Great advice about the sway bar endlinks. Not only one of the most common causes of front and rear end noise but also one of the most improperly installed items on the car. If these aren't torqued all the way to 37 ft. lbs you will still hear the same knock/clicking sound you had with the old ones causing you to look for the next possible source. Don't go by feel on these! End links can go bad as early as 60-70k miles.
I installed Bilstein B8's with lowering springs about 7 years ago on my S60 T5. They still feel and look great all these years later and with 60k miles on them. Highly recommended if you don't want to take the deep dive into coil overs. Also FCP is the best!
I was at an autocross on Jekyll Island many years ago, I had to convince the course designer that my car could not navigate the course without using reverse. He had to redesign the course, just for me, and the corse to be rules compliant. Then he couldn't believe I drove a v70r in competition he told me I was the hardest working man at that autocross.
These video's are soooo much help with diagnosing my Volvo V70 P2 2.4 D5. Now I know where the knocking comes from when I'm on a bumpy road. Those Endlinks..
changed to kw lowering springs and shocks, and had this suspension rattle for about 2 years. now i know that i should probaly change the shock mount... thanks for the great video. keep it up!
I’ve wanted a Volvo S60 for the longest time and I’m j now seeing the p2 series and have learned so much and some of the stuff ur saying is def useful when I have the money to get one 😎
Many thanks Adam. Super informative. I was waiting patiently for the mention of the Nivomats which my 2005 XC70 has. I know they are super expensive to replace so I am just dreading the day.
you wont be disapointet....im a mechanic myself and had ALOT of difference cars, BUT a year ago i bought my first volvo s80 t6 and i will never have any other brand ....my good a great car
I just watched your video on P2 suspension issues, I have a 2004 V70 and, although I don't currently have any of the issues you mentioned I do have an issue that you didn't cover that seems to be common, that is, the inside of the tyre scrubbing on the inner guard on full lock. I have read what I can on this issue and most owners suggest changing or transposing the steering stop blocks. I tried both of those solutions including going to an XC70 block) as well as going down a tire size still within recommended range) but neither of these proved a satisfactory solution. Since there must be an underlying cause of this issue I am seeking expert advice for a solution, John
I am no expert but I have a 2008 s60 T5 that came with 235/40r18 stock tires. I put on 225/40r18 and it fixed the issue of tire rubbing the front fenders. Also it improved my U turn radius distance.
After these videos I always want to replace all components because I have a tiny bit of the symptoms of every part.. it's sad that replacing everything costs more than the car itself at this point :(
It doesnt if you buy online bro! Some things are better to get on fcp but eBay doesn't disappoint, just watch RUclips and diy, fcp has a lot of videos with instructions on how to do most of the work yaself! 💪
@@zzxnnyvr I was talking about replacing every part of the entire car, because the videos make me want to do that :3 I did end up making it technically mint again, now I'm in a new project: a 340...
Kinda sad the s80 isn’t in the intro for the p2 videos as it’s the father of the p2 platform and started 2-3 years before the rest at least 😢. But thank you for the large amount of information that is now easily available for reference.
Really Happenings but at least VIDA is so simple to use on Volvo’s system. The interface is amazingly easy when adjusting settings and reading codes with the workshop instructions built into it.
@@rex_s80 Yeah, except that buying a VIDA/Dice unit online is like making a speculative investment in Martian unobtanium. The reason I haven't crossed that bridge yet is because there appears to be no simple and reliable options, only weird Chinese stuff
I'm in the process of replacing the front struts of my 04 xc70 151k. I noticed the right side has no dampening. And the right side has a mild creaking sound when I brake. Sorry FCP but I ordered IPD quick struts bc FCP had none. Will also change the links. Now researching the rears. Not sure if I should change springs. I understand they can be removed without special tools.
V70 and v70xc p2 is same im changed about everything in front for about 6 years ago and still god no bad sound has clocked 789 tousand kilometer all was changed on 254 tousand
Nivomat shocks from xc70 can be installed on s80? I know that xc70 have the rear springs installed on the shock absorber, but i'm just curious if someone did this change. Awesome video anyway
is it possible for P2 XC70 with 4C system to have one (rear driver side) sensor not working due to non-OEM part replacement to drive with no issues? Because I found a car like that despite warning (not a chassis warning but a suspension sensor related warning) it drives fine. What is the problem here then possibly?
