It looks like you sell an alternative to this product called Volvo Poly Subframe Mount Insert Set - Pro Parts Sweden PPS-61430104PU for $42. Very good price. I don't think there a better price anywhere else. You guys selling Volvo parts makes owning and working on these cars so much easier.
You can replace these while on the car WITHOUT dropping the sub-frame, I've done it twice on the V70, took about 15 minutes a corner and used ZERO heat/torch, once for factory rubber bushings and then delrin bushings the second time. IMHO if you want to use these PU bushings and want tighter steering and feedback just go with the delrin bushings.
I’m about to replace my subframe bushings and add some inserts: so it’s nice that you provided the torque specs. With new bushings and inserts I expect a pretty big difference since these are the original 21 year old bushings still.
Update for anyone that is curious. Replacing them and putting the inserts in significantly stiffened the chassis feel in the front. Bumps are a lot more solid now but still smooth. In corners it no longer has that dipping feeling If doing a fast sweeper. Feels like it’s a lot more level and I actually can go faster around corners than before. Steering feel didn’t change as much as I thought it would as on center steering is still a bit vague but I do have a pretty thick sidewall. But steering mid corner is far more predictable and requires less adjustments mid corner. Overall I’m loving the car. With everything done to it. It feels like a modern luxury sports sedan but with more steering feel. New springs are a must for anyone wanting to regain some comfort and stability. Night and day difference. More of a difference then changing the shocks (which to be fair were not blown but definitely worn in the front)
Thanks for the update, Rex. That's *exactly* what I've been looking for, a before & after opinion with a little depth. And after you've lived with it a year and you don't have anything bad to report, I will absolutely be installing them next weekend!
@@gavinvalentino1313 so far i've had no issues. i used a generous amount of the grease supplied to make sure there would be no rubber on poly rubbing to cause any squeaking. you can go for full poly subframe mounts by delrin if you want to make it handle the best possible. i went with a new oem style bushing with the insert because i did not want to make it too stiff because i do go offroad with it. its been another year now (so about 2 years total) and still no issues and still feels more planted in the front suspension.
Great video as always! Just a request. Could you provide torque specs in Nm as well in these videos? It makes it easier for us across the pond. Thanks again!
How is Americans feel with the service manual, I'm going to be buying a digital torque wrench because I'm sick and tired of converting from n•m to FT-lbs
It would be great if you would tell the equalent value of ft/lb in Nm so we (not from the US/not from imperial measurement based countries) would understand it too. Apart from this, keep up with these videos because they are bang-on!
Hi all I installed Subframe bushing inserts on my 2002 Volvo V70 2.4 Non Turbo in 2022 and i bought them off Amazon and they were Terrible and i ended up removing them. They used to creek and squek and the car was embarrassing to Drive as when i was manovering the car in the Car park on a Full lock they were really creeking and you could hear it from outside the car so in the end i removed the subframe bushing inserts and they were not easy to remove the way i got them out was i pulled a corner of the insertband i put a thick screwdriver through and i rocked the instlert out the bush and once i got the inserts out that git rid of the creeking but i don't know what powerflex inserts are like but the ones off Amazon were Terrible But that is my own experience with the inserts Take care
wouldn't it make more sense to brace the subframe corner you're working on BEFORE removing the bolt - this way the subframe doesn't shift/drop, yet you still have access once you remove the bolt/plate to push in the insert.. then replace in the new bolt/plate? nothing has moved and the work gets done. no alignment necessary.
A guy named Peppermint makes Volvo diy videos, and he has an easy way to remove the entire bushing, if you need to go all the way on this area of the car.
Fuck yeah u guys finally stock some!! I’ve been wanting to get some for a while, but refrained as I don’t like buying things from ipd If I can get it from fcp bc of the warranty and honestly I like your company better. Now I can get these inserts at arguably a better quality than the ipd ones, for a lower cost, and they’ll be covered for life lol. Sorry ipd but all u offer is no sales tax, and awful response times
I need your opinion regarding if this Subframe Bushing Insert kit will help solve some of the bad vibration I have in the front seats and steering wheel even I replaced all 5 motor mounts with new ones. Vibration happens only when car is not moving in any gear even in neutral--when is moving vibration disappear
Hey, i am having the same effects as you. I replaced all 5 motor mounts on my MY07 V70II D5 with Lemförder ones in April 2023 and since then i get a lot more vibration inside the car when idling. Even worse when i step on the brake pedal. I guess the stiffer new mounts transmit the heavy D5 vibrations wayyyy better. LOL
Could be the Crankshaft pulley. I had the same problem replaced every mount including the control arms. Then i saw the CS pulley had a little wobble. Check all your pulleys and use a slow motion video to help you see it better if there is play in all those pulleys.
