Ouch, I knew about the plug problem when I bought my '07 new and immediately took out the plugs and put nickel anti seize on them, when it was time to change I just got one piece plugs, but still put the anti seize on. So I never had the problem, but almost all my Mustang friends did because they bought used. The 4.6 is an extremely reliable engine (as long as it gets good maintenance) and very easy to work with. Besides sparkplugs, you'll face a dead alternator (replace with a newer Denso unit) and maybe a coolant leak under the intake manifold from one of the heater hoses. Preventive maintenance includes an Edelbrock water pump and a high flow oil pump with billet gears. A Reische 170 degree Thermostat, an all aluminum radiator and a GT500 fan. I've been daily driving mine since new and also drag and road racing. No problems at all. Good luck with the project, I'm sure you'll be happy.
@@lauragraff4844 Just do yours now if you're worried that it's going to happen which it will. It's inevitable. Your car really has low mileage for a car that old but that still means those plugs have been in there since it was assembled in the factory. A service advisor told me it was unnecessary to do mine when i hit 60,000 miles but i wish i did it myself anyway. I ended up doing mine at 105,000 with the extractor tool, following the Ford TSB soaking them in carb cleaner overnight, and slowly over the course of the following day i took my time taking each one out. Fortunately only 1 of them broke inside the head so i was very lucky and i used the tool to get that one out. From now on I'll regularly change them out which might sound excessive but i don't ever have want to have to use that extractor tool again. It wasn't difficult to use but the fear of dropping metal pieces into the cylinder or not being able to grab onto enough threads of the collar to extract justifies the frequent plug changes.
That sucks that had to happen! I am in fleet management and this happen more often than not! This problem is so common i can not believe Ford was not forced to make this a recall!!
Thanks man. Need to be honest right? Nobody does it 100% correctly all the time. Also, You're right! There is a lot of work to do (and make videos on) to get to those cylinder heads.
I didn’t mine yesterday. Original plugs. Carbon build up. I only loosened them slowly and the pop right out. I don’t think the pb blaster does anything cuz it made the same sound with out it. I think loosening then and tightening them doesn’t work either. I just loosened them ever so slight till they came out. Mine is a 2005. Instant improvement on gas mileage. Couldn’t be happier
I hear that the best way to deal with these plugs is to first add a full 16oz can of seafoam to about half tank of gas and use up that half tank that way seafoam helps break up the carbon from the combustion side then do the carb cleaner and pb blaster from the spark plug side I will unfortunately be trying this soon on my 3v 06 explorer because it has been showing signs of misfiring. I will be getting the extraction tool just in case. Truck only has 54k miles on it but its 14 years old so the low mileage might not help much
There are videos of people using an impact drill to remove these 2 piece plugs with successful results. I've use the impact method 2 times, and not a single one broke.
I broke all 8 of mine off. The extraction tool that autozone let's you rent is trash. Ended up getting the one you have and I thankfully got them all out. What should've been a 30 minute job ended up taking 2 weeks lol
Thats a tough break but that plug design in those Ford engines are notorious for that. Hopefully this video will help prevent someone else from running into the same issue. Great honest video.
Did mine recently to and I used deep creep (sea foam). I have used a lot of penetrating oils but none worked this good. My entire spark plug was soaked with the cleaner and I didn’t use a lot. I did warm my engine up and purchased a deep socket with a magnet from autozone. (Less then $10 I believe) and it was definitely worth the money.
Bought my 05 GT used as the second owner at 60k miles... Car was upgraded a bit. Now at 108k miles, and still running awesome. Thinking to change out plugs, but I've got a feeling the original plugs were probably swapped out for performance plugs by the previous owner, and not yet due. My question... how do I know what plugs are in my car without taking one out, possibly running the risk of snapping the OEM? I'm pretty sure the OEM wouldn't last 108k miles especially with my aggressive driving. That tells me I'm probably at least on my second set of plugs. Just my educated guess. Any advice? I've changed plugs in my own in the past with other, cheaper, less performance cars, but VERY nervous about doing this on my '05 Mustang GT.