Quick question: I put eBay struts on my 07 XC90 a year ago. I know. Standing over the strut mount, hood open, pushing down to bounce that side, that top rubber flange should not move up and down, separately from the bolted mount itself?
Wonder if they forgot or didn't know to install the strut "stop" washer under the upper spring seat which is under the upper strut mount bearing. If that "stop" washer is missing it might explain why that top rubber flange (which I suspect might be the strut top washer you are seeing which is under the plastic strut nut cover) appears to be moving up and down when bounced. However, if it is in fact missing, and if you hit a large enough bump and the upper spring seat tears, the strut rod itself could possibly go right through the engine hood.
I just had a PTSD flashback to Liam's complete suspension rebuild I did in May 2020. Good lord I probably funded this whole video.... 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Excellent explanations on everything guys!! I only wish I was able to get some BC coilovers or similar from y'all.
Just replaced front struts, sway links, control arm, break pads and rotors on the s60R. Getting a squeak-squeak-squeak when taking a right or left turn at low speeds. Any ideas?
I noticed that the rubber boot at the base of the steering column inside the cabin above the gas pedal was making turning noise that sounded more complicated, but was easily refit.
You can get a LOT more than 100-120K miles on a set of front struts. Our '02 V70 XC is going strong with her original struts at 177K with lots of city driving, and my '04 XC90 is rocking her original struts with 147K on the clock. Dodge potholes when you can, and don't drive like an idiot -- they will last a good long while.
front subframe bushings CAN be replaced on the car with the Volvo tool... and it is still available. See my video on the subject. It's a tough job but I did it. Upgraded my V70 to bushings for the XC90, which are beefier but still soft rubber. I had tried the polyurethane inserts which are fine but add NVH
I put IPD polyurethane sway bar links on my 09 xc90 and the clunking is worse than ever. Yes they're installed properly but I guess I'm just gonna go with oem sway bar links this time because the noise is driving me crazy
It is the sway bar bushings. I also upgraded my end links to HD Meyle and made the clunk louder so now I have to prepare myself on the daunting task of changing the sway bar and maybe the subframe bushings sine I have to lower the subframe anyway.
...and the fact that if you swap nivomats to conventional shocks, you need to change springs too, otherwise you're going to encounter a rear spring sag due to nivomat springs being softer
As someone just getting into circa 2006-2007 s60r's and v70r's, the potential expense for these repairs is just frightening.....I may cancel my thought to purchase one and just walk😒
That's every vehicle. Someone just had to get a tail light replaced on an F150 ..... 5,600.00 repair, for a tail light. People are going to have to start repairing the cars they have rather than throwing away and get a new one.
Getting rid of BMW E39 540i, want a Volvo S60r/V70r, finds out I'm going to have to deal with basically the same steering/suspension flaws and CCV issues 😥
I'm getting a really metallic sounding rattle on my 07 s60r, seems to be coming from the back, gets faster with acceleration and is only present when it is warmer out. almost like something is knocking against something else. ive done some poking around and cant seem to find anything wrong. any ideas what this could be?
I now take a flat head screwdriver and kind of push the dust guard back once the wheel is on. I would always manage to pull it forward somehow and get that awful noise
i have an 05 v70R and i get a creaking noise in sport/advanced setting, but less/none in comfort... is it possible the part at 3:32 might be the solution?
Can a bad front strut/control arm/ball joint cause vibrations when braking from high speed? Dealing with this issue right now and I'm going to have to replace these parts anyways. Got new brakes installed already
I dealt with similar symptoms in my XC70. I found that my rear brake pads were seized in the caliper brackets and actually weren't braking at all, so it was my front brakes that were doing all the work when braking from high speeds. I cleared out the grooves in the caliper brackets with a wire wheel and applied a bit of anti-seize. What a difference it made. Maybe glance at your rear brakes rotors to see if they are shiny, or rusty-looking, because if they look rusty it means they have been sitting and maybe the rear pads aren't applying for whatever reason.
