I own a 2017 one with 94000km on it. I love it. I recently went on an EU road trip to the eastern parts, 3200km holiday without any problem at all. If you keep slow-charging it and keep the charge below 80% it will last a very long time.
Impressive. Mine that is from 2018 has done 98000km and when I do a similar test I come to the figure that my degradation is around 7-8%. Maximum usable is for me is 25,5kwh. Mine hade done quite a lot of fast charging and that certainly ads up. It proves to some extent that if you take care of the battery it last very long time🙂
I have the same experience with my Ioniq 2018. 64000 km driven only by me. But the car was the show car at the car dealer so I think it was abused a bit in the beginning. However I do not really experince the degrade when driving longer trips anyways so still I am super pleased with my car
Interesting and useful, we have a 2016 Ioniq, so I am very pleased to hear about the state of the battery. We live in the French countryside, and can charge at home and find, as you do yourself the range is fine for day to day trips.
Bought a 2018 Hyundai Ioniq last week with 67,000 miles on the clock. The car was always charged at home with the previous owner This video gives me confidence!
Great review. Bought one of these 2019 model last year. Absolutely brilliant car from efficiency and comfort levels. If you can cope with the local range for 95% of the time would highly recommend.
@@cazza6944 Sorry, I don't know what is a suitable app, as I don't use them. We have an Autel diagnostic scanner which does this job. Join the Ioniq Facebook Group and ask there. But really, you don't need to worry about the batteries on these.
Thanks for this great video. It goes a long way to convincing people that they really don't need to wait for longer range cars before switching to an EV.
Very nicely explained, as usual. I'm still impressed how efficient the Ioniq Electric still is. Despite all the new models, only the upcoming Mercedes EQXX will be more efficient than Tesla and Hyundai.
The speed of rapid charging of the Ioniq is another benefit. In the cold the other day I needed to charge to go out (emergency, not had the car plugged in at night) I went to the nearest local 50kW rapid (a Lidl 50kW PodPoint 3 miles across town, so still cold battery) and went from 24% to 80% in 23 minutes drawing a pretty constant 47.5kW. It slows after that to draw about 25-30kW until it stops at an indicated 93%. Find any rapid that can do more than that and the old Ioniq can nearly draw 70kW and that is really speedy to charge! Also interesting is your battery SoC as reported by the BMS. My 40,000 mile Ioniq reads 94.5% when it is at 100%. So I think there is some loss for both our cars in the buffer from new but I've not seen a reliable reading of a 'new' Ioniq to know what the original buffer was - I think it must be around 7%, reading 93%? Still, at this rate the things won't be dropping any range until they are well into the 150,000 miles or so! Any Ioniq owner can read the BMS by using a Bluetooth OBD reader and EVNotify, Car Scanner Pro (a paid app) or canIoniq.
I have one of these and they are a great EV for the price (used, of course). Mine's the same year as yours and has only done 15,000 miles! I hope to put more mileage on it when covid goes away! Great review as always.
A great video. Really helps build confidence for those of us who have yet to make the switch to electric. I have driven Hyundai petrol cars since 2012 and they have been super reliable, although my annual mileage is only 6,000. Hyundai/Kia EV's seem to be superb for reliability, maintenance and long term use.
Many thanks for the in dept review. We have recently bought the same model and year Ioniq second hand and are excited to start experiencing life with an electric car!
Hi Matt, thanks for your video very interesting I pick up a Hyundai Ionic 38 KW Premium SE on Monday so good to see just how efficient and longlasting the Battery Packs are. I'm getting a new 22 plate car so I hope it gives me many years of driving.
My 38kWh 69 plate has done 37k miles almost faultlessly. Charger interlock needed replacing that’s about it. Thinking I’ll keep it. (Had a new MG4 for 3 weeks before it was rejected)
Great video. Nice to see you addressing the claim that the batteries don't last. I have an Ioniq 38kwh and love it. I have only had it since December and two longer journeys. Once M-way Services get their acts together with sufficient DC charging, even longer journeys will become stress free. However, when you check the charging apps you will find plenty of charging options just off the M-way. I recommend that; also cheaper.
"Driving many litres arround which will be needed in two weeks." So true. I like the old Ioniq but can't afford it .... for now.... 😜 Thanks for the informative video. 🙏
Thank you for a very helpful and informative. If any person questions your facts after such an in-depth review, then they will not be readily converted to an EV for another 2 - 4 years. Their loss.
Brilliant and very patient and thorough presentation of most of the factual realities I often struggle to get people to understand or receive fairly toxic replies to. I already own the same car (2018 Premium) and plan on keeping it perpetually and also buying another if I can find one of the very last delivered to Denmark with a low mileage.
Hy, I bought a 2018 Ioniq, I'm very very happy with my car :). I saw some of your videos, and that also ensured me to buy this car. Thanks for these great content! Ioniq is a LEGEND :D Last time I did a 180 km trip to our relatives (80+20+80) without charging, and it works perfectly around 0-5 degrees of Celsius. and the Battery had still 20 km more range.
Thanks for making this video, really helpful to someone like me who has just bought their first electric car and plan to keep it for a fair few years 👍
Thank you for you real world review on this car, I'm in a position to buy an EV now and although I had my heart set on a model 3, with the recent price increase and the 9 to 12 month wait list in Australia I am looking at other EV's. Thanks to your video and the fact the Ioniq electric has now been given a battery upgrade to 38kw/h I think I'm sold.
Excellent Content, Excellent RUclips Channel, Excellent Explanation & Just Sticking to Showing & Explaining the Facts. Facts Always Speak 🗣 for themselves. Thank You 🙏. I have a 2021Hyundai Kona & just love it. The previous few years of these had a Lifetime Warranty on the Battery 🔋 this is the reason I got this Kona. Even though we don’t have the Lifetime Warranty on the Battery 🔋 it’s still the same battery 🔋 as the previous years when it did have the Lifetime Warranty. 🍻 👊 🇺🇸
Engagement . 👍 Good video. I was beginning to have doubts about battery life and to be honest your Tesla videos scared me off as I worry ordinary people may not have gotten the same service under warranty from the manufacturer. We have two cars and an nv200 all diesel due to be replaced. Thanks for the advice.
Yes my Tesla videos let the side down a bit, but I'm here to tell the truth about EVs. Tesla got it wrong with the early 85kWh packs, which they have fixed and its not the norm. All manufacturers make mistakes sometimes.
Thank you very much for this very detailed video. I have found this very useful and also consistent with my own experience, being an Ioniq owner myself.
Thanks for all analysis and testing. Amazing pack technology. I do not understand why Nissan, VW, BMW, Tesla, etc. could not have copied this cell chemistry.
now the LFP batteries chemistry from BYD and CTAL, will have double this longevity, those batteries will last for 500,000 km before seeing any degradation, and they are much much safer you can see videos about them on youtube, the ICE cars time is over literally
Thanks a lot for explaining these issues, I just bought this model and I'm soooo happy with my purchase. Your suggestions and explanations are invaluable to me. all the best and good luck developing the channel. Greetings from Poland
Hi from New Zealand- I’ve managed to get hold of a 2018 for a reasonable price - found your video’s very helpful.👍. Btw - love the car it’s awesome. Cheers Dave
Very interesting video. I would have bought one of these but they were not available recently. I have now got a Soul Maxx EV and am very happy with it...
This is such a helpful video, Matt, thanks. You mentioned floods which made me want to ask: is there any reason to be concerned about driving through deep water? You've really made me fancy one of those, we did get out to look at a new one last summer just so I could get an idea of the size. I watched your "packing the boot" video but I was still surprised how big a car it is, even the size of the tyres, though I think they might have been twenty inch wheels which is a bit excessive! Probably can't make the change until '24 but I'm hoping the secondhand market will have calmed down a bit by then... I'm sure I'll have made my mind up between this and the e-Niro by then 😂
No concern about driving thru deep water. EVs are better than ICE vehicles as there's no engine air intake, but obviously you have to be sensible. The Ioniq has 16" wheels.
@@GoGreenAutos thanks Matt, that's good to know, had a feeling it would be OK but it's good to hear it from someone with experience. I guess that new Ioniq must have just looked bigger in the showroom. Or maybe it's just that I'm driving a Skoda Roomster which is a bit dinky and old school! Looking forward to the time I can get on your mailing list, only a couple of years now...
