I paid someone to do my bbk. Then I found out about all these bbk not really being true upgrades. Met a guy at church whose son had a 50cc that he planned to upgrade. He bought the bbk and then his son sold the scooter! He just gave me the kit so I have now torn the whole scooter apart and have been trying to piece it back together over the last two years (my first attempt It started up all fine and then died on me after 5 mins of riding it. Bought a compression tester and ended up with not enough compression). My gasket set just came in the mail, this is the FIRST in depth video that I’ve come across with full in depth information. Now I’m second guessing my ring placement on the piston head and I’m glad I didn’t get further than getting the piston in the cylinder. God bless you for taking the time to make such an in depth video!
@@GhettoWrenchspent all day putting it back together. Unfortunately I couldn’t get it to start. It would run for less than a second when I hit it with some ether but wouldn’t stay running. I’m gonna compression test it cuz there is no way it’s a timing issue (I think that’s what I had wrong last time). This time I had my cam lined up exactly like yours but my cam has two small holes and no big one like your cam did. I also have 1 bolt that won’t tighten on the valve cover. My assumption is that’s no bueno…
@ryanpage1665 fuel delivery. The biggest problem on these. If it fires on ether and then dies then it works. It just needs fuel. Sometimes I have to drain the float with the pump on to let out the air. You have an electric pump?
@@GhettoWrench no electric pump. I primed the lines before trying to start it tho so it’s not sucking air and my battery juice. I did do a compression test and got 35 psi…from what I’ve read I should be between 90 and 130. I just borrowed a micrometer to measure the piston diameter to get a new head gasket because I reused the same one during my first attempt, still don’t know what to do about the valve cover not bolt that won’t tighten problem other then getting a new cylinder head because I think I over tightened the cover to the head my first attempt which is why it won’t tighten now even with a different bolt. I will put a bigger idle and main in the carb just to see if that’s it before I tear the engine all down again, much quicker and easier. Where do you get your parts from? I don’t have a nice scooter like yours, I bought a used Tao Tao ATM 50A1 to save money during the summer driving it and I’m wishing I bought a more name brand one instead but it seems that they all use the same 139 QMB 50cc engine so I’m not fully convinced it matters (as long as it’s running…).
@ryanpage1665 ya these 139qmb are all the same. You stripped the little 6mm (takes 8mm socket) that holds the valve cover in? No biggie on that, you may see some oil leak but need to get it running first. 1 usually get 180 to 210 psi on compression. Below 120 will not usually run too good. A cam like an A9 cam can give you poor compression during cranking at low RPM but still not below 120 ish. Maybe you blew that head gasket. It should be bone dry when you install it. Oil will make it blow. Did you use a Torque wrench? Perhaps it is not tight enough.
I'm glad you're building 139qmb's and taking the time. The Naraku and Ssp-g kits all day! Me and some of my buddies over at S.A. mostly official are into building these lil engines up to show what they can do. This is my fourth build My 139qmb- #1 Uni filter 20mm round slide carb 20mm pit bike intake manifold Ssp-g 52mm 23.5/20.1 head Ssp-g titanium valve retainers Ncy cam Ssp-g 52mm flat top piston and jug Taida 44mm stroker crankshaft - 22 tooth sprocket Ncy ignition Ssp-g full exhaust system All emissions, vacuum lines and fuel pump have been deleted - gravity feed fuel line setup Ssp-g 89mm variator - longer ramps! Ssp-g drive face Gates power link belt Ncy clutch bell Ncy clutch Ncy secondary sheve 1,000 rpm clutch springs Stock contra Ncy contra ball bearing kit Ncy 18/46 secondary gears - 2.55 139qmb #2 Foam filter 20mm round slide carb Gy6 125cc 22mm intake manifold vs150cc 24mm Ssp-g 23/20 head pocket port, open exhaust to 18.8, mild valve deshroud and milled. Scooterarmy's S.A88 52mm dome top piston Stock crank Amazon exhaust No emissions b.s. 92mm TWH variator Ssp-g drive face Stock modded clutch and bell 1,000 rpm clutch and contra springs 17/49 secondary gears - 2.88
Cool. So my best results on variater so far have been a 95mm NCY dio variator I modified. I have a 89mm NCY one also. I was hoping to make this polini 95 work, but so far does not seem that great. Do yall use the 89mm then?
Mine? 81cc big headed bitch wit high lifting cam because it's stoned wit 64mm rockers from rolling wrench Denver an 72cc piston in its own hole from gy6 racing an NYC CVt with tight spring. Bando wide belt . Bando ignition coil. Adjustable cdi. I forgot who's probably a lie. Lights are hand made by me . Carb ... Pwk built by Matt from rolling wrench hopefully.
Ayeeee yo I watched this so many times before i did it myself lol First start took a awhile had me worried af but it was battery🤷🏻 Working on it in this florida heat but it was worth it for my "100" cc Godbless you!