This note may be a little too late. Even with new brakes installed, if you are experiencing a vibration when braking from high speed, and if it became more apparent after installing the new brakes, I would not rule out the new rotors and/or hubs until they were checked for lateral run out with a dial indicator. Some brands of rotors and hubs may have a bit more allowance for lateral run out and when installed and phased together could produce a combined lateral run out that would now be felt when doing a stop. Another possibility is premature warping of new rotors caused by improper torquing of the wheels, or break in, or riding the pedal, or performing a series of hard hot panic stops with your foot remaining on the pedal for an extended period of time concentrating the heat in one spot. The P2 series Volvo's front brake rotors were woefully undersized for the weight of vehicle they needed to stop. Upgrading from the standard 286mm (11-1/4") front rotor size to the larger T5 series 305 mm (12") front rotor size will make a major improvement in braking power on those cars. I upgraded mine myself, as well as upgraded from regular cast iron rotors to high carbon rotors. That combination, along with good set of Euro spec low dust pads, was the best investment in time and money spent. To upgrade to the larger T5 sized rotors just required sourcing the T5 front caliper brackets which move the calipers a little further out. The calipers themselves, and flex brake lines, all remained the same. The larger rotors still allowed me to remount my 16" winter wheels & tires. So before throwing more money at more parts and labor chasing a symptom, maybe rule out what was already installed that it is not the cause of that symptom. In my case, it was. I caught this exact issue with a shop installed set of new rotors and hub where one rotor and hub produced a combined lateral run out of 0.0035" (two zeros after the dot) and the other only 0.00025" (yes, three zeros after the dot). The rotor with 0.0035" run out was both felt when spinning the wheel when the car was up on stands and when doing a stop. Correcting the issue with the rotor and hub produced a combined total lateral run of now only 0.0005" (yes, again three zeros after the dot) which is near perfection. The braking from any speed now is very super smooth and reassuring. If you're a DIYer you can check this yourself using a run out dial indicator with a magnetic base with adjustable arm, and some time and tools to remove the wheels and calipers. If you're not a DIYer you will have to find a shop that will take the time to do this as most today just want to sell you parts, slap them on, collect their money, and send you on your way. Good luck and hopefully you'll find the issue and get it resolved without breaking (or is that "braking") the bank.
@@fcpeuro great! Thanks for the response and keep up the good work! I love that yalls website has everything I need in one place for my mercedes,volvo,and saab. Love the helpful videos as well!
i know you can get the hd springs ...might look at that . but when you are not towing the comfort wont be the same as with originals , cause the spring is made exactly to help the nivomat
It seems like the towing capacity is based more on how the tow hitch mounts to the unibody. It's only a couple bolts to the bottom of the chassis, so upgrading the rear end suspension would give a smoother ride while towing but won't add a lot to the rigidity of the setup
I was happy enough to only drive at walking pace on a parking lot when my left balljoint separated... the driveshaft separated and it was HELL to get out the inner part of the gearbox... 😡😠🤬
i am curious about the P2 xc70 magnetic suspension... what is that all about my 06 xc70 has it but its been deleted and the rear end sits abit lower then the front because of it, got it this way. also front swap bar bushings for the same car... is there and aftermarket solution i could use, my sway bar slides from side to side and from my understanding the bushings are trapped in with the bracket... any other options available
eccentric bushings are the only solution. For rear toe (aka thrust), another company offers adjustable "rear stay arms" i.e. rear control arms. Those adjust in length as a turnbuckle would. But for rear camber, you need eccentric bushings and installation by an alignment shop. I've seen some offered on sport-aftermarket sites for these cars.
@@reallyhappenings5597 thank you, really appreciate your help. Do you know where i can find these rear eccentric bushings? My p2 is FWD and is on kw v3 suspension.
Surprised you didn't mention odd front-end noise from worn-out front sway bar bushings in the P2 XC70, which aren't officially individually replaceable - they're part of the bar. And the subframe has to be dropped to access. Wish someone would come up with a solution for this with the stock bar - there are "cobbled together" internet ideas, but they all sound sketchy.
I agree. I was hoping someone made a poly insert for the sway bar bushings without removing the whole bar. The labor is intense. The sway bar bushings go bad just like any other rubber found in the suspension.
