I went for a mid-range+ by account of this comparison xD steel frame so a bit heavier, but GRX600 so inbetween your groupsets and while the brakes are GRX400 the rear derailleur on a 1x set-up is GRX812. feel so much more willing to let the bike get a bit beat up with a steel frame than I would an alloy or carbon, and the Ti frame would be blissful bling but then I would worry about ruining its shiny bare metal finish.
Mid-range ... can you guys review the new Domane please... seems CANYON is always here but honestly having now been put in the position of needing to replace a stolen bike ... I going with Domane SL6 ... only rub i missing tire clearance for tires is only 38c with no fenders or at least i will need to be mindful of clearance but my biggest beef with canyon is NO fender mounts or rack space options.. they have them now but still no rack other than a seatpost clamp? ... I cannot honestly be the only person who commutes to work and wants to have a dryish rear end when conditions are less than favorable =\ ... I mean heck i might even bail on commuting with it and go mountain bike with a belt drive when my bike packing bike comes in Priority 600x .... if the maintenance stuff is as good as people say on a belt drive as degreasing and lubing a chain every two weeks on my 50 mile a day commute is anything to speak for a belt drive is way better! .. but then I am left with 'what do i use for a hillclimb bike event when i want some speed ... the N+1 struggle is REAL!
Owning an aluminium Trek Checkpoint Alr5 from 2018 fitted with 105, back rack for panniers and mudguards, I have to say that weight is absolutly not my main preoccupation! What is important is the handling (->do a good bikefit), the gearing (-> 105 is great in Switzerland) and the carrying capacity! I use my bike as a commuter, for bikepacking adventures and I also take it for the weekend rides in the club with the roadies! It just does everything so well (on and off road !) that I almost don't use my carbon Trek Emonda anymore on the road! Salut!
There’s just something about gravel and off road riding that makes me NOT want to go fast. In other words, totally different mindset for me where I don’t care so much about speed, aero, or whatever. On the road, it’s a much different story.
Last week a was racing on gravel on my steel bike with roadies on alu and carbon bikes. They were able to gain some distance on-road but on offroad I was catching them easily. It's really more up to skills than technology.
@@gcn just watched the video and noticed that the bikes were mudded up to the max and yet Si and Ollie both seemed to be as clean at the end of the video as they were at the beginning.
The more these hosts develop "Top Gear" style chemistry, the better the channel gets. I think Si's "low blow" comment and Manon's shutting the window on Ollie (prior vid) are some if the funniest moments yet..
I looked for a gravel bike last year and ultimately bought the Rose Backroad Ultegra DI2 instead of the Canyon Grail. The Backroad is in theory quite similar to the Grail SL, the Grail SLX is another step upwards, so one might call it not yet middle class anymore, but not yet highest. I am living more or less in the middle between both companies in Germany and drove to both to test the bikes. The reason why I did not go for the Canyon which I originally wanted to buy was this weird hover bar design. Canyon says it is more comfortable if you grab the upper bar while on gravel due to the increased flex. Of course with a bit less flex on the drops. But to me that is really a stupid reason for such a design. I had a pretty bad accident on my commuter bike a few years ago, when a tractor crossed my path. He took a turn without looking onto the bike lane and I could not break fast enough because I was holding the bar ends, far away from the breaks. You do not contemplate over the fact that it was exclusively the tractor driver’s fault when you fly over his front wheel at 20 km/h while your bike remains on the other side of the wheel and then land on your head, hearing the reassuring cracking noises of your helmet. And since then there are two things I never ever did again: 1. Ride a single meter without a helmet - not even on my new commuter bike 500m on an almost deserted street to the bakery to buy some bread. 2. Put my hands in a position where I cannot reach the break levers instantly, unless the condition is perfect. And perfect means high quality tarmac, where I can see and judge the surface for at least the next 50 m. No cycling lane with roots, no bad road with potholes, etc. Only Autobahn like perfect Tarmac. And also no motorized vehicles that might do stupid things. Otherwise I would never move my hands further than an inch away from the breaks. If the road condition is even slightly imperfect my standard position is on the hoods. If the road gets bad - or if I am off-road where I have to expect bad conditions constantly - I am in the drops, because it offers more stability AND due to the longer lever on the breaks I have better control over the breaking power. Call me a coward, but I would never EVER dare to ride on a gravel or forest path with my hands on the upper bar, where I could not grab the breaks within the blink of an eye. So as far as I am concerned, an invention that reduces flex on the drops but increases it on the upper bar is utterly useless and the most important reason why I did not buy an otherwise perfectly fine Canyon.
But isn't this a drop down bar issue in general? Unless you're on the hoods or drops, you can't get to the breaks. Similairly if you have flat bar and install the attachable drop ons, you can't get to the brake in time
@@stephenr80 well yes. But my first XC Mountainbike …a FAT Chance Yo Eddy also had a straight fork (no damping) …and it was alright. You have to ride a bit more cautious but you get used to it soon. Bike riding isn’t always about being the fastest or against the clock… I swapped the straight fork back then mainly for a small technical issue: the headset often became lose because of those constantly transmitted vibrations.
I love my lower-mid level aluminum gravel bike (Diamondback Comp) as much and sometimes more than my high end road bike (Cannondale SuperSix high mod). And everytime I hear a large rock ping off of my down tube on my gravel bike, I'm glad I have aluminum rather than carbon
Normal bloke Ollie, makes these video accessible. Great vid. I do agree, a set of videos where Ollie learns to off road would be great and then a suitably hard challenge at the end. Dirty Kansa Ollie?
i bought the Cannondale Topstone Sora for £950 earlier in the year. 1300 miles later on every British countryside surface you can image, in every British spring to autumn weather condition you can imagine, i can safely say that the bike is an absolute monster. It hasn't flinched once, it's effortless in the muck, fast on the road, and cosmetically dignified (which it, and you, should be in the countryside). Keep your money in your pocket people, you don't need to go anywhere near bikes like this... it's genuinely a waste. ps. enjoyable video
So basically the better ride quality made the carbon bike more of an upgrade for the rider who wasn't as used to off road riding. Whereas for the more experienced off road rider the carbon bike did not make so much difference.
12:05 I love that you can hear the camera man laughing while Ollie stumbles through the stream. The music pause was perfect too. Don't worry Ollie, I'm always on your side though buddy.
RE: Opinion of gravel bikes being a fad. Gravel bikes, while obviously not as good as road bikes are on the road, are still great on the road but can also be taken on light offroad stuff where it's not so great to ride on your average 23c road bike tyres. They also have more comfortable geometry and lower gearing if you need it, and you also have loads of options for wheels and tyres. I just got a gravel bike after having a MTB for nearly 10 years (which I still have). Since I mainly ride on roads, but sometimes also canals and gravel bike paths, it's really the perfect option for me. A MTB isn't needed for that sort of thing and are slower on the road and climbing due to tyres, riding position etc. This type of riding is very common for many people, so I really don't think they'll go away. I think they will only get more popular. I can understand why people think it's a fad, but imo it won't be. With that said, I do see some videos on here promoting them where I just think "that looks completely out of its depth and out of place on that terrain, just use a MTB", like in the Iceland backpacking video. I know they're trying to compare them but it's just not the right tool for the job in a place like that. Also, if I was going to go riding somewhere like the place in this video, over rocks and through mud and streams, I'd choose the MTB for the grip, suspension and control. Gravel bikes definitely have their place but for some of these places GCN keep using them, a MTB would really be the better choice, and I'm sure they know that themselves. However, if your ride consists of a lot of road sections as well as trails such as these, then a gravel bike again becomes a good choice.
Gimme the AL version in 1X, I’ll make a couple of component changes for weight savings...and that will be my all terrain weapon, it will NOT feel outdated in about...a year or so. I could even mount my bags and go bike packing with no worries or I could take it to single track trails. I don’t want to think that DI2 derailleur been knocked down by a root or a rock...in the middle of nowhere...far away from home.
I think gravel geometry has got a long way to evolve before it stops feeling outdated within a few years of buying it. It doesn't make sense to have a high stand over on a gravel bike as you can generate a lot of compliance from a longer seatpost, I also think they will start becoming a bit slacker at the front and when we get a widely available 1x12/13 with a 9/10 tooth cog at the front 2x drive trains will be a thing of the past allowing for the development of more comfortable, grippier low resistance wider tyres to become more standard. I agree though buy a cheaper bike and get a good wheelset on it and your performance for money spent is top. Expensive groupsets and carbon don't represent good value on a gravel bike.
I absolutely LOVE my mid range $2500 Giant Revolt Advanced (2021 edition) gravel bike. I've never ridden a "High end" bike before so I can't speak to the difference, but I've got a full carbon frame, Shimano GRX 600/800 set, and its so light, agile, and comfortable. I just knew gravel bikes would be a lot of fun and I can totally recommend this bike, although I've also heard the Canyon are good also and well rated.