A very interesting real world video that raised some important questions in my mind: - As regards the battery analysis: what happens if one or more of those numerous cells has failed? - What would be the cost of repairing/replacing them? Or is the whole battery a failed unit? In which case what is the cost of replacement? And can any of these repairs be done at a local dealership? - Also, a couple of points that came to my mind when listening to the comments about charging stations being available at service stations & garden centres: 1) When Harry Metcalfe (Harry's Garage channel/ ex Evo mag MD) took an EV to from Oxford to London and back last year - he couldn't find a charging station that was available, or that worked but didn't require subscribing to a 'specific App' in order to use it. Leaving him unable to charge his car. - Is it still the case that you can't pay to charge by credit card as you would for petrol? i.e.: you have to have an App, as well as a finding a compatible charging station? 2) The cost of electricity is going up rapidly. Some predictions are a 50+% increase in April this year (from Martin Lewis - Money expert), in which case will it be as cost effective per mile as a petrol car? Thanks for the video.
Battery repairs - not something a dealership can do. But other can. See ruclips.net/video/Ws9Y1be8N-U/видео.html where a Leaf battery is refurbished for only £500. More of this will come as a market develops. Public charging - All the newer chargers now have chip & pin payment, so you just tap your card on the machine to use them. Some still require apps, but its easy. If you have an EV, its just part of the course. I only have 4 apps on my phone and that covers all the networks I ever use. Yes electricity is going up. But it is still vastly cheaper than petrol, which is also going up. £10 of fuel gets you about 800 miles in an EV, if you charge overnight on cheap rate electricity, but only about 56 miles in a diesel! Charge on public chargers or daytime rates and you'll still get about 167 miles in an EV. This is based on an average economy of 4mpkWh and charging on an overnight EV tariff at 5p per kWh or a public or daytime rate of 24p per kWh. Diesel comparison based on an average economy of 40mpg with a fuel cost of £1.56 per litre.
@@GoGreenAutos Thank you for your prompt responnse to my questions. Whilst it might be possible for a small cottage industry to fix some EV batteries, the fact that a main dealer does not have the facilities to repair one of the most important components in the car (i.e. the battery cells) is a cause of concern in my view, even if the public charging stations were all working perfectly. I called into a Tesla dealer recently and asked them the same question regarding batterie cells - their reply was: "we never sell, or buy a used Tesla unless its under warranty, as our dealerships cannot repair the batteries". Which left me wondering - what happens to a Tesla's value (from a main dealerships view) when the battery warranty has expired? And what happens to all those batteries that cannot be repaired - do they go to landfill? Until I can see that a main dealer can repair all of the key components in the vehicle in an enviromental way, I remain on the fence with EV's. But I will keep watching your videos for when that day comes.
As previously stated very well put together. Really appreciate the honest informative review. Made me think about what range I would really need for my use on a day to day basis. Very keen to move into the EV world and TBH it’s the initial purchase cost that is stopping me. I know you would advise there are plenty of second hand models out there but I do like to be the first owner so I know how treated from day one. However the reliability of Hyundai is really impressive and no perceivable degradation from battery after 89k miles very reassuring. Currently all second hand car prices a bit crazy at minute bu5 as new supply eventually improves I reckon the newer Hyundai and Kia’s will be the one’s to watch. Great work.
Thanks for a great video. I had an Ioniq PHEV for 3 years and that too was very economical. I have now bought an MG5 LR about 3 months ago, not as efficient as the Ioniq but a good range of 250 miles wltp which I'm hoping to achieve in the summer🤞.
I had one person tell me even though they did not own a ev, they said that my battery in the car after 3 year would not be 100 % but I get 147 mile to my battery today may be the different temp may be due to the location of the cells in the pack ones on the outside of the pack could have cold air closer to it I hope that i get the same 100% in the future when i have done 89k . I totally agree with what you say on range and use, I do get sick of people complain about range and charging up. there was a taycan driver who waited till the morning he was going to Scotland long trip, charged up at 9am to 100% on a 50kw charger. then complained he could not get to were he was going because it got dark at 6pm. and he had to charge a lot all to 100%. 1 fact your car needs washing heheheheh
Thanks for sharing. Agree fully with the main point which is that 120 miles gives plenty of range for real day to day life. On the calculation of remaining capacity, from what I see on my Ioniq there is c8% to 9% charging losses so wouldn't that mean accessible capacity in this instance is 24.65÷.78x0.92= 29.1 kWh to be compared with gross capacity of 30.5 kWh, so not quite 100% but still very good and not noticeable?
Yes, they're technically much better than a Leaf. Plenty of other Ioniq videos on this channel to help with your discovery, see ruclips.net/user/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
Glad I haven't got to worry about any of this, nor do I have to worry how much the government are going to charge UK drivers for driving on the roads, still, be interesting to see how much money they will charge
Impressive, and encouraging for its longevity. Kia and Hyundai have established a pretty good record for reliability. My regular long distance run is 180 miles, all motorway bar perhaps 3 miles so I'd be looking at something with over 2 x this battery capacity and/or much faster charging. Whilst I'd typically stop once or twice in that journey, it literally is a 10 minute break to walk to the toilet, stretch or buy a drink, so ideally I'd only need to charge at either end. A BMW i4 is appealing but I'm about £45k short of the required cash!
I’ve been considering one of these for a while for when my ICE car goes back in September, unfortunately the used market is a mess. I saw 28kwh versions going for £13/4K 1 year ago and now they are £18k+ !!
That's right. They've all gone up a lot, but then so have all used cars - both EVs and ICE. The Ioniq Electric is in particular high demand, so I expect prices will stay high. The message is finally getting out about how good these are...probably because of all the videos I've made. :-)
@@GoGreenAutos I did feel they were cheap for how good they are, maybe the price nowadays is more like what they should have been fetching a year ago. I’ll wait it out and hopefully prices will calm down over the next several months 👍🏻
@@dan123collins Yes they were too cheap. The Ioniq is worth more than a similar year Leaf and finally they are getting there. The 28kWh Ioniq can do the same range as a 40kWh Leaf and has better battery, pack thermal management and more equipment.
@@GoGreenAutos always worth mentioning the drawbacks compared to the LEAF too, for me the 360 camera is a very useful feature, as is the remote climate control via the app. Neither are possible with the ioniq, but they also weren't deal-breakers for me (I moved from a LEAF30 to an Ioniq 28), but I think worth mentioning.. And also the boot access on the ioniq is awful, having to retract the cover manually each time, and barely being able to get a large shopping bag in due to the lack of height once the load cover is drawn back into place.
My 2017 Ioniq28 still has the 28kWh available, but if I calculate from the BMS numbers, it seems to have about 94% of original capacity. But that is still enough to give you 28kWh. Nearing 90k km. And my car has taken some beating, when I drove it from Bergen Norway to Pontevedra Spain in summer 2019 only quick charging.
I'll try to explain the difference between capacity and SoH again. The info you get off the tester is very helpful for this purpose. All SoH = 100% tells you is that all the cells behave the same way within a very narrow margin. I.e. SoH may occasionally dip below 100% and then recover as you charge to 100% and let it do its thing. The battery will loose capacity as it's SoH dips, and regain this loss as SoH recovers. That's because some, and in some instances most, cells are no longer being fully charged as SoH dips. If SoH no longer recovers, you permanently loose capacity too. However, you also loose usable capacity while your SoH still sits at 100% and this is by and large irreversible, and it certainly happened to the battery you are reading out in this video, because physics. SoH isn't a measure of battery capacity, but one of battery balance. To understand capacity and loss of usable capacity, you first need to understand top and bottom buffers. Your tester tells you, your display state of charge is 99% and your actual state of charge is 94%, meaning your top and bottom buffers are around 5% combined. Well, if your usable capacity is 28kWh and your total capacity is 30.5kWh, that should be closer to 9%, right? Now that's in terms of energy content, but in reality the buffer is a safety margin in charge and discharge voltage. The LiPo cells in the Ioniq's battery get destroyed once you discharge them below 2.5V or charge them above 4.35V, or thereabouts. The cell manufacturer packs a safety margin into the specified charge and discharge voltage for the capacity and lifecycles he has to guarantee. Lets say 3.0V to 4.3V. The energy stored between 4.3V and 3.0V is the total capacity. Hyundai pack their own margin on top of that, say 3.5V to 4.1V. That's the buffer. Obviously, the relationship between voltage and capacity is not linear. There's very little energy between 3.0V and 3.5V, maybe 1-2%. The curve drops off a cliff at around 3.7V to 3.5V. There also isn't very much between 4.1V and 4.3V, maybe 6-10%. You can see that of the 1.3V total voltage difference representing total capacity, 0.7V go into the buffers, and only 0.6V into usable capacity. Degradation kinda shrinks available energy per volt, and it's a little worse at the top than at the bottom. It's curve, so to speak is somewhere between voltage and capacity. You should expect to have lost about 3-5% of total capacity in the top buffer zone and about 5-10% in the usable energy zone and basically nothing in the bottom buffer. In other words, you lost probably half your top buffer and about 15km/10mi of range. Because you lost most of that in the first few charging cycles, you should be good for another 100k miles before you actually start noticing a difference.