Can this be done on ramps. front and rear at a time. I dont see why the suspension being compressed would affect this install. I really dont want to put my buddies volvo on jack stands.
See the video on my channel, I used the Volvo tool. Made a hard job easy, and still available. Good for front and rear subframe bushings on all P2 and P80 models including yours.
@@marek19 I assure you it is for bushings of the front and rear subframes. If you mean to press out the other bushings of the rear suspension arms, I would suggest an extended length balljoint press kit.
alcraig1 it is not the same because when doing the 120 degree you are actually stretching the bolt and it’s not accurate to use a torque number when stretching the bolt. It’s also why you shouldn’t reused torque to yield bolts (ones that are stretched when installed)
TTY fasteners undergo plastic deformation during the final (angular) stage of tightening. This gives them an increased clamping force that they will never have again if reused.
Depends on how the old bushings are worn. If the whole subframe is offset a bit due to uneven wear, and the alignment is adjusted for that, then yeah it might make a difference.
Is it possible to do this on a Volvo XC70 P3 frame I have 310000 km but if I can make it better handling I would like too buy this for sure ...thanks good video
VIDA has all the factory torque specs (it's the factory software after all). You can grab it from volvodiag.com as a ready-to-run virtual machine image. Very useful to have if you're doing your own work on your car. Will also interface with a DiCE unit for diagnostics and for resetting & 'coding' modules.
@@xyphur Yep, I know now. When I asked the question, I couldn't find it. But I have dumped my Volvo, because it was extremely expensive and wasn't worth it anymore.
Can anyone tell me if these worn out subframe bushings are the reason the car makes a cluncking sound while shifting? I have a v70n 2.4T manual wich is in great condition, the previous owner took great care of it but it makes a clunking sound while shifting. I already replaced the upper engine mount and the transmission mount. I have new engine mounts as well. But something tells me these arent the cause of the noise.. Anyone knows what could be the case??
i have a problem when i shifting in lower gears while city driving it gets kind of clunky not clunk sound really but it feels clunky and i suspect its the dual mass flywheel that is worn out, idont really know if thats your issue but i just want let you to know if it that kind of clunk you refering to
Subframe can technically shift when losening it but when doing one corner at a time the other three bolts should hold the subframe in the original place so no alignment should be necessary.
I got the front 2 in just barely...Put you in the rear and basically swelled and shifty there’s no way to get the inserts in. Someday I’ll have to replace the whole bushin I suppose
I had the IPD ones on my car and removed them - it completely ruined the ride quality of the vehicle and made the ride very "busy" and stiffer - not in a comfortable way - and this was when I replaced with standard Sachs shocks again - OEM spec... I believe if they made a smaller loser fitting bushing with even softer material it would be a good balance of ride quality and performance as filling the voids with this stiff bushing essentially decreases the effectiveness of the subframe in controlling ride quality
Hi Justin, torque to yield bolts are one time use, as they stretch during the torqueing process. So you always want to replace those whenever they are being removed.
I'd imagine it being obvious that a stiffer bushing would make the car have an increased amount of feedback and tightness of steering response, with the drawback of increased vibration because... Well its stiffer and offers less dampening. These work well if you want to make an older R handle better, but yeah it does increase harshness
No, and no. The best way is to replace the subframe bushings with genuine Volvo parts. To do this you need a Volvo-only special tool. IT IS STLL AVAILABLE, though only from one garage in northern CA that has a bunch of old inventory. See my video on this Volvo special tool. I've done the subframe bushing replacement once, and am about to do it on our other V70.
Shut up dude lol. Why would someone spend >$150 for a tool they’re gonna use once? Either use these inserts, or use a generic press tool to get the old ones out. You got played
Brennan Antunell actually it’s easier to drill the old one out, you basically just break the plastic housing of the bushings and it almost falls out and you just press it in using a shim against the chassis and subframe. No special tools needed. Had a couple friends do this with no problems and works with the subframe still on the car.
Nobody cares about modern Volvos, sad cars for retirees. let's already have information about cars that are interesting! Since Ford got rid of them in 2010 ,now this is just one of the brands of the Chinese "Geely", which owns it. Another boring Chinese brand with only four cylinders engines, prices for which in the secondary market are falling like an avalanche!
Clearly you’ve never driven a Volvo and get all your information from others who tell you what is and isn’t cool. Ever heard of btcc? Ever heard of an in-line 5? The fact that u said sad cars for retirees really shows u know nothing
Apparently OP doesn’t understand these cars have a cult following and large groups dedicated to them. It’s 20 years of Volvo models that this applies to so it’s pretty helpful considering how many people own a Volvo model from in the year range with the p80 and p2 models.
