I spent a few years in a large machine shop in Morehead City, NC, working on similar sized machines, really enjoy watching such work, my machine shop is much smaller but similar work on engines. I miss the old "big machines" most of the ones I've worked on were fifty years older than myself, some a century older.
Be sure to lower everything and raise it back up an inch or so that way all the backlash is out of everything everytime when you make your measurements and adjustments. The lucas looks so good with the bar in it! I wish my mill had come with one could have saved me a bunch of work over the past couple of weeks building one!
Excellent demonstration of stick-to-itiveness, Keith. One guy, big shop, big tools. Impressive! It will be wonderful to see the horizontal boring mill in action! Such a versatile machine!
Hello Keith, I have the same inside mic set as you except I think mine may be even bigger. I made a video about it a while ago. It will go out to 415 inches. Also similar to you, after two years of work my HBM should be running today as well. Ken
Always enjoy your videos Keith. I used to have to use a micrometer set similar to that one many years ago. I was taught to make sure that you screwed together the minimum number of rods needed to make the measurement. For example for a 900mm bore with the sets we had, I think we would have used 3 pieces, 1 at 600, 1 at 200 and the micrometer at 100. Less connections meant less chance of error.
Just refurbishing old machines like this is an artform. But can you imagine all the time and work that went into actually designing and building this before we had tools like Autocad and computer-aided design? This whole machine was hand drafted completely. Down to every screw, every shim, every gear. It's just awesome. But if you ask the History channel, it would be "the work of aliens because humans would never be able to build something this complex" haha
Getting real close to being operational. Love the old technology. Designed without computers, calculators or any of the modern conveniences. Truly a credit to our forefathers. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work. Keep in mind that the 0.002" error will follow the tailstock all the way to the headstock as the tailstock is moved, getting worse in terms of angular misalignment.
Keith you are losing soo much weight. time to buy some smaller shirts ; - ) love the content watching you restore and rebuild these old machines make my day thank you.
I hope you cover the shimming process. Sometimes the burr on a piece of cut shim throws things out of wack and I'd like to see how you cut your shim stock and install it - how much coverage of shim between the 2 mating parts, do you torque wrench the pieces or just tighten, do soft or hard shimming material (copper versus tool steel), do you lap the parts before shimming? All the stuff involved.
I would have loved a minute on your inside mic kit. That's part of you setting up machines I enjoy. I get to learn about the tools you bring to the job. :)
That was a great set up. Even thought I was on a machine similar to this, we never used the tail stock..And looking at the set up I can see that it would have improved the accuracy of our work And who said you caring teach an old dog new tricks Thank you for you hard work
Keith: Try your alignment several places up and down and you will probably find the alignment changing from the .002 you have in the present position. I always enjoy your content! RJA
I was going to comment the very same. The screws probably aren't absolutely perfect, and if one has a slight error one way where the other has an error the other way, they will add up, for better or for worse.
Nice to see the this almost back together. Keith, I noticed when you installed the bushing in the tailstock head the bushing appeared to have a lip or burr at about the 2 to 4 o'clock region of the end of the bushing. This was about 4:15 on the video. It may have been grease but it sure looked like wear. Thanks for sharing.
Instead of lifting the tail stock, wouldn't it be easier to knock the pin out of the feed rod coupling and hand crank the tailstock into alignment. If it was aligned before, the pin ought to drop right back in the coupling when done. On edit, I guess the bevel gears would have needed to be clocked on disassembly so at this point Keith's method is the only way to go unless he managed to reassemble at the same bevel gear alignment.
Good to see you have recovered from your surgery - back to the heavy stuff! That is quite some machine - that tailstock is bigger than Belgium! - And Brian Block has a bigger one I think! :)
If that were my machine, I would want the rust removed from the boring bar and it to have a good polished finish on it! I think a solid rod with a dial indicator on the end would have been a better method to check the boring bar parallelality to the bed! Keep up the good work 🤩 JIM
Hi Keith. Does gear backlash affect alignment? I would imagine a dial indicator mounted to the table and run back and forth along the bar would be the ticket. How about horizontal alignment?
Yes, i was also thinking of backlash, it is probably the best to raise the headstock a little bit after every adjustment before measuring, to eliminate backlash.
I would think a span that distance will have some sag. Must be a bit tricky in actual operation to counter that on a long bore. Has the brass bushing been checked for accuracy as well?