I recently upgraded my gravel bike from a aluminum framed Giant Revolt (a mid range bike that I have won or placed in the top 5 in gravel races on) with Shimano Tiagra 2x gearing & a 11-34 cassette to a high end gravel bike; a Pro carbon framed Specialized Diverge with Campagnolo Ekar 1x gearing & a 9-42 cassette. On the first weekend, I did back to back 35 mile mixed pavement / gravel rides and immediately recorded 4 new PRs on segments I have ridden many times in recent years. The PRs were not just a few seconds but were nearly a full minute quicker and I wasn't even at max effort! Not to mention the downhill PR of 59 mph (95 KPH for our metric friends) yet the bike was rock solid, I didn't realize I hit this speed until I looked at my Strava data after the ride. The Diverge is a smooth, effortless bike to ride and is certainly the most capable bike I have ever owned. All hail the super bike!
What if you weren't going for PRs (but still liked to go fast, sure)? And are you not stressed about damaging the frame? Overall, I'd consider carbon if it was SIGNIFICANTLY more enjoyable but leaning aluminum. Have a super bike already for the road.
@@jackwright3098 The point I was trying to make is the PRs came easily & were not a concentrated effort on my part. A super bike should make any good rider a better rider.
@@robertferguson2171 gotcha. Would you say the ride is more enjoyable? I'm thinking the carbon has to make it a little bit easier on your hands/arms when you're going through all that gravel?
@@jackwright3098 Specialized uses a steer tube damper they call "Future Shock" to absorb impacts on the rough stuff. The shock is adjustable and does a very nice job. Having owned several aluminum and carbon framed bikes over the years, IMO carbon frames are more compliant than aluminum and I would select a carbon frame over aluminum any day of the week.
@@robertferguson2171 thanks. Yeah deciding if I want to go with the spesh for the Future Shock the Canyon Grizl with suspension, or go cheap for my first gravel bike and go aluminum without suspension.
If you put RedShift ShockStop suspension stem and seatpost on the AL, then it will improve your riding significantly. That is only $350 to improve your comfort significantly for long rides like bike packing etc. I have the stem on my titanium gravel and it almost eliminate the constant shocks from small stones.
I agree with Si regarding the comfort of the di2 shifter ergonomics. Switching to di2 unexpectedly fixed my wrist/hand soreness that I had been experiencing.
Great test, good to see that there is little difference from a speed perspective. It just depends on how much you want or can spend on it, seems like the "budget" version is a more BASTERD proof version
Good video. Interesting if you'd have swapped the wheels and seatpost, 2 of the things affecting acceleration and comfort and then seen how much difference between there was between bikes
THE most important feature in any road/gravel bike is FIT. Also, unless you are getting paid to win races, save your money and get a mid range (or lower) bike. The extra 1-2 lbs you save won't impact your fun level. And you'll likely save many thousands of dollars....
I got a 2021 Norco Search XR A2 gravel. It's a lower mid ranger with GRX 400 groupset, alloy frame & carbon fork. I've upgraded the wheels, brake rotors & tyres to a tubeless setup with Hunt Gravel race alloys that only weigh 1149 grams (crazy light for alloys) & put big 700 × 50C Goodyear Connecter Ultimates. Oh & also yeah, the brakes are cable but upgraded the cable to linear cable which has made them noticeably more responsive than standard cable. Just those upgrades have turned my bike into a completely different animal that is an absolute joy to ride to work daily & an animal on gravel & light to medium off road terrain. It's no super bike but the upgrades put it well into mid range territory while still being affordable enough that I'm not scared to put it through push it & have fun with it. I know I'd be too cautious & worried about paint chips & scratches on a top end bike. I think much more fun can be had on a bike you worry less about. I'm not fussed about speed, just comfort & carefree fun is all I care about which I think mid range bikes are much better suited for for most people.
The claimed comfort of a carbon bike compared to a aluminium bike is in my opinion overrated. Probably mostly marketing. I would love to see this claim tested. I went from alu to carbon a few years ago, and didn't notice anything significant. I think seatpost, saddle, handlebars and tires make a bigger difference in terms of comfort. Maybe it is better to save money on that expensive carbon frame, and upgrade these components instead.
Dim With I agree I think it’s mainly placebo which is further encouraged by watching videos like this one. I’ve got a carbon bike and an alloy bike. Only 900 grams between them and they both feel equally comfortable and capable.
This video shows the difference between gravel riding in the UK and North America. In North America farm roads are mostly gravel, sometimes oiled, but rarely tarmac. The roads are maintained by local governments for use by slow moving vehicles, mostly pick up trucks. Most of the time you are dealing with really poorly surfaced roads instead of off road riding with a lot of roots. That is why in North America gravel racing is really a kind of road racing and they are often have proper road race distances. The big Dirty Kansa race is 200 miles long (322 KM) or so. I am much more interested in just how rough and ready the bike is because in most gravel rides in North America support cars and mechanics are few and far between. You also have to worry a lot about compliance because gravel roads are really rough and long days in the saddle of a gravel bike are exhausting.
@@mateuszQRDL not really... you can't produce such "springs" from aluminum... would need special steel (quiet heavy) or some kind of flexible plastic-compound... The special construction was made possible by using carbon... so the material is relevant.
@@HPaulModels I really want to sell my road bike and get some ridiculous deep carbon rims for the boardman. I can then just use the one bike like yourself
@Nick Naccarato - It's up to you and what you enjoy. I ride 90% road / 10% gravel/dirt trail and I average about ~100miles/week. I am still super happy with my Grail on and off road, climbing, riding flat, or doing long 100+ mile rides in a group. Aside from the 1K price difference between the Grail and the Endurace, the Grail offers the widest tire clearance. I've found that 38 (Panaracer Gravel King SS) is my favorite tire width for speed and comfort on and off road. So for me, 38s on a 1-by is how I like to ride and get the most out my environment and/or group rides with buddies. So, trust your gut. Pay for what ever you think will be the most fun to ride. At the end of the day, you just want a bike that inspires you to ride it. And let's be honest, you are picking from a win-win option. You can't go wrong with either purchase. much respect!
This vid was an eye-opener in many ways. Not so much that an expensive carbon bike gave a superior ride over a mid-range alloy bike, but that carbon is lot more comfortable over the rough stuff than alloy - which is probably why we're seeing more front suspension being added to gravel bikes - mostly alloy. Here's a video I'd like to see from GCN: a head to head between a carbon bike without suspension and an alloy bike with front suspension. Does a carbon frame obviate the need for front suspension? There is a not only the added cost of suspension forks, the added weight, but something nobody talks about: the cost of yearly suspension service, which adds up over time.
You guys do such a great job. Thank you for these videos and all the questions you address. Both of you are serious, fun, and obviously have a great sense of camaraderie. Well done!
I think it's really about comfort. Even the entry level carbon gravel bikes ride so much nicer than top end aluminum. And they are not that much more in terms of price. The Merida Silex costs 2200€. Sure, 700€ is a lot of money but the difference is night and day. If I wanted a something affordable to ride on gravel, I'd get a trecking bike. They ride smoother, are more versatile and start at lower price point.
Ollie started his carbon bike ride with gloves and finished without - presumably scene filming rather than actual ride but defo would be grateful to have them on when you slide off and put your hands down on jagged rocks
I went for the middle ground. Very happy owner of a Grail SL. Half the price of the SLX, still all the good stuff like the handle bar (yes, love it), the brilliant seat post, GRX 800... It’s a true micro reward machine (thx Si, gonna borough that one...). Just took it out on the muddy local forest trails this afternoon. Couldn’t stop smiling. Just so much fun!
My "gravel bike" is used Belgian-made carbon CX bike I picked up for 1000 pounds, or roughly the cost of one wheel on my road bike. If 80% of your riding is either on the road or on a trainer, however, it's hard to justify a top-tier gravel setup. Campagnolo Record mechanical is more than enough on a bike you'll ride one day a week.
Master marketing stroke: introducing the g-ring (specifically designed gravelbike 3rd ring at the front). For the hard grind. Looking forward to see this on the shopfloor 2022.
