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Tin Man
Добавлен 11 июн 2007
Christ Gave All For Me, I Desire To Give All For Christ
Видео
1999 Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Просмотров 84 тыс.6 лет назад
Short and sweet video on how to replace a Subaru wheel bearing. I made this because I couldn't find a short and to the point video. Tool to pull bearing and put a new bearing and hub in can be found here: m.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63728.html?Fnot provided
You're applying pressure on the inner race. You're gonna have to redo this very soon.
I know but I had already thrown the old race away so I had no choice. But it was in the deep freezer overnight, wrll lubed and here we are almost 10 years later and it's still working great! I lucked out!
@@ekajlewis you wouldn't want to use the race of the other, you'll just get that one stuck in the knuckle. The Harbor Freight press kit just doesn't have the proper size. I used a bushing kit that has the size and works much better than the Harbor Freight junk (which actually got stuck to my knuckle and I had to cut it off). I've installed mine perfectly and also had it done by a mechanic but I've been through like 5 - 6 bearings that keep failing on that specific wheel and I don't know why. I've replaced every other component in that wheel (trailing arms, knuckle, strut, axle, parking brake and cable, rotor, caliper, etc). All the other wheels are fine when replaced. It's driving me crazy.
That's a difficult situation. I understand your point but I often use old races. A few turns around my bench grinder and spindle sander and they are the perfect size. A old tip from when I did my apprenticeship. The HF tool is great, but only up to a point.
I know this was 6 years ago. But how in the heck did you get the inside control arm bolt back in? I had to cut it to get it out but it seems like the only way to get it back in is to still remove the Jesus bolt because it can't go in from the front side and it can't go in with the axel in either
In the middle of doing this at the moment... I ended up using the slide hammer with the hub puller combo because I didn't feel comfortable putting that much pressure on the CV joints. Worked amazingly well. Regardless. My car is pretty low miles so lucky my lateral link bolt came right out no issue (will slather with anti seize before reinstalling). Got the old outer inner bearing race off the hub with a standard pulley puller, got the old bearing out, now just need to install the new parts tomorrow. Thanks for the recommendations on everything def easier and cheaper than pulling the whole knuckle out 👍
Thanks, great solution!
Tried this on my 94 SVX. It worked amazing. Thank you!
How did you pop that hub off against the axle? I tried it and instead of the hub popping out, it was pushing the whole axel in. I stopped right there
You might have to heat the hub with a torch if it is seized. Be careful!
Is it safe to press on the half shaft to remove the hub?
Thank you for uploading this!
Did you have to torch it to get it to pop?
I did not, however my area has no salt on the roads in winter.
@@ekajlewis yeah, my area is notorious for rusting the heck out of these late 90s subarus. I did the trick where you put the bolt through the hole on the hub and tighten the nut to crack it while I had a 2 jaw puller on the hub and it wouldn't break. I even torched it with the puller tensioned and still nothing. The only thing I can think of now is to remove the entire spindle and borrow someone's hydraulic press (or fashion my own) to press the damned thing out. I've never had so much trouble with a wheel bearing in my life.
I can’t press the bearing out! I’m stuck and I’ve broke a breaker bar trying already and I might break another! Any tips?
Heat can be your friend. Do you have a torch by chance?
Man im glad i looked before i just went and tried to do it myself lol!
Very helpful video, friend. Cheers! 🙌🔧 🍺
You are a wonderful person
Bro, you made that look so damn easy. Thank you so much for this.
You are welcome!
Shout out to the tin man for helping significantly with the 11o’clock midnight oil project
your approach is clever…. perhaps genius? there are dozens of videos on RUclips showing how to replace that bearing this will save me time and money thank you!
I tried this method but could not remove those bolts. For the heck of it (as a last resort) I put my impact gun on the lower bolt that is always stuck for everyone and it came right off. A testament to how recently that particular wheel bearing was changed, I guess.
Why not just change whole wheel hub assembly?
The 1999 does not have bolt on rear hubs like the newer vehicles have.
I'd say the main issue with not replacing that long bolt is if it is rusted to hell then you are leaving a weak component in there. The bushings might be stuck but the bolt is generally not stuck to the housing so it could fail and come apart. I have in the past torched bushings out and replaced them when it was stuck hard and I was in a hurry. If you have just a bit of rust then you don't have nearly the hassle with getting the bolt out so kind of a catch-22.
you make a good point
Great stuff, man! I'm dreading the day I have to tackle these bad boys, but I'll definitely be referencing your video when I do. Thanks so much for the assist!
You are welcome! Hope it helps you!
worst design Subaru ever did.
I dropped the pumpkin and then the axles come out it's not too hard to get the pumpkin out
Legend
Good stuff. Have a 1998 Forester that requires one or two wheelbearings replaced every other year. Will be using your technique soon. Thank you.
wouldn't you just apply anti-seize to the big bolt so that it's easy to get out next time?
On bearing failure, I've noticed even on genuine Subaru ones they don't pack them very consistently. I have started packing them myself.
Ya on my 99 forester l did the same. I think most people are scared of upsetting their alignment.
