Thank you my mom I'm totally agree with you with using the smaller chamber cylinder head and all these other guys that are advertising won't recommend it because they don't know all the hot rod tricks like we used to do with small block Chevrolets changing cylinder heads keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis Maryland
FABULOUS MY FRIEND!! Nobody else even has a video like this. You can't buy a ported head. Nobody wants to do the work. You would think they would come up with a reasonable quality offering but no takers. Maybe it is just for the afficionado. You did a great job! One of the problems with this process is the removal of metal that could weaken the head. Maybe that is what we are looking at here. The Japanese could mass produce these. Who could afford a German one?
Use a matched size impact socket to push down your valve springs. It has less chance of slipping and damaging the head than a spanner and also contains your half shells so they can't be lost, they also work for better for reinstallation than a valve spring compressor by putting your spring retainer and half shells on the valve stem and just pushing down the socket
@JMR BUILDS no problem. It may take you a few tries on the first go when reinstalling valves to get the valve retaining shells to seat but you'll get the hang of it and by the end of one 4 cyl head you'll prolly have it. It's literally one push down to pop off and one push down to pop back in. Do this on a wooden surface and prolly the softer the wood the better for the metal
Im usually go 80% intake port cross sectional area to Valve d ratio, it has good torque from 6000 - 12000rpm, and you just go over 120% which is just to much, you need test you head port in flowbench
I don't know if anyone else has told you but you ruined the floor of that intake port. Now the air flow is going to slow down rather than speed up and pull more air into the cylinder. It's alright to remove excessive material from the port ceiling but not from the port floor. It effects the air velocity into the cylinder. Throw it away and try again.
Can u pls explain what that part of the port that he sanded down ? Is it ok to bring in down a little bit ? My heads diff , it’s a evo head from ec carburetor. My Guess that it’s bad is because there no squeeze to create suction to pull more are and flow ? Tell me if I’m wrong. Ty !!
If you color the entire gasket surface with Black magic marker and then use a seal pick to scribe a thinner, more accurate port opening line to follow, tracing the inside diameter of the gasket, as a template.
hello Steve from Annapolis Maryland I'm doing the same thing Portland and polishing and putting the cylinder head on there to Brenda compression up just do a compression check make sure it's not over 200 lb
So you done all this work? Did you put it on the flow bench to make sure you took material out from the correct spots to make sure the head was still working correctly?
Hey thanks a lot for watching , yeah man I'm dying to finally put everything together but I'm still waiting for valves , I'm kinda nervous but I think everything will work out well !
@@Seniornuggets thanks man ! Hopefully all the parts that I need to put the engine together should arrive this week. I live in Savannah ,Georgia . But I have been to Chicago twice. It's a really nice city , I'm really looking forward to visiting again soon ! But I haven't ride anywhere near Chicago , maybe I can take my bike next time when I'm visiting!
Like he said it goes a long way if you check out some of the car porting vids they as well remove some of the guide. You don't have to for a mild port job but for all out racing you want all you can get but you need to know the formula to make it work because you can over port hope all works out for you. ✌️
I'm going to build a 4 Valve EFI when they are available & since I have to split the case for a longer timing chain, I'm going to upgrade the case . Your bike is awesome 👌 very nice 🔥🔥 Salute 👍😎
That sounds like a fun project! I was thinking about doing my bike fuel injection too but the kit to do it is kind of expensive so I'll just stick with the carb instead, Thank you so much for watching my video!
Great work sir I subscribed ! I'm going to port my cylinder head on my 150 tao tao soon and this is what I was looking for, tho I don't think I'll be upgrading the valves or springs mainly because I'm not going to push the rpms past 7500 to often if any.
Thank you so much for subscribing , I really appreciate you!, I know in my video I don't really go into every single detail when porting the cylinder head but if you have any questions or concerns, please just let me know because I will be more than happy to help you!
