This video was a lifesaver for me, especially with your tip to turn the camshaft pulley a tooth a head when applying the new timing belt to give enough slack to get it on. I'm in my early 20s learning to home mechanic work myself, and your videos have been really big to help me in that, thank you!
Great presentation with steady camera and step-by-step explanation. I was able to do the entire job on my 1997 Camry. Runs like a champ. Please show "How to replace the Fuel Injectors" for the same car !!
Thanks for your post and good idea! Easiest way to get to the injectors is to first remove the valve cover. Afterwards, the injectors are in your face and the fuel rail is held on by only two 10mm bolts. But you're right ... I should make a video on it!
Based on your great presentation, I was able to do the timing belt job on my 4 cyl. with 185000 miles - 97 Camry in 2019. The RPM is 2000 when engine is cold. It them relaxes to 750 RPM in 4 minutes, before I put it in gear. Is the high RPM normal after doing this job ? I think I read in your comment somewhere that when the timing marks are perfectly aligned, the RPM is high and this is expected. Thanks.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your prompt response. I wonder if your expertise offers a solution to the high rpm. Except for that high rpm, the car runs like a champ, super quiet and smooth.
I find your way of tensioning the timing belt to be the most effective. In many other videos they rotate the crank 1 7/8 turn then tighten the tensioner bolt. Tried that and was a bit to loose for me to feel comfortable. You can also use a pry bar to get the tensioner a little tighter then just the spring does alone. I would also recommend starting the engine without the plastic covers like you did and rev it a few times to make sure you your belt is not flopping around. This method worked for me, thanks
Thanks. I've found the engine start method results in the optimum tension on the belt. Had to revisit and retension using the rotate the crank method. Also belt slack can lead to premature belt breakage.
Appreciate the video man! I thought my leak was from the cam seal. After putting everything back on. Turns out it was the oil pump seal!! ROUND # 2!!!!
Good catch and glad you found this video helpful! It could be a combination of the oil pump cover gasket and the pump shaft seal. Recommend you replace both. The cover gasket can also be replaced with RTV in lieu of a rubber replacement gasket. FYI - Check out my other videos on the Camry. To support our channel and receive notifications of new videos, please subscribe!
I also learned the hard way, it pays if you are changing the water pump, timing belt, cam seal, crankshaft seal, tension pulley and pulley every 70,000 miles, go ahead and spend the extra $10 and buy the oil pump seal and gasket. You are already there and it takes about 30 more minutes to replace them also. My oil pump gasket started leaking at about 230,000 miles, right after doing the water pump and timing belt thing the third time. Lost a quart of oil going to work (5 miles), saw oil under car before going home, added a quart of oil, went home lost one quart of oil going home. That was on a Thursday, added one quart to make it to work on Friday, added one quart to stop by AutoZone to buy oil pump seal, gasket and make it home from work. Spent most of Sat. geting to and replacing the oil pump seal and gasket.
Best video so far!!! just did mine and the running the car before putting the plastic covers was a great idea. belt loosened, turned the cam pulley counterclockwise, loosened the tensioner re-tightened, and got rid of the slack. thanks my friend!
Thank you brother. I seen other videos but this one is the best👏 Because of this video and how detail and clear everything is I will be doing my water pump kit on my own this weekend..Thanks again
Great to see somebody using the same tools I used to do this same job. In my case someone who did the previous belt had loctited on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley. I wanted to change the crank seal and had to drill and tap two holes in the timing belt pulley in order to remove it. I guess some pulleys have these holes, but mine did not. Heat from a propane torch had to be used to get it to start moving. Without it I broke off the head of the puller and therefore the need for the heat.
Wow thank you! You made this seem a whole lot easier than what I was thinking lol, doing oil pump and diagnosing an oil leak I have from that area thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro When replacing the oil pump seals and putting the pump back in , do you need to prime the oil pump by packing grease or Vasoline in the rotor cavity?
@@rickrick9783 Nope ... not at all. When replacing the O ring rubber seal, make sure matting surfaces is clean of any oil residue. Brake cleaner solvent works well. Coat the o ring groove with some RTV then mount the o ring. This will ensure a leak free seal that will last longer than the original seal that dry rotted. Wiggle and twist the oil pump shaft onto the block and eventually the pump will snap in place.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Could be clogged fuel injectors. Suggest you replace injectors with rebuilds or do a direct fuel injector cleaning service like this video: ruclips.net/video/pz4R_IN232M/видео.html
@10:15 DO NOT use a steal brush to clean that mating surface. You can scratch that machine fit and cause a small oil leak that would be essentially impossible to stop. At the very least use a brass brush but I wouldn't even recommend using that. Just use a nylon brush or just clean it off yourself with brake cleaner and a rag.
Incorrect. There's nothing wrong with using a medium abrasion rotary wire brush on an angle. Removes both paper element and aluminum oxidation residue. My peer mechanics and I do it all the the time as standard-operating-procedure (SOP). Provides a complete leak free seal. The big no-no is using sand paper.
Amazing video, this just walked me through the whole process. Camera angles were as good as it gets, instructions were clear and concise. I wish every how to video was made this well. Thank you for making and sharing this!!!!!!
Nice video -- what happened at 18:33 can sometimes be avoided by the following a different tensioning procedure for this engine (5SFE) and the very similar 3SFE engines, as well as some other belt-timed Toyota engines. The process is to install the tensioner spring before installing the belt, and to tack down the tensioner pulley at 45 BTDC cylinder 1 after ascertaining that timing is correct, following a particular series of steps This is the procedure from the Toyota FSM. It is a little unusual, but it works, and it helps to avoid the situation you guys faced in having to re-tension the belt. This procedure is shown in this other video from Ratchets and Wrenches Channel, if you skip to the 03:26 mark in his video, you can see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/ZKHOOU6ZV-Y/видео.html Thanks for posting your video, too, since you show the seal replacement but R&W doesn't. I just though I'd let you guys know in case you have another job like this one -- it can save you some time. I've done the 45 BTDC on a 3SFE and it works great for tacking that tensioner down just right. Thanks again.
Thanks for your post ... but been there, done that and doesn't work for some reason with all replacement belts (Gates, Dayco, Continental, Mitsuboshi, ITM, etc.). Use to do the 2 full rotation method and the belt still became loose after starting the engine (of course after buttoning everything up and having to remove everything again). Starting the engine does a better job of seating the belt with hundreds of rotations instead of 2 rotations. And its always good to verify your work by observing the belt rotation while the engine is running to look for belt wobble (indicating a loose belt). Don't agree with stretching/maxing out the tensioner spring BEFORE putting on the belt. What's the big deal putting on the spring AFTER the belt is on? Also, there's indication that there's a oil leak from either the cam seal, crank seal and/or oil pump housing seal that he hasn't addressed (which will result in a premature belt snap when oil gets on the belt), there's no way the water pump will last to the next service interval unless he replaces it now, and he's putting on the belt with both the cam and crank at the TDC mark which I've found most techs I've trained have difficulty doing (most especially with newbies). You just advance the cam one cog, mount the belt then set the cam back to the TDC mark ... simple and easy. This is what I've learned after doing over a hundred timing belt jobs and dealing with customer "come backs". Again, thanks for your post!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I agree that R&W should have replaced more parts while he was in there, but maybe the customer couldn't afford it or it was his own junker, I don't know. I linked that vid because he shows the little 45 BTDC mark, which is hard to describe without a picture. I know that process doesn't always work, but it has worked for me, so I thought I would share it! Thanks again for the video.
After installing the timing belt and removing slack. Im noticing that the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned right. But the camshaft mark IS NOT IN ALIGNMENT. ITS CONSISTENLY FORWARD BY 2 inches or so...again this is when the harmonic balancer is at the zero mark. Is this okay?
When you're saying 2 inches, are your referring to the protruding tab on the camshaft pulley or the hole in the camshaft pulley that suppose to align with the vertical notch?
@@hardlymovingpro Im referring to the 'camshaft gear'...the camshaft gear hole is past the camshaft vertical notch/camshaft seal area. ie. on every 2nd complete 360 degree turn of the crankshaft gear...the camshaft hole is at 1 o' clock versus the camshaft vertical mark which is 12 0'clock. I want to know can the car still run okay despite this?
I can tell that the camshaft marks are off because I made marks with white out before installing the belt. I have not tried to start the engine yet either.
