Wow! He turns a reamer backward 2 degrees and everyone jumps on him. It's his reamer, and he knows about it. In appreciation of his gift to us, if you must show your superiority, do it quietly somewhere else. Great job! Can't wait to see the the Lucas make chips.
Its not the only mistake he make,s There is no way for the center line of the taper to be parallel to the outside. He made error on error. And not only that. The hole part is a is a questionable thing to use on this machine.
@@JaapGrootveld he acknowledged that the existing hole was not centered. He went ahead and drilled it. The boring bar brings it back into concentricity. Not a mistake. Just making skillful use of what he has.
That morse reamer was the COOLEST thing I’ve seen in a long time watching these videos. As a non-machinist, I have nothing but respect for your craft. Keep the videos coming.
Very nice job Keith. I absolutely like the New Old Stock Reamer Set. You're using that set of Morse Taper Reamers for which they were intended. 77 to 80 years later.👍 Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
I've been watching this project from the beginning. So close now! I can't wait to see it do some work. I think I recall the huge Diresta band saw project is on hold, waiting for parts made with this machine? That's another project I'm looking forward to seeing progress on. Thanks for all you do!
I always wondered how the taper attachment worked on a lathe. The way you described how the taper attachment works. Is very descriptive and easy to understand. Thank you.
Repairing a Morse Taper on core drills was a common task in shipyard machine shops. We'd indicate a good Morse taper between centers, then run an indicator in the z-axis adjusting the taper attachment until we got a 0 reading. Then cut, file and polish mill the tang on the end, and then send the drills back for more abuse!
As a guy that does lots of form reaming, the wax paper and rapping is a one time thing, I would recommend that you put a light coat of synthetic atf on them for storage. The best antitrust oil that wipes off very easily and also cleans the tool.
The live center can be set up with a threaded hole in the end so a threaded rod can be installed and nut and washer used to lock it in if the need ever arises.
Nice job. It looks like the shoulder diameter of your adapter is smaller than the OD of your bushing. Hopefully when you load up that center it doesn't press the bronze bushing out of your tail stock.
Abom has a trick for side loading a center drill to true up a wobbly hole. Otherwise one should consider using the compound to machine it true to 60 degrees. But you got it done.
If you are going to use that for lineboring, you are going to want to make sure your quill lock is exceptionally strong. The Quill lock on those old 31s was prone to slipping once they got some age in them and there was typically a locking collet closer that went on the face of spindle nose to clamp the spindle bar for added support, that you appear not to have.
good evening!I don't know why I like to watch foreign metalworking!but there is something vintage in it that))) and approach her with a soul)!good luck in projects and good health!
3:00 I've found it unnecessary to face the end before adding a centre hole, unless the end is _really_ rough in which case a spot face might be helpful. One the hole's in, I can use a half dead centre to face the end, then switch over to a live centre for the rest. Much less risky!
The age old problem of the user vs. the collector. I liked how you were able to get the lathe to do most of the work and just finish up with the reamer for the final fit.
Keith Place a "strap" with a center drill hole on the strap's face, on the rough face end of your rough stock. You can then hog off the OD with the tailstock live center inserted into the strap for your support! After the OD is close to finish or finished, then take your face cut and center drill AFTER hogging OD! This insures the work while hogging, doesn't move BEFORE you establish the work's finish face and center drill! The strap will give you the support required to hog the OD first before finishing the Face.
I use a domed head carriage bolt (with the sharp head edges and threads removed) mounted in a tool holder to gently nudge my work into the best possible centering using the lathe carriage before I start.
from the detail I can see on the screen here it looks like the flutes are very nicely finish two of a tool you don't get a lot of that nowadays.People took pride in their work back then even though there was a war o I've seen war time made tools in a lot of them are in superb shape.
I'm sure someone else is going to comment on this, but the "tower" style tailstock on this HBM wasn't designed for substantial thrust loads in the Z-Axis. They were designed first and foremost handle boring operations (X and Y Thrust loads). If it were, there would have been a "loaded" bearing in the tailstock, and the tailstock would have been substantially deeper (I have seen a HBM rigged with Two tailstocks back to back, sharing a common tailstock bar "ganged" to give more support, but I don't think it ever used a center. As I recall, the application was a very long horizontal milling bar. There were milling operations needing to be done using a ganged wheel cluster in the middle of a large valve body (~4 feet into the body), to cut a series of scallops which were used for seal retention/ adjustment. The two tailstocks were to give more rigidity to the bar. The bar and the cutters were custom made for the application.