I've had good luck with zmax injection cleaning kit. It cooks the carbon and leaves a white ash residue that easily passes through the threads. Make sure to drive it a couple days after treatment before removing plugs
@@miguelena40 Zmax is a kit you can buy at most auto parts stores. It has three bottles, one goes in the oil, one in the gas tank and the other is sucked through a vacuum line as the motor is running.
oh man this sounds like a pain in the rear,,,maybe soaking the spark plug in pb blaster and let it sit for a few hours or overnight might be better,,,i don't understand why you almost need a breaker bar just to get the spark plug out,,,,seems to be in there way to tight...I think I am just going to have the dealership do mine and not even mess with this.
just did mine today,,,,i used deep creep and let it sit 15 mins,,,probably should have let it sit over night but my mustang only has 48k miles on it,,,i did use fuel injector cleaner twice on 2 fill ups prior,,some say use sea foam,,,,i did not break the seal of the spark plugs before using deep creep,,,,worked it back and forth slowly and none of them broke,,,,,the plugs did have some carbon build up but not a lot,,,,ordered new spark plugs 1 pc deesign.
I’m so glad I happened upon this video. My f150 had the same problems with the plugs. I knew the plugs were these garbage multi piece ones so I had a guy do the job for me.... he broke every single plug and got glass into my engine and completely destroyed it. Of course he denied it and the truck was just a total loss... before I do my mustang plugs it’s nice to know that this problem is here as well. Thanks for al the tips. And so sorry to see your stang take that hit... you’d think plugs would be better made.
Avoid the long route of removing spark plugs. You need a nice and hot engine, Swivel Spark Plug Socket, extension and an impact gun. Make sure you are well aligned in the spark plug hole and zip it out. Prior to doing this job, clean the area very well before and after removing the spark plug. This is a tried and tested method and you cannot go wrong with that. Avoid the nightmare of broken spark plug on a cold engine. Good luck!!!
All well and good when it’s a properly designed spark plug. Not the goofy you know what that Ford designed for this engine and quietly replaced a couple years later. -U10
Yeah i remember helping my friend change his spark plugs on his 04' F-150. Took us over 8 hours to do them all cause of the process. 6 ended up braking, but didn't have any issues when using the extractor. I do recommend turning on the engine and letting the metal heat up before removing each sparkplug. That was our thinking as to why we had issues on the last 6.
@@lifeofdre707 Yes that's the case for your typical sparkplug change. Our engine just happened to be warm when we started the project and didn't have any issues removing the first 2 plugs. The next 6 broke. Our thinking was that since the plugs were hot it helped absorbe the penetrating spray better. Unfortunately we don't have another Ford with those spark plugs to test out our theory.
@@realawal54 the issue is they expand with heat and make it even more dangerous to remove. When I changed mine I sprayed pb blaster in the whole with the engine cold let it sit for a while then they all came out no issues, my issue was I didn't torque them down to spec I guessed..... bad decision 🚀😭
In a weird sort of way i a glad you screwed it up so i can watch how you fix it before i have to end up going into this same project completely blind myself. Good luck and i hope you get it done without any further issues. Appreciate your videos without a doubt.
when installing the spark plugs u can cut a piece of a water hose and u can stick the spark plug in one end of the water hose and you can start the spark plug in the head it works good i have a mustang gt also thats how i start my spark plugs and take them out with the piece of water hose
Before attempting to remove the spark plugs run the engine for a few minutes to slightly warm the heads. Then remove the spark plugs. Since the head is aluminium it will expand more than the steel spark plug and the plug should turn out easier. Removing plugs on a fully hot or fully cold engine is a bad idea. Use antisieze on plug threads when reinstalling.
I just had this problem with my 07 GT, got all the spark plugs out but pushed one too far and it broke, did you do a video of how you opened the cylinder heads and got it out?
Yes sir! I have a whole video series (5 in total) on disassembling the engine. Here is the first one: ruclips.net/video/z2LPPgiaElU/видео.html. At the end of each video you will see the next one as a recommended video.
This is some great tip's tks for sharring.Would this be the same on a 2015 Mustang ? My buddy broke 3 off in his stang. I can't believe how calm you are lol I would be spitin nails 👍
Haha, I was only calm on camera, trust me. I ended up doing a full rebuild because of this. 😂. It was only a problem on the S127’s and only for the first few years of them. They fixed it way before the 2015 model so don’t worry.