@@SuperHtownswag It's a non interference engine meaning there won't be any potential valve damage if out of alignment. Also, if not aligned, you'll get a DTC code indicating camshaft position error.
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
Is it possible to remove without the power tool? Or will the pulley just spin using a normal socket wrench? Or, in my case would I leave the belts in place first to keep the tension on the pulley so it doesn't spin when I'm trying to remove it?
Is the amazon link for the evergreen kit with aisin water pump and misubishi belt in the description still good? Amazon says it wont fit but the title and description says it does. No reviews unfortunately
The oil pumps on these engines leak a lot sooner than 200k miles. And no, domt goop up your oil pump with silicone sealant, thats a bad idea. Just get oem seals for the thing and reseal it correctly.
Nicely done. I would tell people to go ahead and take the alternator and power steering reservoir off. easier to reach the bolts, which are still tricky.
Wouldn't hurt. Just a couple of extra steps. Recommend you first drain the PS fluid by detaching the hose bracketed to the sub frame below the crank pulley.
TY for this nice video and sorry for my bad english on advance. I have this exact same engine on my toyota celica 2.2gts, and just broke my timing belt past week while my car was not moving, it just stopped working while i was stopped. Ive been told that repair would be around 2000€ and i was just wondering if u think it would be worth tryin gto repair it or just buying another engine or even another car. Thank you very much!
Definitely fix it yourself! No need to get another engine (and that's a lot of work!). Most belt breakage, from what I've seen, is due to worn out idler, guide and water pump bearings. This causes bearing wobble which over stresses the belt. So replace the belt with the bearings and water pump.
@@hardlymovingpro TYVM my friend, thats what i needed to hear xD im in love with my car and would completely hate to get rid of it, ill see your videos and ill try my best to get it fixed! TY!
Hi i have 2000 camry 5s engine. Same problem with my car when start it in the morning its making noise comming from timing belt cover i feel that belt is hitting to the cover but after engine warm its reduce the noise i changed timing belt with new koyo and NSK bearings japan. After changing all these it was ok but after 2 months the same noise comming from the timing belt cover. I am suggested to find a little bigger bearing in diameter to not to listen the noise. So what can i do? What will be the best sollution? Should i find a little bigger bearing that should be 60mm in diameter instead of original 57mm diameter? And which brand belt should i use for this? As before i used mitsuboshi & sun brand belt?
Had a similar problem about a year ago. Appeared to be belt stretch. I took the tb covers off, removed the excess slack and buttoned it back up. Been running fine since then. Belt slap all gone during warm up. Problem caused by not using OEM Mitsubishi belt?
Absolutely. We techs at the shop do it all the time. Do not, however, use sand paper. That is too abrasive and WILL result in a poor seal. If you want, you can break in the brush by wire brushing against concrete. This will get the wires oriented in the direction of the rotation.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, I meant cleaning the old gasket off the mount. I ruined an intake manifold using a grinder with plastic abrasive pads. But that was aluminum. So, I always cringe when I see someone using a wire wheel like that. Good tip about the cement! Also, your video was great - one of the best so far.
Nice man. I think its funny, I look at my repair manual, and it wants me to open the top of the engine, drop the oil pan, remove all coolant, and the AC, just do to do this, yet all I want to do is the Timing belt and the water pump, just like you. Why would i need to remove the oil pan (which means draining the engine) and the coolant?
@@hardlymovingpro probably haynes, and maybe 50% of youtubers who have also replaced timing belts on this exact same engine. I agree seems wayy too much.
It's called a "Chain Strap Wrench". You should be able to buy one from any hardware store. They come in different length handles. Use your search engine with the search words "Chain strap wrench for sale" and you will get a lot of hits. There are good deals on Ebay and Amazon. I have a video on all the different types you can use. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/h1kKlCkmfT0/видео.html
I like videos with some issues that happens in the process of removing, installing or any other inconvenience so I can realize and learn from my own mistakes. thank you sr for sharing this tutorial.
That seal remover for the camshaft seal will still scratch up the shaft surface. I could never get the seal removed that way. The way I do it for the camshaft is to take the pulley off, remove the two bolts for the camshaft cap and push that seal from the inside out. Insert new seal and reinstal.
Ok so I had to fix the oil pump leak. Fitted new pump vanes, seal and spaghetti o ring. Also fitted new timing belt. Turned engine over checking belt timing. All seemed ok. All timing marks lined up. Finished reassembling all the bits and pieces. Started engine idles fine. New oil pump worked perfect. My problim is that when doing test drive the car seemed sluggish from standstill Ran ok at speed. I am thinking I have the timing belt out 1 tooth. Anyone have an opinion on my dilemma.
No check engine light showing. I am going to put my timing light on to see if that shows anything. To my way of thinking the ignition timing would be out slightly if the cam timing is out seeing as the dizzy runs off the camshafts.
So I just checked the ignition timing. Bridged the terminals in the computer plug te1 to e1. Ignition timing is.just retarded of TDC when it should be at 10deg BTDC. I must have the belt 1 tooth wrong.
As always you have an excellent video. You show things other channels don't, and what you show makes a lot of sense. Thanks! I have five Toyotas (1998,2001,2001,2004,2017) and I always turn to you for your advise.
@@hardlymovingpro I believe the timing belt slipped and it jumped time, whenever I line up the cam the crank is off and vice versa it's the same engine as in your camry the 5SFE if this happened to you how would you go about realigning it
I'm sure you've already figured out yours but I'm writing this for the next guy that has the same issue. Take the belt off and line them up separately. After they're both lined up, put the belt on again making sure marks on camshaft and crankshaft stay lined up. The misalignment usually happens when you turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions. This is when belt tends to jump a tooth or two because the spring doesn't put enough tension on belt. In order to avoid this, after installing the belt with everything lined up, pull up on tensioner pulley to put extra tension on the belt, hold it there and tighten tensioner bolt. Don't torque to 31 ft-lbs yet. Just tighten it enough so tensioner doesn't move. Now make sure all teeth from water pump drive pulley, camshaft pulley, and crankshaft sprocket are engaged with grooves in belt. If you have to do more work to engage any of them, you have to check timing marks on both camshaft and crank again. Once all this is good, rotate crankshaft exactly 2 revolutions and verify timing marks on both shafts are lined up. If they are, now make sure there is more tension on the part of the belt that's facing the front of the car than on the part of the belt that's facing the rear of the car. If that's good you can now torque the tensioner bolt to 31 ft-lbs. Some people loosen the tensioner bolt at this point so that the only tension on the belt is from the spring and then they torque it to 31 ft-lbs. I do NOT loosen it and then torque it. I just torque it because the first few times I loosened it and then torqued it, the belt would come a little loose and rattle so I would have to do the job again. I've never had any problems with it being too tight because you can't put that much tension with one hand and I've never had one break. I have always replaced them due to mileage (90,000 miles) not breakage.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks I just did the timing belt water pump on my Avalon with the OneMZFE used your other video for instruction it was great I ended up using a piece of PVC pipe and a small hammer for the seals
Got a 97 Celica with the 5sfe. Water pump weeping. Has 230, 000 miles. This is a job I am going to tackle myself so watching as many videos on it as possible to find out as many tricks and tips as possible to make the job easier. I intend to change the TB, auxiliary belts and of course the water pump. Was wondering if it was worth replacing the oil pump gaskets also or anything else you can think of? Thanks.
Can I ask you something I don't quite understand about your crank/cam alignment (I'm not trying to corner or offend you or anything, I just don't get this one thing you did). You made orange marks as reference points on the crank gear. Why didn't you just use the V mark on the gear and the timing nub behind it that are already there for this very purpose? Is it because they are hard to see or you didn't know about them? Or was there some other reason? Again, I'm not trying to corner you. It's just that if you didn't know about them, maybe the teacher that told me he set my crank/cam alignment didn't know about them either. If you didn't know about him, I'd feel more comfortable asking him if he knows about them tomorrow when he looks at it. It sort of a touchy situation for me to tell the teacher he doesn't know something that I do know, especially since I haven't done this job before, if ya get my drift?
You're correct with your first assumption. I use paint marks for quick and easy visual reference for both myself while personally working on a customer's car and for you guys watching the video.