Love ur videos man u do explain things to a t. And that I like . And straight to the point too don't do this or do that . Tell it like it is keep up the good work man . A long time sub here until the next one
Yeah thats by the book. Its a fairly simple engine to work on as its a clone of a ancient honda engine. The timing chain and cam 3 hole position also pretty much applies to any honda monkey clone chinese dirtbike engine. The positioning is a little diffrent but by principle.
@@GhettoWrenchSame, I'm just now figuring out how to find replies to comments on here. I just got the high pressure fuel plumbed in on mine with an intake referenced regulator and I'm about to test ride it using a PZ20 carb I put on last week. The process of figuring out what the hell I'm doing with the high pressure fuel loop was confusing and convoluted because I had to dig through a lot of different info, and in the end trial and error taught me things I would probably have had to do a lot more reading/watching to figure out. It's overkill, but I was able to reach the 1.5psi I was aiming for down from 125psi the pump rockets out.
Excellent video! Thank you! I have a stock 150cc. Big Bore is next. Out of the crate, I got just about 52mph. I did a Nibbi carb upgrade with an exhaust upgrade. A little bit of carb tuning, I'm at 58 to 59 mph. No CV tuning. Running bone stock. Hoping that with a big bore kit, and some CV tuning, I'll get 65 mph our of it. Thanks again for another great video!
Your welcome. I love the 171 kit on my black one. When you get to 68mph stop. Don't do the rear end gear up mod. The 70mph speed is just bragging rights. The bike was funner and better before the gears. Def do the 115mm variator and 842 belt AFTER the big bore kit. It is good everywhere.
@@GhettoWrenchthanks for the 70mph tip! I live near a a pretty major road hers in Florida, and I just didn't want to get run over doing the 55mph speed limit. LOL! It's always good to have some spare speed in the reserve. Thanks for the reply, looking forward to your next one!
I heard about gy6s for years, the robust, standardized true engine for scooters and small bikes, but I didn't know it was a swing arm. I want to mount it on a minibike.
Good way to get a swingarm on the mini I guess. Just make the mount like an axle or a swingarm pivot and run a shock from the frame to the rear case. Shoukd be doable. DO a 150 tho. Cheap on ebay and come with all the stuff like CDI and coil.
@@GhettoWrench Yeah, I would be happy with a hardtail, but free rear suspension, won't complain. I want this 50cc 2 stroke, I like 2 strokes, and I don't plan on highway use. And I could potentially weld some faux bicycle pedals on it and claim it as a motorized bike. It would be safer if they were both fixed forward anyway, I plan on having full signals on it.
I have a question...I have looked all over the internet for about an hour now and can't seem to find a coherent answer,maybe you can help me..I am fixing to install a 50mm bbk made by Glixal..the kit came with a new oil pump,and timing chain..Do I need to replace both the oil pump and chain or will the factory chain and pump be fine to use..I am asking just to be sure..If I don't need to change them i'd rather not..thanks for the help in advance...Oh I forgot to mention I am upgrading a 49cc Linhai Scooter...
@spidervenom3341 I can not imagine why you would need to replace though. Not even sure why the kit came with those. Putting that cam chain is a lot of work. LOL. You should be good to just toss those parts in a drawer and forget about them
@@GhettoWrench Yeah..That's what I thought...Thank you for the response..My wife and really enjoy your videos the way you break them down into simplistic terms is a total plus..I followed your bbk installment video to the mark..Still have a little work left to do before I can start her up,but can't wait..Thanks again for the response and the videos...
So what is all the lubrication I need? I have Lucas oil assembly lube and the scooter oil and gear oil. Where do I put what? I have my head and cylinder right in front of me and I’ve put the piston back on. To put the boss back in the piston I used assembly line. And only on the boss.
Amazing video! I just almost finished putting a Glixal 72cc bbk on my maddog thanks to your video! I just need to pick up a torque wrench and set my valves and I'll be good. The kit came with 2 red little rubber things I have no clue what they are for but it all went great so far. Do you have to put back the plastic coverings over the engine? Everything is easier to access with the plastics off so I was wondering if it would mess anything up if I left it off? I would just put the one over the fan and variator. I'm waiting for the variator removal tool to arrive so I can swap that one out with a Glixal 89mm variator. Not sure if this will make a change. I bought it before I watched your variator video and saw the stock maddog is 86mm. Oh well.
@jayb5623 I think those red things are valve guides. Prob don't need Them. The NCY performance variator is also 89mm. I'm going to try that. I think the 95mm is still too big. Did you see this video on the plastic covers? They are prob most important over the cylinder. ruclips.net/video/BSCja6Pt8PU/видео.htmlsi=5oM8Gh19CYUJa1zi
Thank you. I didn't see the other video till now. After I made the post I was on the scooter forums and saw the plastics are a major necessity for these bikes. Learned something new😊 My variator removal tool won't be here Wednesday but I'm excited to swap that out. I'm getting a torque wrench after work today to finish the bbk. Did you have to end up changing your main jet after your install? I have the PE19mm Nibbi carb so I might have to increase the main jet size when I finish the bbk. When I put that Nibbi on it worked best for me to leave the 2 jets the same as they came but I moved the needle hight to 5 and dialed it in.