@@GoGreenAutos In this second part I will try to explain where you made the "mistake" in your assessment. It's really quite simple, you still have 16mi range left on the guessometer and you are at 15% SoC. The problem is, the guessometer in both miles and % left is based on voltage, and it's linear. As I explained earlier, capacity represented by this voltage is not linear, and the information presented to you are therefore false. Had you continued driving on, those 16 miles would have turned out to be only 6 or so, because at that point, voltages drops into the abyss without releasing much more energy. That was always the case, that's not where you loose usable energy, but when the battery was new, you would still have had 25 miles left instead of 16. Because you only used the battery down to 15% instead of all the way to 1%, you think you have 15% left, when in reality it's maybe 5%-8%, and that's where the loss of usable energy hides.
@@adrianguggisberg3656 I don't agree with this. The guessometer is pretty good in the Ioniq and when it says 16 miles left, the reality is that it will probably do 18 miles actually, if you're willing to push it past the point in which it goes to "---".
@@GoGreenAutos Oh, and there's another point I want to mention. You can't really assess capacity by charging, you need to measure it by discharging. And you have done it. You drove 103 miles and your consumption was 4.7 miles to the kWh, which in turn means you discharged 22kWh from your usable battery capacity. Since you started at 99% and ended up at 15%, that means 84% are 22kWh and thus 100% are 26kWh. If you assume 15% are actually 8% and therefore 22kWh are 91%, then 100% turn out to be 24kWh and your battery lost about 15% of usable capacity. That makes sense, because a 28kWh battery can't give you 28kWh at this temperature, even if it's still at 100%, because physics. You thus lost about 8%-ish of usable capacity, which is what I predicted it would have in the earlier video, because that's what they all have. However, this battery is now in the middle of a very long, very stable phase. You will loose 1%-2% per year for many years to come, which is basically nothing. It's going to take ages before you'll even start persuading yourself you might be noticing a difference. I still confidently believe this is the best engineered EV battery pack with the best, highest quality cells known to man in any EV to this day.
That’s interesting to know, my 28Kw Ioniq is at 25,000 miles , only charge at normal rates never rapid charged , mine is 2018 (68) , I have read 5.5M/KWH on dash so my battery will most probably read @ 100%, fabulous motor. I also understand that 2018 and earlier are Korean batteries, but it’s soon after they fitted Chinese batteries in some which were apparently problematic .
Thanks for the info, I'll be looking for some info on using an electric vehicle to send electric power back to the house, not sure if you've done a video on that yet.
No, not done any videos on V2L or V2G. Only some of the very latest EVs have V2L. The Nissan Leaf with chademo charging can do V2G, but you need a DC charger at home, such as the Wallbox Quasar.
Good measurement. Impressive car. You should use the OBD kWh charged. It was on the listed data. The wallbox is including the charge losses. So not the really effective needed kWh for driving.
Good review of an older ev, it shows hyundai use good batteries. It will be interesting to see if all ev batteries last as well, particularly ones that have been rapid charged regularly.
From my experience of seeing many used EVs, frequent DC charging as no noticeable affect on batteries..in the real world. I know of ex-taxi Leaf that has had 6,500 DC charges and its battery is the same as any other at the same age.
Try to test with "aviloo battery diagnostics". 100% SOH after 5 years and 80,000miles still true. I have the same car, at no last test in July 2021 with ~70,000km it still had ~96% effective usable capacity, so just under 25kWh.
Great video. Love your video's! Was very helpfull in my search for an IONIQ and i3. The BMS measurements you did are also interesting. Unfortunately I do seem to have one or more cells in my IONIQ that are faulty and have a 0,12V deviation from other cells. This is measured at 1% SoC. My car has done 167.000 km, so a little more than yours. What's your professional opinion on this?
Very Helpful! How long do you recommend for Preconditioning in winter? I'm in London so it doesn't usually go below -3 C. Should we set the car to winter mode? (39kwh premium SE)
I don't think winter mode really applies to UK temperatures as I seem to remember that only kicks in when really cold (i.e. Scandinavian temperatures). As for pre-conditioning, just set the time when you want to drive and it sorts it out. It will typically come on around 20 mins before you leave.
Another informative video! Many EV's now come with an 8 year battery warranty. So manufacturers must be confident the batteries will easily last this long. On average a car is scrapped after 12 years. I suspect with a modern BMS, batteries are now likely to out-live the car.
4.1 volts is 90% and 1000 cycles for 80% remaining capacity. That's around 200,000 miles before it would be described as needing replacement. But left standing or low mileage could be worse condition.
Really interesting analysis, Matt -- would you expect the larger 64 kW units on the newer cars to age as well after this sort of high mileage? I've been looking at the Kona EV with the longer range 64 kWh battery ....
@@garysmith5025 Excellent, Gary, thank you. It appears the power packs' longevity is both stable, and the degradation seems to be relatively low. Good to know, and interesting that they're being used in Scotland in that way.
I only drive to work and do a bit of shopping on a Saturday. I also cycle sometimes. 5 miles each way to work = 50 miles per week. Approx. 13 miles on a Saturday, I pick my Mum up and take her also. 50+13=63 miles per week. With a range of 125 miles in the Winter I could go 2 weeks on a full charge 😮! 28kWh at 17p per kWh = £4.76!! 3.8 pence per mile. There's no way in hell a petrol or diesel car can match that. The only problem is I will never be able to afford to buy one ☹.
I'm actually considering one, because of the fast charging speed - it should be good for longer journeys too. What would you say is the ideal speed for long range driving / fast charging (e.g. a 300 mile trip)? Thanks for the video!
As with any car, the faster you go, the more fuel it uses, due to the air resistance. However, the Ioniq is very aerodynamic and efficient so performs better than most, if not all. But as always, driving at 65mph, rather than 70mph will save fuel and extend range. Driving at 60 will save more. For long drives, just try to keep at 65 or less and charge when the battery is as low as you can risk it. It will charge faster if it is empty.
3.29 looking at the cumulative charge kWh 23783.4 kwh / pack size 28 kWh = total charge cycles 849.4 You will probably get 1200/1500 before 80% DOD 👍 so about half way through the useable life cycle not bad
Looking at this video, made me consider cheaper Hyundai or Kia EV. You are right, People are stressed about EV not having more than 325miles on range. But this is a misunderstanding of what range they really need. It's like money, everyone wants more and more. Not satisfied with what they have.
If you can charge at home overnight, then you the EV just needs the range of a day's driving. Typically, in the UK, that is only around 25 miles. So an EV like this Ioniq, does 3 times that. As I've shown on this video ruclips.net/video/ib-eV-Uat6M/видео.html, the car has only had a couple of DC rapid chargers in the last 1.5 years.
Hi matt. Thinking of buying one of these 38k version. With new cars such as mg4 do you think its still worth considering? 170 mile range of ioniq vs 212 of mg4. Also kess faster charging with ioniq. Would love your views
The Ioniq is super efficient, so you can actually get 228 miles out of them in the summer, if driven efficiently and 190 miles easily without even trying. You'd have to look at both and try and feel them. But the Ioniq is better quality, higher spec and quite a bit cheaper now. But overall, pretty similar EVs. I've not driven an MG4 yet, but sat in them, and also owned a ZS for a year or so. Personally, I'd say the Ioniq has the edge. Our 28kWh had done 102,000 miles when we swapped it for the 38kWh and the only thing that was replaced on it was one ABS sensor, apart from tyres and wiper blades.
Always impressed with this cars efficiency, for me it’s just the battery needs to be a bit bigger so it is capable of nearer 200. I think any that can achieve close to 200 is more than enough (I’m very pro electric, not one of the crew who want a few hundred miles per charge). On a separate note, how fast was rapid charge when it was needed?
I drive exactly the same one but it's is black. Only niggle I have with the car is... Bad winter hearing in the car. Luckily it does have heated seats (even the back seats are heated) and a heated steering wheel.
Great review. Did you charge it to full in all the years of use? or did you limit it to 80% like it is recommended? The MG ZS I own doesn't have SOC limiter and I am quite tired of waking up at 2AM to unplug it.
Life is too short to be messing around like that. Just charge to 100% if you're intending to use it that following day. If you're not, don't charge it. That's all you need to do to care for your battery.
Wouldn't agree on that. No need to charge over 80% when you only do short distances regularly and can charge at home. The positive effects with keeping cell voltages below maximum are proven and any unnecessary wear on car batteries should be avoided.