Great advice about the sway bar endlinks. Not only one of the most common causes of front and rear end noise but also one of the most improperly installed items on the car. If these aren't torqued all the way to 37 ft. lbs you will still hear the same knock/clicking sound you had with the old ones causing you to look for the next possible source. Don't go by feel on these! End links can go bad as early as 60-70k miles.
Around where I live they go every 20k miles lmao
I installed Bilstein B8's with lowering springs about 7 years ago on my S60 T5. They still feel and look great all these years later and with 60k miles on them. Highly recommended if you don't want to take the deep dive into coil overs. Also FCP is the best!
Bilstein B8's are great! Thanks for the recommendation!
I have a question, do you lose you active chassis settings when you install lowering springs on the stock shocks?
Spot on with the large to comical turning radius LOL
yeahh spacers solwes that problem
I was at an autocross on Jekyll Island many years ago, I had to convince the course designer that my car could not navigate the course without using reverse. He had to redesign the course, just for me, and the corse to be rules compliant. Then he couldn't believe I drove a v70r in competition he told me I was the hardest working man at that autocross.
These video's are soooo much help with diagnosing my Volvo V70 P2 2.4 D5. Now I know where the knocking comes from when I'm on a bumpy road. Those Endlinks..
I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with that knocking sound. Going to look up how to replace those end-links myself . .
changed to kw lowering springs and shocks, and had this suspension rattle for about 2 years. now i know that i should probaly change the shock mount... thanks for the great video. keep it up!
I’ve wanted a Volvo S60 for the longest time and I’m j now seeing the p2 series and have learned so much and some of the stuff ur saying is def useful when I have the money to get one 😎
Really great video, appreciate you guys going the extra mile and making these.
Thanks for watching!
Many thanks Adam. Super informative. I was waiting patiently for the mention of the Nivomats which my 2005 XC70 has. I know they are super expensive to replace so I am just dreading the day.
Glad it was helpful, Peter!
Unfortunately my 2009 xc90 has those as well. I'm really not looking forward to spending so much on struts lol
That Volvo looks so good. I might get a Volvo :)
Do it! 😁
you wont be disapointet....im a mechanic myself and had ALOT of difference cars, BUT a year ago i bought my first volvo s80 t6 and i will never have any other brand ....my good a great car
Don't worry about the looks,drive it and you'll be sold!
I dont know how you deal with the constant shredding of the latex or nitrile gloves, man.....your a warrior! 😏
I just watched your video on P2 suspension issues, I have a 2004 V70 and, although I don't currently have any of the issues you mentioned I do have an issue that you didn't cover that seems to be common, that is, the inside of the tyre scrubbing on the inner guard on full lock. I have read what I can on this issue and most owners suggest changing or transposing the steering stop blocks. I tried both of those solutions including going to an XC70 block) as well as going down a tire size still within recommended range) but neither of these proved a satisfactory solution.
Since there must be an underlying cause of this issue I am seeking expert advice for a solution,
John
I am no expert but I have a 2008 s60 T5 that came with 235/40r18 stock tires. I put on 225/40r18 and it fixed the issue of tire rubbing the front fenders. Also it improved my U turn radius distance.
I hope they make a suspension video on P3s 🤞🏼
Same!
After these videos I always want to replace all components because I have a tiny bit of the symptoms of every part.. it's sad that replacing everything costs more than the car itself at this point :(
It doesnt if you buy online bro! Some things are better to get on fcp but eBay doesn't disappoint, just watch RUclips and diy, fcp has a lot of videos with instructions on how to do most of the work yaself! 💪
You can get complete front end kits for less than $300
@@zzxnnyvr I was talking about replacing every part of the entire car, because the videos make me want to do that :3 I did end up making it technically mint again, now I'm in a new project: a 340...
Yup 😂
based
Nice simple easily understandable illustration. Thanks a bunch
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Excellent information here. Please keep this up.
Thanks, Alofzico!
Kinda sad the s80 isn’t in the intro for the p2 videos as it’s the father of the p2 platform and started 2-3 years before the rest at least 😢. But thank you for the large amount of information that is now easily available for reference.
also Volvo's first CANbus car, only 10 years after Mercedes pioneered it!
Really Happenings but at least VIDA is so simple to use on Volvo’s system. The interface is amazingly easy when adjusting settings and reading codes with the workshop instructions built into it.