And all the plastic on your motor is to let it breath and get air so it doesn't over heat not that you would be able to tell cause it's an air cooled motor@@jayb5623
@VmtSquad these are called Maddogs. They are chinese knockoffs of a already stretched Ruckus. Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/kYyhQwBhnu4/видео.htmlsi=6uCxCwYXK--dMvv2
@@GhettoWrench thanks brother, just picked up a ruckus plastic cover of masketplace for cheap. Will try to fit it the best I can on my chineese scoot Im building. Your videos help so much thanks!
I will be interested to see your thoughts on the Naraku parts. I have had nothing but bad luck with their stuff. Probably just picking the crappier stuff they make, but who knows.
100% Agree. And before I hated the brand I had used this 100.52 kit and had great luck with it. Kinda hoping it melts so I can try the Taida 88cc kit for comparison.
Привет из Германии, скажите пожалуйста какая степень сжатия на Naraku 12:1 или больше? И сколько примерно развивает мотор на этой поршневой мощности, kW, или PS?
@GhettoWrench конечно нет таких значениях у продавца,я думал вы сами измеряли степень сжатия, то есть проливали камеру сгорания на собранном двигателе,есть формула расчета степени сжатия например камера сгорания у вас 8ссm .объем двигателя 90ccm ,по формуле нужно сделать так 90+8:8=12.25степень сжатия получается, степень сжатия очень влияет на мощность двигателя и на отзывчивость, естественно чем больше степень сжатия те более высокооктановый бензин нужен, например от 12,5 уже нужен бензин с98 октановым числом ,если меньше есть риск при нагреве будет детонация,то есть бензин будет воспламеняться не от искры свечи зажигания а от давления в цилиндре то есть как на дизельном моторе, поэтому и нужен высокооктановый бензин, Я просто спросил у вас потому что видел то что вы головку цилиндра не фрезеровали (не садили ниже относительно к поршню,то есть не уменьшали камеру сгорания) вот и подумал что там уже достаточная степень сжатия уже есть,если есть хотя бы 13-13,5это очень хорошо P.s. Не путайте компрессию и степень сжатия двигателя это абсолютно разные значения,если у вас компрессия будет 13 а степень сжатия например 8.5 мотор просто не поедет как положено!!!
@GhettoWrench ещё меня удивило то что вы не проверили герметичность клапанов и наличие фасок на сёдлах по хорошему их нужно прирезать зенкерами ,должно быть три фаски клапана 45°-30°-60° градусов соответственно,и впускной канал должен быть хотя бы 24 мм на током впускном клапане,то есть в головке нужно расширить впускной канал полностью для более лучшего прохождения воздушно топливной смеси
@ФранкПорш LOL! You must be Russian or Russian Ukranian as all the Russian friends I have are Engineers. I know I offended you either way with that statement. Sorry. I am American and we just throw stuff together and hope for the best. Then get all happy when it works. I never strive for more compression anymore because shaving the head throws off the cam timing as the chain is too long. I just check that the Valves hold liquid for my leak check. I am not a fan of high compression as I want to be able to burn any gas and ride in the city with bike being super hot. I have read these bikes have 10:1 stock, but not sure. My bike runs fine on cheap 87 octane at sea level and 10000rpm so I doubt it has anything over that. I never tried to do the calculations. Where do you live?
@@GhettoWrenchда ни чем вы меня не обидели,что за глупости ,я просто увидел что вы делаете мотор мощнее вот и делаете замеры скорости вот и сделал выводы для себя что вы хотите максимум выжать из этого мотора вот и все!!.. PS. Ich wohne in Deutschland, Saarland, nicht so weit von Air Base Ramstein 😊)ja Sie sind Recht,ich habe geboren in Russland,aber meine Nationalität Deutsch !!!
banger of a video! i have a question if you dont mind, my qmb 139 is running loud as heck, i just had it rebuilt and its making alot of ticking and or clicking and seems to be running kinda weird, im 99% sure its my valves but what do you think
Prob the Valves like you suspect. May want to give the CVT a good check out for loose stuff also. Mechanics have to rush or they don't make any money. They make a lot of mistakes. Do your own work and it will always be done better cause you can spend 2 days on something a shop would only allow an hour. Checking your valves is easy.
None. CVT transmission so can't really over do it. Airplanes, chainsaws, race engines go right from the bench to pinned. I stopped doing a "break in" after watching the pros break in bikes under a load on dyno and always made more power. But that's a whole debate all over google. LOL
Ted, take the extra 5 mins and take the engine bolt out and take the engine out of the bike, way easier to put the engine on the table then mess with it on the floor
I agree. I only did it that way cause everyone has an on the bench video and I know a lot of guys do this in the bike. But right.... I'm too damn old to be laying on the floor like that.
