your approach is clever…. perhaps genius? there are dozens of videos on RUclips showing how to replace that bearing this will save me time and money thank you!
I tried this method but could not remove those bolts. For the heck of it (as a last resort) I put my impact gun on the lower bolt that is always stuck for everyone and it came right off. A testament to how recently that particular wheel bearing was changed, I guess.
Unbelievable, Im doing this now, after bringing it to a mechanic who wouldn't touch it because the bolt was frozen. I told him " thats why I brought it to you". Still, I have the spindle off and the snap ring out. Thank you so much. I'm half way through. I did exactly as you said and went to harbor Freight for the puller. I found out that NAPA has a loaner set. I'll still keep the set i bought. I may do the other side just for the hell of it.. Thank you so much Tin Man.
In the middle of doing this at the moment... I ended up using the slide hammer with the hub puller combo because I didn't feel comfortable putting that much pressure on the CV joints. Worked amazingly well. Regardless. My car is pretty low miles so lucky my lateral link bolt came right out no issue (will slather with anti seize before reinstalling). Got the old outer inner bearing race off the hub with a standard pulley puller, got the old bearing out, now just need to install the new parts tomorrow. Thanks for the recommendations on everything def easier and cheaper than pulling the whole knuckle out 👍
Great stuff, man! I'm dreading the day I have to tackle these bad boys, but I'll definitely be referencing your video when I do. Thanks so much for the assist!
I agree with everything you did, except when pressing the bearing in imo it shouldn’t be done that way since you’re pressing it in by putting force on the bearing itself instead of placing the pusher on the outer sleeve..
Yep, that's a fact, but I didnt have anything the proper size when I put the new bearing in. I had already thrown the old race away by the time I put in the new bearing so I pushed it in on the new bearing. A bad idea. But it was right out of the freezer, well lubed and required very little force to seat. 50,000 miles later the bearing is still good! I lucked out!
@@ekajlewis I will finally be doing this job very soon. Watching your video again, it just occurred to me what if I can grind the outside diameter of the old bearing sleeve to something like 0.0002"-0.0003" less and use it to press in the new bearing. Grinding the old sleeve just enough so it fits lose inside the hub. This way we'll make sure we're only pressing onto the outer sleeve and not the ball bearings itself. I'll give it a try, will let you know how it goes.
How did you stop the hub from spinning when using the puller??? I'm trying right now.. You did not show that???? That's why everyone uses slide hammer?? Thanks for the Video
Awesome video. What size sockets did you use to get the 2 bolts out on those bars? In the process of doing mine now and have the hub out. Very easy with the tool you used. Thanks in advance
I know this was 6 years ago. But how in the heck did you get the inside control arm bolt back in? I had to cut it to get it out but it seems like the only way to get it back in is to still remove the Jesus bolt because it can't go in from the front side and it can't go in with the axel in either
I like your video, pretty straight forward. Just an FYI, you should never press against the inner race of the bearing. Luckily, it didn't pop out the other side while you were pressing it in.
ralph - i noticed that.. the correct way should be to press on the outer race to press the bearing into the spindle, then pull on the inner race when pressing the hub into the bearing - you dont want to be putting any pressure at all on the bearings, otherwise you risk pressing them right into the race. i have to think about it whenever i do it -
Hey I’m in the middle of the procedure you are describing but the bolt that you say isn’t cambered will not come out due to hitting the axel. How were you able to go around this problem?
Fantastic help I think. I got a 1995 Legacy and got the same parts. My Subaru Garage told me it will cost about 450 Euro. I don´t want to pay so much for.
You certainly thought outside the box on this one. Some questions, once the bearing race containing the bearings is installed and the retainer ring and front seal is fitted. From the back of the hub not from the front, when you installed the hub after the video ended, 1 - did you support the outer race (the outer rim) or 2 - the bearing its self as the hub was pressed in. This aspect is contradicted many times by ALL installers. I would think if the bearing itself was not supported the hub would press the bearing out behind as its pressed in. 3 - Also I have the same install kit you got from harbour freight - which # round tool did you use against the back of either the race or the bearing ?.
Once the bearing is pressed in and the snap ring is on you can remove the harbor freight tool and then use the same tool to press the hub into the bearing. The race is seated so it will not push out the back of the knuckle. However, you do have to support the back side of the bearings when you press the hub in so that the hub doesnt just push the back side of the bearing out. It's been quite awhile so I cant remember which # disk I used, I'm sorry. But just use the one that fits. I hope it works out well for you!
