It’s amazing to have someone performing this level or craftsmanship on your vehicle. Glad you are videoing the journey and great having this record of work for the future. I would recommend anyone looking for quality work, to get in touch with Rob and save money wasted on poor repairs and masking problems. So happy the car is finally getting the treatment she needs and deserves and keep up the great videos.
Thank for saving just one more of these wonderful jewels. I've seen so many scraped over the years that should have been saved, it's heartbreaking. Back in the 70's aftermarket panels didn't exist....road salt here in Ontario Canada destroyed these cars in about 5 years unless you summer drove it only. I could barely afford one car at a time and drove mine year around. If Id only been able to store them for future restoration. Currently working on a nice Spitfire almost done but already planning my next project it will be an MG hopefully a GT.
Brilliant video filming and explanations. Very professional. Ignore other peoples comments about the music. In my opinion, not too loud and fits in well with your filming and commentary. I am restoring an Austin Sprite, and look to your work for inspiration. Well done !
Great vid. Wow. I've just started restoring a frogeye that has been the victim of multiple floor & sill bodges, considerable shunts both front and rear, rusty a pillars, and to top it all off the poor thing's a cut'n'shut with an albeit very neat weld seam literally right down the middle of the floor & sills. How rewarding that will be when I get a new, clean, straight floorpan in! I just hope mine is still the right length and didn't lose/gain any in the cut'n'shut operation... I will definitely be building a rotisserie for it!
great vid mate.You can get special bits for drilling spot welds(bet you already know)also i,ve seen a bloke who self tapped every thing together and then removed them one at atime and spot welded! i know it sounds crap but it worked well.Each to their own. Thanks
Very tidy work. However, when peeling back old panels, an air chisel is far faster, leaves a cleaner edge and leaves you less exposed to injury, provided you're wearing heavy gloves
Excellent. Thank You. The background music is so loud. One needs to lower the volume when it plays and then put it up to hear what is said - making the experience labor-intensive.
I solve that problem by selecting "auto captions" and muting the sound. That way i can read the informative bits while listening to Baroque harpsichord. :-)*
Very good work but perhaps a jig or rotisserie would be beneficial ( finance permitting) . This does remind me of the initial condition of my TR6! However, first visit and l've subscribed. Well done!
Hi John, thanks! Unfortunately I've had to close the workshop at the end of 2019, finance was never quite permitting! Hoping things will turn around one day, but for now its projects on my drive way :)
@@VisionAutoGarage l'm very sorry to hear this. Your not the first. I made the same error 25years ago it cost me everything but l do have restored cars that have gone worldwide. I now have the luxury of a double garage and the "6" is pretty close to colour although l still have an awful lot to do. Then l have my '66 2+2 to do . All this when l have finished the metalwork on my friends MK IX. This should have been finished by January but you know what rusty old buckets are like! Well, good luck for the future.
Really interesting video, im currently restoring an MGB GT and am starting to notice mine has had a similar fate as this one where previous owners have done some pretty bad repair jobs. Out of interest, how much would a job like this cost?
Hello. I have a 1963 Midget with rust similar to that in the video. Was the new floor pan received in one piece and if so from where can that be sourced ? Thanks
Another great video. A couple of questions, does the car need bracing in any way when the entire floor is removed, or is that only if the sills are removed? How many hours work go into this job?
Thanks! In my opinion there's no need to brace if the sills are in place. I regularly check the door gaps to be sure. As soon as you start working on sills though, bracing is essential. You obviously do need to take care with the floor off.
New Heritage shells are more than £10k these days, and even then, they're nowhere near perfect and need a degree of fettling. You can buy a fair bit of repaired original for that.
+Konrad C absolutely needs bracing if there is any work to the sills. You could get away with rolling without bracing if the body is sound, but any doubt and it should be well braced.
Another great video. I’m doing some work on my midget atm and have a few questions. After you removed the floor pan I could see that some of the flanges that were left looked a bit corroded. How to do you tidy them up before plug welding the new metal in? I struggle do get rid of the pitted rust without grinding the most of the flange away! Also what’s the tool you’re using to grind down the welds? These are really well put together videos and I look forward to the next one!
Hi Phil, thanks for watching! Yep, the flanges needed work in some areas. Where they were quite literally gone, I linished them back to the vertical plane, in this case the tunnel, and then made a strip the correct size and shape and weld it on. It's much easier done than explained! This one was gone around the curved section of the tunnel, passenger side. For all the solid flanges i linished them back using my Blue-point air grinder with a 60 grit disc. I use a combination of that and a grinder with grinding disc to take back the welds. Hope that helps!
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Watching this reminds me I need to build that rotisserie!
I keep returning to your videos always learning more, part way through a frogeye resto.
Cheers.
It’s amazing to have someone performing this level or craftsmanship on your vehicle.
Glad you are videoing the journey and great having this record of work for the future.
I would recommend anyone looking for quality work, to get in touch with Rob and save money wasted on poor repairs and masking problems. So happy the car is finally getting the treatment she needs and deserves and keep up the great videos.
Thank for saving just one more of these wonderful jewels. I've seen so many scraped over the years that should have been saved, it's heartbreaking. Back in the 70's aftermarket panels didn't exist....road salt here in Ontario Canada destroyed these cars in about 5 years unless you summer drove it only. I could barely afford one car at a time and drove mine year around. If Id only been able to store them for future restoration. Currently working on a nice Spitfire almost done but already planning my next project it will be an MG hopefully a GT.
