Excellent video to show the "why" . I like the additional detail of cleaning of the fin roller. I also appreciate your explanation of styrene in the CSM and why the epoxy is usable. The dishing of the repair is important and you showed clear evidence of its' effect on the faired repair. Great video Andy! Hope you enjoyed the turkey after this! ;-)
A big thank you for showing how to clean the roller after using it. I can't remember ever seeing a fiberglass video showing how to clean the tools, and that is a critical part of the project.
Hey Andy! Great overview on how to properly get holes filled. I've been loving all the total boat products I've tried in the last 3 years. The new content has been looking awesome!
Sir I'd like to thank you for taking the mystery out of fiberglass for me. Before I seen your videos I had a 23 ft sea ray that I got rid of because I was ignorant of how fiberglass worked. I thought there was a ton of chemistry and basically witchcraft to it. Now I kick myself for not at least trying to find out before getting rid of my boat. Watching you has made it look at least like something I should try on at least a small project. Thanks for all you share.
Hey Andy , we really like your work! We building a dean Cat in South Africa . We have watched some of your videos for tips . Thanks so much! Kind Regards Sailing lady Africa
I learned so much from your videos! I even got the courage to make a full restoration of a small boston.. it came out pretty good! In the process, your videos was my guide line.. i thank you so much for it! Keep it up master!
As a novice I began with West and was not pleased. Went with Jamestown epoxy and products without disappointment. I angled after seeing your results videos. Thank you. You saved me not only money, but time and frustration.
I'm a "why" person. Once I understand the reasoning behind a specific technique, then I can intelligently apply that technique to other situations. And just as importantly, it helps me know when NOT to use the technique even thought the situation looks similar.
Hey Andy I never clean my fin roller I just let the epoxy Harden Take It Outside with my propane torch and set it on fire. After the burn I just tap it on a plank to knock the ashes out! Not only do I not have to mess with the acetone but it's way more fun !!
Andy, thanks for the video as it confirmed the approach i will be taking in filling a depth sensor hole in my bow under the water line...hull is 1" solid glass, so will shape a plug, glass over it both externally & internally, fair it externally, and then bottom paint it...will feel much more confident once that unused sensor it out. thnks
Your videos are great. I'm a new owner of an 83 21' sport craft. And there are many holes like this from old attachments that need fixing. They were filled with some epoxy ...but that's about it no sanding or finishing bleh. Oh well back to work. Thx for your hard work in providing great info will be becoming a patreon . Ty again
I’m subscribing. I’m hard on my boats and I need to be able to repair them better, faster, and more diligently than I have in the past. I’m currently rebuilding a 70s Lund 315 guide to use during low water periods and be a loaner boat for my family and friends to go enjoy. I gotta redo stringers, bulkheads, and deal with a lot of fiberglass issue that spawned from a genius removing all the stringers and bulkheads and then building a “casting deck” out of 2x4s and pressure treated ply to sit on. They screwed this deck in from the outside of the hull and lined everything with roll roofing. So it’s all been stripped and I’m starting from scratch on this project.
Hello Andy. If you ever pay a visit to Jamestown Distributors please let me and others in this area know. I, and I’m sure others, would love to come out and meet you. I live about 15 mins from there and visit them frequently, especially in the spring.
With all the time you dedicate to other people's boats, I'm curious...do you have a boat of your own and if so, is it a classic that you restored or a new model that doesn't require any of your time? New sub...GREAT channel!
This Bertram is actually my boat :-) After many years of having it in storage I'm finally taking the leap to work on it full time this Winter! Thanks for subbing, much appreciated!!!
Denatured alcohol does as good or better job cleaning epoxy and it is much safer. One static spark and boom. Think it doesn't happen? I stained glass guy I know of burned to death cleaning stained glass with acetone. Acetone caught fire, he freaks out, knocks over the acetone on himself and human fireball. I've been fiberglassing for 40 years and use acetone for polyester cleanup, switched to mostly epoxy laminating and cleanup with alcohol. Been using the same aluminum rollers for all those years. Accumulated resin can be burned off with a torch. Cool videos, nice pro work.
Cool vid Andy. I will be doing body and paint on an old Lincoln Mark VII soon and will be using what I've learned on your channel to patch the fenders and quarter panels.It's a casualty of the salty winter roads here in Michigan.Thanks for posting!