My piston says IN on it . I just put on a pwk . I got spark . I got compression. Im using gas in a bottle that's sitting higher then the carb. The carb intake boot is bigger then the head inlet. This carb I'm told is for then bbk head. The manuel choke on it doesn't stay up almost like it's for a cable. Idk. Bike hasn't run in weeks an I can't get it to. Strugglefest '24
I've done 3 or 4 went the same shit . Broke top ring. Sir clip went thru cylinder an scored it on a 200$ 51mm complete kit top to bottom. Now I've got the top half of 51mm kit . Rockers cam an head on a 47mm piston an cylinder that came together. A rolling wrench pwk carb uni filter an the boot is like 24 25 mm an the head that's for a 80cc or whatever the intake hole is 50cc size.
@zero_gear I had one for a while but sold it. Always wanted one until I had one. LOL. I think mine was the same you had. I never got confidence to really push it through it turns or wheelie it like I had with jap sportbikes. I know other guys ride em like crazy. Maybe I'm just getting old.
@@GhettoWrench I took mine to the dragon and that gave me a lot more confidence in how the bike can handle. I love mine it’s my dream bike. Just wish it was running right now.
on stock crank ? you're couragous man ! stock crank on 139qmb are made of paper lol. people used to put kymco crank. still bad but 5 time better. but i imagine you're getting the famous naraku hd crank soon ?
If there anything like Naraku belts they will break in 100 miles. LOL. I have another one of these on a stock crank and regularly sees 10k. No issues yet.
@@GhettoWrench naraku belt are the best belt i had yet, beside bando. thats because naraku belt are bando belt. other were all snapping. be it cheap noname, gate, malossi.... maybe you got bad one or fake ?
@Broken_AK47 I may have Def had a fake then. Went thru 2. Lasted about 100 miles each and shredded and broke. Figured I had a CVT issue. Put the worn out Gates back on and never failed. So bought a new gates and they wear thin eventually but don't break. Where do you get your Naraku belt? Cause they are the only one that make the actual correct size. I got mine off ebay.
@@GhettoWrench Then it was a knockoff. You'll know a real Naraku and Bando belt because you CAN'T get them for cheap... Because we're the importer for both brands for the USA so we determine the prices. If you see either for what seems like a substantially more affordable price than you see on the PFS website, you now know why.
@ManuelGutierrez-be1ci agree 100%. But some people would rather do all that and keep the 50cc to not do the motorcycle endorsement class. And some states require insurance and tags above 50cc and none with a 50cc.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I paid someone to do my bbk. Then I found out about all these bbk not really being true upgrades. Met a guy at church whose son had a 50cc that he planned to upgrade. He bought the bbk and then his son sold the scooter! He just gave me the kit so I have now torn the whole scooter apart and have been trying to piece it back together over the last two years (my first attempt It started up all fine and then died on me after 5 mins of riding it. Bought a compression tester and ended up with not enough compression). My gasket set just came in the mail, this is the FIRST in depth video that I’ve come across with full in depth information. Now I’m second guessing my ring placement on the piston head and I’m glad I didn’t get further than getting the piston in the cylinder. God bless you for taking the time to make such an in depth video!
@ryanpage1665 thanks so much. There is definitely some trial error when first doing this stuff.
@@GhettoWrenchspent all day putting it back together. Unfortunately I couldn’t get it to start. It would run for less than a second when I hit it with some ether but wouldn’t stay running. I’m gonna compression test it cuz there is no way it’s a timing issue (I think that’s what I had wrong last time). This time I had my cam lined up exactly like yours but my cam has two small holes and no big one like your cam did. I also have 1 bolt that won’t tighten on the valve cover. My assumption is that’s no bueno…
@ryanpage1665 fuel delivery. The biggest problem on these. If it fires on ether and then dies then it works. It just needs fuel. Sometimes I have to drain the float with the pump on to let out the air. You have an electric pump?
@@GhettoWrench no electric pump. I primed the lines before trying to start it tho so it’s not sucking air and my battery juice. I did do a compression test and got 35 psi…from what I’ve read I should be between 90 and 130. I just borrowed a micrometer to measure the piston diameter to get a new head gasket because I reused the same one during my first attempt, still don’t know what to do about the valve cover not bolt that won’t tighten problem other then getting a new cylinder head because I think I over tightened the cover to the head my first attempt which is why it won’t tighten now even with a different bolt. I will put a bigger idle and main in the carb just to see if that’s it before I tear the engine all down again, much quicker and easier.
Where do you get your parts from? I don’t have a nice scooter like yours, I bought a used Tao Tao ATM 50A1 to save money during the summer driving it and I’m wishing I bought a more name brand one instead but it seems that they all use the same 139 QMB 50cc engine so I’m not fully convinced it matters (as long as it’s running…).