I must admit that I am watching this video wondering why Keith is working with the tailstock and spindle near the top of their travel, when the same thing could be done, only easier , a few inches above the table. Maybe he will explain as I continue, but manhandling that long boring bar over his head looks like a hassle to me.
I guess 2 thou might not be a lot, but won't shimming the base of the tailstock affect the lash of the bevel gears that drive the bearing block up and down?
Any gear chain has to have backlash, so when making adjustments you always make the final adjustment against the natural pressure. In a manual mill this is why climb milling is sometimes a bit sketchy, because the feed pressure means the backlash space is in front of the cutter, and a climb mill means the cutter is pulling toward that free space, and the cutter can jump forward the amount of the backlash. This amount may be enough to actually break a small endmill, but is often enough to make irregularities in the surface you are milling. It is also why you always move your mill table to position in the same direction. In my case my habit is turning the dial clockwise. If I need to move to a position in the counterclockwise direction I go past it far enough to use up the backlash, then turn clockwise to the target position. In this case the resisting force is gravity, so as long as you move into position in an upward direction all the backlash is pushing back against the screw wear and gear lash, and it will be repeatable. Uneven wear in the screw is not correctable, basically you use it until it exceeds whatever tolerances you can accept for the work you do, then you make a new screw/nut and start the process of wearing out again. This is one of the reasons that lead screws often run in bronze nuts, because as the nut wears backlash increases, but precision does not suffer. As the screw wears differently in different spots then precision suffers. It is also usually easier and less expensive to replace a nut than the lead screw.
Maybe a better way would be to run the boring bar down to where you could get a dti on the table,and move th table back and forth.then see what you have.put dti on the shaft.
Very interesting, I hadn't realised why this machine had a tail stock until this video. One question though, how do you know you were directly below the boring bar when measuring? I should probably do the trigonometry to find out how much potential error that introduces but it feels like that would introduce more than the difference you now have.
He was wiggling the top of the mike and holding the bottom in one place to find the tightest point at the bar then wiggling the bottom of the mike while holding the top to find the tightest place at the bottom. Rinse and repeat until the the overall tightest point at the tailstock bearing was found. Do the same thing near the headstock bearing. If the bar had a big bend, measuring close to the bearings ignores it.
@@kensherwin4544 yes, the shortest distance wins the race as such. No need for trig at all, just very simple maths, the hypotenuse is always longer, once it's the shortest measurement then it's at 90 degs to the bottom of the bar
You indicated that it was a morse taper on the chuck end. I was thinking you could insert a drill chuck and chuck an alignment laser to shine at the tailstock. You would be able to see horizontal and vertical alignment and run out from one set up.
Now that sir is a good idea, but wouldn't the chuck just introduce yet another increment of inaccuracy? Probably better to use a collet chuck, but you would still have the problem of a 105 year old possibly well worn spindle taper to deal with. But there again if you were to run the spindle very slowly you would spot any misalignment quickly with the laser dot going in circles.
@@markbernier8434 Yep, they’re great for resolving down to about 40 thou at best but we’re talking over an order of magnitude more accuracy required here… they’d first get you in the ball park I guess!
Thanks for your show Keith. Thanks to you I understand what is happening on another RUclipsr (Cutting edge engineering). He does not explain as much or as well as what you do.
Keith, if the hbm bed has already been leveled, would it be more repeatable to use a precision level on the boring bar to make it parallel with the bed? Also wondering if you have any method to convert from brown and sharp no 9 to MT2? I bought an Index 745 with BS9 but would like to utilize some MT2 drills already on hand. I’ve found a Collis tool “rough socket” (p/n 60902) with MT2 socket. The rough end could then be machined to a 3/4” straight shank and be held with my largest 3/4 collet. Would then require tool hardening.
Love ya Keith.... How do you know if your Boring bar is not slightly bent?.... i would run the head and tail stock up and down a few times to let it settle in... you may be there already and you are chasing a ghost.. just a thought... keep the videos coming really enjoy your work...
If you add shims to the base of the tail stock wont you increase the lash of the gears causing greater errors as you move up and down. How much lash between the angle gears exists now. Is there any shims or adjustment in the vertical lift screw in the tail stock. I totally agree with others about running it up and down. 0.002" in 5 or 6 feet is really splitting hairs keith. You could unbolt the tail stock tower and spread the thinnest 0w oil on the surfaces to keep them from rusting over the next hundred years Great work though.
