My Next Dinghy Build Details Exposed
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this video I will take you through in detail which dinghy I'm going to build next. I'll talk about Specifications, Specs and materials, Construction, methods, Plywood and lumber choice, Build Cost, Utility, Performance & expectations and Roof rack loading.
Th OZ Goose won the 2nd shootout and the final to emerge as the best cartoppable dinghy for my needs...by miles. So let's have a look at how I plan to engage this build.
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I think people don't understand that a planing tilted (15-20 degrees) oz goose has a very reasonable cross section sliding along the waterline, maybe you can illustrate it for the people that don't get that part. Yes when it's flat it's a cabinet. But if it heels it's suddenly a good hull.
I got one. And this is still my first boat. I had two capsizes in summer 2023. One of them could cost me a life. I'm new in sailing, but overall my experience showed that it is a very tricky boat for solo sailing in tough conditions.
I'm glad you are OK.
The Goose is very likely the most stable lightweight skiff you will find. And like any other lightweight boat it relies on crew's weight to keep it upright. when it gets too rough you should reef the sail early, otherwise you will capsize.
If you were in trouble you should be thankful you had a Goose as a first boat as most other boats would have been near impossible to self rescue.
Have fun and stay safe. 😉
I nearly sank a Catalina 22 with my wife and kids aboard. That’s considered almost impossible, even for rookies. My suggestion, learn from the experience, don’t blame the boat.
In Australia, we always root (barrack) for the underdog. The OzGoose is easy to be underestimated with its boxy lines. I would love to see you outperform the traditional boats in it. :-)
Hi,
Well I can surely try! 😁
I like the simplicity of the Oz Goose.
Re. Timber, you say Poplar, but on screen, the text says Paulownia, which is a very different tree, and not as far as I know grown for its timber, more common as an ornamental tree.
Poplar has the botanical name of Populus, not Paulownia. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Good luck with the build.
Nick.
Hi Nicholas,
Poplar is commonly used to make plywood although not that rot resistant.
Paulownia is grown for timber.
The Oz Goose build is almost done and I used mainly Paulownia.
Cheers,
Teo
So your OZ Goose will be The PortuGoose!
AHAHA great name! 😁
I wouldn't be my first choice, but i am very happy to tag along on the build journey!
Well my first choice was my GIS 4 years ago! 😁😁
@@TheBoatRambler Surely, they will both fill their particular niche -- the selection process videos have been great, and looking forward to the build. I bet you make converts to "the floating wardrobe" 😄
Thanks!
Thank you very much Jeff! 😉
Cant wait to see it
By the end of the week, I hope the build will be financed by our coffee money !
😁 🤞🤞 Thanks a lot for the extra caffeine! 😁
I wonder what the flat bow and broad beam will be like in the sharp Tagus chop you were talking about, with regards to the high freeboard requirement.
They sail in some chop in the Philippines too. But I guess I'll know once I try it! 😁
Can’t wait to see it all happen
....next week! 😉
Viva Portugal ! Awesome channel thanks, obrigado
Obrigado!
Abraço
This really remarkable design reminds me strongly at a Dutch wooden shoe 😈 Nevertheless the qualities of the boat are great. Good luck with building it. 😁
Thanks Gerald! 😉
Except a clog is more streamlined 😂
Thanks!
Thank you Keny! 😉
I'm very curious to follow this build. The OzGoose is an unorthodox choice, yet seems quite capable. It looks odd and that's a turnoff for people, but I bet with a sexy paintjob you can really give it some style!
Thanks David.
i always liked the goose design. there need to be more boats designed that can be car-topped.
Hi Rob,
Indeed, maybe one day I design a cartoppable boat of my own!😁
For my canoe (much longer) I extend the roof rails and have a bar across the back of the car. Then I just lift one end on and slide it on. It is easier than side loading as you only lift half of the weight and it’s a longer distance from the fulcrum.
Would love to see a video of that. Cheers
Thanks Ricky!
That is how I do it too. Then you are just lifting one end. But, even a heavy canoe is lighter than this sail boat, and, it is longer so the center of mass is further from the front (or which end you lift from), and canoes are narrow and pretty easy to flip over to the gunnels, so we'll see how he gets it up.
I have a folding boat which is too heavy for me to lift onto the roof bars safely, ie without damage to me and/or paintwork. So I lash an oar to the rear roof bar, extending it by 18", then lean the folded boat against it and use it as a fulcrum when lifting the other end onto the front roof bar. Slide to a comfortable position and untie the oar.
have you considered also Voiles V448 and ROG 15? Really nice skiffs
Yes I did. The Viola is to small for 3 ppl and the V448 and ROG are too heavy to cartop.
Interesting. Good luck! A friend of mine has a special roof rack that allows him to lift boats on his roof.