Nice video, if you find you didn't clean your roller well or forgot to..... hit it with a propane torch and burn it clean. Quick and easy. Be careful not to melt it..... I did that once.
I hope you are doing ok now? I can't wait to see your next video. I always learn something new. Also, on another note. I picked-up the Abandoned Boston Whaler Boat Project "Budget Build." Part 2 should be published by tomorrow evening.
Great work Andy. I have a small project of my own to do in the spring and with your help I am feeling more confident all the time. Question for you. . How can we ecologically dispose of these materials used in glass boat building or best way to handle disposal. Thanks. . Keep up the great work.
Best way is to cure the product and then throw in garbage. It's the raw resins (un-cured) that you don't want to be throwing away, but once cured it's much safer
Just want to say thanks for your show. I love sail boats and im going to attempt a restoration of a small sail boat called a Enterprise. If i get it right i will attempt something bigger, looking forward to your series. Regards Ivan
well done....good timing, have several holes on my catamaran that need attention! Am changing over from WEST to the TotalBoat products after a recent (good) experience, driven by your comments a few episodes back. Thanks!
Andy do you have any videos on filling in a old thru Hull in a cored hull ? I have a 43’ sedan bridge boat and I’d like to fill in 2 old 2” transducer holes. A lot of the repairs I find are great for above the waterline but have very little mechanical strength for the below waterline pressure. HELP !!
Andy!! Super info. Enjoying watching, I have fiberglass’s stuff since dirt!! And you are teaching me new things every time!! What was the green filler?
Hi Don, the totalfair and adtech are two very different materials. The adtech is a polyester based putty and the totalfair is an epoxy based fairing compound. When I'm looking at a paint project I'll use totalfair and if I'm doing a gelcoat repair (another polyester based material) then I'll use Adtech. Generally it's not a good idea to apply poly based material overtop of epoxy. I hope this makes sense :-)!
Great Video! I have watched a ton if not all of your videos by now and I don't remember you ever actually fulling a hole that goes fully through the hull. I have a hole on a old whaler that the previous owner drilled through and I would love to see how you would go about dealing with it.
Do a search on my channel for a playlist "there's a hole in my boat'. It's a simulation but it walks through the repair process for holes below the waterline :-) Hope this helps!
Hello Andy, this video was very nice. I learned several things. You also answered my question about cleaning the roller, I have one, but did not get to using it, and now I know how to best clean it. I have one more question, if you would patch a small hole in for example a bulkhead, would you also put a piece of fibreglass on it?
How large is the hole? If it's larger than 1/2" then I would recommend a layer or two of glass overtop :-) Smaller holes can usually just get filled and be good to go
I know this an older video, but I'm just getting set up. Wondering what kind of grinder you are using. Is there a possibility I can could use an air tool instead? I want to be able to use my big shop vac to keep down the dust. I'm looking at a Bosch GEX33-6n... But I'd like to keep costs down, thanks for the video and the comment about ratios below waterline... My big fix will be from oil canning on a trailer in a Windrose 24... I don't want to split the hull but I'm wondering if I'll have to do some cockpit removal to do this right. Thanks for the video
Andy, really appreciate you taking the time to walk through explanations of what you are doing and also the fiberglass technical info. For example, I always wondered if you could lay polyester on epoxy and vice versa. Also really was interested in seeing what the layers of fiberglass, fairing and gelcoat looked like as you sanded through it. Great job! One additional question, if you have something that has been primed and painted in epoxy but need to fair a small area, is it possible/doable to apply thickened epoxy or fairing compound over primer? I realize I would have to sand and re-prime over a larger area than the part that needs additional fairing, just wonder if the thickened epoxy or fairing compound would stick to primer.
Hi Brian, as long as the fairing is being applied to primer coats and not paint absolutely you can use thickened epoxy to fair a spot in. Like you mentioned you will then also need to re-prime and paint the area :-) Hope this helps!
