Yes good job showing and telling,so if I get one like yours there I’ll know what to look for.and Thay sure are a lot of parts to look at thanks again for showing telling and keep up the good work showing will see ya next time see ya bye .
My old welger rp12 baled around 40,000 silage bales, my welger rp235 should do over 60,000, some mchale fusion balers have done 100,000 silage bales !! That's why no one hardly has new Holland balers here, built too light to last
I'm new to this hence why I'm watching this video. My question is if the chain is stretched enough can't you just take a link out and reset the tensioner?
Yes, that's possible. But a chain that has stretched will not fit the sprockets correctly, therefore the sprockets will wear faster. If the sprockets are worn enough, they can cause the chain to slip. You don't want to have to change the sprockets and chains.
Do you know how too add presser to your bale tensioning systemi have a book it doesn’t explain it well it sure what size quick coupler is to make a hose
As I mentioned in the video, the bale tension system uses hydraulics, and is "closed" - meaning that it does not connect to your tractor. You may not need all of the details, but I will cover them here. First you connect that system to your tractor. I found a coupling behind the baler front pressure gauge (7:36). I purchased a special-sized coupling to match that connector, then made up a hydraulic hose with that special coupling and plugged the hose into my tractor SCV. From the tractor, I pressurized the baler's system, then released that pressure. Repeated that until I was certain there was no air left in the baler's hydraulics. I disconnected the special coupling. At this point, the system is ready to use. The valve in the rear of the baler (7:48) is used to control hydraulic pressure, thus control density. The more the valve is closed, the higher the hydraulic pressure. That pressure is shown by the front pressure gauge. It must never be completely closed. When the rear gate is opened (normal operating process via the tractor SCV), the pressure gauge shows the pressure setting, even when no bale is present.
I thank you for an interesting thought, but I can't find a reason to embrace the concept of used oil. Could it use more lube? Yes. If you have tried to use engine oil on chains, you have probably noted that it slings off, and the trend these days is to use the very thinnest oil to save fuel with an engine that has close tolerances. Chain Lube in a can or bottle has a very sticky nature to keep in on the chain, which is why motorcycles use a specific-purpose lubricant. Even heavy gear oil is better than engine oil because it will stay around a little longer. Used oil is no longer in service because it is no longer considered a good lubricant, and using that to avoid spending $5 on a machine worth thousands just not make economic sense.
The best practice to ensure chains operate optimally may be to lube them after a few (8?) hours of use and when the machine is stored between uses. Doing it before storage will keep condensation-based rust and corrosion at bay. If the storage is for a lengthy time, say over winter, another lube session before the season's first use would be very beneficial. Even with all of that, chains do stretch and will need replacement at some point. Hopefully it is a delayed point.
Good question. Bad bearings would feel rough when turned, give off noise, or create heat. The first two symptoms would not be detectable on a running unit. I highly recommend an "infrared thermometer" gun. Harbor Freight sells them for $25. Run the baler for at least 15 minutes, then take the gun and point it at all of the bearings, looking for one that is warmer than the rest. A very common occurrence with balers is that they burn up in the field. For that, the cause is a bearing that has failed and gets so hot (red hot) that it ignites nearby hay dust or hay. Therefore a gun is a perfect tool to review bearing temperatures when stopped for a break or at the end of the day. I found a bad bearing by accident when I was brushing hay away from the chains and chain sprockets with my bare hand, therefore I could feel that one area was warmer than the rest.
When they net wrap does it just go round the outside of the bale.... We have had silage bales that have the net baled into bale about half a turn which makes unwrapping more difficult any thoughts
My wrap is only on the outside. Are you saying that your wrap starts before the hay gathering completes? My bale monitor inside the tractor signals to me when the bale size is complete. It is up to ME to stop the tractor so no more hay is added. After the signal, the monitor waits something like 5 seconds before it instructs the baler to start the wrap process. IF I have stopped, this is enough time for the baler to finish up packing the hay, then the wrap starts. If I fail to stop at the signal, or coast, or continue driving, the wrap process starts even if the baler is still picking up hay. P.S. even if you stop, if there is material sitting in the baler pickup area but unfed into the bale, sometimes that unfed material is caught and added even though wrapping has started.
There is a delay for net to start binding. When I set up a baler for a customer I always adjust this to the operators reaction times to stop net getting baled into the bale. Usually set to 3 seconds. This adjustment is in the monitor.
I do not know the difference. When I look for specs, both are 1994-1998 models, and the specs suggest more power to run the 654, but pickup width and bale size appear to be the same. Sometimes balers have an option for slicing - maybe that's the difference?
You're right. If replaced each time it is/would be damaged, I'd be replacing it a few times each year ... at $130+ each time. Instead, I avoid being in the area when it is turning.
Lol I have the same baler. My dad died and left it to me. I have no idea how to use it. I know how to use the old balers. The cows damaged the wires and display. I have no Idea how to fix it.Mine has twine not net.
Yes good job showing and telling,so if I get one like yours there I’ll know what to look for.and Thay sure are a lot of parts to look at thanks again for showing telling and keep up the good work showing will see ya next time see ya bye .
Grease is cheaper then parts and stretched chains will wear out sprockets due to them hitting the teeth wrong. Great video!!
Great points.
nice vid mate, thorough coverage. greetings from New Zealand
Thank you for making this! I'm looking at a BR7070
Outstanding video by the way.
nice informative video. i need to watch yearly to remember it all. thank you
Thank you, that was an excellent video
Great video and information, thank you Rancher 96!
You're welcome.
Very good explain thank you alot for this really very useful advicied to baying used machine. Thank you again.
