One of the best video on changing timing belt and water pump on 2.2 L Toyota engine. Your no non-sense, low fat, to the point and step by step approach with clear instructions is much appreciated. Great job.
@@backyardchevy328 Hello watching your video I gained confidence and the day before yesterday I started working on my Toyota Camry 2000. I replaced power steering, oil pump saal and gasket, tomorrow I will be ready to replace water pump. One think only worries me that I didn't set the engine in the center before I took off the belt. Wil I have to pot the gear pulley back , old timing belt ,tention , plastic cover with the zero mark on it , and set the angine on the zero mark, or maybe is there a different way ? Thank you.
@@musa-pv9em well yea youll have to set it to zero..but the good thing is these toyota engines are non interference engines so it wouldnt be an issue on these cars if u removed the belt before setting it to top dead center...but for engines with interference engines you definitely wanna avoid not setting it before removing the belt
This is a great, no nonsense video. Clear, organized presentation, torque specs. and wrench/socket sizes provided, quality photo shots. All around solid instructional video.
Very very descriptive and step by step instructions. Even down to torqueing the bolts and size of wrenches you need for specific parts as well as not talking about needless stuff. Straight and to the point and no bullshit like people in other videos. I will be subscribing and sharing this video definitely. Thank you Sir. You just made my life easier. I appreciate your time and hard work you put into making this video.
This is an excellent video that shows the step by step procedure. This is definitely an older 3rd gen Camry than a 1997-01 as there are some small differences, like the wiring harness at 2:42 which isn't on the 4th gen Camrys. HERE'S A LITTLE EXTRA INFO.... If you care about continuing to get serious miles from your old Camry engine, use only KOYO Idler and Tensioner bearings. Be extra careful of using Chinese bearings which are often in the timing belt kits that Gates and Dayco offer. I know with Gates kits, they always sneak at least one Chinese Idler or Tensioner bearing into the kit, and you can be guaranteed that's where your next premature failure will occur. Luckily, the 5S-FE engine is a non-interference engine. KOYO BEARINGS SAY KOYO RIGHT ON THEM and generally have a dark reddish brown seal, NOT a blue-green seal. Be extremely weary of parts or kits of any kind purchased on eBay. Personally, I piece my kits together individually assuring KOYO or NSK, with KOYO being slightly better than NSK for most applications, however NSK is a fine Japanese-made bearing as well. KOYO bearings are literally the best bearings you can buy, which is what comes on Toyota/Lexus OEM. I run the Blue Gates Racing timing belts which are an Extended Service belt that's good for at least 100K miles, if not double the life of an ordinary t-belt. They cost a bit more, but seem to be well worth it, and YES, the Gates blue belts are now made in China. Again, the Gates Blue Racing belt is capable of double the life of a typical belt IF it's installed and tensioned correctly and there are no oil, coolant or contaminate leaks under the cover. Be sure to change out your water pump and both the cam seal and crank seal while you have the engine apart, and use GOOD seals like Toyota or Felpro. Also, change out the foam seal on the timing belt cover. It's super inexpensive. Use HOAT coolant to refill radiator. Nuff said.
Your comment is very enlightening. If it's not too much to ask, could you provide the codes or links for these bearings (codes from the manufacturers you recommend: Koyo and NSK)?
We're so lucky to have this information for free.. Specifically THIS video above all others online. I really appreciate you taking the time to magnify on every possible step to offer clear, concise direction for this repair/replacement. I'm not a mechanic, but I've replaced many parts on my camry, and this video offers me confidence for something more advanced. Thank you. Valuable video.
This is a great video. Started the job yesterday on my 97 Celica, 234,000 miles. Finding the job very challenging due to lack of space, got as far as removing engine mount and supporting bracket, auxiliary belts, alternator. Seems procedure is same for my 2.2 Celica apart from there not being the dog bone, in mine there is just a big rubber engine mount. The engine mount support bracket attaching to the engine is very challenging to remove, the 3 bolts on mine were super tight, took my time because if you strip these you are in big trouble! Also power steering pump did not move too easy, had to loosen all 3 bolts and again this was not easy, a ratcheting wrench is pretty essential if you need to do this. Since this is a big job as well as replacing TB and water pump my Aisin kit includes a couple of pulleys, also replacing crank seal, oil pump seal and gasket, cam seal, auxiliary belts (all OEM)- I do not intend to be doing this job again at least for a while! Also putting in a new passenger side CV axle-the clicking old one removed and new one prepped and ready for install. Going back at it today, good part is there is no rush, this is not my main driver the work in our enclosed garage.
This is a very well done video. I did this job once. It was in the dead of winter on a snow filled driveway. What a pain! I paid my long time mechanics to do it the next time. We also did a head gasket and valve seals at the same time. I have a spinal injury so I just could not do it then. It's a year later and the water pump just started leaking. DAMN! It's the full Dayco kit so it has a lifetime warranty. However, the labor is not covered. It's late spring (May) so my neighbor and I will be doing it tomorrow. In theory, we should have it done in one day. This is definitely one of the more idiotic water pump placements that I have ever seen. I love the car but, sometimes, the engineering leaves much to be desired. What's disappointing is that it's a Japanese car. I would expect bad engineering from the American plant but, not from Toyota, Japan. Oh well. When it works, it's a fantastic car. I agree with another poster below. Degreasing it would have been the correct thing to do even if the client was under time constraints. A few minutes with some Purple Power and a garden hose would make a huge difference. I would worry about some of that caked crude getting into the new parts. Of course, that much crud indicates that there is a rather decent oil leak, too. That should have been serviced at the same time. It could have been only a rocker cover gasket which is a fast job. Then again, with that much goo it's hard to tell from just where it is coming. LOL Thanks for the detailed video.
