Traditional Sand, Cement and Lime Render - Garden Wall Rendering - External Plastering
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Have you ever wondered how to render a wall?
In this weeks video we render a few garden walls using traditional materials and methods of external plastering and rendering. We show you how to render a wall with sand and cement. The video consists of four days of work;
Day 1 - Preparation
Day 2 - Scratch coat
Day 3 - Top coat
Day 4 - Top coat and the final product reveal
Plastering consists of many different skills and traditional two coat rendering is just one of them. Rendering a garden wall is a nice way to finish those flower beds and a nice way hide the block work.
#plastering #rendering #oddlysatisfying
Paint is applied once all the render is dry.
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If you have any questions about the work or about plastering in general leave a comment here and I'll be sure to respond to you. Hope you all enjoyed the video!
Any idea how this would hold up to freeze thaw cycling? Also what kind of waterproofing is used?
The waterproofer was an additive that was added to the water when mixing. The reason the top layer contains lime and no waterproofer is to allow any water that gets between the 2 layers to evaporate away. This should prevent the freeze thaw cycle from become an issue.
Nice and clean job. What mix ratio would you use on therlite blocks
How long with this last before having to be done again? Also is there anything special needed if near the ocean? How much waterproofer is used in the scratch coat?
Is the cement necessary or could you just do the sand and lime plaster and be good?
Hello, this is the first time I've come across 4-1 scratch and then 6-1-1 top coat.
That's really nice work. When do you skim the second coat flat with the ruler? Is it immediately after applying the lime or do you let it sit for a bit? And when do you start floating it? I'm doing some plastering with trass mortar and I'm somewhat unsure about what to do when.
Thanks! I use the straight edge (ruler) right away after applying it, then it's left for a few hours before floating it. A good rule of thumb for floating is it needs to have just hardened so you can't quite leave an indentation with your thumb, but you can with your thumb nail. Hope that helps, good luck with your project!
Would really have like to see how you did the beading. Love the way it’s all left exposed. Great work 👌
Thanks John, I'll add that one to my list of videos to do!
Would u ever use a refina serrated edge for ruling sand and cement.
Or just standard straight edge
Yeah I have a refina serrated edge and you can use it but I usually use that for Monocouche. I'm sure it would be suitable though.
Can this be done exactly the same but with white cement instead please?
I really appreciate good plastering and this is good plastering.
Good video mate, making use of the good weather as well.
Thanks fat lad, I appreciate the support 👍
Excellent video pal. Never used lime in my mixes. You use it in both coats? Will give a go on my next job. What type do you use.
Thanks! It was white hydrated lime. I think Lafarge is the manufacturer of the product I used. I just put in in the top coat. It really help with the workability of the render.
I am a 76 year old retired plasterer hard arises instead of beads would have been more traditional
Hi, I like the finish and colour. What type of sand did you use? Was it the sand that defined the final colour?
Lovely job that..Tricky bit of beading but looks spot on
Thanks, it was a bit fiddly but worked out nice!
Any Australian renderers watching - see how he put more than 2mm of mix on and didn’t drop dead?
There's around 18mm in total when combining the 2 coats, just to give a bit more weight to your comment 👍
absolutely! they have some weird ways in Australia, they call it sand finish where the applie a skim coat of fines sand 4/2/1 with heaps of pva and sponge it up, the majority of the people calling themselves solid plasterers can't even scread a wall it just weird
Absolutely cracking bit of rendering.Top quality work 👍
Thanks mate
Great job.must say ,there is no such thing as a half day plastering.4 days ,still good going.
Can this technique work on the Interior walls?
Sure, although typically you would want a smoother finish on interior walls. So it would usually be finished with a skim coat rather than rubbed up and sponged.
What was the point of the lime, when you have cement in the mix, sorry for the non professional question, I thought it was use one or the other?
As far as I'm aware, hydrated lime won't actually set without the addition of cement. Also the lime used as an additive increases workability (plasticity) and creates a stronger bond to the substrate. Also It can give the surface breathability that aids moisture evaporating and escaping if it gets between the layers.
