Oil Leak? DRILL it out! (Toyota Camry) + Timing Belt & EGR repair
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- The 2000 Toyota Camry is back in the shop for the recommended repairs to restore this legend to its former glory before the long journey to sunny Texas.
In this video we fix the following problems:
-EGR solenoid (replace and test system)
-Cam plug oil leak (extract with with a DRILL!)
-Coolant hose bursting (replace)
-loose timing belt (replace and tension)
-oil pump leak (replace gasket)
Enjoy!
Ivan
A quality cam belt kit comes with an oil pump seal set because of the regularity of the pulp seal leaking...Easy job..Done many...You should be able to twist the belt on the long side to 90 degrees...A rule of thumb from the past...You done good mate.
I retired a diesel instructor.......but have always loved to diagnose car issues.....Love the way you fix it the right way....Well done
Wow! Rust free! That was just too easy to pull off crank belt pulley. Ohhhh.... so spoiled on this job. One of my favorite style timing belts! Miss these!
Haha Cuba I know! Cuts the labor time in half ;)
Good job with all the stuff needing repairs. I've found, once you disturb those spring clamps and reuse them, THEY LEAK! My 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L has them. More than once when I would reuse them, they would leak. Add the worm drive clamp, no problem!
Keep the videos coming in 2019!
THANKYOU!
instablaster
All that filming after dark, cold weather, not as an easy job as you make it look. Last time I was able to read the clock on the dash it was close to 11pm and you weren't done yet. Respect!
Thank you for taking the time to make this informative video, including positioning the camera carefully in difficult locations, and explaining step-by-step. You present yourself well. If I was in your vicinity I would want to hire you.
I bought that hose clamp tool in or around 2000. Mine is made by Mayhew tools, its p/n is 28650. Lots of companies have copied the design since. Extremely handy in tight spots.
Nice job. I've a 99 camry with the four cylinder. That crusty stuff might be from the antifreeze they're using. Toyota uses a red antifreeze, it's not priced bad either. I get it straight, unmixed with water, and mix it 60/40. If anyone is doing this themselves, change the oil pump seal, crank seal and cam seal and waterpump too at this time. If you're paying someone, do it also, otherwise you'll pay again IF they go bad. I put that plug in dry, using a socket close to diameter of plug to pound on gently, I also put some sealer around the edges on outside edge. These are so easy to maintain and they'll outrun the energizer bunny.
Can i do this for the first time in a weekend?
Actually that round seal cap by the camshaft doesn't have to be replaced, that's a common factory problem with this Toyota Camry's 4th generation I have owned 3 of them two 1998s and a 2000 all 3were leaking oil from that same area, this is a common problem once they get to over 100 thousand miles I fixed all three by simply removing a few parts to expose the problem area scrape off anything that might be in the way and clean with brake cleaner around the seal cap and simply apply some permatex gasket maker the gray or black that is used for the valve cover job apply nicely all around and let it dry a half hour before putting everything back and wait 24 hours to make sure it cures before driving the car again this is a permanent solution, there's really nothing wrong with the seal cap, the way he did it it will leak again eventually I saw this other guy apply permatex gasket maker on the new seal cap before replacing that actually makes more sense than applying oil, but my way will save you time going to the dealership and a few dollars too and is permanent if you do it correctly no way no how any oil is going to leak anymore. But this method is cool too if you care about it looking nice lol. Is a hidden area so no one is going to see it anyways but but if you apply permanent gasket maker around the new seal cap and tap it in gently in place right away before gasket maker gets hard and then just a light coat all around it that would definitely be permanent solution and it would look even better than the professional mechanics, I only have one of the 98 Camrys left it runs perfect and I love how smooth this car runs but eventually I have to upgrade my 2008 Corolla is a good upgrade not as smooth, engine a little buzzy but has surprising acceleration power and can handle the most extreme summer weather I love this car and is actually even easier to work on than my 4 cylinder 98 Camry I didn't think that was possible but it is lol.
