Daniel I make springs for a living, many engine valve springs. I am not criticizing what you have shown but I felt it would be nice to make the point for anyone interested. Be careful when completely compressing springs like this solid (coils touching each other) as they can very easily become distorted and or almost certainly made weaker. As a hypothetical example imagine you have a valve spring that is 100mm long. with the first operating position at 80mm, the second operating position at 40mm and the fully compressed length 20mm. Well if this example was compressed beyond the 40mm position you could weaken the spring reducing its length and therefore the loads at both operating positions. If you compress a spring solid harshly it can end up being out of square and parallel basically looks wonky or bent, My point is for anyone reading, compress valve springs by the absolute minimum needed to get the valve stem keepers/collets in and out. Avoid compressing any spring solid or more than necessary. Off the top of my head I have made for cars; Engine valve (road, motorsport, historic), clutch, oil pressure relief, fuel pressure, oil filter non-return, suspension, drum brake, cambelt tensioner, door check strap, sunroof, gearbox mechanism, turbo dump valves,
+TABRAO you may well be right but I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that those springs are getting replaced. Typically that gets done when heads are re-machined (depending on the mechanic's judgment of course). By the sounds of "The whole shebang" like dan said, I doubt he'll tell the customer to re-machine both heads but also tell him that the old springs are fine.
You would loose that bet. Springs are rarely changed out unless it's the entire lot as in an upgrade for racing cam deal. Keepers and valves also reused if at all possible. Typical valve job does not include blueprinting nonsense which would include checking of installed height, spring force testing and/or shims for same. All that can be had for big time extra charge though.
Typically I would agree, but there's been piston to valve contact, so I don't think this is a typical valve job. Do you think he'll reuse the valves on this one? I don't, my guess is that most replaceable components will be replaced on this job. Maybe he keeps the springs, maybe he keeps the valves too, I just don't think it's in the cards.
And he never mentions the 2nd head and especially important how much. Too many glaring omissions for my taste, while taking the time to explain the function of a rocker arm, his demographic doesn't really include me, but I'm pretty sure the typical owner of this model couldn't afford this truck repair. Done solely for video content then is my guess and the delay may have been earning enough moolah with his day job to pay off the machine shop. This one wasn't the slap it together type I was using for reference anyway. In the 70s when I cut my teeth, a valve job would take 3 hours tops in and out and back on the road. $80 no BS. Our shop didn't work like that, but I saw guys doing it like that in the big city sweat shops where that pricing was valid - they were not happy about anything, but they were fast. It just may be that this particularly troublesome head should never be slapped back together like back in the good old days, with new head bolts a requirement that I was not aware of, it's looking like you are more right than I was. Pity, we'll never really know.
I just love it when I come across a Mechanic that knows how to work on Ford Rangers. I work on them all the time, and I would say over 70% have that 3.0 Vulcan engine even though Ford quit making them in 2008. I really think they quit making this engine because a regular mechanic could would on these engines. In 2009, 2010 and 2011 they only put the 4.0 SOHC and the 2.3 DOHC Duratec engines in them because it usually cost so much to fix them that it's not economically feasible to fix them making you scrap it and buy a new vehicle.
most of the 2.3s are work horse that run forever you really have to be a fuck up to damage that engine your trans mission will go out 2 times before the 2.3 will show signs of death i have a 2.3 in my stable of rangers that has well over 480k miles on it and the damn thing still trucking on
Missfire cylinder 3, Ranger 3.0l 120000km, without any another code. Went trough the usual troubleshooting for missfire without success. Then your video was the light at the end of the tunnel!😊 I did the liquid test and it wasn't leaking. Send it anyway to machine shop and the guy told me the seat was burnt. Now waiting for the 2 heads to come back. Thank you so much. You helped me with mechanic and learning English! I wish it's gonna work. If it don't I'll be a proud woman anyways... What an adventure! 😊👍
My 2000 Ford E150 Cargo Van had a misfire when I bought it. The van has the little 4.2L V6. The check engine light was not illuminated but I did pull a code for a misfire on cylinder number 5. I checked compression, plugs, injectors, and coil. Still no luck. I then temporarily disabled the EGR (which did trigger the CEL) and the misfire went away. After removing the intake, I discovered that all but one of the EGR ports were completely blocked. The only one open was cylinder number 5 which was receiving the full dose of recirculated exhaust gasses. After thoroughly cleaning the intake and EGR the misfire was gone. The 4.2L runs great and currently has 180,000 miles on the odometer.
15 years, one owner, my Ranger 3.0L V6 has performed flawlessly without oil loss. Terrific engine. This video is an education, however: nothing goes on forever. A friend of mine visiting a while back had use of my Ranger and was impressed with its power. He drove a Nissan truck and it was weaker. Almost 170 K miles and I can still punch it to get a move on.
The Ford 3.0 in my family has been Ford's best engine. The 3.8 and 5.4 2v have all been complete turds. Tons of money dumped into them to still fail earlier than they should.
I have a 3.0 in my old 93 Aerostar back in the day, could not kill it. I finally gave it away at 380,000 miles when OD went out on the A4LD transmission.
