Great content Mr.Scientist, the hay dog function is ever so important, I spray my hay dog pins w/ a shot of penetrating oil every other time I grease the baler.
i will check my dogs but I wondered about twine tension also. MY 268 makes great bales and ties everytime but I put in new twine for 2nd cut with very light winrows. The bales came out very loose, would almost fall apart. cranking it down only made bales heavier, still to loose. I hope its just the hay and not baler.
Unfortunately that’s the draw back with light soft hay. Second cut is shorter and finer. Increase your baling speed to feed the baler faster, and if they make wedges for the bale chamber of a 268 those will help with tension as well. Faster ground speed will help more than anything. I bale 5 mph in light hay to keep my 311 fed.
On second cut I'll combine 3 rows into one to have a nice fat consistent row that keeps the baler fed and nice tight bakes. Did that with my NH 278 and now with my NH575. I have an LS MT7101cps and I can tailor the ground speed to match the windrow far better than with my old Case 930 which was either too fast or too slow
Just bought my NH275 last fall. It has six haydogs. 4 of the 6 were either rusted in place or broken springs - thanks for the great video
As always, thanks for the videos. You explain things very clearly. Have a nice day.
Thanks man, I really appreciate it and glad you find some value in it.
Thanks for the information on the hay dogs.
Great content Mr.Scientist, the hay dog function is ever so important, I spray my hay dog pins w/ a shot of penetrating oil every other time I grease the baler.
Good video. thanks
Super helpful. Where did you purchase the new springs.
Messicks, New Holland Rochester, or your local dealer.
i will check my dogs but I wondered about twine tension also. MY 268 makes great bales and ties everytime but I put in new twine for 2nd cut with very light winrows. The bales came out very loose, would almost fall apart. cranking it down only made bales heavier, still to loose. I hope its just the hay and not baler.
Unfortunately that’s the draw back with light soft hay. Second cut is shorter and finer. Increase your baling speed to feed the baler faster, and if they make wedges for the bale chamber of a 268 those will help with tension as well.
Faster ground speed will help more than anything. I bale 5 mph in light hay to keep my 311 fed.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer When I went faster the pickup would skip over and leave hay on the ground. Thanks for your very good videos.
Then the next step is to make sure your hay dogs are good. If they are, then you’d benefit from wedges n
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I have two dogs on top and bottom and six wedges.
On second cut I'll combine 3 rows into one to have a nice fat consistent row that keeps the baler fed and nice tight bakes. Did that with my NH 278 and now with my NH575.
I have an LS MT7101cps and I can tailor the ground speed to match the windrow far better than with my old Case 930 which was either too fast or too slow
Do you think shimming the wedges with washers would help when baling light hay ? How many washers ?
It might? I’ve never tried it. In fact, I don’t even use wedges in my baler. Try it and see what it does. Maybe just add a few washers to start.
Had to use a ball joint separator and impact gun to get the pins out.
Thoughts on a NH 269 that won’t tie?
That’s like asking “why won’t my car start?” There could be a lot of reasons why it’s not tying, and depends how it’s not tying as well.
It might be out of time, have a bent Needle arm ... Or a hundred other things wrong with it.