Thanks for the great videos, noticed your transition to Jamestown Total Boat products. I have heard very good things about those products. You mentioned watching football on Turkey , did you see the turkey that was laid by GB on Sunday night against the Vikes? Keep the videos coming, i truly enjoy watching and learning from them
Yea I watched it and was yelling at McCarthy all night lol!! Sad season for the Pack this year.. If you haven't tried the TB products I highly recommend them! Thanks for watching Randy, have a great week :-)
@@boatworkstoday I agree, no easier for the Vikings, they get they go to the Patriots next then on to Seattle. Oh well, there is always next year. When i was in high school i took 3 years of plastics in Industrial Arts, OK, shows my age, those classes are long gone. I build a couple of fiberglass boats with polyester resin, but the final layer of glass was woven roving, which looked like it was the last layer on your current boat, is that still used? I need to do some repairs on one of my boats, guess i will need to use 1708?
Are you grinding in that shop or pulling the boats outside? Its extremely clean if your grinding in there everyday. Also, I just have half a mixing cup filled with acetone that i dunk the whole roller in until I'm ready to use again. Keep it covered with a piece of cardboard with a notch cut out for the roller handle to keep it from evaporating.
Hi Travis, I do all the sanding and grinding here inside the shop. I do spend a lot of effort into dust collection and trying to do things as cleanly as possible though ;-) Good tip on the roller! Thank you!!
Andy, thanks for the video. My issue are a few small nicks less than 1 cm wide on the deck of my sailboat, but what makes it interesting is that it is in an area where the imprinted nonskid is quite prevalent, so I can't really sand it for prep and the gelcoat is beige (island packet sailboat), so how would you tackle that?
Thanks, do you intend to resolve the internal ‘plug’ of dark goop that was so poorly applied in the past? It would seem it still poses some vulnerability here?
Hi Geoff, I thought about removing it but since the plug was not loose and still seemed to be well bonded I decided that removing and replacing would not have added any benefit in this instance. I can still fill in any gaps around the edges. If there had been any movement with the plug then absolutely I would have knocked it out and replaced :-)
No amine blush? Didn’t wash before sanding? Also thot you would have bored out the original cheesy fix filler since you didn’t know what the material was. Is this the way you would fix a discontinued thru hull below the waterline?
Question...why not remove the remains of the plug instead of just filling from the outside? Covering the inside and filling was not an option? A guess...expansion.
Hi Thank You for Your videos, they are really helpful! Can I ask, what is the difference between epoxy and polyester ? And a happy newyear ! Jacob, Denmark
what are the differences between a product like Bondo and Total Fair? Would one better for something than another? I'm asking because Total Fair seems like an easier product to use with the 1 to 1 ratio, but is one stronger than another?
Another good educational video Andy and thank you. I do have a question and with no disrespect intended. Why didn't you remove the old plug and just start fresh ?. That is how I typically have done a repair like that although perhaps I have waisted my time doing it that way.
Hi Jim, I thought about it but since the plug was not loose and still seemed to be well bonded I decided that removing and replacing would not have added any benefit in this instance. I can still fill in any gaps around the edges. If there had been any movement with the plug then absolutely I would have knocked it out and replaced :-)
Thank you for answering my question Andy. Makes sense to me. After watching this video I looked endlessly to find a shop vac like you have with no luck.
The vac setup I have is a Fein vacuum with an Oneida Dust Deputy separator (that's the cone looking thing on top of the black drum). Works pretty well. However when this vac dies I'm probably going to go with Festool vacuum (they're really nice as well :-)
Hopefully by now you have recovered from your "turkey fix" Andy and are now back to normal. If you were going to plug the hole next to the repair, would you have ground the whole area down and done it in one series or would you do two seperate repairs?
Hey Orville :-) If I were doing the hole next to it or starting from scratch I would likely do it in 2 steps. First would be to fill the hole either with thickened epoxy or even a plywood plug and epoxy that in place. After that had setup then grind around the perimeter on both sides, fill any gaps with epoxy then lay down the glass. Above the waterline in a non-structural area it's fine to do 1 or 2 layers of glass but below the waterline the size of the taper would be much larger and deeper to allow for 3 or more layers of glass per side :-)
@@boatworkstoday Would love to see a video of doing an entire plug below the water line. I have a through-hull that I no longer need and want to plug up. Currently I have a plastic plug that screws into the through hull fitting but don't want that to leak and so I'm deciding whether to just take out the entire fitting and do a plywood plug or to use the screwed in plastic plug and epoxy that in place. I appreciate the great videos on fiberglass work, some of the best on the web.