Same exact problem, but intake on #6, good video thanks for the valve check trick. Also you don't need a press to remove the valve keepers you can take a deep socket and a rubber mallet and smack top of the retainer, lift the head up so that your valves don't hit your table. The hit pushes down the spring and the shock causes the retainers to fall off under your socket.
soon as i saw that piston it was really clear you have a bent valve ,, likely this is engine overspeed damage either from improper down shifting ,, and revving the engine ,,or the valve springs have gotten weak and resulted in piston contact at high RPM due to Valve Float ,
Excellent video. Its amazing how many no code conditions can pop up. I bought my 2000 Ford Ranger with 85000 miles and it's engine didn't look like this. I think the previous owner abused it.
Nice video and diagnosis. That "pour liquid into the head" trick was taught to me over twenty years ago. It's a bulletproof way to tell if you have valve leaks.
Taking the Wife to a fine dining evening could be a little awkward, for sure, but, a good mechanic is an exclusive treat. Just stay away from any finger foods, and you're good to go. ;-)
Had this EXACT same issue! Same truck even! 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 with 140k miles on it. I did a tuneup with plugs and wires. Drove it about 5 miles to check it out and then it started spewing antifreeze out through the exhaust. lol. Was going to scrap it but decided I am going to keep it and rip it apart as a learning experience. The truck is already dead to me so might as well learn how to tear into a motor. I have always been kind of a back yard mechanic but never actually ripped into an engine before. Just brakes/rotors/drums/oil change/tune-ups that sort of thing. Can't wait till it's just a LITTLE warmer here in Ohio to start into it!
I just can't work with you gloves. I guess I'm too old school. I need to feel my hands on what I'm doing. Unless I'm working with something toxic I just go onatural.
Another tip: Put the valve on a drill while it's seated with some rubbing compound and spin it. It will create the perfect seat. That's all they will do.
I just went through this on my 1999 Mazda B2500 (basically a Ranger). Mine has the 2.5L Lima 4 cylinder. I was having the same "rough running" idle and down on power. I replaced the head with a rebuilt one. It fixed the problem, but now I am having a weird bucking and surging problem. We replaced a ton of parts while doing the head and I am so frustrated! The weird part is that the truck didn't have this busking and surging problem before....FML
My 2002 Ranger has the same problem. I was thinking either burnt or sticking exhaust valve. If I held a piece of paper behind the exhaust, it would occasionally get sucked in. One time the check engine light actually came on for a cylinder 4 misfire. I tried Motor Medic engine flush and it made a noticeable improvement. I'll try it again next oil change. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll do a compression test and go from there.
When my Durango dropped a valve seat in the 1 cylinder, the only code I got was a misfire, and of course, very violent shaking. I know I could have had the head repaired most likely, but considering the 203,000 miles on the truck (most would say here, "I decided to buy a new vehicle"...) I decided to change out the engine completely for a freshly rebuilt one. I already replaced the transmission 20K miles ago, and that was one o the several things that made me choose to fix the truck instead of buying something else.
Never heard of an improperly bored guide, though I guess anything's possible. What seems more likely is carbon buildup on the back of the valve causing it to hang up in the guide and yanking it downward. This is called dropping a valve or dropping a valve guide. Only 65,000mi, but how many of those miles are sitting just idling? that's enough to cause the carbon buildup aforementioned. Couple that with heat soaking from the limited vehicle movement. That makes it likely the head expanded just enough for the guide to be easily moved. a follow-up video from the machinist would be nice to see what they came up with. I'd really like to see what really happened.
My 2002 Ranger Edge 4x4, 6 cylinder was idling roughly. Driving fine. Code read was Cylinder 1 misfire. My son said take it in for a tune up. Dropped it off, it WAS DRIVING FINE. Mechanic called the next day and said that it had jumped time and wasn't worth working on. I went to pick it up. Totally different truck, rattling, barely made it home. Mechanic said it was like that when he started it. Whaaaat?
I am about to take on this same project on my 2000 Ranger 3.0. I am about to do the final round of compression testing and cylinder leak down testing to make sure I have to pull the heads. Mine made it to 180,000 miles. It shakes worse at idle after running it hard for a while, so I am pretty sure its exhaust valve seat issues. It also has a skip when cranking.
My 1999 3.0 ranger made it to 157k no compression in cylinder 5 my guess is a burnt valve engine don’t smoke or burn oil I highly doubt it’s a bad piston ring as the 3.0 are known for valve issues
Yeap, done a few of these myself. It's actually pretty common... The 3.0 is a pretty stout motor so if I see one acting like this and I know the ignition is good, valves are my go to. You are right on the money about "while you are in there". I had a 3.0 blow a head gasket (another common problem) and took the heads off to fix that. The truck had a very slight miss-like vibration at idle and was a little low on compression on a few cylinders. I cheaped out, didn't have the heads reworked, and I kick myself to this day because of it.
That low of miles would bother me considering its age...its not driven enough to warm up properly, probably doesn't charge the battery completely either...
you're assuming it was only used for very short drives. It could've been driven on rare occasions but for a long time, so it would've warmed up fine and charged the battery. Point is you don't know
Keith Hastings -good observation,a 20 year old truck,with that low a mileage.more than likely has been driven short trips,few and far between and sat around maybe,but many factors at play. Alex's comment is possible also.speculation.like I said many scenarios at play.