@ryanpage1665 ya these 139qmb are all the same. You stripped the little 6mm (takes 8mm socket) that holds the valve cover in? No biggie on that, you may see some oil leak but need to get it running first. 1 usually get 180 to 210 psi on compression. Below 120 will not usually run too good. A cam like an A9 cam can give you poor compression during cranking at low RPM but still not below 120 ish. Maybe you blew that head gasket. It should be bone dry when you install it. Oil will make it blow. Did you use a Torque wrench? Perhaps it is not tight enough.
Valve lash is about 3 business cards stacked on top of each other for "field" adjustments.
I'm glad you're building 139qmb's and taking the time. The Naraku and Ssp-g kits all day! Me and some of my buddies over at S.A. mostly official are into building these lil engines up to show what they can do. This is my fourth build
My 139qmb- #1
Uni filter
20mm round slide carb
20mm pit bike intake manifold
Ssp-g 52mm 23.5/20.1 head
Ssp-g titanium valve retainers
Ncy cam
Ssp-g 52mm flat top piston and jug
Taida 44mm stroker crankshaft - 22 tooth sprocket
Ncy ignition
Ssp-g full exhaust system
All emissions, vacuum lines and fuel pump have been deleted - gravity feed fuel line setup
Ssp-g 89mm variator - longer ramps!
Ssp-g drive face
Gates power link belt
Ncy clutch bell
Ncy clutch
Ncy secondary sheve
1,000 rpm clutch springs
Stock contra
Ncy contra ball bearing kit
Ncy 18/46 secondary gears - 2.55
139qmb #2
Foam filter
20mm round slide carb
Gy6 125cc 22mm intake manifold vs150cc 24mm
Ssp-g 23/20 head pocket port, open exhaust to 18.8, mild valve deshroud and milled.
Scooterarmy's S.A88 52mm dome top piston
Stock crank
Amazon exhaust
No emissions b.s.
92mm TWH variator
Ssp-g drive face
Stock modded clutch and bell
1,000 rpm clutch and contra springs
17/49 secondary gears - 2.88
Cool. So my best results on variater so far have been a 95mm NCY dio variator I modified. I have a 89mm NCY one also. I was hoping to make this polini 95 work, but so far does not seem that great. Do yall use the 89mm then?
Mine? 81cc big headed bitch wit high lifting cam because it's stoned wit 64mm rockers from rolling wrench Denver an 72cc piston in its own hole from gy6 racing an NYC CVt with tight spring. Bando wide belt . Bando ignition coil. Adjustable cdi. I forgot who's probably a lie. Lights are hand made by me . Carb
... Pwk built by Matt from rolling wrench hopefully.
I didn't even know about the TWH 92mm variator. That sounds perfect.
@@GhettoWrenchwhat kind of modification did you put in it?
@@dkewlguy the Naraku 100.52 kit. 90cc.
I literally just installed my big bore kit and definitely would’ve benefited from watching this video first lol.
Typical. Hopefully you didn't hit too many glitches.
No, just one. But I figured it out and fixed it. It was with the tensioner. Thank you for showing how that works.
I think at 41 I'ma have to go back to school. Not to learn reading an writing but small engine mechanics.
Torgue spec? Count thread an feel it or break the head because of shit parts unless your torque wrench American made by a fucking American...
Ayeeee yo
I watched this so many times before i did it myself lol
First start took a awhile had me worried af but it was battery🤷🏻
Working on it in this florida heat but it was worth it for my "100" cc
Godbless you!
@@Valentine98766 awesome! Thanks a bunch. I know that florida heat. Crazy.
The best video hands down thank you so much for sharing
@mikeallen8559 thanks so much
Love ur videos man u do explain things to a t. And that I like . And straight to the point too don't do this or do that . Tell it like it is keep up the good work man . A long time sub here until the next one
@@Donbscooters757 thanks so much!
Very informative video.
I'll be watching it again as a guide.
Thanks.
:)
great video! so much good information, i dont even own one of these but was still worth the watch
Thank you. This is a great video. ❤
Thanks
Yeah thats by the book. Its a fairly simple engine to work on as its a clone of a ancient honda engine. The timing chain and cam 3 hole position also pretty much applies to any honda monkey clone chinese dirtbike engine. The positioning is a little diffrent but by principle.
Awesome, wish i had this video when I first got into this. Great info, not annoying. I'd love labeled chapters on something this long though.
Me too! LOL. That's why I made it. I'm not smart enough yet to do chapters. Need to watch a video on it. 😆
@@GhettoWrenchSame, I'm just now figuring out how to find replies to comments on here.
I just got the high pressure fuel plumbed in on mine with an intake referenced regulator and I'm about to test ride it using a PZ20 carb I put on last week. The process of figuring out what the hell I'm doing with the high pressure fuel loop was confusing and convoluted because I had to dig through a lot of different info, and in the end trial and error taught me things I would probably have had to do a lot more reading/watching to figure out.