@@rex_s80 Yeah, except that buying a VIDA/Dice unit online is like making a speculative investment in Martian unobtanium. The reason I haven't crossed that bridge yet is because there appears to be no simple and reliable options, only weird Chinese stuff
Really Happenings I recommend going through Dave leach on Facebook with “vida2go” as he sets them up with ease.
It’s because you don’t see the first generations anymore.
Could you make a similar series (diagnostic/maintenance) for P1 Volvo? Thanks haha
We definitely can!
I'm in the process of replacing the front struts of my 04 xc70 151k. I noticed the right side has no dampening. And the right side has a mild creaking sound when I brake. Sorry FCP but I ordered IPD quick struts bc FCP had none. Will also change the links. Now researching the rears. Not sure if I should change springs. I understand they can be removed without special tools.
V70 and v70xc p2 is same im changed about everything in front for about 6 years ago and still god no bad sound has clocked 789 tousand kilometer all was changed on 254 tousand
Nivomat shocks from xc70 can be installed on s80? I know that xc70 have the rear springs installed on the shock absorber, but i'm just curious if someone did this change. Awesome video anyway
This was video I needed thanks man
Any advice for trailing arm bushing replacement? Is this an easy job for a shop?
At 8:10 perhaps you should mentioning using a hamer to get the balljoint in
is it possible for P2 XC70 with 4C system to have one (rear driver side) sensor not working due to non-OEM part replacement to drive with no issues? Because I found a car like that despite warning (not a chassis warning but a suspension sensor related warning) it drives fine. What is the problem here then possibly?
soothing background music
annoying I think
Quick question: I put eBay struts on my 07 XC90 a year ago. I know. Standing over the strut mount, hood open, pushing down to bounce that side, that top rubber flange should not move up and down, separately from the bolted mount itself?
Wonder if they forgot or didn't know to install the strut "stop" washer under the upper spring seat which is under the upper strut mount bearing. If that "stop" washer is missing it might explain why that top rubber flange (which I suspect might be the strut top washer you are seeing which is under the plastic strut nut cover) appears to be moving up and down when bounced. However, if it is in fact missing, and if you hit a large enough bump and the upper spring seat tears, the strut rod itself could possibly go right through the engine hood.
I just had a PTSD flashback to Liam's complete suspension rebuild I did in May 2020. Good lord I probably funded this whole video.... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Excellent explanations on everything guys!! I only wish I was able to get some BC coilovers or similar from y'all.
Just replaced front struts, sway links, control arm, break pads and rotors on the s60R. Getting a squeak-squeak-squeak when taking a right or left turn at low speeds. Any ideas?
Go over and double check everything you did. It could be a dragging brake caliper, or possibly a rubbing dust shield.
I noticed that the rubber boot at the base of the steering column inside the cabin above the gas pedal was making turning noise that sounded more complicated, but was easily refit.
You can get a LOT more than 100-120K miles on a set of front struts. Our '02 V70 XC is going strong with her original struts at 177K with lots of city driving, and my '04 XC90 is rocking her original struts with 147K on the clock. Dodge potholes when you can, and don't drive like an idiot -- they will last a good long while.
Great video. Thanks
Can a bad front strut cause vibration at high speed?
yep
What do you recommend for a soft ride over bumps?
sachs ....
front subframe bushings CAN be replaced on the car with the Volvo tool... and it is still available. See my video on the subject. It's a tough job but I did it. Upgraded my V70 to bushings for the XC90, which are beefier but still soft rubber. I had tried the polyurethane inserts which are fine but add NVH
That is true, any firmer bushing will add some NVH.
What's "NVH"?
My findings showed NVH to mean "noise, vibration, and harshness"
I put IPD polyurethane sway bar links on my 09 xc90 and the clunking is worse than ever. Yes they're installed properly but I guess I'm just gonna go with oem sway bar links this time because the noise is driving me crazy
It is the sway bar bushings. I also upgraded my end links to HD Meyle and made the clunk louder so now I have to prepare myself on the daunting task of changing the sway bar and maybe the subframe bushings sine I have to lower the subframe anyway.