Vary good the cranking test was brilliant. Less than 70k is criminal to have valve issues. makes me a little suspicious of a gradually worsening miss at idle in my own 01 Taurus 3.0 with only 85k. Assuming was ignition have done wires and plugs which helped for while but has returned and starting miss at low speeds under load . you can see the similarity in design right down to the Fe ford like intake extending into the valve cover rail. just like the 60deg GM V-6s: 2.8,3.1 & 3.4. both are old school cam in block push-rod designs, vary conventional.Ford and GM both have tons of experience with this kind of design. Should be rock solid reliable. This is ridiculous. I am also no codes. will just live with it till it gets a little worse now it is still some what intermittent, cranks fine.Will if caught in traffic hot day start missing and occasionally die. fire right back.
So unburned oxygen and fuel was dumping right into the exhaust and ECU did not throw any codes🤔🤔 Maybe the lightbulb behind the check engine mark is gone!
Alex's Bikes and Motors All cars. It started with carburetors and then they made EFI behave like a carb. When the throttle is wide open, there is no air velocity through the venturis at startup, so a carb does not flow fuel into the engine.
My first 2 cars had carbs so I can tell you that isn't true and they'll still start at full throttle, but that wasn't what i was asking. He made it seem like the injectors won't spray fuel if the throttle is wide open.
@DanielJaegerFilms Is this test with the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start the same for the 2.9 V6?? to disable the fuel pump / injectors? 1990 Ford Ranger.
I had a 1999 ranger and it was low on power going up steep hills if you stopped and tried pulling out and letting the clutch out it wanted to stall out and go backwards. even reving it way up still did it. it was a 2.5lt 4 banger ran normally on the level. It also had 178k miles on it so i was thinking it was just warn or something or the rear end wasn't geared for the hills in that town. they were very steep. So steep that when i first started driving I stopped and it was raining and you would go to pull out slowly the tires would start spinning and you would start going backwards down the hill.
Is this the same as those crackhead 2.9 engines they used in the Taurus/Sable? Edelbrock has a replacement head for those, because of the prevalence of cracking.
Low on power straight from the factory . Bulletproof as long as you keep dumping money into it . After a while it feels like a bad marriage : you kind of want to put it behind you but then you think about time and money that you invested in it .
Would a leaking exhaust valve (ironically on the right front cylinder) cause the core of the spark plug to burn apart thus bowing it apart ? It also has a rough idle , but clears up and runs good while driving @ normal speed .
I know the 3.0's from the early 2000's had valve seat issues that would cause misfires. My 03 did when I bought it (cranked over just like that one too). Cylinder 6 had the misfire and it had low compression. I ended up replacing both cylinder heads (the other valves weren't far behind). I had codes in mine though kinda weird it misfiring with no Check Engine Light.
I have a v10 6.8 liter f250 . Iv blown 3 spark plugs out of the block and I have a misfire at 1,3,5,7 and 10 . No check engine light . It vibrates horribly. Does anyone now the core of the issue
Why woudthe valves be hitting the psitons on two different cylinders in this engine? A factory low mileage engine and this happening. That's the mystery to me. This maes me thin the psiton tops were supposed to be dished instead, butdid the factory actually screw up lie this/
I love that leaking valve test! Have a 4.0 I need to pull the motor out of, diagnosed by someone else with bad valve guides, al if he’s right I’ll be expecting to use this test with Essen
I have a question for ya hoss. My radiator fan once and a while runs faster than normal draining my horse power. I've changed the fan clutch but no change it's driving me crazy. HELP!!!!!!!!!!
just over revved kissed the valve and bending it, and the bend will not move in the valve guide freely, spin it in a lathe and it will be bent on the spot you shown us, guide was not the problem
Yes I have the same exact problem after I just put a shitload of money into it Fuel pump/ filter brake lines brakes rotors Calipers universal ,Coil, tuneup I can go on .Just my luck
I have a 03 ranger v6 3.0l flex fuel. My rpm gauge stays at 2500 on rhe highway if i tske it over65mph it will slightly move up hardly. Sometime on 3rd to final gear it stays then switches by letting go of the accelerater or on its own.
I had a 2003 Saturn ION that also was clearly misfiring at idle, but had no check engine light. I tested compression, and cylinder #3 was far lower than the other cylinders. Because I didn't care about that car very much, and I had almost 100,000 miles, I just decided to fill the engine with heavy oil and sell the car.
Were those aluminum heads or iron? I have a 01 with the 3.0 Vulcan. My radiator blew up, replaced it thinking it was from prior accident. Then white smoke starting blowing, missing coolant, etc. Ford said 2 cylinders were cracked either head or block side, can't remember. $7000 on a new long block, right after the warranty ended I got oil leaking from the pilot bearing. Ford admitted poor design of the engine so the new 3.0 have iron heads on iron block. If aluminum heads, might want to look into iron heads.
that doesn't look like a low mileage engine. I am thinking someone rolled back the mileage. the rangers from back then were easy to tamper with the mileage. I used to have one i never tampered with it but i had it apart to change some burned out lights and it would of been very easy to do.