Did you happen to have any plugs that just kept spinning when removing them? I got 4 out just fine using some deep creep and the back and forth method, one snapped in half on me, but now I’ve got 3 others that just keep turning and don’t want to come out. My first thought was stripped threads, but I’ve been reading and some people are saying that the center electrode might still be intact while the porcelain broke. Not exactly sure how to proceed. Was told to attempt to break the plug in half by force, that way, I could use the extractor tool.
That’s actually how one of mine broke. I ended up sliding the handle of a ratchet down and resting it diagonally on the terminal of the spark plug. Then I took a hammer and tapped the ratchet until the porcelain snapped.
Sounds good. Also get a pair of needle nose pliers and try to pull the plug out first. The threaded piece could be lose already. It would make it easier to work on If that were out.
Got the spinners out with pliers to where they are just the normal broken plugs. Took a long time, but it paid off. So now I’ve got 4 I have to use the extractor kit on. 2 of the spinners came out with the entire electrode. First thought that comes to mind would be, does that make it easier, or potentially more dangerous when using the extractor kit because porcelain shards could more easily fall into the cylinder?
could you turn over the engine with the spark plug out and the pressure from the cylinder would force the loose pieces out by means of pressure instead of removing the cylinder head? if i have to remove the heads i am just going to buy even better heads with a better design and high flowing if thats the case,,,money well spent
eh, I wouldn't risk it. if it does not make it out the hole on the first revolution then its going to damage the head, piston, valves, or god forbid the cylinder wall.
On my 04 mustang GT and my 14 mustang GT I never leave the spark plugs in the car longer than 20,000 miles and when I change my plugs I always use liquid wrench or wd 40 and soak it in 30 minutes and they just come right out 100,000 miles spark plugs will cook inside the head and it will become a problem getting them out and if you break them inside the head then you will probably have to take it to the dealership and they know this
@@Rythecarguy i think you're right. it's overtorqued specs. Maybe there is a correction from Ford about that crazy torque spec. On this document it's also 34 Nm: performanceparts.ford.com › ...PDF M-6550-3V 4.6L 3V Camshafts ... - Ford Performance Parts
most of these guys always show you the ultra easy to access spark plug holes...not the ones on the 5.4 tritons, that are basically under the dash board..at least the last two on each side are way up in nightmare locations, not where you could use this extraction tool easy like this.. you even need a universal joint just to remove the plugs.
@@robertswift6101 went good. Sprayer some Wd 40 down in each hole and let it sit for 5 mins and then used a half inch drive gun to take them out and all of them came out easy .
You can easily tell when someone who works at dealership is lying. It’s when their mouth is moving. 🤣 JK (sorta), check your manual. It should tell you at what mileage you would normally need the maintenance. If they are saying you need something at 40,000 miles and your manual is saying to do it at 120,000 then ask them to show you why you need it. Or ask what symptom your car is showing that would justify that maintenance/repair. Then observe it yourself and make a determination.
This is why you stick with the 1999-2004 Mustang V8, it has the more reliable and durable two-valve motor. You can say the same thing about the trucks with the 5.4L motor.
@@Rythecarguy the reason why I saw your video is because I want an idea to do it my self next weekend and after this wow I will keep investigating .thanks again
Hey I did it on my 2010 mustang gt a had no problems. Just turned the car and let it run for 10min turned it off sprayed some people blaster in every spark plug let it boil for a couple minutes then started unscrewing them. They come off like butter. The pb blaster sure is the trick. When putting them back make sure to put anti sieze so you never have to worry about that nightmare. Took me only 40min to do all spark plugs
@@jonathanluna1069 thank you very much buddy i definitelly will do it my self , i like to work on.v my cars always but i did t know about this nightmare , thank you again
For sure. Loads of work but it will be worth it. Thinking of picking up new timing chain guides, new cams for some better performance, and if I’m taking off the heads I might as well get some long tube headers.
Why would you go with the OEM Motorcraft plug instead of a one piece replacement from someone like Champion?? You’re setting yourself up for the same problem again.
Hold on a sec.Ry,are you trying to tell me,that Ford made spark plug treads little to long,or head tread to short,which is the same in this case,so part of the tread sticks out inside the combustion chamber?That sounds tune up proof design!!! Carbon build up will prevent the plug to come out on its on,or brake the plug when you try to change them!!! Briliant!!! BTW i was sarcastic,man.Sorry that happend to you,but it looks like design flaw.