My commuter is a Serious Valparola Disc gravel bike, aluminium frame and fork, 8x2, 46/34, 11-32 cassette, Sora derailluer, Schwalbe G-One 35 mm tires, 10.26 kg, matt black, with firey-orange bar tape screaming "Make way! Here I come!". I paid only 595 € reduced from 795 € new. Very happy with with. Both my road and gravel bikes are aluminium because I don't want the worrying about accidental knocks and dings that can do more serious harm to carbon.
isgrimner My thinking exactly - made me go with the Big Rove ST 2016 a few years back. The latest LTD would probably be my go-to choice too if I ever needed a new bike and learned to like drop handlebars. :) Know Spider, ride steel. *thumb*
Only 10s difference though suggest they are similar and second time you take the course you are generally faster, but yes more expensive feels better. Overall great review
Ollie is my spirit animal for sure! 🤣 I've done the same thing if I came across a creek like that too. 😬 Thanks for yet another great video boys. This has became my favourite bike related channel on RUclips.
I tried both the aluminium and some low-end carbon version of the Grail during a local Canyon test day. I liked the carbon one a lot, but I'm still gravitating towards the aluminium one for my next bike. That biplane handlebar on the carbon frames is just so ridiculous. There's a portion there where you must not hold your hands or it might snap. Also you can't change the stem so if the frame is a bit too long or short, then tough luck. I like to ride a shorter stem during snowy season to be a bit more upright.
Most of the surcharge goes into superior assembly: hydraulic brakes instead of mechanicals, an 11- or 12- speed groupset (as opposed to 10), €1.000+ wheels (often carbon), as opposed to €250,- ones, and ca. 1/3 to 1/5 of the difference, some €500-1.000 - into the beautiful, somewhat lighter carbon frame over a crudely-welded aluminium one.
Your conclusion about affordability is key. I would bomb those trails on the mid-range bike and be less apt to do so with the carbon bike just because I feel like aluminum can handle it. Also, unless you’re in an actual race, regular riders, especially new ones, aren’t flying through unfamiliar terrain. So pretty much any bike with decent spec will do. I ride titanium with GRX 810 so my speeds vary.
I think more important in Gravel is how comfortable you are with crashing! Riding a carbon bike I'd definitely take less risks and would that make you slower? I think it would 😃.
Midrange. Its like cameras which I'm also into. The differences between a quality mid-level setup and the very highest quality setup in terms of price is substantial but in terms of performance is very marginal and much of it comes down to the nicer feel rather than big objective differences in the images.
In gravel, probably aluminium for the reasons cited in the video. Curious, when you prepare these comparison videos, why is the manufacture's suggested retail price not part of the comparison? Perhaps they come stock with different drive trains and brakes (head nod to Schimano- sponsored content). Thanks for the great work and Ollie, you can pedal through small streams. If you're not confident, I'm sure Si can coach you. Gravel ON!!
Is this a new thing then? I've been seeing more and more gravel bikes over the last four years while out mountain biking (didn't even know they had a name until recently). I think they're a fantastic idea.
Great video. I was looking at these two options 6 months ago and ended up going with the AL version. I was worried the reach/stack/feel of the carbon version might not be right for me since there is no stem that can be swapped out. Good to hear it has the exact same feel as the AL (minus the micro changes to the hoods). There are some other differences between the two that they don't mention: 1) gear ratios are slightly different (not in a big way though) with the AL version (GRX 400/600) having a slightly better climb range and the GRX800/810 having a slight edge for descending ratios, 2) the wheels are different (manufacturer, weight, aero, etc), & 3) the seat from the carbon version can be bought separately and added to the AL version for $250. Happy with my choice since the cost and frame material hasn't prevented me from trying singletrack rides
Before watching the episode... The only thing that limits you at all, wether on a mid or pro or cheap gravelbike, is only the tire and the power in your legs. And of course the range and choice of the cassette. It has nothing to do with the bike - how far u can go. I rode as good on a mid range alloy bike as on a expensive carbon bike. Just the reliability of more expensive components is something that comes into place after some time of usage. Sure. Now let me see what the result of this Video is.. I bet its a good video as always! Love ur work!
Mid-range. Not because of price or perceived value, but because it appeared to transcend more than just the gravel category and could be used for a number of tasks. I like the color of the superbike, but the Grail AL looked a bit like Bianchi's Celeste which I did, so I wouldn't mind the color. But the darker colored superbike is very cool.
To those looking for an affordable midrange carbon gravel build. Take a good long look at the Carbonda 696 or ICAN X gravel (they are basically identical) Both of those are chinese carbon gravel frames of some repute - and having built 3+ of each of them for various clients - and an X gravel for my wife... They are an absolutely killer deal for a good base for a budget allroad/adventure/ gravel plus etc. Build.
Have had my Grail for less than a year and I have some thoughts...it came missing some parts...which are still missing as they don't seem to have any in stock. Not big pieces mind you, but little pieces like axle covers and hole covers...annoying, but no ride ending by any means. Love the fit, love the ride. Wish I would have had more 1x options. Cockpit is a love hate....love the looks, the thumb positions work well and it seems to take a bite out of vibrations on the top bar...but I barely use that position. Also, trying to find a bag to fit it, or a bell, is very difficult. And finally, the paint is already coming off in areas where I just have a bike bag touching it. I used the tape in areas where they showed it was being attached but it looks like the paint is super thin and just rubs off super easily.
I swapped from alu CX (Cube Cross Race SL, full Ultegra, 1899€) into a carbon gravel bike (Rose Backroad GRX-GX600, 2700€). I noticed the Backroad is more compliant for bumbs but maybe more sensitive for high pitch shaking from the ground. Backroad feels and seems to be also faster in climbs. I guess it is mostly due to Backroad being 1,5kg lighter. On paved roads I didn't notice difference in my normal cruising speed but my avg speed raised slightly in mixture of flat and climbs/decents. The word I really feel discribing the Backroad is "responsive". It feels like endurance road bike (also by the geometry) but it is more compliant, versatile and funnier. Really like that bike! Added that in the Bike Vault too but haven't got in the Tech Show :D
It’s true! Around where I live in the UK there’s not that many gravel roads to ride. A typical gravel bike ride for me is a combination of quiet (tarmac) back roads and some forest paths / single tracks to join them together to keep off the main roads. These rides would be too tough for my road bike but not enjoyable on my mountain bike because of the amount of tarmac riding
In the UK we don’t really have the kinds of gravel fire roads you have in the US. Lots of canal towpaths though which are perfect gravel bike territory :)
@@MrAndybell10 Rubbish. There are vast numbers of woodland, moorland and hill paths that qualify as 'gravel' here in the UK. The National Parks are full of them, including many old railway lines converted to paths. Public footpaths and bridleways criss cross farmland, through villages, around industrial estates, reservoirs and lakes. Wonder round a country park, managed woodland or nature reserve and you'll find plenty there too. 🙄
In American gravel racing aerobars are allowed and quite commonly used. I'd say to Canyon "Put handlebars on your top end bike that can accommodate clip on aerobars if you want the most competitive racers to use it".
Considering I don't have endless piles of money give me the mid-range. This allows me to pick and choose upgrades to decrease weight and increase comfort and have money to spend on accessories and high quality bike packing gear. If I was a pro or racing at a competitive level then spending more may be worth the money, but for the majority of riders the law of diminishing returns absolutely comes into play. The other alternative is to spend a bit more and take the long road approach and get the "entry level" carbon frame bike and upgrade from there as needed.
@@Daniel-dj7fh Bike thieves barely care how much your bike costs. They're just out to take any bike that's easy to steal and sell and how much it's worth isn't as important to them as how easily they can turn a theft into cash.
@@chrisfanning5842 I don't think that's true, they wouldn't want a beater bike that wouldn't even get them the cost of a fix with a quick sale plus I remember reading that when you have multiple bikes locked up in a rack somewhere (work, college etc) it is always wise to not have the nicest bike which is often the first to be stolen. If you can only steal one bike at a time why steal a £200 bike if a £2k bike is next to it. Just stripping the £2k bike of components to sell and dumping the frame will merit far more money and much lower risk too. In the UK the most stolen bike is Carrera, they are basically incredibly common, About 1 in 5 bike shops in the UK are Halfords and they have about 20-25% of all bike sale revenue. Hence Carrera bikes are easily resold because so many of the same bikes are out there. In contrast high end bikes are quite rare and account for very few sales but that doesn't mean that they aren't a huge magnet for thieves when they spot one. That's the great thing about a beater bike that looks like crap but rides well. You can use it and enjoy it and not worry much about it but I realise for those who see their bike as a sort of status symbol like a high end car would not want such a bike. Ages ago I saw a row of bike that had toppled in a rack so were all resting against each other. One of which was carbon fibre so its not just about theft its also about general knocks and abuse that bikes get when out and about. Did the owner of the bike get the carbon fibre frame and forks scanned to make sure was not damaged internally or did they risk it? Maybe they weren't sure so sold it on so someone else took the risk with the bike unknowingly. Generally though people are sensible, they will ride something basic if there is a high risk of theft or damage and keep their higher end bikes for situations where they have more control, group rides, loop rides back to their home etc. Weekend vs weekday bikes.