@@ryanseeley thanks for the info
Ia
awesome work! really helps a fellow out, quick question what is it you use to float it all flat before you use the sponge? seems to be a wooden float ? Thanks a bunch keep the great videos up :D
Hey thanks for the kind words. This particular float is a polyurethane float. It's very lightweight and inexpensive.
Lovely render job pal.
What size beads u use on this render job
Thanks 👍 if I remember these were 15mm beads
I did the same lime mix for the scratch coat, will it be ok? Wish I'd seen this last night!
Don't worry too much about that mate, some plasterers insist on putting lime in both coats, it's just a personal preference. It will be fine 👍
@@ryanseeley I did the top coat on Sunday and today there are many hair line cracks. How best to fill these up, cement lime and water mix? Thanks
They look like this ruclips.net/video/P_lswNwjanQ/видео.html
Nice bit of work that mate! What sand do you use for scratch coat and top coat??
Thanks I just used plastering sand that I got from Wickes. I believe it was tarmac plastering sand
Hi mate what type of sand and waterproofer do you use
Hi, it was plastering sand from b and q and the waterproofer is bostik orange waterproofer
whats mix for the top coat
6 sand, 1 cement, 1 hydrated lime
Great job I only ever do traditional sand and cement with hydrated in top coat ! I hate doing mono jobs !
Thanks! I enjoy using it.
Is there a reason the lime is not in the scratch coat please?
Beads should be bedded in with mortar not nailed on, 2 half days work in it for a plasterer not a DIY er
What do you use to stick the beads on?
I just tacked these on with clout nails as the walls were super straight. Had they not been I usually use a bit of mortar.
I am wanting to use this recipe and technique for hyperadobe and superadobe earthbag structures. Would this be possible? Also what is the lifetime for the plaster and how many years should it be redone
Obviously good work but you didn't show any of the ruling off of the scratch coat after laying on
In your place, you really don’t use metal in between bricks? Or I may have missed it.
Why do you scratch coat? Why not put on the desired thickness then float?
What is the best way to achieve a trowel finish as opposed to a smooth finish?
Lovly kob well done
Tasty work lad
This is by far the best demo and show render video out there. Really reassuring to what is possible. As afore mentioned videos on prep i.e. beads and wall soaking would be good from someone like yourself. In addition more advice on 'why' you use the items you do... e.g waterproofer? why? is it just to plasticise the mix? or do you advise a waterproof element in the base. TBF this was one of the only queries i was left with from the mix ratio advise given.
Brilliant work there pal.... If my job goes anywhere near this quality i'll be chuffed!
Thanks a lot, I will revise my render video this summer and try to answer some of your questions in that one. I'm sure if you just stick to the basics you can't go to far wrong. And remember you can always take it off and do it again. Sand and cement are very affordable! Good luck
That looks like a lot of hard work and like something you can't do if you're not patient... ever tried traditional plastering? by that i mean the process in witch you create vertical guides with the mud, line them up and then just fill up the rest, after that , simply apply a thin coat of a finer sand product and then just float it, that would be less of a drag i think :) either way good job it looks good !
Thanks for the kind words. yeah the method you are talking about is what we call a box screed. I occasionally do it if the wall isn't to level to begin with but in this case the guys who build the wall made it pretty straight and level.
How much did you charge for this job??
Hi I don't remember exactly how much but I think it was around £1200 - £1400
WOW that looks awesome!!! What are the options if you didn't want to see the exposed beading?
Also, is it possible to do the job without cement, just the NHL?
Thanks I appreciate that.
You would typically paint this once dry or you could apply a thin coat render system like silicone render which would hide the exposed beads. Alternatively you could do this without beads and just have hard angles.
No sure about the NHL, we used hydrated lime and I'm not sure if it would set without the addition of the cement.