@@ekajlewis Thanks for your follow up - I tackled this job this morning, we don't have Harbour Freight in Tasmania, so Ebay supplied me an identical knockoff kit you purchased, pulled the hub with the same tool you did and not a slide hammer (no issues) what I did however for the install (fortunate to own a lathe) I relieved the inside recess of tool 955-11 outward approx 3mm so that the tools outer edge would press only upon the bearing race rather than bear on the bearing itself as it does standard, its now a perfect custom tool for the Subaru's bearings. I used that tool to seat the bearing with tool 955-08 in the back hard up against the bearing (not the race) after a night in the freezer and the slightest smear of bearing grease the bearing and the hub both pressed home but under great force. I would hate to press these guys in at room temp. Anyway took it for a run, all quiet and all the grinding nasty noises are gone (for now). What I found is, if the link bolt is removed while the suspension is jacked up hard with pressure under the knuckle , it comes straight out, I tightened the link bolt also under vehicle weight on the knuckle as per the manual. Perhaps that's a trick to getting the link bolt out - no binding at all. I removed the strut bolts, the ABS sensor and the forward control arm so as I could fold the hub down and work on the back of the hub re seals etc horizontally and supported by timber as a makeshift support rather than get under the car and deal with everything awkwardly being in the way. You no doubt have saved people a great deal of grief and I hope my few incidental tips add to taking the frustration out of this job. Its simple as long as you have the right tools that you shared in your video.
I'd say the main issue with not replacing that long bolt is if it is rusted to hell then you are leaving a weak component in there. The bushings might be stuck but the bolt is generally not stuck to the housing so it could fail and come apart. I have in the past torched bushings out and replaced them when it was stuck hard and I was in a hurry. If you have just a bit of rust then you don't have nearly the hassle with getting the bolt out so kind of a catch-22.
Thanks for this vid because it illustrates exactly how it swings out which is not evident in the written instructions. I'd pair this video with the front end video: ruclips.net/video/wGhxpAlRRj8/видео.html You can borrow all of those tools from AutoZone btw. I just did. FWD Hub remover 273037 Slide Hammer Puller Set 27033 Wheel Bearing Tool Set 648741T - this one seems to have all the sizes you need for the seals too which is nice. You will also need a torque wrench capable of 165ftlbs for the axle nut (also available from AutoZone) and two 1/2" breaker bars (Harbor Freight) - one needs to be big cause you need the leverage. You should order all the seals (3 in rear, 2 in front) and the bearings plus a new axle nut. GET JAPANESE or EUROPEAN BEARINGS. Pack the bearings and prep the seals with wheel bearing grease obviously. An alignment is recommended after this.
Love the video, you made it look easy! My Forester is a rust bucket so went to the recycle parts yard and got a whole assembly. I had bought a new bearing and the HF bearing kit, so am pulling the recycled one off. How hard was it to pull, using quite a bit of force and don't want to break something. Thanks!
I put alot of grease on the threads of the bearing puller. Soak the bearing in PB blaster or something of that nature. Let that soak for 12 hours. You can make it happen quick if you have access to a propane torch. Heat the bearing til its red and then put the puller on as quickly as you can. Make sure you have the snap ring out of there. Sometimes they are in there and it requires some good heave-ho.
I have left the nut on the bolt so that it was flush with the end of the bolt and hammered it out. You leave the nut like that so you do not destroy the threads on the nut. Once the nut will not allow the bolt to go any further remove the nut and spray it down with lube and let it sit overnight. grab it with vise grips the next day and turn and pull. Make sure your chalk marks on on first because the bolt may spin when tapping it out.
Here is one from walmart. www.walmart.com/ip/19pcs-Front-Wheel-Hub-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Installation-Puller-For-Car-Repair/454828843?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228239734437&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=286019786306&wl4=pla-483719195729&wl5=9033457&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=454828843&wl13=&veh=sem
Robert F I borrowed it from the auto parts store. I think it was o'reilys. They "rent" tools for free, you put a deposit down, take the tool and get your deposit back when you return it.
Jeremy knight, I suppose that is a possibility. I have done a lot of front hubs on transaxles and have never had an issue. I have only done 5 Subaru rear bearings now so I am no expert. However so far I havent experienced what you are suggesting is a possibility. Use at your own risk folks.
I know but I had already thrown the old race away so I had no choice. But it was in the deep freezer overnight, wrll lubed and here we are almost 10 years later and it's still working great! I lucked out!