@@Daniel-dj7fh get an old cheap bike for commuting if you can't guarantee your expensive bike's safety i guess? maybe a gearbox one too, less maintenance.
I think many missed the point. This clearly shows that scripted or not - sponsored or not, more cost is not the be all end all. Having two bikes from the same manufacturer and at very different price points with two riders of different levels of ability of riding in gravel worked very well. The end result was what I’d expect of the same test of any manufacturer, the better the quality of bike and its components will help to improve a rider but to a point. In this case the difference in bikes really goes to show that as much as I’d love to have CF SLX version I will be more then capable and enjoy the AL 6 even more. I’m no where near the skill level of the CF SLX so why buy it. The enjoyment of riding the AL that I’m not in fear of bumping out on the trails as opposed to getting the CF SLX and living in fear of it getting stolen or of pushing myself riding and as seen carrying in over the water is not worth the extra cost. Buy what you can comfortably afford and you will be able to relax and really enjoy getting out and riding - isn’t that the point.
the aluminium one with the handlebar of the carbon one would be a dream. I'm not big fan of carbon, it may be awesome in some aspects but it is more britle in others. What i wonder is how would you feel on each bike after say 20, 30 or 50 kilometers of riding on each one, that would tell me much more than a stopwatch in a short circuit lap
I went with good old steel for my gravel, cuz carbon can ding and I have to carry my bike upstairs through stairs so lot of dings are going to happen and aluminium has shorter lifespan plus steel is cheaper, lasts forever and amazing for bikepacking. Sure it's heavy but it's just better workout. 💪
@@cottontop99 Yeah the GCN lads generally live in a world of free, sponsored high-end products. Much like GMBN, there's little or no content on bikes that the vast majority of their subs ride. Both channels have real nice lads as presenters, but outside of the maintenance vids, they couldn't be much more disconnected from the normal rider.
@@moonshinin They ride bikes from manufacturers willing to pay them to do it. An entry level bike manufacturer probably doesn't have the advertising budget to spend on a GCN sponsored video. Shimano paid for this one, I haven't seen GRX400 on bikes under 1k and they aren't likely to pay to advertise their lower margin, lower cost parts in this way.
Unless i'm mistaken, that's the Grail AL 7.0, not the 6.0? The 6.0 comes in a slightly darker green. I have a 7.0 on order (gotta wait until March :( )
I've gone with an aluminum frame for my gravel bike as I am a roadie somewhat new to off road so it made a better starter. I also feel that I would probably take a spill or two and riding rough trails I just felt the aluminum would take a better beating especially without feeling bad about damaging a super expensive carbon frame. Aluminum feels good off road to me even though I prefer carbon on the road but I also haven't been able to compare the two. But for my money and the reasons listed, I'd probably still go aluminum off road. If money were no object then yeah, I'm getting the best there is.
As someone who owns a DH bike and a full-sus trail bike, Gravel bikes are pointless; I was doing gravel bike riding three years before gravel bikes were a thing by simply fitting 28C treaded semi-slicks to my 2015 Defy Advanced (disc) bike. Any road bike with disc brakes is 99% gravel bike by default. The point at which my Defy Advanced gave up had nothing to do with braking, frame material or groupset, it was the lack of 2.5" tyres and actual suspension to eat up bigger boulders that would (had I tried it) instantly pinch-flatted any unsuspended wheel. I enjoyed this video but the reason the carbon bike feels better than the alu bike is that it's more compliant. I'd love to see how much a budget trail bike like a Bossnut would fare - sure it'd be slower on the road section than either gravel bike but the off-road sections could just be blitzed on a full-sus and I suspect that would be enough, and more, to make up the difference. As a londoner, I have to cycle my MTBs to stations on tarmac, and they're slower but the real world isn't a race; there are traffic lights and other reasons to not be racing 100% of the time.
I bought a Genesis Fugio 20 in the spring. Steel frame, came very nice WTB 650x47 tyres I set up tubeless, and SRAM Apex 1x. £1500. It’s a lot heavier and clunkier than my Canyon SLX road bike with etap but it’s CRAZY fun for the money. And it looks stunning.
I don’t think you covered tire clearance on either...a major factor in my choice. I’m currently riding a FELT cross bike and looking at the grail primarily for the additional tire clearance. This comes in handy for events like Kanza.
Cable discs on my cross bike, no issues at all, maintenance free bar changing pads and adjustment that can be done by hand on the trail.... "cable stretch" lol....
I think this could be a start of a fun series: The Rise of the Alluminati, comparing bike brands alloy and carbon models. Allez Sprint v Tarmac, Caad13 v Supersix. I’m sure there are others. Could be great to consider which bike bests suits your needs and bank account 😂
What would you go for? A superbike, or the mid-range?
I went for a mid-range+ by account of this comparison xD steel frame so a bit heavier, but GRX600 so inbetween your groupsets and while the brakes are GRX400 the rear derailleur on a 1x set-up is GRX812. feel so much more willing to let the bike get a bit beat up with a steel frame than I would an alloy or carbon, and the Ti frame would be blissful bling but then I would worry about ruining its shiny bare metal finish.
Mid-range ... can you guys review the new Domane please... seems CANYON is always here but honestly having now been put in the position of needing to replace a stolen bike ... I going with Domane SL6 ... only rub i missing tire clearance for tires is only 38c with no fenders or at least i will need to be mindful of clearance but my biggest beef with canyon is NO fender mounts or rack space options.. they have them now but still no rack other than a seatpost clamp? ...
I cannot honestly be the only person who commutes to work and wants to have a dryish rear end when conditions are less than favorable =\
... I mean heck i might even bail on commuting with it and go mountain bike with a belt drive when my bike packing bike comes in Priority 600x .... if the maintenance stuff is as good as people say on a belt drive as degreasing and lubing a chain every two weeks on my 50 mile a day commute is anything to speak for a belt drive is way better! .. but then I am left with 'what do i use for a hillclimb bike event when i want some speed ... the N+1 struggle is REAL!
Would of course love a high end bike but can’t justify and I’d be more worried about getting it scratched.
I retro modded a 90s mtb for gravel riding. Less than £150, rides amazing and looks amazing. Bloody heavy tho!
Can you do a video on top range manual gearshift and the battery operated and the pros and cons for gravel bikes specifically please
"You have to be able to ride what you can afford to replace." Well said 👍
Owning an aluminium Trek Checkpoint Alr5 from 2018 fitted with 105, back rack for panniers and mudguards, I have to say that weight is absolutly not my main preoccupation! What is important is the handling (->do a good bikefit), the gearing (-> 105 is great in Switzerland) and the carrying capacity! I use my bike as a commuter, for bikepacking adventures and I also take it for the weekend rides in the club with the roadies! It just does everything so well (on and off road !) that I almost don't use my carbon Trek Emonda anymore on the road!
Salut!
Watching Oli on a gravel bike is like watching Bambi on ice.
True
👌🤣🤣🤣
😂
I hope they make him run at some point
@@Calum_S if they do it would be like he's wearing clown shoes.
There’s just something about gravel and off road riding that makes me NOT want to go fast. In other words, totally different mindset for me where I don’t care so much about speed, aero, or whatever. On the road, it’s a much different story.
When Si asked. If you go off road "can you faster, can you go further?" He forgot the most important question. Can Ollie ride off road?
Last week a was racing on gravel on my steel bike with roadies on alu and carbon bikes. They were able to gain some distance on-road but on offroad I was catching them easily. It's really more up to skills than technology.
😂 Something of an oversight, given his history riding anywhere without tarmac!
@@gcn just watched the video and noticed that the bikes were mudded up to the max and yet Si and Ollie both seemed to be as clean at the end of the video as they were at the beginning.
@@gcn mm vb k.l
@@gcno
The more these hosts develop "Top Gear" style chemistry, the better the channel gets. I think Si's "low blow" comment and Manon's shutting the window on Ollie (prior vid) are some if the funniest moments yet..
Hearing the camera man suppress his laughing at Olie walking across the stream made most of us feel like we're normal 😁.
Came here for this comment ;-)
I looked for a gravel bike last year and ultimately bought the Rose Backroad Ultegra DI2 instead of the Canyon Grail. The Backroad is in theory quite similar to the Grail SL, the Grail SLX is another step upwards, so one might call it not yet middle class anymore, but not yet highest.
I am living more or less in the middle between both companies in Germany and drove to both to test the bikes. The reason why I did not go for the Canyon which I originally wanted to buy was this weird hover bar design.
Canyon says it is more comfortable if you grab the upper bar while on gravel due to the increased flex. Of course with a bit less flex on the drops.