Its the way most vehicles are now made with the water pump being ran by the timing belt, i actually prefer this design over many others, due to the fact if timing belt busts or water pump seizes there will be no damage to the valves unlike on hondas audi's gm's and many other interference engines..yea i also wish i would of degreased it, it doesnt look as professional when done like that
Just what I needed step by step in one video awesome thanks I am not a mechanic but with RUclips I am 😂 ilove this videos as long as you have the tools the work is easy just take your time and keep the parts with there screws together and organized you will have blast and learn for next time or you wanto take a job like that to make some extra cash ❤
Finally I finished , it took me 21 hours in 4 days , I replaced power steering , timing belt , seal oil pump end gasket , replaced water pump in Toyota Camry 2000 .Thanks to your grate video car fired up from the first time , and purrs quietly. What I can say that without the right tools, there is no point even starting. One thing appeared, namely the red oil light , disappears when I accelerate and reappears when I slow down, the engine oil is on right level , did I do something wrong?
The plate at 7:15 is probably why my timing belt never reached the 100k miles. Sometimes in just two weeks, I had to replace timing belt. That was a good spot from my mechanic; now I must find a replacement part. I am scared to drive the car.
Great vid I replaced it on my 01 camry but Im not sure if I have air in the system or the thermostat came defective or even the water pump . Just idling or in the street temp exactly haltf ways slitley above normal. I jump on the freeway and the temp gauge goes up to 3/4 then goes down to half and goes back and forth until I get of the freeway. Please help.
Thank you🙂 yea thats normally caused by air in the system..when engines cold and cap off u can try lifting the front of the car turning on the heater and slowly add coolant and hopefully thatll help burp the system
After installing the timing belt and removing slack. Im noticing that the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned right. But the camshaft mark IS NOT IN ALIGNMENT. ITS CONSISTENLY FORWARD BY 2 inches or so...again this is when the harmonic balancer is at the zero mark. Is this okay? Im referring to the 'camshaft gear'...the camshaft gear hole is past the camshaft vertical notch/camshaft seal area. ie. on every 2nd complete 360 degree turn of the crankshaft gear...the camshaft hole is at 1 o' clock versus the camshaft vertical mark which is 12 0'clock. I want to know can the car still run okay despite this? I can tell that the camshaft marks are off because I made marks with white out before installing the belt. I have not tried to start the engine yet either. To be honest the car already has 276,000 miles on it. And doesnt have a check engine light or any codes. I decided to replace the belt because It was very loose (yet fully intact. I know how bizarre right?) I bought a kit and changed the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley (I think this was the main culprit, as the spring felt weird and the tensioner pulley had VERY limited movement. Im gearing the bearings inside the tensioner pulley were worn. I checked the records for the previous owner and the timing belt was last replaced at around 185,608 miles, oil pump seals, camshaft seal and crankshaft seals were replaced then too). Yes its toyotas 5sfe engine, If I can get the car to last me another 40,000 miles Ill be more than satfisfied Can I rotate the camshaft gear counter clockwise about 45 degrees before the camshaft gear TDC#1 timing mark....rationale: so it COULD potentially line up correctly after I reinstall the belt and rotate the crankshaft a few times?
its actually pretty common for that to happen when installing the belt..it can get irritating...but try installing the belt ahead a tooth so it possibly falls back and lines up as it should, that's what i normally do when that keeps happening....but yea if the markings are off by that much the car might run but itll be hard to start and itll run really bad...so itll be noticeable if the timing marks are off.
@@backyardchevy328 Bit of a late reply, but thanks for pointing that out, I managed to get her running again and even sold it for $1300! Better than the $60 the scrap yard was offering lol
It's hard to reach in that tight space, but doing it while giving the camera a view must have been a real pita. Were you sometimes climbing on top of the motor? Lol. Well done. Everyone, since you've done that much work to get there, replace the oil seals on the cam and crank. They're cheap. I've owned 3 of these Camry's and those seals leaked on every one. One was so bad I was putting 5 qts in per tank of gas.
Hello watching your video I gained confidence and the day before yesterday I started working on my Toyota Camry 2000. I replaced power steering, oil pump saal and gasket, tomorrow I will be ready to replace water pump. One think only worries me that I didn't set the engine in the center before I took off the belt. Wil I have to leay the gear pulley back , old timing belt , tention , plastic cover with the zero mark on it , and set the angine on the zero mark, or maybe is there a different way ? Thank you.
Yea youll want to put the cam pulley into position lining it up to the hole..then align the crank pulley into position with the marks on the oil pump housing..once theyre both in position install the belt and follow steps on video
Finally I finished , it took me 21 hours in 4 days , I replaced power steering , timing belt , seal oil pump end gasket , replaced water pump in Toyota Camry 2000 .Thanks to your grate video car fired up from the first time , and purrs quietly. What I can say that without the right tools, there is no point even starting. One thing appeared, namely the red oil light , disappears when I accelerate and reappears when I slow down, the engine oil is on right level , did I do something wrong?
@@musa-pv9em well the red oil light if its on at idle could mean either the oil pressure switch is bad or there is a slight loss of oil pressure somewhere...did u replace the oil pump or just the gaskets? it could be that one of the gaskets possibly didnt seal properly or maybe pinched the oring on a corner
Well I just replace broken seal at the oil pump ,was really hard to put it on ,so I use a red RTVto holed it on , I tried to replace gasket but there was no way to take the rack of , I went for help to workshop, they try everything even torching ,with no results the bolt sims to be locked .
5:11 hello brother! My belt snapped after my water pump when out to return it to top dead center does the belt have to be on to reset harmonic balance ?
No you can rotate the pulleys individually since those toyota camry engines are non interference meaning the valves dont touch pistons..so u can line up lower pulley on its own..then rotate cam pulley to mark as well..then install belt
@@darylturcott did it jump a tooth? The tensioner should of still been tight enough to keep it from doing that even if u tightened it at top dead center...did u loosen the tensioner bolt as u spun it the last rotations? Before torquing it?