For the people out there that don’t want to use a smaller head but want more compression…. Buy a thinner head gasket orrrrr take material off the bottom of the head using a flat surface and sand paper, or use a head stone. Mark the bottom with a sharpie and slide the head back and forth across sand paper on a flat surface until no sharpie is left. Repeat that until desired compression ratio. The only issues I see with this method is removing too much material and the timing chain not being tight enough… if you’re careful on how much you remove, you’ll be okay.👍🏻
Sand in a figure 8 pattern, back and forth will leave low spots on the leading and trailing edge and leave your side high and the sand paper should be on a very level surface, mirror glass is good. When it comes to how much needs to be removed, not much is heaps, 1mm is heaps for an engine that is already tiny. All of this kind of work I advice the motto less is best, especially with porting or polishing, a simple clean up of rough edges will vastly improve flow without getting into risky territory, plenty of ppl have ruined brand new heads, also the tensioner will take up any slack in the timing chain, its how close do you want valves to get to piston
@@KXSWORKS I personally haven't but the piston liner is cast iron and will be a lot harder to shave and may take of more aluminum off the block and leave the liner higher then the aluminum block, shouldn't be that much of an issue as you should be using fine grade paper
Thanks for watching! You are right, I forgot to mention that sorry, I already have some titanium valves and titanium valve springs , supposedly are rated for 12,000 rpm also I got the forged piston 🙂
Hello, your video is very good, thanks for sharing it, I have a gy6 with a high-flow filter and a little richer fuel, what size do you recommend for my valves? My idea was .004 intake and .006 exhaust. thank you
Hey my friend u done a great job on that head u do the same thang I always do I use my same head when I put on a big bore kit to get more comparison keep up the good work where did u order your valves from if u don't mine telling me
Thanks alot! I always buy my parts from a store on ebay ,they come from Puerto Rico , this is the link for the high performance valves! www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-GY6-150cc-Racing-Upgrade-Valve-Kit-Seals-Power-Springs-Hi-Output-A-/323748551241?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
And this are the retainers for the valve spring www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-150cc-High-Performance-Titanium-Valve-Spring-Retainers-Set-of-2-/172611024966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I'm doing the exact same thing and are you using stainless steel valves or titanium valves either or with the high lift camshaft like to meet you one day
Did you also remove part of the metal that the valve slides into? There's like a different metal inside the aluminum hump you removed...did you remove some of that other metal as well? It looks like you did because it's not sticking out.
You’re not supposed to lol. I’ve done a lot of porting jobs on gx390 and predator 212cc motors and I’ve removed them per customer request and it never lasts that long.
I think everything depends on what you want to get out of your scooter, for example, if you are drag racing against other scooters I think the reveno clutch will give you a little bit more advantage over the traditional clutch, but if you are just someone like me that just like to take the scooter around town and have a good time I think buying a reveno clutch is a little bit out of my price range to spend on a clutch because the difference is just going to be very Sligh against a regular clutch , I would just rather keep my original clutch or buy a high performance clutch and invest the rest of the money in something like a bigger crankshaft, oil cooler, or whatever is really help my scooter run faster , but If money is not an issue I would definitely buy it for myself too ! But that is just my 2 cents
Sorry for the late reply and thank you so much for watching the video , the link below is for the gasket I used for my scooter 1PZ MG2-SE3 Premium Exhaust Gasket www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3FZDJZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YSZW30XTQZ5R1F0G35R2
No offense sir but keeping the valves in did nothing to protect the seats if your not being super careful and jamming the burr near the seat when removing the casting and the valve guide support. Btw lower the dremel speed when polishing.
Thanks alot for watching the video! I only polished the exhaust port but I left the intake port rough because that will prevent the gasoline to condensate and atomise better whenever the gasoline goes through the intake port , in the video the intake looks like is polish but is not I just used the carbide bit on it and I left it like it is But yeah you are right about your statement!
You are right it was very good until he polished the deck surface. Bad mistake. First it is to easy to make it uneven with something round instead of a flat sanding surface. And 2. You never want your gasket surface polished slick. Compression could allow casket shift. You should actually wipe the deck with 80 grit paper on a flat sanding block. I’m glad to see people getting into it but research.
@@billyclevenger2632 thank you so much for the info brother, I haven't installed the cylinder head yet but before I do it I'll make sure to sand the deck surface to avoid any compression leaks !
Yes and you can actually dimple the intake side like the surface of a golf ball but this won't help if your injecting straight in to the cylinder double check. Oh and I wouldn't grind anything on the cylinder side your going to lower the compreshion and bhp.
