bikes. " Disagree: " Gravel bikes are more expensive to run, and less efficient than regular road bikes." Gravel bikes are usually more expensive to buy (except in comparison to the lightest or most expensive road bikes!). "More expensive to run"? Really? Illustrate! "Gravel bikes are less efficient than road bikes". Not quite: they're usually heavier, but are nearly as fast as endurance road bikes with the right assembly. My Salsa WarBird certainly is! And so is my Genesis Datum (disputable, whether it is an endurance road bike - or a gravel bike proper). They're also a tad more comfortable (on average) than endurance road bikes (again, my Salsa WarBird is very comfortable with a RedShift ShockStop seatpost and an SMP Plus colour (microfibre!) saddle, meaning, potentially faster in the long run. Another clear advantage of the gravel bikes - is their superior versatility. With the right tyres some make excellent endurance road bikes. I personally much prefer to ride on tarmac (I am no fan of dirty, jagged surfaces or ugly, heavy, slow tractor tyres), but gravel bikes will cope with forays onto unbeaten paths much better than road bikes could. Some (not all!) are compatible with mudguards, racks (some front and rear!), some sport more mounts than any road bike. That in itself is a great practical advantage, too. Last but not least: they're more durable than most road bikes. To me - a gravel bike with proper slicks is the road bike meant for everyone who loves road bike, but hates its lack of versatility and somewhat compromised durability.
This bike was really easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Cross bikes are usually more akin to a mix of the late '90-ies / early 2000-s MTB and road bike and generally come with straight bars and low-to-mid -range componentry. Gravel bikes, while can sport straight bars, usually have drop bars and are more modern / high-tech and are more expensive as a rule. Some of them also look much better than any cross bike. There's also the cyclocross bike segment (very different from the cross bike): these are a bit like gravel bikes, but usually sport a larger main triangle / higher top tube (usually, barely sloping or entirely devoid of a slope) and a higher bottom bracket for superior clearance over obstacles at the expense of both the visual appeal, stability and comfort. I personally do not care for [near-]horizontal top tubes and much prefer the compact frame geometry of many a proper gravel bike (i.e., Salsa WarBird, NordEst Albarda Ti (minus the welds and the external cable routing!), Merida Sylex X000 -series).
Except gravel bikes aren't designed to cover the type of terrain a "real" mtb is, that's the difference. They're road bikes designed to take on unpaved and/or gravel roads.
My friend put this bike together for his son and before I knew it he was done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L When the son came to put it together he was surprised to see it was already done. All he had to do was take the bike to get air and be on his way. My friend did not have any major problems putting this bike together; small issue was putting one of the brakes on straight; however when the son got home he was able to fix it. The bike rides well gears move correctly; good bike for the price. Wrote review after the son took the bike. Sorry.
There is no such thing as Gravel Bikes, this is only a marketing BS to make people feel the need to buy a new bike, Gravel bikes are road bikes with wider tyres, if your bike can take wider tyres, you don't need a new "gravel" bike!
If you want drive asphalt roads , choose a roadbike. If you want drive offroad, choose a bike for offroad (like Gravel, MTB …etc) Real athletics know what they want, they don t need a YT-video. A (endurance) roadbike is build for „speed“ on long distances. Gravel-Bikes are bikes with dropbar for a little bit „offroad“ and maybe bikepacking. Most people who are driving real roadbikes, gravelbikes or MTB`s don t really need such a bike. So buy a bike you want and get happy with this. The rest is marketing.
I'd rather have a dedicated mountain bike and a another dedicated road/endurance bike than a gravel bike. I never ride off road though so I just have an endurance bike with tire clearance up to 32 which allows me to run wider tires for bad roads.
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Gravel bikes with slicks are road bikes for everyone who doesn’t race. With the option to actually go off road. Having swapped 23mm road 2x for 32mm gravel with a 2x- the comfort for a recreational
I agree. I got a 2nd set of roadwheels for my Cannondale Topstone and have been swapping road & trail wheels depending on the ride. I've been happy with using my gravel bike as an endurance/road bike. I have since sold my aero bike because it hasn't been used much at all.