Hi Ben, I hope I can build a cool roof rack too! 😁
@@TheBoatRambler His was bought but was £400 new. He got it second hand though for a lot less.
Thanks
I learned where you are from in this one. I've always wondered where you were from, i was imagining south America. You ought to see about OZ Goose sponsorship as I believe you are about to sell quite a few people on this design.
Hi Isaac!
Believe it or not I am quite happy just knowing people are getting into sailing or boatbuilding by watching my videos!💙
Using epoxy means that some small risks can be taken when building. Having accepted your reasoning for using birch for the Goat, it would be very interesting to make a real effort regarding weight with the Goose.
How much weight would be saved by putting a ‘pencil round’ on the open edges of all the timber framing? It is something that Michael never seemed to do on the Philippine builds, presumably because they are out of sight.
Similarly, how much timber could be removed in the form of a pencil round, without compromising the strength of the joint?
Most of the weight is in the plywood, so perhaps Gaboon, as a lighter timber, would be a good choice if available, although it is a lot more expensive. In a more extreme case, how about using 4mm for the forward section of hull ply, and 6mm for the cockpit floor? The mast foot would act as a stiffener.
It should be possible to lower the front deck corners, in the form of curving the foredeck: not a lot of weight saving, but it might soften the looks a bit.
Maybe there are other weight saving ideas out there?
I think this is going to be very interesting, and am looking forward to the build, enormously.
Hi Andy, Thanks for the feedback!
I will indeed use 4mm plywood for everything on the boat other than the bottom and maybe the transom.
I might be looking at reducing the stringers too since usually the fillet is 3x the plywood thickness, so instead of 19mm I'll use 12mm for the 4mm plywood joints.
I think there where a few comments on the first video about the goose being the one.
I was hoping the Goose would not win, but had a feeling a few videos in that it would.
I think I am starting to like it and if I had the time I would try building one...who knows it may happen.
Currently have 2 water ready Sunfish and 1 more to do a little work on and a Nacra 5.0 to patch up.
Very excited to follow along as you build the Goose.
Thank you for all the Great videos!
After I build it you can rest assured that I will try her out in all sorts of conditions and activities!
Hope I'll enjoy it at least as much as I did with my GIS! 😉
My list of requirements are very similar (if not identical) to yours. So thank you for documenting the decision making process.
One extra consideration I have, is the waves that form on Port Phillip Bay where sail. It get very choppy once the wind is over 12kts. Given the boxy shape, how do you think the Goose would sail in choppy conditions?
I expect the boat to be ok. Once heeled a bit the hard chine creates some sort of "v" shaped hull and waves won't come dead on anyways, maybe 40 degrees to the bow. But it won't be a silent boat for sure, just as the GIS isn't a quiet boat either.
I watched your shootout videos and enjoyed them very much, thank you. I look forward to following along as you build the Goose, which I’m sure will become more and more beautiful to all of us as you build it and sail it. Question: if you included the additional criteria of rowing to your list (excluding outrigger designs) is there anything that immediately stands out?
The GIS would be the choice I think. It rows really well too. Would need to make it light to be cartoppable tho.
Or the Jimmy skiff 2...
Ever look at Vivier boats? I'm currently building a 18 ft gaffrig one....Tejo is wonderful for sailing!
The Tejo is a very nice place to sail but also very tricky! From Vasco da Gama bridge to the sea it has strong currents and it can throw some heavy chop in places, even in calmer days.
Good luck, Teo. BTW, I have no inclination or desire to constantly convert imperial measurements to metric, having work only with metric units for the past 60-odd years. Looking forward to the build. Força, amigo!
Hi Ray,
If it's just to have an idea of size, I usually just make quick approximations like multiplying by 3 for feet or 2.5 for inches. halves and quarters are straight forward to. I can't build anything using Imperial tho!
Exited about this!
Thanks so much Teo. Btw I couldn’t help noticing that you were describing the materials in imperial mostly. I assume there’s a lot of US audience that you’re trying to make this easier for. Anyway, what about putting up the metric equivalents in text as you’re saying the measurement next video. That’s how a lot of woodworking RUclips makers approach this problem. What you did I understand the reason for, and many of us are pretty good in imperial or metric. But there might be some guys who only work in metric. As an example my kids are both about 30 (vs me 65). My early school years were all imperial; then Australia went metric. So it’s all good for me, but my kids have no idea at all of a foot an inch and even less of fractions of an inch.
Just a suggestion. It’s a great video anyway.
I’m also very interested in your car topping solution. Most of those you showed I’ve seen. The electric winch version is brilliant but honestly could cost more than the boat. They are pretty common here (I noticed what looked like a typical Aussie car) and brilliant for car topping Aluminium tinnies with fishing gear and outboard motor. But for a Goose? I’d say overkill and too expensive for the required use. I’m sure that a low tech solution will do fine.