What about front sway bar bushings(not links)
vulcanized to both the bracket and the bar, they just bolt to the subframe. tend not to wear out, however the stock swaybar is pretty thin anyway
You never said about the springs , known for braking
...and the fact that if you swap nivomats to conventional shocks, you need to change springs too, otherwise you're going to encounter a rear spring sag due to nivomat springs being softer
Nice guide!
As someone just getting into circa 2006-2007 s60r's and v70r's, the potential expense for these repairs is just frightening.....I may cancel my thought to purchase one and just walk😒
That's every vehicle. Someone just had to get a tail light replaced on an F150 ..... 5,600.00 repair, for a tail light. People are going to have to start repairing the cars they have rather than throwing away and get a new one.
Getting rid of BMW E39 540i, want a Volvo S60r/V70r, finds out I'm going to have to deal with basically the same steering/suspension flaws and CCV issues 😥
Same but different! It all depends on which car you like/enjoy more!
I'm getting a really metallic sounding rattle on my 07 s60r, seems to be coming from the back, gets faster with acceleration and is only present when it is warmer out. almost like something is knocking against something else. ive done some poking around and cant seem to find anything wrong. any ideas what this could be?
Great video. Thx
Btw, I don't see the links you mentioned.
is there a video for p3 s60s?
few days ago i just replaced strut, startet to made wierd grinding noise. i think dust guard metal plate was seased
I now take a flat head screwdriver and kind of push the dust guard back once the wheel is on. I would always manage to pull it forward somehow and get that awful noise
Can you do this video but for P3?
We plan on it!
i have an 05 v70R and i get a creaking noise in sport/advanced setting, but less/none in comfort... is it possible the part at 3:32 might be the solution?
Can a bad front strut/control arm/ball joint cause vibrations when braking from high speed? Dealing with this issue right now and I'm going to have to replace these parts anyways. Got new brakes installed already
I dealt with similar symptoms in my XC70. I found that my rear brake pads were seized in the caliper brackets and actually weren't braking at all, so it was my front brakes that were doing all the work when braking from high speeds. I cleared out the grooves in the caliper brackets with a wire wheel and applied a bit of anti-seize. What a difference it made.
Maybe glance at your rear brakes rotors to see if they are shiny, or rusty-looking, because if they look rusty it means they have been sitting and maybe the rear pads aren't applying for whatever reason.
This note may be a little too late. Even with new brakes installed, if you are experiencing a vibration when braking from high speed, and if it became more apparent after installing the new brakes, I would not rule out the new rotors and/or hubs until they were checked for lateral run out with a dial indicator. Some brands of rotors and hubs may have a bit more allowance for lateral run out and when installed and phased together could produce a combined lateral run out that would now be felt when doing a stop. Another possibility is premature warping of new rotors caused by improper torquing of the wheels, or break in, or riding the pedal, or performing a series of hard hot panic stops with your foot remaining on the pedal for an extended period of time concentrating the heat in one spot. The P2 series Volvo's front brake rotors were woefully undersized for the weight of vehicle they needed to stop. Upgrading from the standard 286mm (11-1/4") front rotor size to the larger T5 series 305 mm (12") front rotor size will make a major improvement in braking power on those cars. I upgraded mine myself, as well as upgraded from regular cast iron rotors to high carbon rotors. That combination, along with good set of Euro spec low dust pads, was the best investment in time and money spent. To upgrade to the larger T5 sized rotors just required sourcing the T5 front caliper brackets which move the calipers a little further out. The calipers themselves, and flex brake lines, all remained the same. The larger rotors still allowed me to remount my 16" winter wheels & tires. So before throwing more money at more parts and labor chasing a symptom, maybe rule out what was already installed that it is not the cause of that symptom. In my case, it was. I caught this exact issue with a shop installed set of new rotors and hub where one rotor and hub produced a combined lateral run out of 0.0035" (two zeros after the dot) and the other only 0.00025" (yes, three zeros after the dot). The rotor with 0.0035" run out was both felt when spinning the wheel when the car was up on stands and when doing a stop. Correcting the issue with the rotor and hub produced a combined total lateral run of now only 0.0005" (yes, again three zeros after the dot) which is near perfection. The braking from any speed now is very super smooth and reassuring. If you're a DIYer you can check this yourself using a run out dial indicator with a magnetic base with adjustable arm, and some time and tools to remove the wheels and calipers. If you're not a DIYer you will have to find a shop that will take the time to do this as most today just want to sell you parts, slap them on, collect their money, and send you on your way. Good luck and hopefully you'll find the issue and get it resolved without breaking (or is that "braking") the bank.