Lovely job 👍
Nice job, very satisfying
Nice work, how do you prevent crazing from drying to quick? Cheers ab
Thanks, you want to make sure you prepare the surface properly to control the suction, SBR can help slow down suction. Then ensure you really soak the surface before applying a new layer. That should help alot
excellent
Nice job and tunes man. Im making a cob bench and will be lime rendering it soon. I was thinking 3 sand 1 lime. I'd not considered cement. Do you thing it would be better ? I'm also worried about waterproofing. thanks
I'd never actually heard of cob until just now. I've had a quick look but I can't really help you here unfortunately, but it sounds really cool. I'm gonna have a look into this. I know lime is permeable to water, but because of this it also allows thing covered with lime to dry out under the render. Cement would cause it to set harder but would also make it less flexible and increase likelihood of cracks. Good luck with your project
@@ryanseeley aww thanks for your reply, I'm thinking a lime wash or olive soap may help. dunno guess try one and see how it holds up over the winter. I just saw a cool technique called tadelakt where you use a stone to rub the lime plaster. you can make lime plaster sinks and baths that way. amazing. thanks again dude
With all the new render types these days , how do you choose which to use or did the customer ask for traditional render?
Hi, in this case it was requested by the customer. Its certainly not as easy to work with as the new modern types.
@@ryanseeley Thanks for your reply. And ill look forward to more of your videos.
Hey, I rendered a couple of garden walls this week with the same mix as you. I'm struggling to work out what to paint it with though. What would you recommend? Is limewash made from hydrated lime a pain in the ass? I'm after a nice white finish.
Hi to be honest mate I'm not really sure as I don't usually do the painting. That said I've hered good things about Elastocolor as it's supposed to be impermeable to water but still breathable. Let me know if you find a good paint as it would be useful to know.
Skimfast Plastering Cheers bud 👍
(Great video by the way)
Great job. Can building sand be used with cement for first coat instead of regular sand?
Thanks, I don't believe so as Plastering sand is usually washed and treated to eliminate unwanted minerals and organisms etc. At least that's what I believe to be the case.
@@ryanseeley Understood, thank you.
Hi thanks for your great video excellent work I just subscribed!!
So if you put in the Lime you don't need to use any plasticiser? also is water proofer the same as SBR? or did you just use a pure water proofer with no SBR in your scratch coat and did you put any water proofer in your top coat?
Many thanks Chris
Hi Chris, firstly welcome to the channel. It's a new channel and I appreciate every new subscriber, it helps a lot! So thanks.
Ok the lime does help as a plasticiser but some people still add it in. I didn't but you can if you like. SBR is more of a wall stabilizer. You would apply it to the wall prior to applying the render to help control suction and help with the render bonding to the wall. Some people mix SBR with cement to create a slurry mix that can be painted on a surface to help with adhesion, but I wouldn't put it in the mix.
Waterproofer is different and I only put it in the scratch coat. The top coat has lime in which allows the top coat to breathe.
Thanks
Ryan
@@ryanseeley That's great Ryan thanks for taking the time to reply. Very helpful information., much appreciated. Looking forward to more videos. Chris
@@ryanseeley what is a plasticiser?
Quality rendering pal
Thanks
Nice job, any reason why you don't wet your block before scratch coat?
Thanks, I did actually wet it (off camera) but I think by the time I got around to putting it on the heat had dried it out mostly.
White cement? Lovely job by the way
Thanks, it's just standard Portland cement bit it does dry quite light.
Thanks, 6+1+1 what sand is it?
It's plastering sand, it's goes through a washing process to prevent mold growth apparently. The brand in this case was Tarmac Plastering sand
Nice job!
Thanks Paul!
Can you plaster without angle bead.
Hi, yes you can, I prefer not to as I use the beads to help with leveling the wall, but you can use battens or a straight edge to help form the angles instead.
I love rendering 👍 bring on the summertime
Great video as normal mate, im helping do a rendering job the weekend and I'm just trying to get my head around the mix ratio. Can you break the mixes down?
Thanks. Sure, the scratch coat is 4-1 sand to cement with a bit of plasticiser/waterproofer in the water to help with workability.
The top coat is 6-1-1 sand to cement to lime.
Is that what you wanted to know?
@@ryanseeley thanks brill mate, so the top coat, do you add the lime to the water
No I just throw the dehydrated lime In to the mixer withe the sand cement and water
No lime in the scratch coat ?