Hey man how did taking your car to the shop go? I’ve been putting off doing my spark plugs for the longest time because I’m so worried about them breaking on me, but I’m also worried about taking it to a shop because I feel like if a piece of the plug breaks off into the engine, they’ll just start the car and let it fly out the exhaust valve. Either way I feel like I’m fucked
@@Rythecarguy maybe they did it so you have to take it in to them for service and the charge you a bunch of money to do it cause they had to take apart everything
The slow and gently approach was the exact opposite of how to take them out. Spray them with Blaster and hit them with an impact. The quick jolt of torque takes them right out with no issues. Use nickel anti seize and only put it on the lower shoulder. Torque to 13 foot pounds not 25. You obviously didn't know the proper way to do the job and this is the result. Wrong tool operation, wrong torque specs, wrong anti seize, wrong approach!
Ouch, I knew about the plug problem when I bought my '07 new and immediately took out the plugs and put nickel anti seize on them, when it was time to change I just got one piece plugs, but still put the anti seize on. So I never had the problem, but almost all my Mustang friends did because they bought used. The 4.6 is an extremely reliable engine (as long as it gets good maintenance) and very easy to work with. Besides sparkplugs, you'll face a dead alternator (replace with a newer Denso unit) and maybe a coolant leak under the intake manifold from one of the heater hoses. Preventive maintenance includes an Edelbrock water pump and a high flow oil pump with billet gears. A Reische 170 degree Thermostat, an all aluminum radiator and a GT500 fan. I've been daily driving mine since new and also drag and road racing. No problems at all. Good luck with the project, I'm sure you'll be happy.
I also have an 07 mine is also gt I heard about the plug issue i have 66 thousand mi starting to worry about replacing.
@@lauragraff4844 Just do yours now if you're worried that it's going to happen which it will. It's inevitable. Your car really has low mileage for a car that old but that still means those plugs have been in there since it was assembled in the factory. A service advisor told me it was unnecessary to do mine when i hit 60,000 miles but i wish i did it myself anyway. I ended up doing mine at 105,000 with the extractor tool, following the Ford TSB soaking them in carb cleaner overnight, and slowly over the course of the following day i took my time taking each one out. Fortunately only 1 of them broke inside the head so i was very lucky and i used the tool to get that one out. From now on I'll regularly change them out which might sound excessive but i don't ever have want to have to use that extractor tool again. It wasn't difficult to use but the fear of dropping metal pieces into the cylinder or not being able to grab onto enough threads of the collar to extract justifies the frequent plug changes.
mine is 2010 , do you think is time to do my spark plugs at 78,000 miles ?
@@miguelena40 i would yes
@@robertswift6101 thanks !!
That sucks that had to happen! I am in fleet management and this happen more often than not! This problem is so common i can not believe Ford was not forced to make this a recall!!
Tell me about it, its insane! Not to mention people tell you to just start the car and let the metal shards come out the cylinder.
@@Rythecarguy Ford replaced/redesigned the spark plug for 2008+... correct? Or got very lucky on my plug change. Great videos!!!
@@dinosoarmotorsports correct
Honest video. Always something goes wrong at my place!
Sorry that happened man. Some lessons are hard learned, but hey, more video content! It’s nice that you show your successes as well as your failures.
Thanks man. Need to be honest right? Nobody does it 100% correctly all the time. Also, You're right! There is a lot of work to do (and make videos on) to get to those cylinder heads.
Informative video, helped out a lot, my first time changing spark plugs and it went good. I didn’t break any spark plugs thanks to this guy.
Hell yes, very glad to hear that. Good work!
I didn’t mine yesterday. Original plugs. Carbon build up. I only loosened them slowly and the pop right out. I don’t think the pb blaster does anything cuz it made the same sound with out it. I think loosening then and tightening them doesn’t work either. I just loosened them ever so slight till they came out. Mine is a 2005. Instant improvement on gas mileage. Couldn’t be happier
Glad it worked out! Maybe if mine went the same way I would not have ended up hating that car and fire saleing it for a huge loss.
