This build series is going to become the definitive reference when building the Oz Goose . These are entertaining as well as very informative .Good luck on the build and the channel. I have a set of plans and will soon be compiling the materials to build my own .
@@franogracin2326 it's 4.78 x 4, but you should be able to build it on a 4.5 x 2.5 , just start by making the smaller parts like foils, spars etc and leave the hull for last. That's what I did when i built the GIS which is only 1 inch shorter than my workshop.
Greetings from Cornwall England. I am a novice when it comes to boat building, I'm finding this series really interesting and informative. Can't wait for the next one. Cheers
Greetings again from the Isle of Wight, UK, Teo ...We are all watching and learning, and looking forward to seeing you sail it. Very entertaining and informative videos 👍
HI, Poly would be ok for the non structural joints but it's a "no go" for me when it comes to wooden boat building. The bonding with the wood relies solely on mechanical adhesion contrary to epoxy which has a different molecular structure and makes a much more durable bond. Poly is known to delaminate/separate from plywood hulls after some time. But by all means if it's all you can afford... build the boat! It's only a cheap boat anyway. You will at least be sailing for a few years! 😉
It's funny how even building the smallest boat will dwarf the size of any workshop. Things always take more space than they should :D Especially with the c clamps. Very interesting to see the butt joint used, i was initially expecting that to be a scarf joint instead when i saw the boat pictures from elsewhere.
i forgot to mention, i scaled up my molded hull design to almost 5 meters, and almost 2 meter beam .. so not car-top-able anymore, i just wanted to make the best skiff of this design that i could, and that was making the spar hub as high off the deck as most people can reach. ( the axle is also now 2 meters up off the deck )
Pro tip..... if you cut 2 small slots in the epoxy roller sleeve on the inside edge ,only slide the sleeve most of the way on when rolling it out , then slide the sleeve all the way on to align the slots with the handle it locks the sleeve and stops it turning so no need to hold with 2 hands and it's faster and more accurate... it'll save you a few hours in a day and costs nothing ... have a good day all....... jb.
The cost of the build might be greater if you have to factor in purchasing that many clamps. You can never have enough clamps! Gunwales were the last thing to go on my build so it looks odd to see you put them on so early. Obviously not the boat I built.
Hi Rob, You can just use temporary screws to hold it in place while it cures. Also the grip clamps in the video cost about 50c each, you can grab 50 clamps for €25...I should buy more of those 😁 You can also make "c" clamps using pvc pipe. On this build all timber framing is glued earlier on including the gunwales. It helps keeping the thin panels straight for gluing purposes too.
I have spent 1.8Kg on the build so far. That includes framing and coating. I have only applied one coat on surfaces which will not be exposed to water nor UVs. The plans call for 3 coats everywhere, that would add about another 600g. All weekly totals for materials are shown at the end of the video.
Do you have any tips for avoiding bubbling in the epoxy? I'm working on a new hatch for my boat. I have some plywood I've painted with teak-coloured wood stain for looks. My plan has been to epoxy it for water resistance, then varnish over that. But I did a small test piece and the epoxy bubbled up a lot, so that even after sanding it well before varnish, it looked pretty terrible with pock-marks after varnishing.
@@TheBoatRambler Yes. I suppose the bubbling could be from the stain outgassing? But I did give it a day or two after staining before I applied the epoxy.
It can be that the epoxy wont soak in properly due to the stain, or there could be some incompatibility between the two products. How did you apply it? if using a foam roller , dragging the roller as soon as you finish spreading the epoxy will also brake bobbles that formed on the surface. Also if you use slower hardener it helps letting the mixed epoxy sit for 10 minutes so the bobbles in the mix rise.
@@TheBoatRambler I got some opinions from other people recently. The stain I used should be ok (it was "spirit stain" that should be ok to epoxy over after a day or so of drying, after the solvent evaporates). But I did not use a fresh painbrush to apply the stain, but rather one I used before (and washed like I would a brush for paint). It's possible the brush imparted some oils onto the surface that the epoxy did not want to bond with. As for the surface, I tried sanding the epoxy down, but it got so tedious I decided to scrap the part and buy a new piece of plywood to start from scratch.
This build series is going to become the definitive reference when building the Oz Goose . These are entertaining as well as very informative .Good luck on the build and the channel. I have a set of plans and will soon be compiling the materials to build my own .
Thanks David and congratz on the decision to build a boat, it's awesome! 😉
It's a small shop, but having doors at both ends makes it infinite sized! Great build so far!
That's true! I can extend it by at least 2 meter with the swinging gate acting as a roof. 😉
@@TheBoatRambler how big is your workshop? I might need to rent one to build the goose. :) thanks for the videos and good luck from Croatia :)
@@franogracin2326 it's 4.78 x 4, but you should be able to build it on a 4.5 x 2.5 , just start by making the smaller parts like foils, spars etc and leave the hull for last. That's what I did when i built the GIS which is only 1 inch shorter than my workshop.