That's my setup as well. 45c Gravel tyres and Giant Revolt Advanced stock rims (which usually sit in the garage gathering dust) 34c slicks on a carbon wheelset for road use.
@@raulrivera960another Topstone rider here! And the mounting points make it so versatile. Casual, commute, a bit of a workout, anything really.
Gravel frame with 38mm front and 45mm rear "road" tires, 46t-30t chainrings, 11t-36t cassette Alivio shifter+rd setup, 46t-30t chainring setup with tiagra flatbar shifter+fd setup, MT201 levers with BR-UR300 calipers, 640mm flat bar, spirgrips bike handles. That's my next city/all road bike build. I'm not a pro racer so i don't need very expensive components and even buy chinese branded stuff, but i do love building my own bikes.
I've had them all, more or less -- road race, cyclocross, hybrid (old school gravel), fat tire, etc, and think that non-competitive people would mostly be better served by an "all road" bicycle. They are kind of like old French touring bikes but with modern components and materials. Wide, supple tires, mud guards (full or partial), some braze-ons for light bags, and not too aggressive geometry, and not too stiff. No need for carbon or titanium. Those are fun (I've had Carbon and Ti), but I got more out of custom fitting and tube selection than I ever did from the rest.
What would recommend for someone who lives in a city with really bad roads? I live in New Orleans, USA and our roads are horrible. Potholes, gravel, uneven tarmac, you name it. I want a bike that is comfortable and fast but can also handle an unexpected pothole.
Ive been thinking about an all road bike! I was leaning towards gravel bike, but as im biking more, I want more road performance. I was given a 10 year old Trek remedy full suspension mtb by my stepfather when he was upgrading. I have taken to riding and progressed to daily rides 20-30 miles. But I really only ride on pavement to save my butt. There are places where a gravel bike might feel handy, but the more i ride my enviornment, the more i want something leaning towards the road. Im mostly looking to navigate loose debris on the road, sandy boardwalks, and maybe some hard pack dirt trails. My enviornment is dry (southern california). The more i look into things the more I want a road bike with just a little bit of grip in adverse conditions. Nothing will be perfect, I recently crashed my mtb when its 2.5" 3c compound maxxis tire lost grip in sand on a sharp turn, sending me sliding head 1st into a curb.
@@saintdenis11 Im too new to feel like i can give good advice, but your conditions sound condusive to a gravel bike. The larger tires would provide more grip and compliance on uneven terrain. Its basically a road bike with BMX tires! I have heard gravel bikes can suffer with performance on the road. If this were a concern, then there is all road. All road is made for all road conditions and maybe a little off it 😉. From my understanding gravel was born from all road. I'll list bikes the way I see them in order of terrain capability.
1) race bike. Made for aero, not comfort, best for race day. road only
2) endurance bike. Made for comfort, ready for a full day on the bike. Road only, but you could push things rougher.
3) all road. Similar to endurance, some a little more racey, wider tire clearance for adverse conditions on the road and maybe stretching to a trail.
4) gravel bike. Endurance feel with slacker profiles for stability and control, wider bars and tires. A dirt ready drop bar bike.
5) gravel extreme. I just created this! Its a front suspension gravel bike. Ready for 2" tires. Basically a drop bar mtb with gravel gearing.
6) hard tail mtb. Made for off road, with a classic hard tail pedaling efficiency, connected yet protected!
7) full suspension mtb. This covers a gamut of bikes made to give you the ultimate feel and control in adverse conditions. Mine feels like a motorcycle and I can ride it with no hands on grass with potholes for 50+ yards.
I forgot BMX bike, they sit between gravel and mtb. My 1st real bike was a BMX (GT mach one), I dont consider bikes from toys r us "real bikes".
@@saintdenis11 Oh i forgot to mention. Gearing is a thing. All road gearing is still a road drivetrain. Gravel gearing is different than road gearing. If you choose a gravel bike for the road, I suggest a 2x drivetrain, not a 1x.