Thank you🙂 i havent done any videos on em so far other than replacing those hood lifts..but i have had to replace the grilles and outer door handle on em..but if i have to replace one again..ill be sure to make a video on it
Well done video I think I feel confident of doing this rather save 400 dollars of labor I have coolant dry spots on the right side of water pump by thermostats does that make the pump bad definitely loosing coolant please hep!!
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
After hammering on a new harmonic balancer that was a tight fit I may messed up my crank. It only turns one ration( about 350 degrees before hitting something) shouldn’t be valves as it’s a non interference engine. Any help would much be appreciated
And u didnt have any problems rotating it before that? Were u hitting on it really hard? Yea it shouldnt be the valves..and having the top cover off u cant see anything mechanically jamming up the cam gear or any of the pulleys
@@DJ3rn5t im thinking it may have pushed out the harmonic balancer key and to where its kinda wedged pointing upwards and hitting housing when u rotate it
Hi, Thanks for this vid. I am about to change timing belt on my Camry 5S-FE 2000. I really like to learn how to do auto stuff myself and save money. One thing I noticed was how oiled up your engine is. What's leaking there?
Thanks! This is my 1st full Toyota WP job. It is very involved. Going slowwwwwww. Any tips on the sealant you used for the pump? It didn't seem necessary. If so, does it have to be Toyota specific?
I just used the gasket which is included..but the sealant does help hold the gasket in place with a very thin coat if u dont remove the water outlet..if u do u can use the high temp rtv sealant..which is oil resistant.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Yea thats definitely high...well an exhaust manifold leak could affect the oxygen sensor..but highly unlikely it would affect it that much...itll either be a vacuum leak at or near the intake manifold or throttle body..or it could also be caused by bad injectors too
I had the cam, crank and oil pump seal and gasket changed 60,000 miles ago when i did the timing belt on my 92 toyota camry 2.2l. No leaks so far, my question is should i change the seals with this timing belt change or wait till the next 60,000 mile timing belt change?
@@lejoshmont2093 it was calling for 60,000 miles in my 92 Camry manual, but I’m waiting 100,000 miles due to when my car was built the belt material was not like it is today, that’s y it called for 60 but I’m doing 100
I've watched a few times and I don't understand how all the marks are supposed to line up before, and after, the 1+ 7/8 turn. They line up before, but not after. What am I missing?
First you wanna install the belt..then turn it 2 turns to make sure that the marks are lining up..if they dont then reinstall and try again..if they do line up this time..youll wanna turn 1 & 7/8th of turn, this will put the belt in the best position to remove any slack in the belt..so at this point u wanna torque the tensioner..then turn it the last 1/8th of a turn completing the full turn making sure that the marks on the top and bottom pulley line up...if it does then u know the timing marks are lined up and the belt is properly installed
Figured it out. I was attempting to start the engine to test it before putting everything back together, so there was still a sensor unplugged (crankshaft position sensor, I think). Plugged it in and the car started right up.
@@collum2012 i did the same thing before i assembled it too when i turned it on for the video..i didn't connect it and on first take it didnt start then i connected it for the 2nd take lol..glad thats what it was🙂👍
Replace the oil pump seals and the cam and crank seals, for the novice mechanic It takes a few more hours, but it saves many headaches down the road. I buy that same kit except I upgrade to the one that comes with the seals. the cost is around 80.00
@@justatool actually the whole oil pump is leaking so i decided to leave that for a later video, since the owner wasnt prepared for the extra cost...but yes they should replace the seals.
Well oil light means its not enough oil pressure circulating..so that lack of oil could wear out the internals of the engine faster than normal..or if bad enough could cause bad damage to it
@@backyardchevy328 today I got to the oil pump again, I took it out half and put on the gasket finally. The seal I put it on yesterday and it was intact .I installed everything back and started the car, unfortunately this time the red oil light does not go out when accelerating, it remains. What to do? ..
@@backyardchevy328 thanks for the quick reply! I just didn't want to loosen/remove that I shouldn't. It's so tight in that area I can't tell what's what(I'm a diy'er). I see 3 bolts/nuts up there ...
@@juan4you_80 i wish i had done a better job of explaining that..itll be one bolt thats exactly straight across from that bolt u loosened..itll be just above the pulley
@@vcrxnkzy-4261 yea i would be too..the water pump should be replaced with timing belt because when the pump goes bad which can happen all of a sudden u gotta do the same work again
The harmonic balancer bolt? Theres a plate between the engine and transmission on the bottom like right behind the oil pan..i remove that and use a bigger flat head screwdriver to lock the flexplate from spinning..then torque it to 150ft lbs i believe it is and remove it and install reinstall plate
Youll gotta remove the plate right behind the oil pan and use a screwdriver or something like it, in between the teeth to lock the flexplate gear from turning
@@xsnowdizzle6559 yea u can either use an impact...or use a long breaker bar and socket..but to keep it from spinning youll need to lock engine and thats why i mention removing plate behind oil pan cause thats the best way to lock it
Great video! Really well detailed. One question, what is the purpose of the 1 and 7/8 rotation? I didn't understand that step. What will happen if I skip that step? Please clarify. Thanks!
Thank you🙂 the reason for doing that is to do almost full rotation of the belt and that little by little takes away the slack off the belt as u rotate it around..then when the tensioner is released the pulley with the spring will remove the remaining slack with proper tension...if u skip that step..the belt might have too much slack and is liable to possibly jump a tooth
I have a problem. I tried to use a new belt and when turning the crank to check the timing it is always one tooth ahead in the cam. It looses its timing. I reused the old one because it is long enough to fit the way it's supposed to be. It is perfectly timed but now my car idles poorly and I have a check engine light. Any help?
And it is on a toyota camry also? If so at least u cant damage anything internal these engines..have u tried to see what the check engine light is for? Maybe something was left disconnected in the process.