I hear that the best way to deal with these plugs is to first add a full 16oz can of seafoam to about half tank of gas and use up that half tank that way seafoam helps break up the carbon from the combustion side then do the carb cleaner and pb blaster from the spark plug side I will unfortunately be trying this soon on my 3v 06 explorer because it has been showing signs of misfiring. I will be getting the extraction tool just in case. Truck only has 54k miles on it but its 14 years old so the low mileage might not help much
There are videos of people using an impact drill to remove these 2 piece plugs with successful results. I've use the impact method 2 times, and not a single one broke.
Thanks for the tip
I broke all 8 of mine off. The extraction tool that autozone let's you rent is trash. Ended up getting the one you have and I thankfully got them all out. What should've been a 30 minute job ended up taking 2 weeks lol
how many miles on the plugs? did you spray them with any penetrating oil first?
Thats a tough break but that plug design in those Ford engines are notorious for that. Hopefully this video will help prevent someone else from running into the same issue. Great honest video.
I am amazed how calm you are about it. I would be so mad. Unless you edited the cussing and swearing out of the video LOL.
Haha you know it. I collected myself before shooting.
Did mine recently to and I used deep creep (sea foam). I have used a lot of penetrating oils but none worked this good. My entire spark plug was soaked with the cleaner and I didn’t use a lot. I did warm my engine up and purchased a deep socket with a magnet from autozone. (Less then $10 I believe) and it was definitely worth the money.
i used deep creep also,,,didnt break one
@@robertswift6101do you apply sea foam after you disconnect the battery
@@dragon-bs9lm yes it did mine after
Bought my 05 GT used as the second owner at 60k miles... Car was upgraded a bit. Now at 108k miles, and still running awesome. Thinking to change out plugs, but I've got a feeling the original plugs were probably swapped out for performance plugs by the previous owner, and not yet due.
My question... how do I know what plugs are in my car without taking one out, possibly running the risk of snapping the OEM? I'm pretty sure the OEM wouldn't last 108k miles especially with my aggressive driving. That tells me I'm probably at least on my second set of plugs. Just my educated guess.
Any advice? I've changed plugs in my own in the past with other, cheaper, less performance cars, but VERY nervous about doing this on my '05 Mustang GT.
I've had good luck with zmax injection cleaning kit. It cooks the carbon and leaves a white ash residue that easily passes through the threads. Make sure to drive it a couple days after treatment before removing plugs
ooo man can you explain how you did it ?
@@miguelena40 Zmax is a kit you can buy at most auto parts stores. It has three bottles, one goes in the oil, one in the gas tank and the other is sucked through a vacuum line as the motor is running.
@@barthutchison4207 hey thank you very much
oh man this sounds like a pain in the rear,,,maybe soaking the spark plug in pb blaster and let it sit for a few hours or overnight might be better,,,i don't understand why you almost need a breaker bar just to get the spark plug out,,,,seems to be in there way to tight...I think I am just going to have the dealership do mine and not even mess with this.
just did mine today,,,,i used deep creep and let it sit 15 mins,,,probably should have let it sit over night but my mustang only has 48k miles on it,,,i did use fuel injector cleaner twice on 2 fill ups prior,,some say use sea foam,,,,i did not break the seal of the spark plugs before using deep creep,,,,worked it back and forth slowly and none of them broke,,,,,the plugs did have some carbon build up but not a lot,,,,ordered new spark plugs 1 pc deesign.
I’m so glad I happened upon this video. My f150 had the same problems with the plugs. I knew the plugs were these garbage multi piece ones so I had a guy do the job for me.... he broke every single plug and got glass into my engine and completely destroyed it. Of course he denied it and the truck was just a total loss... before I do my mustang plugs it’s nice to know that this problem is here as well. Thanks for al the tips. And so sorry to see your stang take that hit... you’d think plugs would be better made.
bro are you serious?? why didn’t you threaten to beat his ass or make him pay up or at least fuck his wife for destroying your truck that’s bs
i hear that the 3.8 essex v6 which came in some foxbodies and more commonly in the sn95 and new edge mustangs are notorious for this also
Avoid the long route of removing spark plugs. You need a nice and hot engine, Swivel Spark Plug Socket, extension and an impact gun. Make sure you are well aligned in the spark plug hole and zip it out. Prior to doing this job, clean the area very well before and after removing the spark plug. This is a tried and tested method and you cannot go wrong with that. Avoid the nightmare of broken spark plug on a cold engine. Good luck!!!