Bro .good vidio... I got a problem in my ford ranger ie diesel wl engine ..#1late start #2 can't pickup speed at same time after start... #3 sometimes engine stop on idle speed... We have changed piston rings.. The gap is 16/1000 inch on all cylinders... All 4 injectors r good ... I have also changed the primary pump... Pls can you tell what next could be the problems?
I got a 2005 ranger 3.0 with 122,000 miles. I had the same issue, it started with the driver side on #4 and I let it go too long and both heads went bad, it is a common thing with the 3.0 with low mileage and that had some age on them
How long did you let it go for? Trying to find out how much time I have left on mine. Really dont want to fork out the money for labor but I know it needs done sooner than later.
I used to do maintenance for a fleet of 7 Ford rangers, 5 had the 3.0 v6 and 2 had the 2.3 i4. The two that got the most use were both 3.0 v6s, 450,000 miles and 360,000 miles. Both of them had the exhaust valves on cylinder 1 burn out around 250,000 miles. I wonder what makes this a problem on that specific cylinder. Any body have any clues?
Dude, record EVERYTHING. If you feel it's worth posting, post it. But, I also know what it's like to sit down to edit 3 hours of video, over an 8 hour period of time. Who needs sleep? Oh, great video! I wonder if Ford's engine builder went with a new valve guide material?
I wish I had the workspace you do, could have saved myself about $1000 on my engine replacement thats going on as I type this. $4000 total, considering the cost of a Dodge 4.7 V8 long block from an engine rebuilder, I feel got good deal.
Back Seat Garage pretty good engines after all gaskets have been replaced. every one I've had I redid gaskets, timing sets, etc and going strong. I just read online some the cam will break if too much wear and the softer metal underneath gets shavings in the engine.
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Daniel I make springs for a living, many engine valve springs. I am not criticizing what you have shown but I felt it would be nice to make the point for anyone interested. Be careful when completely compressing springs like this solid (coils touching each other) as they can very easily become distorted and or almost certainly made weaker.
As a hypothetical example imagine you have a valve spring that is 100mm long. with the first operating position at 80mm, the second operating position at 40mm and the fully compressed length 20mm. Well if this example was compressed beyond the 40mm position you could weaken the spring reducing its length and therefore the loads at both operating positions. If you compress a spring solid harshly it can end up being out of square and parallel basically looks wonky or bent,
My point is for anyone reading, compress valve springs by the absolute minimum needed to get the valve stem keepers/collets in and out. Avoid compressing any spring solid or more than necessary. Off the top of my head I have made for cars; Engine valve (road, motorsport, historic), clutch, oil pressure relief, fuel pressure, oil filter non-return, suspension, drum brake, cambelt tensioner, door check strap, sunroof, gearbox mechanism, turbo dump valves,
+TABRAO you may well be right but I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that those springs are getting replaced. Typically that gets done when heads are re-machined (depending on the mechanic's judgment of course). By the sounds of "The whole shebang" like dan said, I doubt he'll tell the customer to re-machine both heads but also tell him that the old springs are fine.
You would loose that bet. Springs are rarely changed out unless it's the entire lot as in an upgrade for racing cam deal. Keepers and valves also reused if at all possible. Typical valve job does not include blueprinting nonsense which would include checking of installed height, spring force testing and/or shims for same. All that can be had for big time extra charge though.
Typically I would agree, but there's been piston to valve contact, so I don't think this is a typical valve job. Do you think he'll reuse the valves on this one? I don't, my guess is that most replaceable components will be replaced on this job. Maybe he keeps the springs, maybe he keeps the valves too, I just don't think it's in the cards.
Weird how he says new everything in the new video. He doesn't specify springs, everything?
And he never mentions the 2nd head and especially important how much. Too many glaring omissions for my taste, while taking the time to explain the function of a rocker arm, his demographic doesn't really include me, but I'm pretty sure the typical owner of this model couldn't afford this truck repair. Done solely for video content then is my guess and the delay may have been earning enough moolah with his day job to pay off the machine shop. This one wasn't the slap it together type I was using for reference anyway. In the 70s when I cut my teeth, a valve job would take 3 hours tops in and out and back on the road. $80 no BS. Our shop didn't work like that, but I saw guys doing it like that in the big city sweat shops where that pricing was valid - they were not happy about anything, but they were fast. It just may be that this particularly troublesome head should never be slapped back together like back in the good old days, with new head bolts a requirement that I was not aware of, it's looking like you are more right than I was. Pity, we'll never really know.
I just love it when I come across a Mechanic that knows how to work on Ford Rangers. I work on them all the time, and I would say over 70% have that 3.0 Vulcan engine even though Ford quit making them in 2008. I really think they quit making this engine because a regular mechanic could would on these engines. In 2009, 2010 and 2011 they only put the 4.0 SOHC and the 2.3 DOHC Duratec engines in them because it usually cost so much to fix them that it's not economically feasible to fix them making you scrap it and buy a new vehicle.
most of the 2.3s are work horse that run forever you really have to be a fuck up to damage that engine your trans mission will go out 2 times before the 2.3 will show signs of death i have a 2.3 in my stable of rangers that has well over 480k miles on it and the damn thing still trucking on
Missfire cylinder 3, Ranger 3.0l 120000km, without any another code. Went trough the usual troubleshooting for missfire without success.