@@backyardchevy328 everything is connected and unfortunately I don't have a scanner and the closest workshop is 40 mins away so I have to drive the car there and I'm not sure if I should drive in this condition. What confuses me is that the cam is aligned. The crank is aligned. But it still idles poorly
@@LordHollyAngelus it could be that u need a timing adjustment by rotating the distributor but u would need a timing light..also there is a way to check the codes without a scanner if its before a certain year.
@@LordHollyAngelus oh ok yea then u would need a obd2 scanner to check the codes, i really dont think itd be timing related because if the check engine light came on its something related to a sensor or something electrical.
@@backyardchevy328 Over the years, I'd replaced the timing belt on this engine must be more than 15 times. Every car I worked on, they had oil leak at the oil pump. It's best to replace the o-ring and seal when doing timing belt.
DAYCO IS PLAYING GAMES... Dayco "slips" the Chinese junk into the kits and hopes ta god you won't return it. The green/blue grease seals on the idler and tensioner bearings means CHINA. It will say CHINA right on the bearing. If the seals are red/orange, they're Japanese Koyo or NSK- the best you can get for your Toyota. The China bearings simply do not last nearly as long as the Japanese bearings. Usually, Dayco will throw in one Chinese and one Japanese bearing in a kit, with the hopes customers won't return it if just one of the bearings is Chinese. Folks, do everyone a favor and RETURN IT, then tell Dayco why! Oddly, if you just buy the individual pieces from Dayco, you get a Japanese Asain water pump and Koyo or NSK bearings along with high quality Dayco belts. That's exactly what you want in a Camry! It's worth the small extra $$$. If you love your Camry, go with the Dayco RPM blue extended wear timing and accessory belts that will go nearly 150K miles in your non-interferance Camry engine. The book says change your t-belt at 90k miles.
Yet, another video un which the mechanic gives zero F..s about cleaning all that gunk from oil siping from either valve cover or seals. Cam and crack seals were also ignored. This will be done one more time once/if ever the seals need to be replaced...
Its not that i didnt care..owner wanted it back asap..if it were mine i would have replaced the cam seal and replaced oil pump since the housing was the cause of leak on the lower half
@@backyardchevy328 Well, maybe you should have mentioned in the video. I made an assumption based on what saw and heard. I cant believe how people neglect their vehicle to a point like that.
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One of the best video on changing timing belt and water pump on 2.2 L Toyota engine. Your no non-sense, low fat, to the point and step by step approach with clear instructions is much appreciated. Great job.
Thank you i really appreciate it🙂
@@backyardchevy328 Hello watching your video I gained confidence and the day before yesterday I started working on my Toyota Camry 2000. I replaced power steering, oil pump saal and gasket, tomorrow I will be ready to replace water pump. One think only worries me that I didn't set the engine in the center before I took off the belt. Wil I have to pot the gear pulley back , old timing belt ,tention , plastic cover with the zero mark on it , and set the angine on the zero mark, or maybe is there a different way ? Thank you.
@@musa-pv9em well yea youll have to set it to zero..but the good thing is these toyota engines are non interference engines so it wouldnt be an issue on these cars if u removed the belt before setting it to top dead center...but for engines with interference engines you definitely wanna avoid not setting it before removing the belt
This is a great, no nonsense video. Clear, organized presentation, torque specs. and wrench/socket sizes provided, quality photo shots. All around solid instructional video.
Very very descriptive and step by step instructions. Even down to torqueing the bolts and size of wrenches you need for specific parts as well as not talking about needless stuff. Straight and to the point and no bullshit like people in other videos. I will be subscribing and sharing this video definitely. Thank you Sir. You just made my life easier. I appreciate your time and hard work you put into making this video.
This is an excellent video that shows the step by step procedure. This is definitely an older 3rd gen Camry than a 1997-01 as there are some small differences, like the wiring harness at 2:42 which isn't on the 4th gen Camrys.
HERE'S A LITTLE EXTRA INFO.... If you care about continuing to get serious miles from your old Camry engine, use only KOYO Idler and Tensioner bearings. Be extra careful of using Chinese bearings which are often in the timing belt kits that Gates and Dayco offer. I know with Gates kits, they always sneak at least one Chinese Idler or Tensioner bearing into the kit, and you can be guaranteed that's where your next premature failure will occur. Luckily, the 5S-FE engine is a non-interference engine. KOYO BEARINGS SAY KOYO RIGHT ON THEM and generally have a dark reddish brown seal, NOT a blue-green seal. Be extremely weary of parts or kits of any kind purchased on eBay. Personally, I piece my kits together individually assuring KOYO or NSK, with KOYO being slightly better than NSK for most applications, however NSK is a fine Japanese-made bearing as well. KOYO bearings are literally the best bearings you can buy, which is what comes on Toyota/Lexus OEM. I run the Blue Gates Racing timing belts which are an Extended Service belt that's good for at least 100K miles, if not double the life of an ordinary t-belt. They cost a bit more, but seem to be well worth it, and YES, the Gates blue belts are now made in China. Again, the Gates Blue Racing belt is capable of double the life of a typical belt IF it's installed and tensioned correctly and there are no oil, coolant or contaminate leaks under the cover. Be sure to change out your water pump and both the cam seal and crank seal while you have the engine apart, and use GOOD seals like Toyota or Felpro. Also, change out the foam seal on the timing belt cover. It's super inexpensive. Use HOAT coolant to refill radiator. Nuff said.
Thank you🙂
Any links to the bearings? Thanks
Your comment is very enlightening. If it's not too much to ask, could you provide the codes or links for these bearings (codes from the manufacturers you recommend: Koyo and NSK)?
Do not use dorman 594-139
@@StevenHanover That number is for a Dorman harmonic balancer. What problem did you have with it?
Best video on the water pump and timing belt I've seen. Thanks for posting such a detailed step by step video.
Thank you🙂
We're so lucky to have this information for free.. Specifically THIS video above all others online. I really appreciate you taking the time to magnify on every possible step to offer clear, concise direction for this repair/replacement. I'm not a mechanic, but I've replaced many parts on my camry, and this video offers me confidence for something more advanced. Thank you. Valuable video.