Greetings from Cornwall England. I am a novice when it comes to boat building, I'm finding this series really interesting and informative. Can't wait for the next one. Cheers
Glad you enjoy it! 😉
Greetings again from the Isle of Wight, UK, Teo ...We are all watching and learning, and looking forward to seeing you sail it. Very entertaining and informative videos 👍
Thanks Paul 👍
Polyester resin sets as quick as it is cheaper than epoxy and UV stable. Always worth a lookin especially for your scarfs.
HI,
Poly would be ok for the non structural joints but it's a "no go" for me when it comes to wooden boat building.
The bonding with the wood relies solely on mechanical adhesion contrary to epoxy which has a different molecular structure and makes a much more durable bond. Poly is known to delaminate/separate from plywood hulls after some time.
But by all means if it's all you can afford... build the boat! It's only a cheap boat anyway. You will at least be sailing for a few years! 😉
@@TheBoatRamblerI learned something new today then !! Also easier to use poly here in Birkenhead where it's always feckin freezing 😆
It's funny how even building the smallest boat will dwarf the size of any workshop. Things always take more space than they should :D Especially with the c clamps. Very interesting to see the butt joint used, i was initially expecting that to be a scarf joint instead when i saw the boat pictures from elsewhere.
It's the same method as used on my GIS. If done correctly they are strong enough and quick to make! 😉
Hi Teo,
Great job !
Thanks Christophe!
Nice work looking forward to it taking shape!
Thanks Ben👍
Great work!!
Thanks a lot Marcus!
More places to use a drywall T Square LOL!
I might get one for the next build! 😁
Love it!
Thanks!!
i think super glue is somewhat soluble in water.
that's what i was told, but ok if you need to seal those areas anyway.
Hi Eric,
The scarf will be glued to the plywood on two sides. the Superglue could disappear and it wouldn't matter at all. 😉
i just started on the rudder mechanism yesterday. ( for my molded skiff design )
i hope to upload within a week.@@TheBoatRambler
i forgot to mention, i scaled up my molded hull design to almost 5 meters, and almost 2 meter beam .. so not car-top-able anymore,
i just wanted to make the best skiff of this design that i could,
and that was making the spar hub as high off the deck as most people can reach. ( the axle is also now 2 meters up off the deck )
Pro tip..... if you cut 2 small slots in the epoxy roller sleeve on the inside edge ,only slide the sleeve most of the way on when rolling it out , then slide the sleeve all the way on to align the slots with the handle it locks the sleeve and stops it turning so no need to hold with 2 hands and it's faster and more accurate... it'll save you a few hours in a day and costs nothing ... have a good day all....... jb.
Thanks John!! great tip! 😉
Glad it is not structural because superglue weakens over time. Approximately after 2 years it only has about 20% of its original strength.
Hi Anthony,
the scarfs will be glued to the plywood with epoxy on two faces later. The glue could evaporate completely and it wouldn't matter. 😉
The cost of the build might be greater if you have to factor in purchasing that many clamps. You can never have enough clamps! Gunwales were the last thing to go on my build so it looks odd to see you put them on so early. Obviously not the boat I built.
Hi Rob,
You can just use temporary screws to hold it in place while it cures. Also the grip clamps in the video cost about 50c each, you can grab 50 clamps for €25...I should buy more of those 😁 You can also make "c" clamps using pvc pipe.
On this build all timber framing is glued earlier on including the gunwales. It helps keeping the thin panels straight for gluing purposes too.
How much epoxy did you spend after precoating everything?
I have spent 1.8Kg on the build so far. That includes framing and coating.
I have only applied one coat on surfaces which will not be exposed to water nor UVs. The plans call for 3 coats everywhere, that would add about another 600g.
All weekly totals for materials are shown at the end of the video.
@@TheBoatRambler great, thanks! keep up the good work!
PS: I still haven't coated the decks!
Do you have any tips for avoiding bubbling in the epoxy? I'm working on a new hatch for my boat. I have some plywood I've painted with teak-coloured wood stain for looks. My plan has been to epoxy it for water resistance, then varnish over that. But I did a small test piece and the epoxy bubbled up a lot, so that even after sanding it well before varnish, it looked pretty terrible with pock-marks after varnishing.
Are you applying epoxy over the stained plywood?
@@TheBoatRambler Yes. I suppose the bubbling could be from the stain outgassing? But I did give it a day or two after staining before I applied the epoxy.
It can be that the epoxy wont soak in properly due to the stain, or there could be some incompatibility between the two products. How did you apply it? if using a foam roller , dragging the roller as soon as you finish spreading the epoxy will also brake bobbles that formed on the surface.
Also if you use slower hardener it helps letting the mixed epoxy sit for 10 minutes so the bobbles in the mix rise.
@@TheBoatRambler I got some opinions from other people recently. The stain I used should be ok (it was "spirit stain" that should be ok to epoxy over after a day or so of drying, after the solvent evaporates). But I did not use a fresh painbrush to apply the stain, but rather one I used before (and washed like I would a brush for paint). It's possible the brush imparted some oils onto the surface that the epoxy did not want to bond with.
As for the surface, I tried sanding the epoxy down, but it got so tedious I decided to scrap the part and buy a new piece of plywood to start from scratch.
@@OlliWilkman sometimes the best option is just that...start from scratch again! 😅