@@AsekiBekovy If its a Tesla, I agree. But most EVs don't have the ability to limit SoC so waking up at 2am to unplug the car is totally unreasonable. The BMS looks after the battery for you and is (in most cases) designed to only charge to 100%. The BMS keeps a buffer to protect the pack. This video above shows that it works and charging to 100% has no effect in the real world.
Reviews that I have seen of the current Ioniq 5 give around about 2.9 miles per kWh. You are getting 4.7. Has battery efficiency deteriorated or are they mistaken?
It's the aerodynamics of this original vs the ioniq 5 plus weight is hugely different and therefore the rolling resistance of the heavy duty tyres too.
Battery deterioration and miles per kwh are two different things. The ioniq 5 is a big heavy boxy car compared to the original ioniq which is smaller, lighter and very aerodynamic due to its streamline design. I get around 3.8-4.5 miles per kwh with my 64kwh kona electric and 5.1 is possible in summer. Motorway speeds and cold rainy weather ruins efficiency. 3.1 is reasonable for ioniq 5 but I reckon 3.5 is more than achievable.
As others have said, the Ioniq 5 is huge and a bit like comparing a Range Rover to the Ioniq 28kWh. The original Ioniq is all about efficiency - its light, aerodynamic and even has the spoiler across the back window to help. The mistake they made was calling the new one "Ioniq". There is no similarity between the Ioniq and the Ioniq 5 at all.
I noticed you said that you can achieve 126 miles with your heat on well I was curious do you have a heat pump on yours because I have the same car you have but I do not have a heat pump and I get in the worst case 80 miles in brutal cold weather to 100 miles in the winter time with my heat on set at 75°
Now the LFP batteries chemistry from BYD and CATL, will have double this longevity, those batteries will last for 500,000 km before seeing any degradation, and they are much much safer you can see videos about them on youtube, I own ioniq EV and I'm waiting for EV car with LFP battery to replace mine with, the ICE cars time is over literally
I’m the exact opposite that can’t charge at home so have only used fast AC or Rapid DC chargers. I’ve covered 9,000 miles in 13 months and the electrified app says the my battery state of health is 98% However I believe that the first year is the worst for battery degradation so should slow going forward. I’ll let you know at 24 and 36 months.
Yes it is pretty accurate. But the range meter is based on recent driving economy, not on temperature. But of course it also adjusts/compensates as you drive, if your driving economy is vastly different from the day before. Personally after driving EVs for many years now, I don't take any notice of the range. On my EV I just have a battery charge percentage displayed rather than the actual range. I treat it no different to an ICE car...just drive and think about where I'm going to charge if it drops below about 15%.
I think most people don't drive 150 miles on a single journey most of the time. Certainly that's the case for me. In my ICE car, I take roughly one trip per year that I would need to recharge en route for, if I had an electric car. I'm just waiting for the prices to come down into my budget range, but the next car WILL be all electric for me.
Exactly. Most people are the same, but will concentrate on that long annual trip they make and use it for a reason not to get an EV. Of course EVs can do the long trip too, but will just need a top up when you stop at the motorway services.
I don’t even need 150 miles here in Hong Kong it only takes around an hour to drive around the whole place but everyone still drives a Tesla. Great video writing this to help your algorithm 👍
Glad you found it useful. If you want to see more on the Ioniq Electric, see playlist ruclips.net/p/PLW0oq-rvufntC8Qk6ONQjJ7nncwqhp9LL as there's more on there on their batteries and more videos being added all the time.
Hey everyone! Bought myself a 2017 model Ioniq in July last year. While it was planned to get a proper charger installed at home it turned out it was going to take a lot of time for som reason, so i finally got it last month. From July until now I’ve had to almost exclusively charge on fast charger 1-3 times a week. A few times I’ve had the chance to use the trickle charger or use the ones my friends got. Should i be worried about the battery state of health? Car has only gone 38000km, 29000 when I bought it new.
I'm looking to buy a 2018 Ioniq this weekend, to drink to work and back it is 140 miles, 120 miles is motorway driving. The battery range according to Autotrader is 173 miles, would I get this, as.your screen indicates 124 miles.
The official range (using the NEDC test cycle) is 174 miles. However in the real world, it is around 140-150 miles in the summer, but with efficient driving you can get more and some drivers have even achieved the NEDC figure with very careful driving. Range is always less in the winter due to colder temperatures and heating use and can be up to 20% less. The range you can achieve with a full battery at different average driving economies is: 6.0 mpkWh (super efficient city driving) = 168 miles 5.5 mpkWh (efficient summer driving) = 154 miles 4.5 mpkWh (average driving) = 126 miles 4.0 mpkWh (efficient winter driving) = 112 miles 3.5 mpkWh (very cold winter driving) = 98 miles
@@GoGreenAutos thank you for that information, it was very helpful. The price I would be paying for the Ioniq is £420 a month PCP, which is less than how much diesel I put in my car. If I add around £80 for a months electricity it brings the Ioniq to the same par as the diesel.
@@GENERALWA5TE I would think hard about entering in to a PCP on a EV, as they're keeping their value so well and to date, they've all gone up. You could find that you've paid thousands in PCP payments to own nothing at the end, whereas if you took a personal loan out, you have an asset that you keep and could be worth about the same as what you paid for it or only depreciated by a small amount. I've had our 2017 Ioniq for 2 years and 4 months, done plenty of miles in it and its now worth £2K more than it cost. It might be another 2-3 years before it starts to depreciate, due to the demand for used EVs. I'd feel sick if I was paying all that money to a finance company when the value hasn't dropped.
@@GoGreenAutos was made redundant so was a Skoda rapid diesel. However after 16 months and rising fuel prices I now have a 2017 30kw leaf. Love it much better than expected but still not an ioniq in many ways.
![VENEZUELA vs. ARGENTINA [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SJfoPdeOPCQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I own a 2017 one with 94000km on it. I love it. I recently went on an EU road trip to the eastern parts, 3200km holiday without any problem at all. If you keep slow-charging it and keep the charge below 80% it will last a very long time.
Impressive. Mine that is from 2018 has done 98000km and when I do a similar test I come to the figure that my degradation is around 7-8%. Maximum usable is for me is 25,5kwh. Mine hade done quite a lot of fast charging and that certainly ads up. It proves to some extent that if you take care of the battery it last very long time🙂
Mine was put on the road Feb. 2018 and have done 48000 km, and it sees close to no degradation.
I have the same experience with my Ioniq 2018. 64000 km driven only by me. But the car was the show car at the car dealer so I think it was abused a bit in the beginning. However I do not really experince the degrade when driving longer trips anyways so still I am super pleased with my car
Interesting and useful, we have a 2016 Ioniq, so I am very pleased to hear about the state of the battery. We live in the French countryside, and can charge at home and find, as you do yourself the range is fine for day to day trips.
Bought a 2018 Hyundai Ioniq last week with 67,000 miles on the clock. The car was always charged at home with the previous owner
This video gives me confidence!
Just curious, how much did you pay for the car?
Great review.
Bought one of these 2019 model last year. Absolutely brilliant car from efficiency and comfort levels. If you can cope with the local range for 95% of the time would highly recommend.
Best EV out there below £25K.
@@cazza6944 Sorry, I don't know what is a suitable app, as I don't use them. We have an Autel diagnostic scanner which does this job. Join the Ioniq Facebook Group and ask there. But really, you don't need to worry about the batteries on these.
Thanks for this great video. It goes a long way to convincing people that they really don't need to wait for longer range cars before switching to an EV.
Actually it convinced me of the reverse! I have a regular 180 mile trip (=360 both ways...)
Very nicely explained, as usual. I'm still impressed how efficient the Ioniq Electric still is. Despite all the new models, only the upcoming Mercedes EQXX will be more efficient than Tesla and Hyundai.
Thanks for watching!
The speed of rapid charging of the Ioniq is another benefit. In the cold the other day I needed to charge to go out (emergency, not had the car plugged in at night) I went to the nearest local 50kW rapid (a Lidl 50kW PodPoint 3 miles across town, so still cold battery) and went from 24% to 80% in 23 minutes drawing a pretty constant 47.5kW. It slows after that to draw about 25-30kW until it stops at an indicated 93%. Find any rapid that can do more than that and the old Ioniq can nearly draw 70kW and that is really speedy to charge!
Also interesting is your battery SoC as reported by the BMS. My 40,000 mile Ioniq reads 94.5% when it is at 100%. So I think there is some loss for both our cars in the buffer from new but I've not seen a reliable reading of a 'new' Ioniq to know what the original buffer was - I think it must be around 7%, reading 93%? Still, at this rate the things won't be dropping any range until they are well into the 150,000 miles or so!