Brilliant video filming and explanations. Very professional. Ignore other peoples comments about the music. In my opinion, not too loud and fits in well with your filming and commentary. I am restoring an Austin Sprite, and look to your work for inspiration. Well done !
Great video, thanks for the effort and expertise!
Great vid. Wow. I've just started restoring a frogeye that has been the victim of multiple floor & sill bodges, considerable shunts both front and rear, rusty a pillars, and to top it all off the poor thing's a cut'n'shut with an albeit very neat weld seam literally right down the middle of the floor & sills. How rewarding that will be when I get a new, clean, straight floorpan in! I just hope mine is still the right length and didn't lose/gain any in the cut'n'shut operation... I will definitely be building a rotisserie for it!
great vid mate.You can get special bits for drilling spot welds(bet you already know)also i,ve seen a bloke who self tapped every thing together and then removed them one at atime and spot welded! i know it sounds crap but it worked well.Each to their own.
Thanks
Very nice welding
Very tidy work. However, when peeling back old panels, an air chisel is far faster, leaves a cleaner edge and leaves you less exposed to injury, provided you're wearing heavy gloves
Excellent. Thank You.
The background music is so loud. One needs to lower the volume when it plays and then put it up to hear what is said - making the experience labor-intensive.
Hey Al, sorry the music isn't quite right - I do lower the level for voice overs in edit, but clearly not enough on this one.
I solve that problem by selecting "auto captions" and muting the sound. That way i can read the informative bits while listening to Baroque harpsichord. :-)*
Very good work but perhaps a jig or rotisserie would be beneficial ( finance permitting) . This does remind me of the initial condition of my TR6! However, first visit and l've subscribed. Well done!
Hi John, thanks! Unfortunately I've had to close the workshop at the end of 2019, finance was never quite permitting! Hoping things will turn around one day, but for now its projects on my drive way :)
@@VisionAutoGarage l'm very sorry to hear this. Your not the first. I made the same error 25years ago it cost me everything but l do have restored cars that have gone worldwide. I now have the luxury of a double garage and the "6" is pretty close to colour although l still have an awful lot to do. Then l have my '66 2+2 to do . All this when l have finished the metalwork on my friends MK IX. This should have been finished by January but you know what rusty old buckets are like! Well, good luck for the future.
Really interesting video, im currently restoring an MGB GT and am starting to notice mine has had a similar fate as this one where previous owners have done some pretty bad repair jobs. Out of interest, how much would a job like this cost?
Hello. I have a 1963 Midget with rust similar to that in the video. Was the new floor pan received in one piece and if so from where can that be sourced ?
Thanks
Hi, the floor comes as a one piece from Moss Europe.
Another great video.
A couple of questions, does the car need bracing in any way when the entire floor is removed, or is that only if the sills are removed?
How many hours work go into this job?
Thanks! In my opinion there's no need to brace if the sills are in place. I regularly check the door gaps to be sure. As soon as you start working on sills though, bracing is essential. You obviously do need to take care with the floor off.
hey what type of drills are you using to drill out spaot welds, I bought cobalt but they dull just after 5 spots. slow going any suggestions
Hi, i've used many different spot weld bits and HSS bits and have always ended up back with a Cobalt HSS bit and plenty of cutting fluid.
That's a lot of work! Is it more cost effective in labour to buy a new Heratige shell instead?
New Heritage shells are more than £10k these days, and even then, they're nowhere near perfect and need a degree of fettling. You can buy a fair bit of repaired original for that.
Emma nailed it, its more than double the cost of this project to get just a heritage shell, which would need work and paint.
Dying to know your mig wire size, feed and temp setting and what gas you use. I fail miserably on very thin metal.
+Bruce Booher 0.6mm wire, 15% Argon/CO2 mix. Amps and wire feed by feel rather than a specific number.
is the body strong enough to roll without twisting it? Or is there bracing that im missing?
+Konrad C absolutely needs bracing if there is any work to the sills. You could get away with rolling without bracing if the body is sound, but any doubt and it should be well braced.
Another great video. I’m doing some work on my midget atm and have a few questions. After you removed the floor pan I could see that some of the flanges that were left looked a bit corroded. How to do you tidy them up before plug welding the new metal in? I struggle do get rid of the pitted rust without grinding the most of the flange away! Also what’s the tool you’re using to grind down the welds? These are really well put together videos and I look forward to the next one!
Hi Phil, thanks for watching! Yep, the flanges needed work in some areas. Where they were quite literally gone, I linished them back to the vertical plane, in this case the tunnel, and then made a strip the correct size and shape and weld it on. It's much easier done than explained! This one was gone around the curved section of the tunnel, passenger side. For all the solid flanges i linished them back using my Blue-point air grinder with a 60 grit disc. I use a combination of that and a grinder with grinding disc to take back the welds. Hope that helps!
Thanks mate. Really helpful!
You fixed a ghastly concatenation of bodges there.
it looks as though these cars lacked any attempt at rust prevention during assembly.
I would love to do this my 73. We travel the country and camp out of ours. Check out our adventures @ glennandjaneadventures .com or RUclips cheers!
Very difficult to watch this video with the back ground music. Do you realise how annoying it is to someone with hearing difficulties.
John Tranby have you tried it on mute with subtitles?
Don't need the terrible background music. Unwatchable for me.
There’s always mute, or make your own video, or just don’t watch…unless you’re being forced to, in which case not much can be done 🤷🏻♂️👋🏼
wouldn't it be cheaper to find a rust free one? These cars aren't worth that much even restored.
peter you’re probably watching the wrong channel.