Is Hi Temp red silicone RTV OK? 1 hour set time, 24 hours for complete cure. That's what I have on hand. (I'm a newbie). Will the silicone RTV go bad after I open it after a year like house caulk? Thanks
I like the spring clamps for hoses. They self adjust for shrinkage of the rubber hose over time. Don't push the heater hoses tight against the firewall since any leaks there will enter the passenger compartment. That would look like bad heater core.
Great job
Good point
Wow IVAN you are the best I've seen yet, keep em coming!
Hey Ivan, those series of engines along with the rav4 of the same era have issues with oil pump leaks. Have done several and yes aftermarket is junk. Be careful setting belt tension. To tight when cold will make her sing at operating temp. They do need to be adjusted from time to time.
Yeah, I had one of these for a few years and a slow oil pump seep was the only issue I ever had. Best car I ever owned for reliability and easy to work on, now my brother owns it and loves it. 5S-FE for life! 🙂
Ivan, I did two Toyota's with 94 and '02 both were v6, did timing belt and water pump job. A bit difficult job doing the tension, lol. But in the end, it was fine the way it was supposed to. Engine runs beautifully. Still running to this day. (About two years ago I did them) also I did a Celica with engine just like that with timing belt and oil pump leak. Exactly the same you did, haha. It was over a year ago. Excellent video! Enjoyed it, :) thumbs up from me,
Yeah Josh, Toyota made some silky smooth long-lasting engines back in the day!
I always do a new belt tensioner, idler pulley bearing, and water pump with the timing belt. That is for my cars, a customer might not want to pay for the extra parts, so I get the “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it”.
The additional parts make sense they wear out too and you don't want the engine to suffer a catastrophic failure.
Nice work sir. I bought a pair of hose clamp pliers like that a couple of years ago and have yet to use them. Turns out that a pair of long reach 90 needle nose pliers works most of the time for me. Thanks Ivan!
Thanks John! I like the locking feature so you can slide the clamp off easy and not bust your fingers :)
I used a regular pair of pliers to hold a hose clamp. When my hand got tired, it slipped and nearly took out my eye.
Well not exactly, but close enough. The locking feature frees both hands to position the hose.
Good to be back Ivan! That hose clamp gizmo was slick!
Good to see you too, Chuck!
Thank you for this. I'm pretty good mechanically but never messed with a timing belt. I was intimidated but after watching this I shouldn't have any problems. So thank you again!
it's a noninterference motor , so good to learn on
You covered so much in this video just like the title said. Good camera and great sound. Excellent narration and you got the belt on first shot like a boss, thanks buddy
I appreciate the comment!
You need to start a Amazon store for the tools you use on your channel.
Ivan, it is always a pleasure to see your work and instruction. I always enjoy you and Eric O. together in videos. It is obvious to me that your friend Keith is an excellent Technician also.GOD bless you and your family.
I got a set of five hose-clip pliers from Amazon including the one you used in the video for around 25 bucks to tackle the water valve on my BMW. I couldn't have done the job without it.
Thanks to your video, I fixed my car using your EGR test with a much cheaper Xtools D7 scanner. This scanner also has an actuator function and I used that to verify my VSV was working by blowing into the vacuum lines on top of the engine.
Turned out my EGR modulator was the culprit.
Funny thing was the previous owner took it to a shop, and they installed a new VSV, when the existing VSV was not broken.
As I said in your previous video, you gotta lift up on the tensioner pulley as you tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to get the tension correct according to many Toyota master techs. The tensioner spring tension is not enough alone.
Yup I did that after barring the engine over a couple times to make sure the belt was in its "happy place" :)
Which is why if you buy a Asian timing belt kit you get no spring with it. They want you to buy a Toyota replacement spring which is shorter then the original. And then you don't need any special master tech knowledge.
When you said the words “transmission flush” a chill went down my spine 😂
Sweeeeeet - another 'Yota ready to run another 200k miles. Nice work! 👍👍
Speaking of Camry’s. I would love to see you diag an OBD1 94 6 cyl Camry with a misfire. My car. Rust free southern car.
I enjoy your videos very much. Around here if I decide to do a post mortem on anything, my Mrs. calls it “doing an Ivan”.
