Kind of a new subscriber so I've been watching your backlog of videos which are very helpful. I'm also new to the 1/24th segment of the hobby - been into 10th, 1/8th (and 1/32) scale for decades though. The one thing I've noticed about SCX24 vehicles is that the upper right rear suspension link always binds with the optional 50 size motors. No problems with the stock 30 size, but always a problem with the larger 50 size (specially on belly dragers). I've bought links from Injora and other brands and they all bind. I've had to grind down the top of the links and the back of the motor to get any kind of acceptable suspension compression or articulation. Am I the only one with this issue - besides you on this particular video because I've never heard any content providers mention this flaw. What do you do in cases like these or are there any manufacturers with links designed not to bind with 50 size motors. Thanking you in advance for your input. Cheers!
You can space the motor up by spacing the transmission housing up a few mm. You can also just shim the motor side under the trans to help tilt the motor up. Or just don’t compress as much. Or grind the motor or get custom bent links.
11:00 I am surprised that your drive shafts don't disconnect when you let them drop all the way (without shocks mounted) i have that problem on several builds, have to be carewul not to let them drop or use limiting straps.
@@rcjoe406 Never tried it, so just pizzing in the wind here..... but I wonder if you could heat and bend the ends? Thread the rod into the ball end so not to distort that part. Heat the end that captures the ball (maybe with the ball in or maybe not?) and bend with pliers. Just have to make sure to get them very close to the same. Perhaps worth building a little bending fixture. Alternative would be to get a coupling nut to fit the threaded shaft of the link arms. Spin it on, then back it off a hair and use the coupling nut to bend the threaded section of the link arm. Need to make sure you're bending the correct way and also not bend too much.
These unfortunately do not fit the FCX24 as the screw size is the next size down! FCX24 uses a 1.5mm hex head and these are like 0.9mm! Ask me how I know... :(
I have another video showing me using them for fcx24 axles. You swap the end links. The reason these links are great is because you can do custom link end where one end is the scx24 m1.4 screw and the other is the fcx24 m2. Or even for the TRX4M m2.5 screws. Check out our other video showing how we did custom links for our fcx/scx hybrid monster truck. ruclips.net/video/VNiZ38bc52E/видео.html
@@TheShopMiniRC Thanks so much for that! Unfortunately I'll have to chop them down a little as the link is 19mm as opposed to the link ends of the Injora being 15mm....I bought the link set with the length I need so adding a longer link end will add to the overall length. I've noticed that if things are out by half a millimetre on these tiny rigs it makes a huge difference :(. Do you know if the brass ball inner will fit into the Injora shocks? The 39mm set I bought also have the smaller holes and mounting screws and a need a ball that will fit with a 2mm hole!
@@leerushby2364 I am not sure. I def have had some m1.4 balls fit in where an m2 ball was (or vice versa, I can’t remember) but I can’t remember what brand or where they came from. Worst cause you can always drill out the ball screw hole to get the m2 sized hole.
Way to recycle footage and get two videos out of one sly guy...lol Juuuust kidding... becsuse i've watched the full build video like 3 times already anyway...lol "Tunable links" ...and Ribbit Ribbit!! 🐸 Lol
Hahhaahh SHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhh I figured that many might want to see just the link portion and would never find it in the full video. Same with the +4 Injora Axles.. same footage lol (most of it anyway)
I just built my Injora buggy! Waiting on my receiver and battery to arrive and I’ll be ready to crawl! 🤘
Tunable links are nice. You showed that on these little guys, a mm or two can make a big difference. 👍
Yes they do
good point that rod-end links are a good way to adapt between the three systems (and others)!
Exactly why we like these ones!
You can get the rod ends shaight from injora. I think it was under $5.00 for 20ct.
Good tip. They didn’t used to sell them like that.
Kind of a new subscriber so I've been watching your backlog of videos which are very helpful. I'm also new to the 1/24th segment of the hobby - been into 10th, 1/8th (and 1/32) scale for decades though. The one thing I've noticed about SCX24 vehicles is that the upper right rear suspension link always binds with the optional 50 size motors. No problems with the stock 30 size, but always a problem with the larger 50 size (specially on belly dragers). I've bought links from Injora and other brands and they all bind. I've had to grind down the top of the links and the back of the motor to get any kind of acceptable suspension compression or articulation. Am I the only one with this issue - besides you on this particular video because I've never heard any content providers mention this flaw. What do you do in cases like these or are there any manufacturers with links designed not to bind with 50 size motors. Thanking you in advance for your input. Cheers!