Amazing video still to this day better than 90% of the others out there well I guess 100% of the others out there cuz I haven't found anything better on this thanks man this is better than anything else. So helpful I don't pick up thing from reading a manual 🤣
Nice work surprised you didn't do the oil pump o ring and seal. I think that's my problem. I have to remove most of this stuff to do it. You show doing that very well.
Questions: which you can answer - at 12:28 m, what exactly is your "seal installation tool"? At 14:50, are you replacing the seal for the whole oil pump as well or just the section with o-ring?
At the 12:28 mark, I'm using the KTC brand seal installation tool. If you go to the "show more" section of this video, I provide a Amazon link to view or purchase the tool. I made a separate video for replacing the oil pump cover and shaft seal. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/_tsAtyOGpaQ/видео.html I also did another video on tools used for seal replacement: ruclips.net/video/KUSIZs2b4Ck/видео.html And here's a video showing how I used a seal installation kit to install new seals in a Mitsubishi 3000GT: ruclips.net/video/FTp_tVXSbqU/видео.html
@@hardlymovingpro it was definitely tricky putting the engine back on the mount. i had to to use 2 jacks and push one jack at a time to align the mount. thanks for the vid. looking back, i only switched 2 pulley and missed the tensioner pulley...not looking forward to doing this again. did you use two, separate long 2x4 and raised the engine by the oil pan, and transmission pan? my oil pan got dented, but that was my fault
Could be the camshaft oil seal. The seal lip can turn inside out if you push the seal in to hard. I prefer to spin them on until flush with the engine then use my press tool.
@hardlymovingpro aw thanks man. Turn out it was the oil pump pulley seal..... I only used an impact to screw the pulley bolt back on at first, but this time used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and torqued it down to like 20 ft pound.
I got both new tensioner pulley and idler, when I try to turn them by hands they barely spin 180 degrees. They are aftermarket branded. Normal or should I just reuse the one on the car ? (They spin more than freely)
Sounds like something is wrong with those new pulleys. You should replace the old pulleys with new ones with the new timing. Go to rockauto.com to get decent aftermarket pulleys.
@hardlymovingpro Gotcha yeah good call thank you. I was able to find the seal puller, a chain wrench and even the cam seal tool you're using in this video. I got an aftermarket water pump sitting at home but read the reviews ( "Ultra Power" ) branded and some guy said it broke after 3 months so now I am more than skeptical installing it
the dealer accidentally ordered Japanese or Chinese oil seals instead of us soil crank seal fortunately yhe other parts person picked up on that and straitened it out he said that the crank seal would not fit right
Using a long handle 1/2" socket wrench. With the handle of the wrench secured to the ground and the socket square on the bolt, turn over the engine (like as if starting the car) for less than a second. The torque from the starter motor might spin the bolt off.
@@hardlymovingpro I was able to remove it using its belt routed to the AC compressor using it like a wrench strap sorta thing. Now I need a pulley puller....
Good video 📹👍very detailed 👌 what brand timing belt did you use? for this job, or what brand do you recommend? I bought a car with 226,000 mi. All be changing the seals the cam is leaking. Might as well do the timing job too. And see how long the car 🚗can last.
Good idea to reference a technical manual or book on this vehicle (with the torque specs) before taking on this type of job. Recommend a Haynes manual.
This vid was done a few years back, I know, but it’s really good stuff! The funny thing is I watched it twice before I realized the video engine is a 5SFE and I have the 3SFE. I’m old, it’s okay. I learned a lot!
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for that! I did a bit of research and came to that conclusion. Also, thanks for the list of tools I just ordered from Amzn.
From what source of information,that tells you,it’s a non interference engine,because I have a 2010 pilot, with a broken timing belt. Please specify... thanks
It's a wire brush attached to a air powered right angle drill. Does quick work on removing paper element gasket residue as well as prep the surface for a new gasket. Warning: Do Not Use Sandpaper to prep the mounting surface.
1st of all this is an excellent timing belt video. I couldn't have asked for a better one, but I think this job will be left to a mechanic. 2nd is not timing belt related so I understand if you don't waste your time but also really hope you do. I watched this about 10 times to get the answer for myself but its going to take more knowledge than that. I'm trying to diagnose a valve cover leak vs a camshaft seal leak . The visible oil is all over the back of the engine. (I did the valve cover already and its still leaking is the reason I'm looking into camshaft seal.) If I wanted to rule out cam shaft seal leak could I do that by removing the dogbone mount and the upper timing bolt cover and nothing else? Wouldn't the oil be on the cam pulley and the black plate that backs it? Please and thank you!
When replacing the valve cover gasket, did you remove old RTV and put ultra black silicone RTV in the 8 places the book calls out for? If you did, then check if the oil is coming from camshaft seal by removing the parts you pointed out above. If it's coming from the camshaft seal, you will see it. There's also a black 2 inch round plastic plug on the driver's side of valve cover that also leaks, so check that too. It's behind the mount for ignition coils.
Great Video. Suggest you give torque info and more tool wrench size info. (or not). when you put the water ump back on did you use a new gasket? Saw you clean things up, but thought I just saw the part put on, no gasket. Sorry if I misse that. Again, great video, the best one on this I've seen. THANK YOU!
Thanks for your comment in your post. Yes... The new water pump gasket was installed around the 10:30 mark. Torque specs can be obtained from a technical service manual specific to this car which I recommend to all DIY mechanics.
This video was IMMENSELY helpful. I've got a cold-engine whine coming from under the timing cover that I have to deal with and the timing belt is due anyway so I asked my mechanic to draw up an estimate to do all this stuff...aaaaand pretty much had a heart attack. I work on my own car all the time and have a decent set of tools, but this was a bit more than I usually would take on. After watching your video, I know I can totally do this. I've already started ordering some of the specialty tools I'll need. Checking your other vids, too. Thanks, brother.
Good for you! Highly recommend you get yourself name brand idler and tensioner pulleys for long term life (i.e. GMB or Koyo). Same applies for the water pump (Aisin or GMB). Good luck!
The pully with the spring is a tensioner and to adjust the timing belt those cars usually have a pointer and also have a a access hole in the cover for adjusting the timing belt
Maybe but I prefer to see the belt moving with the cover off to determine the right amount of tension. I found the belt being a little loose makes a difference with respect to engine lag.
I know nobody asked but on the bypass filtration info....most significant engine wear occurs from particles less that 5 microns in size. The full flow filter, even the best one, because it has to maintain high oil pressure, really only filters at 95% efficiency down to about 15 or 20 microns. When you run bypass filtration, you bleed around 10% of the oil flow through a nearly infinitely more dense filter, and at a much slower flow rate. This allows nearly 99% efficiency down to nearly 1 micron. By removing these particles you get a many fold benefit: 1. Significantly reduced engine wear. 2. Greater efficiency in terms of heat exhange and mechanical efficiency as the oil is now, basically, clean. You aren't paying to move particulates in the oil around your engine at 2,000 to 4,000 rpms . The weight of the oil is only slightly higher with all the crap in it, but because it has to be moved at such high speeds, , this is a large energy cost. When you remove all the particulates, it takes far less energy to move that oil. 3. Always clean, warm oil will remove varnish and other gunk from the oil flow paths, keeping tolerances as new as possible minus any prior wear. 4. Analytically clean oil from mile 0 of oil change to the next filter change interval. Without bypass filtration, the oil just gets dirtier as you drive until you do a full change, the repeats the process of particulate contamination. 5. Oil changes are basically the bypass filter, and whatever oil was still in the filter at the change. 6. Oil analysis can confirm the proper installation and performance of a bypass filter, as well when to do a complete oil change. I do the full change on this camry about 2x per year, and put about 30k miles per year on this car. While the bypass filter element can absorb about 6 oz of water, any more than that and the oil will turn acidic, and no filter yet can change that. So analysis would tell you that, but I just use 6 to 12 month intervals.
Bypass filters are pretty much standard on diesel engines because of all the soot build up. Had an Amsoil bypass filter on my pickup truck around 20 years ago and it worked on the principals you had previously outlined ... which I agree with. But I came to realize that although the filter can help protect the engine from wear and tear in the long run, everything else that surrounds the engine wears out: alternators, starters, sensors, radiators, ac compressors, condensers, suspension parts, timing chains, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel pump, fuel injectors, valve stem seals, exhaust system components, transmission components, door lock, window regulators, bearings, etc...that unless you can do the repair yourself, for the average owner they'll trash the car. So if the engine runs okay with synthetic oil changes every 6k miles or so, why bother with the time and effort using a bypass filter for that extra level of engine wear protection? For the cost of an oil analysis, I can do another synthetic oil change. A failed transmission cost as much to replace as a worn out engine to replace. Also, I can get a reman 5SFE engine for around $1K and swap the engine out in a day.
