No i did it do the wet test because I put new piston rings and cylinder and head well the hole top end but you would probably laugh at me the problem was something to do with spark it was like I was not getting enough spark well Joe it was my spark plug wire the hole dam time dam I even bought a hole new top end for it for Nothing and replaced the carburetor sounds amazing now so I'm into it for about 400 hundred bucks now I bought the hole topend on e bay used but new o well the bike now has a hole new topend as a spare thanks Joe
Thanks! This is more fun than turning wrenches at that horrible place we won't mention... Check it out- I have a full channel, almost 120 videos and growing! Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the question! It helps to have a good compression tester, not to determine that you have any compression but to help find where the failure in the combustion chamber has occurred. I didn't have an adapter for mine but it would have helped. With the compression tester installed, open the throttle and kick over the bike several times until the needle stops moving (even if the number is very low) Next add a tablespoon or two of motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and , using the kick start, or starter crank the engine over a few times to allow the oil to work into the rings. Then do another compression test. This is called a 'wet' test. If the compression improves afterwards, then the rings are most likely the issue. If there is no change, then suspect a bent or burnt valve or a blown head gasket. A leak down test introduces shop air into the cylinder. If you have access to one, attach it as you would a compression tester. The idea of the leak down tester (or adding shop air to the cylinder) is to listen to where is escaping from the cylinder. To perform the test accurately, the piston needs to be at top dead center in the firing position, where the cylinder/combustion chamber is totally sealed. Then listen to where the air is leaking out from... The intake or carburetor, indicates a damaged intake valve, noise from the exhaust indicates a damaged exhaust valve. Soapy water can be sprayed around the head gasket area, checking for bubbles around the head gasket. Last, if noise is coming from the crank case (oil filler cap) then the rings are in question. On the 100, the leak was very low. Without having a leak down tester, I removed the head to inspect the valves. By pouring break clean, or any light oil, down the intake and then exhaust ports, you can monitor the faces of the valves to see if any fluid is leaking out. This is evident when a little fluid stain appears from the edge of the valve, or drips are observed. Let me know if this helps out, and let me know i you have any other questions! Thank You!
@@jaylanecreations5503 Idk if it helped chavo7753 but help me a lot. I have a 2007 crf100f with 125 psi compression (should be 171) and doesn't know where to start. Well explained, thanks man. 🤘
Yes sounds amazing its a zongshen 190cc made in China dirt bike rxf200 freeride trying to find a 4 barrel head for it they sale them but for 1100 hundred dollars way too much
Only things that would cause it... Bad rings/ damaged piston broken or bent valves cracked cylinder or head Blown head gasket.... Most probable are the rings or a bent valve Run a dry compression test, then a wettest...meaning add fluid to seal the rings... I usually use transmission fluid (automotive atf) 2 - 3 teaspoons, add through the spark plug hole... slowly work the kick start, allowing the trans fluid to work into the rings... repeat compression test... if compression improves...rings are bad... no change.... probably valves... A leak down test would help pin point...
Its crazy cuz I really thought my valves where mess up so I order a hole new head and cylinder but when I took off the Old head it looked good I did the valve leak test and fuck it passed the time was put on top dead center t mark valves where rights with timing I adjusted the valves 003 too 005 ex and nothing carburetor I took aprt and clean all thr jets And still nothing it has spark of curse man I confuse at this point
take out the spark plug and see if that makes any difference... keep the rear tire off the ground...try to put it into neutral.... make sure nothing is locked up eternally.... After all that, loosen the jug and see if things 'free up'
I have a question for you, my friend. I have one (honda crf 100f) and I paid to have it fixed, but I never finish the job, I want to know how I put it in time and the piston has a side that says (in) and I want to know which side the (in) goes to. Thanks I hope you can help me
Hi, I have 2 xr engines (100 w 120kit and 80cc) that arent starting. They both make 151 psi. Have you ever had this problem of slightly low compression before?