Then your video was the light at the end of the tunnel!😊
I did the liquid test and it wasn't leaking.
Send it anyway to machine shop and the guy told me the seat was burnt.
Now waiting for the 2 heads to come back.
Thank you so much. You helped me with mechanic and learning English!
I wish it's gonna work. If it don't I'll be a proud woman anyways... What an adventure! 😊👍
Yeah! Did the job and it work! Thank yous so much!
Somebody rolled that old school odometer back from 1 to 0. That engine looks rough for only 65k miles.
My 3.0 still has clean cross hatching @ 150K
My 99 ranger 4.0 has 238,502
Mine had cross hatching intact when I did head gaskets at 300,000km
178k pistons look new. Head gasket did not. Back on the road
My 2000 Ford E150 Cargo Van had a misfire when I bought it. The van has the little 4.2L V6. The check engine light was not illuminated but I did pull a code for a misfire on cylinder number 5. I checked compression, plugs, injectors, and coil. Still no luck. I then temporarily disabled the EGR (which did trigger the CEL) and the misfire went away. After removing the intake, I discovered that all but one of the EGR ports were completely blocked. The only one open was cylinder number 5 which was receiving the full dose of recirculated exhaust gasses. After thoroughly cleaning the intake and EGR the misfire was gone. The 4.2L runs great and currently has 180,000 miles on the odometer.
15 years, one owner, my Ranger 3.0L V6 has performed flawlessly without oil loss. Terrific engine. This video is an education, however: nothing goes on forever. A friend of mine visiting a while back had use of my Ranger and was impressed with its power. He drove a Nissan truck and it was weaker. Almost 170 K miles and I can still punch it to get a move on.
You got lucky
0:33 I can tell you how he made that diagnosis... Opened the hood, noticed it had the 3.0 V6.. Yup, low on power
A 3000 v6 is pretty powerful... at least, more powerful than this Ranger if all cyls are working
I had this exact same truck when I was younger, same color, and everything. That 3.0 v6 is a dog.
Benjamin Phillips very true 😂
The Ford 3.0 in my family has been Ford's best engine. The 3.8 and 5.4 2v have all been complete turds. Tons of money dumped into them to still fail earlier than they should.
I have a 3.0 in my old 93 Aerostar back in the day, could not kill it. I finally gave it away at 380,000 miles when OD went out on the A4LD transmission.
Same exact problem, but intake on #6, good video thanks for the valve check trick. Also you don't need a press to remove the valve keepers you can take a deep socket and a rubber mallet and smack top of the retainer, lift the head up so that your valves don't hit your table. The hit pushes down the spring and the shock causes the retainers to fall off under your socket.
soon as i saw that piston it was really clear you have a bent valve ,, likely this is engine overspeed damage
either from improper down shifting ,, and revving the engine ,,or the valve springs have gotten weak and resulted in piston contact at high RPM due to Valve Float ,
Excellent video. Its amazing how many no code conditions can pop up. I bought my 2000 Ford Ranger with 85000 miles and it's engine didn't look like this. I think the previous owner abused it.
Nice video and diagnosis. That "pour liquid into the head" trick was taught to me over twenty years ago. It's a bulletproof way to tell if you have valve leaks.
Yikes, I need to start wearing some gloves while doing this type of work... 😳
No you don't lol
Jaeger, please, sir, recreate the Chrysler lean surging idle on a car you don't mind burning the cat on.
I want to see that again.
If that was you.
Taking the Wife to a fine dining evening could be a little awkward, for sure, but, a good mechanic is an exclusive treat. Just stay away from any finger foods, and you're good to go. ;-)
DanielJaegerFilms, I forget to put on gloves too. Then when my hands are black.... well, you already said it....
So now I better subscribe...
Oh and I rang the bell 🔔
Had this EXACT same issue! Same truck even! 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 with 140k miles on it. I did a tuneup with plugs and wires. Drove it about 5 miles to check it out and then it started spewing antifreeze out through the exhaust. lol. Was going to scrap it but decided I am going to keep it and rip it apart as a learning experience. The truck is already dead to me so might as well learn how to tear into a motor. I have always been kind of a back yard mechanic but never actually ripped into an engine before. Just brakes/rotors/drums/oil change/tune-ups that sort of thing. Can't wait till it's just a LITTLE warmer here in Ohio to start into it!
Well, did you tear into it?
How'd it go
had the same problem on my 4.0, after $1600 it was a crankshaft sensor, $30.
I just can't work with you gloves. I guess I'm too old school. I need to feel my hands on what I'm doing. Unless I'm working with something toxic I just go onatural.
Yeah, like wearing a condom
He wasint wearing gloves ?
it is so awesome to watch your videos, even if I don't own the cars you work on!! Keep it up
so why would the engine drive ok at high rpm?
I have a ranger with very simliar problem would a clogged injector do something very similar except affected cylenders are 4 and 6
Another tip:
Put the valve on a drill while it's seated with some rubbing compound and spin it. It will create the perfect seat. That's all they will do.
The valve is bent isn't it? its been over revved. piston has bent it.