I look forward to your videos. Looks like you are out of Tally Ho challenge coins. Better get some more. Maybe you can make trinkets out of scrap live oak, coasters or something.😎👍
Question. Would you use the same technique for glassing in a thru hull below the waterline? I've read you really need to flair out a lot more to about a 10 to 1 ratio. I'd assume it's also a good idea to flair the inside as well and glass that in to. Thanks.
Below the waterline would be a MUCH different approach. Bevels would be 12:1 on both the inner and outer skins with more like 4-5 layers of glass per side ;-)
Hey Andy I have a question very important to me so if you answer it I would greatly appreciate it, can you put non-skid on the front bow fore deck when spraying awlgrip 2000 and if so how would you do it, I'm not doing the whole bow just 3" inch non skid lines in total I'm going to have 9 lines at 3" inch each from the windshield to the front bow of the boat please help a greatly appreciate it
Hey Eddie, if you're just doing small nonskid strips I think you'd be better off using actual Awlgrip and apply by roller rather than spraying. Less mess and prep ;-) Roll out a base coat and sprinkle the nonskid in. Next day apply a seal coat and a final seal coat the following day pulling the tape immediately. Let cure for a couple days and done!
Hey Andy. Quite new to fiberglass repair and boating in general. I have a 1984 Sea Ray 22’ cuddy that I am rebuilding and have a lot of old screw holes to repair as well as some chipping right on the bow. I’m not sure what finish Sea Ray used but epoxy should work out fine, right? Your videos are an inspiration. Love them!
Excellent video to show the "why" . I like the additional detail of cleaning of the fin roller. I also appreciate your explanation of styrene in the CSM and why the epoxy is usable. The dishing of the repair is important and you showed clear evidence of its' effect on the faired repair. Great video Andy! Hope you enjoyed the turkey after this! ;-)
A Great REPARING video ! No more comments needed !!! All info and tips are there ! Thank you.
TotalFair loves you back, Andy! xoxo
A big thank you for showing how to clean the roller after using it. I can't remember ever seeing a fiberglass video showing how to clean the tools, and that is a critical part of the project.
Good stuff, it's crazy how a 2 inch blemish winds up being a 12 inch diameter scuff, but that's what it takes. Keep the good stuff coming.
Hey Andy! Great overview on how to properly get holes filled. I've been loving all the total boat products I've tried in the last 3 years. The new content has been looking awesome!
The journey begins I look forward too see progress ,Thanks for sharing.
Oh, good. Actual boat work is happening :)
Sir I'd like to thank you for taking the mystery out of fiberglass for me. Before I seen your videos I had a 23 ft sea ray that I got rid of because I was ignorant of how fiberglass worked. I thought there was a ton of chemistry and basically witchcraft to it. Now I kick myself for not at least trying to find out before getting rid of my boat. Watching you has made it look at least like something I should try on at least a small project. Thanks for all you share.
Hey Andy , we really like your work! We building a dean Cat in South Africa . We have watched some of your videos for tips . Thanks so much! Kind Regards Sailing lady Africa
I like how you always use the vacuum during cutting and sanding.
Very good instruction, reasoning is sound and clear. With Total Boat it looks easy.
I learned so much from your videos! I even got the courage to make a full restoration of a small boston.. it came out pretty good!
In the process, your videos was my guide line.. i thank you so much for it! Keep it up master!
Nice work!
As a novice I began with West and was not pleased. Went with Jamestown epoxy and products without disappointment. I angled after seeing your results videos. Thank you. You saved me not only money, but time and frustration.
Hi Andy... This is going to be a great video project. Can't wait till you launch the boat.
Your videos make me itch.
I'm a "why" person. Once I understand the reasoning behind a specific technique, then I can intelligently apply that technique to other situations. And just as importantly, it helps me know when NOT to use the technique even thought the situation looks similar.
first i like your format , its extremely technical and that's what i like , this educates us who are at the . lets say the apprentice stage thanks
nice tool tip on keeping the rollers clean - for some reason i enjoy the pain of constantly reordering rollers
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I have several halos on the transom of my boat, so great video to make my work a little easier to do.
Thanks for sharing Andy, super helpful......
Thank you Benoit!
Hey Andy I never clean my fin roller I just let the epoxy Harden Take It Outside with my propane torch and set it on fire. After the burn I just tap it on a plank to knock the ashes out! Not only do I not have to mess with the acetone but it's way more fun !!
