one of the few videos out there for a 94 ford ranger, 4.0 L. I have AC and the ford is a 4x4. As most of us will testify...having the right tools for the job makes a difference. Thanks for the video...lots of tips.
I have that one in Mazda dress. Stuffing the 4.0 into the small truck makes for some cramped access. 4x4 makes it worse! I replaced the clutch recently. Nightmare!
I have a '95 "Rice Ranger," I.e. Mazda. I did exactly what you did, but also replaced the fan clutch. The Cologne 4.0 V6 is a shoehorn fit into that small truck chassis, especially if it's 4WD. My pushrod V6 has 260,000 miles on it, and burns no oil and passes Utah's emission inspection easily. It easily rates as one of Ford's best engines.
My 2000 Explorer OHV overheated at 200,000 miles after the heater hose broke(plastic), and made it all the way to 240,000 before it started to burn coolant. I replaced the heads and I’m good to go again. I’ll be doing the short block in the future unless I swap in the 5.0 OHV. The old ford pushrods last forever.
My temp on 97 4.0 ohv ranger cools when accelerating off of the stoplight and slowly creeps back up to normal temp. Never overheats. Seems like my issue could be this as well.
It's interesting you mention over cooling. A lot of people don't know that not only will your heater not work, but your engine will wear prematurely from overcooling.
Finally someone who understands! I've told countless people about over cooling and premature engine wear. Most didn't believe me. Too hot isn't good, and too cold isn't good either.
Thank you sir. Do you know which one of those sensors puts the temp reading on the gauge? There’s two on the thermostat housing from the looks of it and I don’t know what’s what.
I know it’s been some time since your comment, but…there should be a smaller sensor, with just one wire coming from it, closer to passenger side - that goes to the dash The bigger one, with two wires, goes to the computer…and I just replaced that one the other day 👍 but now here I am learning how to replace the thermostat xD good luck, hope it helps
I have that pushrod 4.0 in my 94 Mazda B4000. It has 260K miles, passes our mandatory emissions test perfectly and burns no oil. Just replaced the thermostat.. Mainly because the housing was leaking. The gasket is part of the thermostat itself. Sort of an o-ring bonded to it.
Do they ever stick closed? I just picked up a 91 Ranger 4 L drove a couple hundred miles and then the I believe water pump we pull started started leaking and then right after that the radiator started leaking…… I’m thinking too much pressure from the thermostat closed?
I have a 95 Ford explorer eight he same 4.0 engine as your ranger, my temp level has always seem cold, does this mean I need to replace the 20 year old thermostat, or just replace it because it's 20 year olds?? lol thanks again for the video
I put a new thermostat on but had the bleed hole in the down position 😳 I still noticed it was over heating so I turned it to where the bleed hole was on the top and my truck stopped overheating but, for anyone who makes the same mistake
3:09 - Hi Daniel! I know that this is an old video, but what is the actual part called that you call the "coolant line?" I am working on one of these (it has a crack on the metal on the bottom).
I have a 94 Ford Ranger with e 4.0 and its a 5 speed. When i start it after 5 minutes the coolant boils and the radiator cap whistles and it smokes really bad out of the coolant. Possible thermostat issue? Sometimes it doesn't do it at all.
It was a pain in the ass but I was able to loosen the top left bolt with a standard 10mm wrench. Then rotate it out with my fingers very carefully lol.
Hank's Small Engine Repair same here...unfortunately I dropped the bottom bolt and lost it Errrr Hopefully I can find a replacement and get it back on.Good video
Lol how did you get them back on i did the same wiggled it outvwith the tip of my fingers lol im just wondering how to put them. Back in i can imagine its a nightmare
I tried a ratchet and trust me you don’t wanna do that it took me 10 minutes to get it out it got stuck on the alternator bracket and the thermostat housing
First off there's no way this job can be done in 15 minutes if you have A/C like mine, mine has a non moveable pipe that runs in front of the thermostat housing pipe to the compressor making it practically impossible to get to 2 of the hardest bolts no way would you ever get an air wrench on them I noticed he has no A/C line on his making all the difference in the world, just to clean the surface would be difficult now imagine trying to start the bolts with your fingers sorry won't work I'd love to see him do this in 15 minutes with A/C if you have A/C then you know exactly what I'm talking about, possibly the water pump have to come off and I don't even want to think about that so if your a/c line runs in front like mine you're in for trouble and many hours of frustration, first time I've ever thought paying to have a job done!
Hey did you figure out how to get it done i have that ac line in the way also and its a pain to het the screws out j can only imagine putting them.back on any idea helps thanks
one of the few videos out there for a 94 ford ranger, 4.0 L. I have AC and the ford is a 4x4. As most of us will testify...having the right tools for the job makes a difference. Thanks for the video...lots of tips.
I have that one in Mazda dress. Stuffing the 4.0 into the small truck makes for some cramped access. 4x4 makes it worse! I replaced the clutch recently. Nightmare!
I have a '95 "Rice Ranger," I.e. Mazda. I did exactly what you did, but also replaced the fan clutch. The Cologne 4.0 V6 is a shoehorn fit into that small truck chassis, especially if it's 4WD. My pushrod V6 has 260,000 miles on it, and burns no oil and passes Utah's emission inspection easily. It easily rates as one of Ford's best engines.