It's overkill, but I was able to reach the 1.5psi I was aiming for down from 125psi the pump rockets out.
@@Pipeargill 😆
excellent tutorial
@@hershelshochter4703 thanks
Excellent video! Thank you! I have a stock 150cc. Big Bore is next. Out of the crate, I got just about 52mph. I did a Nibbi carb upgrade with an exhaust upgrade. A little bit of carb tuning, I'm at 58 to 59 mph. No CV tuning. Running bone stock. Hoping that with a big bore kit, and some CV tuning, I'll get 65 mph our of it. Thanks again for another great video!
Your welcome. I love the 171 kit on my black one. When you get to 68mph stop. Don't do the rear end gear up mod. The 70mph speed is just bragging rights. The bike was funner and better before the gears. Def do the 115mm variator and 842 belt AFTER the big bore kit. It is good everywhere.
@@GhettoWrenchthanks for the 70mph tip! I live near a a pretty major road hers in Florida, and I just didn't want to get run over doing the 55mph speed limit. LOL! It's always good to have some spare speed in the reserve. Thanks for the reply, looking forward to your next one!
@@jhammer929 Highway 27? you may need 70! LOL
@@GhettoWrench Not only 27/441, on 44 you can get run over too! LOL!
Hey man! You know this area!! Do you have a DM?
Glixal strong over here rn lol
Thank you!!! For this tutorial thank you thank you
Brilliant vid 👍
I heard about gy6s for years, the robust, standardized true engine for scooters and small bikes, but I didn't know it was a swing arm. I want to mount it on a minibike.
Good way to get a swingarm on the mini I guess. Just make the mount like an axle or a swingarm pivot and run a shock from the frame to the rear case. Shoukd be doable. DO a 150 tho. Cheap on ebay and come with all the stuff like CDI and coil.
@@GhettoWrench Yeah, I would be happy with a hardtail, but free rear suspension, won't complain. I want this 50cc 2 stroke, I like 2 strokes, and I don't plan on highway use. And I could potentially weld some faux bicycle pedals on it and claim it as a motorized bike. It would be safer if they were both fixed forward anyway, I plan on having full signals on it.
@username-mk8gf the roughouse buddy uses a 2 strike 50cc I think. I would love to get a 2 stroke also
I have a question...I have looked all over the internet for about an hour now and can't seem to find a coherent answer,maybe you can help me..I am fixing to install a 50mm bbk made by Glixal..the kit came with a new oil pump,and timing chain..Do I need to replace both the oil pump and chain or will the factory chain and pump be fine to use..I am asking just to be sure..If I don't need to change them i'd rather not..thanks for the help in advance...Oh I forgot to mention I am upgrading a 49cc Linhai Scooter...
@spidervenom3341 I can not imagine why you would need to replace though. Not even sure why the kit came with those. Putting that cam chain is a lot of work. LOL. You should be good to just toss those parts in a drawer and forget about them
@@GhettoWrench Yeah..That's what I thought...Thank you for the response..My wife and really enjoy your videos the way you break them down into simplistic terms is a total plus..I followed your bbk installment video to the mark..Still have a little work left to do before I can start her up,but can't wait..Thanks again for the response and the videos...
@GhettoWrench is there anyway I can direct message you or only here on youtube
@@GhettoWrench is there a way I can direct message you like an email or messenger..I need to chat with someone with working knowledge on my scooter...
@spidervenom3341 on Facebook I am Ted Edgar and it is a picture of me with a helmet and red mountain bike.
Excellent thank you
So what is all the lubrication I need? I have Lucas oil assembly lube and the scooter oil and gear oil. Where do I put what? I have my head and cylinder right in front of me and I’ve put the piston back on. To put the boss back in the piston I used assembly line. And only on the boss.
@@dkewlguy that's fine. The rings should be good and lubed up when you slide the piston in. The cam should be lubed up also.
Amazing video! I just almost finished putting a Glixal 72cc bbk on my maddog thanks to your video! I just need to pick up a torque wrench and set my valves and I'll be good.
The kit came with 2 red little rubber things I have no clue what they are for but it all went great so far.
Do you have to put back the plastic coverings over the engine? Everything is easier to access with the plastics off so I was wondering if it would mess anything up if I left it off? I would just put the one over the fan and variator.
I'm waiting for the variator removal tool to arrive so I can swap that one out with a Glixal 89mm variator. Not sure if this will make a change. I bought it before I watched your variator video and saw the stock maddog is 86mm. Oh well.
@jayb5623 I think those red things are valve guides. Prob don't need Them. The NCY performance variator is also 89mm. I'm going to try that. I think the 95mm is still too big. Did you see this video on the plastic covers? They are prob most important over the cylinder.
ruclips.net/video/BSCja6Pt8PU/видео.htmlsi=5oM8Gh19CYUJa1zi
Thank you. I didn't see the other video till now. After I made the post I was on the scooter forums and saw the plastics are a major necessity for these bikes. Learned something new😊
My variator removal tool won't be here Wednesday but I'm excited to swap that out. I'm getting a torque wrench after work today to finish the bbk. Did you have to end up changing your main jet after your install?