All well and good when it’s a properly designed spark plug. Not the goofy you know what that Ford designed for this engine and quietly replaced a couple years later. -U10
They are junk.
That's all there is to it.
this is my worst nightmare
I am fucking terrified to do
It but I am willing to try
Yeah i remember helping my friend change his spark plugs on his 04' F-150. Took us over 8 hours to do them all cause of the process. 6 ended up braking, but didn't have any issues when using the extractor. I do recommend turning on the engine and letting the metal heat up before removing each sparkplug. That was our thinking as to why we had issues on the last 6.
I was told never warm up ford engines before changing plugs do it coldl
@@lifeofdre707 Yes that's the case for your typical sparkplug change. Our engine just happened to be warm when we started the project and didn't have any issues removing the first 2 plugs. The next 6 broke. Our thinking was that since the plugs were hot it helped absorbe the penetrating spray better. Unfortunately we don't have another Ford with those spark plugs to test out our theory.
@@realawal54 the issue is they expand with heat and make it even more dangerous to remove. When I changed mine I sprayed pb blaster in the whole with the engine cold let it sit for a while then they all came out no issues, my issue was I didn't torque them down to spec I guessed..... bad decision 🚀😭
Hi. Silly question maybe. How do you remove the part of the spark plug that is stuck on the extraction tool?
Not a silly question at all 😀. I just took channel locks and grabbed onto the plug portion then screwed the tool off.
ohh! That could be what I was doing wrong, I have been trying to screw the plug off itself lol. Thank you!
Of course! Let me know how it goes.
In a weird sort of way i a glad you screwed it up so i can watch how you fix it before i have to end up going into this same project completely blind myself. Good luck and i hope you get it done without any further issues. Appreciate your videos without a doubt.
Hey man, if my pain can help others that works for me! Thanks for watching. 💪🏻
when installing the spark plugs u can cut a piece of a water hose and u can stick the spark plug in one end of the water hose and you can start the spark plug in the head it works good i have a mustang gt also thats how i start my spark plugs and take them out with the piece of water hose
Good tip!
Man, co worker of mine has the same mustang and had that happen about a month ago. $300 later and learned a lesson
Before attempting to remove the spark plugs run the engine for a few minutes to slightly warm the heads. Then remove the spark plugs. Since the head is aluminium it will expand more than the steel spark plug and the plug should turn out easier. Removing plugs on a fully hot or fully cold engine is a bad idea. Use antisieze on plug threads when reinstalling.
Hey you do a great job with being descriptive about these things
Thanks man! I try my best to get good information out there into the world. Thanks for watching. 👍🏻
I just had this problem with my 07 GT, got all the spark plugs out but pushed one too far and it broke, did you do a video of how you opened the cylinder heads and got it out?
Yes sir! I have a whole video series (5 in total) on disassembling the engine. Here is the first one: ruclips.net/video/z2LPPgiaElU/видео.html. At the end of each video you will see the next one as a recommended video.
This is some great tip's tks for sharring.Would this be the same on a 2015 Mustang ? My buddy broke 3 off in his stang. I can't believe how calm you are lol I would be spitin nails 👍
Haha, I was only calm on camera, trust me. I ended up doing a full rebuild because of this.
😂. It was only a problem on the S127’s and only for the first few years of them. They fixed it way before the 2015 model so don’t worry.
Do you need to use the spark plug instructor on a 4.0? I know that sounds stupid but still
Did you happen to have any plugs that just kept spinning when removing them? I got 4 out just fine using some deep creep and the back and forth method, one snapped in half on me, but now I’ve got 3 others that just keep turning and don’t want to come out. My first thought was stripped threads, but I’ve been reading and some people are saying that the center electrode might still be intact while the porcelain broke. Not exactly sure how to proceed. Was told to attempt to break the plug in half by force, that way, I could use the extractor tool.
That’s actually how one of mine broke. I ended up sliding the handle of a ratchet down and resting it diagonally on the terminal of the spark plug. Then I took a hammer and tapped the ratchet until the porcelain snapped.