Why did you leave the tailstock so high. Wouldn’t it have been easier to work with the head and tailstocks lower so you wouldn’t have to reach so high?
Keith, I'm proud of you! By the way, I have a son named Keith. You were talking a few weeks back about having gastric surgery. It's pretty evident from your videos. You had a gastric sleeve or some other type of surgery to lose some weight. You're looking great!
Hindsight being 20/20, would it be easier to disconnect the shaft that transmits the movement from the headstock of the machine to the tailstock? Punch out the pin and disconnect, then make adjustments from the hand crank on the tailstock end...
@@robertmatel8136 Yes, that might be an issue... or the point where the tail gets lifted to get things back together. Lift once instead of however many times it took.
I was going to say the same the bar looks like it's has about 5 to 10 TH of dirt and crap on it. I would take it over to the lathe and spin it for a good clean. Dirt is our enemy. Clean shop good shop or is that closer to god. Looking good.
Keith - great to see this machine coming together. I did observe that you put your hands under a suspended load without any blocks to carry or catch the load should the strap snap. In my 40+ years of project work, I cannot count the number of times a certified strap or cable has snapped while carrying a load much less than the load limit of the strap. This is why my company has always had a safety rule that you do not get under a load, or place any part of your body under a load (what is called "line of fire:), while the load is on the hook unless there is a back up system to carry the load. Safety is something that has to be constant and I would hate to see you get hurt while working on these heavy pieces of equipment. A lot of people watch your videos and I think you have a great venue for promoting safe work. Something to think about in your future work.
I had to scroll a long way down to find someone as concerned as I was, seeing Keith's fingers under the unsupported tailstock. As the old platitude has it 'Safety is no accident'. Having said that I am a great fan of Keith's channel, what a craftsman.
I would use an indicator on a parallel strip (big one) or similar and sweep it under the bar each end to set the height. It’s very fast and accurate. You should also turn the bar and average out the runout also. I guarantee it won’t be dead true. I am very surprised that there is no provision for fine adjust of the height. The horizontal I used to run did. Basically the nut inside had a worm wheel on one end, and a worm acted on it to rotate the nut in the housing, raising or lowering the tailstock. Hopefully the height adjustment stays good throughout the stroke of the machine. The machine I ran had a replacement screw on the head which was close, but not perfect. When ever you moved the head the tailstock was always out. It lost .006” per turn of the screw. Very annoying.
Good Now run the full height taking comparative measurements at regular intervals... Use the median between highest and lowest differences values across the full height travel... ☹🇬🇧
I am somewhat confused by the alignment process. You are working in three dimensions, yet you measure and align in one. It seems that using an optical would provide greater accuracy. I wonder about achieving your desired tolerance using a bar pinned at one end and support at the other by a bushing. The bar, without support in the middle, will sag. The bar has some flex as evidenced by the effort it took to move it into place and the initial measurements. I am also curious about the shimming process. One last item, is deflection in the shaft as a result of heat. As the machine runs the boring bar and the bronze bushing must heat. Is there additional deflection due to this heat?
He said multiple times he's still just roughing things in. He's very well versed in metrology and machine alignment, he will ultimately get it all as good as possible.
Is this boring bar straight enough for this kind of measurements and whats it like in the center? I would have thought that one would check the boring bar before this. Or is this the first round of adjustment?
@@davidt8438 I get it. I have rebuilt machines for over 40 years. I can’t believe how he lucks out with his alignments. I’ve scraped days on a saddle, table etc. and he seems to just have to spot the surfaces. Taking sizes for turcite- wow normally you need to grind it close- not Keith it just needs a pattern scraped. Guess he lives right. But it’s fun to watch.
Great episode Keith, but to get the accuracy you are aiming for would it not have been an idea to get it close, then turn on the machine and spin the bar and clean it with wire wool and kerosene to get all the surface rust off of it so you can get a really accurate measurement of the height? This isn't a criticism as you may well have been planning on it for the last step of dialling the machine in. It looks great and given your years of experience I bet it will work just fine for another hundred years.
Would have been easier to lower the tailstock to match the spindle, so you don't have to work with your arms over your head. Always make your measurements while raising the head, that way the weight of the mechanism will remove any inherent lash. Same thing when doing setups- go below your working point and raise to the proper level.