Its a personal choice. Ive run the numbers and have a car, at the end of the day, that is still running strong at 335,000 miles plus. It cost less than 22 cent per mile to drive including gas. (I purchased it used at 65,000 miles). So based on how I like to spend money it has worked very well for me. I believe, in addition to an amazingly excellent design and manufacturing process of the camry 5fse, that excellent filtration contributed greatly to the low cost of ownership of this vehicle.
@@orthopraxis235 The 5SFE was and still is a great engine ... but you should check out the specs on Toyota's newer I4 engines. The horsepower gains along with the fuel economy is nothing less than amazing! Also their transmissions ... 8 speeds. A standard Camry rides like a Lexus 20 years ago. I drove a late model Camry recently as was blown away. Incredibly smooth, powerful and quiet! You can barely tell the transmission is shifting.
Shaking is a motor out of tune. Smoking ... depends on what color. White coolant with due to a blown head gasket, black for fuel burn (fuel injectors?) and blue is oil burn (blown head gasket, worn oil rings, main bearings, valve stem seals).
@@ryanhughes5731 If during initial start up during a cold day and the smoke disappears, then it's moisture evaporation in the muffler as the car warms up ... otherwise, blown head gasket. Check your coolant level to confirm. If low, add coolant to radiator and reservoir. Start car and watch for air bubbles in the reservoir. If bubbling ... blown head gasket.
Hi HMP. It was interesting to see that while the belt looked reasonably tight after attaching the spring and tightening the tensioner, after running the engine it became quite loose. It looks like you should run the car to get all slack from the belt. Some cars though require the rocket cover to be removed and so running the car may not be possible unless you put the car together beforehand. What methods are there in addition to running the car that effectively tightens the belt so you don’t have to retighten later. Thanks
Conventional instructions is to rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and then re-tension. My preference is to start the engine. On Honda's older I4, I loosely place the value cover back on before I start the car so that oil won't go spraying all over the place.
Thank you for your reply. I agree absolutely. I recently replaced a belt in a Mazda 323 “Miata” FWD using conventional manual method. Relied on spring to make the required tension, rotated by hand several times to check and the belt remained visually tight. Closed everything up and the car went well for about 3000km before the belt failed and let me stranded. I predict that the belt became loose quickly and survived for a while before it finally failed. As you’ve shown, you cannot rely on the spring to provide the correct tension and you must run the engine to bed the belt in to eliminate any hidden areas of slack. The unfortunate experience knocked my confidence a bit (I’m an amateur trying to learn) but it was an important lesson well learned and it’s so very crucial to follow your procedure for adequate tensioning. Unfortunately the Mazda was no longer needed by family so it was scrapped. So bit sad to see it go. Will try again on the other family cars including my 98 Camry at a later date. Thank you again for your kind effort posting such interesting and helpful videos. A truly excellent and enjoyable channel. Regards Craig.
Great video! Thank you for posting. It helped a lot with my efforts to replace timing belt and water pump. Just wish I had an air impact wrench for that crankshaft bolt.
Thanks for your post, comments and support! You can always use an inexpensive ac electric 1/2" impact driver attached to a high mass impact socket. Worked for me when my 18v electric battery impact driver gave out.
This video was a lifesaver for me, especially with your tip to turn the camshaft pulley a tooth a head when applying the new timing belt to give enough slack to get it on. I'm in my early 20s learning to home mechanic work myself, and your videos have been really big to help me in that, thank you!
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing!
I learned alot of what I know from working on old Camrys, corollas and Buicks. And a Jaguar xj8.😁
@@hardlymovingpro QUESTION. Is it normal the oil pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley aren't 100% aligned ?
Awesome!!!! The best video step by step I’ve seen in a long time. Thanks man !!!
Glad you liked it and thanks for your comment and support!
@@hardlymovingpro l LJ
I have a 91 celica gT with same engine so now I know what needs to be done cause their basically the same car. Thanks buddy great video
Thanks for your post!
Thank you very much you’re very smart this video is so useful appreciate your job
Glad you liked it and hope you'll find it useful!
Great presentation with steady camera and step-by-step explanation. I was able to do the entire job on my 1997 Camry. Runs like a champ. Please show "How to replace the Fuel Injectors" for the same car !!
Thanks for your post and good idea! Easiest way to get to the injectors is to first remove the valve cover. Afterwards, the injectors are in your face and the fuel rail is held on by only two 10mm bolts. But you're right ... I should make a video on it!
Thanks for making such a detailed video for a novice mechanic. It really helps with my dyslexia and those mouse pointers are needed
Thanks bro.. I know this video is a few years old but just wanted to say thanks.. this video helped out very much step by step on my 99 camry 👍😁
Glad it helped you out!
Based on your great presentation, I was able to do the timing belt job on my 4 cyl. with 185000 miles - 97 Camry in 2019. The RPM is 2000 when engine is cold. It them relaxes to 750 RPM in 4 minutes, before I put it in gear.
Is the high RPM normal after doing this job ?
I think I read in your comment somewhere that when the timing marks are perfectly aligned, the RPM is high and this is expected. Thanks.
High rpm's is normal during cold engine start up. 2000 rpm's, however, does seem a little high.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for your prompt response. I wonder if your expertise offers a solution to the high rpm. Except for that high rpm, the car runs like a champ, super quiet and smooth.
I find your way of tensioning the timing belt to be the most effective. In many other videos they rotate the crank 1 7/8 turn then tighten the tensioner bolt. Tried that and was a bit to loose for me to feel comfortable. You can also use a pry bar to get the tensioner a little tighter then just the spring does alone. I would also recommend starting the engine without the plastic covers like you did and rev it a few times to make sure you your belt is not flopping around. This method worked for me, thanks
Thanks. I've found the engine start method results in the optimum tension on the belt. Had to revisit and retension using the rotate the crank method. Also belt slack can lead to premature belt breakage.
Appreciate the video man! I thought my leak was from the cam seal. After putting everything back on. Turns out it was the oil pump seal!! ROUND # 2!!!!
Good catch and glad you found this video helpful! It could be a combination of the oil pump cover gasket and the pump shaft seal. Recommend you replace both. The cover gasket can also be replaced with RTV in lieu of a rubber replacement gasket. FYI - Check out my other videos on the Camry. To support our channel and receive notifications of new videos, please subscribe!
I also learned the hard way, it pays if you are changing the water pump, timing belt, cam seal, crankshaft seal, tension pulley and pulley every 70,000 miles, go ahead and spend the extra $10 and buy the oil pump seal and gasket. You are already there and it takes about 30 more minutes to replace them also. My oil pump gasket started leaking at about 230,000 miles, right after doing the water pump and timing belt thing the third time. Lost a quart of oil going to work (5 miles), saw oil under car before going home, added a quart of oil, went home lost one quart of oil going home. That was on a Thursday, added one quart to make it to work on Friday, added one quart to stop by AutoZone to buy oil pump seal, gasket and make it home from work. Spent most of Sat. geting to and replacing the oil pump seal and gasket.
Best video so far!!! just did mine and the running the car before putting the plastic covers was a great idea. belt loosened, turned the cam pulley counterclockwise, loosened the tensioner re-tightened, and got rid of the slack. thanks my friend!
Happy it worked out for you and thanks for your comment!
Great video. Will this procedure be the same for the 2.0 Camry 3sfe? The part number for the belt kit appears to be the same. Thanks.
Yes.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the response
Thank you brother. I seen other videos but this one is the best👏 Because of this video and how detail and clear everything is I will be doing my water pump kit on my own this weekend..Thanks again
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment and good luck with the job!
Great to see somebody using the same tools I used to do this same job. In my case someone who did the previous belt had loctited on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley. I wanted to change the crank seal and had to drill and tap two holes in the timing belt pulley in order to remove it. I guess some pulleys have these holes, but mine did not. Heat from a propane torch had to be used to get it to start moving. Without it I broke off the head of the puller and therefore the need for the heat.
I feel your pain but you did manage to get the pulley off!
Wow thank you! You made this seem a whole lot easier than what I was thinking lol, doing oil pump and diagnosing an oil leak I have from that area thanks!