But to me that is really a stupid reason for such a design. I had a pretty bad accident on my commuter bike a few years ago, when a tractor crossed my path. He took a turn without looking onto the bike lane and I could not break fast enough because I was holding the bar ends, far away from the breaks. You do not contemplate over the fact that it was exclusively the tractor driver’s fault when you fly over his front wheel at 20 km/h while your bike remains on the other side of the wheel and then land on your head, hearing the reassuring cracking noises of your helmet. And since then there are two things I never ever did again:
1. Ride a single meter without a helmet - not even on my new commuter bike 500m on an almost deserted street to the bakery to buy some bread.
2. Put my hands in a position where I cannot reach the break levers instantly, unless the condition is perfect.
And perfect means high quality tarmac, where I can see and judge the surface for at least the next 50 m. No cycling lane with roots, no bad road with potholes, etc. Only Autobahn like perfect Tarmac. And also no motorized vehicles that might do stupid things. Otherwise I would never move my hands further than an inch away from the breaks.
If the road condition is even slightly imperfect my standard position is on the hoods. If the road gets bad - or if I am off-road where I have to expect bad conditions constantly - I am in the drops, because it offers more stability AND due to the longer lever on the breaks I have better control over the breaking power.
Call me a coward, but I would never EVER dare to ride on a gravel or forest path with my hands on the upper bar, where I could not grab the breaks within the blink of an eye. So as far as I am concerned, an invention that reduces flex on the drops but increases it on the upper bar is utterly useless and the most important reason why I did not buy an otherwise perfectly fine Canyon.
But isn't this a drop down bar issue in general? Unless you're on the hoods or drops, you can't get to the breaks. Similairly if you have flat bar and install the attachable drop ons, you can't get to the brake in time
I'm here at Australia wanting to buy a Grail AL (Don't have enough money for a CF frame) And apparently both the 6 and 7 are sold out...
@@kerbodynamicx472 that’s a different story
I would never go on that type of terrain without an MTB with front suspension
@@stephenr80 well yes. But my first XC Mountainbike …a FAT Chance Yo Eddy also had a straight fork (no damping) …and it was alright. You have to ride a bit more cautious but you get used to it soon. Bike riding isn’t always about being the fastest or against the clock… I swapped the straight fork back then mainly for a small technical issue: the headset often became lose because of those constantly transmitted vibrations.
I love my lower-mid level aluminum gravel bike (Diamondback Comp) as much and sometimes more than my high end road bike (Cannondale SuperSix high mod). And everytime I hear a large rock ping off of my down tube on my gravel bike, I'm glad I have aluminum rather than carbon
Normal bloke Ollie, makes these video accessible. Great vid. I do agree, a set of videos where Ollie learns to off road would be great and then a suitably hard challenge at the end. Dirty Kansa Ollie?
Trueee, everyone on comment teasing ollie really feel good seeing normal bloke ollie, pathetic
I'm ollie right now when it comes to road bikes
We're all know which current GCN guy would be perfect for Lasty role!
ollie! come to the us and ride Kansa
He did this race in 2019 and did pretty well: ruclips.net/video/4wHmo5-OvwQ/видео.html
I would contribute to any fund that puts Ollie on the Dirty Kanza start line.
Every time I see Si and Ollie together I just know it is going to be a good video.
i bought the Cannondale Topstone Sora for £950 earlier in the year. 1300 miles later on every British countryside surface you can image, in every British spring to autumn weather condition you can imagine, i can safely say that the bike is an absolute monster. It hasn't flinched once, it's effortless in the muck, fast on the road, and cosmetically dignified (which it, and you, should be in the countryside). Keep your money in your pocket people, you don't need to go anywhere near bikes like this... it's genuinely a waste. ps. enjoyable video
So basically the better ride quality made the carbon bike more of an upgrade for the rider who wasn't as used to off road riding. Whereas for the more experienced off road rider the carbon bike did not make so much difference.
No, that was not the conclusion. Both said the super bike provided marginal quality of life improvements
I noticed that too! Si was marginally improved by upgrading the bike while Ollie’s improvement was more pronounced.
12:05 I love that you can hear the camera man laughing while Ollie stumbles through the stream. The music pause was perfect too. Don't worry Ollie, I'm always on your side though buddy.
RE: Opinion of gravel bikes being a fad.
Gravel bikes, while obviously not as good as road bikes are on the road, are still great on the road but can also be taken on light offroad stuff where it's not so great to ride on your average 23c road bike tyres. They also have more comfortable geometry and lower gearing if you need it, and you also have loads of options for wheels and tyres.
I just got a gravel bike after having a MTB for nearly 10 years (which I still have). Since I mainly ride on roads, but sometimes also canals and gravel bike paths, it's really the perfect option for me. A MTB isn't needed for that sort of thing and are slower on the road and climbing due to tyres, riding position etc. This type of riding is very common for many people, so I really don't think they'll go away. I think they will only get more popular. I can understand why people think it's a fad, but imo it won't be.
With that said, I do see some videos on here promoting them where I just think "that looks completely out of its depth and out of place on that terrain, just use a MTB", like in the Iceland backpacking video. I know they're trying to compare them but it's just not the right tool for the job in a place like that. Also, if I was going to go riding somewhere like the place in this video, over rocks and through mud and streams, I'd choose the MTB for the grip, suspension and control. Gravel bikes definitely have their place but for some of these places GCN keep using them, a MTB would really be the better choice, and I'm sure they know that themselves. However, if your ride consists of a lot of road sections as well as trails such as these, then a gravel bike again becomes a good choice.
Some gravel bikes have suspension like specialized FutureShock in the head tube. Thoughts on that? Seems like a nice mix.
Man, I forgot how good GCN is at making cinematics! Great vid and comparison as always!
Thanks! That means a lot to us as the team work really hard.
When it comes to bike weight I always think: Let me first get rid of my 10Kg+ overweight 😀
ha! and a steel frame is very compliant, wish they tested that against the carbon bike!
@@andrewnorris5415 I don't have overweight so it doesn't apply to me!
Easier and more expensive to shave a few grams off the bike
some people want to enjoy the bike no to lose weight in that case it doesn't apply
Great vid and edit, but you've got to get the boys at GMBN to teach Ollie some off road skills. He'll love it!
Not sure they will though!
@@gcn Neil taught Hank....!
Sometimes I like to turn my bib cycling shorts inside out so I look like I have the arse of a Baboon while I cycle.
I approve of this message
Oh wow never thought of this lmao 😂😂
It would definitely improve visibility on the road,
And it would be a good way of asserting dominance over slower riders
😆😆😆
@@ivanallenenns you mean seduce slower riders?
Gimme the AL version in 1X, I’ll make a couple of component changes for weight savings...and that will be my all terrain weapon, it will NOT feel outdated in about...a year or so. I could even mount my bags and go bike packing with no worries or I could take it to single track trails. I don’t want to think that DI2 derailleur been knocked down by a root or a rock...in the middle of nowhere...far away from home.
Is 1x a better endurance / long ride setup?
I think gravel geometry has got a long way to evolve before it stops feeling outdated within a few years of buying it. It doesn't make sense to have a high stand over on a gravel bike as you can generate a lot of compliance from a longer seatpost, I also think they will start becoming a bit slacker at the front and when we get a widely available 1x12/13 with a 9/10 tooth cog at the front 2x drive trains will be a thing of the past allowing for the development of more comfortable, grippier low resistance wider tyres to become more standard. I agree though buy a cheaper bike and get a good wheelset on it and your performance for money spent is top. Expensive groupsets and carbon don't represent good value on a gravel bike.
The easiest way for most of us to lose a few kilo is by doing a little more exercise! :-)
Bikepacking is an excellent point. The double decker handlebars on the Grail CF are totally incompatible with handlebar bags.
@@Zzzzzzzzzzzzjjjj What kind of drivetrain do you have - what rear mech accommodates 46t?
I absolutely LOVE my mid range $2500 Giant Revolt Advanced (2021 edition) gravel bike. I've never ridden a "High end" bike before so I can't speak to the difference, but I've got a full carbon frame, Shimano GRX 600/800 set, and its so light, agile, and comfortable. I just knew gravel bikes would be a lot of fun and I can totally recommend this bike, although I've also heard the Canyon are good also and well rated.
I recently upgraded my gravel bike from a aluminum framed Giant Revolt (a mid range bike that I have won or placed in the top 5 in gravel races on) with Shimano Tiagra 2x gearing & a 11-34 cassette to a high end gravel bike; a Pro carbon framed Specialized Diverge with Campagnolo Ekar 1x gearing & a 9-42 cassette. On the first weekend, I did back to back 35 mile mixed pavement / gravel rides and immediately recorded 4 new PRs on segments I have ridden many times in recent years. The PRs were not just a few seconds but were nearly a full minute quicker and I wasn't even at max effort! Not to mention the downhill PR of 59 mph (95 KPH for our metric friends) yet the bike was rock solid, I didn't realize I hit this speed until I looked at my Strava data after the ride. The Diverge is a smooth, effortless bike to ride and is certainly the most capable bike I have ever owned. All hail the super bike!
