Making test knots on your square baler knotters
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- Опубликовано: 1 ноя 2022
- If you’ve ever experienced issues with your knotters, you have probably had the need to run some test knots through them. In this video, I demonstrate a few ways of doing this, and explain everything from the safest way up to the most dangerous way. It should be said to try these at your own risk and peril.  By far the safest way is to tie another piece of twine onto the existing twine in the baler and use this to pull on the twine so you do not actually have to reach your hand into it. Unfortunately, this was the only method I did not actually demonstrate!
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Hi. I haven’t read all the comments so maybe someone has suggested it, but the method I use, shown to me by my father, is totally safe. The baker is turned over by hand. One operator can do it. Pull the strings out like you are doing while the baler is stopped, one at a time, to simulate a bale moving into the chamber, then tie the end you are pulling to the meter wheel shaft. Keep the string reasonably taut. Then trip the knitter mechanism and go to the flywheel and turn it in the direction of running as indicated by the arrow. You can watch the progress of the needles by sighting the movement of the frame that carries the needles on the side you are standing. Go through the full cycle and then see what your results were. If you want to stand at the knotters and watch the operation then you will need an assistant to turn the flywheel. All safe and slow. No one need lose a hand or fingers. Best wishes from Tasmania.
I use bungee cords to pull the twine back and spin The flywheel by hand...
That’s for that. Useful!
Used to do this all the time when I was a mechanic and luckily never got injured. Looking back at it a dowel with a hook on the end would have been a better choice than sticking my hand into a running machine. Granted it wouldn’t have been nearly as exciting. lol
That’s similar to how the hay hook works. The squeamish people can just tie string around it and pull it back that way. I’ve seen several people mention bungees but can’t see how a bungee could put enough tension on it.
Thx I have twine braking and I'm figuring it out I'm sure this will help
There could be a lot of reasons for the twine breaking, and determines when and where it is breaking at (before the knot or after tying?). Your manual troubleshooting section will offer several things to look at as well.
"Hi This the one armed scientist hay farmer....."
I have an IH 425, similar. I'm looking for how to thread one of the needles that the twine came out due to being jammed up in the twine box. Thank you for the video.
This video here. Will be the same on most any baler.
Tying twine balls together and threading the needles on your square baler
ruclips.net/video/Y0ruHTHUk70/видео.html
I couldn't believe anyone would mess about like this. Cheep bungee cords or a mate pulling the strings from the end of the chute is surely obvious! Sorry to be negative but that was just weird😅 ps the strings can be as long as you like, just pull them out the back then trip the knotter😊
I’m me and just me, I don’t have a mate, and I find bungees work awful. Half the time they still don’t pull the knot off.
Great idea about pulling the strings clear back. I don’t know why I never thought of that!
Thank you for your tips. You help me tremendously. I be testi ng the biler today will keep you posted my Edwin manassas va
hmmmm......i just use a bunji cord to tension the twine to test...
Lol that's what I was going to say, use a bungie with a spring on each side, the spring will simulate tension and the bungies snap it backwards safely for inspection so it doesn't get snagged on something.
I like tying another piece of twine around it better than a bungee. I can pull on it harder.
First time viewing I really like your video and it was a lot of help. I got a New Holland 277. There is a little shiny hook in there I'm not for sure of the name of it. Does the string go through it or over top of it? It's got like a 2 piece to it like it could go right through the center of it.
Welcome to my channel and thanks! That is called the billhook if I am assuming the part you’re referring to correctly. Does it look like it has a little jaw? The string runs over the top of it, and when the knotters tie, that billhook spins around, opens as it turns, grabs the string in the center and that’s how the knot is tied. The wiper arm then slides across the bottom of the billhook and wipes the knot off the billhook. It all happens in an an instant.
I like your videos, How do i shim the blades when I replace the blades on a case sbx540
If it’s anything like a New Holland, there are actual shims that go behind the plunger knife and stationary knife. There should be clearance specifications in the manual.
You could probably loop a rope around the strings when the baker was OFF, start the baler, and pull back on the rope, out of harms way.
Yes absolutely. I actually mention that in the video too. I actually just did that method today working on a guy’s inline baler.
I just purchased a 311 this past September. I ran a couple of broken bales that I had in the barn and it did great. Can I ask what kind of twine are you using and what knot strength? Thanks
311 is a great baler. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a second one as a backup. I run poly twine. I like to run Tyrite 170 knot strength but my supplier died, so this year I had to run the Orangeline 130 knot strength.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer good deal. Thanks
Broke needles when the spring came loose on the yoke lock. bought new yoke and needles but man working on it say yoke not right and needles won't line up to go thru to knotters. I'm 81 and can't get it done myself. Bought yoke from midwest dealer and he said was right for my serial number. Old 310 and was baling great until the cotter pin came out and cause the spring to be loose. Any comments on what to do or just get another baler.