I spent a few years in a large machine shop in Morehead City, NC, working on similar sized machines, really enjoy watching such work, my machine shop is much smaller but similar work on engines. I miss the old "big machines" most of the ones I've worked on were fifty years older than myself, some a century older.
can't wait to see that puppy in action !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Be sure to lower everything and raise it back up an inch or so that way all the backlash is out of everything everytime when you make your measurements and adjustments. The lucas looks so good with the bar in it! I wish my mill had come with one could have saved me a bunch of work over the past couple of weeks building one!
Keith I want to thank you for going to all the work to making your video's for all of us to enjoy!
Excellent demonstration of stick-to-itiveness, Keith. One guy, big shop, big tools. Impressive!
It will be wonderful to see the horizontal boring mill in action! Such a versatile machine!
Hello Keith, I have the same inside mic set as you except I think mine may be even bigger. I made a video about it a while ago. It will go out to 415 inches. Also similar to you, after two years of work my HBM should be running today as well. Ken
KEITH, LOOKING GREAT AND GREAT VIDEO, TELL ALL HELLO...SEE YOU WHEN...
Always enjoy your videos Keith. I used to have to use a micrometer set similar to that one many years ago. I was taught to make sure that you screwed together the minimum number of rods needed to make the measurement. For example for a 900mm bore with the sets we had, I think we would have used 3 pieces, 1 at 600, 1 at 200 and the micrometer at 100. Less connections meant less chance of error.
Just refurbishing old machines like this is an artform. But can you imagine all the time and work that went into actually designing and building this before we had tools like Autocad and computer-aided design? This whole machine was hand drafted completely. Down to every screw, every shim, every gear. It's just awesome. But if you ask the History channel, it would be "the work of aliens because humans would never be able to build something this complex" haha
Getting real close to being operational. Love the old technology. Designed without computers, calculators or any of the modern conveniences. Truly a credit to our forefathers. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work. Keep in mind that the 0.002" error will follow the tailstock all the way to the headstock as the tailstock is moved, getting worse in terms of angular misalignment.
Keith you are losing soo much weight. time to buy some smaller shirts ; - ) love the content watching you restore and rebuild these old machines make my day thank you.
I hope it is because of **improved** health.
Great work thanks for sharing
Fascinating video. We’ll made and presented.
That is an awesome micrometer set
I hope you cover the shimming process. Sometimes the burr on a piece of cut shim throws things out of wack and I'd like to see how you cut your shim stock and install it - how much coverage of shim between the 2 mating parts, do you torque wrench the pieces or just tighten, do soft or hard shimming material (copper versus tool steel), do you lap the parts before shimming? All the stuff involved.
I would have loved a minute on your inside mic kit. That's part of you setting up machines I enjoy. I get to learn about the tools you bring to the job. :)
Put an indicator on the rotating bar ,when it's low enough in its travel to the machine ways. 👍👏
I’d love to seen it in service as I am not familiar with these machines.
What an awesome restoration you have done
Frank
Check out THE METAL RAYMOND to see the versatility of a horizontal boring mill.
The ones I have seen the table can rotate as well.
Good job Keith, enjoyed watching you put this old machine back in good working order.
Can't wait to see it making chips.
Hiya Keith
That was a great set up. Even thought I was on a machine similar to this, we never used the tail stock..And looking at the set up I can see that it would have improved the accuracy of our work
And who said you caring teach an old dog new tricks
Thank you for you hard work
What a beautiful machine! I am already looking forward to the first chips! Greetings from Dresden!👍👏💪🛠🇩🇪❤🇺🇸😎
Wow you look great. Think you need a new wardrobe pal you've earned it.
Your weight loss program is really working, Keith!
getting there soon keith
Great news been fol8wing this restoration with interest
Very nice Keith.
Nice machine.
You have it close to being dialed in.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Keith:
Try your alignment several places up and down and you will probably find the alignment changing from the .002 you have in the present position. I always enjoy your content! RJA
I was going to comment the very same. The screws probably aren't absolutely perfect, and if one has a slight error one way where the other has an error the other way, they will add up, for better or for worse.
Can't wait to see this in action, I ain't nagging, when you can, when you can. Thanks man.
Looking forward to seeing some work on this machine
Nice to see the this almost back together. Keith, I noticed when you installed the bushing in the tailstock head the bushing appeared to have a lip or burr at about the 2 to 4 o'clock region of the end of the bushing. This was about 4:15 on the video. It may have been grease but it sure looked like wear.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for all the teaching and entertainment. You look and sound wonderful, I'm proud of you!
This amount of precision is impressive.