Any Ioniq owner can read the BMS by using a Bluetooth OBD reader and EVNotify, Car Scanner Pro (a paid app) or canIoniq.
Asking for comments and why is much more honest than some RUclipsrs. Nice anytime, but a motor trader.... Keep up the good work, I enjoy your channel.
Thanks
I have one of these and they are a great EV for the price (used, of course). Mine's the same year as yours and has only done 15,000 miles! I hope to put more mileage on it when covid goes away! Great review as always.
Thanks.
A great video. Really helps build confidence for those of us who have yet to make the switch to electric. I have driven Hyundai petrol cars since 2012 and they have been super reliable, although my annual mileage is only 6,000. Hyundai/Kia EV's seem to be superb for reliability, maintenance and long term use.
Great review and good information for people to use in their decisions on ev’s. Very impressed with this cars use of the battery over 90k. 👍👍
Good work for educating people about electric cars. Keep it on :)
ps I have Ioniq 2018 electric so learned a lot about it from your videos
Thanks.
This makes me feel very confident in our recently bought Kona electric.
Many thanks for the in dept review. We have recently bought the same model and year Ioniq second hand and are excited to start experiencing life with an electric car!
Hi Matt, thanks for your video very interesting I pick up a Hyundai Ionic 38 KW Premium SE on Monday so good to see just how efficient and longlasting the Battery Packs are. I'm getting a new 22 plate car so I hope it gives me many years of driving.
My 38kWh 69 plate has done 37k miles almost faultlessly. Charger interlock needed replacing that’s about it. Thinking I’ll keep it. (Had a new MG4 for 3 weeks before it was rejected)
Great video. Nice to see you addressing the claim that the batteries don't last. I have an Ioniq 38kwh and love it. I have only had it since December and two longer journeys. Once M-way Services get their acts together with sufficient DC charging, even longer journeys will become stress free. However, when you check the charging apps you will find plenty of charging options just off the M-way. I recommend that; also cheaper.
"Driving many litres arround which will be needed in two weeks." So true. I like the old Ioniq but can't afford it .... for now.... 😜 Thanks for the informative video. 🙏
Thank you for a very helpful and informative. If any person questions your facts after such an in-depth review, then they will not be readily converted to an EV for another 2 - 4 years. Their loss.
Brilliant and very patient and thorough presentation of most of the factual realities I often struggle to get people to understand or receive fairly toxic replies to. I already own the same car (2018 Premium) and plan on keeping it perpetually and also buying another if I can find one of the very last delivered to Denmark with a low mileage.
Thanks. Looking forward to the anti-EV comments on this video too. Many will just its impossible again.
Hy, I bought a 2018 Ioniq, I'm very very happy with my car :). I saw some of your videos, and that also ensured me to buy this car.
Thanks for these great content! Ioniq is a LEGEND :D Last time I did a 180 km trip to our relatives (80+20+80) without charging, and it works perfectly around 0-5 degrees of Celsius. and the Battery had still 20 km more range.
Glad the videos helped. Got more Ioniq videos stacked up for upcoming releases here, so do susbscribe.
Thanks for making this video, really helpful to someone like me who has just bought their first electric car and plan to keep it for a fair few years 👍
Glad you found it useful/reassuring. Plenty of others on the channel too ruclips.net/user/GoGreenAutosvideos
Thank you for you real world review on this car, I'm in a position to buy an EV now and although I had my heart set on a model 3, with the recent price increase and the 9 to 12 month wait list in Australia I am looking at other EV's. Thanks to your video and the fact the Ioniq electric has now been given a battery upgrade to 38kw/h I think I'm sold.
Excellent Content, Excellent RUclips Channel, Excellent Explanation & Just Sticking to Showing & Explaining the Facts. Facts Always Speak 🗣 for themselves. Thank You 🙏. I have a 2021Hyundai Kona & just love it. The previous few years of these had a Lifetime Warranty on the Battery 🔋 this is the reason I got this Kona. Even though we don’t have the Lifetime Warranty on the Battery 🔋 it’s still the same battery 🔋 as the previous years when it did have the Lifetime Warranty. 🍻 👊 🇺🇸
Engagement . 👍
Good video. I was beginning to have doubts about battery life and to be honest your Tesla videos scared me off as I worry ordinary people may not have gotten the same service under warranty from the manufacturer. We have two cars and an nv200 all diesel due to be replaced. Thanks for the advice.
Yes my Tesla videos let the side down a bit, but I'm here to tell the truth about EVs. Tesla got it wrong with the early 85kWh packs, which they have fixed and its not the norm. All manufacturers make mistakes sometimes.
Nice video. 100% going electric next time:) Makes me less worried about the battery after seing this video:)
Good :)
Thank you very much for this very detailed video. I have found this very useful and also consistent with my own experience, being an Ioniq owner myself.
Great EVs aren't they?
@@GoGreenAutos
I have it since 2 years ago and I am still very hppy with it despite the new models available today 👍
Thanks for all analysis and testing. Amazing pack technology. I do not understand why Nissan, VW, BMW, Tesla, etc. could not have copied this cell chemistry.
now the LFP batteries chemistry from BYD and CTAL, will have double this longevity, those batteries will last for 500,000 km before seeing any degradation, and they are much much safer you can see videos about them on youtube, the ICE cars time is over literally
Thanks a lot for explaining these issues, I just bought this model and I'm soooo happy with my purchase. Your suggestions and explanations are invaluable to me. all the best and good luck developing the channel. Greetings from Poland
Hi from New Zealand- I’ve managed to get hold of a 2018 for a reasonable price - found your video’s very helpful.👍. Btw - love the car it’s awesome. Cheers Dave
Great to hear!
Great insight into the longevity. It would be great to see the same with the ZS EV.
Very interesting video. I would have bought one of these but they were not available recently. I have now got a Soul Maxx EV and am very happy with it...
Great review and love your work. Please keep doing these EV awareness videos to help educate others.
This is such a helpful video, Matt, thanks.
You mentioned floods which made me want to ask: is there any reason to be concerned about driving through deep water?
You've really made me fancy one of those, we did get out to look at a new one last summer just so I could get an idea of the size. I watched your "packing the boot" video but I was still surprised how big a car it is, even the size of the tyres, though I think they might have been twenty inch wheels which is a bit excessive!
Probably can't make the change until '24 but I'm hoping the secondhand market will have calmed down a bit by then... I'm sure I'll have made my mind up between this and the e-Niro by then 😂
No concern about driving thru deep water. EVs are better than ICE vehicles as there's no engine air intake, but obviously you have to be sensible. The Ioniq has 16" wheels.
@@GoGreenAutos thanks Matt, that's good to know, had a feeling it would be OK but it's good to hear it from someone with experience.
I guess that new Ioniq must have just looked bigger in the showroom. Or maybe it's just that I'm driving a Skoda Roomster which is a bit dinky and old school! Looking forward to the time I can get on your mailing list, only a couple of years now...
A very interesting real world video that raised some important questions in my mind:
- As regards the battery analysis: what happens if one or more of those numerous cells has failed? - What would be the cost of repairing/replacing them? Or is the whole battery a failed unit? In which case what is the cost of replacement? And can any of these repairs be done at a local dealership?
- Also, a couple of points that came to my mind when listening to the comments about charging stations being available at service stations & garden centres:
1) When Harry Metcalfe (Harry's Garage channel/ ex Evo mag MD) took an EV to from Oxford to London and back last year - he couldn't find a charging station that was available, or that worked but didn't require subscribing to a 'specific App' in order to use it. Leaving him unable to charge his car.
- Is it still the case that you can't pay to charge by credit card as you would for petrol? i.e.: you have to have an App, as well as a finding a compatible charging station?
2) The cost of electricity is going up rapidly. Some predictions are a 50+% increase in April this year (from Martin Lewis - Money expert), in which case will it be as cost effective per mile as a petrol car?
Thanks for the video.
Battery repairs - not something a dealership can do. But other can. See ruclips.net/video/Ws9Y1be8N-U/видео.html where a Leaf battery is refurbished for only £500. More of this will come as a market develops.
Public charging - All the newer chargers now have chip & pin payment, so you just tap your card on the machine to use them. Some still require apps, but its easy. If you have an EV, its just part of the course. I only have 4 apps on my phone and that covers all the networks I ever use.
Yes electricity is going up. But it is still vastly cheaper than petrol, which is also going up. £10 of fuel gets you about 800 miles in an EV, if you charge overnight on cheap rate electricity, but only about 56 miles in a diesel! Charge on public chargers or daytime rates and you'll still get about 167 miles in an EV. This is based on an average economy of 4mpkWh and charging on an overnight EV tariff at 5p per kWh or a public or daytime rate of 24p per kWh. Diesel comparison based on an average economy of 40mpg with a fuel cost of £1.56 per litre.