I'll have to give that a try next time it gets all gummed up ;-)!
That should be a last resort. Try not to pollute the air, please.
Another great video. I start my project in about 2 weeks
Good to see you're back in uniform. Oh, and very nice work on that repair.
Andy, your videos are so good, I watch every one of them & I don't even have a boat.
Glad to see you found your brown overalls and red shirt! Looking forward to this series.
Andy, thanks for the video as it confirmed the approach i will be taking in filling a depth sensor hole in my bow under the water line...hull is 1" solid glass, so will shape a plug, glass over it both externally & internally, fair it externally, and then bottom paint it...will feel much more confident once that unused sensor it out. thnks
keep up the format thanks
Hi Andy
Thank you for another helpful vid
Great vid Andy. Appreciate the details 👍
Your videos are great. I'm a new owner of an 83 21' sport craft. And there are many holes like this from old attachments that need fixing. They were filled with some epoxy ...but that's about it no sanding or finishing bleh. Oh well back to work. Thx for your hard work in providing great info will be becoming a patreon . Ty again
I’m subscribing. I’m hard on my boats and I need to be able to repair them better, faster, and more diligently than I have in the past. I’m currently rebuilding a 70s Lund 315 guide to use during low water periods and be a loaner boat for my family and friends to go enjoy. I gotta redo stringers, bulkheads, and deal with a lot of fiberglass issue that spawned from a genius removing all the stringers and bulkheads and then building a “casting deck” out of 2x4s and pressure treated ply to sit on. They screwed this deck in from the outside of the hull and lined everything with roll roofing.
So it’s all been stripped and I’m starting from scratch on this project.
Excellent video
Andy, another great video. I’m starting a compac 16 project this winter so very much appreciate your channel. I’ve learned a lot. Thank you.
Hello Andy. If you ever pay a visit to Jamestown Distributors please let me and others in this area know. I, and I’m sure others, would love to come out and meet you. I live about 15 mins from there and visit them frequently, especially in the spring.
With all the time you dedicate to other people's boats, I'm curious...do you have a boat of your own and if so, is it a classic that you restored or a new model that doesn't require any of your time? New sub...GREAT channel!
This Bertram is actually my boat :-) After many years of having it in storage I'm finally taking the leap to work on it full time this Winter! Thanks for subbing, much appreciated!!!
cool video. Landlocked with a bowrider. That comment about just humidity kind of hit home. Holes in the gel coat :)
Thank you. My retirement goal is to live on a sailboat. These videos will help me save money.
A belated happy Thanksgiving, Andy!
Denatured alcohol does as good or better job cleaning epoxy and it is much safer. One static spark and boom. Think it doesn't happen? I stained glass guy I know of burned to death cleaning stained glass with acetone. Acetone caught fire, he freaks out, knocks over the acetone on himself and human fireball.
I've been fiberglassing for 40 years and use acetone for polyester cleanup, switched to mostly epoxy laminating and cleanup with alcohol.
Been using the same aluminum rollers for all those years. Accumulated resin can be burned off with a torch. Cool videos, nice pro work.
Happy Thanksgiving Andy!
Cool vid Andy. I will be doing body and paint on an old Lincoln Mark VII soon and will be using what I've learned on your channel to patch the fenders and quarter panels.It's a casualty of the salty winter roads here in Michigan.Thanks for posting!
Nice video, if you find you didn't clean your roller well or forgot to..... hit it with a propane torch and burn it clean. Quick and easy. Be careful not to melt it..... I did that once.
10:45 I Heard a Heat Gun, and a Wire Brush Works Well, Also.
I hope you are doing ok now? I can't wait to see your next video. I always learn something new. Also, on another note. I picked-up the Abandoned Boston Whaler Boat Project "Budget Build." Part 2 should be published by tomorrow evening.
Great work Andy. I have a small project of my own to do in the spring and with your help I am feeling more confident all the time. Question for you. . How can we ecologically dispose of these materials used in glass boat building or best way to handle disposal. Thanks. . Keep up the great work.