There are Endurance Road bikes that can fit 650b, the Soma Fog Cutter maxes out at 700x38mm or 650x48mm(about the same diameter as 700x28). So the same trail as a 700x28mm road tire while offering the comfort of a 48mm tire. Great if you want to do an Audax or poorly paved road.
I bought a Canyon Endurace:On 7 and put 40mm Gravel tyres on it, replacing the default race tyres it comes with. I now ride it mainly on rough dirty surfaces in the mountains. Experience has been great so far.
I Got an Canyon Endurance too ans was thinking of putting wider tires on it
Can fit 40c front and rear???
@@derekim75 35’s
Tire clearance is often understated. Manufacturers like to have clearance to make sure things stay 💯. If OP says they fit 40mm I wouldnt argue, I would try. Talk to the bike shop about the return policy, ask if you can test ride the tire. If theres an issue, swap back to 35mm. If you cant return the tire, buy one. Test it on the rear, if it doesnt work there, odds are you can use it up front still. Then get a 35mm for the rear.
Wider tyres do not necessarily have greater rolling resistance. In fact they can in some cases have less rolling resistance due to less deflection.
This got me to read the comments. Indeed, beliefs die hard.
I find CX bikes the sweet spot. Good on and off the road. Run Schwalbe G-One 40mm tubeless tires. In my case a Trek Boone with ICAN G25 carbon 650b gravel wheels.
And now i know of yet another bike category.
Can you explain the difference between an all road race bike, gravel race bike, and cx bike? The lines seem to be blurring... to keep uniformity lets keep them all 2x drivetrains for comparison.
I have both an endurance bike for the roads and a mountain bike for the gravel/dirt/single tracks. In my area there are not that many gravel roads. Bascially they are in-between the roads and the trails and that's it. Not much use for them around here.
No nature trails?
I tend to follow cycle routes like the sustrans network for example, too many lunatics in cars on the roads these days, looking at getting a new carbon endurance bike with wide-ish tyres, but with many you can’t fit a pannier rack. Don’t know if I’m missing something, I need somewhere to put a bike lock, dry warm cloths/waterproofs and munchies if I’m out for a long day or two, my current Giant Roam is versatile and good for that sort of thing.
Gravel bikes are for people who want two bike in one..I'd rather have an endurance and an xc fs.
Nice video. I love gravel bikes. Roads here are so crap and full of garbage. I don't wanna bother with a 28mm tyre at all. 32mm at least for me and a strong comfortable frame.
I really like these comparisons between categories. If only to see how builders are tweaking geometries/features outside the norm.
The Checkpoint Gravel bike has a steeper head angle, and a lower stack, than the Domane endurance bike. I would say that’s fairly untypical. What do you think?
The Canyon Inflite you show is actually a cyclocross bike. I guess you will not be doing a video about the differences between Cyclocross and Gravel bikes? :)
Yep, having just used the example of the slacker head angle of the gravel bike as one of the typical differences between that and an endurance bike, the figures in Trek comparison chart went on to contradict that very point made by the presenter, in respect of these two bike.
7:02 Theres nothing like seeing a $500 pulley on a $170 derailleur...
Its like buying a cold air intake for your car for $10,000 (3x more than the transmission)
I chose cold air intake because it should be similar performance gains.
For me, I like a bike that is efficient and I'm not interested in old skool mountain bike with wide drop bars. If you're riding is over ruff trails and roads, you don't need drops. If you're looking for some efficiency to ride the long rides. I can't recommend the gravel bike with a one by, and the wide bars that puts your hands and arms out in the wind. On normal gravel roads, 25c and 28c will work fine.
28c will absolutely not do fine you are definitely going to get hurt the first rut or rock you hit and the grip will not be sufficient at all.
I choose endurance bikes.
The sportiest one would be Orbea Orca. Not the OMX, the OMR!
it fits 35mm tyres and have very roadie geometry
Very informative video....
The Most Versatile wins.
If i have a gravel bike with a slack geo the same 2x setup i would use on road bike and already have 2 sets of wheels (44mm knob for gravel and 32-35mm for road), is there any reason for me to get another *Endurance road bike (with slack geo) that i would use 32-35mm tires? I can see a case for another road bike if i wt anted a more aggressive aero bike with 28mm tires, but my road rides are catered for long distance/ audax type rides. Would i benefit from an endurance road frame? or should i just stick with my gravel bike?