@@GoGreenAutos Thank you for your prompt responnse to my questions.
Whilst it might be possible for a small cottage industry to fix some EV batteries, the fact that a main dealer does not have the facilities to repair one of the most important components in the car (i.e. the battery cells) is a cause of concern in my view, even if the public charging stations were all working perfectly.
I called into a Tesla dealer recently and asked them the same question regarding batterie cells - their reply was: "we never sell, or buy a used Tesla unless its under warranty, as our dealerships cannot repair the batteries". Which left me wondering - what happens to a Tesla's value (from a main dealerships view) when the battery warranty has expired? And what happens to all those batteries that cannot be repaired - do they go to landfill?
Until I can see that a main dealer can repair all of the key components in the vehicle in an enviromental way, I remain on the fence with EV's. But I will keep watching your videos for when that day comes.
@@johnny-S In Norway, which is far ahead in EV adoption, Teslas are fixed by independent garages.
Check Björn Nyland on RUclips.
As previously stated very well put together. Really appreciate the honest informative review. Made me think about what range I would really need for my use on a day to day basis. Very keen to move into the EV world and TBH it’s the initial purchase cost that is stopping me. I know you would advise there are plenty of second hand models out there but I do like to be the first owner so I know how treated from day one. However the reliability of Hyundai is really impressive and no perceivable degradation from battery after 89k miles very reassuring. Currently all second hand car prices a bit crazy at minute bu5 as new supply eventually improves I reckon the newer Hyundai and Kia’s will be the one’s to watch. Great work.
Nice video bang on the button when it comes to information, petty these are too big for my garage.
Thanks.
Thanks for a great video.
I had an Ioniq PHEV for 3 years and that too was very economical.
I have now bought an MG5 LR about 3 months ago, not as efficient as the Ioniq but a good range of 250 miles wltp which I'm hoping to achieve in the summer🤞.
I had one person tell me even though they did not own a ev, they said that my battery in the car after 3 year would not be 100 %
but I get 147 mile to my battery today
may be the different temp may be due to the location of the cells in the pack ones on the outside of the pack could have cold air closer to it
I hope that i get the same 100% in the future when i have done 89k .
I totally agree with what you say on range and use, I do get sick of people complain about range and charging up. there was a taycan driver who waited till the morning he was going to Scotland long trip, charged up at 9am to 100% on a 50kw charger. then complained he could not get to were he was going because it got dark at 6pm. and he had to charge a lot all to 100%.
1 fact your car needs washing heheheheh
Thanks for sharing. Agree fully with the main point which is that 120 miles gives plenty of range for real day to day life. On the calculation of remaining capacity, from what I see on my Ioniq there is c8% to 9% charging losses so wouldn't that mean accessible capacity in this instance is 24.65÷.78x0.92= 29.1 kWh to be compared with gross capacity of 30.5 kWh, so not quite 100% but still very good and not noticeable?
I didn't think charging losses were as much as that.
Excellent quality video, it’s pushed me away from a Leaf to one of these!
Yes, they're technically much better than a Leaf. Plenty of other Ioniq videos on this channel to help with your discovery, see ruclips.net/user/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
Another excellent video. I am jealous, my i3 only does 100 miles on 27 kwh in winter at 70 mph.
Compared to some of the things I see folk with MG's posting about their range in the winter - that's good!
@@FFVoyager i3 is a BMW not MG.
Glad I haven't got to worry about any of this, nor do I have to worry how much the government are going to charge UK drivers for driving on the roads, still, be interesting to see how much money they will charge
Great video, well explained and as an EV driver myself I have to say the ionic is more efficient than our Kia eNiro.
Thanks. Yes the Ioniq is probably the most efficient EV and probably better than the Model 3.
Impressive, and encouraging for its longevity. Kia and Hyundai have established a pretty good record for reliability.
My regular long distance run is 180 miles, all motorway bar perhaps 3 miles so I'd be looking at something with over 2 x this battery capacity and/or much faster charging. Whilst I'd typically stop once or twice in that journey, it literally is a 10 minute break to walk to the toilet, stretch or buy a drink, so ideally I'd only need to charge at either end. A BMW i4 is appealing but I'm about £45k short of the required cash!
You really can't beat a Tesla for long distance driving in the UK because of their SuperCharging network.
I’ve been considering one of these for a while for when my ICE car goes back in September, unfortunately the used market is a mess. I saw 28kwh versions going for £13/4K 1 year ago and now they are £18k+ !!
That's right. They've all gone up a lot, but then so have all used cars - both EVs and ICE. The Ioniq Electric is in particular high demand, so I expect prices will stay high. The message is finally getting out about how good these are...probably because of all the videos I've made. :-)
@@GoGreenAutos I did feel they were cheap for how good they are, maybe the price nowadays is more like what they should have been fetching a year ago. I’ll wait it out and hopefully prices will calm down over the next several months 👍🏻
@@dan123collins Yes they were too cheap. The Ioniq is worth more than a similar year Leaf and finally they are getting there. The 28kWh Ioniq can do the same range as a 40kWh Leaf and has better battery, pack thermal management and more equipment.
@@GoGreenAutos always worth mentioning the drawbacks compared to the LEAF too, for me the 360 camera is a very useful feature, as is the remote climate control via the app. Neither are possible with the ioniq, but they also weren't deal-breakers for me (I moved from a LEAF30 to an Ioniq 28), but I think worth mentioning.. And also the boot access on the ioniq is awful, having to retract the cover manually each time, and barely being able to get a large shopping bag in due to the lack of height once the load cover is drawn back into place.
My 2017 Ioniq28 still has the 28kWh available, but if I calculate from the BMS numbers, it seems to have about 94% of original capacity. But that is still enough to give you 28kWh. Nearing 90k km. And my car has taken some beating, when I drove it from Bergen Norway to Pontevedra Spain in summer 2019 only quick charging.
I'll try to explain the difference between capacity and SoH again. The info you get off the tester is very helpful for this purpose.
All SoH = 100% tells you is that all the cells behave the same way within a very narrow margin. I.e. SoH may occasionally dip below 100% and then recover as you charge to 100% and let it do its thing. The battery will loose capacity as it's SoH dips, and regain this loss as SoH recovers. That's because some, and in some instances most, cells are no longer being fully charged as SoH dips. If SoH no longer recovers, you permanently loose capacity too. However, you also loose usable capacity while your SoH still sits at 100% and this is by and large irreversible, and it certainly happened to the battery you are reading out in this video, because physics. SoH isn't a measure of battery capacity, but one of battery balance.
To understand capacity and loss of usable capacity, you first need to understand top and bottom buffers. Your tester tells you, your display state of charge is 99% and your actual state of charge is 94%, meaning your top and bottom buffers are around 5% combined. Well, if your usable capacity is 28kWh and your total capacity is 30.5kWh, that should be closer to 9%, right? Now that's in terms of energy content, but in reality the buffer is a safety margin in charge and discharge voltage. The LiPo cells in the Ioniq's battery get destroyed once you discharge them below 2.5V or charge them above 4.35V, or thereabouts. The cell manufacturer packs a safety margin into the specified charge and discharge voltage for the capacity and lifecycles he has to guarantee. Lets say 3.0V to 4.3V. The energy stored between 4.3V and 3.0V is the total capacity. Hyundai pack their own margin on top of that, say 3.5V to 4.1V. That's the buffer. Obviously, the relationship between voltage and capacity is not linear. There's very little energy between 3.0V and 3.5V, maybe 1-2%. The curve drops off a cliff at around 3.7V to 3.5V. There also isn't very much between 4.1V and 4.3V, maybe 6-10%. You can see that of the 1.3V total voltage difference representing total capacity, 0.7V go into the buffers, and only 0.6V into usable capacity. Degradation kinda shrinks available energy per volt, and it's a little worse at the top than at the bottom. It's curve, so to speak is somewhere between voltage and capacity. You should expect to have lost about 3-5% of total capacity in the top buffer zone and about 5-10% in the usable energy zone and basically nothing in the bottom buffer. In other words, you lost probably half your top buffer and about 15km/10mi of range. Because you lost most of that in the first few charging cycles, you should be good for another 100k miles before you actually start noticing a difference.
Excellent explanation, thank you.