My old welger rp12 baled around 40,000 silage bales, my welger rp235 should do over 60,000, some mchale fusion balers have done 100,000 silage bales !! That's why no one hardly has new Holland balers here, built too light to last
I'm new to this hence why I'm watching this video. My question is if the chain is stretched enough can't you just take a link out and reset the tensioner?
Yes, that's possible. But a chain that has stretched will not fit the sprockets correctly, therefore the sprockets will wear faster. If the sprockets are worn enough, they can cause the chain to slip. You don't want to have to change the sprockets and chains.
God bless you man! Really valuable information.
Thank you. It takes a lot of time to create and post any video. Glad that you find it to be useful.
Do you know how too add presser to your bale tensioning systemi have a book it doesn’t explain it well it sure what size quick coupler is to make a hose
As I mentioned in the video, the bale tension system uses hydraulics, and is "closed" - meaning that it does not connect to your tractor. You may not need all of the details, but I will cover them here. First you connect that system to your tractor. I found a coupling behind the baler front pressure gauge (7:36). I purchased a special-sized coupling to match that connector, then made up a hydraulic hose with that special coupling and plugged the hose into my tractor SCV. From the tractor, I pressurized the baler's system, then released that pressure. Repeated that until I was certain there was no air left in the baler's hydraulics. I disconnected the special coupling. At this point, the system is ready to use. The valve in the rear of the baler (7:48) is used to control hydraulic pressure, thus control density. The more the valve is closed, the higher the hydraulic pressure. That pressure is shown by the front pressure gauge. It must never be completely closed. When the rear gate is opened (normal operating process via the tractor SCV), the pressure gauge shows the pressure setting, even when no bale is present.
Seems like the older series 80 chain needs you, the owner to oil it from a bottle of motor oil so it stoppes jumping. Used motor oil is fine.
I thank you for an interesting thought, but I can't find a reason to embrace the concept of used oil. Could it use more lube? Yes. If you have tried to use engine oil on chains, you have probably noted that it slings off, and the trend these days is to use the very thinnest oil to save fuel with an engine that has close tolerances. Chain Lube in a can or bottle has a very sticky nature to keep in on the chain, which is why motorcycles use a specific-purpose lubricant. Even heavy gear oil is better than engine oil because it will stay around a little longer. Used oil is no longer in service because it is no longer considered a good lubricant, and using that to avoid spending $5 on a machine worth thousands just not make economic sense.
The best practice to ensure chains operate optimally may be to lube them after a few (8?) hours of use and when the machine is stored between uses. Doing it before storage will keep condensation-based rust and corrosion at bay. If the storage is for a lengthy time, say over winter, another lube session before the season's first use would be very beneficial. Even with all of that, chains do stretch and will need replacement at some point. Hopefully it is a delayed point.
Thank you! Very informative 👍
How do you know when a bearing goes bad or is on its way out?
Good question. Bad bearings would feel rough when turned, give off noise, or create heat. The first two symptoms would not be detectable on a running unit. I highly recommend an "infrared thermometer" gun. Harbor Freight sells them for $25. Run the baler for at least 15 minutes, then take the gun and point it at all of the bearings, looking for one that is warmer than the rest. A very common occurrence with balers is that they burn up in the field. For that, the cause is a bearing that has failed and gets so hot (red hot) that it ignites nearby hay dust or hay. Therefore a gun is a perfect tool to review bearing temperatures when stopped for a break or at the end of the day. I found a bad bearing by accident when I was brushing hay away from the chains and chain sprockets with my bare hand, therefore I could feel that one area was warmer than the rest.
Great video. Thank you.
When they net wrap does it just go round the outside of the bale.... We have had silage bales that have the net baled into bale about half a turn which makes unwrapping more difficult any thoughts
My wrap is only on the outside. Are you saying that your wrap starts before the hay gathering completes? My bale monitor inside the tractor signals to me when the bale size is complete. It is up to ME to stop the tractor so no more hay is added. After the signal, the monitor waits something like 5 seconds before it instructs the baler to start the wrap process. IF I have stopped, this is enough time for the baler to finish up packing the hay, then the wrap starts. If I fail to stop at the signal, or coast, or continue driving, the wrap process starts even if the baler is still picking up hay. P.S. even if you stop, if there is material sitting in the baler pickup area but unfed into the bale, sometimes that unfed material is caught and added even though wrapping has started.
There is a delay for net to start binding. When I set up a baler for a customer I always adjust this to the operators reaction times to stop net getting baled into the bale. Usually set to 3 seconds.
This adjustment is in the monitor.
You’re still moving and feeding in more crop when bale tying starts and that’s why the netting is inside the bale
WOULD YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 644 AND 654 NEW HOLLAND BALER? GREAT VIDEO BY THE WAY
I do not know the difference. When I look for specs, both are 1994-1998 models, and the specs suggest more power to run the 654, but pickup width and bale size appear to be the same. Sometimes balers have an option for slicing - maybe that's the difference?
644 is 4x5 and 654 baler makes a 4x6 ft bale
Hello good video. Your pto cover needs to be replaced. It's a working component that it not working like it is. Just a thought have a great day.
You're right. If replaced each time it is/would be damaged, I'd be replacing it a few times each year ... at $130+ each time. Instead, I avoid being in the area when it is turning.
@@rancher9625 Guess I'm just lucky I've never wrecked pto yet but have a great day thanks your reply
How many bales through your baler?
I think you just said 10, 000
Lol I have the same baler. My dad died and left it to me. I have no idea how to use it. I know how to use the old balers. The cows damaged the wires and display. I have no Idea how to fix it.Mine has twine not net.
Replace it probably? Coons wrecked ours on our corn chopper.
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