What if you weren't going for PRs (but still liked to go fast, sure)? And are you not stressed about damaging the frame? Overall, I'd consider carbon if it was SIGNIFICANTLY more enjoyable but leaning aluminum. Have a super bike already for the road.
@@jackwright3098 The point I was trying to make is the PRs came easily & were not a concentrated effort on my part. A super bike should make any good rider a better rider.
@@robertferguson2171 gotcha. Would you say the ride is more enjoyable? I'm thinking the carbon has to make it a little bit easier on your hands/arms when you're going through all that gravel?
@@jackwright3098 Specialized uses a steer tube damper they call "Future Shock" to absorb impacts on the rough stuff. The shock is adjustable and does a very nice job. Having owned several aluminum and carbon framed bikes over the years, IMO carbon frames are more compliant than aluminum and I would select a carbon frame over aluminum any day of the week.
@@robertferguson2171 thanks. Yeah deciding if I want to go with the spesh for the Future Shock the Canyon Grizl with suspension, or go cheap for my first gravel bike and go aluminum without suspension.
If you put RedShift ShockStop suspension stem and seatpost on the AL, then it will improve your riding significantly. That is only $350 to improve your comfort significantly for long rides like bike packing etc. I have the stem on my titanium gravel and it almost eliminate the constant shocks from small stones.
Nope. The Grail has a 1 1/4" steerer. Can't fit a normal stem. Screw Canyon.
I agree with Si regarding the comfort of the di2 shifter ergonomics. Switching to di2 unexpectedly fixed my wrist/hand soreness that I had been experiencing.
The compliance-engineered bars and seatpost add the majority of the ‘Magic Carpet ride’, no?
Good point; put both on the less-expensive bike and see if it's transformed.
Great to see Dr. Bridgewood and Si working together! Fabulous video Team!
Great test, good to see that there is little difference from a speed perspective. It just depends on how much you want or can spend on it, seems like the "budget" version is a more BASTERD proof version
Finally, 2 of my favourite bikes where i got a dilemmas of which of them I will pick . GREAT VIDEO!
Good video. Interesting if you'd have swapped the wheels and seatpost, 2 of the things affecting acceleration and comfort and then seen how much difference between there was between bikes
THE most important feature in any road/gravel bike is FIT. Also, unless you are getting paid to win races, save your money and get a mid range (or lower) bike. The extra 1-2 lbs you save won't impact your fun level. And you'll likely save many thousands of dollars....
I got a 2021 Norco Search XR A2 gravel. It's a lower mid ranger with GRX 400 groupset, alloy frame & carbon fork. I've upgraded the wheels, brake rotors & tyres to a tubeless setup with Hunt Gravel race alloys that only weigh 1149 grams (crazy light for alloys) & put big 700 × 50C Goodyear Connecter Ultimates. Oh & also yeah, the brakes are cable but upgraded the cable to linear cable which has made them noticeably more responsive than standard cable. Just those upgrades have turned my bike into a completely different animal that is an absolute joy to ride to work daily & an animal on gravel & light to medium off road terrain. It's no super bike but the upgrades put it well into mid range territory while still being affordable enough that I'm not scared to put it through push it & have fun with it. I know I'd be too cautious & worried about paint chips & scratches on a top end bike. I think much more fun can be had on a bike you worry less about. I'm not fussed about speed, just comfort & carefree fun is all I care about which I think mid range bikes are much better suited for for most people.
The claimed comfort of a carbon bike compared to a aluminium bike is in my opinion overrated. Probably mostly marketing. I would love to see this claim tested.
I went from alu to carbon a few years ago, and didn't notice anything significant. I think seatpost, saddle, handlebars and tires make a bigger difference in terms of comfort. Maybe it is better to save money on that expensive carbon frame, and upgrade these components instead.
Dim With I agree I think it’s mainly placebo which is further encouraged by watching videos like this one.
I’ve got a carbon bike and an alloy bike. Only 900 grams between them and they both feel equally comfortable and capable.
@@michaelb9664 wind speed affects the carbon more, since its lighter
The deflecting seatpost can be put in the alloy bike. That will make it more comfortable too.
@@Zzzzzzzzzzzzjjjj Thanks, I will check it out!
@@luukrutten1295 Yes, all the flex in that seatpost must make it comfortable. A bit expensive upgrade though.
This video shows the difference between gravel riding in the UK and North America. In North America farm roads are mostly gravel, sometimes oiled, but rarely tarmac. The roads are maintained by local governments for use by slow moving vehicles, mostly pick up trucks. Most of the time you are dealing with really poorly surfaced roads instead of off road riding with a lot of roots. That is why in North America gravel racing is really a kind of road racing and they are often have proper road race distances. The big Dirty Kansa race is 200 miles long (322 KM) or so. I am much more interested in just how rough and ready the bike is because in most gravel rides in North America support cars and mechanics are few and far between. You also have to worry a lot about compliance because gravel roads are really rough and long days in the saddle of a gravel bike are exhausting.
Great comparison, a nice mix of tech and practical info. Love the video quality and Brit humour, as always!
Presumably you could get a lot of the comfort advantage by upgrading the cheaper bike with a carbon seat post?
Also, the compliance of that seat post has nothing to do with the material it's made of, but its construction.
The cheaper bike has a carbon seat post
@@mateuszQRDL not really... you can't produce such "springs" from aluminum... would need special steel (quiet heavy) or some kind of flexible plastic-compound...
The special construction was made possible by using carbon... so the material is relevant.
@@ThorDyrden Ah, fair enough. Makes sense.
@@ThorDyrden can't aluminium be designed to flex like on airplane? So why not on a seat post?
It’s an adventure. Don’t care about going faster. As long as i can go through the same course.
Still, thanks for the vid guys
I got a second hand boardman cx for £250 of ebay. Quickly become my go to bike for a bit of fun.
I own one too. My commuter, my off roader, my club runner, my favourite (and cheapest) of the three bikes I own!
I used to have one too, loved it, just wish I never got rid of it 😔
@@HPaulModels I really want to sell my road bike and get some ridiculous deep carbon rims for the boardman. I can then just use the one bike like yourself
I have the Grail 7.0 AL SL SRAM 1x and it’s a blast on road and on gravel. It surely is versatile.
I plan on doing 80% paved bike path. Should I be looking into the canyon endurance instead you think?
@Nick Naccarato - It's up to you and what you enjoy. I ride 90% road / 10% gravel/dirt trail and I average about ~100miles/week. I am still super happy with my Grail on and off road, climbing, riding flat, or doing long 100+ mile rides in a group. Aside from the 1K price difference between the Grail and the Endurace, the Grail offers the widest tire clearance. I've found that 38 (Panaracer Gravel King SS) is my favorite tire width for speed and comfort on and off road. So for me, 38s on a 1-by is how I like to ride and get the most out my environment and/or group rides with buddies. So, trust your gut. Pay for what ever you think will be the most fun to ride. At the end of the day, you just want a bike that inspires you to ride it. And let's be honest, you are picking from a win-win option. You can't go wrong with either purchase. much respect!
Love the subtle laugh of the cameraman in the background
This vid was an eye-opener in many ways. Not so much that an expensive carbon bike gave a superior ride over a mid-range alloy bike, but that carbon is lot more comfortable over the rough stuff than alloy - which is probably why we're seeing more front suspension being added to gravel bikes - mostly alloy. Here's a video I'd like to see from GCN: a head to head between a carbon bike without suspension and an alloy bike with front suspension. Does a carbon frame obviate the need for front suspension? There is a not only the added cost of suspension forks, the added weight, but something nobody talks about: the cost of yearly suspension service, which adds up over time.
I actually ordered the grail 6 back in June....Still waiting for it to arrive 😂 but it was good to see a more in depth video specifically about it!
Damn, that's a long wait. 😣
I have one. Took it out today, you made a good decision im super happy with mine.
You guys do such a great job. Thank you for these videos and all the questions you address. Both of you are serious, fun, and obviously have a great sense of camaraderie. Well done!
I think it's really about comfort. Even the entry level carbon gravel bikes ride so much nicer than top end aluminum. And they are not that much more in terms of price. The Merida Silex costs 2200€. Sure, 700€ is a lot of money but the difference is night and day.
If I wanted a something affordable to ride on gravel, I'd get a trecking bike. They ride smoother, are more versatile and start at lower price point.
Imagine my shock, based on the title of this being gravel bikes, to see those two standing there at the beginning vs. J Pow.