The largest diameter drill bits I've ever owned were 1-9/16. I bought them at a scrap yard, and they were sharpened, and had the plastic dip on the tips.
Nice work. The facing off in the beginning nearly went bad. Why not only face off a little portion around the center point? Making it to some size using the proper type of insert the rest of the facing off could be done when the support center is applied.
@@greeceuranusputin That's an obvious option but the danger is always there, thinking about an ever longer stick out. Why not just clear the spot for the center boring?
Thank you Keith. I have a Morse taper reamer and want to dress the spindle and tail stock tapers on my lathe. Been wanting to know how to do this properly.
I was just thinking, this could be adapted into one heck of a huge lathe! Just build a tool post on the Bed. And adapt a chuck to the head, capable of spinning nearly 80". It's not going to have all the features, but if it's the only machine you have you could get some jobs done. Doubtful you can thread be with it. Un Less you made a lead screw with the proper gear ratios. This could be a very interesting piece of equipment!!
Keith, Millersburg Pa is home to Coleman Surplus and Saturn Surplus, which carry military surplus equipment. There are also others in the area as well. I've only been to Coleman's, as I didn't know of the other one at the time.
(Morse) taper reamers are pretty good, I think. Even the Chinese one I have. It's a small MT1 for a Sherline and judging by the bluing test, it's a perfect fit. I think it's easier to grind a reamer to high accuracy than it is to bore a hole with that same accuracy, given that grinding allows for more precision than turning. So, I assume that a reamer is likely to be just a little bit more accurate. Only possible issue with a reamer is that it does not guarantee concentricity, while boring does.
I agree, a draw bar would be a good idea, to prevent any possibility of the live centre Morse Taper slipping in the adapter sleeve. Also, is there really not any space, for even a very thin/narrow locking ring?
If you are concerned with the adaptor moving in the bush, would slitting one side of it along it's length allow the tapers to interact, and expand it a fraction so it tightens it's fit in the bush?
Y you just know that reamer set was in one of them HUGE warehouses the DoD had out in the desserts or under a mountian cause of it was in a Navy warehouse near the ocean? It would have some rust and that reamer is perfect like it was made yesterday.
very cool, nice progress. 29:30 I would imagine a lathe dog could be used to keep the bushing side from rotating. Or an L-bracket... said the armchair machinist. I cannot help myself, forgive me. 🙂
I do recognize that there is a difference between a machinist and a tool and die maker but, I have often wondered why you and Adam don’t make more of the tools that you need. I am a steam fitter and I also do plumbing but I have worked with welders that would rather be shot in a tooth with a B B gun than do any plumbing
The squeaky noise was from a lack of abundant lubrication. And you should use a felt wiper before test fitting the shank. And you should never turn the reamer backwards to remove it or you will cause dulling and possible damage to the reamer.
"And you should never turn the reamer backwards to remove it or you will cause dulling and possible damage to the reamer." I noticed that too. Made me cringe.
great work is looks looks like that thing is dead nuts on,; also are you are looking quite well these days keep on doing what you're doing I guess yours truly Kimber 1958 at youtube
Taper attachments still confuse me. Do you uncouple the nut from the leadscrew? Or does the cross slide handwheel turn when the carriage is following the taper attachment?
The implementations vary, but the South Bend 10” has a “telescoping” cross slide lead screw. The taper attachment anchors the far side of the lead screw and can move the cross slide as required to cut the taper. The hand wheel section is attached to the threaded portion of the lead screw via a telescoping splined connection. Thus, when you turn the handle, the cross slide advances, while the taper “tracer” controls the profile. Note that the smaller South Bend 9” lathe taper attachment doesn’t have enough space for the telescoping section, and you must remove the lead screw nut pin to let the taper attachment control the profile. On these types, you use the compound to advance the cutter depth.
can you set the taper attachment, to say, this angle, and keep it there, use the lathe normally, then go back to use the taper attachment, and it still be set?
A spring loaded adaptor in between the taper tap and the live center would keep the tension on the taper tap and you only have to adjust the tail stock ounce🤔🤔? Does this exist?
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow! He turns a reamer backward 2 degrees and everyone jumps on him. It's his reamer, and he knows about it. In appreciation of his gift to us, if you must show your superiority, do it quietly somewhere else. Great job! Can't wait to see the the Lucas make chips.
