nicely explained 👍 could you please tell me how many Newton meters the screws from the compressor and blower get? did you notice an extreme difference in the performance?
Lol, nah I don’t know about “Newton meters”, but the IAT2’s did go down around 7-10 degrees from what I was seeing previously. I now average IAT2 temps that are 7-9 degrees above the IAT temps. It use to run IAT2’s 15-20 degrees above the IAT temps. I posted a video of a driving review of this where I show the data during a 30min drive.
I am guessing that you mean strut tower bar and not it was not able to go back on. The aftermarket hood that I am running clear just fine. I am not running a front sway bar either though btw.
Was there any alignment issues when bolting the blower down. It’s just the bolts locating the blower right? I ordered the thermal spacers, I’m just wondering while putting the blower down onto them that they could shift a bit and can’t see it and then when you bolt it down the plate could potentially block parts of the ports.
I have a 408 stroker and i have a 2.35 upper pulley & 9.55 lower pulley, ice tank and upgraded heat exchanger(dms). But i am still fighting with iats, ive been looking for solutions and wanted to know since i cant find any actual data for iats, how much would you say this method has dropped your iats?
I don’t have 1/4 mile data, but for daily driving, I would normally be 15-17 degrees above ambient temperature with a 2.5/9.6 pulley setup. I now have the spacers and a 2.38/9.6 pulley setup and my iats are 5-8 degrees above ambient temperature. The spacers and thermal blanket are definitely worth it.
did these upgrades help, i am thinking of adding them to my Escalade, i probably have enough room under hood. i have a bad lifter and hope it hasn't rounded the cam. i may need suggestions on a cam and the labor do you have any suggestions. thank you for your videos.
I will do my best to help you and I have a lot of videos here on this platform that will hopefully help you out as well. I try to go into detail on my videos and include part numbers. I did a driving review video and went into detail on how much my temps dropped and how it affected the temps. It definitely helps heat soak issues and recovery after a pull. I have yet to see 10 degrees over ambient while cruising and my blower is VERY overdriven. If you end up needing a cam, then you CAN’T go wrong with a RCR (Rick Crawford Racing) cam. Thanks for the comments and thanks for supporting the channel. Just let me know what you need or want to know.
i am ordering the 20mm lid and thermal blanket right now, figure if i have to take it off to fix bad lifter might as well put it on when it goes back together. i already have the blower spacer plates. hope this wakes up this Hippo of a truck.
I did several other things at the same time such as a new 416 stroker motor. The temperatures did drop even though I am spinning the blower more than before.
The Forced Induction Interchiller spacers come with longer bolts. They are shown in the other video on the channel when I do the unbox and overview of the spacers.
The taller spacer has more gains according to the Forced Induction Interchillers guys. The made the 10mm for the public and built a 20mm for their race car, and then some of the public found out about it and wanted it so they started selling them too. I am not sure if they have done back to back testing. I recommend getting the bigger one if you have the hood clearance.
It’s all good. They offer a 10mm lid spacer which might allow the installation of the strut tower brace. Remember, I also have a ZL1 lid on mine, so a CTSV lid might be shorter.
I was thinking of getting the same setup you have inly difference is i have the kong lid so i was thinking it could fit since its just a slight shorter@whiplashtv2022
Please keep making these videos. I got an Lsa and need to know how to do all this stuff. Awesome content my man
Thanks for the nice comment. I will do my best to keep them coming. Please share the channel with your friends.
Subscribed!!! Your videos are exactly the answers to what I’ve been trying to figure out before buying the parts. Thanks for being specific!
Thanks for subscribing! I am glad that you have found them helpful. Please feel free to share the channeland videos with others. I appreciate it.
nicely explained 👍 could you please tell me how many Newton meters the screws from the compressor and blower get? did you notice an extreme difference in the performance?
Lol, nah I don’t know about “Newton meters”, but the IAT2’s did go down around 7-10 degrees from what I was seeing previously. I now average IAT2 temps that are 7-9 degrees above the IAT temps. It use to run IAT2’s 15-20 degrees above the IAT temps. I posted a video of a driving review of this where I show the data during a 30min drive.
Did you ever get the strut tower brace to clear the lid?
No, I haven’t been running it and the car still drives great.
With the spacer and the lid spacer was you able to out the sway bar on and close the hood???