At the end of the day the main difference is speed but very small the main deciding factor would be your budget
Ollie started his carbon bike ride with gloves and finished without - presumably scene filming rather than actual ride but defo would be grateful to have them on when you slide off and put your hands down on jagged rocks
I went for the middle ground. Very happy owner of a Grail SL. Half the price of the SLX, still all the good stuff like the handle bar (yes, love it), the brilliant seat post, GRX 800...
It’s a true micro reward machine (thx Si, gonna borough that one...). Just took it out on the muddy local forest trails this afternoon. Couldn’t stop smiling. Just so much fun!
The music track in this was perfect for the video.
I love gcn and all presenters … Great people 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
My "gravel bike" is used Belgian-made carbon CX bike I picked up for 1000 pounds, or roughly the cost of one wheel on my road bike. If 80% of your riding is either on the road or on a trainer, however, it's hard to justify a top-tier gravel setup. Campagnolo Record mechanical is more than enough on a bike you'll ride one day a week.
Master marketing stroke: introducing the g-ring (specifically designed gravelbike 3rd ring at the front). For the hard grind. Looking forward to see this on the shopfloor 2022.
The two best presenters and a great bit of mixed surface biking. Bring a picnic next time and It'll be like my days off.
My commuter is a Serious Valparola Disc gravel bike, aluminium frame and fork, 8x2, 46/34, 11-32 cassette, Sora derailluer, Schwalbe G-One 35 mm tires, 10.26 kg, matt black, with firey-orange bar tape screaming "Make way! Here I come!". I paid only 595 € reduced from 795 € new. Very happy with with. Both my road and gravel bikes are aluminium because I don't want the worrying about accidental knocks and dings that can do more serious harm to carbon.
I wanted steel over carbon and aluminum. So, I chose a '21 Kona Rove LTD. It probably falls between these two in price. I like it so far.
isgrimner My thinking exactly - made me go with the Big Rove ST 2016 a few years back. The latest LTD would probably be my go-to choice too if I ever needed a new bike and learned to like drop handlebars. :) Know Spider, ride steel. *thumb*
Only 10s difference though suggest they are similar and second time you take the course you are generally faster, but yes more expensive feels better. Overall great review
i love the pun Opportunity " CanYOUN go further on budget gravel bike?/"
Ollie is my spirit animal for sure! 🤣 I've done the same thing if I came across a creek like that too. 😬 Thanks for yet another great video boys. This has became my favourite bike related channel on RUclips.
Thanks for watching! Great to hear you enjoyed it :)
I tried both the aluminium and some low-end carbon version of the Grail during a local Canyon test day. I liked the carbon one a lot, but I'm still gravitating towards the aluminium one for my next bike. That biplane handlebar on the carbon frames is just so ridiculous. There's a portion there where you must not hold your hands or it might snap. Also you can't change the stem so if the frame is a bit too long or short, then tough luck. I like to ride a shorter stem during snowy season to be a bit more upright.
Another great video from the Gravel Cycling Network
Most of the surcharge goes into superior assembly: hydraulic brakes instead of mechanicals, an 11- or 12- speed groupset (as opposed to 10), €1.000+ wheels (often carbon), as opposed to €250,- ones, and ca. 1/3 to 1/5 of the difference, some €500-1.000 - into the beautiful, somewhat lighter carbon frame over a crudely-welded aluminium one.
Ollie swearing on the technical path is the funniest thing I've seen on GCN
Your conclusion about affordability is key. I would bomb those trails on the mid-range bike and be less apt to do so with the carbon bike just because I feel like aluminum can handle it. Also, unless you’re in an actual race, regular riders, especially new ones, aren’t flying through unfamiliar terrain. So pretty much any bike with decent spec will do. I ride titanium with GRX 810 so my speeds vary.
I think more important in Gravel is how comfortable you are with crashing! Riding a carbon bike I'd definitely take less risks and would that make you slower? I think it would 😃.
Midrange. Its like cameras which I'm also into. The differences between a quality mid-level setup and the very highest quality setup in terms of price is substantial but in terms of performance is very marginal and much of it comes down to the nicer feel rather than big objective differences in the images.
Long live Canyon. Got myself a 2019 Roadlite 7.0
In gravel, probably aluminium for the reasons cited in the video. Curious, when you prepare these comparison videos, why is the manufacture's suggested retail price not part of the comparison? Perhaps they come stock with different drive trains and brakes (head nod to Schimano- sponsored content). Thanks for the great work and Ollie, you can pedal through small streams. If you're not confident, I'm sure Si can coach you. Gravel ON!!
Good to see Ollie has fully learned the cross bike carrying methods ...
The green color is fantastic, therefore it wins! Color is hightly underrated.
Is this a new thing then? I've been seeing more and more gravel bikes over the last four years while out mountain biking (didn't even know they had a name until recently). I think they're a fantastic idea.
It's not entirely new, but it's definitely growing in popularity!
Great video. I was looking at these two options 6 months ago and ended up going with the AL version. I was worried the reach/stack/feel of the carbon version might not be right for me since there is no stem that can be swapped out. Good to hear it has the exact same feel as the AL (minus the micro changes to the hoods). There are some other differences between the two that they don't mention: 1) gear ratios are slightly different (not in a big way though) with the AL version (GRX 400/600) having a slightly better climb range and the GRX800/810 having a slight edge for descending ratios, 2) the wheels are different (manufacturer, weight, aero, etc), & 3) the seat from the carbon version can be bought separately and added to the AL version for $250. Happy with my choice since the cost and frame material hasn't prevented me from trying singletrack rides
Before watching the episode... The only thing that limits you at all, wether on a mid or pro or cheap gravelbike, is only the tire and the power in your legs. And of course the range and choice of the cassette. It has nothing to do with the bike - how far u can go. I rode as good on a mid range alloy bike as on a expensive carbon bike. Just the reliability of more expensive components is something that comes into place after some time of usage. Sure. Now let me see what the result of this Video is.. I bet its a good video as always! Love ur work!
Mid-range. Not because of price or perceived value, but because it appeared to transcend more than just the gravel category and could be used for a number of tasks. I like the color of the superbike, but the Grail AL looked a bit like Bianchi's Celeste which I did, so I wouldn't mind the color. But the darker colored superbike is very cool.
To those looking for an affordable midrange carbon gravel build.
Take a good long look at the Carbonda 696 or ICAN X gravel (they are basically identical)
Both of those are chinese carbon gravel frames of some repute - and having built 3+ of each of them for various clients - and an X gravel for my wife...
They are an absolutely killer deal for a good base for a budget allroad/adventure/ gravel plus etc. Build.
Ah I'm always happy when it's a Si/Ollie combo
Fantastic Editing!
Have had my Grail for less than a year and I have some thoughts...it came missing some parts...which are still missing as they don't seem to have any in stock. Not big pieces mind you, but little pieces like axle covers and hole covers...annoying, but no ride ending by any means. Love the fit, love the ride. Wish I would have had more 1x options. Cockpit is a love hate....love the looks, the thumb positions work well and it seems to take a bite out of vibrations on the top bar...but I barely use that position. Also, trying to find a bag to fit it, or a bell, is very difficult. And finally, the paint is already coming off in areas where I just have a bike bag touching it. I used the tape in areas where they showed it was being attached but it looks like the paint is super thin and just rubs off super easily.
I swapped from alu CX (Cube Cross Race SL, full Ultegra, 1899€) into a carbon gravel bike (Rose Backroad GRX-GX600, 2700€). I noticed the Backroad is more compliant for bumbs but maybe more sensitive for high pitch shaking from the ground. Backroad feels and seems to be also faster in climbs. I guess it is mostly due to Backroad being 1,5kg lighter. On paved roads I didn't notice difference in my normal cruising speed but my avg speed raised slightly in mixture of flat and climbs/decents. The word I really feel discribing the Backroad is "responsive". It feels like endurance road bike (also by the geometry) but it is more compliant, versatile and funnier. Really like that bike! Added that in the Bike Vault too but haven't got in the Tech Show :D
GCN presentors, all of them are very entertaining and very fun to watch...🚴🚴🚴🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
I like how gravel bikes in Europe are used almost exclusively for forest paths instead of gravel roads
It’s true! Around where I live in the UK there’s not that many gravel roads to ride. A typical gravel bike ride for me is a combination of quiet (tarmac) back roads and some forest paths / single tracks to join them together to keep off the main roads. These rides would be too tough for my road bike but not enjoyable on my mountain bike because of the amount of tarmac riding
The closet we get is canal tow paths.