Hello sir, I did the porting and polishing on my cylinder head and I have the Tiada big bore 171 kit as well. I am wondering where I can get titanium valves for the head? Thank you for the video. Can you send me a link to the titanium valves?
@@cemtkeenan2750 can you tell me what size valves I need to order if I'm porting a stock 150 head? I have the Tiada bbkit and A9 cam and I want to di this to my stock head. I just don't know what valves to order. Thanks so much bmy friend!
Plz help, I recent ported and polished the head on my 07 Polaris outlaw 525 IRS and now I’m getting a red hot head exhaust after only about 5 min of idle. It’s an exhaust kit and slip on from Big gun. I’ve tried putting bigger jets in it, I went up from a 160 to a 170 and tried messing with the pilot screw and it helped a bit but the problem persists. Should I go even bigger on the jet?
Get a new head. And make sure your exhaust and exhaust port are free from obstructions. Don't do this porting nonsense. It adds literally no performance benefit. If anything it's a detriment
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic if you upgraded your carb to a larger one then yes it does. its likely to be larger than the intake port on the head and since its a carb the fuel and air mixture can get pretty wonky.
@JMR BUILDS mind me asking what kind or brand tool you using. new to porting beginner actually I’m porting a head on the side just to practice for my 52 mm head to put on my scooter
I have done something different on a stock 139QMB head. That was its called "hognose" both intake and exhaust guides in the ports. To "hognose" just remove material to either side of the guide and leave the guide intact. Much safer for a dependable daily scoot I thought.
Daily or racing it will ruin your valves, all that material helpt cooling the valve stem. For racing purpose it's even worse tbh since you create higher temps. Definitly run a oil cooler routed to the head. Its possible to have that kind of a port and it being reliable but not with the materials used in these mini4strokes heads
@@jzsquad6866 👌 you could remove a little bit making it smoother. Main rule is to take your time, a little mistake will happen but you'll be able to clean it up np
@@A_Stereotypical_Hereticthe scooter gained like 8 miles more on the top end and is a little bit more quick reaching the top speed but for a scooter that's a big improvement lol Of course nothing compares to a 2 stroke or a bigger engine like a 600cc inline
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic i ported mine like this some years ago and got better aceleration and top speed. Of course this head won't last like a stock one but if You wanna gain something You need sacrifice something and take some calculated risks
Thank you my mom I'm totally agree with you with using the smaller chamber cylinder head and all these other guys that are advertising won't recommend it because they don't know all the hot rod tricks like we used to do with small block Chevrolets changing cylinder heads keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis Maryland
FABULOUS MY FRIEND!! Nobody else even has a video like this. You can't buy a ported head. Nobody wants to do the work. You would think they would come up with a reasonable quality offering but no takers. Maybe it is just for the afficionado. You did a great job! One of the problems with this process is the removal of metal that could weaken the head. Maybe that is what we are looking at here. The Japanese could mass produce these. Who could afford a German one?
Did the valve guide delete work out ok? I'm worried about losing all that support on the stem.
Congratulations brother and god bless you 🕊️
Use a matched size impact socket to push down your valve springs. It has less chance of slipping and damaging the head than a spanner and also contains your half shells so they can't be lost, they also work for better for reinstallation than a valve spring compressor by putting your spring retainer and half shells on the valve stem and just pushing down the socket
Thanks a lot for sharing this tip , I definitely will do it next time
@JMR BUILDS no problem. It may take you a few tries on the first go when reinstalling valves to get the valve retaining shells to seat but you'll get the hang of it and by the end of one 4 cyl head you'll prolly have it. It's literally one push down to pop off and one push down to pop back in. Do this on a wooden surface and prolly the softer the wood the better for the metal
Thanks for the awesome video. Looking forward to the rest of the build and future videos.
Thank you so much for the support, I really appreciate it 😊
wats gebeurt menne man, u goood, keep buiildings gooings, or wat not
Im usually go 80% intake port cross sectional area to Valve d ratio, it has good torque from 6000 - 12000rpm, and you just go over 120% which is just to much, you need test you head port in flowbench
I don't know if anyone else has told you but you ruined the floor of that intake port. Now the air flow is going to slow down rather than speed up and pull more air into the cylinder. It's alright to remove excessive material from the port ceiling but not from the port floor. It effects the air velocity into the cylinder. Throw it away and try again.