150 should kick it off.... check for spark, spark (and cam) timing, and that you are getting fuel... You can add a tbsp of oil into the cylinder and do another compression test, then try and kick it 0ff again (note-sometimes it works, sometimes it fowls plugs) Quick way to check for fuel...spray some good quality brake clean into the carb and see if it grabs
@@jaylanecreations5503 Thanks so much for the reply! I havnt tried the 80 yet but really glad to know it should start I kept trying the xr with the 120 kit with a couple different spark plugs and the one i used last fall, which looked pretty blacj when I took it out. the other plug i tried said CHS7 instead of CHS7A, and I got it in the parts bin of the xr80 I bought but it looks new. I made sure they were gapped right and made sure the carb was getting gas (The gas may actually be quite old, I’m going to get new gas tomorrow). I took the engine out and checked the timing and clearances and they both seemed to be good. Last fall I noticed the bike (without the 120 kit just a 100) was losing power, so thats why I just decided to just upgrade to the 120 because I had already invested a good amount in the bike. I believe the bikes electrical system is stock and 32 years old, so that could be the problem, but last fall it had spark. I was planning on taking the head off and checking the valves too. Thanks so much, any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
@@2smoke383 without seeing the bike its hard to tell, plus upgrading without addressing the initial issues can compound problems. No worries though, I have been in worse situations. At this point start from th beginning, work through the middle and stop at the end...little bites. Confirm compression, confirm spark and spark timing and then go after the fuel system, making sure that each part is up to spec before goin to the next. At a guess it sounds like a carb issue, but make sure your foundation is strong first! Keep me posted
it could be loading up on fuel....valves, carb not adjusted correctly, timing.... go back to basics, I have eliminated fuel/carb issues with supplementing fuel through a spray, eliminating the carb circuits.... keep the fuel turned off, carb cleaner or brake clean sprayed into the carb.... see if it grabs and runs... don't spray too much
Oh my back I see the new piston now good job sir 👌
No i did it do the wet test because I put new piston rings and cylinder and head well the hole top end but you would probably laugh at me the problem was something to do with spark it was like I was not getting enough spark well Joe it was my spark plug wire the hole dam time dam I even bought a hole new top end for it for Nothing and replaced the carburetor sounds amazing now so I'm into it for about 400 hundred bucks now I bought the hole topend on e bay used but new o well the bike now has a hole new topend as a spare thanks Joe
Chalk it up to 'Educational Expenses"
That's what I do when i encounter the same thing. Glad you got it going!
Good stuff jay!
Thanks! This is more fun than turning wrenches at that horrible place we won't mention...
Check it out- I have a full channel, almost 120 videos and growing! Glad you enjoyed it!
I have a feeling my xr80r is going to need this kind of work I was riding it and it shut off hasn't started since
I have a Honda cr100 2003 and no compression. I need to learn what you just did but what parts should I buy. Where do I start?
Thanks for the question!
It helps to have a good compression tester, not to determine that you have any compression but to help find where the failure in the combustion chamber has occurred.
I didn't have an adapter for mine but it would have helped.
With the compression tester installed, open the throttle and kick over the bike several times until the needle stops moving (even if the number is very low)
Next add a tablespoon or two of motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and , using the kick start, or starter crank the engine over a few times to allow the oil to work into the rings. Then do another compression test.
This is called a 'wet' test.
If the compression improves afterwards, then the rings are most likely the issue.
If there is no change, then suspect a bent or burnt valve or a blown head gasket.
A leak down test introduces shop air into the cylinder. If you have access to one, attach it as you would a compression tester.
The idea of the leak down tester (or adding shop air to the cylinder) is to listen to where is escaping from the cylinder. To perform the test accurately, the piston needs to be at top dead center in the firing position, where the cylinder/combustion chamber is totally sealed.
Then listen to where the air is leaking out from...
The intake or carburetor, indicates a damaged intake valve, noise from the exhaust indicates a damaged exhaust valve.
Soapy water can be sprayed around the head gasket area, checking for bubbles around the head gasket.
Last, if noise is coming from the crank case (oil filler cap) then the rings are in question.
On the 100, the leak was very low. Without having a leak down tester, I removed the head to inspect the valves.
By pouring break clean, or any light oil, down the intake and then exhaust ports, you can monitor the faces of the valves to see if any fluid is leaking out. This is evident when a little fluid stain appears from the edge of the valve, or drips are observed.
Let me know if this helps out, and let me know i you have any other questions!
Thank You!
@@jaylanecreations5503 Idk if it helped chavo7753 but help me a lot. I have a 2007 crf100f with 125 psi compression (should be 171) and doesn't know where to start. Well explained, thanks man. 🤘
Why did you only replace one valve should have done both while in there also never seen you torque bolts any reason for that
Gotta see you riding wheelies with that thing...
Stay posted and see! LMAO!