Instead of lifting the tail stock, wouldn't it be easier to knock the pin out of the feed rod coupling and hand crank the tailstock into alignment. If it was aligned before, the pin ought to drop right back in the coupling when done. On edit, I guess the bevel gears would have needed to be clocked on disassembly so at this point Keith's method is the only way to go unless he managed to reassemble at the same bevel gear alignment.
Great to see this machine coming together. I would think that running a dial indicator on the table down and back would be more accurate.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Good to see you have recovered from your surgery - back to the heavy stuff! That is quite some machine - that tailstock is bigger than Belgium! - And Brian Block has a bigger one I think! :)
Yes Brian's HBM is an absolute monster!
Happy Boring!!😊
As always a greate assembly work done by an experienced Keith. Note the greate camera work and the editing!
Very nice looking machine👍
Curious about lateral alignment as well.
Good work !
Yet another excellent video.
Great project as usual, Keith! Stay well
What happened to the Stoker Engine?
Thanks Keith
If that were my machine, I would want the rust removed from the boring bar and it to have a good polished finish on it!
I think a solid rod with a dial indicator on the end would have been a better method to check the boring bar parallelality to the bed!
Keep up the good work 🤩
JIM
It would be neat if the tailstock bearing block had screw adjustment to get that final alignment to the spindle
Hi Keith. Does gear backlash affect alignment? I would imagine a dial indicator mounted to the table and run back and forth along the bar would be the ticket. How about horizontal alignment?
Yes, i was also thinking of backlash, it is probably the best to raise the headstock a little bit after every adjustment before measuring, to eliminate backlash.
Good morning Keith! You are looking really well. Will cleaning up the boring bar help with installing it? Looking forward to seeing it work. Thanks
I was quite surprised Keith hadn't polished the bar up a bit too.
I would think a span that distance will have some sag. Must be a bit tricky in actual operation to counter that on a long bore. Has the brass bushing been checked for accuracy as well?
I must admit that I am watching this video wondering why Keith is working with the tailstock and spindle near the top of their travel, when the same thing could be done, only easier , a few inches above the table. Maybe he will explain as I continue, but manhandling that long boring bar over his head looks like a hassle to me.
Would love to see some work on this machine!
Don't hold your breath!
Would there be any benefit to rotating the boring bar 180 degrees and re-measuring to make sure that it hadn't taken a set from sitting?
I guess 2 thou might not be a lot, but won't shimming the base of the tailstock affect the lash of the bevel gears that drive the bearing block up and down?
On my Boring Mill there is a fine adjustment on the tailstock so you don't have to use simes
How is that tail stock bush lubricated?????
Have you thought about bearing clearance and backlash în the gear or wear on the lead screw?
Any gear chain has to have backlash, so when making adjustments you always make the final adjustment against the natural pressure. In a manual mill this is why climb milling is sometimes a bit sketchy, because the feed pressure means the backlash space is in front of the cutter, and a climb mill means the cutter is pulling toward that free space, and the cutter can jump forward the amount of the backlash. This amount may be enough to actually break a small endmill, but is often enough to make irregularities in the surface you are milling.
It is also why you always move your mill table to position in the same direction. In my case my habit is turning the dial clockwise. If I need to move to a position in the counterclockwise direction I go past it far enough to use up the backlash, then turn clockwise to the target position.
In this case the resisting force is gravity, so as long as you move into position in an upward direction all the backlash is pushing back against the screw wear and gear lash, and it will be repeatable. Uneven wear in the screw is not correctable, basically you use it until it exceeds whatever tolerances you can accept for the work you do, then you make a new screw/nut and start the process of wearing out again.
This is one of the reasons that lead screws often run in bronze nuts, because as the nut wears backlash increases, but precision does not suffer. As the screw wears differently in different spots then precision suffers. It is also usually easier and less expensive to replace a nut than the lead screw.
Maybe a better way would be to run the boring bar down to where you could get a dti on the table,and move th table back and forth.then see what you have.put dti on the shaft.
@@keithgutshall9559 Don't want to sweep the bar. Guaranteed to have sag. Measuring the ends is best practice.
Nice
So do you add or subtract for the rust on the boring bar?
Very interesting, I hadn't realised why this machine had a tail stock until this video. One question though, how do you know you were directly below the boring bar when measuring? I should probably do the trigonometry to find out how much potential error that introduces but it feels like that would introduce more than the difference you now have.