You can space the motor up by spacing the transmission housing up a few mm. You can also just shim the motor side under the trans to help tilt the motor up. Or just don’t compress as much. Or grind the motor or get custom bent links.
Good point on the mixed-use of the ends.
Our main reason for liking these!
Tuneable links, awesome idea! I am gonna be trying this at some point
Please do!! Thanks a ton for watching.
great video as always!how many spacers i have to put in the upper and in the down back links for fcx24 k5 injora links?
I’d just throw them in there until you have the tuning you want on them.
The best part of these is getting them setup how you want.
tunable links are great for a custom build!!
Thanks a ton for watching! We love that we can use different ends if needed!
Tunable links 😎👍
Thanks for watching
11:00 I am surprised that your drive shafts don't disconnect when you let them drop all the way (without shocks mounted) i have that problem on several builds, have to be carewul not to let them drop or use limiting straps.
Yeah, just depends on how long your shafts are.
@@TheShopMiniRC that’s…. what she said 🤭
@@SH-ry2xi facts.
Would be nice if they made a motor side link with a bend or something in it ..all my builds the link hits my motors
yeah.. its easy enough to trim or shim though. but i feel you
@@TheShopMiniRC true.. kool gonna see if I can trim it
@@rcjoe406 Never tried it, so just pizzing in the wind here..... but I wonder if you could heat and bend the ends? Thread the rod into the ball end so not to distort that part. Heat the end that captures the ball (maybe with the ball in or maybe not?) and bend with pliers. Just have to make sure to get them very close to the same. Perhaps worth building a little bending fixture.
Alternative would be to get a coupling nut to fit the threaded shaft of the link arms. Spin it on, then back it off a hair and use the coupling nut to bend the threaded section of the link arm. Need to make sure you're bending the correct way and also not bend too much.
Just curious do you speed these videos up a touch??
yes, about 20%. It helps save everyone time ;-)
These unfortunately do not fit the FCX24 as the screw size is the next size down! FCX24 uses a 1.5mm hex head and these are like 0.9mm! Ask me how I know... :(
I have another video showing me using them for fcx24 axles. You swap the end links. The reason these links are great is because you can do custom link end where one end is the scx24 m1.4 screw and the other is the fcx24 m2. Or even for the TRX4M m2.5 screws. Check out our other video showing how we did custom links for our fcx/scx hybrid monster truck.
ruclips.net/video/VNiZ38bc52E/видео.html
@@TheShopMiniRC Thanks so much for that! Unfortunately I'll have to chop them down a little as the link is 19mm as opposed to the link ends of the Injora being 15mm....I bought the link set with the length I need so adding a longer link end will add to the overall length. I've noticed that if things are out by half a millimetre on these tiny rigs it makes a huge difference :(.
Do you know if the brass ball inner will fit into the Injora shocks? The 39mm set I bought also have the smaller holes and mounting screws and a need a ball that will fit with a 2mm hole!
@@leerushby2364 I am not sure. I def have had some m1.4 balls fit in where an m2 ball was (or vice versa, I can’t remember) but I can’t remember what brand or where they came from. Worst cause you can always drill out the ball screw hole to get the m2 sized hole.
@@TheShopMiniRC Cheers for the help. I have a few I can try, but as you say I can always drill them out ;)
where does that rear truss come from?
OGRC. Here is the brass version: amzn.to/3j8jeWR
And the aluminum: amzn.to/3DhLCwm
Tunable links :)
Thanks a ton for watching!!!
Way to recycle footage and get two videos out of one sly guy...lol
Juuuust kidding... becsuse i've watched the full build video like 3 times already anyway...lol
"Tunable links" ...and Ribbit Ribbit!! 🐸 Lol
Hahhaahh SHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhh I figured that many might want to see just the link portion and would never find it in the full video. Same with the +4 Injora Axles.. same footage lol (most of it anyway)