Buy these inserts here! www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-subframe-bushing-insert-kit-powerflex-pff88-120#fitment?
Woahhh fcp is giving us videos of the p2 in 2020! This isnt a bad year after all
😂😂😂
It looks like you sell an alternative to this product called Volvo Poly Subframe Mount Insert Set - Pro Parts Sweden PPS-61430104PU for $42. Very good price. I don't think there a better price anywhere else. You guys selling Volvo parts makes owning and working on these cars so much easier.
You can replace these while on the car WITHOUT dropping the sub-frame, I've done it twice on the V70, took about 15 minutes a corner and used ZERO heat/torch, once for factory rubber bushings and then delrin bushings the second time. IMHO if you want to use these PU bushings and want tighter steering and feedback just go with the delrin bushings.
Any suggestions on how to actually do it?
@@kjelllindberg6987 you drill through the plastic outer shell of the old bushings and they come out easily.
I purchased the firmer insets and they were so easy to put in .FCP ARE TOP VALUE.
Much needed video tutorial. I was scared to try this fix but now I’m ready
Show the P3 some love FCP. Great video
here here. I'm waiting for that.
2 yrs later and still no P3 love
I’m about to replace my subframe bushings and add some inserts: so it’s nice that you provided the torque specs. With new bushings and inserts I expect a pretty big difference since these are the original 21 year old bushings still.
Definitely will be a big difference!
Update for anyone that is curious. Replacing them and putting the inserts in significantly stiffened the chassis feel in the front. Bumps are a lot more solid now but still smooth. In corners it no longer has that dipping feeling If doing a fast sweeper. Feels like it’s a lot more level and I actually can go faster around corners than before. Steering feel didn’t change as much as I thought it would as on center steering is still a bit vague but I do have a pretty thick sidewall. But steering mid corner is far more predictable and requires less adjustments mid corner. Overall I’m loving the car. With everything done to it. It feels like a modern luxury sports sedan but with more steering feel. New springs are a must for anyone wanting to regain some comfort and stability. Night and day difference. More of a difference then changing the shocks (which to be fair were not blown but definitely worn in the front)
Thanks for the update, Rex. That's *exactly* what I've been looking for, a before & after opinion with a little depth. And after you've lived with it a year and you don't have anything bad to report, I will absolutely be installing them next weekend!
@@gavinvalentino1313 so far i've had no issues. i used a generous amount of the grease supplied to make sure there would be no rubber on poly rubbing to cause any squeaking. you can go for full poly subframe mounts by delrin if you want to make it handle the best possible. i went with a new oem style bushing with the insert because i did not want to make it too stiff because i do go offroad with it. its been another year now (so about 2 years total) and still no issues and still feels more planted in the front suspension.
I have 151k on my xc70. How do I know I need these bushings without taking the bolts off?
Great video as always!
Just a request. Could you provide torque specs in Nm as well in these videos? It makes it easier for us across the pond.
Thanks again!
we can certainly pass along the suggestion to the team!
How is Americans feel with the service manual, I'm going to be buying a digital torque wrench because I'm sick and tired of converting from n•m to FT-lbs
77 foot-pound = 104,4 Newton meter
37 foot-pound = 50,2 Newton meter
It would be great if you would tell the equalent value of ft/lb in Nm so we (not from the US/not from imperial measurement based countries) would understand it too. Apart from this, keep up with these videos because they are bang-on!
We will make that a point!
105 NM + 120 Degrees
Hi all I installed Subframe bushing inserts on my 2002 Volvo V70 2.4 Non Turbo in 2022 and i bought them off Amazon and they were Terrible and i ended up removing them. They used to creek and squek and the car was embarrassing to Drive as when i was manovering the car in the Car park on a Full lock they were really creeking and you could hear it from outside the car so in the end i removed the subframe bushing inserts and they were not easy to remove the way i got them out was i pulled a corner of the insertband i put a thick screwdriver through and i rocked the instlert out the bush and once i got the inserts out that git rid of the creeking but i don't know what powerflex inserts are like but the ones off Amazon were Terrible But that is my own experience with the inserts Take care
wouldn't it make more sense to brace the subframe corner you're working on BEFORE removing the bolt - this way the subframe doesn't shift/drop, yet you still have access once you remove the bolt/plate to push in the insert.. then replace in the new bolt/plate? nothing has moved and the work gets done. no alignment necessary.
Great video!
Do you need an alignment after installing these subframe bushing inserts?
No
Same voice and style as PRIMUS bassist hehe cheers very nice video !!