Glad it worked out for you and to be of help.
@@hardlymovingpro When replacing the oil pump seals and putting the pump back in , do you need to prime the oil pump by packing grease or Vasoline in the rotor cavity?
@@rickrick9783 Nope ... not at all. When replacing the O ring rubber seal, make sure matting surfaces is clean of any oil residue. Brake cleaner solvent works well. Coat the o ring groove with some RTV then mount the o ring. This will ensure a leak free seal that will last longer than the original seal that dry rotted. Wiggle and twist the oil pump shaft onto the block and eventually the pump will snap in place.
Wow
Your a bloody legend mate. Working on my own engine at the moment and your a great help 🙏
Glad I could help!
Dear I have a ques, after adjusting cam shaft , buy crankshaft nut, so at which pat u align the crankshaft ?
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Could be clogged fuel injectors. Suggest you replace injectors with rebuilds or do a direct fuel injector cleaning service like this video: ruclips.net/video/pz4R_IN232M/видео.html
@10:15 DO NOT use a steal brush to clean that mating surface. You can scratch that machine fit and cause a small oil leak that would be essentially impossible to stop. At the very least use a brass brush but I wouldn't even recommend using that. Just use a nylon brush or just clean it off yourself with brake cleaner and a rag.
Incorrect. There's nothing wrong with using a medium abrasion rotary wire brush on an angle. Removes both paper element and aluminum oxidation residue. My peer mechanics and I do it all the the time as standard-operating-procedure (SOP). Provides a complete leak free seal. The big no-no is using sand paper.
Amazing video, this just walked me through the whole process. Camera angles were as good as it gets, instructions were clear and concise. I wish every how to video was made this well. Thank you for making and sharing this!!!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the heads up. I have this very job to do Tomorrow you’re processes is flawless You help me so much thank you and God bless
Thanks for the feedback and good luck with the repair!
Nice video -- what happened at 18:33 can sometimes be avoided by the following a different tensioning procedure for this engine (5SFE) and the very similar 3SFE engines, as well as some other belt-timed Toyota engines. The process is to install the tensioner spring before installing the belt, and to tack down the tensioner pulley at 45 BTDC cylinder 1 after ascertaining that timing is correct, following a particular series of steps
This is the procedure from the Toyota FSM. It is a little unusual, but it works, and it helps to avoid the situation you guys faced in having to re-tension the belt. This procedure is shown in this other video from Ratchets and Wrenches Channel, if you skip to the 03:26 mark in his video, you can see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/ZKHOOU6ZV-Y/видео.html
Thanks for posting your video, too, since you show the seal replacement but R&W doesn't. I just though I'd let you guys know in case you have another job like this one -- it can save you some time. I've done the 45 BTDC on a 3SFE and it works great for tacking that tensioner down just right.
Thanks again.
Thanks for your post ... but been there, done that and doesn't work for some reason with all replacement belts (Gates, Dayco, Continental, Mitsuboshi, ITM, etc.). Use to do the 2 full rotation method and the belt still became loose after starting the engine (of course after buttoning everything up and having to remove everything again). Starting the engine does a better job of seating the belt with hundreds of rotations instead of 2 rotations. And its always good to verify your work by observing the belt rotation while the engine is running to look for belt wobble (indicating a loose belt). Don't agree with stretching/maxing out the tensioner spring BEFORE putting on the belt. What's the big deal putting on the spring AFTER the belt is on? Also, there's indication that there's a oil leak from either the cam seal, crank seal and/or oil pump housing seal that he hasn't addressed (which will result in a premature belt snap when oil gets on the belt), there's no way the water pump will last to the next service interval unless he replaces it now, and he's putting on the belt with both the cam and crank at the TDC mark which I've found most techs I've trained have difficulty doing (most especially with newbies). You just advance the cam one cog, mount the belt then set the cam back to the TDC mark ... simple and easy. This is what I've learned after doing over a hundred timing belt jobs and dealing with customer "come backs". Again, thanks for your post!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I agree that R&W should have replaced more parts while he was in there, but maybe the customer couldn't afford it or it was his own junker, I don't know. I linked that vid because he shows the little 45 BTDC mark, which is hard to describe without a picture.
I know that process doesn't always work, but it has worked for me, so I thought I would share it! Thanks again for the video.
Hey ... no problem and good discourse. FYI - if it was my own junker, I'd replace the seals and the W/P.
@@hardlymovingpro Haha, agreed. Thanks again
After installing the timing belt and removing slack. Im noticing that the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned right. But the camshaft mark IS NOT IN ALIGNMENT. ITS CONSISTENLY FORWARD BY 2 inches or so...again this is when the harmonic balancer is at the zero mark. Is this okay?
When you're saying 2 inches, are your referring to the protruding tab on the camshaft pulley or the hole in the camshaft pulley that suppose to align with the vertical notch?
Refer to the 7:11 time mark of the video.
@@hardlymovingpro Im referring to the 'camshaft gear'...the camshaft gear hole is past the camshaft vertical notch/camshaft seal area. ie. on every 2nd complete 360 degree turn of the crankshaft gear...the camshaft hole is at 1 o' clock versus the camshaft vertical mark which is 12 0'clock. I want to know can the car still run okay despite this?
I can tell that the camshaft marks are off because I made marks with white out before installing the belt. I have not tried to start the engine yet either.
@@SuperHtownswag It's a non interference engine meaning there won't be any potential valve damage if out of alignment. Also, if not aligned, you'll get a DTC code indicating camshaft position error.
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
Won't damage. It's a non interference engine.
Is it possible to remove without the power tool? Or will the pulley just spin using a normal socket wrench? Or, in my case would I leave the belts in place first to keep the tension on the pulley so it doesn't spin when I'm trying to remove it?
The pulley will spin. You can use a chain strap wrench to hold it from moving.
Is the amazon link for the evergreen kit with aisin water pump and misubishi belt in the description still good? Amazon says it wont fit but the title and description says it does. No reviews unfortunately
As long as you're engine is the 2.2L 3SFE or 5SFE it'll work. These engines were used in the 90's Camry, RAV4 and some Celica's.
Will Silicon spray suffice for lubricating the new shaft seals??? or does it need to be the grease version??? Great video by the way - Thanks.
The spray should suffice.
The oil pumps on these engines leak a lot sooner than 200k miles. And no, domt goop up your oil pump with silicone sealant, thats a bad idea. Just get oem seals for the thing and reseal it correctly.
Here's the video and RTV works just fine: ruclips.net/video/_tsAtyOGpaQ/видео.html
Excellent explanation on the bearing noise. My belt broke and now I know why.
Glad it helped!
Probs to you for working at night!,thats one of the best timing belt jobs and engine too
Thanks!
Paint marks are for shade tree mechanics, Toyota has given you perfectly accurate timing marks.
True.
Nicely done. I would tell people to go ahead and take the alternator and power steering reservoir off. easier to reach the bolts, which are still tricky.
Wouldn't hurt. Just a couple of extra steps. Recommend you first drain the PS fluid by detaching the hose bracketed to the sub frame below the crank pulley.
Great video, helped greatly. ThankYOU!!!
My pleasure and thanks for your post!
good old 11:00 timing mark... messed me up the first time, but I realized that the engine is slanted while in the car.
Live and learn.
@@hardlymovingpro yep.
TY for this nice video and sorry for my bad english on advance. I have this exact same engine on my toyota celica 2.2gts, and just broke my timing belt past week while my car was not moving, it just stopped working while i was stopped. Ive been told that repair would be around 2000€ and i was just wondering if u think it would be worth tryin gto repair it or just buying another engine or even another car. Thank you very much!
Definitely fix it yourself! No need to get another engine (and that's a lot of work!). Most belt breakage, from what I've seen, is due to worn out idler, guide and water pump bearings. This causes bearing wobble which over stresses the belt. So replace the belt with the bearings and water pump.
@@hardlymovingpro TYVM my friend, thats what i needed to hear xD im in love with my car and would completely hate to get rid of it, ill see your videos and ill try my best to get it fixed! TY!
Hi i have 2000 camry 5s engine. Same problem with my car when start it in the morning its making noise comming from timing belt cover i feel that belt is hitting to the cover but after engine warm its reduce the noise i changed timing belt with new koyo and NSK bearings japan. After changing all these it was ok but after 2 months the same noise comming from the timing belt cover. I am suggested to find a little bigger bearing in diameter to not to listen the noise. So what can i do? What will be the best sollution? Should i find a little bigger bearing that should be 60mm in diameter instead of original 57mm diameter?