I just went through this on my 1999 Mazda B2500 (basically a Ranger). Mine has the 2.5L Lima 4 cylinder. I was having the same "rough running" idle and down on power. I replaced the head with a rebuilt one. It fixed the problem, but now I am having a weird bucking and surging problem. We replaced a ton of parts while doing the head and I am so frustrated! The weird part is that the truck didn't have this busking and surging problem before....FML
My 2002 Ranger has the same problem. I was thinking either burnt or sticking exhaust valve. If I held a piece of paper behind the exhaust, it would occasionally get sucked in. One time the check engine light actually came on for a cylinder 4 misfire. I tried Motor Medic engine flush and it made a noticeable improvement. I'll try it again next oil change. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll do a compression test and go from there.
When my Durango dropped a valve seat in the 1 cylinder, the only code I got was a misfire, and of course, very violent shaking. I know I could have had the head repaired most likely, but considering the 203,000 miles on the truck (most would say here, "I decided to buy a new vehicle"...) I decided to change out the engine completely for a freshly rebuilt one. I already replaced the transmission 20K miles ago, and that was one o the several things that made me choose to fix the truck instead of buying something else.
Never heard of an improperly bored guide, though I guess anything's possible. What seems more likely is carbon buildup on the back of the valve causing it to hang up in the guide and yanking it downward. This is called dropping a valve or dropping a valve guide.
Only 65,000mi, but how many of those miles are sitting just idling? that's enough to cause the carbon buildup aforementioned. Couple that with heat soaking from the limited vehicle movement. That makes it likely the head expanded just enough for the guide to be easily moved.
a follow-up video from the machinist would be nice to see what they came up with. I'd really like to see what really happened.
If you pulled the piston out you would find the top ring slightly jammed in the ring groove also.
My 2002 Ranger Edge 4x4, 6 cylinder was idling roughly. Driving fine. Code read was
Cylinder 1 misfire. My son said take it in for a tune up.
Dropped it off, it WAS DRIVING FINE.
Mechanic called the next day and said that it had jumped time and wasn't worth working on. I went to pick it up. Totally different truck, rattling, barely made it home. Mechanic said it was like that when he started it.
Whaaaat?
I am about to take on this same project on my 2000 Ranger 3.0. I am about to do the final round of compression testing and cylinder leak down testing to make sure I have to pull the heads. Mine made it to 180,000 miles. It shakes worse at idle after running it hard for a while, so I am pretty sure its exhaust valve seat issues. It also has a skip when cranking.
My 1999 3.0 ranger made it to 157k no compression in cylinder 5 my guess is a burnt valve engine don’t smoke or burn oil I highly doubt it’s a bad piston ring as the 3.0 are known for valve issues
Thanks. Learned of a new way to diagnose a dead cylinder.
Yeap, done a few of these myself. It's actually pretty common... The 3.0 is a pretty stout motor so if I see one acting like this and I know the ignition is good, valves are my go to. You are right on the money about "while you are in there". I had a 3.0 blow a head gasket (another common problem) and took the heads off to fix that. The truck had a very slight miss-like vibration at idle and was a little low on compression on a few cylinders. I cheaped out, didn't have the heads reworked, and I kick myself to this day because of it.
That low of miles would bother me considering its age...its not driven enough to warm up properly, probably doesn't charge the battery completely either...
you're assuming it was only used for very short drives. It could've been driven on rare occasions but for a long time, so it would've warmed up fine and charged the battery. Point is you don't know
Alex's Bikes and Motors shut up smart arse
Keith Hastings -good observation,a 20 year old truck,with that low a mileage.more than likely has been driven short trips,few and far between and sat around maybe,but many factors at play. Alex's comment is possible also.speculation.like I said many scenarios at play.
The valve was bent ...the shiney part was were it was in contact with the seat... it was leaking where it wasn't shining.......@7:49
zeke112964 yeah you can see as he twists it out that the face is bent
I had the same problem with my 95 explorer back when I was 17 two new heads and it was back on the road good vid man
jumped timing , causing valve to contact piston & bend/deform.?or weak valve spring / valve floatcausingpiston contact?
Been a subscriber for 8 years now, keep up the great videos!
Vary good the cranking test was brilliant. Less than 70k is criminal to have valve issues. makes me a little suspicious of a gradually worsening miss at idle in my own 01 Taurus 3.0 with only 85k. Assuming was ignition have done wires and plugs which helped for while but has returned and starting miss at low speeds under load . you can see the similarity in design right down to the Fe ford like intake extending into the valve cover rail. just like the 60deg GM V-6s: 2.8,3.1 & 3.4. both are old school cam in block push-rod designs, vary conventional.Ford and GM both have tons of experience with this kind of design. Should be rock solid reliable. This is ridiculous. I am also no codes. will just live with it till it gets a little worse now it is still some what intermittent, cranks fine.Will if caught in traffic hot day start missing and occasionally die. fire right back.
Check misfire counters, it would show right up. 4.0s like to crack their heads.
Thank you for this info. This is huge information that DYI needs to know.
So unburned oxygen and fuel was dumping right into the exhaust and ECU did not throw any codes🤔🤔
Maybe the lightbulb behind the check engine mark is gone!