Best of luck and thanks again mate.
Hi buddy!
USA, UK, AUS and CA make for just over 50% of my audience so it's not that much of a difference atm.
I might start a pole to see which system I should use!
As for the loading contraption...ofc I'll build my own, cheap! 😅
@@TheBoatRambler so are your viewers roughly even European and us (mainly English speaking world )? Hey it will grow.
The loading device. A former neighbor of mine developed boat hoist which one of the videos showed. As I said it’s great, especially for heavy weights. A lot of guys (like us) go camping way off the beaten track and tow a trailer and have their boat on top of a really high roof. Impossible for any normal bloke to stretch up there, definitely not above your head, with at least a 15HP outboard clamped on and often on his own. Just impossible.
However, that’s not your situation and it’s not going to be mine either. I’ll be watching closely to see what you use. What car will you/your father be using?
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Teo
after 3 years of YT my audience is:
United States 25.90%, United Kingdom 7.20%, Australia 8.10%, Canada 4.20%, Russia 2.90%, Germany 3.00%, France2.70%, Brazil 2.60%, New Zealand 2.10%, Netherlands 2.00%, Italy 1.20%, Spain 1.30%, Portugal 1.70%, Poland 0.90%, Japan 0.80%, Greece 1.00%, Sweden 1.10%, Türkiye 0.70%, South Africa 0.90%, Argentina 0.80%, Thailand 0.60%, Denmark 0.40%, Finland 0.40%, Ireland 0.40%, Hungary 0.40%, Norway0.30%, Philippines 0.40%, Switzerland 0.30%, Indonesia 0.30%, Ukraine 0.20%, Austria 0.10%, Czechia 0.20%, Belgium 0.20%, South Korea 0.10%,Croatia 0.10%, Malaysia 0.10%, Romania 0.10%, Mexico 0.10%, Serbia 0.10%, Bahamas 0.10%, and Taiwan, Slovakia, Chile, Belarus, Réunion, Faroe Islands, Lithuania, Bulgaria, Slovenia with less than 1%.
Please, allow me to suggest checking out Meranti for the stringers and Douglas Flir (or Oregon pine as it is mostly known in Europe) for the spars. Both are much "better" woods and easier to work with if you can find the right pieces, and , at least in Greece, the price penalty is not too much especially for such a small quantity.
For my Goat I used Meranti for the ribs and the rails as I got it for zero. It's hard and nice but remarkable heavier than softwood - and not needed at the most places on the boat.
Thanks I'll have a look! 😉
You should make that shirt! 😆
😁
I hope you may add some design mods, look forward to hearing about it. I always wondered if the bow of the goose can be narrowed or tapered a bit for esthetics as well as for reduced wave slap and better ability into the chop? Thank you, excited to watch.
PS personally i was wondering if the design may benefit from adding a catamaran-like profile to the bow, with two little cone-like "pyramids" that can cut oncoming waves better? 🔼🔼
Hi,
I will sail the Goose for one season without major modifications to the hull.
After that, if I think it's worth changing something I will! 😉
I have always used mahogany ply, It is bomb proof does have several disadvantages it is heavy' expensive and very difficult to source Thirty years ago when I moved into my present home my next door neighbor presented me with a punt he had built several years before to go fishing very similar to the Oz goose with more beam, approx five by ten .However I quickly discovered that though the outer veneers were good the internal poplar core had rotted out and the Punt was no longer safe to use sorry to say it went onto the Bonfire..
Hi David!
Well let's hope the epoxy encapsulation of the plywood and a good 2 pot Hempel paint can make it last maybe a decade! 🤞
@@TheBoatRamblertry penetrating epoxy on the cut edges of the ply.
What is the total estimated cost of the entire build including: sails, hardware, lines, plans, epoxy, wood, mast, boom.....everything?
That is a good question! I believe I might be able to finish the hull at around €1000, for the sail €600 and then it all depends how I rig it. it can be done really cheap or if I use 8:1 downhaul, outhauls etc it will be way more expensive.
Thank you very much. I did my own total based on online prices, and I came to $1500 - $1800 USD.
I think the Oz goose is cool. I'm building two goats then I'm going to build a caledonia yawl
💪💪💪
are you selling the Goat ? or keeping both of them?
I will be keeping them both for a while. At least until I can design my own skiff. Then I might sell one of them to build the next one! 😁
i have the book: "Principals of Yacht Design" it covers a lot of territory, but it's not too much to comb over, for different applications...i could hope i have my 7 Meter yacht design overview video done this winter....but it's more about learning how to work a video editor. @@TheBoatRambler
stop talking in inches!!!
Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you!