I'm not sure what you mean about the yoke lock spring. Which midwest dealer did you buy it from? I'd be pretty confident they got you the right part, how confident are you in the guy installing it? If it truly is wrong I'd first call the dealership back and tell them it doesn't fit.
Are you on Facebook? Join the New Holland Small Square Balers group on Facebook as well as New Holland Hay and Forage Equipment group and ask your question there too. A lot of helpful people there.
I don't think you probably need a new baler, just need to get to the bottom of why the part doesn't fit.
Never seen a baler that was empty except on youtube.
A lot of people don’t take very good care of their balers.
I read or heard elsewhere that we should leave a bale in the baler at the end of the run, so getting started the next season will be easier. Not having to re-string the needles, etc. I assume this would be okay if the baler is stored in a shed where the bale won't get soaked by rain and possibly rust components inside the chamber.
The “excuses” for storing a bale in the chute do not justify the potential harm of accelerated rotting to your bale chute. Ignoring the fact that it’s extremely easy to restring the needles, it’s not something that even has to be done. All you need to do is trip the knotter on the very last bale and it will tie it. Pull the last bale out and if it’s too tight to pull out then cut the string and pull the bale out in sections. Once the bale is out the chute is empty and the knotters are still strung.
For getting started the following year, the very first bale out will be loose. I stop and refeed this bale through but the rest of the bales will be good. I can see how this would be problematic if you have a thrower, in which case I probably would leave a bale in. Just another reason for why I don’t have a thrower.
It would be just as easy to take a length of twine, loop it around the two, then run your test cycle.
I also say that in the video.
No, sorry do not stick your hands inside a baler that is running. This is asking for disaster. It does not matter how fast you are or how good you are at timing or how safe you think you are being, or how secure you feel. All it takes is one little oops and you are without a hand, an arm or worse.
There is a much safer way to do this than reaching your hand in a moving baler. Either like gary nelson stated use a bungy cord on the twine before the baler is started. Or Simply tie another piece of twine around each string and out of the back kind of forming a U. You can then start the machine, without getting your hands in there and still put the required tension on the string to test your knots.
I explained the safest way at the beginning. Just like I also said to not stick your hand in a running baler if you’re not comfortable with it
Also as a side note, you should never work on a running baler by yourself, more so meaning alone. Someone else should be there on the tractor just in case.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I saw what you said, but you also showed the opposite. I am just saying you should never be comfortable with it, just not worth the risk.
Not trying to sound mean or condescending in anyway. Too many of us loose limbs or worse because we get too comfortable, its just better all round to tie another piece of twine out the back of the chute and pull on that. Its already at the baler, just make a 6 foot string and tie onto it.
@@FarmingGeeks yes, it is definitely safer to tie string onto it. I probably should have demonstrated that method as well.
30 years of baling and this is a new one for me. Read your manual, do not check equipment with the tractor running and the PTO is running, don't do it!!!!. Listen to me, to check how your baler is tying knots is to pull twine toward the rear and just take a bungee cord and put around the string, then pull it tight and then you can turn flywheel by hand. I've worked on these balers for years and your limbs are not worth getting injured. I always use the bungee cord and have someone turn it slowly so I can view all aspects with the bill hook turning and able to see how the twine is tying, swiped off the bill hook, and twine cut as well as watching my hay dogs and the twine disc cutters. Find you an old man that knows how to work on these balers, they're out there and they can show you how to safely make adjustments.
Question what grade bolt use on the nutter timer
I use the New Holland shearbolts. The knotters are just too expensive to risk over a cheap bolt.
Was wo dering if you could make a video on how to set bales compression? My baler new holland 377 for some reason compress much more alfalfa on the right side or the side where the plunger knife and needle brake and arm are. It causes my string to snap every 3 bales
Good idea, thanks for the suggestion. My guess is that your feeder tines probably need adjusted. One or more of the tines needs to be adjusted farther over to the left side of the baler in order to more evenly feed hay into the bale chamber. This is described in the owners manual, but I will put it on my list of videos to make. I always love more ideas for content. I make videos on what problems I might be facing but it’s helpful to hear what issues others are having that could be addressed too. Though I’m far from an expert.
My sbx 540 does the same thing.