I’ll give it a shot!
Sounds good. Also get a pair of needle nose pliers and try to pull the plug out first. The threaded piece could be lose already. It would make it easier to work on If that were out.
Got the spinners out with pliers to where they are just the normal broken plugs. Took a long time, but it paid off. So now I’ve got 4 I have to use the extractor kit on. 2 of the spinners came out with the entire electrode. First thought that comes to mind would be, does that make it easier, or potentially more dangerous when using the extractor kit because porcelain shards could more easily fall into the cylinder?
Harder for sure. Make sure all other holes are covered, protect your eyes, and spray compressed air in the spark plug hole before using the extractor.
could you turn over the engine with the spark plug out and the pressure from the cylinder would force the loose pieces out by means of pressure instead of removing the cylinder head? if i have to remove the heads i am just going to buy even better heads with a better design and high flowing if thats the case,,,money well spent
eh, I wouldn't risk it. if it does not make it out the hole on the first revolution then its going to damage the head, piston, valves, or god forbid the cylinder wall.
Another very informative video. Thank you so much for your videos. They're great!
Of course! You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Once the heads were off, how did you get the plugs out of the wells?
I didn’t, I extracted all of the plugs first.
Yikes. Good video. Definitely makes me rethink this diy project.
Yea, I would have either done it differently or hired it out if I had to do it again.
On my 04 mustang GT and my 14 mustang GT I never leave the spark plugs in the car longer than 20,000 miles and when I change my plugs I always use liquid wrench or wd 40 and soak it in 30 minutes and they just come right out 100,000 miles spark plugs will cook inside the head and it will become a problem getting them out and if you break them inside the head then you will probably have to take it to the dealership and they know this
Yea unfortunately I bought this thing with 100k on it and they never changed the plugs. SMH
That sucks I have 1st gen mustang and just came across this video apparently to do your own plugs now you have to have surgen like abilities
haha right on.
call me Dr. Ry!
25 ft-lb ( 34Nm) to torque the spark plugs on an aluminium cylinder head block ? It's huge !
The manual says 17Nm (13 ft-lb) for the 2009 MUSTANG.
Maybe that’s part of why they break apart in the cylinder head.
@@Rythecarguy i think you're right. it's overtorqued specs.
Maybe there is a correction from Ford about that crazy torque spec.
On this document it's also 34 Nm:
performanceparts.ford.com › ...PDF
M-6550-3V 4.6L 3V Camshafts ... - Ford Performance Parts
Same for 04 as well
By everything I've experienced I believe a cold engine is less likely to give you trouble when doing plugs.
👍🏻
Does the 08 v6 mustang have the same problem?
I don't believe so.
most of these guys always show you the ultra easy to access spark plug holes...not the ones on the 5.4 tritons, that are basically under the dash board..at least the last two on each side are way up in nightmare locations, not where you could use this extraction tool easy like this.. you even need a universal joint just to remove the plugs.
👍🏻
I have a 07 with 95k on it, replacing the power steering pump and spark plugs tomorrow, wish me luck.
God Speed brother!
how did it go?
@@robertswift6101 went good. Sprayer some Wd 40 down in each hole and let it sit for 5 mins and then used a half inch drive gun to take them out and all of them came out easy .
how do i even know what maintence tha car needs.. and if the dealers are lying to me
You can easily tell when someone who works at dealership is lying. It’s when their mouth is moving. 🤣
JK (sorta), check your manual. It should tell you at what mileage you would normally need the maintenance. If they are saying you need something at 40,000 miles and your manual is saying to do it at 120,000 then ask them to show you why you need it. Or ask what symptom your car is showing that would justify that maintenance/repair. Then observe it yourself and make a determination.
Oh man, you poor soul... thanks so much for sharing the vid! I'd have probably done the same thing...
Thanks for watching!
This is why you stick with the 1999-2004 Mustang V8, it has the more reliable and durable two-valve motor. You can say the same thing about the trucks with the 5.4L motor.
Dont worry, I just got rid of it and I won't be getting any mustang again. I have had my fill.
do you know if the 2010 gt have the same problem ?
I believe they worked it out on the 08 model but I could be wrong.
