Hello, great video! Personnally I just look at the shadows, it is much more precise : Shadow Full sun - sharp shadow: f / 16 Veiled sun - diffuse shadow: -1 stop => f / 11 Against the light or in the shade (clear shade): -3 stops => f / 5.6 Sun above the horizon, before diving: about -4 stops or about f / 4 No shade Hidden sun, white sky, visible sun disk with sunglasses: -2 stops => f / 8 Overcast sky, light gray, invisible sun disk: -3 stops => f / 5.6 Overcast, leaden gray, it can rain: -4 stops => f / 4 Rain: from -4 to -5 stops or f / 4 to f / 2.8 Interior From -9 to -10 stops Dim lights: between -12 and -15 stops I use this and I have great result, hope it helps
Love how clear and concise these videos are. I think a lot of people on RUclips focus on gear or just photo walks but there is always something to learn from your video's Love the videos!
Sunny 16 can also save you money. I learned sunny 16 after I bought an M6. now I think an M4 would have been enough. 🤷♂️ After a while you get so good at sunny 16 that you almost automatically change the aperture without thinking much about it. that's when it's the most fun. 😀 good video on the subject in any case and the shot 9:10 was really nice.
super helpful video Jack, but the most impressive thing was that basically every shot was properly exposed & in focus. blew my mind to see them flick-of-the-wrist shots turn out so crisp 🤯
Cheers! There were a couple that were a little out but that’s why I wanted to push it to 800 so I could keep shooting around F8 and get everything I wanted in focus. Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved some of these shots, the one at 07:08 inparticular. I’ve been meaning to actually learn about sunny 16 for so long, thank you, great video as always!
Great video mate. I am a bit confused about something. What was the reason for setting the ISO if you were not planning to use the camera light meter? Thanks.
The single best thing for me to judge my exposure technique are contact prints made in the darkroom: there you can really see how some of the shots are "off" (even with a meter) as there is no compensation for each individual frame but more or less an average between all of them (ideally the minimum time to get maximum black).
Nice video! I feel like it might put me off having to write down all of the settings, but I would really miss that reference when trying to learn. Maybe it would be worth practicing with a digital camera where you get the meta data automatically first?
Hey! I would say with digital, this is just something to have in the back of your mind to make you a better photographer. You can see on the camera screen if the exposure is right or not… but wouldn’t it be great to know, whatever the available light, what your settings should be?
@@PhotoCinematica ok thanx. And with your simple eyes you know that you are at 1 or 1,3 m from the subject if you set the focus at this distance ? You realy see the difference between 1,5 and 1,7 m ?
This might sound ridiculous but how do you build up the courage to take photographs in front of other people in public? Whenever I attempt to do it I always feel judged and freighted.
It’s something I’m still working on. My advice is to just do it and do it with confidence knowing that you’re not doing anything wrong. If your intentions are good then you should be able to explain to them what you’re doing IF they ask why you took the photo. Also try to smile, you’ll seem more approachable ✌🏼 - but like I said, still working on it myself 😊
I battle with this, I tend to lean in to feeling like a dickhead and remind myself that 99% of people aren't noticing me, and the ones that are forget 5 seconds later. Just enjoy your hobby!
For a ISO 200 film, you set the shutter speed to 1/250 sec, and not 1/125 sec, as you said, which the shutter speed for an ISO 100 film. Said that, excellent video..
Hey dude, quick question for you. For a lot of the open shade shots you seemed to meter for f2.8 over f4. Why did you find yourself doing this? Was it more to do with being closer to lots of high rises and losing a little more light?
Hey! I don’t think I ever went lower than 5.6 - it’s hard to tell on the video how subtle the change of light was but if it felt like it had dipped in light when I was in shade I would open up a stop or two
@@PhotoCinematica Ah sorry, I mean f2.8 on regards to sunny 16 as if shot at 1/1000 (I think you shot f5.6 @ 1/250). But that makes sense, more just a dip in the light when you were still in shade. Thanks!
Hello, great video!
Personnally I just look at the shadows, it is much more precise :
Shadow
Full sun - sharp shadow: f / 16
Veiled sun - diffuse shadow: -1 stop => f / 11
Against the light or in the shade (clear shade): -3 stops => f / 5.6
Sun above the horizon, before diving: about -4 stops or about f / 4
No shade
Hidden sun, white sky, visible sun disk with sunglasses: -2 stops => f / 8
Overcast sky, light gray, invisible sun disk: -3 stops => f / 5.6
Overcast, leaden gray, it can rain: -4 stops => f / 4
Rain: from -4 to -5 stops or f / 4 to f / 2.8
Interior
From -9 to -10 stops
Dim lights: between -12 and -15 stops
I use this and I have great result, hope it helps
Thanks for this!
What does against the light mean?
@@sbarronmd when you photograph something with light behind this
The Art of Photography explained it in a similar way, most useful explanation I believe!
ruclips.net/video/KW847jQpesY/видео.html
Thanks you
Well done that man that's all i needed to know.
Love how clear and concise these videos are.
I think a lot of people on RUclips focus on gear or just photo walks but there is always something to learn from your video's
Love the videos!
Sunny 16 can also save you money. I learned sunny 16 after I bought an M6. now I think an M4 would have been enough. 🤷♂️ After a while you get so good at sunny 16 that you almost automatically change the aperture without thinking much about it. that's when it's the most fun. 😀 good video on the subject in any case and the shot 9:10 was really nice.