@@ekajlewis you wouldn't want to use the race of the other, you'll just get that one stuck in the knuckle. The Harbor Freight press kit just doesn't have the proper size. I used a bushing kit that has the size and works much better than the Harbor Freight junk (which actually got stuck to my knuckle and I had to cut it off). I've installed mine perfectly and also had it done by a mechanic but I've been through like 5 - 6 bearings that keep failing on that specific wheel and I don't know why. I've replaced every other component in that wheel (trailing arms, knuckle, strut, axle, parking brake and cable, rotor, caliper, etc). All the other wheels are fine when replaced. It's driving me crazy.
That's a difficult situation. I understand your point but I often use old races. A few turns around my bench grinder and spindle sander and they are the perfect size. A old tip from when I did my apprenticeship. The HF tool is great, but only up to a point.
You know you could rent that puller set. With the cups and everything in it to change out that Subaru bearing pull it and put it back in. Instead of buying it. It's hard to get a good set. O'Reilly's has it and all the others are you going to do is buy the part from them and they will rent you the pullers
It was not ideal, however, I didnt have anything the proper size when I put the new bearing in. I had already thrown the old race away by the time I put in the new bearing so I pushed it in on the new bearing. A bad idea. But it was right out of the freezer, well lubed and required very little force to seat. 65,000 miles later the bearing is still good! I lucked out!
finally, someone with some common sense. wanted to see if this method worked before i tried it. thank you sir!
You are welcome
your approach is clever….
perhaps genius?
there are dozens of videos on RUclips showing how to replace that bearing
this will save me time and money
thank you!
I tried this method but could not remove those bolts. For the heck of it (as a last resort) I put my impact gun on the lower bolt that is always stuck for everyone and it came right off. A testament to how recently that particular wheel bearing was changed, I guess.
I love the tree stump jack stand! Sometimes ya gotta go with what you have and if it holds the car up, it's all good. Keep wrenching brother.
Bro i have a 2000 and im working my bearings again. This so far is the best tutorial.
Better,easier and faster than other tutorials I’ve seen nice 1 👍
Thank you!
Unbelievable, Im doing this now, after bringing it to a mechanic who wouldn't touch it because the bolt was frozen. I told him " thats why I brought it to you". Still, I have the spindle off and the snap ring out. Thank you so much. I'm half way through. I did exactly as you said and went to harbor Freight for the puller. I found out that NAPA has a loaner set. I'll still keep the set i bought. I may do the other side just for the hell of it.. Thank you so much Tin Man.
I'm sorry the mechanic wouldn't do it. :(
Thank you for commenting, I'm glad this was a help to you. All the best.
On bearing failure, I've noticed even on genuine Subaru ones they don't pack them very consistently. I have started packing them myself.
In the middle of doing this at the moment... I ended up using the slide hammer with the hub puller combo because I didn't feel comfortable putting that much pressure on the CV joints. Worked amazingly well. Regardless. My car is pretty low miles so lucky my lateral link bolt came right out no issue (will slather with anti seize before reinstalling). Got the old outer inner bearing race off the hub with a standard pulley puller, got the old bearing out, now just need to install the new parts tomorrow. Thanks for the recommendations on everything def easier and cheaper than pulling the whole knuckle out 👍
Great stuff, man! I'm dreading the day I have to tackle these bad boys, but I'll definitely be referencing your video when I do. Thanks so much for the assist!
You are welcome! Hope it helps you!
Dude....best video for this on RUclips
Thank You! ;)
Thank you for the video and all the information i have to do both rear bearings and this video helps alot
Thanks bro! I always check RUclips before I do anything nowadays, should be a big help!!!
Bro, you made that look so damn easy. Thank you so much for this.
You are welcome!
Shout out to the tin man for helping significantly with the 11o’clock midnight oil project
Good stuff. Have a 1998 Forester that requires one or two wheelbearings replaced every other year. Will be using your technique soon. Thank you.
wouldn't you just apply anti-seize to the big bolt so that it's easy to get out next time?
tin man - i have the same prob on my 2000 forester - great idea detaching the control arms at their inner attach points! im getting ready to do it -
I agree with everything you did, except when pressing the bearing in imo it shouldn’t be done that way since you’re pressing it in by putting force on the bearing itself instead of placing the pusher on the outer sleeve..