@@GoGreenAutos Thanks for replying! I intended to split my comment into two, to help your channel a bit, so here's part two:
@@GoGreenAutos In this second part I will try to explain where you made the "mistake" in your assessment. It's really quite simple, you still have 16mi range left on the guessometer and you are at 15% SoC. The problem is, the guessometer in both miles and % left is based on voltage, and it's linear. As I explained earlier, capacity represented by this voltage is not linear, and the information presented to you are therefore false. Had you continued driving on, those 16 miles would have turned out to be only 6 or so, because at that point, voltages drops into the abyss without releasing much more energy. That was always the case, that's not where you loose usable energy, but when the battery was new, you would still have had 25 miles left instead of 16. Because you only used the battery down to 15% instead of all the way to 1%, you think you have 15% left, when in reality it's maybe 5%-8%, and that's where the loss of usable energy hides.
@@adrianguggisberg3656 I don't agree with this. The guessometer is pretty good in the Ioniq and when it says 16 miles left, the reality is that it will probably do 18 miles actually, if you're willing to push it past the point in which it goes to "---".
@@GoGreenAutos Oh, and there's another point I want to mention. You can't really assess capacity by charging, you need to measure it by discharging. And you have done it. You drove 103 miles and your consumption was 4.7 miles to the kWh, which in turn means you discharged 22kWh from your usable battery capacity. Since you started at 99% and ended up at 15%, that means 84% are 22kWh and thus 100% are 26kWh. If you assume 15% are actually 8% and therefore 22kWh are 91%, then 100% turn out to be 24kWh and your battery lost about 15% of usable capacity. That makes sense, because a 28kWh battery can't give you 28kWh at this temperature, even if it's still at 100%, because physics. You thus lost about 8%-ish of usable capacity, which is what I predicted it would have in the earlier video, because that's what they all have.
However, this battery is now in the middle of a very long, very stable phase. You will loose 1%-2% per year for many years to come, which is basically nothing. It's going to take ages before you'll even start persuading yourself you might be noticing a difference. I still confidently believe this is the best engineered EV battery pack with the best, highest quality cells known to man in any EV to this day.
That’s interesting to know, my 28Kw Ioniq is at 25,000 miles , only charge at normal rates never rapid charged , mine is 2018 (68) , I have read 5.5M/KWH on dash so my battery will most probably read @ 100%, fabulous motor.
I also understand that 2018 and earlier are Korean batteries, but it’s soon after they fitted Chinese batteries in some which were apparently problematic .
Very interesting, thank you for the analysis. Gives me confidence to buy a 2nd hand one
Thanks for the info, I'll be looking for some info on using an electric vehicle to send electric power back to the house, not sure if you've done a video on that yet.
No, not done any videos on V2L or V2G. Only some of the very latest EVs have V2L. The Nissan Leaf with chademo charging can do V2G, but you need a DC charger at home, such as the Wallbox Quasar.
Good measurement. Impressive car.
You should use the OBD kWh charged. It was on the listed data.
The wallbox is including the charge losses.
So not the really effective needed kWh for driving.
Yes, I missed that one. But even so, it proved that the full 28kWh (or 30.5kW) can go back into the pack, after some small losses.
@@GoGreenAutos And therefore the conclusion stands :-)
Good review of an older ev, it shows hyundai use good batteries. It will be interesting to see if all ev batteries last as well, particularly ones that have been rapid charged regularly.
From my experience of seeing many used EVs, frequent DC charging as no noticeable affect on batteries..in the real world. I know of ex-taxi Leaf that has had 6,500 DC charges and its battery is the same as any other at the same age.
Try to test with "aviloo battery diagnostics". 100% SOH after 5 years and 80,000miles still true. I have the same car, at no last test in July 2021 with ~70,000km it still had ~96% effective usable capacity, so just under 25kWh.
Great video. Love your video's! Was very helpfull in my search for an IONIQ and i3. The BMS measurements you did are also interesting. Unfortunately I do seem to have one or more cells in my IONIQ that are faulty and have a 0,12V deviation from other cells. This is measured at 1% SoC. My car has done 167.000 km, so a little more than yours. What's your professional opinion on this?
If you are interested. I participated in a test from a Dutch car reviewer. They also posted it on RUclips. ruclips.net/video/WD5mr_Tug28/видео.html
Like your videos. Really fancy one of these.👍
Glad you like them!
Very Helpful! How long do you recommend for Preconditioning in winter? I'm in London so it doesn't usually go below -3 C. Should we set the car to winter mode? (39kwh premium SE)
I don't think winter mode really applies to UK temperatures as I seem to remember that only kicks in when really cold (i.e. Scandinavian temperatures).
As for pre-conditioning, just set the time when you want to drive and it sorts it out. It will typically come on around 20 mins before you leave.
Greeetings from Denmark- very good information, maybe I am a new Electric carowner.....
Another informative video!
Many EV's now come with an 8 year battery warranty. So manufacturers must be confident the batteries will easily last this long.
On average a car is scrapped after 12 years. I suspect with a modern BMS, batteries are now likely to out-live the car.
Yes, by a long way.
16 years in Sweden
4.1 volts is 90% and 1000 cycles for 80% remaining capacity. That's around 200,000 miles before it would be described as needing replacement. But left standing or low mileage could be worse condition.
Really interesting analysis, Matt -- would you expect the larger 64 kW units on the newer cars to age as well after this sort of high mileage? I've been looking at the Kona EV with the longer range 64 kWh battery ....
Should do yes as they all use similar pack technology.
@@garysmith5025 Excellent, Gary, thank you. It appears the power packs' longevity is both stable, and the degradation seems to be relatively low. Good to know, and interesting that they're being used in Scotland in that way.
I only drive to work and do a bit of shopping on a Saturday.
I also cycle sometimes.
5 miles each way to work = 50 miles per week.
Approx. 13 miles on a Saturday, I pick my Mum up and take her also.
50+13=63 miles per week.
With a range of 125 miles in the Winter I could go 2 weeks on a full charge 😮!
28kWh at 17p per kWh = £4.76!!
3.8 pence per mile.
There's no way in hell a petrol or diesel car can match that.
The only problem is I will never be able to afford to buy one ☹.
And most EV drivers use a cheap rate night tariff for four hours at 5p per kWh, so it brings it down to £1.40 !
I'm actually considering one, because of the fast charging speed - it should be good for longer journeys too.
What would you say is the ideal speed for long range driving / fast charging (e.g. a 300 mile trip)?
Thanks for the video!
As with any car, the faster you go, the more fuel it uses, due to the air resistance. However, the Ioniq is very aerodynamic and efficient so performs better than most, if not all. But as always, driving at 65mph, rather than 70mph will save fuel and extend range. Driving at 60 will save more.
For long drives, just try to keep at 65 or less and charge when the battery is as low as you can risk it. It will charge faster if it is empty.
I think I might prefer one of these to a newer one with a bigger battery. 4.7 Is a pretty amazing number by any standards.
3.29 looking at the cumulative charge kWh
23783.4 kwh / pack size 28 kWh = total charge cycles 849.4
You will probably get 1200/1500 before 80% DOD 👍 so about half way through the useable life cycle not bad
Looking at this video, made me consider cheaper Hyundai or Kia EV. You are right, People are stressed about EV not having more than 325miles on range. But this is a misunderstanding of what range they really need. It's like money, everyone wants more and more. Not satisfied with what they have.
If you can charge at home overnight, then you the EV just needs the range of a day's driving. Typically, in the UK, that is only around 25 miles. So an EV like this Ioniq, does 3 times that. As I've shown on this video ruclips.net/video/ib-eV-Uat6M/видео.html, the car has only had a couple of DC rapid chargers in the last 1.5 years.
Hi matt. Thinking of buying one of these 38k version. With new cars such as mg4 do you think its still worth considering? 170 mile range of ioniq vs 212 of mg4. Also kess faster charging with ioniq. Would love your views
The Ioniq is super efficient, so you can actually get 228 miles out of them in the summer, if driven efficiently and 190 miles easily without even trying. You'd have to look at both and try and feel them. But the Ioniq is better quality, higher spec and quite a bit cheaper now. But overall, pretty similar EVs. I've not driven an MG4 yet, but sat in them, and also owned a ZS for a year or so. Personally, I'd say the Ioniq has the edge. Our 28kWh had done 102,000 miles when we swapped it for the 38kWh and the only thing that was replaced on it was one ABS sensor, apart from tyres and wiper blades.
What is this notification sound? 14:40
I am curious what that is responsible for
Thanks c:
Thats the dash cam turning on and off
Always impressed with this cars efficiency, for me it’s just the battery needs to be a bit bigger so it is capable of nearer 200. I think any that can achieve close to 200 is more than enough (I’m very pro electric, not one of the crew who want a few hundred miles per charge). On a separate note, how fast was rapid charge when it was needed?