The guys I worked it the dealership would have thought I was a moron if I went through the process to verify the new part was good. Just one reason why I don't work there anymore and am at a good Indy shop now. Love the videos, Ivan!
I've seen too many parts, even occasionally a dealer OEM one be bad right out of the box. Takes only a few seconds to check it on the bench and is definitely worth the peace of mind!!
I always spray the hoses down with some WD-40 before trying to slide the clamps off. Makes that part go a lot easier. Also I spray some on the nipple plus inside and outside the hose before reassembling to make that part go easier too.
When you ended video ,I thought you were getting ready to go deer hunting with the face markings, all in all great video.
Ivan, that camry repair was good to watch because I have a few friends with camry's so thanks for the look into it's repairs!
I am one of a probably very small number of people who actually like those type of hose clamps.
You can use your flashing headlight as a stop-motion strobe light with moving parts.
Try it some time, it's pretty cool.
Nice job on filming and tips. Ie silicone hose . Clamp tool. Egr verification test.
Make sure you have another light so we can see. Bunch of shadows in the oil pump segment. Thanks! Speciba!
Simple diag for a bad EGR vsv is to check for egr opening on a cold engine with a mirror or just sticking your finger in the small hole while revving engine and feel the plunger moving.
So i have a 1998 camry im fixing up and this seal leaked so bad it got on top of the transmission speed sensor wiring harness, the oil went throught the harness, through the top of the sensor, and the oil actually started seeping into the sensor and into the trans fluid itself. Luckily I caught this issue in time because i took the trans off to reseal some things and i found this and the oil hadnt made it past the top of the shaft of the sensor yet. Its just something else to check out after replacing that oil seal.
Rexen, same thing happen to me. had a trans issue and it was the damage cause to the harness and sensor by the leaking oil from the plug
Great job Ivan.
To be fair, I would have put some RTV, just a very thin film of it, on that oil pump seal, to ensure it would stick to the block and stay in place while I was getting the oil pump realligned and into position. There's nothing worse than putting a seal or a convoluted O-Ring gasket in place, fitting the part, tightening all the bolts, only to realise that the gasket has shifted slightly and has been pinched.
If those pulleys receave even microscopic level of deformity, especially in their axis, they will vibrate and that vibration has a very good chance of triggering the resonancy effect. If not sooner then later, because vibration speeds up the wear out of timing belt and thus makes it even more susceptible to resonancy.
Great videos Ivan. A suggestion for perhaps a future video: Can you explain how a breakout box when diagnosing
.....how a breakout box is used to diagnose Com issues?
breakout box just makes it easier to attach a scope or meter to the DLC. Then you need information on what the communication line waveforms should look like. Check out Keith's channel "New Level Auto" he has some great case studies using the breakout box :)
I've got a 98 Camry, I did the timing belt years ago at 97K miles... it's got 118K on it now. I had a new water pump to put in but the old one looked good .... and all the other stuff that came with the new timing belt. I wound up just changing the belt and thought I'll fix the other things as they go bad. Thus far nothing has gone bad (thus far). One thing I'm kind of anal about is using Toyota antifreeze. I spent a lot of time checking it out and last time I checked Toyota antifreeze is about the only thing that meets their specs. It's pink or red, diluted premix or the concentrate. I even broke down and bought a gallon of the stuff from the local Toyota dealer. The fluids now days in cars is getting ridiculous, it almost takes a minor in chemistry to make sure you are getting the right stuff. We get so concerned about quality parts but forget the specs on the fluids.
So you didn’t change the water pump?
I’ve got a ‘99. I didn’t change the water pump until the second timing belt change. There didn’t appear to be any issues with the original pump. I would say your should change it at the next belt change. Also change the oil pump o-ring and seal as that will start leaking by about that time. I always use the Toyota coolant too...
When was your second belt change? Time and miles?
HondaSolutions - 2nd belt was at 182K, 6 years ago. 185K cam cover seal, 200K EGR VSV, 219K oil pump seals, 226K oil pump seals again (shaft was leaking). It has about 235K on it now. Only problem is the valve stem seals need to be replaced. I’ll do the TB again when I do that.