@ Thank you for the explanation. That's interesting.
So an engine won't fire the injectors if the gas pedal is floored? Is this just fords or do all cars work like that? Never heard of this before
Alex's Bikes and Motors All cars. It started with carburetors and then they made EFI behave like a carb. When the throttle is wide open, there is no air velocity through the venturis at startup, so a carb does not flow fuel into the engine.
My first 2 cars had carbs so I can tell you that isn't true and they'll still start at full throttle, but that wasn't what i was asking. He made it seem like the injectors won't spray fuel if the throttle is wide open.
The computer cuts fuel at WOT during crank.
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Ya, i've started Carbs this way as well. I think this is more computer controlled vehicles than anything else.
Alex's Bikes and Motors for flood clearing
Doubt you'll see this but by any chance did the truck run better in really cold temperature like 25 and below and run really bad at 50 and above.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful with my 3.0 I appreciate your intelligence. God bless be safe.♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Three seconds. That's how long it took me to subscribe to your channel. Very informative.
Thanks, Daniel.
@DanielJaegerFilms Is this test with the gas pedal to the floor while trying to start the same for the 2.9 V6?? to disable the fuel pump / injectors? 1990 Ford Ranger.
i wander if the timing chain is stretch out and the valves are closing to late and that's why you see those marks on the cylinder
I had a 1999 ranger and it was low on power going up steep hills if you stopped and tried pulling out and letting the clutch out it wanted to stall out and go backwards. even reving it way up still did it. it was a 2.5lt 4 banger ran normally on the level. It also had 178k miles on it so i was thinking it was just warn or something or the rear end wasn't geared for the hills in that town. they were very steep. So steep that when i first started driving I stopped and it was raining and you would go to pull out slowly the tires would start spinning and you would start going backwards down the hill.
Really should do both heads false economy to only do one, the other could have a similar problem before too long!
Is this the same as those crackhead 2.9 engines they used in the Taurus/Sable? Edelbrock has a replacement head for those, because of the prevalence of cracking.
where do you get that container for the brake clean and buy it in bulk to fill it?
fuzzy wuzzy it's called a sure shot sprayer. They are about $50. The knockoffs are made in China and are not nearly as nice.
Low on power straight from the factory . Bulletproof as long as you keep dumping money into it . After a while it feels like a bad marriage : you kind of want to put it behind you but then you think about time and money that you invested in it .
you sound salty AF !
Would a leaking exhaust valve (ironically on the right front cylinder) cause the core of the spark plug to burn apart thus bowing it apart ? It also has a rough idle , but clears up and runs good while driving @ normal speed .
I know the 3.0's from the early 2000's had valve seat issues that would cause misfires. My 03 did when I bought it (cranked over just like that one too). Cylinder 6 had the misfire and it had low compression. I ended up replacing both cylinder heads (the other valves weren't far behind). I had codes in mine though kinda weird it misfiring with no Check Engine Light.
My 04 just started having a misfire on cylinder 4. Hoping it's not this issue but it likely is.
I have misfire on cylinder 6.On my 03 ford ranger 3.0L..Replaces coil..spark plugs Maf censor and is still misfiring!
This was a TSB from Ford for the valve seats not being hardened from the factory.
Nice work, Daniel 👌
You could have just blown smoke in the exhaust /intake with cylinders on TDC.
Same results.
Nice yeah I thought close to the same thing hopefully all goes well and this gets fixed
I have a v10 6.8 liter f250 . Iv blown 3 spark plugs out of the block and I have a misfire at 1,3,5,7 and 10 . No check engine light . It vibrates horribly. Does anyone now the core of the issue
Put a rag in the combustion chamber before you
Compress the spring.
That will hold the valve up and NOT have to coil bind the spring.
Why woudthe valves be hitting the psitons on two different cylinders in this engine? A factory low mileage engine and this happening. That's the mystery to me. This maes me thin the psiton tops were supposed to be dished instead, butdid the factory actually screw up lie this/
I love that leaking valve test! Have a 4.0 I need to pull the motor out of, diagnosed by someone else with bad valve guides, al if he’s right I’ll be expecting to use this test with Essen
Ease ** lol
I have a question for ya hoss. My radiator fan once and a while runs faster than normal draining my horse power. I've changed the fan clutch but no change it's driving me crazy. HELP!!!!!!!!!!
Could you do this on a 94 4cyl? The whole holding the foot to the floor thing?
You can do it on any fuel injected engine
Lol the pups at 2:39 were pretty funny with your sound effects!
The valve looks bent when turning it @ 7:24 . Can you check it or compare it to a new one when doing a follow-up?
I have a 99 Mazda that is running rough and acts like it's not getting enough gas. It's a 4 cylinder with 8 plugs. No check engine light.
just over revved kissed the valve and bending it, and the bend will not move in the valve guide freely, spin it in a lathe and it will be bent on the spot you shown us, guide was not the problem
Would I be able to see that by measuring valve lash
@DanielJaegerFilms What's your opinion mechanically of the Chevy Express vans
Yes I have the same exact problem after I just put a shitload of money into it Fuel pump/ filter brake lines brakes rotors Calipers universal ,Coil, tuneup I can go on .Just my luck
Are the heads aluminum ? Ehat are the factory guides made from ?