He was wiggling the top of the mike and holding the bottom in one place to find the tightest point at the bar then wiggling the bottom of the mike while holding the top to find the tightest place at the bottom. Rinse and repeat until the the overall tightest point at the tailstock bearing was found. Do the same thing near the headstock bearing. If the bar had a big bend, measuring close to the bearings ignores it.
@@kensherwin4544 Ah, thanks. I missed the wiggling at the bottom end.
@@kensherwin4544 yes, the shortest distance wins the race as such. No need for trig at all, just very simple maths, the hypotenuse is always longer, once it's the shortest measurement then it's at 90 degs to the bottom of the bar
You indicated that it was a morse taper on the chuck end. I was thinking you could insert a drill chuck and chuck an alignment laser to shine at the tailstock. You would be able to see horizontal and vertical alignment and run out from one set up.
Now that sir is a good idea, but wouldn't the chuck just introduce yet another increment of inaccuracy? Probably better to use a collet chuck, but you would still have the problem of a 105 year old possibly well worn spindle taper to deal with. But there again if you were to run the spindle very slowly you would spot any misalignment quickly with the laser dot going in circles.
You’re assuming that you can resolve a 0.002” measurement with a laser pointer?
@@paul.newland No, but alignment lasers are real and are made perfectly concentric to the case. e.g. L58SAC Industrial Alignment Laser
@@markbernier8434 Yep, they’re great for resolving down to about 40 thou at best but we’re talking over an order of magnitude more accuracy required here… they’d first get you in the ball park I guess!
nice ❤
Thanks for your show Keith. Thanks to you I understand what is happening on another RUclipsr (Cutting edge engineering). He does not explain as much or as well as what you do.
*- Kieth, can you actually get a precision measurement with all that rust on the boring bar?*
no.
Keith, if the hbm bed has already been leveled, would it be more repeatable to use a precision level on the boring bar to make it parallel with the bed?
Also wondering if you have any method to convert from brown and sharp no 9 to MT2? I bought an Index 745 with BS9 but would like to utilize some MT2 drills already on hand. I’ve found a Collis tool “rough socket” (p/n 60902) with MT2 socket. The rough end could then be machined to a 3/4” straight shank and be held with my largest 3/4 collet. Would then require tool hardening.
I am wondering why no level on the mice to make sure it was perpendictular?
why not do all this from the bottom? Or at least only half way up...
Love ya Keith.... How do you know if your Boring bar is not slightly bent?.... i would run the head and tail stock up and down a few times to let it settle in... you may be there already and you are chasing a ghost.. just a thought... keep the videos coming really enjoy your work...
Agreed. At the right time polish the bar with ScotchBrite and check it with an indicator for runout. Really looking good so far.
why not a precision level on the boring bar? I assume the bed has been made level already
If you add shims to the base of the tail stock wont you increase the lash of the gears causing greater errors as you move up and down. How much lash between the angle gears exists now. Is there any shims or adjustment in the vertical lift screw in the tail stock. I totally agree with others about running it up and down.
0.002" in 5 or 6 feet is really splitting hairs keith. You could unbolt the tail stock tower and spread the thinnest 0w oil on the surfaces to keep them from rusting over the next hundred years
Great work though.
Why did you leave the tailstock so high. Wouldn’t it have been easier to work with the head and tailstocks lower so you wouldn’t have to reach so high?
Left to write Alignment it’s OK?
I am curious why you didn't lower everything before taking measurements and making adjustments?
So is everyone else!
Keith, I'm proud of you! By the way, I have a son named Keith. You were talking a few weeks back about having gastric surgery. It's pretty evident from your videos. You had a gastric sleeve or some other type of surgery to lose some weight. You're looking great!
Hindsight being 20/20, would it be easier to disconnect the shaft that transmits the movement from the headstock of the machine to the tailstock? Punch out the pin and disconnect, then make adjustments from the hand crank on the tailstock end...
realignment of the pin hole?
@@robertmatel8136 Yes, that might be an issue... or the point where the tail gets lifted to get things back together. Lift once instead of however many times it took.
I was going to say the same the bar looks like it's has about 5 to 10 TH of dirt and crap on it. I would take it over to the lathe and spin it for a good clean. Dirt is our enemy. Clean shop good shop or is that closer to god. Looking good.