I can't the bolt out of the one control arm it just keeps spinning
Awesome video. What size sockets did you use to get the 2 bolts out on those bars? In the process of doing mine now and have the hub out. Very easy with the tool you used. Thanks in advance
19mm
Great idea thanks
Thank you for the video and all the information i have to do both rear bearings and this video helps alot
P
2020 I kid you not my 2000 subaru forester right rear wheel bearing went... and the spindle bolt came right out, I know insane.
Soo what if the cambered bolt doesn’t come out? On a 2001 suburu forester that is what has happened. Any tips there?
I have left the nut on the bolt so that it was flush with the end of the bolt and hammered it out. You leave the nut like that so you do not destroy the threads on the nut. Once the nut will not allow the bolt to go any further remove the nut and spray it down with lube and let it sit overnight. grab it with vise grips the next day and turn and pull. Make sure your chalk marks on on first because the bolt may spin when tapping it out.
I love the tree stump jack stand! Sometimes ya gotta go with what you have and if it holds the car up, it's all good. Keep wrenching brother.
DUDE, you just ruined the outer bearing by pressing the bearing and not the outer race.
It was not ideal, however, I didnt have anything the proper size when I put the new bearing in. I had already thrown the old race away by the time I put in the new bearing so I pushed it in on the new bearing. A bad idea. But it was right out of the freezer, well lubed and required very little force to seat. 65,000 miles later the bearing is still good! I lucked out!
Very clever, outside the box thinking. Don't fight that long bolt. Just work around it.
YESSS THANK YOU
Thank you, bout to do this to a 90 legacy but needed to just physically see how it all goes together and this helped a lot
I hope it works out for you
You certainly thought outside the box on this one. Some questions, once the bearing race containing the bearings is installed and the retainer ring and front seal is fitted. From the back of the hub not from the front, when you installed the hub after the video ended, 1 - did you support the outer race (the outer rim) or 2 - the bearing its self as the hub was pressed in. This aspect is contradicted many times by ALL installers. I would think if the bearing itself was not supported the hub would press the bearing out behind as its pressed in. 3 - Also I have the same install kit you got from harbour freight - which # round tool did you use against the back of either the race or the bearing ?.
Once the bearing is pressed in and the snap ring is on you can remove the harbor freight tool and then use the same tool to press the hub into the bearing. The race is seated so it will not push out the back of the knuckle. However, you do have to support the back side of the bearings when you press the hub in so that the hub doesnt just push the back side of the bearing out. It's been quite awhile so I cant remember which # disk I used, I'm sorry. But just use the one that fits. I hope it works out well for you!
@@ekajlewis Thanks for your follow up - I tackled this job this morning, we don't have Harbour Freight in Tasmania, so Ebay supplied me an identical knockoff kit you purchased, pulled the hub with the same tool you did and not a slide hammer (no issues) what I did however for the install (fortunate to own a lathe) I relieved the inside recess of tool 955-11 outward approx 3mm so that the tools outer edge would press only upon the bearing race rather than bear on the bearing itself as it does standard, its now a perfect custom tool for the Subaru's bearings. I used that tool to seat the bearing with tool 955-08 in the back hard up against the bearing (not the race) after a night in the freezer and the slightest smear of bearing grease the bearing and the hub both pressed home but under great force. I would hate to press these guys in at room temp. Anyway took it for a run, all quiet and all the grinding nasty noises are gone (for now). What I found is, if the link bolt is removed while the suspension is jacked up hard with pressure under the knuckle , it comes straight out, I tightened the link bolt also under vehicle weight on the knuckle as per the manual. Perhaps that's a trick to getting the link bolt out - no binding at all. I removed the strut bolts, the ABS sensor and the forward control arm so as I could fold the hub down and work on the back of the hub re seals etc horizontally and supported by timber as a makeshift support rather than get under the car and deal with everything awkwardly being in the way. You no doubt have saved people a great deal of grief and I hope my few incidental tips add to taking the frustration out of this job. Its simple as long as you have the right tools that you shared in your video.
@@glencoughlan2209 , great feedback and tips! I'm sure your comments will help someone. :)
Creative thinking you must be a Libra.
That’s the best way I’ve seen to do that thank you
This is great. Thank you. I like the wood for jackstands. Softer and wont damage the metal 😂
Better,easier and faster than other tutorials I’ve seen nice 1 👍
Thank you!
Hey I’m in the middle of the procedure you are describing but the bolt that you say isn’t cambered will not come out due to hitting the axel. How were you able to go around this problem?
I’m doing my rust bucket wheel bearing next week . This shit is annoying . Once I do that I’ll sell this shit box for $700.00
Bro i have a 2000 and im working my bearings again. This so far is the best tutorial.
finally, someone with some common sense. wanted to see if this method worked before i tried it. thank you sir!
You are welcome
Thank you so much! so helpful
You are welcome!
Thanks so much. Do you pick the bearing with grease? I couldn't tell from video. Thanks
I bought OEM bearings that were pregreased.
Thank you 🙏
You are welcome!