This is a great video. Started the job yesterday on my 97 Celica, 234,000 miles. Finding the job very challenging due to lack of space, got as far as removing engine mount and supporting bracket, auxiliary belts, alternator. Seems procedure is same for my 2.2 Celica apart from there not being the dog bone, in mine there is just a big rubber engine mount. The engine mount support bracket attaching to the engine is very challenging to remove, the 3 bolts on mine were super tight, took my time because if you strip these you are in big trouble! Also power steering pump did not move too easy, had to loosen all 3 bolts and again this was not easy, a ratcheting wrench is pretty essential if you need to do this. Since this is a big job as well as replacing TB and water pump my Aisin kit includes a couple of pulleys, also replacing crank seal, oil pump seal and gasket, cam seal, auxiliary belts (all OEM)- I do not intend to be doing this job again at least for a while! Also putting in a new passenger side CV axle-the clicking old one removed and new one prepped and ready for install. Going back at it today, good part is there is no rush, this is not my main driver the work in our enclosed garage.
Thank you🙂 yea its definitely best to take ur time and get all that replaced. Hopefully all goes well today.. good luck🙂👍
Excellent job describing the whole process. Thank you !
Thank you🙂
The most clear and detailed video for this Toyota application ! Thanks
Excellent. Clear instructions with no distracting background noise
Great, awesome, straight to the point, thanks....From Puerto Rico.
Thank you🙂
Oops! I'm glad you videoed the piece @ 17:50. I'll have to double-check that. Thanks!
Glad to be able to help:)
This is a very well done video. I did this job once. It was in the dead of winter on a snow filled driveway. What a pain! I paid my long time mechanics to do it the next time. We also did a head gasket and valve seals at the same time. I have a spinal injury so I just could not do it then. It's a year later and the water pump just started leaking. DAMN! It's the full Dayco kit so it has a lifetime warranty. However, the labor is not covered. It's late spring (May) so my neighbor and I will be doing it tomorrow. In theory, we should have it done in one day. This is definitely one of the more idiotic water pump placements that I have ever seen. I love the car but, sometimes, the engineering leaves much to be desired. What's disappointing is that it's a Japanese car. I would expect bad engineering from the American plant but, not from Toyota, Japan. Oh well. When it works, it's a fantastic car.
I agree with another poster below. Degreasing it would have been the correct thing to do even if the client was under time constraints. A few minutes with some Purple Power and a garden hose would make a huge difference. I would worry about some of that caked crude getting into the new parts. Of course, that much crud indicates that there is a rather decent oil leak, too. That should have been serviced at the same time. It could have been only a rocker cover gasket which is a fast job. Then again, with that much goo it's hard to tell from just where it is coming. LOL
Thanks for the detailed video.
Its the way most vehicles are now made with the water pump being ran by the timing belt, i actually prefer this design over many others, due to the fact if timing belt busts or water pump seizes there will be no damage to the valves unlike on hondas audi's gm's and many other interference engines..yea i also wish i would of degreased it, it doesnt look as professional when done like that
Thank you for the video. It has helped alot.
Just what I needed step by step in one video awesome thanks I am not a mechanic but with RUclips I am 😂 ilove this videos as long as you have the tools the work is easy just take your time and keep the parts with there screws together and organized you will have blast and learn for next time or you wanto take a job like that to make some extra cash ❤
Excellent job describing the process. Thank you.
Thank you🙂
Finally I finished , it took me 21 hours in 4 days , I replaced power steering , timing belt , seal oil pump end gasket , replaced water pump in Toyota Camry 2000 .Thanks to your grate video car fired up from the first time , and purrs quietly. What I can say that without the right tools, there is no point even starting. One thing appeared, namely the red oil light , disappears when I accelerate and reappears when I slow down, the engine oil is on right level , did I do something wrong?
probably oil sending unit is bad, but hopefully nothing to do with the oil pump itself, I think you have to put these back together a set way.
The plate at 7:15 is probably why my timing belt never reached the 100k miles. Sometimes in just two weeks, I had to replace timing belt.
That was a good spot from my mechanic; now I must find a replacement part. I am scared to drive the car.
Very well made video, thanks a bunch. You are the best
Thank you🙂
That was awesome in detail. One question though. Is it a good idea to replace the front crannk seal while in there?
good video and I thought learning Chinese arithmetic at 50 was hard
Great vid I replaced it on my 01 camry but Im not sure if I have air in the system or the thermostat came defective or even the water pump . Just idling or in the street temp exactly haltf ways slitley above normal. I jump on the freeway and the temp gauge goes up to 3/4 then goes down to half and goes back and forth until I get of the freeway. Please help.
Thank you🙂 yea thats normally caused by air in the system..when engines cold and cap off u can try lifting the front of the car turning on the heater and slowly add coolant and hopefully thatll help burp the system
How do I stop my tensioner from pulling my crank pulley out of time?
After installing the timing belt and removing slack. Im noticing that the crankshaft pulley timing mark is aligned right. But the camshaft mark IS NOT IN ALIGNMENT. ITS CONSISTENLY FORWARD BY 2 inches or so...again this is when the harmonic balancer is at the zero mark. Is this okay?
Im referring to the 'camshaft gear'...the camshaft gear hole is past the camshaft vertical notch/camshaft seal area. ie. on every 2nd complete 360 degree turn of the crankshaft gear...the camshaft hole is at 1 o' clock versus the camshaft vertical mark which is 12 0'clock. I want to know can the car still run okay despite this?
I can tell that the camshaft marks are off because I made marks with white out before installing the belt. I have not tried to start the engine yet either.