Or better yet, get one of each!
Can I put endurance tires on Giant revolt advanced 3 (gravel bike) for some occasions?
Is it technically possible?
Of course why would you not be able to? Most people get 2 sets of wheels one with road one with gravel.
Surprised that the Domane headtube is taller on the endurance bike than the gravel version.
Yeah the Domane is a great all around bike, more than their Checkpoint.
Canyon Roadlite no doubts
GRAVEL GRAVEL GRAVEL. Rethink gravel to mean multisurface. Do not limit horizons of exploring with a Domane or Checkpoint setup with a fast rolling 700x40mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H tires or wider for some bikes. And a 2x drivetrain if live and ride hills and mountains. 1x for strong legs then zigzag uphills, and ultra fast cadence downhill then coast.
lost me at over 28mm is a drag, welcome to the 00s
Seriously. 'Nuff said..
Hello. Your videos are becoming more objective and very interesting. Please maintain :)
Frankly if you need more than 50 mm. of tire to ride in that road i would rather go for hardtail MTB instead non suspension bike so gravel bike is not in my scope at all its just endurance bike with big tire however its has limit over the tire size more than that >>MTB bro its suit your need its better choice
I love the Brittish
That guy with the yellow sleeves is bouncing up and down as he pedals -- I think he needs to lower his saddle, or use shorter cranks, or something...
GRAVEL. A more descriptive term may be multisurface and more related to fast rolling tires. 700x45mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H on a Checkpoint SL7 with SRAM Force 2x or 700x40mm on a Domane 2x if live and ride hills and mtns of California. The Domane with 700x40mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H may be the Cadillac of San Francisco streets, packed grit paths, broken old overgrown roadways on islands, shipyards, bases, fireroads in California hills, gravel roads Mt Tamalpais and Marin Headlands. 46T or so for downhill or ultra fast cadence then coast with the 43T/30T Checkpoint SL7. My Domane has Dura Ace Di2. The new Domane has SRAM Force and red much simpler setup and simpler flawless shifting compared to my Dura Ace Di2 system.
This is a trick question because they're the same thing.
I think they are very similar. Is the Trek checkpoint ALR5 a gravel or s endurance bike?
Gravel
If I want to ride very rocky or muddy trails I will get a trail or a XC mountain bike. I have no interest in riding those trails with a drop bar. In Canada, gravel roads are built using gravel. Crushed stone and sand. I do have an older aluminum cyclocross bike for doing everything from carrying bigger loads and running around. My do it everything else bike. As for my play bike, I ride my road bike.
My road bike can almost do, everything the cyclocross bike can do. But I would like to keep it in top condition. I do ride it on gravel roads also, as in no pavement.
I heard the classified hub has built in efficiency loss. I suspect we wont find it making its way into racing, nor it making the revolution in the industry i thought it would.
Gravel bikes are the SUV’s of the bike world. Sold on marketing and aspiration rather than application. More expensive to buy, more expensive to run, and less efficient than regular road bikes.
Also, I get frustrated by journalists always painting a picture of “endurance” bikes designed for the slow and feeble out of shape office workers. The fact is that over long distances Endurance bikes are often faster than “aero” race bikes. They are race bikes! Aero… don’t get me started!
I somewhat agree with some of your statements and disagree with others.
Agree:
" I get frustrated by journalists always painting a picture of “endurance” bikes designed for the slow and feeble out of shape office workers. The fact is that over long distances Endurance bikes are often faster than “aero” race bikes. "
Disagree:
" Gravel bikes are more expensive to run, and less efficient than regular road bikes."
Gravel bikes are usually more expensive to buy (except in comparison to the lightest or most expensive road bikes!). "More expensive to run"? Really? Illustrate! "Gravel bikes are less efficient than road bikes". Not quite: they're usually heavier, but are nearly as fast as endurance road bikes with the right assembly. My Salsa WarBird certainly is! And so is my Genesis Datum (disputable, whether it is an endurance road bike - or a gravel bike proper). They're also a tad more comfortable (on average) than endurance road bikes (again, my Salsa WarBird is very comfortable with a RedShift ShockStop seatpost and an SMP Plus colour (microfibre!) saddle, meaning, potentially faster in the long run.