After installing, the washers doesn’t touch the rubber perimeter anymore .. but I also cannot get the inlays deeper …
are there any options like this for the p1 c30? or could p2 bushing inserts be used on a c30?
A guy named Peppermint makes Volvo diy videos, and he has an easy way to remove the entire bushing, if you need to go all the way on this area of the car.
thanks for the tips and tricks, nice tyres though
Best eva!!!!!!!
FCP Euro 4eva😀👍
Fuck yeah u guys finally stock some!! I’ve been wanting to get some for a while, but refrained as I don’t like buying things from ipd If I can get it from fcp bc of the warranty and honestly I like your company better. Now I can get these inserts at arguably a better quality than the ipd ones, for a lower cost, and they’ll be covered for life lol. Sorry ipd but all u offer is no sales tax, and awful response times
Awful response times?
When I order stuff from IPD I usually get it in a few days...and I live in Australia! 🇦🇺
good day how do i order subfame bushing for volvo s40 t5 2.5 2011 model front and rear and inserts im in south africa
So called numb steering feel in xc70's will be eliminated then? Thanks..
I need your opinion regarding if this Subframe Bushing Insert kit will help solve some of the bad vibration I have in the front seats and steering wheel even I replaced all 5 motor mounts with new ones. Vibration happens only when car is not moving in any gear even in neutral--when is moving vibration disappear
Hey, i am having the same effects as you. I replaced all 5 motor mounts on my MY07 V70II D5 with Lemförder ones in April 2023 and since then i get a lot more vibration inside the car when idling. Even worse when i step on the brake pedal. I guess the stiffer new mounts transmit the heavy D5 vibrations wayyyy better. LOL
Could be the Crankshaft pulley. I had the same problem replaced every mount including the control arms. Then i saw the CS pulley had a little wobble. Check all your pulleys and use a slow motion video to help you see it better if there is play in all those pulleys.
Are these available for the doughnut bushes in a 1995 Volvo 960 mark II?
Can this be done on ramps. front and rear at a time. I dont see why the suspension being compressed would affect this install. I really dont want to put my buddies volvo on jack stands.
Was it able to be done on ramps?
Any recommendations, suggestions on a special removal and press tool for the rear/rear metal bushings? Model is 2002 S60 T5? Greatly appreciated.
See the video on my channel, I used the Volvo tool. Made a hard job easy, and still available. Good for front and rear subframe bushings on all P2 and P80 models including yours.
@@reallyhappenings5597 I did already. Thanks, but that tool is for the front only, the rear ones are metal, front are plastic.
@@marek19 I assure you it is for bushings of the front and rear subframes. If you mean to press out the other bushings of the rear suspension arms, I would suggest an extended length balljoint press kit.
@@reallyhappenings5597 thanks again. I think, the best for me is to remove the subframe and push them out on the press machine. Thanks again.
Please explain this concept of torque-ing to a given spec and then going a further 120 degrees. Wouldn't that be equivilant to a greater number spec?
alcraig1 it is not the same because when doing the 120 degree you are actually stretching the bolt and it’s not accurate to use a torque number when stretching the bolt. It’s also why you shouldn’t reused torque to yield bolts (ones that are stretched when installed)
TTY fasteners undergo plastic deformation during the final (angular) stage of tightening. This gives them an increased clamping force that they will never have again if reused.
Does the alignment change? I'll be doing this on an 850 with 395,xxx miles.
Depends on how the old bushings are worn. If the whole subframe is offset a bit due to uneven wear, and the alignment is adjusted for that, then yeah it might make a difference.
How about for us p3 owners? Thanks.
Yea lol why do they show a 20 year old car instead of ours lol
@@Alexander_l322
Because us P2 and S60R owners are a better class of people. 😋😉
Video on front subframe removal of merc w212 and engine removal and rebild
Haha
Is it possible to do this on a Volvo XC70 P3 frame I have 310000 km but if I can make it better handling I would like too buy this for sure ...thanks good video
.
No.
Does the 2003 Volvo S40 have these too?
does this apply to the 01-07 xc70?
all p2
Yup
Where can I find a torquesheet in newton meters?
VIDA has all the factory torque specs (it's the factory software after all). You can grab it from volvodiag.com as a ready-to-run virtual machine image. Very useful to have if you're doing your own work on your car. Will also interface with a DiCE unit for diagnostics and for resetting & 'coding' modules.
@@xyphur Yep, I know now. When I asked the question, I couldn't find it. But I have dumped my Volvo, because it was extremely expensive and wasn't worth it anymore.
@@SilentDecode gay.
What's the ZIPcode for Newton Meters?