And which brand belt should i use for this? As before i used mitsuboshi & sun brand belt?
Had a similar problem about a year ago. Appeared to be belt stretch. I took the tb covers off, removed the excess slack and buttoned it back up. Been running fine since then. Belt slap all gone during warm up. Problem caused by not using OEM Mitsubishi belt?
@@hardlymovingpro thaks a lot bro i will check original Toyota TB to install. A bundle of thanks
buenas tardes tengo un toyota cambry 2007 motor 2.4 lts y desde que lo compré cascabelea como si estuviera fuera de tiempo
lo siento ... no puedo aconsejar sin ver el auto
So how hard is it to take off the fender ?. Wouldn't you be looking right at everything.
Wouldn't help.
Are you sure you should use the wire brush to clean off the old waterpump gasket? I'd be afraid of gouging the surface too much.
Absolutely. We techs at the shop do it all the time. Do not, however, use sand paper. That is too abrasive and WILL result in a poor seal. If you want, you can break in the brush by wire brushing against concrete. This will get the wires oriented in the direction of the rotation.
And ... you do mean the water pump mount ... not the gasket?
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, I meant cleaning the old gasket off the mount. I ruined an intake manifold using a grinder with plastic abrasive pads. But that was aluminum. So, I always cringe when I see someone using a wire wheel like that. Good tip about the cement!
Also, your video was great - one of the best so far.
Thanks , explained and demonstrated nicely : )
Glad it was helpful!
Nice man. I think its funny, I look at my repair manual, and it wants me to open the top of the engine, drop the oil pan, remove all coolant, and the AC, just do to do this, yet all I want to do is the Timing belt and the water pump, just like you. Why would i need to remove the oil pan (which means draining the engine) and the coolant?
Which repair manual?
@@hardlymovingpro probably haynes, and maybe 50% of youtubers who have also replaced timing belts on this exact same engine. I agree seems wayy too much.
@@SuperHtownswag Insane. No reason to drop the oil pan to perform a TB and WP service.
Great step by step instructions
Thanks for your critique and support!
Where can I buy that tool with the chain you use to hold cam sprocket when tightening bolt.
It's called a "Chain Strap Wrench". You should be able to buy one from any hardware store. They come in different length handles. Use your search engine with the search words "Chain strap wrench for sale" and you will get a lot of hits. There are good deals on Ebay and Amazon. I have a video on all the different types you can use. Here's the link:
ruclips.net/video/h1kKlCkmfT0/видео.html
I like videos with some issues that happens in the process of removing, installing or any other inconvenience so I can realize and learn from my own mistakes. thank you sr for sharing this tutorial.
Thanks ... my pleasure.
u dont say u atv or sshow a gasket bad work
I have a question ,how did you get the crankshaft sprocket 😊off
Usually pulls off by hand. If stuck, must use a puller tool.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks I will do that 😃
That seal remover for the camshaft seal will still scratch up the shaft surface. I could never get the seal removed that way. The way I do it for the camshaft is to take the pulley off, remove the two bolts for the camshaft cap and push that seal from the inside out. Insert new seal and reinstal.
The puller claw pulls on the outside lip of the seal. The seal's inner lip that rides on the cam doesn't get touched by the claw.
GREAT VIDEO !! Subbed!
Thanks!
Ok so I had to fix the oil pump leak. Fitted new pump vanes, seal and spaghetti o ring. Also fitted new timing belt. Turned engine over checking belt timing. All seemed ok. All timing marks lined up. Finished reassembling all the bits and pieces. Started engine idles fine. New oil pump worked perfect. My problim is that when doing test drive the car seemed sluggish from standstill
Ran ok at speed. I am thinking I have the timing belt out 1 tooth. Anyone have an opinion on my dilemma.
If the belt alignment is off, your check engine light would usually come on. The underlying code would indicate a camshaft position sensor error.
No check engine light showing. I am going to put my timing light on to see if that shows anything. To my way of thinking the ignition timing would be out slightly if the cam timing is out seeing as the dizzy runs off the camshafts.
So I just checked the ignition timing. Bridged the terminals in the computer plug te1 to e1. Ignition timing is.just retarded of TDC when it should be at 10deg BTDC. I must have the belt 1 tooth wrong.
@@legsofsteel1 Conclusion makes sense.
As always you have an excellent video. You show things other channels don't, and what you show makes a lot of sense. Thanks! I have five Toyotas (1998,2001,2001,2004,2017) and I always turn to you for your advise.
I appreciate that! I assume you have cars with the 2.2 5SFE, 2.4 2AZ-FE and the 2.5 2AR-FE?
Question, the cam and crank marks dont line up how can i fix that ? do i take the timing belt off and line them up separately ?
Can't say without seeing what's going on.
@@hardlymovingpro I believe the timing belt slipped and it jumped time, whenever I line up the cam the crank is off and vice versa it's the same engine as in your camry the 5SFE if this happened to you how would you go about realigning it
I'm sure you've already figured out yours but I'm writing this for the next guy that has the same issue.
Take the belt off and line them up separately. After they're both lined up, put the belt on again making sure marks on camshaft and crankshaft stay lined up. The misalignment usually happens when you turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions. This is when belt tends to jump a tooth or two because the spring doesn't put enough tension on belt. In order to avoid this, after installing the belt with everything lined up, pull up on tensioner pulley to put extra tension on the belt, hold it there and tighten tensioner bolt. Don't torque to 31 ft-lbs yet. Just tighten it enough so tensioner doesn't move. Now make sure all teeth from water pump drive pulley, camshaft pulley, and crankshaft sprocket are engaged with grooves in belt. If you have to do more work to engage any of them, you have to check timing marks on both camshaft and crank again. Once all this is good, rotate crankshaft exactly 2 revolutions and verify timing marks on both shafts are lined up. If they are, now make sure there is more tension on the part of the belt that's facing the front of the car than on the part of the belt that's facing the rear of the car. If that's good you can now torque the tensioner bolt to 31 ft-lbs. Some people loosen the tensioner bolt at this point so that the only tension on the belt is from the spring and then they torque it to 31 ft-lbs. I do NOT loosen it and then torque it. I just torque it because the first few times I loosened it and then torqued it, the belt would come a little loose and rattle so I would have to do the job again. I've never had any problems with it being too tight because you can't put that much tension with one hand and I've never had one break. I have always replaced them due to mileage (90,000 miles) not breakage.
Where do you get the installation tool for the seal I would like to have one?
A link is provided in this video's description. If you want to get to the tool from here: amzn.to/2F1Nlag
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks I just did the timing belt water pump on my Avalon with the OneMZFE used your other video for instruction it was great I ended up using a piece of PVC pipe and a small hammer for the seals
@@leonarddroneview6947 That's what I used too. Worked great!
Thanks you made my job on my father and laws Toyota easy, great video!
Hey ... glad it worked out for you!
Got a 97 Celica with the 5sfe. Water pump weeping. Has 230, 000 miles. This is a job I am going to tackle myself so watching as many videos on it as possible to find out as many tricks and tips as possible to make the job easier. I intend to change the TB, auxiliary belts and of course the water pump. Was wondering if it was worth replacing the oil pump gaskets also or anything else you can think of? Thanks.
Here's a video I made replacing the oil pump cover O ring gasket. These O rings dry rot and allow oil to leak out.
The hardest part for me is getting that side bracket off. Sux.
Yea. Those bracket bolts mounted to the side of the engine block. Take the crankshaft pulley off first.
@@hardlymovingpro OK. Thank you for this video.
I'm having the same problem here and that's huge for me right now to change.
Thank you so much for your help, very much appreciated.
My pleasure and good luck with the job!
How much would you charge for this ?
5 hrs labor and cost of parts.
Can I ask you something I don't quite understand about your crank/cam alignment (I'm not trying to corner or offend you or anything, I just don't get this one thing you did). You made orange marks as reference points on the crank gear. Why didn't you just use the V mark on the gear and the timing nub behind it that are already there for this very purpose? Is it because they are hard to see or you didn't know about them? Or was there some other reason? Again, I'm not trying to corner you. It's just that if you didn't know about them, maybe the teacher that told me he set my crank/cam alignment didn't know about them either. If you didn't know about him, I'd feel more comfortable asking him if he knows about them tomorrow when he looks at it. It sort of a touchy situation for me to tell the teacher he doesn't know something that I do know, especially since I haven't done this job before, if ya get my drift?