Yep, that's a fact, but I didnt have anything the proper size when I put the new bearing in. I had already thrown the old race away by the time I put in the new bearing so I pushed it in on the new bearing. A bad idea. But it was right out of the freezer, well lubed and required very little force to seat. 50,000 miles later the bearing is still good! I lucked out!
@@ekajlewis Glad it all worked out. I can imagine it would be difficult finding a sleeve exactly that size to push it in. You did a great job!
@@ekajlewis I will finally be doing this job very soon. Watching your video again, it just occurred to me what if I can grind the outside diameter of the old bearing sleeve to something like 0.0002"-0.0003" less and use it to press in the new bearing. Grinding the old sleeve just enough so it fits lose inside the hub. This way we'll make sure we're only pressing onto the outer sleeve and not the ball bearings itself. I'll give it a try, will let you know how it goes.
@@RodrinBird, I think that would work just fine.
How did you stop the hub from spinning when using the puller??? I'm trying right now.. You did not show that???? That's why everyone uses slide hammer?? Thanks for the Video
Tried this on my 94 SVX. It worked amazing. Thank you!
Nice work! Im doing one of these right now. the forward bolt near the diff is seized, but i had the same plan. 😐
That’s the best way I’ve seen to do that thank you
Very clever, outside the box thinking. Don't fight that long bolt. Just work around it.
Thank you for uploading this!
This is great. Thank you. I like the wood for jackstands. Softer and wont damage the metal 😂
Awesome video. What size sockets did you use to get the 2 bolts out on those bars? In the process of doing mine now and have the hub out. Very easy with the tool you used. Thanks in advance
19mm
I know this was 6 years ago. But how in the heck did you get the inside control arm bolt back in? I had to cut it to get it out but it seems like the only way to get it back in is to still remove the Jesus bolt because it can't go in from the front side and it can't go in with the axel in either
I like your video, pretty straight forward. Just an FYI, you should never press against the inner race of the bearing. Luckily, it didn't pop out the other side while you were pressing it in.
P.S. - I like how you improvised and used a tree stump as a jack stand!
ralph - i noticed that.. the correct way should be to press on the outer race to press the bearing into the spindle, then pull on the inner race when pressing the hub into the bearing - you dont want to be putting any pressure at all on the bearings, otherwise you risk pressing them right into the race. i have to think about it whenever i do it -
Thanks, great solution!
Hey I’m in the middle of the procedure you are describing but the bolt that you say isn’t cambered will not come out due to hitting the axel. How were you able to go around this problem?
Is it safe to press on the half shaft to remove the hub?
How did you pop that hub off against the axle? I tried it and instead of the hub popping out, it was pushing the whole axel in. I stopped right there
You might have to heat the hub with a torch if it is seized. Be careful!
Fantastic help I think. I got a 1995 Legacy and got the same parts. My Subaru Garage told me it will cost about 450 Euro. I don´t want to pay so much for.
Thank you, bout to do this to a 90 legacy but needed to just physically see how it all goes together and this helped a lot
I hope it works out for you
Thanks so much. Do you pick the bearing with grease? I couldn't tell from video. Thanks
I bought OEM bearings that were pregreased.
So appreciated thank you! This has been a huge help!!
You are a wonderful person
You certainly thought outside the box on this one. Some questions, once the bearing race containing the bearings is installed and the retainer ring and front seal is fitted. From the back of the hub not from the front, when you installed the hub after the video ended,
1 - did you support the outer race (the outer rim)
or
2 - the bearing its self as the hub was pressed in.
This aspect is contradicted many times by ALL installers. I would think if the bearing itself was not supported the hub would press the bearing out behind as its pressed in.
3 - Also I have the same install kit you got from harbour freight - which # round tool did you use against the back of either the race or the bearing ?.
Once the bearing is pressed in and the snap ring is on you can remove the harbor freight tool and then use the same tool to press the hub into the bearing. The race is seated so it will not push out the back of the knuckle.
However, you do have to support the back side of the bearings when you press the hub in so that the hub doesnt just push the back side of the bearing out.
It's been quite awhile so I cant remember which # disk I used, I'm sorry. But just use the one that fits. I hope it works out well for you!