There has to be a way to rebuild p2 4c shocks
Struts- what if there’s no bounce or play it’s bottomed out at rest pretty sure they bad jw
Do yall sell the rear trailing arm bushings for 09 xc90? Mine are completely shot
Hi Jim, we sure do. Be sure to head over to FCPEuro.com and use our vehicle selector to find all the parts you may need for your XC90!
@@fcpeuro great! Thanks for the response and keep up the good work! I love that yalls website has everything I need in one place for my mercedes,volvo,and saab. Love the helpful videos as well!
4C front strut failure can be the opposite ... no bouncing, instead it turns rock hard acting like no spring at all.
would a conversion of the rear struts to nivomat be advantageous for towing?
i know you can get the hd springs ...might look at that . but when you are not towing the comfort wont be the same as with originals , cause the spring is made exactly to help the nivomat
It seems like the towing capacity is based more on how the tow hitch mounts to the unibody. It's only a couple bolts to the bottom of the chassis, so upgrading the rear end suspension would give a smoother ride while towing but won't add a lot to the rigidity of the setup
I was happy enough to only drive at walking pace on a parking lot when my left balljoint separated... the driveshaft separated and it was HELL to get out the inner part of the gearbox... 😡😠🤬
😢
I've put in new front struts and seats and they're still creaking whenever I turn to the left. Any ideas?
Did you replace the upper strut mounts? That could be your creaking.
@@fcpeuro or a bad driveshaft
i am curious about the P2 xc70 magnetic suspension... what is that all about
my 06 xc70 has it but its been deleted and the rear end sits abit lower then the front because of it, got it this way.
also front swap bar bushings for the same car... is there and aftermarket solution i could use, my sway bar slides from side to side and from my understanding the bushings are trapped in with the bracket... any other options available
How do you adjust rear camber on p2 v70 T5. My camber is way off and have no idea on how to make them right??
eccentric bushings are the only solution. For rear toe (aka thrust), another company offers adjustable "rear stay arms" i.e. rear control arms. Those adjust in length as a turnbuckle would. But for rear camber, you need eccentric bushings and installation by an alignment shop. I've seen some offered on sport-aftermarket sites for these cars.
@@reallyhappenings5597 thank you, really appreciate your help. Do you know where i can find these rear eccentric bushings? My p2 is FWD and is on kw v3 suspension.
@@mas_v70 try ipdusa.com FYI, i got a set, still trying to get the tool, or make one to install them!
@@MrQuantom yeah i checked my man, only problem is that they are only for S60/V70R. Mine is FWD so don't think it'll fit? If i tried ipd bushes???
@@mas_v70 I'd say your man is wrong, the offset camber bushes will fit all P2 Chassis... call IPD to verify... not sure what "kw V3" suspension is? 🤔
@fcpeuro.com When you getting 4c rear struts in? Car sitting in garage waiting
Soon, hopefully!
Lmao thanks guys now i know where that clunk is coming from. 🙌
Good ole P2 suspension clunk! Happy to help!
oh yea btw the shock towers get rusty... anyway...
WAHTT MENTION IT MORE
Could you please make video without music.
As a music video, it is rather of little interest.
As a technical video, the extra noise is distracting.
We can certainly pass that along to the team
@@fcpeuro Thank You
Surprised you didn't mention odd front-end noise from worn-out front sway bar bushings in the P2 XC70, which aren't officially individually replaceable - they're part of the bar. And the subframe has to be dropped to access. Wish someone would come up with a solution for this with the stock bar - there are "cobbled together" internet ideas, but they all sound sketchy.
I agree. I was hoping someone made a poly insert for the sway bar bushings without removing the whole bar. The labor is intense. The sway bar bushings go bad just like any other rubber found in the suspension.
Wrong answer I have an 04 Volvo XC70 and they are known for breaking springs
so basically don't get a p2
" Basically " , effing bad English .