I have the PE19mm Nibbi carb so I might have to increase the main jet size when I finish the bbk. When I put that Nibbi on it worked best for me to leave the 2 jets the same as they came but I moved the needle hight to 5 and dialed it in.
And all the plastic on your motor is to let it breath and get air so it doesn't over heat not that you would be able to tell cause it's an air cooled motor@@jayb5623
Great video man! Thanks! Can I ask you from which model you took front end cover? Is this from a ruckus?
@VmtSquad these are called Maddogs. They are chinese knockoffs of a already stretched Ruckus. Check out this video:
ruclips.net/video/kYyhQwBhnu4/видео.htmlsi=6uCxCwYXK--dMvv2
@@GhettoWrench thanks brother, just picked up a ruckus plastic cover of masketplace for cheap. Will try to fit it the best I can on my chineese scoot Im building. Your videos help so much thanks!
You can rent torche wrench also
Js get from autostores
Great point
I will be interested to see your thoughts on the Naraku parts. I have had nothing but bad luck with their stuff. Probably just picking the crappier stuff they make, but who knows.
100% Agree. And before I hated the brand I had used this 100.52 kit and had great luck with it. Kinda hoping it melts so I can try the Taida 88cc kit for comparison.
Put 10k miles on a naraku 72cc v2. Cant say thats bad going
What kind of corrosion compound do you use?
@dkewlguy that gray stuff for spark plugs from napa. I think it is champion spark plug brand.
Привет из Германии, скажите пожалуйста какая степень сжатия на Naraku 12:1 или больше? И сколько примерно развивает мотор на этой поршневой мощности, kW, или PS?
@ФранкПорш I would not know those things and I do not think the manufacturer's specifications state them either.
@GhettoWrench конечно нет таких значениях у продавца,я думал вы сами измеряли степень сжатия, то есть проливали камеру сгорания на собранном двигателе,есть формула расчета степени сжатия например камера сгорания у вас 8ссm .объем двигателя 90ccm ,по формуле нужно сделать так 90+8:8=12.25степень сжатия получается, степень сжатия очень влияет на мощность двигателя и на отзывчивость, естественно чем больше степень сжатия те более высокооктановый бензин нужен, например от 12,5 уже нужен бензин с98 октановым числом ,если меньше есть риск при нагреве будет детонация,то есть бензин будет воспламеняться не от искры свечи зажигания а от давления в цилиндре то есть как на дизельном моторе, поэтому и нужен высокооктановый бензин,
Я просто спросил у вас потому что видел то что вы головку цилиндра не фрезеровали (не садили ниже относительно к поршню,то есть не уменьшали камеру сгорания) вот и подумал что там уже достаточная степень сжатия уже есть,если есть хотя бы 13-13,5это очень хорошо
P.s. Не путайте компрессию и степень сжатия двигателя это абсолютно разные значения,если у вас компрессия будет 13 а степень сжатия например 8.5 мотор просто не поедет как положено!!!
@GhettoWrench ещё меня удивило то что вы не проверили герметичность клапанов и наличие фасок на сёдлах по хорошему их нужно прирезать зенкерами ,должно быть три фаски клапана 45°-30°-60° градусов соответственно,и впускной канал должен быть хотя бы 24 мм на током впускном клапане,то есть в головке нужно расширить впускной канал полностью для более лучшего прохождения воздушно топливной смеси
@ФранкПорш LOL! You must be Russian or Russian Ukranian as all the Russian friends I have are Engineers. I know I offended you either way with that statement. Sorry. I am American and we just throw stuff together and hope for the best. Then get all happy when it works. I never strive for more compression anymore because shaving the head throws off the cam timing as the chain is too long. I just check that the Valves hold liquid for my leak check. I am not a fan of high compression as I want to be able to burn any gas and ride in the city with bike being super hot. I have read these bikes have 10:1 stock, but not sure. My bike runs fine on cheap 87 octane at sea level and 10000rpm so I doubt it has anything over that. I never tried to do the calculations. Where do you live?
@@GhettoWrenchда ни чем вы меня не обидели,что за глупости ,я просто увидел что вы делаете мотор мощнее вот и делаете замеры скорости вот и сделал выводы для себя что вы хотите максимум выжать из этого мотора вот и все!!..
PS. Ich wohne in Deutschland, Saarland, nicht so weit von Air Base Ramstein 😊)ja Sie sind Recht,ich habe geboren in Russland,aber meine Nationalität Deutsch !!!
banger of a video! i have a question if you dont mind, my qmb 139 is running loud as heck, i just had it rebuilt and its making alot of ticking and or clicking and seems to be running kinda weird, im 99% sure its my valves but what do you think
Prob the Valves like you suspect. May want to give the CVT a good check out for loose stuff also. Mechanics have to rush or they don't make any money. They make a lot of mistakes. Do your own work and it will always be done better cause you can spend 2 days on something a shop would only allow an hour. Checking your valves is easy.