That’s why you didn’t need a new pump until the second timing belt change was because it was 6 years ago. Time has wear on parts just like mileage does. Especially seals (water pump). When changing the water pump with the timing belt you have to consider the risk vs benefit. The risk is having to do it again if it leaks, possibly overheating the engine and causing a head gasket failure. The cost is less than $50. The benefit is piece of mind. I think the benefit far outweighs the risk on this car in the video at this time when it is 19 years old.
Love the hose clamp widget - sweet!
Great 👍 video!!!! After 20 years of ownership. Mine is due for all these things.
Ivan,
Great video and repairs - thank you! You will have a happy/satisfied customer. Have a good time in S.I.
God bless
Paul
OK, I know that OEM parts like gaskets are considered good BUT I did find an o-ring from Apex that is silicone. It seems to me that silicone would be a better application for the o-ring than the OEM material (not silicone) simply because silicone has the best resistance to heat and thereby hardening from heat. I would think that the OEM seal would be better than the Apex one as it looks like the OEM one. Have you tried a silicone o-ring for this car (4th gen. camry 4cyl.)?
I have found that a thin coat of permatex # 2 inside of the hose eases installation and insures sealing and never use jubilee clamps, always use spring clamps .
Yes there was a distributor there in previous years. The 5S-FE was the best engine IMO. First introduced I believe in the 1992 Camry . The smaller 3S-FE basically the same engine mechanically in prior Camry generations as well as Celica's. The 5S-FE was also used in the first gen RAV4. I got 500,00 miles out of my 92 Camry and was still going when I sold it. Best car I ever had. The 3S-GTE was good but prone to early oil leaks. The V6's were okay, but the 4 cylinder 5S-FE was bullet proof. The other thing I liked about the 5S-FE over the V6 is it used a MAP sensor where as the V6 used the AFM.
Yup the 4-banger is super smooth and quiet in this application. Toyota made some legendary engines back in the 90s!
Awesome job! I’m having similar issues with P0401 and seal plug leaking oil on my 98 Camry. Your video has made my job easier 👍 Thanks!
I'm not a mechanic but I'm on my second 1998 Toyota Camry le 4cyl. The first I bought 2 and a half years ago was a great car but I got hit back in April this year and the car was totally destroyed so I bought me another one just like the first one same year same everything even had the same mileage 110 thousand miles and one of the things I checked on the second one is too see if the seal plug cap by the valve cover behind the bracket that holds the ignition coils was leaking, because my first 98 Camry was leaking from that area, so at first I didn't notice any leak but just a couple weeks ago it started leaking, so like I said I'm not a mechanic and I watched a couple of RUclips videos on how to fix this issue, but I decided to use my own common sense, first I realized that this is a common problem with this cars and the reason it leaks over time at around 100 thousand miles is not because there's a problem with the cap seal, but because it was installed by the manufacturer with just a thin coat of silicone sealant that eventually wears out and develops a nasty leak it starts slow but if not fixed it can get pretty ugly, so what I did using my common sense I remove the fat air intake hose and the partially removed the throttle body so that I could have enough room to remove the bolt on the right corner that holds the ignition coils bracket to expose the seal cap so I just removed the excess silicone around the cap carefully and clean around that area with brake cleaner and then I applied permatex gasket maker silicone sealant the ultra black, I nicely applied it all around the seal cap enough of it but not too much just enough to know that no way oil was going to get through anymore and it worked perfectly on my first 98 Camry and is working perfectly on my second Camry, I got a flashlight and got under my car just last week to check if it was still leaking and it was completely dry what I did of course when I did the repair I cleaned all the oil residue that fell on the bottom of the engine block close to the transmission and I also cleaned all the hoses and ignition coils and everything completely dry is a lot easier than removing the cap, buying another one, I can't make a video on how I fixed it because I don't have the knowledge all the things that are needed to make videos, but if you can understand my writing I'm pretty sure it will make sense to you. Of course if the seal cap was broken or damaged I would have replaced it but it was perfectly fine on both cars just needed a little more silicone sealant . Oh also very important let the silicone sealant dry for about a half hour before you put everything back and if you can wait until the next day before you drive your car to let the silicone sealant dry ,plan ahead of time the whole job is only an hour and a half if you take your time like I did just keep track of everything you removed take pictures so you don't mess up when you start putting things back.