Another clear advantage of the gravel bikes - is their superior versatility. With the right tyres some make excellent endurance road bikes. I personally much prefer to ride on tarmac (I am no fan of dirty, jagged surfaces or ugly, heavy, slow tractor tyres), but gravel bikes will cope with forays onto unbeaten paths much better than road bikes could. Some (not all!) are compatible with mudguards, racks (some front and rear!), some sport more mounts than any road bike. That in itself is a great practical advantage, too.
Last but not least: they're more durable than most road bikes.
To me - a gravel bike with proper slicks is the road bike meant for everyone who loves road bike, but hates its lack of versatility and somewhat compromised durability.
@@LeoInterHyenaem - absolutely spot on in your response 👍🏼
Gravel bikes are CUV's, not SUV's.
Easy to assemble.
This bike was really easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Or buy a Endurance Road bike & a XC/downcountry Mountainbike:)
What’s the difference between a cross bike and a gravel bike
Cross bikes are usually more akin to a mix of the late '90-ies / early 2000-s MTB and road bike and generally come with straight bars and low-to-mid -range componentry. Gravel bikes, while can sport straight bars, usually have drop bars and are more modern / high-tech and are more expensive as a rule. Some of them also look much better than any cross bike.
There's also the cyclocross bike segment (very different from the cross bike): these are a bit like gravel bikes, but usually sport a larger main triangle / higher top tube (usually, barely sloping or entirely devoid of a slope) and a higher bottom bracket for superior clearance over obstacles at the expense of both the visual appeal, stability and comfort. I personally do not care for [near-]horizontal top tubes and much prefer the compact frame geometry of many a proper gravel bike (i.e., Salsa WarBird, NordEst Albarda Ti (minus the welds and the external cable routing!), Merida Sylex X000 -series).
Bottle mounts 😉 and tire clearance.
I still don't understand gravel bike 💔
Gravelbike riders are riders who cant handl riding a real mtb
Except gravel bikes aren't designed to cover the type of terrain a "real" mtb is, that's the difference. They're road bikes designed to take on unpaved and/or gravel roads.
If you can handle a gravel bike where MTB usually go you can handle a MTB better than the MTB rider.
My friend put this bike together for his son and before I knew it he was done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L When the son came to put it together he was surprised to see it was already done. All he had to do was take the bike to get air and be on his way. My friend did not have any major problems putting this bike together; small issue was putting one of the brakes on straight; however when the son got home he was able to fix it. The bike rides well gears move correctly; good bike for the price. Wrote review after the son took the bike. Sorry.
There is no such thing as Gravel Bikes, this is only a marketing BS to make people feel the need to buy a new bike, Gravel bikes are road bikes with wider tyres, if your bike can take wider tyres, you don't need a new "gravel" bike!
I agree I'm so glad I went endurance, 28c getting a second full suspension xc doing it right.
😴
If you want drive asphalt roads , choose a roadbike. If you want drive offroad, choose a bike for offroad (like Gravel, MTB …etc) Real athletics know what they want, they don t need a YT-video. A (endurance) roadbike is build for „speed“ on long distances. Gravel-Bikes are bikes with dropbar for a little bit „offroad“ and maybe bikepacking. Most people who are driving real roadbikes, gravelbikes or MTB`s don t really need such a bike. So buy a bike you want and get happy with this. The rest is marketing.
I agree with the buy a bike you want, but I can only afford one bike. So need pros and cons of different types of bike
Graval bikes are bikes that wish they were mtb
bullshit
Any more…? 🥱
None of these, because these are native ads for chinesium with stickers.
I'd rather have a dedicated mountain bike and a another dedicated road/endurance bike than a gravel bike. I never ride off road though so I just have an endurance bike with tire clearance up to 32 which allows me to run wider tires for bad roads.
Fixie