@@GhettoWrench sweet man, thanks for the advice! I will definitely start working on it myself from now on tho haha
What jets are you running with this kit now?
@xaviero3679 I think I settled on a 110 main and 35 idle in that Nibbi. Then on the 21mm PWK a 100 main and 32 main.
How many miles do you break your engine in for?
None. CVT transmission so can't really over do it. Airplanes, chainsaws, race engines go right from the bench to pinned. I stopped doing a "break in" after watching the pros break in bikes under a load on dyno and always made more power. But that's a whole debate all over google. LOL
Ted, take the extra 5 mins and take the engine bolt out and take the engine out of the bike, way easier to put the engine on the table then mess with it on the floor
I agree. I only did it that way cause everyone has an on the bench video and I know a lot of guys do this in the bike. But right.... I'm too damn old to be laying on the floor like that.
True. I learned the hard way.
If you don't change the crank , the motor will break quikly.
You have to put a bigger crank.
@user-li3mk6wu9f I have heard that from others as well. I look forward to it. An excuse for a video. LOL. Thanks for the info tho.
Did u say arrow goes to exhaust?
Yes. Points toward exhaust.
My piston says IN on it . I just put on a pwk . I got spark . I got compression. Im using gas in a bottle that's sitting higher then the carb. The carb intake boot is bigger then the head inlet. This carb I'm told is for then bbk head. The manuel choke on it doesn't stay up almost like it's for a cable. Idk. Bike hasn't run in weeks an I can't get it to. Strugglefest '24
If got spark does that tell me my firing an flywheel an CDI an TDC are correct? I've got the adjustable cdi but hell could be horseshit.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I bit off more then I can chew
@seanmayo206 if it has IN on it the the IN goes toward the intake
On the gen v
U gotta basically split the frame in half
I did big bore on my Gen 5 in the bike.
I've done 3 or 4 went the same shit
. Broke top ring. Sir clip went thru cylinder an scored it on a 200$ 51mm complete kit top to bottom. Now I've got the top half of 51mm kit . Rockers cam an head on a 47mm piston an cylinder that came together. A rolling wrench pwk carb uni filter an the boot is like 24 25 mm an the head that's for a 80cc or whatever the intake hole is 50cc size.
Looking on your eBay. Do you have a buell? I have a 07 xb9sx.
@zero_gear I had one for a while but sold it. Always wanted one until I had one. LOL. I think mine was the same you had. I never got confidence to really push it through it turns or wheelie it like I had with jap sportbikes. I know other guys ride em like crazy. Maybe I'm just getting old.
@@GhettoWrench I took mine to the dragon and that gave me a lot more confidence in how the bike can handle. I love mine it’s my dream bike. Just wish it was running right now.
@@zero_gear OMG... I was working and could not go for the last small bore meet. I have been there, but never on any scooter.
Dose anyone have experience with the Chinese kits and performance heads
I've watched so many of these I can do it with my eyes closed lol just haven't put it to motion
@Donbscooters757 LOL! Well get to it man. 😁
on stock crank ? you're couragous man ! stock crank on 139qmb are made of paper lol. people used to put kymco crank. still bad but 5 time better.
but i imagine you're getting the famous naraku hd crank soon ?
If there anything like Naraku belts they will break in 100 miles. LOL. I have another one of these on a stock crank and regularly sees 10k. No issues yet.
@@GhettoWrench naraku belt are the best belt i had yet, beside bando. thats because naraku belt are bando belt. other were all snapping. be it cheap noname, gate, malossi.... maybe you got bad one or fake ?
@Broken_AK47 I may have Def had a fake then. Went thru 2. Lasted about 100 miles each and shredded and broke. Figured I had a CVT issue. Put the worn out Gates back on and never failed. So bought a new gates and they wear thin eventually but don't break. Where do you get your Naraku belt? Cause they are the only one that make the actual correct size. I got mine off ebay.
@@GhettoWrench Then it was a knockoff. You'll know a real Naraku and Bando belt because you CAN'T get them for cheap... Because we're the importer for both brands for the USA so we determine the prices. If you see either for what seems like a substantially more affordable price than you see on the PFS website, you now know why.
@Partsforscooters1 these were def knockoffs then cause they were super cheap. I got them on ebay.
I would rather just do a motor swap instead of a bbk. I have a 150cc gy6 that I will put into my 50cc maddog scooter.
@ManuelGutierrez-be1ci agree 100%. But some people would rather do all that and keep the 50cc to not do the motorcycle endorsement class. And some states require insurance and tags above 50cc and none with a 50cc.
You are me but maybe a little older an more mechanical knowledge
Thank you so much