Lots of dodgy bits done, that heater hose really degraded and that cable tool is magic :-D.
Any tool that can make most jobs simpler is well worth having :-D.
I've used the hole and screw idea for removing metal plugs in carbs, the old pincers are great for gripping the screw and the levering action.
Yes!!! You recorded as promised. I knew you were a man of your word!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice to see you work and have learned a lot from your work 👍 Thanks again
Toyota's timing belt replacement early warning system in action.
5S-FE was non-interference, no warning system required. 😉
Wise decisions during this repair, Ivan.
spelunkerd really? Doing all that work and not replacing the water pump? My money is on that water pump failing before the next 90k miles when the next timing belt is due given how old the car is.
The cam plug is easy to change by pulling the valve cover that way all of the gaskets are nice and fresh
I'm being washing your work and you explain very good so congratulations
because part of me knows what you're thinking thanks Ivan for the video I love the hammer action
Gates timing belt, Dorman oil pump gasket...I'd be concerned about the crappy Gates water pump that's probably on that thing. I hate to see people buy that junk when, for $20 more, Aisin makes a fantastic kit which is likely the OEM anyway.
johnaclark1 dorman and Gates water pumps suck. Wouldn’t trust them
Get Aisin kit, it's OEM Japan and US made belt, bearings and water pump at fraction of deal parts cost.
You did the cam plug the hard way. Take vv cover off and drive a self-tapping screw through old plug and pull it in from the inside. Install is easier, and use sealer so it never leaks again.. No need to take all the TB, coil & bracket off.
Ivan,
You were only a few bolts away from replacing the water pump.
Proper cooling is key to engine longevity.
I would have given the car a good pump while you were there.
Time Stamp: 11:00 Good Enough, I've heard that before LOL..... No seriously Been watching Pine Hollow and Ivan for a while now and he know's what He's doing.....
If there is a loud whirring sound with a new belt then it was installed too tight. If the idler and tensioner are a bit worn it will burn them up and lose the belt. And possibly do some other damage under the covers.
Great work Ivan! I gotta do my timming chain tensioner oil leak repair on my corolla too hopefully i won't be too bad.
Good luck!
Lol!! A trip planned to visit Keith?? Great idea!! I know, how about taking your brother along, too?? That would be great!! You might want to leave a bit early, you know, just in case there's a traffic jam, due to road construction, OR A WRECK, or something!! Just a guess. wink wink
I enjoy all of your videos. Thanks.
Nice and clean pro active maintenance and repair!
After many leaks from those OEM spring clamps I just throw them out & use nice shiny new screw clamps.
Superb dirty hand face wipe at the end. We all know how that one works.
6 months. That would be a record for us.
Maybe 6 weeks then?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Let's go with that number.
Ouch
6 weeks is for blend door actuators....
I would like to thank Dorman for supplying a replacement exhaust manifold for my 2010 Chevrolet Equinox 2.4 liter 4 cylinder gasoline engine, after the OEM manifold cracked around 90% of runner between cylinders 2 and 3, as occurs on every other example of this particular engine, just as soon as the basic warranty expires, so I am led to believe by numerous owners. (For those who own one but doubt this, remove the heat shield from the top of the manifold and look carefully with a flashlight.) I also want to thank Dorman for improving on the original design by beefing up the casting and making it just long enough so that it absolutely will not fit into the space provided by Chevrolet when the engine was designed and the car was built. Just as soon as I have ground off enough metal to shoehorn it onto place and get it bolted up, I hope the 7-days-in-service warranty will be enough for me to sell this vehicle, so I’ll be free at last from my Chevy travails. And thanks to Ivan for another great video and highlighting the value of having a place to work that’s indoors, and having exactly the right tool for each job, knowing where those tools are in the shop, and how to use those tools to enable an on-time departure for a trip to scenic Staten Island.