Doing the same thing to my bike have to
Check valves and gap them seems like there no play at all on the valves so need
To gap them to spec
Better to be too loose than too tight, but adjust them to spec
The old wizard has done it again lol 😆 😂 🤣 na just fooling around good job doe 👏 👍
Yes sounds amazing its a zongshen 190cc made in China dirt bike rxf200 freeride trying to find a 4 barrel head for it they sale them but for 1100 hundred dollars way too much
I got an 2001 XR200R Honda and when I kick it over it has zero compression would you know what it would be
Only things that would cause it...
Bad rings/ damaged piston
broken or bent valves
cracked cylinder or head
Blown head gasket....
Most probable are the rings or a bent valve
Run a dry compression test, then a wettest...meaning add fluid to seal the rings...
I usually use transmission fluid (automotive atf)
2 - 3 teaspoons, add through the spark plug hole...
slowly work the kick start, allowing the trans fluid to work into the rings...
repeat compression test...
if compression improves...rings are bad...
no change.... probably valves...
A leak down test would help pin point...
Its crazy cuz I really thought my valves where mess up so I order a hole new head and cylinder but when I took off the
Old head it looked good I did the valve leak test and fuck it passed the time was put on top dead center t mark valves where rights with timing I adjusted the valves 003 too 005 ex and nothing carburetor I took aprt and clean all thr jets And still nothing it has spark of curse man I confuse at this point
did you do a dry and a wet compression test, to eliminate bad rings?
Figure it out?
I have a xr100 the kick start is stuck think I blew the meter what do I do
take out the spark plug and see if that makes any difference... keep the rear tire off the ground...try to put it into neutral.... make sure nothing is locked up eternally....
After all that, loosen the jug and see if things 'free up'
I have a question for you, my friend. I have one (honda crf 100f) and I paid to have it fixed, but I never finish the job, I want to know how I put it in time and the piston has a side that says (in) and I want to know which side the (in) goes to. Thanks I hope you can help me
Side that says in goes toward intake or carb
Hi, I have 2 xr engines (100 w 120kit and 80cc) that arent starting. They both make 151 psi. Have you ever had this problem of slightly low compression before?
150 should kick it off....
check for spark, spark (and cam) timing, and that you are getting fuel...
You can add a tbsp of oil into the cylinder and do another compression test, then try and kick it 0ff again (note-sometimes it works, sometimes it fowls plugs)
Quick way to check for fuel...spray some good quality brake clean into the carb and see if it grabs
@@jaylanecreations5503 Thanks so much for the reply!
I havnt tried the 80 yet but really glad to know it should start
I kept trying the xr with the 120 kit with a couple different spark plugs and the one i used last fall, which looked pretty blacj when I took it out. the other plug i tried said CHS7 instead of CHS7A, and I got it in the parts bin of the xr80 I bought but it looks new. I made sure they were gapped right and made sure the carb was getting gas (The gas may actually be quite old, I’m going to get new gas tomorrow). I took the engine out and checked the timing and clearances and they both seemed to be good. Last fall I noticed the bike (without the 120 kit just a 100) was losing power, so thats why I just decided to just upgrade to the 120 because I had already invested a good amount in the bike. I believe the bikes electrical system is stock and 32 years old, so that could be the problem, but last fall it had spark. I was planning on taking the head off and checking the valves too.
Thanks so much, any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
@@2smoke383 without seeing the bike its hard to tell, plus upgrading without addressing the initial issues can compound problems.
No worries though, I have been in worse situations.
At this point start from th beginning, work through the middle and stop at the end...little bites.
Confirm compression, confirm spark and spark timing and then go after the fuel system, making sure that each part is up to spec before goin to the next.
At a guess it sounds like a carb issue, but make sure your foundation is strong first!
Keep me posted
@@2smoke383 and get new gas!!!!
what year
On my bike it cranks but shoot out a big bang out the muffler they said it could be the valves
it could be loading up on fuel....valves, carb not adjusted correctly, timing.... go back to basics, I have eliminated fuel/carb issues with supplementing fuel through a spray, eliminating the carb circuits.... keep the fuel turned off, carb cleaner or brake clean sprayed into the carb.... see if it grabs and runs... don't spray too much
Thank you alot buddy I appreciate it
I end up replacing the valves and seals
Thanks Joe love your videos on point 👌 👍 every time
Should of just put a new piston too
Depends on how it specs out....usually replace the rings after so many hours
Any idea 💡 👀 🤔
?