You're correct with your first assumption. I use paint marks for quick and easy visual reference for both myself while personally working on a customer's car and for you guys watching the video.
@@hardlymovingpro Okay, I understand. Thank you. I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.
When it comes to the camshaft seal does the tool you used is part of a kit ?
Nope. The tool needs to be purchased separately.
Ugh I bought the tool and broke 2 seals trying to install the friggen thing in
Hello sir do you happen to know if these engines are time interference?
These are non interference.
@@hardlymovingpro thank u
Did not show TDC for cam and crank
You have to watch the entire video.
Amazing video still to this day better than 90% of the others out there well I guess 100% of the others out there cuz I haven't found anything better on this thanks man this is better than anything else. So helpful I don't pick up thing from reading a manual 🤣
Thanks! Appreciate your critique and support!
Great video!... Question, did you add any gasket sealant grease on water pump gasket before installing the pump?
Not necessary. The steel gasket with a rubber seal provides a leak free seal.
Nice work surprised you didn't do the oil pump o ring and seal. I think that's my problem. I have to remove most of this stuff to do it. You show doing that very well.
Thanks. Did another video for the oil pump.
Subscribed. Great video.
You bet!
Questions: which you can answer - at 12:28 m, what exactly is your "seal installation tool"? At 14:50, are you replacing the seal for the whole oil pump as well or just the section with o-ring?
At the 12:28 mark, I'm using the KTC brand seal installation tool. If you go to the "show more" section of this video, I provide a Amazon link to view or purchase the tool. I made a separate video for replacing the oil pump cover and shaft seal. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/_tsAtyOGpaQ/видео.html I also did another video on tools used for seal replacement: ruclips.net/video/KUSIZs2b4Ck/видео.html And here's a video showing how I used a seal installation kit to install new seals in a Mitsubishi 3000GT: ruclips.net/video/FTp_tVXSbqU/видео.html
I have the 2gfre engine. Do I have to to take out the harmonic balancer to reach the oil seal? Thanks the vids!
If the seal behind the balancer is leaking.
@@hardlymovingpro it was definitely tricky putting the engine back on the mount. i had to to use 2 jacks and push one jack at a time to align the mount. thanks for the vid. looking back, i only switched 2 pulley and missed the tensioner pulley...not looking forward to doing this again. did you use two, separate long 2x4 and raised the engine by the oil pan, and transmission pan? my oil pan got dented, but that was my fault
@@toanlam8603congratulations on finishing the job by yourself! A 2x8 block of wood would distribute the weight more evenly
@@hardlymovingpro thanks! I had 2 others help me
Ah dang it ! Finished installing everything, went for a rip in town today started the car and the oil started leaking real bad under
Weird. It looks like the Oil Pump Seal popped out.
Could be the camshaft oil seal. The seal lip can turn inside out if you push the seal in to hard. I prefer to spin them on until flush with the engine then use my press tool.
@hardlymovingpro aw thanks man. Turn out it was the oil pump pulley seal..... I only used an impact to screw the pulley bolt back on at first, but this time used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and torqued it down to like 20 ft pound.
@hardlymovingpro actually just reinstalled only the timing belt and it seems like the seal is once again popping out ?
Dang it just tried again and it popped after 5 minutes running it without the lower timing cover. I guess I'll try a new seal
I got both new tensioner pulley and idler, when I try to turn them by hands they barely spin 180 degrees. They are aftermarket branded. Normal or should I just reuse the one on the car ? (They spin more than freely)
Sounds like something is wrong with those new pulleys. You should replace the old pulleys with new ones with the new timing. Go to rockauto.com to get decent aftermarket pulleys.
@hardlymovingpro Gotcha yeah good call thank you. I was able to find the seal puller, a chain wrench and even the cam seal tool you're using in this video. I got an aftermarket water pump sitting at home but read the reviews ( "Ultra Power" ) branded and some guy said it broke after 3 months so now I am more than skeptical installing it
Try the brand GMB or Aisin for OEM quality.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks a lot for all your replies. What's your opinion on the NPW water pumps ?
@@hardlymovingpro I actually found a kit with Aisin waterpump and tensionners branded GMB. Should be pretty good right ?!
Awesome video..major TU
Thanks!
Hi. Any way you could share links to the tools you used to remove the camshaft pulley and the oil seal removal and installation tool?
ruclips.net/video/KUSIZs2b4Ck/видео.html
the dealer accidentally ordered Japanese or Chinese oil seals instead of us soil crank seal fortunately yhe other parts person picked up on that and straitened it out he said that the crank seal would not fit right
Don't understand the problem. The 5SFE engine is a Japanese engine. What's wrong with Japanese oil seals? Probability the best seals you can get.
Is there another way I can remove the camshaft bolt ?
Using a long handle 1/2" socket wrench. With the handle of the wrench secured to the ground and the socket square on the bolt, turn over the engine (like as if starting the car) for less than a second. The torque from the starter motor might spin the bolt off.
@@hardlymovingpro I was able to remove it using its belt routed to the AC compressor using it like a wrench strap sorta thing. Now I need a pulley puller....
Soak with penetrating oil and let it sit for a day. Will help with the removal.
Just curious what's the average cost at the mechanic to replace those things in the video plus oil pump seal? Thank you!
Google it you can buy the new kit for timing belt and water pump for $150 but I reckon about $300_$400
❤🎉😊
Thanks!
Good video 📹👍very detailed 👌 what brand timing belt did you use? for this job, or what brand do you recommend? I bought a car with 226,000 mi. All be changing the seals the cam is leaking. Might as well do the timing job too. And see how long the car 🚗can last.
Japanese belts: Mitsuboshi or Bando. American: Dayco or Gates. European: Continental
Bearings & water pump: Aisin or GMB
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you, I understand better now.
Best vid I've seen on the t/belt. Well done!
Thanks for your comment and support!
Torque specs would help
Good idea to reference a technical manual or book on this vehicle (with the torque specs) before taking on this type of job. Recommend a Haynes manual.
I put the timing belt on and I had put tension and it is still slack. I did replace the spring. What is the problem?
Did you start the car, recheck the tension and adjust?
I need the oil pump seal kit , now I'm wondering if I should do all these deals while I have it all apart.
Would make the job complete.
This vid was done a few years back, I know, but it’s really good stuff! The funny thing is I watched it twice before I realized the video engine is a 5SFE and I have the 3SFE. I’m old, it’s okay. I learned a lot!
Not much difference between the 5SFE and the 3SFE. Believe timing components are identical.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for that! I did a bit of research and came to that conclusion. Also, thanks for the list of tools I just ordered from Amzn.
From what source of information,that tells you,it’s a non interference engine,because I have a 2010 pilot, with a broken timing belt. Please specify... thanks
Pilot is a interference engine. Contact a Honda dealer for confirmation and ask to speak to a mechanic.
What type of attachment you used to clean the water pump mounting surface? I want something i can use with my impact driver.
It's a wire brush attached to a air powered right angle drill. Does quick work on removing paper element gasket residue as well as prep the surface for a new gasket. Warning: Do Not Use Sandpaper to prep the mounting surface.
1st of all this is an excellent timing belt video. I couldn't have asked for a better one, but I think this job will be left to a mechanic.
2nd is not timing belt related so I understand if you don't waste your time but also really hope you do. I watched this about 10 times to get the answer for myself but its going to take more knowledge than that. I'm trying to diagnose a valve cover leak vs a camshaft seal leak . The visible oil is all over the back of the engine. (I did the valve cover already and its still leaking is the reason I'm looking into camshaft seal.) If I wanted to rule out cam shaft seal leak could I do that by removing the dogbone mount and the upper timing bolt cover and nothing else? Wouldn't the oil be on the cam pulley and the black plate that backs it? Please and thank you!
I think you leak is coming from the half circle rubber plugs on both ends of the cylinder head. Remove and clean the plugs then reseal with RTV.
When replacing the valve cover gasket, did you remove old RTV and put ultra black silicone RTV in the 8 places the book calls out for? If you did, then check if the oil is coming from camshaft seal by removing the parts you pointed out above. If it's coming from the camshaft seal, you will see it. There's also a black 2 inch round plastic plug on the driver's side of valve cover that also leaks, so check that too. It's behind the mount for ignition coils.