That was a great visual of the loose belt. Your quality of work should make for some happy customers. I'm glad your full time job hasn't taken you away from doing auto repairs or from doing videos. I always appreciate the information and lessons. Are you going to TST in March? I'll be there.
Hi Wyatt! TST in March...I hope to be there!
At the end Ivan, you look like you have been working on a car!
A 2000 Camry with only 130k that's pretty rare these days!
haha yeah same mileage as that 2001 with the EVAP problems...same color too!!
What? A broken Toyota?? Scotty Kilmer is waving his arms!
GREAT job as always:)
You need a lift in your place man..
Well done as usual, Ivan.
Hey Ivan, i noticed you started the engine on the camry without the harmonic balancer attached. I once did that after replacing the timing belt on my chevy aveo and the belt flung off and bent some valves. I thought i would share this with you to prevent stupid mistakes from happening.
Yup, almost happened to me too! Good advice
On a second watch of the video, it seems like the balancer is installed.
Stéphane Bernard you are correct, i mistakened the oil pump pulley for the crank pulley
I agree, but I dont think they are interference engines. Still not a great idea tho like u said
dang sorry to hear about that. I always put all the guides and balancer in place before firing it up :)
At the end when your outside and your wiping the grease off of your face, I was mesmerised by the view behind you! It's pretty awesome! What a beautiful area! We're are you located? It's a pretty area from what I'm seeing! At least at your place it seems that way!
You're in State College, and I'm in RI, but I can get my car to you. I have a 99 Camry, and when it comes time to do my T-belt next year, I'd love if you could do it. I have all the parts- Both Koyo tensioner and idler bearings, a blue Gates extended use racing T-belt. Cover kit and cam seal and crank seal. I don't do Chinese, except the food. Let me know.
Feel a bit ignorant asking this, but why was the belt so loose? Did the tensioner fail, too?
1:56 Ivan smokin a blunt
I thought it was a crack pipe.
At the end- you look like a Commando on a mission.
When drilling out the cam plug, aren't you afraid of getting metal chips inside the head around the camshaft bearings?
Another great video Ivan.
MRS PINE HOLLW: what's that on you face, Ivan?
IVAN: just a little lipstick from the woman at the bar last night. Why do you ask?
MRS PINE HOLLOW: YOU BEEN WORKING ON CARS AGAIN, HAVEN'T YOU?
IVAN: No darling. I swear it's lipstick. I haven't been nowhere near a car!! I PROMISE!! It was black lipstick, she was goth!! Honest!! I was drinking, and messing with cheap women!! Both of them!!
MRS PINE HOLLOW: YOU SMELL LIKE GREASE AND BRAKE CLEAN!! I knew it! You were working on cars, again!! You probably have some wild weekend planned, too!! Your going to New York, and hang around with other mechanics, and in a repair shop, too!! I knew it!! I'll bet you even have your brother in on it!! DONT YOU LIE TO ME!!
Oh.... The memories of married life. And I got to keep my dog, my truck. AND my best friend!! Wait!! Did I just write lyrics to a new country song??
its war paint dear
My dog left me and my car died but da bitch ain't movin.
You forgot to add the part where she reminds him that he's been promising for the last 8 months to replace the wallpaper in the living room -- but that he's been repairing cars instead.
I would like to suggest that if you're taking the trouble to remove the oil pump and replace the O-ring, you could also replace the oil pump gasket on which the oil pump pulley spindle rotates (another typical source of leaks in this engine). You just have to remove the sprocket and pull it out. You can get a kit that includes the O-ring, that gasket and a crankshaft pulley gasket for less than $12. I found one that's less than $4 at RockAuto with a silicone O-ring: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8199236&jsn=1
Also you can grease the spindle when you re-assemble the oil pump.
Finally, you may want to put the plug in with some sensor safe silicone RTV instead of motor oil when changing the plug; the valve cover could expand and pop out the plug if it's not well seated.
That's about it. I did learn a few tips from your video. Thanks for the warning about the crappy Dorman seals. They are notorious for crappy parts in general and I would only use them in an emergency.