These can charge up to 65kW. I will make a video one day, but rarely DC charge this car now.
I drive exactly the same one but it's is black. Only niggle I have with the car is... Bad winter hearing in the car. Luckily it does have heated seats (even the back seats are heated) and a heated steering wheel.
Great review.
Did you charge it to full in all the years of use? or did you limit it to 80% like it is recommended?
The MG ZS I own doesn't have SOC limiter and I am quite tired of waking up at 2AM to unplug it.
Always to 100%.
Life is too short to be messing around like that. Just charge to 100% if you're intending to use it that following day. If you're not, don't charge it. That's all you need to do to care for your battery.
Wouldn't agree on that. No need to charge over 80% when you only do short distances regularly and can charge at home. The positive effects with keeping cell voltages below maximum are proven and any unnecessary wear on car batteries should be avoided.
@@AsekiBekovy If its a Tesla, I agree. But most EVs don't have the ability to limit SoC so waking up at 2am to unplug the car is totally unreasonable. The BMS looks after the battery for you and is (in most cases) designed to only charge to 100%. The BMS keeps a buffer to protect the pack. This video above shows that it works and charging to 100% has no effect in the real world.
@@GoGreenAutos the greater the buffer, the smaller the wear. I think most cars have charging timers you can use instead of limiters.
Reviews that I have seen of the current Ioniq 5 give around about 2.9 miles per kWh. You are getting 4.7. Has battery efficiency deteriorated or are they mistaken?
It's the aerodynamics of this original vs the ioniq 5 plus weight is hugely different and therefore the rolling resistance of the heavy duty tyres too.
Battery deterioration and miles per kwh are two different things.
The ioniq 5 is a big heavy boxy car compared to the original ioniq which is smaller, lighter and very aerodynamic due to its streamline design.
I get around 3.8-4.5 miles per kwh with my 64kwh kona electric and 5.1 is possible in summer.
Motorway speeds and cold rainy weather ruins efficiency.
3.1 is reasonable for ioniq 5 but I reckon 3.5 is more than achievable.
As others have said, the Ioniq 5 is huge and a bit like comparing a Range Rover to the Ioniq 28kWh. The original Ioniq is all about efficiency - its light, aerodynamic and even has the spoiler across the back window to help. The mistake they made was calling the new one "Ioniq". There is no similarity between the Ioniq and the Ioniq 5 at all.
I noticed you said that you can achieve 126 miles with your heat on well I was curious do you have a heat pump on yours because I have the same car you have but I do not have a heat pump and I get in the worst case 80 miles in brutal cold weather to 100 miles in the winter time with my heat on set at 75°
Yes all Ioniqs have heat pumps in the UK.
Thanks, damn good information about a great car.
Ok so that was a cracking video cheers
Thanks
Can you do SOH for the larger battery? And have you gotten the coolant issue sorted?
Yes I will do. And no, the coolant recall job gets done on 10th July.
4 hours to do 126 miles? So, creeping along at a crawling pace it does 126 miles. How far would it have gone on a motorway?
Now the LFP batteries chemistry from BYD and CATL, will have double this longevity, those batteries will last for 500,000 km before seeing any degradation, and they are much much safer you can see videos about them on youtube, I own ioniq EV and I'm waiting for EV car with LFP battery to replace mine with, the ICE cars time is over literally
Love to see if an ICE car still runs as efficiently after 90k miles as it did when it was new.
Exactly. And think of all the burnt fuel, oil changes, brakes pads & discs, plugs, belts etc that would have been used.
I’m the exact opposite that can’t charge at home so have only used fast AC or Rapid DC chargers. I’ve covered 9,000 miles in 13 months and the electrified app says the my battery state of health is 98%
However I believe that the first year is the worst for battery degradation so should slow going forward. I’ll let you know at 24 and 36 months.
Is that in an Ioniq?
Its like an ICE car, depending on road conditions and temps, the variables decrease or increase and EV's are precisly the same battery wise.
A good video and usful.
Is the range meter accurate in all temps? I'd like to see you set the trip meter to zero, and drive it down to 10%, to show the accuracy.
Yes it is pretty accurate. But the range meter is based on recent driving economy, not on temperature. But of course it also adjusts/compensates as you drive, if your driving economy is vastly different from the day before. Personally after driving EVs for many years now, I don't take any notice of the range. On my EV I just have a battery charge percentage displayed rather than the actual range. I treat it no different to an ICE car...just drive and think about where I'm going to charge if it drops below about 15%.
I think most people don't drive 150 miles on a single journey most of the time. Certainly that's the case for me. In my ICE car, I take roughly one trip per year that I would need to recharge en route for, if I had an electric car.
I'm just waiting for the prices to come down into my budget range, but the next car WILL be all electric for me.
Exactly. Most people are the same, but will concentrate on that long annual trip they make and use it for a reason not to get an EV. Of course EVs can do the long trip too, but will just need a top up when you stop at the motorway services.
I don’t even need 150 miles here in Hong Kong it only takes around an hour to drive around the whole place but everyone still drives a Tesla.
Great video writing this to help your algorithm 👍
Great video - thanks.
Glad you found it useful. If you want to see more on the Ioniq Electric, see playlist ruclips.net/p/PLW0oq-rvufntC8Qk6ONQjJ7nncwqhp9LL as there's more on there on their batteries and more videos being added all the time.
Hey everyone! Bought myself a 2017 model Ioniq in July last year. While it was planned to get a proper charger installed at home it turned out it was going to take a lot of time for som reason, so i finally got it last month. From July until now I’ve had to almost exclusively charge on fast charger 1-3 times a week. A few times I’ve had the chance to use the trickle charger or use the ones my friends got. Should i be worried about the battery state of health? Car has only gone 38000km, 29000 when I bought it new.
120 miles range X 1500 charges cycles to 80% DOD = 180,000 miles.
I'd say you have about another 100,000 to go before you notice and degredation 👍
where you would still probably be able to use it like before for another 100-200k
How is the long term review of the 2018 going now they are out of warranty?
We upgrade this to a 38kWh model about a year ago now.
But the 28kWh Ioniq is pretty bullet proof and no need to worry about being out of warranty.
Vers nice and reassuring
Very informative thank you
Very welcome
There is a value called "Cumulative energy charged", make a note of that before and after you charged. Then you have a value without Inverter loss.
Good point.
Is there a monthly battery monetary charge & any expensive servicing.
No.
I'm looking to buy a 2018 Ioniq this weekend, to drink to work and back it is 140 miles, 120 miles is motorway driving. The battery range according to Autotrader is 173 miles, would I get this, as.your screen indicates 124 miles.
The official range (using the NEDC test cycle) is 174 miles. However in the real world, it is around 140-150 miles in the summer, but with efficient driving you can get more and some drivers have even achieved the NEDC figure with very careful driving. Range is always less in the winter due to colder temperatures and heating use and can be up to 20% less.
The range you can achieve with a full battery at different average driving economies is:
6.0 mpkWh (super efficient city driving) = 168 miles
5.5 mpkWh (efficient summer driving) = 154 miles
4.5 mpkWh (average driving) = 126 miles
4.0 mpkWh (efficient winter driving) = 112 miles
3.5 mpkWh (very cold winter driving) = 98 miles
@@GoGreenAutos thank you for that information, it was very helpful. The price I would be paying for the Ioniq is £420 a month PCP, which is less than how much diesel I put in my car. If I add around £80 for a months electricity it brings the Ioniq to the same par as the diesel.
@@GENERALWA5TE I would think hard about entering in to a PCP on a EV, as they're keeping their value so well and to date, they've all gone up. You could find that you've paid thousands in PCP payments to own nothing at the end, whereas if you took a personal loan out, you have an asset that you keep and could be worth about the same as what you paid for it or only depreciated by a small amount.
I've had our 2017 Ioniq for 2 years and 4 months, done plenty of miles in it and its now worth £2K more than it cost. It might be another 2-3 years before it starts to depreciate, due to the demand for used EVs. I'd feel sick if I was paying all that money to a finance company when the value hasn't dropped.
Miss my ioniq.
What did you change it for?
@@GoGreenAutos was made redundant so was a Skoda rapid diesel. However after 16 months and rising fuel prices I now have a 2017 30kw leaf. Love it much better than expected but still not an ioniq in many ways.
ioniq is unbealiveably reliable
Quite a limited range per fully charged battery, but it is old by today's offerings
I have the 2017 Ioniq EV with 50,000 miles and my less scientific evaluation matches yours.
They're great EVs!
Has anyone have trouble with the fast charging for this car?
Stop upsetting EV haters 😁
Battery should last a long time. You will only be going to the supermarket.