Best way is to cure the product and then throw in garbage. It's the raw resins (un-cured) that you don't want to be throwing away, but once cured it's much safer
Just want to say thanks for your show. I love sail boats and im going to attempt a restoration of a small sail boat called a Enterprise. If i get it right i will attempt something bigger, looking forward to your series. Regards
Ivan
I do put piece of polyethylene plastic other the patch and squeeze it tight by hand/ Keep plastic before epoxy cures
well done....good timing, have several holes on my catamaran that need attention! Am changing over from WEST to the TotalBoat products after a recent (good) experience, driven by your comments a few episodes back. Thanks!
Thank you again for another helpful video!
Please please please, make a video on installing hardware to a boat. Wooden rails, traveller rail, cleats, etc.
Happy thanksgiving 🦃.
Hope Papa had his fill of Turkey...LOL Great video's :)
Hi Andy,
Did you kniw you csn clean the epoxy off your tools with plain white vinager.
I don't know if it works with polyester
I can 2nd that....it's how I clean up epoxy from my tools and drips too. Great video as always :)
I have a 23.6 sailfish center console what should be looking to pay to have the complete boats gel coat to be redone
Just found your channel.. Excellent videos. Subbed for sure.!!
So as a rule of thumb, you shouldn’t put polyurethane over epoxy?
Andy do you have any videos on filling in a old thru Hull in a cored hull ? I have a 43’ sedan bridge boat and I’d like to fill in 2 old 2” transducer holes. A lot of the repairs I find are great for above the waterline but have very little mechanical strength for the below waterline pressure. HELP !!
Andy!! Super info. Enjoying watching, I have fiberglass’s stuff since dirt!! And you are teaching me new things every time!! What was the green filler?
The green stuff / fairing that I used is TotalBoat TotalFair (great stuff!). Can be ordered through Jamestown Distributors :-)
Andy, is the Totalfair better than the Adtech P10 Ultra that you used to like?
Hi Don, the totalfair and adtech are two very different materials. The adtech is a polyester based putty and the totalfair is an epoxy based fairing compound. When I'm looking at a paint project I'll use totalfair and if I'm doing a gelcoat repair (another polyester based material) then I'll use Adtech. Generally it's not a good idea to apply poly based material overtop of epoxy. I hope this makes sense :-)!
Sure does Andy! Thanks for the reply. Makes "Total" sense.
Lol :-)!!
Great Video! I have watched a ton if not all of your videos by now and I don't remember you ever actually fulling a hole that goes fully through the hull. I have a hole on a old whaler that the previous owner drilled through and I would love to see how you would go about dealing with it.
Do a search on my channel for a playlist "there's a hole in my boat'. It's a simulation but it walks through the repair process for holes below the waterline :-) Hope this helps!
@@boatworkstoday Thanks for steering me in the right direction! I'm not sure how I missed that one.
Hello Andy, this video was very nice. I learned several things. You also answered my question about cleaning the roller, I have one, but did not get to using it, and now I know how to best clean it. I have one more question, if you would patch a small hole in for example a bulkhead, would you also put a piece of fibreglass on it?
How large is the hole? If it's larger than 1/2" then I would recommend a layer or two of glass overtop :-) Smaller holes can usually just get filled and be good to go
Which side of the 1708 did you put down? Or does it make a difference?
Do you have to paint the whole transom now?
I have recently covered my epoxy based fix with polyester gel coat - hopefully it will be ok!!
Great thing about composites is that if it doesn't work the way you'd like it's nothing that a little bit of sanding can't fix!
I know this an older video, but I'm just getting set up. Wondering what kind of grinder you are using. Is there a possibility I can could use an air tool instead? I want to be able to use my big shop vac to keep down the dust. I'm looking at a Bosch GEX33-6n... But I'd like to keep costs down, thanks for the video and the comment about ratios below waterline... My big fix will be from oil canning on a trailer in a Windrose 24... I don't want to split the hull but I'm wondering if I'll have to do some cockpit removal to do this right.
Thanks for the video
Andy, really appreciate you taking the time to walk through explanations of what you are doing and also the fiberglass technical info. For example, I always wondered if you could lay polyester on epoxy and vice versa. Also really was interested in seeing what the layers of fiberglass, fairing and gelcoat looked like as you sanded through it. Great job! One additional question, if you have something that has been primed and painted in epoxy but need to fair a small area, is it possible/doable to apply thickened epoxy or fairing compound over primer? I realize I would have to sand and re-prime over a larger area than the part that needs additional fairing, just wonder if the thickened epoxy or fairing compound would stick to primer.