Its not the only mistake he make,s There is no way for the center line of the taper to be parallel to the outside. He made error on error. And not only that. The hole part is a is a questionable thing to use on this machine.
@@JaapGrootveld Does it really bother you that much that he didn't ask for *YOUR* permission to use a live center on *HIS* machine?
@@JaapGrootveld he acknowledged that the existing hole was not centered. He went ahead and drilled it. The boring bar brings it back into concentricity. Not a mistake. Just making skillful use of what he has.
@@JaapGrootveld I'm awaiting your video on how to do this perfectly.
Don't hold your breath!
That reamer set is a beauty.
I'm 75 and that reamer set is older than me but looks excellent.
@@peterhobson3262 ...ARE YOU BRAGGING OR COMPLAINING?!
@@daleburrell6273 Just making a comment. People are still allowed to do that.
Neat to see the old war Naval war hero getting a chance to do what it was intended to do
That morse reamer was the COOLEST thing I’ve seen in a long time watching these videos.
As a non-machinist, I have nothing but respect for your craft.
Keep the videos coming.
Very nice job Keith.
I absolutely like the New Old Stock Reamer Set.
You're using that set of Morse Taper Reamers for which they were intended.
77 to 80 years later.👍
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
I've been watching this project from the beginning. So close now! I can't wait to see it do some work. I think I recall the huge Diresta band saw project is on hold, waiting for parts made with this machine? That's another project I'm looking forward to seeing progress on.
Thanks for all you do!
Don't ask too many questions, you may get scolded!
@@garybrenner6236 Yes, the 'stoker project comment' is now official!!
I always wondered how the taper attachment worked on a lathe. The way you described how the taper attachment works. Is very descriptive and easy to understand. Thank you.
Repairing a Morse Taper on core drills was a common task in shipyard machine shops. We'd indicate a good Morse taper between centers, then run an indicator in the z-axis adjusting the taper attachment until we got a 0 reading. Then cut, file and polish mill the tang on the end, and then send the drills back for more abuse!
As a guy that does lots of form reaming, the wax paper and rapping is a one time thing, I would recommend that you put a light coat of synthetic atf on them for storage. The best antitrust oil that wipes off very easily and also cleans the tool.
101st use for ATF, thanks for sharing.
The live center can be set up with a threaded hole in the end so a threaded rod can be installed and nut and washer used to lock it in if the need ever arises.
Nice job. It looks like the shoulder diameter of your adapter is smaller than the OD of your bushing. Hopefully when you load up that center it doesn't press the bronze bushing out of your tail stock.
Abom has a trick for side loading a center drill to true up a wobbly hole. Otherwise one should consider using the compound to machine it true to 60 degrees. But you got it done.
The question remains: What was wrong with how he did it? I believe it turns out perfect.
If you are going to use that for lineboring, you are going to want to make sure your quill lock is exceptionally strong. The Quill lock on those old 31s was prone to slipping once they got some age in them and there was typically a locking collet closer that went on the face of spindle nose to clamp the spindle bar for added support, that you appear not to have.
Good job Keith👍
good evening!I don't know why I like to watch foreign metalworking!but there is something vintage in it that))) and approach her with a soul)!good luck in projects and good health!
Getting closer and closer to putting this baby into service. A fascinating process! 🎉
Great video Keith you look like you have lost a bunch of weight looking good pal ! Thanks for all you do!
Thanks for showing the new packing on the reamer, Keith, and explaining. Who doesn't like "This is new stuff!".
3:00 I've found it unnecessary to face the end before adding a centre hole, unless the end is _really_ rough in which case a spot face might be helpful. One the hole's in, I can use a half dead centre to face the end, then switch over to a live centre for the rest. Much less risky!
The age old problem of the user vs. the collector. I liked how you were able to get the lathe to do most of the work and just finish up with the reamer for the final fit.
Great job! Glad to see my gramma war bonds finally put to good use with that reamer!
Keith Place a "strap" with a center drill hole on the strap's face, on the rough face end of your rough stock.
You can then hog off the OD with the tailstock live center inserted into the strap for your support!
After the OD is close to finish or finished, then take your face cut and center drill AFTER hogging OD!
This insures the work while hogging, doesn't move BEFORE you establish the work's finish face and center drill!
The strap will give you the support required to hog the OD first before finishing the Face.
I use a domed head carriage bolt (with the sharp head edges and threads removed) mounted in a tool holder to gently nudge my work into the best possible centering using the lathe carriage before I start.