@@ekajlewis Thanks for your follow up - I tackled this job this morning, we don't have Harbour Freight in Tasmania, so Ebay supplied me an identical knockoff kit you purchased, pulled the hub with the same tool you did and not a slide hammer (no issues) what I did however for the install (fortunate to own a lathe) I relieved the inside recess of tool 955-11 outward approx 3mm so that the tools outer edge would press only upon the bearing race rather than bear on the bearing itself as it does standard, its now a perfect custom tool for the Subaru's bearings. I used that tool to seat the bearing with tool 955-08 in the back hard up against the bearing (not the race) after a night in the freezer and the slightest smear of bearing grease the bearing and the hub both pressed home but under great force. I would hate to press these guys in at room temp. Anyway took it for a run, all quiet and all the grinding nasty noises are gone (for now). What I found is, if the link bolt is removed while the suspension is jacked up hard with pressure under the knuckle , it comes straight out, I tightened the link bolt also under vehicle weight on the knuckle as per the manual. Perhaps that's a trick to getting the link bolt out - no binding at all. I removed the strut bolts, the ABS sensor and the forward control arm so as I could fold the hub down and work on the back of the hub re seals etc horizontally and supported by timber as a makeshift support rather than get under the car and deal with everything awkwardly being in the way. You no doubt have saved people a great deal of grief and I hope my few incidental tips add to taking the frustration out of this job. Its simple as long as you have the right tools that you shared in your video.
@@glencoughlan2209 , great feedback and tips! I'm sure your comments will help someone. :)
I'd say the main issue with not replacing that long bolt is if it is rusted to hell then you are leaving a weak component in there. The bushings might be stuck but the bolt is generally not stuck to the housing so it could fail and come apart. I have in the past torched bushings out and replaced them when it was stuck hard and I was in a hurry. If you have just a bit of rust then you don't have nearly the hassle with getting the bolt out so kind of a catch-22.
you make a good point
Very helpful video, friend. Cheers! 🙌🔧 🍺
I can’t press the bearing out! I’m stuck and I’ve broke a breaker bar trying already and I might break another! Any tips?
Heat can be your friend. Do you have a torch by chance?
Thanks for this vid because it illustrates exactly how it swings out which is not evident in the written instructions. I'd pair this video with the front end video: ruclips.net/video/wGhxpAlRRj8/видео.html
You can borrow all of those tools from AutoZone btw. I just did.
FWD Hub remover 273037
Slide Hammer Puller Set 27033
Wheel Bearing Tool Set 648741T - this one seems to have all the sizes you need for the seals too which is nice.
You will also need a torque wrench capable of 165ftlbs for the axle nut (also available from AutoZone) and two 1/2" breaker bars (Harbor Freight) - one needs to be big cause you need the leverage.
You should order all the seals (3 in rear, 2 in front) and the bearings plus a new axle nut. GET JAPANESE or EUROPEAN BEARINGS. Pack the bearings and prep the seals with wheel bearing grease obviously.
An alignment is recommended after this.
Love the video, you made it look easy! My Forester is a rust bucket so went to the recycle parts yard and got a whole assembly. I had bought a new bearing and the HF bearing kit, so am pulling the recycled one off. How hard was it to pull, using quite a bit of force and don't want to break something. Thanks!
I put alot of grease on the threads of the bearing puller. Soak the bearing in PB blaster or something of that nature. Let that soak for 12 hours.
You can make it happen quick if you have access to a propane torch. Heat the bearing til its red and then put the puller on as quickly as you can.
Make sure you have the snap ring out of there.
Sometimes they are in there and it requires some good heave-ho.
Thank you so much! so helpful
You are welcome!
Great idea thanks
This might be a dumb question but would it be the same process if I have brake rotars in the rear instead of drums?
I believe the process will be the same once you remove the caliper and rotor.
@@ekajlewis yeah that's what I figured lol thanks!
Soo what if the cambered bolt doesn’t come out? On a 2001 suburu forester that is what has happened. Any tips there?
I have left the nut on the bolt so that it was flush with the end of the bolt and hammered it out. You leave the nut like that so you do not destroy the threads on the nut. Once the nut will not allow the bolt to go any further remove the nut and spray it down with lube and let it sit overnight. grab it with vise grips the next day and turn and pull. Make sure your chalk marks on on first because the bolt may spin when tapping it out.
What is the bearing or race removal tool called bc I can only find a hammering driver set
Here is one from walmart.
www.walmart.com/ip/19pcs-Front-Wheel-Hub-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Installation-Puller-For-Car-Repair/454828843?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228239734437&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=286019786306&wl4=pla-483719195729&wl5=9033457&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=454828843&wl13=&veh=sem
Did you use the same tool to press the hub back in? There isn't any video on that
Yes, use the same tool to press the hub in once the bearing is seated.