Hi Brian, as long as the fairing is being applied to primer coats and not paint absolutely you can use thickened epoxy to fair a spot in. Like you mentioned you will then also need to re-prime and paint the area :-) Hope this helps!
Thanks Andy, That's great info!
Hey Andy, how about a "Go Pack" at the end of your vids?
Thanks for the great videos, noticed your transition to Jamestown Total Boat products. I have heard very good things about those products. You mentioned watching football on Turkey , did you see the turkey that was laid by GB on Sunday night against the Vikes? Keep the videos coming, i truly enjoy watching and learning from them
Yea I watched it and was yelling at McCarthy all night lol!! Sad season for the Pack this year.. If you haven't tried the TB products I highly recommend them! Thanks for watching Randy, have a great week :-)
@@boatworkstoday I agree, no easier for the Vikings, they get they go to the Patriots next then on to Seattle. Oh well, there is always next year. When i was in high school i took 3 years of plastics in Industrial Arts, OK, shows my age, those classes are long gone. I build a couple of fiberglass boats with polyester resin, but the final layer of glass was woven roving, which looked like it was the last layer on your current boat, is that still used? I need to do some repairs on one of my boats, guess i will need to use 1708?
Would the process have been any different if you used the west marine products over the total boat products?
The process itself would be the same, however the quality of the materials does make a big difference in how smooth things go ;-)
Andy, what happened to the sailboat project for your daughters.
Are you grinding in that shop or pulling the boats outside? Its extremely clean if your grinding in there everyday. Also, I just have half a mixing cup filled with acetone that i dunk the whole roller in until I'm ready to use again. Keep it covered with a piece of cardboard with a notch cut out for the roller handle to keep it from evaporating.
Hi Travis, I do all the sanding and grinding here inside the shop. I do spend a lot of effort into dust collection and trying to do things as cleanly as possible though ;-) Good tip on the roller! Thank you!!
@@boatworkstoday Good for you for keeping it so clean. In my shop, a paint can I bought yesterday looks 50 years old.
how you you reparied a hole under the boat plug
So little stress cracks
Try 3M panel bond for those small holes.
Andy, how sure are you about the transom? Two engines where there was an in-board one seems a recipe for disaster if it isn't sturdy enough.
I'll be beefing the transom up more in the coming video's ;-) It's likely fine now, but I didn't do the work and want to make sure it's solid!
I am actually surprised that you didn't drill out the bad plug to insure that the core was solid and had no rot. Why?
Could you tell us why you went with this brand of epoxy, over WEst Systems, for this project?
Andy, thanks for the video. My issue are a few small nicks less than 1 cm wide on the deck of my sailboat, but what makes it interesting is that it is in an area where the imprinted nonskid is quite prevalent, so I can't really sand it for prep and the gelcoat is beige (island packet sailboat), so how would you tackle that?
Thanks, do you intend to resolve the internal ‘plug’ of dark goop that was so poorly applied in the past? It would seem it still poses some vulnerability here?
Hi Geoff, I thought about removing it but since the plug was not loose and still seemed to be well bonded I decided that removing and replacing would not have added any benefit in this instance. I can still fill in any gaps around the edges. If there had been any movement with the plug then absolutely I would have knocked it out and replaced :-)
No amine blush? Didn’t wash before sanding? Also thot you would have bored out the original cheesy fix filler since you didn’t know what the material was. Is this the way you would fix a discontinued thru hull below the waterline?
The epoxy on boats is the same resin we could get at Lowe's or Menards?
Those are 5-minute epoxies and would not give you enough working time to wet out the cloth.
Question...why not remove the remains of the plug instead of just filling from the outside?
Covering the inside and filling was not an option?
A guess...expansion.
Hi
Thank You for Your videos, they are really helpful!
Can I ask, what is the difference between epoxy and polyester ?
And a happy newyear !
Jacob, Denmark
It looked like you put the 1708 with the chop strain facing outward instead of against the blemish . Or on my eyes just so old I can't tell
I suppose anything is possible but I try to make a point of always putting the csm side face down :-)
Extra work, I know, but I would have cut off the excess and filled the interior gaps and slapped a small patch on, 5 minutes work.
what are the differences between a product like Bondo and Total Fair? Would one better for something than another? I'm asking because Total Fair seems like an easier product to use with the 1 to 1 ratio, but is one stronger than another?