Thank you for sharing. Very much enjoyed watching.👍
I'm not a machinist, and have never seen a MT reamer in use. Impressive! Thank you.
Man, that tapered reamer set must have been an awesome find... I wonder how much that would cost today, new?
One to five hundred each.
7:08 Keith shows how to make steel wool.
Watching you bore that taper I was wondering what would happen if that bar went in far enough to bind up.
You should have taken that birdness, got your favorite hobby shop bird, and put it set up on one of your beams so you can have your shop lucky bird.
from the detail I can see on the screen here it looks like the flutes are very nicely finish two of a tool you don't get a lot of that nowadays.People took pride in their work back then even though there was a war o I've seen war time made tools in a lot of them are in superb shape.
Nice Work!
Looks like Keith must need a big swing lathe!
So cool to see war stock tools being used so many years later
Not only was this a great little project, it will be helpful for years to come.
Congrats on your weight loss...looking great.
Great video and tool addition to the Lucas.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Keith. Very interesting video and a great "little" project.
I'm sure someone else is going to comment on this, but the "tower" style tailstock on this HBM wasn't designed for substantial thrust loads in the Z-Axis. They were designed first and foremost handle boring operations (X and Y Thrust loads). If it were, there would have been a "loaded" bearing in the tailstock, and the tailstock would have been substantially deeper (I have seen a HBM rigged with Two tailstocks back to back, sharing a common tailstock bar "ganged" to give more support, but I don't think it ever used a center. As I recall, the application was a very long horizontal milling bar. There were milling operations needing to be done using a ganged wheel cluster in the middle of a large valve body (~4 feet into the body), to cut a series of scallops which were used for seal retention/ adjustment. The two tailstocks were to give more rigidity to the bar. The bar and the cutters were custom made for the application.
The largest diameter drill bits I've ever owned were 1-9/16. I bought them at a scrap yard, and they were sharpened, and had the plastic dip on the tips.
excellant build Keith. greatly enjoyed watching.
Nice set beautiful job as always
Nice work.
The facing off in the beginning nearly went bad. Why not only face off a little portion around the center point? Making it to some size using the proper type of insert the rest of the facing off could be done when the support center is applied.
I would have liked to see him tighten more than one lug on the chuck with that big hunk of metal unsupported.
@@greeceuranusputin That's an obvious option but the danger is always there, thinking about an ever longer stick out. Why not just clear the spot for the center boring?
Did you bother to listen to the video? He explained and adjusted!
@@paulcopeland9035 Yes! I watched the entire video! Any more questions?
Awesome video thank you
Nice job Keith , show us how to make the part with a black oxide finish.
Thank you Keith. I have a Morse taper reamer and want to dress the spindle and tail stock tapers on my lathe. Been wanting to know how to do this properly.
Thanks Keith nice project. Just another step closer.
Another fine job Keith.
I was just thinking, this could be adapted into one heck of a huge lathe! Just build a tool post on the Bed. And adapt a chuck to the head, capable of spinning nearly 80". It's not going to have all the features, but if it's the only machine you have you could get some jobs done. Doubtful you can thread be with it. Un Less you made a lead screw with the proper gear ratios. This could be a very interesting piece of equipment!!
Very educational 😊
Looking good those days, Keith. 😎
Very nicely done Keith .
Keith, Millersburg Pa is home to Coleman Surplus and Saturn Surplus, which carry military surplus equipment. There are also others in the area as well. I've only been to Coleman's, as I didn't know of the other one at the time.
(Morse) taper reamers are pretty good, I think. Even the Chinese one I have. It's a small MT1 for a Sherline and judging by the bluing test, it's a perfect fit. I think it's easier to grind a reamer to high accuracy than it is to bore a hole with that same accuracy, given that grinding allows for more precision than turning. So, I assume that a reamer is likely to be just a little bit more accurate.
Only possible issue with a reamer is that it does not guarantee concentricity, while boring does.
Put your carriage up against the tail stock so the center only cuts on one side to fix offset holes. Great video
Thanks Abom!!
Now we have a centre.
Another reason to get that DRO for my 13" South Bend! Hadn't thought of that for taper set up.
Great video
Dang, that is a very, VERY, nice taper reamer set.
If you needed to you could make a drawbar, thanks for your efforts.
I agree, a draw bar would be a good idea, to prevent any possibility of the live centre Morse Taper slipping in the adapter sleeve.