👍
Keith - great to see this machine coming together. I did observe that you put your hands under a suspended load without any blocks to carry or catch the load should the strap snap. In my 40+ years of project work, I cannot count the number of times a certified strap or cable has snapped while carrying a load much less than the load limit of the strap. This is why my company has always had a safety rule that you do not get under a load, or place any part of your body under a load (what is called "line of fire:), while the load is on the hook unless there is a back up system to carry the load. Safety is something that has to be constant and I would hate to see you get hurt while working on these heavy pieces of equipment. A lot of people watch your videos and I think you have a great venue for promoting safe work. Something to think about in your future work.
I had to scroll a long way down to find someone as concerned as I was, seeing Keith's fingers under the unsupported tailstock. As the old platitude has it 'Safety is no accident'. Having said that I am a great fan of Keith's channel, what a craftsman.
I would use an indicator on a parallel strip (big one) or similar and sweep it under the bar each end to set the height. It’s very fast and accurate. You should also turn the bar and average out the runout also. I guarantee it won’t be dead true. I am very surprised that there is no provision for fine adjust of the height. The horizontal I used to run did. Basically the nut inside had a worm wheel on one end, and a worm acted on it to rotate the nut in the housing, raising or lowering the tailstock. Hopefully the height adjustment stays good throughout the stroke of the machine. The machine I ran had a replacement screw on the head which was close, but not perfect. When ever you moved the head the tailstock was always out. It lost .006” per turn of the screw. Very annoying.
Keith do you know Keith fenner and what happened to him I miss his videos
Good
Now run the full height taking comparative measurements at regular intervals...
Use the median between highest and lowest differences values across the full height travel...
☹🇬🇧
I am somewhat confused by the alignment process. You are working in three dimensions, yet you measure and align in one. It seems that using an optical would provide greater accuracy.
I wonder about achieving your desired tolerance using a bar pinned at one end and support at the other by a bushing. The bar, without support in the middle, will sag. The bar has some flex as evidenced by the effort it took to move it into place and the initial measurements. I am also curious about the shimming process.
One last item, is deflection in the shaft as a result of heat. As the machine runs the boring bar and the bronze bushing must heat. Is there additional deflection due to this heat?
He said multiple times he's still just roughing things in. He's very well versed in metrology and machine alignment, he will ultimately get it all as good as possible.
Is this boring bar straight enough for this kind of measurements and whats it like in the center? I would have thought that one would check the boring bar before this. Or is this the first round of adjustment?
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Time to make some chips?!
Hmm - without a square I would be terrified that I wouldnt get this super long micrometer straight enough to read the true (minimum) straight length.
He placed the top on the bar and let it hang down - gravity will sort out the squareness.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to have the head and tailstock lower so your not reaching?
It would have but most of the people who comment here for Keith don’t want to make any sort of critical comments for some reason.
@@davidt8438 I get it. I have rebuilt machines for over 40 years. I can’t believe how he lucks out with his alignments. I’ve scraped days on a saddle, table etc. and he seems to just have to spot the surfaces. Taking sizes for turcite- wow normally you need to grind it close- not Keith it just needs a pattern scraped. Guess he lives right. But it’s fun to watch.
Great episode Keith, but to get the accuracy you are aiming for would it not have been an idea to get it close, then turn on the machine and spin the bar and clean it with wire wool and kerosene to get all the surface rust off of it so you can get a really accurate measurement of the height? This isn't a criticism as you may well have been planning on it for the last step of dialling the machine in. It looks great and given your years of experience I bet it will work just fine for another hundred years.
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Would have been easier to lower the tailstock to match the spindle, so you don't have to work with your arms over your head. Always make your measurements while raising the head, that way the weight of the mechanism will remove any inherent lash. Same thing when doing setups- go below your working point and raise to the proper level.
Don't lecture him.
0.002 inch are 0.05 mm. Working even more precisely will be more difficult.
With inch there are very small numbers.
Machining is commonly done to better than 0.001" accuracies. Units are irrelevant.
You are looking thin. Hope everything is alright.
The sound is so bad it spoils the video.
He keeps putting the Mic down low, It needs to be up on the top of the Apron ...
Keith you REALLY need a little help doing jobs like that boring bar
Looks like you've dropped a bunch of lbs ! Hope on purpose
The videos seem to be rather abrupt lately.
Making very precise measurements on dirty rod. Seems for me not very clever.
AH,Ha,hahahah!!🤨🤔
JIM😍
It makes me a bit nervous watching you stick your hands underneath the tail stock casting.
You really Should have had something between the tail stock and it's base to keep you safe,.😡