Can anyone tell me if these worn out subframe bushings are the reason the car makes a cluncking sound while shifting? I have a v70n 2.4T manual wich is in great condition, the previous owner took great care of it but it makes a clunking sound while shifting. I already replaced the upper engine mount and the transmission mount. I have new engine mounts as well. But something tells me these arent the cause of the noise..
Anyone knows what could be the case??
i have a problem when i shifting in lower gears while city driving it gets kind of clunky not clunk sound really but it feels clunky and i suspect its the dual mass flywheel that is worn out, idont really know if thats your issue but i just want let you to know if it that kind of clunk you refering to
check upper torque mount and right lower engine mount for wear first,then check the gearbox torque mount
I changed all engine mounts and i still have that effect… next to change is the driveshafts , top shock mounts and inner steering joints
@@excysyr i found the problem on mine, duall mass flywheel was broken..
Does the wheel alignment need to be re-done after doing this?
no
Subframe can technically shift when losening it but when doing one corner at a time the other three bolts should hold the subframe in the original place so no alignment should be necessary.
Theoretically no.
I got the front 2 in just barely...Put you in the rear and basically swelled and shifty there’s no way to get the inserts in. Someday I’ll have to replace the whole bushin I suppose
Yeah thats terrible.
I had the IPD ones on my car and removed them - it completely ruined the ride quality of the vehicle and made the ride very "busy" and stiffer - not in a comfortable way - and this was when I replaced with standard Sachs shocks again - OEM spec... I believe if they made a smaller loser fitting bushing with even softer material it would be a good balance of ride quality and performance as filling the voids with this stiff bushing essentially decreases the effectiveness of the subframe in controlling ride quality
OEM Volvo Bushings 3507923 costs 293:- Swedish Crowns , wich is approximately 28.43 $ each
I wouldnt bother buying them. Just replace them with solid mounts.
Where can i buy it?
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-subframe-bushing-insert-kit-powerflex-pff88-120#fitment?
Why do the bolts needs replaced?
Hi Justin, torque to yield bolts are one time use, as they stretch during the torqueing process. So you always want to replace those whenever they are being removed.
So not for 04 S80 2.5?
Yes, this will work for a 04 S80. All the models that this applies to are listed in the description.
These things suck. I tried them Insert them in your space and see if they contribute to increased NVH.
I'd imagine it being obvious that a stiffer bushing would make the car have an increased amount of feedback and tightness of steering response, with the drawback of increased vibration because... Well its stiffer and offers less dampening. These work well if you want to make an older R handle better, but yeah it does increase harshness
You forgot that you need a new wheel alignment when you loosen the subframe?🤣
I did this years ago and it made zero difference=waste of money. Just replace the bushings
Agreed.
Gloves...
Pointless just fit solid bushes
Not at all pointless.
It's much easier and faster inserting these than replacing the entire bushings.
No, and no. The best way is to replace the subframe bushings with genuine Volvo parts. To do this you need a Volvo-only special tool. IT IS STLL AVAILABLE, though only from one garage in northern CA that has a bunch of old inventory. See my video on this Volvo special tool. I've done the subframe bushing replacement once, and am about to do it on our other V70.
Shut up dude lol. Why would someone spend >$150 for a tool they’re gonna use once? Either use these inserts, or use a generic press tool to get the old ones out. You got played
Regardless of using new Volvo bushings, I would still install the inserts as well.
@@mstrshkbrnnn1999 Perhaps you don't value perfection (or civility).
Brennan Antunell actually it’s easier to drill the old one out, you basically just break the plastic housing of the bushings and it almost falls out and you just press it in using a shim against the chassis and subframe. No special tools needed. Had a couple friends do this with no problems and works with the subframe still on the car.
@@rex_s80 yeah I know lol. This guys just coping w the fact that he got jipped almost $200 by calling me uncivil
Nobody cares about modern Volvos, sad cars for retirees. let's already have information about cars that are interesting! Since Ford got rid of them in 2010 ,now this is just one of the brands of the Chinese "Geely", which owns it. Another boring Chinese brand with only four cylinders engines, prices for which in the secondary market are falling like an avalanche!
I bet you’re fun at parties.
Sounds like you haven't driven one.
Clearly you’ve never driven a Volvo and get all your information from others who tell you what is and isn’t cool. Ever heard of btcc? Ever heard of an in-line 5? The fact that u said sad cars for retirees really shows u know nothing
**Laughs in Swedish**
Apparently OP doesn’t understand these cars have a cult following and large groups dedicated to them. It’s 20 years of Volvo models that this applies to so it’s pretty helpful considering how many people own a Volvo model from in the year range with the p80 and p2 models.