God bless
Wyr
I have a 03 ranger v6 3.0l flex fuel. My rpm gauge stays at 2500 on rhe highway if i tske it over65mph it will slightly move up hardly. Sometime on 3rd to final gear it stays then switches by letting go of the accelerater or on its own.
It’s super easy to refurbish a cylinder head at home if you possess the skills no need for a machine shop unless the head needs to be decked!
Mechanics always have friends
Just a valve lapping and its guide change, wouldn't do it?
Daniel, what is the object you're holding at 3:04?
I had a 2003 Saturn ION that also was clearly misfiring at idle, but had no check engine light. I tested compression, and cylinder #3 was far lower than the other cylinders. Because I didn't care about that car very much, and I had almost 100,000 miles, I just decided to fill the engine with heavy oil and sell the car.
in the old days when we had no money , we would just put in 1 valve and call it good..
😂😂😂Way to go!!!
Were those aluminum heads or iron? I have a 01 with the 3.0 Vulcan. My radiator blew up, replaced it thinking it was from prior accident. Then white smoke starting blowing, missing coolant, etc.
Ford said 2 cylinders were cracked either head or block side, can't remember. $7000 on a new long block, right after the warranty ended I got oil leaking from the pilot bearing.
Ford admitted poor design of the engine so the new 3.0 have iron heads on iron block. If aluminum heads, might want to look into iron heads.
Snap-On Auto Tech these are cast iron heads on the 3.0 Vulcan
that doesn't look like a low mileage engine. I am thinking someone rolled back the mileage. the rangers from back then were easy to tamper with the mileage. I used to have one i never tampered with it but i had it apart to change some burned out lights and it would of been very easy to do.
Why was the valve hitting the piston? Timing chain loose?
3.0 misfiring? 5.0 swap it
It's just an opinion, but these engines were not dependable. I replaced one with a broken crank. It also was a low mileage engine.
Bro .good vidio...
I got a problem in my ford ranger ie diesel wl engine ..#1late start
#2 can't pickup speed at same time after start...
#3 sometimes engine stop on idle speed...
We have changed piston rings..
The gap is 16/1000 inch on all cylinders...
All 4 injectors r good ...
I have also changed the primary pump...
Pls can you tell what next could be the problems?
About how much does it cost to send the heads off to get them redone if you don't mind me asking
I've done it personally and payed 100$ per head.
Heard the word " hardcore " and never stopped laughing.
I got a 2005 ranger 3.0 with 122,000 miles. I had the same issue, it started with the driver side on #4 and I let it go too long and both heads went bad, it is a common thing with the 3.0 with low mileage and that had some age on them
How long did you let it go for? Trying to find out how much time I have left on mine. Really dont want to fork out the money for labor but I know it needs done sooner than later.
Was "valve touching the piston" the result or the cause?
Milo these aren't interference engines
Was it appropriate or inappropriate touching ?🤣
I used to do maintenance for a fleet of 7 Ford rangers, 5 had the 3.0 v6 and 2 had the 2.3 i4. The two that got the most use were both 3.0 v6s, 450,000 miles and 360,000 miles. Both of them had the exhaust valves on cylinder 1 burn out around 250,000 miles. I wonder what makes this a problem on that specific cylinder. Any body have any clues?
It's a long shot that you even still have this account, but could I ask you about something I'm stuck on with my 2.3 ranger?
Dude, record EVERYTHING. If you feel it's worth posting, post it. But, I also know what it's like to sit down to edit 3 hours of video, over an 8 hour period of time. Who needs sleep? Oh, great video! I wonder if Ford's engine builder went with a new valve guide material?
I would've guessed worn or broken motor mounts were making the truck shake.
worn engine mounts would make a different type of vibration
I wish I had the workspace you do, could have saved myself about $1000 on my engine replacement thats going on as I type this. $4000 total, considering the cost of a Dodge 4.7 V8 long block from an engine rebuilder, I feel got good deal.
Great video, just watched them both!
Excellent video. Well done.
Where can I get head gasket kit 1999 ford ranger 3.0 xlt and new head bolts
The GM 3.1 , 3.4, & 3.8 are some of the best engines ever. And kinda easy to work on
Back Seat Garage by far. some of the longest lasting ones at that too. I have a 3.8 at 114,000 and it runs like it's brand new and still pulls hard
When the head and intake gaskets are done and coolant is flushed and changed to green.Then yes they are a 300K engine.
Back Seat Garage Now GM engines are some of the worst engines on the road.....Just terrible!
Back Seat Garage pretty good engines after all gaskets have been replaced. every one I've had I redid gaskets, timing sets, etc and going strong. I just read online some the cam will break if too much wear and the softer metal underneath gets shavings in the engine.
sneakysnakepie1 I Agree.. actually my first time hearing about the Cam thing. I purchased all of my Buicks used and replaced the gaskets right away.
How did you tell if the piston rings were still good?
My 3.8 mustang is doing the exact thing you described
Do you still have the 07 F150 that you put the motor in last year?
I am about to take my 2004 Ford Ranger into the shop to get its heads exchange for this exact reason.
Where's part 2?