In the UK we don’t really have the kinds of gravel fire roads you have in the US. Lots of canal towpaths though which are perfect gravel bike territory :)
Plenty of forresty gravel roads in Wales
@@MrAndybell10 Rubbish. There are vast numbers of woodland, moorland and hill paths that qualify as 'gravel' here in the UK. The National Parks are full of them, including many old railway lines converted to paths. Public footpaths and bridleways criss cross farmland, through villages, around industrial estates, reservoirs and lakes. Wonder round a country park, managed woodland or nature reserve and you'll find plenty there too. 🙄
In American gravel racing aerobars are allowed and quite commonly used. I'd say to Canyon "Put handlebars on your top end bike that can accommodate clip on aerobars if you want the most competitive racers to use it".
Considering I don't have endless piles of money give me the mid-range. This allows me to pick and choose upgrades to decrease weight and increase comfort and have money to spend on accessories and high quality bike packing gear. If I was a pro or racing at a competitive level then spending more may be worth the money, but for the majority of riders the law of diminishing returns absolutely comes into play. The other alternative is to spend a bit more and take the long road approach and get the "entry level" carbon frame bike and upgrade from there as needed.
i have a 250€ bike and im scared of damadging it or getting it stolen
keep it in the garage then ;-)
@@zyghom i mean generally when riding or locking it up somehwere for a stop
@@Daniel-dj7fh Bike thieves barely care how much your bike costs. They're just out to take any bike that's easy to steal and sell and how much it's worth isn't as important to them as how easily they can turn a theft into cash.
@@chrisfanning5842 I don't think that's true, they wouldn't want a beater bike that wouldn't even get them the cost of a fix with a quick sale plus I remember reading that when you have multiple bikes locked up in a rack somewhere (work, college etc) it is always wise to not have the nicest bike which is often the first to be stolen. If you can only steal one bike at a time why steal a £200 bike if a £2k bike is next to it. Just stripping the £2k bike of components to sell and dumping the frame will merit far more money and much lower risk too. In the UK the most stolen bike is Carrera, they are basically incredibly common, About 1 in 5 bike shops in the UK are Halfords and they have about 20-25% of all bike sale revenue. Hence Carrera bikes are easily resold because so many of the same bikes are out there. In contrast high end bikes are quite rare and account for very few sales but that doesn't mean that they aren't a huge magnet for thieves when they spot one. That's the great thing about a beater bike that looks like crap but rides well. You can use it and enjoy it and not worry much about it but I realise for those who see their bike as a sort of status symbol like a high end car would not want such a bike. Ages ago I saw a row of bike that had toppled in a rack so were all resting against each other. One of which was carbon fibre so its not just about theft its also about general knocks and abuse that bikes get when out and about. Did the owner of the bike get the carbon fibre frame and forks scanned to make sure was not damaged internally or did they risk it? Maybe they weren't sure so sold it on so someone else took the risk with the bike unknowingly.
Generally though people are sensible, they will ride something basic if there is a high risk of theft or damage and keep their higher end bikes for situations where they have more control, group rides, loop rides back to their home etc. Weekend vs weekday bikes.
@@Daniel-dj7fh get an old cheap bike for commuting if you can't guarantee your expensive bike's safety i guess? maybe a gearbox one too, less maintenance.
I think many missed the point. This clearly shows that scripted or not - sponsored or not, more cost is not the be all end all. Having two
bikes from the same manufacturer and at very different price points with two riders of different levels of ability of riding in gravel worked very well. The end result was what I’d expect of the same test of any manufacturer, the better the quality of bike and its components will help to improve a rider but to a point. In this case the difference in bikes really goes to show that as much as I’d love to have CF SLX version I will be more then capable and enjoy the AL 6 even more. I’m no where near the skill level of the CF SLX so why buy it. The enjoyment of riding the AL that I’m not in fear of bumping out on the trails as opposed to getting the CF SLX and living in fear of it getting stolen or of pushing myself riding and as seen carrying in over the water is not worth the extra cost. Buy what you can comfortably afford and you will be able to relax and really enjoy getting out and riding - isn’t that the point.
the aluminium one with the handlebar of the carbon one would be a dream. I'm not big fan of carbon, it may be awesome in some aspects but it is more britle in others.
What i wonder is how would you feel on each bike after say 20, 30 or 50 kilometers of riding on each one, that would tell me much more than a stopwatch in a short circuit lap
I went with good old steel for my gravel, cuz carbon can ding and I have to carry my bike upstairs through stairs so lot of dings are going to happen and aluminium has shorter lifespan plus steel is cheaper, lasts forever and amazing for bikepacking. Sure it's heavy but it's just better workout. 💪
Ok... Well...
The Grail AL 6 costs 1500 €
The Grail CF SLX 8 Di2 costs 4500 €
Easy choice...
£1500 classed as a midrange bike 😂🤣
#realworld?
My thoughts exactly!
I'd rather the AL any day, and save the money to buy something else.
@@cottontop99 Yeah the GCN lads generally live in a world of free, sponsored high-end products. Much like GMBN, there's little or no content on bikes that the vast majority of their subs ride. Both channels have real nice lads as presenters, but outside of the maintenance vids, they couldn't be much more disconnected from the normal rider.
@@moonshinin They ride bikes from manufacturers willing to pay them to do it. An entry level bike manufacturer probably doesn't have the advertising budget to spend on a GCN sponsored video. Shimano paid for this one, I haven't seen GRX400 on bikes under 1k and they aren't likely to pay to advertise their lower margin, lower cost parts in this way.
@@davidrostron7224 Not all content needs to be sponsored. Sponsored content is basically an advert, with no criticism whatsoever.
The feeling difference is probably about 90% due to the Grail CF's leaf sprint like seat post.
Unless i'm mistaken, that's the Grail AL 7.0, not the 6.0? The 6.0 comes in a slightly darker green. I have a 7.0 on order (gotta wait until March :( )
I've gone with an aluminum frame for my gravel bike as I am a roadie somewhat new to off road so it made a better starter. I also feel that I would probably take a spill or two and riding rough trails I just felt the aluminum would take a better beating especially without feeling bad about damaging a super expensive carbon frame. Aluminum feels good off road to me even though I prefer carbon on the road but I also haven't been able to compare the two. But for my money and the reasons listed, I'd probably still go aluminum off road. If money were no object then yeah, I'm getting the best there is.
Not Really much in it to make you want a super bike ..but good vid guys
I like the look of the green one better as well. Wonder what it would be like with that other carbon seat-post that flexes
As someone who owns a DH bike and a full-sus trail bike, Gravel bikes are pointless; I was doing gravel bike riding three years before gravel bikes were a thing by simply fitting 28C treaded semi-slicks to my 2015 Defy Advanced (disc) bike. Any road bike with disc brakes is 99% gravel bike by default. The point at which my Defy Advanced gave up had nothing to do with braking, frame material or groupset, it was the lack of 2.5" tyres and actual suspension to eat up bigger boulders that would (had I tried it) instantly pinch-flatted any unsuspended wheel.
I enjoyed this video but the reason the carbon bike feels better than the alu bike is that it's more compliant. I'd love to see how much a budget trail bike like a Bossnut would fare - sure it'd be slower on the road section than either gravel bike but the off-road sections could just be blitzed on a full-sus and I suspect that would be enough, and more, to make up the difference. As a londoner, I have to cycle my MTBs to stations on tarmac, and they're slower but the real world isn't a race; there are traffic lights and other reasons to not be racing 100% of the time.
I bought a Genesis Fugio 20 in the spring. Steel frame, came very nice WTB 650x47 tyres I set up tubeless, and SRAM Apex 1x. £1500. It’s a lot heavier and clunkier than my Canyon SLX road bike with etap but it’s CRAZY fun for the money. And it looks stunning.
If your weight starts with a 2, you don't need CF or anything past 105.
What if you're 6'5"?
I don’t think you covered tire clearance on either...a major factor in my choice. I’m currently riding a FELT cross bike and looking at the grail primarily for the additional tire clearance. This comes in handy for events like Kanza.
You can hear the camera man laughing at Ollie at 12:06! 😂 I don’t know if I could have done it either!
Cable discs on my cross bike, no issues at all, maintenance free bar changing pads and adjustment that can be done by hand on the trail.... "cable stretch" lol....
@2:54 surely Ollie, a man from Yorkshire, can't be afraid of mud and hedges! 😂
He seems a little hedge-adverse.
@@kimberlystewart8980 I'd say he's hedging his bets as usual. 😆
@@ViveSemelBeneVivere At least he doesn't look like Sonic the Hedgehog while doing it!
I think this could be a start of a fun series: The Rise of the Alluminati, comparing bike brands alloy and carbon models. Allez Sprint v Tarmac, Caad13 v Supersix. I’m sure there are others. Could be great to consider which bike bests suits your needs and bank account 😂
it's a great idea! However, none of those other brands sponsor GCN, so I doubt we'll ever see them.