To be honest the car already has 276,000 miles on it. And doesnt have a check engine light or any codes. I decided to replace the belt because It was very loose (yet fully intact. I know how bizarre right?) I bought a kit and changed the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley (I think this was the main culprit, as the spring felt weird and the tensioner pulley had VERY limited movement. Im gearing the bearings inside the tensioner pulley were worn. I checked the records for the previous owner and the timing belt was last replaced at around 185,608 miles, oil pump seals, camshaft seal and crankshaft seals were replaced then too). Yes its toyotas 5sfe engine, If I can get the car to last me another 40,000 miles Ill be more than satfisfied
Can I rotate the camshaft gear counter clockwise about 45 degrees before the camshaft gear TDC#1 timing mark....rationale: so it COULD potentially line up correctly after I reinstall the belt and rotate the crankshaft a few times?
its actually pretty common for that to happen when installing the belt..it can get irritating...but try installing the belt ahead a tooth so it possibly falls back and lines up as it should, that's what i normally do when that keeps happening....but yea if the markings are off by that much the car might run but itll be hard to start and itll run really bad...so itll be noticeable if the timing marks are off.
I have a 91 Camry, 2.0L 4 cyl that I'm about to replace the timing belt on. Can this video be used as reference for that job?
Yes, actually the timing marks are in the same spots and is the same procedure
@@backyardchevy328 Bit of a late reply, but thanks for pointing that out, I managed to get her running again and even sold it for $1300! Better than the $60 the scrap yard was offering lol
@@NerdyMathmagician thats awesome! Great job🙂👍
It's hard to reach in that tight space, but doing it while giving the camera a view must have been a real pita. Were you sometimes climbing on top of the motor? Lol. Well done.
Everyone, since you've done that much work to get there, replace the oil seals on the cam and crank. They're cheap. I've owned 3 of these Camry's and those seals leaked on every one. One was so bad I was putting 5 qts in per tank of gas.
Great video i notice that engine needs new cam seals and crank seals lot of oil seeping out.
Thank you.Мен сіздердің тілдеріңізді түсінбеймін,бірақ көремін.Kazakhstan
Thank you🙂
Hello watching your video I gained confidence and the day before yesterday I started working on my Toyota Camry 2000. I replaced power steering, oil pump saal and gasket, tomorrow I will be ready to replace water pump. One think only worries me that I didn't set the engine in the center before I took off the belt. Wil I have to leay the gear pulley back , old timing belt , tention , plastic cover with the zero mark on it , and set the angine on the zero mark, or maybe is there a different way ? Thank you.
Yea youll want to put the cam pulley into position lining it up to the hole..then align the crank pulley into position with the marks on the oil pump housing..once theyre both in position install the belt and follow steps on video
Thank you so much for your quick response , now I can go to bed without stress, thank you again.
Finally I finished , it took me 21 hours in 4 days , I replaced power steering , timing belt , seal oil pump end gasket , replaced water pump in Toyota Camry 2000 .Thanks to your grate video car fired up from the first time , and purrs quietly. What I can say that without the right tools, there is no point even starting. One thing appeared, namely the red oil light , disappears when I accelerate and reappears when I slow down, the engine oil is on right level , did I do something wrong?
@@musa-pv9em well the red oil light if its on at idle could mean either the oil pressure switch is bad or there is a slight loss of oil pressure somewhere...did u replace the oil pump or just the gaskets? it could be that one of the gaskets possibly didnt seal properly or maybe pinched the oring on a corner
Well I just replace broken seal at the oil pump ,was really hard to put it on ,so I use a red RTVto holed it on , I tried to replace gasket but there was no way to take the rack of , I went for help to workshop, they try everything even torching ,with no results the bolt sims to be locked .
5:11 hello brother! My belt snapped after my water pump when out to return it to top dead center does the belt have to be on to reset harmonic balance ?
No you can rotate the pulleys individually since those toyota camry engines are non interference meaning the valves dont touch pistons..so u can line up lower pulley on its own..then rotate cam pulley to mark as well..then install belt
@@backyardchevy328 god bless brother! True legend!
@@jonasmcguire3589 thank you🙂
What is the purpose of the extra 1 7/8 turn? Especially if you've given it a few complete turns to verify it's lined up?
Its the point where the belt is being pulled the tightest on the front side of it and the backside
So it's the place where you need to set the tensioner to keep it tight.
@@darylturcott yea thats where you'll wanna torque it
Thanks, now I know why it ran 30 seconds then jumped
@@darylturcott did it jump a tooth? The tensioner should of still been tight enough to keep it from doing that even if u tightened it at top dead center...did u loosen the tensioner bolt as u spun it the last rotations? Before torquing it?
Do you show videos for hood replacements and how to install a grille to the 1994 toyota camry ? You are so helpful
Also outside driver door handle?
Thank you🙂 i havent done any videos on em so far other than replacing those hood lifts..but i have had to replace the grilles and outer door handle on em..but if i have to replace one again..ill be sure to make a video on it
Well done video I think I feel confident of doing this rather save 400 dollars of labor I have coolant dry spots on the right side of water pump by thermostats does that make the pump bad definitely loosing coolant please hep!!
Well the pumps have a weep hole where it will start losing coolant when the seal starts to go bad..so it is possibly going bad
@@backyardchevy328thanks
by the oil on that engine you need to replace all the seal very cheap when your in there anyway
Hello! Please, could you tell me if when the timing belt breaks on the Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE engine there is damage to the cylinder head and valves?Thanks.
If the timing belt breaks on this engine, the pistons will not hit the valves, because 5S-FE is a non-interference engine.
Thank you!😊
❤🎉😊 great video
Brilliant very good details on how to align everything thanks a million and keep up the good work cheers from Los Angeles 🍻
Thank you🙂 cheers🍻
After hammering on a new harmonic balancer that was a tight fit I may messed up my crank. It only turns one ration( about 350 degrees before hitting something) shouldn’t be valves as it’s a non interference engine. Any help would much be appreciated
And u didnt have any problems rotating it before that? Were u hitting on it really hard? Yea it shouldnt be the valves..and having the top cover off u cant see anything mechanically jamming up the cam gear or any of the pulleys
Yea I was hitting but pretty hard. I tried pulling the crank back out with slide hammer to counter the hammering in but still no luck
@@DJ3rn5t im thinking it may have pushed out the harmonic balancer key and to where its kinda wedged pointing upwards and hitting housing when u rotate it
Hi, Thanks for this vid. I am about to change timing belt on my Camry 5S-FE 2000. I really like to learn how to do auto stuff myself and save money. One thing I noticed was how oiled up your engine is. What's leaking there?