Agreed. Bought an M4-P instead of an M6 last year - way I looked at it, I effectively paid myself £1k to learn sunny 16 and get on with it!
@@bradleybull1787 yep exactly that's all you really need.
super helpful video Jack, but the most impressive thing was that basically every shot was properly exposed & in focus. blew my mind to see them flick-of-the-wrist shots turn out so crisp 🤯
Cheers! There were a couple that were a little out but that’s why I wanted to push it to 800 so I could keep shooting around F8 and get everything I wanted in focus. Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved some of these shots, the one at 07:08 inparticular.
I’ve been meaning to actually learn about sunny 16 for so long, thank you, great video as always!
Glad to see someone else is doing videos to help new photographers. I did a Sunny 16 video on my channel recently as well! Cheers👍🏼
Thank you Photo Cinematica
I have so much to learn...
Great video mate. I am a bit confused about something. What was the reason for setting the ISO if you were not planning to use the camera light meter? Thanks.
Purely a reminder. A lot of people won’t shoot a roll in a day. It’s a good habit to get into regardless
@@PhotoCinematica Ah ok, makes perfect sense. Thank you very much.
excellent
I love your channel! How long have you been obsessing about cinematic photography?
Thanks so much! I started the IG page back in 2016 ✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
The single best thing for me to judge my exposure technique are contact prints made in the darkroom: there you can really see how some of the shots are "off" (even with a meter) as there is no compensation for each individual frame but more or less an average between all of them (ideally the minimum time to get maximum black).
I am impressed how fast you can pull focus. It takes me ages to focus with my canon f1
I think street photography is a lot easier with a rangefinder
hes probably "zone focusing". bunch of vids about it on YT
Nice video! I feel like it might put me off having to write down all of the settings, but I would really miss that reference when trying to learn. Maybe it would be worth practicing with a digital camera where you get the meta data automatically first?
What hood are you using? Looks great!
Hey! It’s not a hood, it’s a step-up ring for when I use an 85 filter 👍🏼
Great video! What was the lens you were using on the m6? :)
Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 ✌🏼
Hola. Does this trick have use in digital cameras? Does it really work and affect the photo or is it something exclusive for analog cameras?
Hey! I would say with digital, this is just something to have in the back of your mind to make you a better photographer. You can see on the camera screen if the exposure is right or not… but wouldn’t it be great to know, whatever the available light, what your settings should be?
how do you do for focusing so fast ?
When “zone focussing”, you can set you focus area so you know that any subject that enters that area will be in focus. That’s what I was doing here 👍🏼
@@PhotoCinematica ok thanx. And with your simple eyes you know that you are at 1 or 1,3 m from the subject if you set the focus at this distance ? You realy see the difference between 1,5 and 1,7 m ?
my dude, where did you get this beautiful camera strap?
Rock n roll Straps!
@@PhotoCinematica beautiful, thank you!
I miss this channel
The channel misses you. Coming back soon 😁😁😁
Very interesting but why should i use These small apertures on purpose?
It should be a creative choice. I was out shooting street so I wanted more of my shot in focus. 👍🏼
When using the Sunny 16 rule for photography and manually exposing, you don't need to input the ISO value to the camera."
No but it doesn’t hurt. If you forget what speed film you’re shooting…
@@PhotoCinematica Yes, that's true, but it's still not part of the Sunny 16 rule
more videos soon?!
👨🏻🍳👨🏻🍳👨🏻🍳
This might sound ridiculous but how do you build up the courage to take photographs in front of other people in public? Whenever I attempt to do it I always feel judged and freighted.
It’s something I’m still working on. My advice is to just do it and do it with confidence knowing that you’re not doing anything wrong. If your intentions are good then you should be able to explain to them what you’re doing IF they ask why you took the photo. Also try to smile, you’ll seem more approachable ✌🏼 - but like I said, still working on it myself 😊
I battle with this, I tend to lean in to feeling like a dickhead and remind myself that 99% of people aren't noticing me, and the ones that are forget 5 seconds later. Just enjoy your hobby!
For a ISO 200 film, you set the shutter speed to 1/250 sec, and not 1/125 sec, as you said, which the shutter speed for an ISO 100 film. Said that, excellent video..
Hey dude, quick question for you. For a lot of the open shade shots you seemed to meter for f2.8 over f4. Why did you find yourself doing this? Was it more to do with being closer to lots of high rises and losing a little more light?
Hey! I don’t think I ever went lower than 5.6 - it’s hard to tell on the video how subtle the change of light was but if it felt like it had dipped in light when I was in shade I would open up a stop or two
@@PhotoCinematica Ah sorry, I mean f2.8 on regards to sunny 16 as if shot at 1/1000 (I think you shot f5.6 @ 1/250). But that makes sense, more just a dip in the light when you were still in shade. Thanks!
where art thou mr photo cinematica
I have been a lonely wanderer. But I’m have returned. Soon ye shall see new videos… 😁✌🏼
My light meter read f11 f8 like f16 because the sun shines full at a object.
WHY WRITE HP5 400 STOCK ON A KODAK 200 CANISTER? I understand the concept of pushing film, but how does writing hp5 400 help you or make any sense??
I bulk load HP5 into empty canisters. I probably should have said.
@@PhotoCinematica I didn't even finish the vid before commenting. sorry for yelling and breaking a basic yt rule..
your British. shouldn't it be overcast 16???
Back in the day I would get 37 perfectly exposed frames of fuji velvia on a smena8 russian camera.
no; i think u were "to the pt". cheers