My 2000 Explorer OHV overheated at 200,000 miles after the heater hose broke(plastic), and made it all the way to 240,000 before it started to burn coolant. I replaced the heads and I’m good to go again. I’ll be doing the short block in the future unless I swap in the 5.0 OHV. The old ford pushrods last forever.
I had a '03 fx4 lvl 2 and when I had to replace my t-stat, it ended up being pretty easy. Much easier than my 5-liter foxbody
Thanks! Very helpful. I'm going to tackle this project next weekend.
My temp on 97 4.0 ohv ranger cools when accelerating off of the stoplight and slowly creeps back up to normal temp. Never overheats. Seems like my issue could be this as well.
It's interesting you mention over cooling. A lot of people don't know that not only will your heater not work, but your engine will wear prematurely from overcooling.
Finally someone who understands! I've told countless people about over cooling and premature engine wear. Most didn't believe me. Too hot isn't good, and too cold isn't good either.
I don’t think cold coolant is going to wear out your engine. It’s not like it’s affecting oil viscosity is it?
@@willowandluka5302 some engines won’t go into overdrive or past 3rd until it’s at running temp so you can blow a trans that way.
What's the name on that drill u used for the 3 screws? Made it look too easy, I'm over here struggling with a wrench
Thank you sir. Do you know which one of those sensors puts the temp reading on the gauge? There’s two on the thermostat housing from the looks of it and I don’t know what’s what.
I know it’s been some time since your comment, but…there should be a smaller sensor, with just one wire coming from it, closer to passenger side - that goes to the dash
The bigger one, with two wires, goes to the computer…and I just replaced that one the other day 👍 but now here I am learning how to replace the thermostat xD good luck, hope it helps
The thermostat is already out you didn't show how you got to it !~
I have that pushrod 4.0 in my 94 Mazda B4000. It has 260K miles, passes our mandatory emissions test perfectly and burns no oil. Just replaced the thermostat.. Mainly because the housing was leaking. The gasket is part of the thermostat itself. Sort of an o-ring bonded to it.
Nice video man
Do they ever stick closed? I just picked up a 91 Ranger 4 L drove a couple hundred miles and then the I believe water pump we pull started started leaking and then right after that the radiator started leaking…… I’m thinking too much pressure from the thermostat closed?
I have a 95 Ford explorer eight he same 4.0 engine as your ranger, my temp level has always seem cold, does this mean I need to replace the 20 year old thermostat, or just replace it because it's 20 year olds?? lol thanks again for the video
I put a new thermostat on but had the bleed hole in the down position 😳 I still noticed it was over heating so I turned it to where the bleed hole was on the top and my truck stopped overheating but, for anyone who makes the same mistake
3:09 - Hi Daniel! I know that this is an old video, but what is the actual part called that you call the "coolant line?" I am working on one of these (it has a crack on the metal on the bottom).
I have a 94 Ford Ranger with e 4.0 and its a 5 speed. When i start it after 5 minutes the coolant boils and the radiator cap whistles and it smokes really bad out of the coolant. Possible thermostat issue? Sometimes it doesn't do it at all.
Yeah, I'm watching but so far I don't see or know where the thermostat is. A wide view showing it's location would help me.
Just cross threaded mine and snapped bolt. Is bolt an M6x1.0?
It was a pain in the ass but I was able to loosen the top left bolt with a standard 10mm wrench. Then rotate it out with my fingers very carefully lol.
Hank's Small Engine Repair Me, too. Jesus help us all! lol
Hank's Small Engine Repair same here...unfortunately I dropped the bottom bolt and lost it Errrr Hopefully I can find a replacement and get it back on.Good video
Lol how did you get them back on i did the same wiggled it outvwith the tip of my fingers lol im just wondering how to put them. Back in i can imagine its a nightmare
So how do you keep it from dumping coolant everywhere while taking out the old thermostat?
you drain radiator about halfway, whatever residual coolant that comes out with thermostat after is an acceptable collateral damage.
Thanks for the info. Doesn't this thermostat require an 0-ring/gasket?
yes, it needs a gasket
I tried a ratchet and trust me you don’t wanna do that it took me 10 minutes to get it out it got stuck on the alternator bracket and the thermostat housing
My truck wasn’t to cut off when I turn on the heat don’t know what it is
very helpfull thank you
on my 93 explorer how in the hell do I get the left bolt back in
twistedtony82 ever figure out the problem? What about the bolt the last bolt?
Wrench
You know if you tighten anymore then 15lbs of pressure it will blow out that gasket
First off there's no way this job can be done in 15 minutes if you have A/C like mine, mine has a non moveable pipe that runs in front of the thermostat housing pipe to the compressor making it practically impossible to get to 2 of the hardest bolts no way would you ever get an air wrench on them I noticed he has no A/C line on his making all the difference in the world, just to clean the surface would be difficult now imagine trying to start the bolts with your fingers sorry won't work I'd love to see him do this in 15 minutes with A/C if you have A/C then you know exactly what I'm talking about, possibly the water pump have to come off and I don't even want to think about that so if your a/c line runs in front like mine you're in for trouble and many hours of frustration, first time I've ever thought paying to have a job done!
Hey did you figure out how to get it done i have that ac line in the way also and its a pain to het the screws out j can only imagine putting them.back on any idea helps thanks
U don’t have the video removing it first? Anyone can put it on after they took it off where’s the start..
He just undid the 3 bolts you see him put back on. Thats it.
Firs!
@Danny Watson it's not my video