Thats the oil pump gasket thats leaking, should of been replaced but owner was selling car and the buyer wanted that coolant leak fixed
Thanks! This is my 1st full Toyota WP job. It is very involved. Going slowwwwwww. Any tips on the sealant you used for the pump? It didn't seem necessary. If so, does it have to be Toyota specific?
I just used the gasket which is included..but the sealant does help hold the gasket in place with a very thin coat if u dont remove the water outlet..if u do u can use the high temp rtv sealant..which is oil resistant.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Yea thats definitely high...well an exhaust manifold leak could affect the oxygen sensor..but highly unlikely it would affect it that much...itll either be a vacuum leak at or near the intake manifold or throttle body..or it could also be caused by bad injectors too
Hello sir do you know if this particular engine is time interference?
It is a non interference motor. Thank God. Or we both would be shit out of luck.
I had the cam, crank and oil pump seal and gasket changed 60,000 miles ago when i did the timing belt on my 92 toyota camry 2.2l. No leaks so far, my question is should i change the seals with this timing belt change or wait till the next 60,000 mile timing belt change?
I would replace the seals while ur there, you'll definitely feel better about it knowing u replaced it all.
@@backyardchevy328 thanks for the quick reply, will do
@@chrisbrown6804 anytime🙂
Wait you're supposed to service the timing belt every 60,000 mi? I thought it was 100k though I haven't taken the time to look it up 🙃
@@lejoshmont2093 it was calling for 60,000 miles in my 92 Camry manual, but I’m waiting 100,000 miles due to when my car was built the belt material was not like it is today, that’s y it called for 60 but I’m doing 100
Muy instructivo el video demasiado entendible a ver si yo puedo hacer el trabajo saludos
I've watched a few times and I don't understand how all the marks are supposed to line up before, and after, the 1+ 7/8 turn. They line up before, but not after. What am I missing?
And the car turns over but won't start.
First you wanna install the belt..then turn it 2 turns to make sure that the marks are lining up..if they dont then reinstall and try again..if they do line up this time..youll wanna turn 1 & 7/8th of turn, this will put the belt in the best position to remove any slack in the belt..so at this point u wanna torque the tensioner..then turn it the last 1/8th of a turn completing the full turn making sure that the marks on the top and bottom pulley line up...if it does then u know the timing marks are lined up and the belt is properly installed
Figured it out. I was attempting to start the engine to test it before putting everything back together, so there was still a sensor unplugged (crankshaft position sensor, I think). Plugged it in and the car started right up.
@@collum2012 i did the same thing before i assembled it too when i turned it on for the video..i didn't connect it and on first take it didnt start then i connected it for the 2nd take lol..glad thats what it was🙂👍
Replace the oil pump seals and the cam and crank seals, for the novice mechanic It takes a few more hours, but it saves many headaches down the road. I buy that same kit except I upgrade to the one that comes with the seals. the cost is around 80.00
I also coat the waterpump gasket with sealant on both sides. IDK if its necessary, but ive done that to 4 camrys with no issues so far.
@@justatool actually the whole oil pump is leaking so i decided to leave that for a later video, since the owner wasnt prepared for the extra cost...but yes they should replace the seals.
@@backyardchevy328 When you put the oil pump back in do you need to prime the pump by packing grease or Vasoline in the rotor cavity ?
@@rickrick9783 i do prime the oil pumps by pouring oil in the feed hole and rotate the shaft til it starts coming out the outlet hole
so what do you think if I ride with that red oil light, is it safe for the engine? ..
Well oil light means its not enough oil pressure circulating..so that lack of oil could wear out the internals of the engine faster than normal..or if bad enough could cause bad damage to it
Thank you for replies
@@backyardchevy328 today I got to the oil pump again, I took it out half and put on the gasket finally. The seal I put it on yesterday and it was intact .I installed everything back and started the car, unfortunately this time the red oil light does not go out when accelerating, it remains. What to do? ..
很好的教学视频，谢谢上传!
謝謝
I'm stuck on the power, well cuz it's stuck! The 10mm is lose and I pull on the belt, the power steering doesn't move...suggestion???!
If it doesnt move loosen the upper bolt as well and itll free it up to move
@@backyardchevy328 thanks for the quick reply! I just didn't want to loosen/remove that I shouldn't. It's so tight in that area I can't tell what's what(I'm a diy'er). I see 3 bolts/nuts up there ...
@@juan4you_80 i wish i had done a better job of explaining that..itll be one bolt thats exactly straight across from that bolt u loosened..itll be just above the pulley
@@backyardchevy328 got it! Thanks again for the great video. I watched the whole thing to prepare, now I'm in it and that's been the only issue🙏🏼
@@juan4you_80 thats great! Great job🙂👍
I was charge 465 oil pump seal & timing belt. Good deal?
Was that just labor or including parts as well?
Backyard Chevy labor & Parts.
@@vcrxnkzy-4261 yea, then thats about what ud normally get charged for that
Backyard Chevy I called & places told me 750-1000 ridiculous!! I’m upset my water pump wasn’t changed but it wasn’t needed
@@vcrxnkzy-4261 yea i would be too..the water pump should be replaced with timing belt because when the pump goes bad which can happen all of a sudden u gotta do the same work again
How did you get the 80ft lbs torque on the main bolt with out it spinning?