I am guessing that you mean strut tower bar and not it was not able to go back on. The aftermarket hood that I am running clear just fine. I am not running a front sway bar either though btw.
Was there any alignment issues when bolting the blower down. It’s just the bolts locating the blower right?
I ordered the thermal spacers, I’m just wondering while putting the blower down onto them that they could shift a bit and can’t see it and then when you bolt it down the plate could potentially block parts of the ports.
There were no alignment issues with the spacers at all. It installed properly and has been doing great for years.
Curious as well, swapping blower out. How to keep spacers in place while lowering charger? As they seem they would shift on install
The spacers are positioned by grooves in the center and alignment pins on the outer spacer piece.
So since you lifted the blower 10mm, did you have to get a longer blower belt?
Yes, and no a different blower belt was not needed.
@@whiplashtv2022 Thats awesome!
Yup
I have a 408 stroker and i have a 2.35 upper pulley & 9.55 lower pulley, ice tank and upgraded heat exchanger(dms). But i am still fighting with iats, ive been looking for solutions and wanted to know since i cant find any actual data for iats, how much would you say this method has dropped your iats?
I don’t have 1/4 mile data, but for daily driving, I would normally be 15-17 degrees above ambient temperature with a 2.5/9.6 pulley setup. I now have the spacers and a 2.38/9.6 pulley setup and my iats are 5-8 degrees above ambient temperature. The spacers and thermal blanket are definitely worth it.
did these upgrades help, i am thinking of adding them to my Escalade, i probably have enough room under hood. i have a bad lifter and hope it hasn't rounded the cam. i may need suggestions on a cam and the labor do you have any suggestions. thank you for your videos.
I will do my best to help you and I have a lot of videos here on this platform that will hopefully help you out as well. I try to go into detail on my videos and include part numbers. I did a driving review video and went into detail on how much my temps dropped and how it affected the temps. It definitely helps heat soak issues and recovery after a pull. I have yet to see 10 degrees over ambient while cruising and my blower is VERY overdriven. If you end up needing a cam, then you CAN’T go wrong with a RCR (Rick Crawford Racing) cam. Thanks for the comments and thanks for supporting the channel. Just let me know what you need or want to know.
i am ordering the 20mm lid and thermal blanket right now, figure if i have to take it off to fix bad lifter might as well put it on when it goes back together. i already have the blower spacer plates. hope this wakes up this Hippo of a truck.
With the lid spacer and the blower spacer do think u feel a difference in power
I did several other things at the same time such as a new 416 stroker motor. The temperatures did drop even though I am spinning the blower more than before.
so would u say It does it job keeping it cool
Yes, for sure
Are bolt lengths the same as OEM? Or you had to get different bolts for blower and lid?
The Forced Induction Interchiller spacers come with longer bolts. They are shown in the other video on the channel when I do the unbox and overview of the spacers.
Where did you get that oil cap breather?
The previous owner had it on the car already. It is a Metco breather.
Will the 20mm spacer for the blower and spacer for the bottom of the super charger fit oem hood?
From what I have heard the answer is no, it won’t fit under the stock hood. They do make a 10mm lid spacer.
Hi,
Why did you go the 20mm over the 10mm. Has any back to back testing been done over there? Thanks
The taller spacer has more gains according to the Forced Induction Interchillers guys. The made the 10mm for the public and built a 20mm for their race car, and then some of the public found out about it and wanted it so they started selling them too. I am not sure if they have done back to back testing. I recommend getting the bigger one if you have the hood clearance.
You have sliced the thermal blanket to seperate the blower from the snout..
Yes, I have taken care of the potential need to take the snout off while the blower is still on the car.
@@whiplashtv2022 Smart man
What Lifters You Running?
GM Performance LS7 lifters….not Delphi
Thanks for video on the install
You’re welcome
Hp gains ?
Yes, there are hp gains and that is covered in the video.
I see nevermind the question
It’s all good. They offer a 10mm lid spacer which might allow the installation of the strut tower brace. Remember, I also have a ZL1 lid on mine, so a CTSV lid might be shorter.
I was thinking of getting the same setup you have inly difference is i have the kong lid so i was thinking it could fit since its just a slight shorter@whiplashtv2022
@bigspoon34 yeah it might work with that lid