Also, is there really not any space, for even a very thin/narrow locking ring?
excellent tool making keith!
If you are concerned with the adaptor moving in the bush, would slitting one side of it along it's length allow the tapers to interact, and expand it a fraction so it tightens it's fit in the bush?
I really enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
carbide boring bars, I've got a few, they're awesome
Thanks for the video Keith nicely done 👍✅ All good ✅❤️❤️ it. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
Always wondered how to do this. Now I know.
Hiya Keith
I really enjoy your Channel
Y you just know that reamer set was in one of them HUGE warehouses the DoD had out in the desserts or under a mountian cause of it was in a Navy warehouse near the ocean? It would have some rust and that reamer is perfect like it was made yesterday.
The tool was specially wrapped for a reason. Can you work out why?
very cool, nice progress. 29:30 I would imagine a lathe dog could be used to keep the bushing side from rotating. Or an L-bracket... said the armchair machinist. I cannot help myself, forgive me. 🙂
the audible gasp that escaped me when i saw you turn that reamer backwards to get it out....
A stepped/top hat style bushing would give positive axle support and location .
Great video, thanks for sharing 👍👏🇬🇧
Good video Keith
I do recognize that there is a difference between a machinist and a tool and die maker but, I have often wondered why you and Adam don’t make more of the tools that you need.
I am a steam fitter and I also do plumbing but I have worked with welders that would rather be shot in a tooth with a B B gun than do any plumbing
That reamer is huge and long. Stuff like that I’ve only seen get EDM’d, I prefer the finish real reamers like that provide.
As always, I enjoyed!
Yet another excellent video.
Nice one Keith, very informative 👴🏻👍
Nice job.
Looks like you are loosing weight. Not easy, but good for your health.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
As always - very interesting
Good Morning Georgia!😊🛠⚙️🥜👍
The squeaky noise was from a lack of abundant lubrication. And you should use a felt wiper before test fitting the shank. And you should never turn the reamer backwards to remove it or you will cause dulling and possible damage to the reamer.
"And you should never turn the reamer backwards to remove it or you will cause dulling and possible damage to the reamer."
I noticed that too.
Made me cringe.
Up tight and outa sight. I wonder if you’ve ever not done the exact right thing. Prolly not hey?
@@todaywefly4370 A little Stevie Wonder there!
job done, thank you
That was neat.
First time I've seen a bird's nest get plucked out of the chip tray and wrap around the work piece.
nice job one point , never ever turn a reamer backwards you wil kill the reamer and make it dull.
great work is looks looks like that thing is dead nuts on,; also are you are looking quite well these days keep on doing what you're doing I guess yours truly Kimber 1958 at youtube
Is the boring mill’s tailstock designed to take an axial load as needed for a live centre?
Taper attachments still confuse me. Do you uncouple the nut from the leadscrew? Or does the cross slide handwheel turn when the carriage is following the taper attachment?
The implementations vary, but the South Bend 10” has a “telescoping” cross slide lead screw. The taper attachment anchors the far side of the lead screw and can move the cross slide as required to cut the taper. The hand wheel section is attached to the threaded portion of the lead screw via a telescoping splined connection. Thus, when you turn the handle, the cross slide advances, while the taper “tracer” controls the profile.
Note that the smaller South Bend 9” lathe taper attachment doesn’t have enough space for the telescoping section, and you must remove the lead screw nut pin to let the taper attachment control the profile. On these types, you use the compound to advance the cutter depth.
can you set the taper attachment, to say, this angle, and keep it there, use the lathe normally, then go back to use the taper attachment, and it still be set?
Great video... 🙂
interesting im about 1 1/2 hr north of millersburg pa
With nothing holding the taper adapter in the bushing won't it pop out when you try to remove the center from the taper?... 🙂 @29:34
I love that reamer set. Great job.
Seems to me, the taper attachment you used could be made into a copy pattern attachment. Not a heavy pattern but some shape.
man youve dropped a lot of weight in 5 months, hope all is well.
just curious, does anyone know what brand of lathe he is using. looks really nice
That is his little monarch. He has multiple old videos on doing a bunch of rebuild work on it.
What a nice set of reamers. Buying government surplus at discounts is like getting a tax credit.
What's left to do on the Lucas?
A spring loaded adaptor in between the taper tap and the live center would keep the tension on the taper tap and you only have to adjust the tail stock ounce🤔🤔? Does this exist?
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Why don’t you use liquid cooling?