The harmonic balancer bolt? Theres a plate between the engine and transmission on the bottom like right behind the oil pan..i remove that and use a bigger flat head screwdriver to lock the flexplate from spinning..then torque it to 150ft lbs i believe it is and remove it and install reinstall plate
Backyard Chevy great cus I was wondering about that part. 👊🏼thanks
Very helpful video. Thank you sir
Thank you🙂
How do you keep the pulley from moving when removing the bolt? Do I need a impact?
Youll gotta remove the plate right behind the oil pan and use a screwdriver or something like it, in between the teeth to lock the flexplate gear from turning
I’m talking about the harmonic balancer how do I get that off without it turning at TDC
@@xsnowdizzle6559 yea u can either use an impact...or use a long breaker bar and socket..but to keep it from spinning youll need to lock engine and thats why i mention removing plate behind oil pan cause thats the best way to lock it
I appreciate the reply’s thanks to you I completed my very first timing belt and oil pump replacement.
I was afraid to mess something up but this video was just so informative thanks again.
Do you have a video for replacing oil pump?
Unfortunately no...i was gonna replace it but owner found a good deal on a similar car with lower miles and never got around to having me replace it.
what is the size of the timing belt?where can i buy one?pls nid help guys.
Well u can either get it at any auto parts store or u can also order em from like amazon
Where are u located
I enjoy watching the video, on problem the volume sound is very low.
Thank you🙂...like the vocals are too low or all the sound noises?
Vai timing belt 1054+75mm rubaring price
Great video! Really well detailed. One question, what is the purpose of the 1 and 7/8 rotation? I didn't understand that step. What will happen if I skip that step? Please clarify. Thanks!
Thank you🙂 the reason for doing that is to do almost full rotation of the belt and that little by little takes away the slack off the belt as u rotate it around..then when the tensioner is released the pulley with the spring will remove the remaining slack with proper tension...if u skip that step..the belt might have too much slack and is liable to possibly jump a tooth
@@backyardchevy328 Thanks!
Great job, thanks
Thank you🙂
Alternator bolt disppear, harmonic balancer dorman 594-139 does not fit. Try DA-22.
Real knuckle buster
Good vid 👌 I went step by step with it and it was seriously super helpful
I have a problem. I tried to use a new belt and when turning the crank to check the timing it is always one tooth ahead in the cam. It looses its timing. I reused the old one because it is long enough to fit the way it's supposed to be. It is perfectly timed but now my car idles poorly and I have a check engine light. Any help?
And it is on a toyota camry also? If so at least u cant damage anything internal these engines..have u tried to see what the check engine light is for? Maybe something was left disconnected in the process.
@@backyardchevy328 everything is connected and unfortunately I don't have a scanner and the closest workshop is 40 mins away so I have to drive the car there and I'm not sure if I should drive in this condition. What confuses me is that the cam is aligned. The crank is aligned. But it still idles poorly
@@LordHollyAngelus it could be that u need a timing adjustment by rotating the distributor but u would need a timing light..also there is a way to check the codes without a scanner if its before a certain year.
@@backyardchevy328 mine is a 2001 Camry. It doesn't have a distributor, it has ignition coils
@@LordHollyAngelus oh ok yea then u would need a obd2 scanner to check the codes, i really dont think itd be timing related because if the check engine light came on its something related to a sensor or something electrical.
It helps to clean the grease off your new car first before showing the work on camera..
yea i know especially in high def..i should of degreased it but i was in a time crunch since owner needed it for work.
I would replace oil pump seals too.
Yea, the housing gasket was leaking too
@@backyardchevy328 Over the years, I'd replaced the timing belt on this engine must be more than 15 times. Every car I worked on, they had oil leak at the oil pump. It's best to replace the o-ring and seal when doing timing belt.
@@glenglene8473 yes definitely
New Harmonic balancer wont slide back on, the boiling for 10 minutes did nothing to ease it onto the key port...god have mercy...
great
Thank you🙂
DAYCO IS PLAYING GAMES... Dayco "slips" the Chinese junk into the kits and hopes ta god you won't return it. The green/blue grease seals on the idler and tensioner bearings means CHINA. It will say CHINA right on the bearing. If the seals are red/orange, they're Japanese Koyo or NSK- the best you can get for your Toyota. The China bearings simply do not last nearly as long as the Japanese bearings. Usually, Dayco will throw in one Chinese and one Japanese bearing in a kit, with the hopes customers won't return it if just one of the bearings is Chinese. Folks, do everyone a favor and RETURN IT, then tell Dayco why!
Oddly, if you just buy the individual pieces from Dayco, you get a Japanese Asain water pump and Koyo or NSK bearings along with high quality Dayco belts. That's exactly what you want in a Camry! It's worth the small extra $$$. If you love your Camry, go with the Dayco RPM blue extended wear timing and accessory belts that will go nearly 150K miles in your non-interferance Camry engine. The book says change your t-belt at 90k miles.
Yet, another video un which the mechanic gives zero F..s about cleaning all that gunk from oil siping from either valve cover or seals. Cam and crack seals were also ignored. This will be done one more time once/if ever the seals need to be replaced...
Its not that i didnt care..owner wanted it back asap..if it were mine i would have replaced the cam seal and replaced oil pump since the housing was the cause of leak on the lower half
@@backyardchevy328 Well, maybe you should have mentioned in the video. I made an assumption based on what saw and heard. I cant believe how people neglect their vehicle to a point like that.
@@petkoandreev7869 yea, i wish i had..especially since all that gunk looks so bad
watching on video is so easy when i try to apply on my car every time i break some thing 😐 or the bolts become more than it was i don't know why😁
Yea, it always looks easier on video..but maybe this time everything will go smoothly🙂👍
Very careful recorded. Shows you care about diy people
Thank you🙂
So much work just for a timing belt...huh
Well if it wasnt for the water pump and outlet fix, its actually pretty easy in comparison to other timing belt replacements out there.
Leaking oil....overheating. fml
Buy a toyota with a timing chain instead and save yourself a lot of hassle.