Im bailing coastal Bermuda and my 540 does it on the intake side,Thxs Jr
I would love to see a video on shimming the blades on my sbx 540,and the feeder arms.👍🏽Your tripping the knotter video was very impressive.i didn't know u could manually do that,🙏🏽👍🏽 appreciate you thxs.Jr
I ordered a salvage yoke for my N H 310. Told them the serial number. Sent and mechanic put yoke on with new needles. He said that was the wrong yoke..Any ideas???
Sounds like then might have sent you the wrong yoke. How close to the original is it?
Hi
Please i have a question regarding the knotters
i have one side longer than the other on the bales, is it normal ?
that usually happens if the rpm in low and not much grass is entering the bailer.
Is there a way to avoid this !
Do you mean one end of the bale is longer than the other side of the bale? Are they banana shaped? My initial guess is you need to adjust your feeder tines. They’re probably not moving the hay all the way into the bale chamber so more hay is getting packed onto the baler’s right side than the left. To adjust for this, looses the feeder tines and slide them closer to the bale chamber a few inches.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Yes your guess is correct
Its like a banana shape but not almost a banana shape slightly curved.
If your looking at the bailer from the back where the bails comes out. The left side is always good but the right side is longer and some times the knot is loose also.
Is there a video showing how to tighten feeder tines, because i have no clue where they are located and how to adjust them
@marzouqhumoud2616 I don’t know if a video exists or not. You need a manual for your baler if you do not have one.
The feeder tines are the long spikes that move the hay into the bale chamber. They are just clamped on to a rod. Loosening the bolt at the top of the spike allows it to slide. The manual tells how to do this.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Hi sir
I live in Kuwait.
We usually order bailers to come to our country, the issue we dont have any mechanics or any dealer here, so no one has experience working on bailers.
So am really having an issue with it.
If i manage and get the manual i will have difficult maintaining and adjusting.
I will try my best to figure it out
I have case sb541 2013 model, i tried looking up the manual but there are many manuals and they got me lost. I dont think its a problem with the feeder tines. i will take my time and see whats the problem.
Thank you for answering my question and helping out your videos are very useful especially for me since i have zero knowledge.
I don't know anything about that baler having never worked one or been around one, I've only used New Holland and John Deere balers. Here is the website where you can access a manual. Enter the serial number of your baler and you can get a free manual.
www.caseih.com/en-us/unitedstates/service-support/operators-manuals
Three are three things (on a New Holland baler, at least) that can cause the symptoms you're seeing:
Hay feeding is not uniform (symptom of feeder tines not feeding hay far enough into the baler chamber so more hay gets put on one side of the bale than the other
A bad hay dog (I have a video on these)
Your bale chute tension is higher on the short side than the long side. Are you tensioners manual (you turn a crank to tighten down) or hydraulic?
How to install twine
See my video on how to tie twine balls together.
Is that needle bar bent?
Are you referring to the needle brake rod connecting the needle yoke to the brake?
Yes it has a bend in it, that is how it is supposed to be.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer yes,
Supposed to be bent.
I learned this for an amish man with one arms😂
I wish I would have incorporated that joke into the video!
@@TheScientistHayFarmer lol
And anyway, who knows machinery better than the Amish?
They know it pretty well, considering there’s an entire brand of Amish hay equipment (Esch).
SAVE A LIMB, USE A BUNGEE CORD TO TENSION THE TWINE!!!!!!!****
And to observe the knotters, rig up a geared down electric motor with a remote switch that you can connect to the flywheel with a belt! Some flywheels on older balers actually have "V" grooves built into them for add on options.
For all of you out there who care about yourself and your family, DO NOT put any part of your body into a running machine! Find another way. For example, tie a string onto the ones inside the machine while it's off. I am appalled that anyone would post this for the public to see.
Thanks safety police. I live my life with the level of risk I choose and I let others decide what they’re willing to choose, which is why I describe safer alternative methods as well.
Been grabbing strings for 40 years, self preservation, skill and respect is what keeps me healthy not ignorance and fear.
One of the Dumbest things I ever watched on here........
Not sure who told or showed you this method !!!! but People """""NEVER """" put your hand in a running baler !!!!! this method is totally WRONG....
How about you don’t do it and I’ll continue to do it. It’s really not that dangerous because your hand still stays in front of the plunger. The plunger does not go all the way to the string.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I've been farming and making hay for 45 years and the first thing you are taught is to never put your body parts in or around moving parts.You should take the video down ! Young just starting out farm kids do not need to see this.
@SEANGUS-xe9ib It’s not coming down. I show alternative ways of doing this as well and caution you to not do this if you’re not comfortable. I learned this trick from an old Amish baler tech and find this way to be most effective at testing knots. You have a higher chance of getting hurt on the wagon than by this method.