Great Video. Suggest you give torque info and more tool wrench size info. (or not). when you put the water ump back on did you use a new gasket? Saw you clean things up, but thought I just saw the part put on, no gasket. Sorry if I misse that. Again, great video, the best one on this I've seen. THANK YOU!
Thanks for your comment in your post. Yes... The new water pump gasket was installed around the 10:30 mark. Torque specs can be obtained from a technical service manual specific to this car which I recommend to all DIY mechanics.
This video was IMMENSELY helpful. I've got a cold-engine whine coming from under the timing cover that I have to deal with and the timing belt is due anyway so I asked my mechanic to draw up an estimate to do all this stuff...aaaaand pretty much had a heart attack. I work on my own car all the time and have a decent set of tools, but this was a bit more than I usually would take on. After watching your video, I know I can totally do this. I've already started ordering some of the specialty tools I'll need. Checking your other vids, too. Thanks, brother.
Good for you! Highly recommend you get yourself name brand idler and tensioner pulleys for long term life (i.e. GMB or Koyo). Same applies for the water pump (Aisin or GMB). Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro Will do. Thanks!
What is the part number for the camshaft seal installer? I'm about to do all this same work to my wife's 94 Camry.
The tool is listed in the "Show More" button of this video.
Nice video! I'm a chevy technician not used to these yotas but seems easy to me thanks for the info.
I worked at a Cadillac dealership and any trade in Asian imports that needed work they dumped on me.
Very nice job!!
Thanks for the visit!
really good video!
Thanks!
The pully with the spring is a tensioner and to adjust the timing belt those cars usually have a pointer and also have a a access hole in the cover for adjusting the timing belt
Maybe but I prefer to see the belt moving with the cover off to determine the right amount of tension. I found the belt being a little loose makes a difference with respect to engine lag.
@@hardlymovingpro I've done many and I completely agree. I don't think @wmwil2564 is talking about Toyota's 2.2 liter 5S-FE.
I know nobody asked but on the bypass filtration info....most significant engine wear occurs from particles less that 5 microns in size. The full flow filter, even the best one, because it has to maintain high oil pressure, really only filters at 95% efficiency down to about 15 or 20 microns. When you run bypass filtration, you bleed around 10% of the oil flow through a nearly infinitely more dense filter, and at a much slower flow rate. This allows nearly 99% efficiency down to nearly 1 micron. By removing these particles you get a many fold benefit:
1. Significantly reduced engine wear.
2. Greater efficiency in terms of heat exhange and mechanical efficiency as the oil is now, basically, clean. You aren't paying to move particulates in the oil around your engine at 2,000 to 4,000 rpms . The weight of the oil is only slightly higher with all the crap in it, but because it has to be moved at such high speeds, , this is a large energy cost. When you remove all the particulates, it takes far less energy to move that oil.
3. Always clean, warm oil will remove varnish and other gunk from the oil flow paths, keeping tolerances as new as possible minus any prior wear.
4. Analytically clean oil from mile 0 of oil change to the next filter change interval. Without bypass filtration, the oil just gets dirtier as you drive until you do a full change, the repeats the process of particulate contamination.
5. Oil changes are basically the bypass filter, and whatever oil was still in the filter at the change.
6. Oil analysis can confirm the proper installation and performance of a bypass filter, as well when to do a complete oil change. I do the full change on this camry about 2x per year, and put about 30k miles per year on this car. While the bypass filter element can absorb about 6 oz of water, any more than that and the oil will turn acidic, and no filter yet can change that. So analysis would tell you that, but I just use 6 to 12 month intervals.
Bypass filters are pretty much standard on diesel engines because of all the soot build up. Had an Amsoil bypass filter on my pickup truck around 20 years ago and it worked on the principals you had previously outlined ... which I agree with. But I came to realize that although the filter can help protect the engine from wear and tear in the long run, everything else that surrounds the engine wears out: alternators, starters, sensors, radiators, ac compressors, condensers, suspension parts, timing chains, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel pump, fuel injectors, valve stem seals, exhaust system components, transmission components, door lock, window regulators, bearings, etc...that unless you can do the repair yourself, for the average owner they'll trash the car. So if the engine runs okay with synthetic oil changes every 6k miles or so, why bother with the time and effort using a bypass filter for that extra level of engine wear protection? For the cost of an oil analysis, I can do another synthetic oil change. A failed transmission cost as much to replace as a worn out engine to replace. Also, I can get a reman 5SFE engine for around $1K and swap the engine out in a day.
Its a personal choice. Ive run the numbers and have a car, at the end of the day, that is still running strong at 335,000 miles plus. It cost less than 22 cent per mile to drive including gas. (I purchased it used at 65,000 miles). So based on how I like to spend money it has worked very well for me. I believe, in addition to an amazingly excellent design and manufacturing process of the camry 5fse, that excellent filtration contributed greatly to the low cost of ownership of this vehicle.
@@orthopraxis235 The 5SFE was and still is a great engine ... but you should check out the specs on Toyota's newer I4 engines. The horsepower gains along with the fuel economy is nothing less than amazing! Also their transmissions ... 8 speeds. A standard Camry rides like a Lexus 20 years ago. I drove a late model Camry recently as was blown away. Incredibly smooth, powerful and quiet! You can barely tell the transmission is shifting.
have you ever had a Toyota motor shaking and smoking out tailpipe
Shaking is a motor out of tune. Smoking ... depends on what color. White coolant with due to a blown head gasket, black for fuel burn (fuel injectors?) and blue is oil burn (blown head gasket, worn oil rings, main bearings, valve stem seals).
@@hardlymovingpro gray smoke if that makes any sense
@@ryanhughes5731 If during initial start up during a cold day and the smoke disappears, then it's moisture evaporation in the muffler as the car warms up ... otherwise, blown head gasket. Check your coolant level to confirm. If low, add coolant to radiator and reservoir. Start car and watch for air bubbles in the reservoir. If bubbling ... blown head gasket.
@@hardlymovingpro when I rev It Up
@@ryanhughes5731 Not a good sign. You've got internal engine problems.
Hi HMP. It was interesting to see that while the belt looked reasonably tight after attaching the spring and tightening the tensioner, after running the engine it became quite loose. It looks like you should run the car to get all slack from the belt. Some cars though require the rocket cover to be removed and so running the car may not be possible unless you put the car together beforehand. What methods are there in addition to running the car that effectively tightens the belt so you don’t have to retighten later. Thanks
Conventional instructions is to rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and then re-tension. My preference is to start the engine. On Honda's older I4, I loosely place the value cover back on before I start the car so that oil won't go spraying all over the place.
Thank you for your reply. I agree absolutely. I recently replaced a belt in a Mazda 323 “Miata” FWD using conventional manual method. Relied on spring to make the required tension, rotated by hand several times to check and the belt remained visually tight. Closed everything up and the car went well for about 3000km before the belt failed and let me stranded. I predict that the belt became loose quickly and survived for a while before it finally failed. As you’ve shown, you cannot rely on the spring to provide the correct tension and you must run the engine to bed the belt in to eliminate any hidden areas of slack. The unfortunate experience knocked my confidence a bit (I’m an amateur trying to learn) but it was an important lesson well learned and it’s so very crucial to follow your procedure for adequate tensioning. Unfortunately the Mazda was no longer needed by family so it was scrapped. So bit sad to see it go. Will try again on the other family cars including my 98 Camry at a later date. Thank you again for your kind effort posting such interesting and helpful videos. A truly excellent and enjoyable channel. Regards Craig.
great vid, i just did this on my 5sfe only to find Im leaking coolant from behind the oil pump 😬
Check the gasket for the water pump.
@@hardlymovingpro yes was the Oring behind the water pump.
Good ihhh ihh job
Thanks!
I wish you were my mechanic 🧑🔧👍👀
Great video.
Thanks!
Do u know somebody in Dallas tx can fix my car ???
Sorry ... Way out of my area.
Great video! Thank you for posting. It helped a lot with my efforts to replace timing belt and water pump. Just wish I had an air impact wrench for that crankshaft bolt.
Thanks for your post, comments and support! You can always use an inexpensive ac electric 1/2" impact driver attached to a high mass impact socket. Worked for me when my 18v electric battery impact driver gave out.