Thank you so much for the feedback I really appreciate it!
Can u pls explain what that part of the port that he sanded down ? Is it ok to bring in down a little bit ? My heads diff , it’s a evo head from ec carburetor. My
Guess that it’s bad is because there no squeeze to create suction to pull more are and flow ? Tell me if I’m wrong. Ty !!
If you color the entire gasket surface with Black magic marker and then use a seal pick to scribe a thinner, more accurate port opening line to follow, tracing the inside diameter of the gasket, as a template.
Bro the port and polish was great I learned a lot from the video
hello Steve from Annapolis Maryland I'm doing the same thing Portland and polishing and putting the cylinder head on there to Brenda compression up just do a compression check make sure it's not over 200 lb
Top job, Respect🏆
So you done all this work? Did you put it on the flow bench to make sure you took material out from the correct spots to make sure the head was still working correctly?
Very cool, cant wait to see this head on the build!
Hey thanks a lot for watching , yeah man I'm dying to finally put everything together but I'm still waiting for valves , I'm kinda nervous but I think everything will work out well !
@@jmrbuilds I have faith brother! thats going to be a nice engine with good up top and down low power. Do you ride anywhere near Chicago IL?
@@Seniornuggets thanks man ! Hopefully all the parts that I need to put the engine together should arrive this week.
I live in Savannah ,Georgia . But I have been to Chicago twice. It's a really nice city , I'm really looking forward to visiting again soon ! But I haven't ride anywhere near Chicago , maybe I can take my bike next time when I'm visiting!
Great video great content looks pretty good
How is the port job now after 9 months. I’m worried abt grinding the valve guide support in each port.
Like he said it goes a long way if you check out some of the car porting vids they as well remove some of the guide. You don't have to for a mild port job but for all out racing you want all you can get but you need to know the formula to make it work because you can over port hope all works out for you. ✌️
I'm going to build a 4 Valve EFI when they are available & since I have to split the case for a longer timing chain, I'm going to upgrade the case . Your bike is awesome 👌 very nice 🔥🔥 Salute 👍😎
That sounds like a fun project!
I was thinking about doing my bike fuel injection too but the kit to do it is kind of expensive so I'll just stick with the carb instead,
Thank you so much for watching my video!
Great work sir I subscribed ! I'm going to port my cylinder head on my 150 tao tao soon and this is what I was looking for, tho I don't think I'll be upgrading the valves or springs mainly because I'm not going to push the rpms past 7500 to often if any.
Thank you so much for subscribing , I really appreciate you!, I know in my video I don't really go into every single detail when porting the cylinder head but if you have any questions or concerns, please just let me know because I will be more than happy to help you!
@@jmrbuilds what valve springs would I purchase if I had the tao tao 125
For the people out there that don’t want to use a smaller head but want more compression…. Buy a thinner head gasket orrrrr take material off the bottom of the head using a flat surface and sand paper, or use a head stone. Mark the bottom with a sharpie and slide the head back and forth across sand paper on a flat surface until no sharpie is left. Repeat that until desired compression ratio. The only issues I see with this method is removing too much material and the timing chain not being tight enough… if you’re careful on how much you remove, you’ll be okay.👍🏻
Thanks for the tip 👍 😀
How much can be removed?
Sand in a figure 8 pattern, back and forth will leave low spots on the leading and trailing edge and leave your side high and the sand paper should be on a very level surface, mirror glass is good. When it comes to how much needs to be removed, not much is heaps, 1mm is heaps for an engine that is already tiny.
All of this kind of work I advice the motto less is best, especially with porting or polishing, a simple clean up of rough edges will vastly improve flow without getting into risky territory, plenty of ppl have ruined brand new heads, also the tensioner will take up any slack in the timing chain, its how close do you want valves to get to piston
@@coolhandluke1503 have you tried shaving the block instead of the head?