@@Rythecarguy thank you , very much your video was awesome
@@Rythecarguy the reason why I saw your video is because I want an idea to do it my self next weekend and after this wow I will keep investigating .thanks again
Hey I did it on my 2010 mustang gt a had no problems. Just turned the car and let it run for 10min turned it off sprayed some people blaster in every spark plug let it boil for a couple minutes then started unscrewing them. They come off like butter. The pb blaster sure is the trick. When putting them back make sure to put anti sieze so you never have to worry about that nightmare. Took me only 40min to do all spark plugs
@@jonathanluna1069 thank you very much buddy i definitelly will do it my self , i like to work on.v my cars always but i did t know about this nightmare , thank you again
All apart of the game my boy! Reason for more mods!
For sure. Loads of work but it will be worth it. Thinking of picking up new timing chain guides, new cams for some better performance, and if I’m taking off the heads I might as well get some long tube headers.
@@Rythecarguy get new heads also
Ford be smoking that crack in the engineering break room
That little bit of porcelain and that tang being in engine are ok. its an “acceptable repair” by ford if that happens the motor just blows them out.
Not always. It can easily get caught in a valve.
So we’ll just act like there isn’t a noose in the garage lol
Hahaha yea it was a weird choice for the last owners to make. That’s what you pull on to get the attic stairs to come down.
hell it needed new head gaskets anyway
Why would you go with the OEM Motorcraft plug instead of a one piece replacement from someone like Champion?? You’re setting yourself up for the same problem again.
Because Motorcraft fixed the problem with the plugs.
This just happened to me
Pissis me off Ford made a plug like this and now you can get it corrected should be a recall on the heads
Agreed!
Hold on a sec.Ry,are you trying to tell me,that Ford made spark plug treads little to long,or head tread to short,which is the same in this case,so part of the tread sticks out inside the combustion chamber?That sounds tune up proof design!!! Carbon build up will prevent the plug to come out on its on,or brake the plug when you try to change them!!! Briliant!!! BTW i was sarcastic,man.Sorry that happend to you,but it looks like design flaw.
Huge design flaw. Needed to be a recall for sure. Now I’m basically disassembling my entire motor to make sure I don’t damage it. Just insane.
Ry the car guy Wait, did you try to bring this cylinder toTDC by rotating the engine by hand,and then vacum the debrees?
Sounds crazy to pull the heads off the motor just because of stupid enginering mistake,sorry for my english,i’m ukrainian.
@@volodymyrbuchak1852 Yes, I tried everything. I could not get anything out.
Ry the car guy fire it up with no plug in
that shitt should be covered in most states under a LEMON LAW
Unreal, all for changing plugs
Yep. Insane right?
ooooof good thing i got a 2009 gt
to hell with that .. Im gonna pull that junk out and put a thirty two valve coyote block in it
Oh hey the predecessor to taking apart engine. Oof..
Yep, what a joy that was. 🤣
This sucks im taking mine to the shop LOL
What did the shop charge you? I mean if they break it, they just add additional labor charges. Overall a losing situation for the owner... :(
Hey man how did taking your car to the shop go? I’ve been putting off doing my spark plugs for the longest time because I’m so worried about them breaking on me, but I’m also worried about taking it to a shop because I feel like if a piece of the plug breaks off into the engine, they’ll just start the car and let it fly out the exhaust valve. Either way I feel like I’m fucked
Why would ford make such a stupid design for plugs?
I don’t know. I cannot believe it.
@@Rythecarguy maybe they did it so you have to take it in to them for service and the charge you a bunch of money to do it cause they had to take apart everything
4.6 is the biggest piece of shit ever built.
When and if i get this shit done i am trading it in for a Camaro with an LS.
Modular engines are junk.
Can't really argue with you on that.
You put anti seize on your spark plugs?
Nooooooò
Desperate times call for desperate measures
The slow and gently approach was the exact opposite of how to take them out. Spray them with Blaster and hit them with an impact. The quick jolt of torque takes them right out with no issues. Use nickel anti seize and only put it on the lower shoulder. Torque to 13 foot pounds not 25. You obviously didn't know the proper way to do the job and this is the result. Wrong tool operation, wrong torque specs, wrong anti seize, wrong approach!
Thanks, captain hindsight. If you were only around three years ago. What would
I do with you!!