Pva over fresh gel coat final finish coat will it be hard to sand and polish out?Or would it be wiser to use wax?
Another good educational video Andy and thank you. I do have a question and with no disrespect intended. Why didn't you remove the old plug and just start fresh ?. That is how I typically have done a repair like that although perhaps I have waisted my time doing it that way.
Hi Jim, I thought about it but since the plug was not loose and still seemed to be well bonded I decided that removing and replacing would not have added any benefit in this instance. I can still fill in any gaps around the edges. If there had been any movement with the plug then absolutely I would have knocked it out and replaced :-)
Thank you for answering my question Andy. Makes sense to me. After watching this video I looked endlessly to find a shop vac like you have with no luck.
The vac setup I have is a Fein vacuum with an Oneida Dust Deputy separator (that's the cone looking thing on top of the black drum). Works pretty well. However when this vac dies I'm probably going to go with Festool vacuum (they're really nice as well :-)
Thanks for the information Andy.@@boatworkstoday
Hopefully by now you have recovered from your "turkey fix" Andy and are now back to normal. If you were going to plug the hole next to the repair, would you have ground the whole area down and done it in one series or would you do two seperate repairs?
Hey Orville :-) If I were doing the hole next to it or starting from scratch I would likely do it in 2 steps. First would be to fill the hole either with thickened epoxy or even a plywood plug and epoxy that in place. After that had setup then grind around the perimeter on both sides, fill any gaps with epoxy then lay down the glass. Above the waterline in a non-structural area it's fine to do 1 or 2 layers of glass but below the waterline the size of the taper would be much larger and deeper to allow for 3 or more layers of glass per side :-)
@@boatworkstoday Would love to see a video of doing an entire plug below the water line. I have a through-hull that I no longer need and want to plug up. Currently I have a plastic plug that screws into the through hull fitting but don't want that to leak and so I'm deciding whether to just take out the entire fitting and do a plywood plug or to use the screwed in plastic plug and epoxy that in place.
I appreciate the great videos on fiberglass work, some of the best on the web.
I look forward to your videos. Looks like you are out of Tally Ho challenge coins. Better get some more. Maybe you can make trinkets out of scrap live oak, coasters or something.😎👍
Question. Would you use the same technique for glassing in a thru hull below the waterline? I've read you really need to flair out a lot more to about a 10 to 1 ratio. I'd assume it's also a good idea to flair the inside as well and glass that in to. Thanks.
Below the waterline would be a MUCH different approach. Bevels would be 12:1 on both the inner and outer skins with more like 4-5 layers of glass per side ;-)
Hey Andy I have a question very important to me so if you answer it I would greatly appreciate it, can you put non-skid on the front bow fore deck when spraying awlgrip 2000 and if so how would you do it, I'm not doing the whole bow just 3" inch non skid lines in total I'm going to have 9 lines at 3" inch each from the windshield to the front bow of the boat please help a greatly appreciate it
Hey Eddie, if you're just doing small nonskid strips I think you'd be better off using actual Awlgrip and apply by roller rather than spraying. Less mess and prep ;-) Roll out a base coat and sprinkle the nonskid in. Next day apply a seal coat and a final seal coat the following day pulling the tape immediately. Let cure for a couple days and done!
Would something like duraglass work instead of total fare? The faring process is similar to the body filler portion of auto body work, right?
I've not used Duraglass so can't say for sure, but yes the fairing process is pretty much the same as what's done with autobody work ;-)
Hi Andy, In your opinion, would poly gelcoat stick to the Totalboat epoxy as well as it does to West System? With proper preparation of course.
I have not tested that yet so can't say for sure. That may be a better question to ask JD's tech support to see what they say :-)
is total fair epoxy based?
Hey Andy. Quite new to fiberglass repair and boating in general. I have a 1984 Sea Ray 22’ cuddy that I am rebuilding and have a lot of old screw holes to repair as well as some chipping right on the bow. I’m not sure what finish Sea Ray used but epoxy should work out fine, right?
Your videos are an inspiration. Love them!
👍👍
Hey Andy
Making a small skiff how many layers of fiberglass should I use for the small skiff ?
Hard to say; are you working from a set of plans? If so what do they recommend?
No plans I making a fiberglass mold to make my boat