@@KXSWORKS I personally haven't but the piston liner is cast iron and will be a lot harder to shave and may take of more aluminum off the block and leave the liner higher then the aluminum block, shouldn't be that much of an issue as you should be using fine grade paper
You need to get the forge piston too especially on an RPM like that my goodness and dual valve springs with stainless steel valves
Thanks for watching! You are right, I forgot to mention that sorry, I already have some titanium valves and titanium valve springs , supposedly are rated for 12,000 rpm also I got the forged piston 🙂
Hello, your video is very good, thanks for sharing it, I have a gy6 with a high-flow filter and a little richer fuel, what size do you recommend for my valves? My idea was .004 intake and .006 exhaust. thank you
Thanks so much for the information my friend keep up the good work hope to see another video soon
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your support! I'll see you on the next video !
Great video thank you for making this man!
Thanks for watching the video and the support!
Sir you have also porting 125 cc head GY6 ingine or polish
Nice to get link to alu Intake Riser at 8:14
Hey my friend u done a great job on that head u do the same thang I always do I use my same head when I put on a big bore kit to get more comparison keep up the good work where did u order your valves from if u don't mine telling me
Thanks alot! I always buy my parts from a store on ebay ,they come from Puerto Rico , this is the link for the high performance valves! www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-GY6-150cc-Racing-Upgrade-Valve-Kit-Seals-Power-Springs-Hi-Output-A-/323748551241?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
And this are the retainers for the valve spring www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-150cc-High-Performance-Titanium-Valve-Spring-Retainers-Set-of-2-/172611024966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Did you feel a difference to the head? I know the valves are 27 intake but the port is 24mm.
Hey I want to change the stock valves in my 223cc wildcat engine with stainless steel valves. Which sizes should I get? I have 32lb springs.
Big Thanks, bro! Very cool! Hello from rus))
Thank you brother 🙏
beuty😆
I'm doing the exact same thing and are you using stainless steel valves or titanium valves either or with the high lift camshaft like to meet you one day
Very cool video is it safe to grind that intake bridge want to do something on my lifan
👍👍
hi my name is Daniel am in Zambia I also have a project which is am trying to make a 2 pistone engine..
What exactly is the point in porting and polishing ??
Did you also remove part of the metal that the valve slides into? There's like a different metal inside the aluminum hump you removed...did you remove some of that other metal as well? It looks like you did because it's not sticking out.
You’re not supposed to lol. I’ve done a lot of porting jobs on gx390 and predator 212cc motors and I’ve removed them per customer request and it never lasts that long.
U are welcome I am thinking about getting that reveno clutch what do u think about that clutch do u think it is any good
I think everything depends on what you want to get out of your scooter, for example, if you are drag racing against other scooters I think the reveno clutch will give you a little bit more advantage over the traditional clutch, but if you are just someone like me that just like to take the scooter around town and have a good time I think buying a reveno clutch is a little bit out of my price range to spend on a clutch because the difference is just going to be very Sligh against a regular clutch , I would just rather keep my original clutch or buy a high performance clutch and invest the rest of the money in something like a bigger crankshaft, oil cooler, or whatever is really help my scooter run faster , but If money is not an issue I would definitely buy it for myself too !
But that is just my 2 cents
Nice vídeo my friend. What exhaust gasket did you end up using? Or just use silicone?
Sorry for the late reply and thank you so much for watching the video , the link below is for the gasket I used for my scooter
1PZ MG2-SE3 Premium Exhaust Gasket www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3FZDJZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YSZW30XTQZ5R1F0G35R2
Le puedo quitar las guías con válvulas de fabrica?
No offense sir but keeping the valves in did nothing to protect the seats if your not being super careful and jamming the burr near the seat when removing the casting and the valve guide support. Btw lower the dremel speed when polishing.
Good work! But arnt u supposed to only polish the exhaust side bucuz i thot the roughness actually helps atomize the fuel better?
Thanks alot for watching the video!
I only polished the exhaust port but I left the intake port rough because that will prevent the gasoline to condensate and atomise better whenever the gasoline goes through the intake port , in the video the intake looks like is polish but is not I just used the carbide bit on it and I left it like it is
But yeah you are right about your statement!
You are right it was very good until he polished the deck surface. Bad mistake. First it is to easy to make it uneven with something round instead of a flat sanding surface. And 2. You never want your gasket surface polished slick. Compression could allow casket shift. You should actually wipe the deck with 80 grit paper on a flat sanding block. I’m glad to see people getting into it but research.