One question: The crankshaft pulley came right off for you. I have watched many a video where they were stuck tight. Do you find that more of them are difficult to remove or that more than half will just come off easily? I'm weighing the odds of having to use a pulley puller.
I've never seen this procedure done without removing the alternator, wow.
Guess it wasn't really in the way...except for the camera shot haha
A job WELL DONE !
I know it’s a silly question but if changing a timing belt the teeth are supposed to fit a certain way. Is it possible to screw it up? I can’t imagine how that would be possible since the belt itself is rigid and rigidly conforms. Thanks to the fellow or gal who responds. Appreciate
It's always possible to screw anything up. But the only way to learn is to do it yourself 👍🙂
Good stuff. Where did u get the new blue/green coolant line?
Should have used Toyota red/pink coolant or prestone Asian formula which is also pink I believe.
What's the difference? I have used green Preston many times on my Camry.
Ivan Come to Boston I got a lot of work for you...
Those hose clamps have been giving me trouble (not leaking but R&R) I started using good USA band clamps.
@16:25 I've seen a youtuber use a steel braided cable to scrape debris off the nipple.
Whats the number part of the Coolant Hose Bursting? I think i need to replace it too
All done with Lord Scotty Kilmer's blessing! Fantastic! Good job!
Before I knew any better I installed a cheap chinesium timing belt kit from rockauto on my 2001 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder. Right out of the box I could tell the replacement oil pump gasket looked like a worthless bit of black spaghetti. Instead I installed a OEM Toyota gasket. So far the chinesium kit + OEM replacement oil pump gasket has 50,000 miles on it. However don't make my mistake, buy quality parts.
Excellent job.
Interesting times we're living in when we need to test the new parts. It's a shame. I wonder if Dorman's way of selling parts cheaper was to completely eliminate quality control.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! So informative!
I am so spoiled doing timing belts on my honda's if I seen a belt flap in the wind like that I would automatically trash the tensioner and get an oem just to know I can sleep at night, but that engine is a none interference engine so it can live another day if the belt broke. Interference engines make amazing power but they sure blow to pieces when things go wrong.
Yup non-interference = bulletproof :)
Just because an engine is non interference doesn’t make it bulletproof. The J and F series Honda engines are pretty bulletproof (which are interference). Just take regular maintenance. See them all the time with just as many miles as Toyota 5FS, 1MZ engines.
I’ve seen guys recommend rear main seals and oil pans for that cam plug leaking....very sad
How many of us would refuse the job if the customer was unwilling to opt for OEM parts? Especially since outlets like RockAuto & Partsology show such drastically lower prices.
I would do the job still but making them clear about faults
I tell my customers go OEM for critical parts like the oil pump housing gasket, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, etc. I always tell them if you were the mechanic and put cheap Rockauto parts, etc., then it fails prematurely you have to redo what you did previously.
@@dc5723 There are good brands (including OEM) on Rockauto, and they can be substantially cheaper than what the dealer (or local NAPA/Advance/whatever) even after factoring in shipping. When my sister decided to listen to the dealer and they wanted to change the positive battery cable (read: wiring harness) on her 2011 F-150 that part was $260 from the local Ford dealer, never mind labor. $187 from Advance, still the Motorcraft part. Rockauto was $150 incl. shipping.
Of course, the only thing wrong was the positive terminal being corroded (the lower "ring" was nothing but white powder left on the terminal when I removed it) and the battery, the latter of which was replaced under warranty from the dealer. One $15 terminal (part BT4Z-14450-AA) and a wiring repairing later and the truck was up and running again.
But really, the main thing is don't buy a part just because it is the cheapest and your average customer doesn't know which brands to avoid like the plague (Dorman et al).
First Rockauto parts can be cheaper. They have no phone customer service. No expensive store front. No shareholders who want giant profits so they pass the savings to us. I have not had a Rock Auto mid or high range part fail yet. If you buy bottom end parts they will fail!
@@Strasedon Yes you are correct, I did buy Aisin and Denso parts from Rockauto.