@@ekajlewis thank you very much! What was used to support the inner race when pressing in the hub?
@@b96kid , hmm, it's been a few years since I have done this now. Cant remember what I used to support the inner race.
Great video do you have a link for the deep hub puller where to purchase?
m.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63728.html?Fnot provided
Lmao every subaru I've owned has had a bad right rear bearing 😂 always that side
Mines the back left... Lucky me right? lmao
Is it the same process to replace it cause mine just went bad right rear side
I've got a bad left on my first Subaru!
Im next. 2000 impreza outback 145,000
Bad right rear checking in
YESSS THANK YOU
I can't the bolt out of the one control arm it just keeps spinning
Good advice. Well done. Thanks 👌
How did you get the hub back in ?
I used the same tool that I put the bearing in with.
Awesome ! Thanks for the fast reply
Thanks, great help and not lengthy
I dropped the pumpkin and then the axles come out it's not too hard to get the pumpkin out
Great video. Thanks
Ya on my 99 forester l did the same. I think most people are scared of upsetting their alignment.
Thank you 🙏
You are welcome!
2020 I kid you not my 2000 subaru forester right rear wheel bearing went... and the spindle bolt came right out, I know insane.
Why not just change whole wheel hub assembly?
The 1999 does not have bolt on rear hubs like the newer vehicles have.
What did you do with the inner seals???
Removed the old and installed new. You never use old seals. Sorry for not putting that in the video. Make sure you always install new seals.
@@ekajlewis Got it thanks!
Legend
i like your jack stand!!! hahaha
Is this a 1999 forester?
Jorgen Mankie this is a 1999 Impreza
Where did you get the hub puller?
Robert F I borrowed it from the auto parts store. I think it was o'reilys. They "rent" tools for free, you put a deposit down, take the tool and get your deposit back when you return it.
You NEVER put that much pressure on the CV-axle(puller)! You can crack the differential case!!!
Jeremy knight, I suppose that is a possibility. I have done a lot of front hubs on transaxles and have never had an issue. I have only done 5 Subaru rear bearings now so I am no expert. However so far I havent experienced what you are suggesting is a possibility. Use at your own risk folks.
Wish me luck lmao
Except in this case where he put exactly that much pressure on it and it worked fine...
@@mharradine57 yeah good for him. But in my case it happens!😤
And it's not working I need your type tool but cant fone omw
Harbor freight sells them or you can borrow one from one of the big name parts stores.
You're applying pressure on the inner race. You're gonna have to redo this very soon.
I know but I had already thrown the old race away so I had no choice. But it was in the deep freezer overnight, wrll lubed and here we are almost 10 years later and it's still working great! I lucked out!
@@ekajlewis you wouldn't want to use the race of the other, you'll just get that one stuck in the knuckle. The Harbor Freight press kit just doesn't have the proper size. I used a bushing kit that has the size and works much better than the Harbor Freight junk (which actually got stuck to my knuckle and I had to cut it off).
I've installed mine perfectly and also had it done by a mechanic but I've been through like 5 - 6 bearings that keep failing on that specific wheel and I don't know why. I've replaced every other component in that wheel (trailing arms, knuckle, strut, axle, parking brake and cable, rotor, caliper, etc).
All the other wheels are fine when replaced. It's driving me crazy.
That's a difficult situation.
I understand your point but I often use old races. A few turns around my bench grinder and spindle sander and they are the perfect size. A old tip from when I did my apprenticeship. The HF tool is great, but only up to a point.
You know you could rent that puller set. With the cups and everything in it to change out that Subaru bearing pull it and put it back in. Instead of buying it. It's hard to get a good set. O'Reilly's has it and all the others are you going to do is buy the part from them and they will rent you the pullers
Creative thinking you must be a Libra.
worst design Subaru ever did.
DUDE, you just ruined the outer bearing by pressing the bearing and not the outer race.
It was not ideal, however, I didnt have anything the proper size when I put the new bearing in. I had already thrown the old race away by the time I put in the new bearing so I pushed it in on the new bearing. A bad idea. But it was right out of the freezer, well lubed and required very little force to seat. 65,000 miles later the bearing is still good! I lucked out!
I’m doing my rust bucket wheel bearing next week . This shit is annoying .
Once I do that I’ll sell this shit box for $700.00
I purchased all needed tools to do my own work on my 07 Subaru because the so called mechanic in my area even the dealership ones are fucking stupid.
One
P