@@billyclevenger2632 thank you so much for the info brother, I haven't installed the cylinder head yet but before I do it I'll make sure to sand the deck surface to avoid any compression leaks !
Yes and you can actually dimple the intake side like the surface of a golf ball but this won't help if your injecting straight in to the cylinder double check.
Oh and I wouldn't grind anything on the cylinder side your going to lower the compreshion and bhp.
good job bro ,i subscribed
Thanks another for the support brother, I really appreciate it 🙏
Excelente vídeo!!!!
Hello sir, I did the porting and polishing on my cylinder head and I have the Tiada big bore 171 kit as well. I am wondering where I can get titanium valves for the head? Thank you for the video. Can you send me a link to the titanium valves?
Amazon has two types of NCY high performamce valve springs one set is $23 other titanium springs are $28 150cc only it says tho
@@cemtkeenan2750 can you tell me what size valves I need to order if I'm porting a stock 150 head? I have the Tiada bbkit and A9 cam and I want to di this to my stock head. I just don't know what valves to order. Thanks so much bmy friend!
thank you
Does it work JMR? Let me know...
Plz help, I recent ported and polished the head on my 07 Polaris outlaw 525 IRS and now I’m getting a red hot head exhaust after only about 5 min of idle. It’s an exhaust kit and slip on from Big gun. I’ve tried putting bigger jets in it, I went up from a 160 to a 170 and tried messing with the pilot screw and it helped a bit but the problem persists. Should I go even bigger on the jet?
Get a new head. And make sure your exhaust and exhaust port are free from obstructions. Don't do this porting nonsense. It adds literally no performance benefit. If anything it's a detriment
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic 🤣🤣🤣 had to do it.
now the exhaust gasket has no seat hahahaha
Great video
Thanks alot!!
Great video man. How did it it turn out? What type of performance improvements did you get? Thanks
This does zero for performance. Nothing, nada. You're just risking ruining a head.
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic if you upgraded your carb to a larger one then yes it does. its likely to be larger than the intake port on the head and since its a carb the fuel and air mixture can get pretty wonky.
Will this method work for 139qmb 50cc gy6? If I just port only exhaust and intake??
Yes it will
@JMR BUILDS mind me asking what kind or brand tool you using. new to porting beginner actually I’m porting a head on the side just to practice for my 52 mm head to put on my scooter
I have done something different on a stock 139QMB head. That was its called "hognose" both intake and exhaust guides in the ports. To "hognose" just remove material to either side of the guide and leave the guide intact. Much safer for a dependable daily scoot I thought.
I'm sorry that was my man not my mom sorry about that
No worries man I knew what you meant!
I really thought that messing with the guides was always bad for daily use
Daily or racing it will ruin your valves, all that material helpt cooling the valve stem. For racing purpose it's even worse tbh since you create higher temps. Definitly run a oil cooler routed to the head. Its possible to have that kind of a port and it being reliable but not with the materials used in these mini4strokes heads
@@mathisvleeshouwers2635 thanks I’ll be adding a oil cooler
@@jzsquad6866 👌 you could remove a little bit making it smoother. Main rule is to take your time, a little mistake will happen but you'll be able to clean it up np
Not the first one.....
I'm guessing you didn't make a follow up video on this because you absolutely ruined your head? And realized porting a 4 stroke makes almost no sense?
I will make a follow up video. I have put already like almost 900 miles and everything is still working properly, thanks for watching !
@@jmrbuildsawesome. I look forward to the follow up! But you can admit you gained no performance value from the port right?
@@A_Stereotypical_Hereticthe scooter gained like 8 miles more on the top end and is a little bit more quick reaching the top speed but for a scooter that's a big improvement lol
Of course nothing compares to a 2 stroke or a bigger engine like a 600cc inline
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic i ported mine like this some years ago and got better aceleration and top speed. Of course this head won't last like a stock one but if You wanna gain something You need sacrifice something and take some calculated risks
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic Drop the attitude.
Velocidad de aire ninguna con ese diámetro
Put a oil temp guage.and a OIL COOLER
What about extrusion hone ?
Your a Fuckn Genius 🤌🏼💯‼️🛵🔥
Seriously brother that’s amazing and I have proof thanks Very much💯🛵🔥